Also, Check the book out - this is where i started!!! Great tech & walk throughs - amzn.to/2FZGDDY also, what is the most annoying build piece to the small block ford? let me know in the comments!!!
"Don't mess this up" and then he installs a common seal with a hammer. God, we love this guy. Have a few drinks and tune into this channel. Keep it up, we need more of this in the shop !
Sweet dude. Love the Galaxy. I have a '65 2door Fairlane 500. Love your videos. Helping me alot. My grampa thanks you from the grave. He bought it in 65 for m uncle to drive to school
I have to redo the seal, it has leaked since the day I installed it. I even left the cover a little loose when I installed the bal. I'm going to wait until I buy a cvf racing pulley set.
Timely. Last motor I built tore the front main and threw oil everywhere. I’ve got to get it torn down and changed. Interesting that it goes in from the front. I feel like I’ve always installed them from the rear.
@@ThunderHead289 I have a 66...if I change to newer style timing cover will there be any other differences that will mess me up or should I just stay with the old style and take off the timing cover whenever I change the seal? Could I dig out the old seal from the front without taking off timing cover and then still use the new style seal? Probably not...
Thanks for the video. I just did the timing chain on my 66 Fairlane with a 289. She wasnt starting and had spark and timing was correct so i figured broken teeth on the cam gear. Put her back together and she still wont start. Set TDC with valve cover off and borescope in number 1 cylinder. Out of ideas on this one. She just quit starting one day for no reason. Any suggestions?
Hey friend, I oftentimes miss youtube comments. I run a Facebook page called “Thunderhead289 carb & engine: tech/tune forum” where I answer a lot of stuff like this. Does she have power to the coil? (Its likely I won’t see your response, so I encourage you to visit the Facebook page for my help!!!)
I bought a new tc cover, and got the same seal in this video. For the life of me, I cannot get it go in straight. I'm using a 2 inch socket which looks about the same diameter as what you use in this video. Any suggestions?
Red spray-on High Tack (not sure if that's the spelling that Permatex actually uses) should work well. We use it all the time at work. Clean your surfaces, spray on both sides of the gaskets and on the mating surfaces, being careful not to get any on your rubber seals, let it tack up a bit and assemble. The high tack will hold the gaskets in place and make assembly easier. If you use rtv silicone, use just a skim of it across the gasket. Using too much silicone can actually push the gasket out of place. That's a lesson I learned the hard way.
Is it possible to replace the crankshaft seal from the front on a 1970 ford f100 302 engine? Or do I have to take the timing chain cover off and install from the inside? Thank you.
I was just looking at a timing cover from that era…..doesn’t look like you can unless you have some skills at fabricating a retainer over the new seal. I was thinking about removing the metal material on the TC around where the seal goes in. Insert new seal and ( fabricate ). a retainer that’s held on by the TC bolts on the left and right side. It looks like something that’ll work.
Hey. I really enjoy all your videos. I too have and read the How To book u recommend on small block Fords. I am working on a 1973 302/5.0L. Project has a fairly new one piece Felpro pan gasket set. They don’t recommend any type of gasket sealer. I am redoing timing chain and water pump and want your opinion. Apply sealer at corners under tc cover as if it were cork gasket or no sealer? Thx in advance.
@ThunderHead289 it seems like all of the new timing covers for the 460 has larger 2 bolt holes where the oil pan hooks up. Do you have a fix for this, a helicoil perhaps or maybe a link to a single piece oil pan gasket that has a the 5/16 bolt holes? I've tried drilling out my single piece gasket but it caused leaks. Thanks!
The two larger holes are for a couple studs that are supposed to be packaged with the timing cover, or at least they were with mine. Also came with a couple lock nuts for the studs. I literally just did this 7.5l v8 yesterday. Had all kinds of hell finding the correct water pump for it because mine has the heavy duty cooling equipped model in a 93' F-350 2wd daully manual transmission.
