I really like this video! The tire size/tread pattern is an interesting question, and I like that your friend let you swap tires/wheels with him. As someone who has both an open differential FJ40, and a Tacoma with an electric rear locker, I would strongly suggest getting a locker. I don't know if full time lockers, like the lunch box style, are the best, as a locked axle can actually be dangerous in slippery conditions. Being able to lock the rear axle on my Tacoma has been wonderful, especially as it's a way to get out of sticky situations. I've stopped on sandy hills a few times, tried to stop (with no luck) while just using 4 low, then locked the differential. Up I went! I may actually use a lunch box locker for my FJ40, because the cost is significantly lower than a selectable locker. Air lockers can have issues with the compressor, or the lines getting compromised, which is a concern as well. Having slipped sideways on an icy road that had a sheer drop-off on the side makes me think I'll limit the use in snow. One suggestion I have on your videos, is to use a fade function between scenes. Abrupt transitions are a bit jarring, both with video and music. I do like how you use multiple shots, and really get the action, so thanks for what you do!
@@4x2WagonFamily I'm someone that 1) goes wheeling almost exclusively on snow and 2) Loves my front air locker (I also have a factory rear limited slip, but don't love it as much as a locker). That said, the locker is usually only a small help in snow. A locker helps the most on uneven terrain. If one wheel is off the ground, a locker is a huge help. If all the wheels have about the same weight on them (and are on the same type of surface), then a locker doesn't do a lot (but can help a little). Snow, especially deep snow, tends to flatten out the bumps. With this flatter surface, a locker makes less difference than on uneven terrain. But, spring snow like in this video, is probably an exception. It is more uneven than midwinter snow, and you end up in situations like at 3:41 where not only is the vehicle articulated, but the tires are on different surfaces with different amounts of traction. Here one or two lockers can make a big difference. Perhaps contrary to what you might think, I would say lockers are for people that "like" to get stuck. That is, they are really only useful to keep pushing on past where you are likely to get stuck. If you hate getting stuck, and turn around before things get really bad, you won't use a locker (it probably won't get you unstuck on that one occasion where you misjudge and do get stuck). If you are someone that likes to push as far as possible, then the locker will get you a bit further -- which equals more fun. But, if that's how you wheel, you are going to go until you are stuck, locker or no locker.
I was just going to suggest that but you already did. Just like Sand Snow is best done with less pressure on those tires to give you the most maximum amount of ground patch
TheBTG88 I feel this is dependent on the snow type, where you are driving and how fast you are going. Wider tires can provide a wider footprint to help in deep snow which gives your vehicle more floatation. However skinny tires allow you to penetrate to the hard surface before and that’s where you are getting the better traction with skinny tires. Wide tires can be dangerous as under braking can lock up easily and work as a sled on top of the snow.
Narrow tires are better in snow when the snow is not too deep. If your tires can reach dirt or pavement before you get high centered, then narrow tires are usually better. But, if the snow is too deep for the tires to reach the ground, then wider tires (at very low pressure) can help you drive over the snow. Here I am with around 4 feet of now under my rig: photos.app.goo.gl/caVQJtwqoJFyjp1t5
I noticed that your 33 inch tires are on very narrow wheels. I have 33 inch tires on a wider rim size 15 inch wheels and they have a way wider contact patch then what your running. I will go 35 since that is what it had before but I am thinking it has to do with the width not the tallness.
Hi Brian, I don’t know much about diff locks, I like to see where your truck can go with open diffs, which is what I have. I wonder if tire chains would be good alternative to getting bigger tires
Definitely not tire chains. Chains are good on hard pavement or with few inches of snow under 12”, but we’re wheeling on >5’ snow. With chains, You’ll dig yourself into a hole like a ground squirrel. We did this test some time ago, but I think I’ll post that on UA-cam...