I was putting together my roller 302 timing cover this morning (converting it for an old car). I have the seal your holding but it doesn't fit my 1974 cover. I saw your other video about these converisons and I noticed the link you had for the cover was 68-73. Will I need to get that cover or can I just get a seal for my 74 cover? BTW thanks for all the videos. You have been a lot of help
@@ThunderHead289 Thanks for the quick reply. Yes. I have that one. Just got back with it. Looks a little tough to get in but I'll give it a whirl. Thanks for all your help
Hey bud. Thanks for the vid. Got any suggestions on replacing this exact seal on my fox body but without removing the timing cover from the car? I just redid all this 12 months ago and the dang seal has started leaking again. I have a great seal on the timing cover elsewhere and hate to pull it apart again. And yes, it's the seal for sure. Thanks! oh, gotta link to the large seal install tool? I'm headed over to the other vid to see if its there..
I have a 2005 jeep grand Cherokee 4.7 V8 and I have been finding this yellowish white like paste when I take my oil filler cap off, this can't be a good thing. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
You are probably just fine seeing as how it’s currently winter. Basically when it’s cold, moister is drawn into the crankcase when the engine cools down or warms up. Think of condensation that forms on a drink. If you are only doing short drives and not allowing your engine to reach temp for long enough to vaporize the moisture out of the crankcase, you will see it on the uppermost parts of the engine. This is assuming your coolant isn’t disappearing from your coolant res - the. That’s a different issue
@@ThunderHead289 thank you very much for your help. Not losing any fluids and the vehicle doesn't smoke at all. Has been pretty cold here in Wisconsin lately. Love your videos, and again thank you.
I just adjusted my rockers in my 454 last night, all sorts of puddles of water, rockers and all were coated with condensation, surface rust on everything! I don’t build this stuff to sit around! Can anything be done about this?
WTFO? This guy never puts links as he promises, and then he thinks it's funny when we ask! "Link for that seal driver?" Another vid, ThunderH promised a link for the water pump installed. but never delivered.
The dude specifically he said he cobbled the seal driver together from things in his shop. The question itself in the comments was literally a joke. Calm down.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Also, Check the book out - this is where i started!!! Great tech & walk throughs - amzn.to/2FZGDDY
also, what is the most annoying build piece to the small block ford? let me know in the comments!!!
Hey Man Thanks...😉
Yea SA books are the best! Got a few myself. Keep up the good videos ThunderBed469.
"Don't mess this up" and then he installs a common seal with a hammer. God, we love this guy. Have a few drinks and tune into this channel. Keep it up, we need more of this in the shop !
I know. This guy's hammer method is laughable.
My hammer is a 4# craftsman w/ fiberglass handle and he has zero patience.😅
Sweet dude. Love the Galaxy. I have a '65 2door Fairlane 500. Love your videos. Helping me alot. My grampa thanks you from the grave. He bought it in 65 for m uncle to drive to school
Oh..my first car back in 1976 was a 67 Galaxie 500 with 289..miss that car..👉 thanks..nice video..👍
Had a 66. Same car.
Good clip. Can't hurt to wipe some grease on that seal lip. I usually put some on the dampner snout also.
Same here, and I pack the back of the lip where the little spring lives so there is no chance that spring slips off during installation
Any chance you have a link to the tool you used to install the seal?
I have to redo the seal, it has leaked since the day I installed it. I even left the cover a little loose when I installed the bal. I'm going to wait until I buy a cvf racing pulley set.
Timely. Last motor I built tore the front main and threw oil everywhere. I’ve got to get it torn down and changed. Interesting that it goes in from the front. I feel like I’ve always installed them from the rear.
The early timing covers that don’t use a water pump backing plate indeed go from the rear. 67 or so on they went to this design. Way better!
@@ThunderHead289 I have a 66...if I change to newer style timing cover will there be any other differences that will mess me up or should I just stay with the old style and take off the timing cover whenever I change the seal? Could I dig out the old seal from the front without taking off timing cover and then still use the new style seal? Probably not...
Great job, thanks for sharing. Send it!!!
My motto is to always have 2 of those seals, have messed them up before - usually if you have a spare one things go better
Thanks for the video. I just did the timing chain on my 66 Fairlane with a 289. She wasnt starting and had spark and timing was correct so i figured broken teeth on the cam gear. Put her back together and she still wont start. Set TDC with valve cover off and borescope in number 1 cylinder. Out of ideas on this one. She just quit starting one day for no reason. Any suggestions?
Hey friend, I oftentimes miss youtube comments. I run a Facebook page called “Thunderhead289 carb & engine: tech/tune forum” where I answer a lot of stuff like this.
Does she have power to the coil?
(Its likely I won’t see your response, so I encourage you to visit the Facebook page for my help!!!)
@@ThunderHead289 ok, thanks. ill post there!
I bought a new tc cover, and got the same seal in this video. For the life of me, I cannot get it go in straight. I'm using a 2 inch socket which looks about the same diameter as what you use in this video. Any suggestions?
I've replaced the seal 3 times. Still leaks. Would a sleeve on the balancer help. I'm tearing out my hair
Good timing. I have to put one of these on soon. Do you install the blue gaskets for the water pump dry or a bit of sealer? Thanks.
Red spray-on High Tack (not sure if that's the spelling that Permatex actually uses) should work well. We use it all the time at work. Clean your surfaces, spray on both sides of the gaskets and on the mating surfaces, being careful not to get any on your rubber seals, let it tack up a bit and assemble. The high tack will hold the gaskets in place and make assembly easier. If you use rtv silicone, use just a skim of it across the gasket. Using too much silicone can actually push the gasket out of place. That's a lesson I learned the hard way.
@@pfleeger2010 Hey, Thanks man, I'm just getting back into doing this stuff. Good to know what works for other people.
Is it possible to replace the crankshaft seal from the front on a 1970 ford f100 302 engine? Or do I have to take the timing chain cover off and install from the inside? Thank you.
I was just looking at a timing cover from that era…..doesn’t look like you can unless you have some skills at fabricating a retainer over the new seal. I was thinking about removing the metal material on the TC around where the seal goes in. Insert new seal and ( fabricate ). a retainer that’s held on by the TC bolts on the left and right side. It looks like something that’ll work.
I heard something about a repair sleeve for the timing cover, where did that go thank you
It goes over the crank snout. Never in my life have I seen one needed.
@@ThunderHead289 awesome thanks.
Hey. I really enjoy all your videos. I too have and read the How To book u recommend on small block Fords. I am working on a 1973 302/5.0L. Project has a fairly new one piece Felpro pan gasket set. They don’t recommend any type of gasket sealer. I am redoing timing chain and water pump and want your opinion. Apply sealer at corners under tc cover as if it were cork gasket or no sealer? Thx in advance.
Howdy, I don’t think you are going to hurt anything by putting some sealer where the timing cover meets the block
How did you get the old seal off? I can’t get mine of do I need a special tool?
@ThunderHead289 it seems like all of the new timing covers for the 460 has larger 2 bolt holes where the oil pan hooks up. Do you have a fix for this, a helicoil perhaps or maybe a link to a single piece oil pan gasket that has a the 5/16 bolt holes? I've tried drilling out my single piece gasket but it caused leaks. Thanks!
milodon 41005 has the 2 larger holes. I ordered on amazon, and it fit perfectly
The two larger holes are for a couple studs that are supposed to be packaged with the timing cover, or at least they were with mine. Also came with a couple lock nuts for the studs. I literally just did this 7.5l v8 yesterday. Had all kinds of hell finding the correct water pump for it because mine has the heavy duty cooling equipped model in a 93' F-350 2wd daully manual transmission.