@@4x2WagonFamily I almost agree with you here. Under many, maybe most, deep snow conditions, tire chains will not be helpful. They do dig FAST, and will leave you stuck in a hole. But, under some conditions, where wheel spin polishes the snow up really well into slippery ice, chains (combined with very low tire pressures) can get you through where nothing else (short of tracks) will. Don't get me wrong, if you drive far under these conditions (with chains), you will dig yourself into a hole now and again and be stuck good. How often depends on your experience level. Whether you want to use chains or turn around depends on whether you consider getting stuck to be part of the fun. A word about experience. Under many deep snow conditions, going slow gets you further than giving it more power. If an inexperienced driver feels the vehicle start to bog and sink in the snow, they will often give it more power. This is almost always the wrong thing to do. Backing off on the power is much more likely to be the right answer. This reduces the amount the tires are digging, and gives the vehicle a chance to climb back up on the snow. If slowing means you have to stop completely that's OK. If you come to a stop with NO power applied, the rig will usually not be stuck and you can back up. If you have the power on until the rig stops, then your tires will probably have dug them selves holes and you are less likely to be able to back up. What's this have to do with tire chains you may wonder? Well, if you master the art of lifting your foot off the accelerator pedal just before the rig comes to a stop, you will get stuck much less if you use tire chains.
@@mwil8209 he definitely has the power, but it’s geared so low it’s not practical to drive on hwy. top Speed 45. Mine on the other hand has stock gears and I can drive 70mph.
I do rc crawling and find these videos as tutorial on my driving 1/6 scale size. Thanks for the info im ready for snow now.
lockers are the way to go. lockers provide traction to all 4 tires and where bigger tire just space axle up higher for clearance
bigger tires give you a longer footprint which equals more traction.
I really like this video! The tire size/tread pattern is an interesting question, and I like that your friend let you swap tires/wheels with him.
As someone who has both an open differential FJ40, and a Tacoma with an electric rear locker, I would strongly suggest getting a locker. I don't know if full time lockers, like the lunch box style, are the best, as a locked axle can actually be dangerous in slippery conditions. Being able to lock the rear axle on my Tacoma has been wonderful, especially as it's a way to get out of sticky situations. I've stopped on sandy hills a few times, tried to stop (with no luck) while just using 4 low, then locked the differential. Up I went!
I may actually use a lunch box locker for my FJ40, because the cost is significantly lower than a selectable locker. Air lockers can have issues with the compressor, or the lines getting compromised, which is a concern as well. Having slipped sideways on an icy road that had a sheer drop-off on the side makes me think I'll limit the use in snow.
One suggestion I have on your videos, is to use a fade function between scenes. Abrupt transitions are a bit jarring, both with video and music. I do like how you use multiple shots, and really get the action, so thanks for what you do!
4psi with beadlocks works great cool video!
I think you should stick with what you have, but that was a great experiment. I read when you go over 33s it hard on everything else, axles etc.
Thanks tomatsu, you think I shouldn’t get selectable lockers?
@@4x2WagonFamily I'm someone that 1) goes wheeling almost exclusively on snow and 2) Loves my front air locker (I also have a factory rear limited slip, but don't love it as much as a locker). That said, the locker is usually only a small help in snow. A locker helps the most on uneven terrain. If one wheel is off the ground, a locker is a huge help. If all the wheels have about the same weight on them (and are on the same type of surface), then a locker doesn't do a lot (but can help a little).
Snow, especially deep snow, tends to flatten out the bumps. With this flatter surface, a locker makes less difference than on uneven terrain.
But, spring snow like in this video, is probably an exception. It is more uneven than midwinter snow, and you end up in situations like at 3:41 where not only is the vehicle articulated, but the tires are on different surfaces with different amounts of traction. Here one or two lockers can make a big difference.
Perhaps contrary to what you might think, I would say lockers are for people that "like" to get stuck. That is, they are really only useful to keep pushing on past where you are likely to get stuck. If you hate getting stuck, and turn around before things get really bad, you won't use a locker (it probably won't get you unstuck on that one occasion where you misjudge and do get stuck). If you are someone that likes to push as far as possible, then the locker will get you a bit further -- which equals more fun. But, if that's how you wheel, you are going to go until you are stuck, locker or no locker.
damn, beautiful fj. I’d say just go with rear locker at first, I know a lot of guys that just run the rear and it works wonders.
Need to drop tire pressure down to 6-7 psi. I run mine at 6psi this last weekend pushing 3’ of snow with my FJ cruiser.
I was just going to suggest that but you already did. Just like Sand Snow is best done with less pressure on those tires to give you the most maximum amount of ground patch
Narrow tires better in the snow. I know - we have long winters in upstate NY.
TheBTG88 I feel this is dependent on the snow type, where you are driving and how fast you are going. Wider tires can provide a wider footprint to help in deep snow which gives your vehicle more floatation. However skinny tires allow you to penetrate to the hard surface before and that’s where you are getting the better traction with skinny tires. Wide tires can be dangerous as under braking can lock up easily and work as a sled on top of the snow.
Narrow tires are better in snow when the snow is not too deep. If your tires can reach dirt or pavement before you get high centered, then narrow tires are usually better. But, if the snow is too deep for the tires to reach the ground, then wider tires (at very low pressure) can help you drive over the snow. Here I am with around 4 feet of now under my rig:
photos.app.goo.gl/caVQJtwqoJFyjp1t5
🇦🇺👍🏾 but don’t forget you didn’t have mud tyres on your stock tyres were road u didn’t have the grip
Great videos!!
I noticed that your 33 inch tires are on very narrow wheels. I have 33 inch tires on a wider rim size 15 inch wheels and they have a way wider contact patch then what your running. I will go 35 since that is what it had before but I am thinking it has to do with the width not the tallness.
Brain bhai how was the ride of this jeep.... i am intrested to buy... is it comfertable on long trips in stock form
Yes
Hi Brian, I don’t know much about diff locks, I like to see where your truck can go with open diffs, which is what I have. I wonder if tire chains would be good alternative to getting bigger tires
Definitely not tire chains. Chains are good on hard pavement or with few inches of snow under 12”, but we’re wheeling on >5’ snow.
With chains, You’ll dig yourself into a hole like a ground squirrel.
We did this test some time ago, but I think I’ll post that on UA-cam...
@@4x2WagonFamily I almost agree with you here. Under many, maybe most, deep snow conditions, tire chains will not be helpful. They do dig FAST, and will leave you stuck in a hole.
But, under some conditions, where wheel spin polishes the snow up really well into slippery ice, chains (combined with very low tire pressures) can get you through where nothing else (short of tracks) will. Don't get me wrong, if you drive far under these conditions (with chains), you will dig yourself into a hole now and again and be stuck good. How often depends on your experience level. Whether you want to use chains or turn around depends on whether you consider getting stuck to be part of the fun.
A word about experience. Under many deep snow conditions, going slow gets you further than giving it more power. If an inexperienced driver feels the vehicle start to bog and sink in the snow, they will often give it more power. This is almost always the wrong thing to do. Backing off on the power is much more likely to be the right answer. This reduces the amount the tires are digging, and gives the vehicle a chance to climb back up on the snow. If slowing means you have to stop completely that's OK. If you come to a stop with NO power applied, the rig will usually not be stuck and you can back up. If you have the power on until the rig stops, then your tires will probably have dug them selves holes and you are less likely to be able to back up.
What's this have to do with tire chains you may wonder? Well, if you master the art of lifting your foot off the accelerator pedal just before the rig comes to a stop, you will get stuck much less if you use tire chains.
Do you have lockers in your FJ 40? If so which ones do you run?
No, but my friend as the arb. I would recommend an elocker over the air... harrop elocker.
What kind of suspension is needed to be able to run 35x12.5x15 tires without rubbing?
I’d recommend 4”
Hi Brian what suspension are u running on ur cruiser?
Ome. 3” lift
@brian how does the 35s feel on stock gears? Thanks bro
No problem.
stick with the 33s they look heaps better
What is the drivetrain in the green land cruiser? Axle gearing?
4:1 tcase and 410 axle
Fj60 Wagon Family does it have a 2f ?
Yes it does.
How does he like it on the road? Does it have enough power with 35s ?
Currently building an fj40
@@mwil8209 he definitely has the power, but it’s geared so low it’s not practical to drive on hwy. top Speed 45. Mine on the other hand has stock gears and I can drive 70mph.
Is your engine a 2f gasoline?
Yes
@@4x2WagonFamily wow!! It's really silent
Brian, how much of a lift do you have
2”
What year is that green fj40
74
If you're going to drive in the snow, get a set of chains. You won't regret it.
Thats how you get stuck real fast. in that kind of snow you will just bury yourself.
@@TheJoshSay sure thing bud.