So if mine goes in from back and that pice is in the way should I use that seal or one that comes with the gasket set
Please show how you got the old front timing cover seal out too please everyone skips this
Seriously, how is that so hard to find?? I'm stuck at that point myself!
Needle nose plyers or sealer pullers they sell them at auto parts stores
Hammer it out from the other side you might need a torch if its been in there for 30+ years
It’s a bitch that should be a whole video on itself lol
I was putting together my roller 302 timing cover this morning (converting it for an old car). I have the seal your holding but it doesn't fit my 1974 cover. I saw your other video about these converisons and I noticed the link you had for the cover was 68-73. Will I need to get that cover or can I just get a seal for my 74 cover? BTW thanks for all the videos. You have been a lot of help
Do you have the seal that drives in from the back?
I may have just been off on my years - you can absolutely get any seal you need
@@ThunderHead289 Thanks for the quick reply. Yes. I have that one. Just got back with it. Looks a little tough to get in but I'll give it a whirl. Thanks for all your help
I have a 1971 ford f100 ranger XLT with a 360 with a 4 barrel carburetor
Never found a link to a seal with a flange?
Why is the spring. Inside the seal out board ? Almost ever seal I ve ever seen the spring is inboard ? I am asking ?
I can't tell you the how's or why's, all I can tell you is that how you see it done here is how it must be for proper function
I used a Sportster piston and a piece of wood, to seat a timing cover seal once. Worked but don't suggest it ;)
Hey, whatever works as a driver 🤷♂️🤷♂️
Hey bud. Thanks for the vid. Got any suggestions on replacing this exact seal on my fox body but without removing the timing cover from the car? I just redid all this 12 months ago and the dang seal has started leaking again. I have a great seal on the timing cover elsewhere and hate to pull it apart again. And yes, it's the seal for sure. Thanks! oh, gotta link to the large seal install tool? I'm headed over to the other vid to see if its there..
did you end up doing it? i got a 351w im gonna try to get into tomorrow i think my biggest issue might be getting the old one out
How is it removed from the vehicle? I can’t find anyone who will do this job.
I have a 2005 jeep grand Cherokee 4.7 V8 and I have been finding this yellowish white like paste when I take my oil filler cap off, this can't be a good thing. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
You are probably just fine seeing as how it’s currently winter. Basically when it’s cold, moister is drawn into the crankcase when the engine cools down or warms up. Think of condensation that forms on a drink.
If you are only doing short drives and not allowing your engine to reach temp for long enough to vaporize the moisture out of the crankcase, you will see it on the uppermost parts of the engine.
This is assuming your coolant isn’t disappearing from your coolant res - the. That’s a different issue
@@ThunderHead289 thank you very much for your help. Not losing any fluids and the vehicle doesn't smoke at all. Has been pretty cold here in Wisconsin lately. Love your videos, and again thank you.
No problem man, we northern boys gotta stick together. Last week it was darn near uninhabitable here !!!
I just adjusted my rockers in my 454 last night, all sorts of puddles of water, rockers and all were coated with condensation, surface rust on everything! I don’t build this stuff to sit around! Can anything be done about this?
I also have been finding a white pasty oil behind my power valve, only takes a couple hundred miles to appear
Great video, subscribed , but I was tryin to get one out .
I need some insight on a np205 transfer case issue
Good stuff Luke, link for that seal driver? 😁
Your a funny guy!!!
Should have drilled holes in two pieces of flat steel and used a piece of all-thread to "clamp" the seal into place.
Hey got a link fer that fat lip seal ?
anybody ?
this not apply to the 289 engine?
I believe you put it on backwards
WTFO? This guy never puts links as he promises, and then he thinks it's funny when we ask! "Link for that seal driver?" Another vid, ThunderH promised a link for the water pump installed. but never delivered.
The dude specifically he said he cobbled the seal driver together from things in his shop. The question itself in the comments was literally a joke. Calm down.