Recovery Methods, Finger Strength and Peak Performance in Climbing | Ask Lattice Ep.1
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- Ask Lattice Episode 1
In this week's episode, Tom Randall and Ollie Torr answer your questions about recovery methods, peak performance and even dinosaurs.
This was a weekly series in which Tom and Ollie answered your questions about climbing training. In this episode, they received six insightful questions covering the following topics:
0:22 Finger strength and grip types - how to address finger strength against different holds, and the correlation to different types of grips.
2:22 Base training vs. peak training - the importance of building a base level of training in order to maximise those peak weeks.
4:09 Dinosaurs! - ok, this might not be about training, but it was just a bit of fun.
5:06 Muscle groups - strength ratios between agonist and antagonist muscles.
7:20 Recovery - important methods of recovery such as consistent sleeping and eating well for those marginal gains.
9:38 Deloading - how often we should have a deload week in periods of base training and peak training.
If you would like to ask Tom or Ollie a question, why not get in touch via our Instagram:
/ latticetraining
or our website:
latticetrainin...
Find out more about our Lattice Training Plans here: latticetrainin...
I always make sure that when ever possible with my job, I get 8.5hrs sleep a day and wake up at the same time, this massively helps with recovery and energy level. better still is youth, I feel my years nowadays, everything takes longer to heal.
Listened to the podcast episodes and liked them, but really missed actually seeing the people talk. So this really appeals to me. Props!
Thanks very much. We are keen to show our coaches who are behind all of the coaching services we offer! More to come.
Oh my, I thought by dinosaurs you were gonna talk about people with negative ape index! But it happened to be actual dinosaurs lol
Great vid mates! Keep up!
Thanks! more coming this week.
The research I've seen on forearm antagonist balance in climbers points to 1:3
Tom was meaning the raptor dinosaur!
Thank you so much for the video, very interesting.
Thanks for the great video!
I have a question for you guys: I am a very short climber, so I need to dyno a lot, but I struggle to develop a dynamic strength in my legs
I do a routine with jumps 2x a week, but I don't feel like I am improving...
What's your advice?
Hey, this is something we see a lot in shorter climbers. So fundamentally, jumping and dyne's are powerful movements. In order to generate more power you must build a higher strength base.
Try to complete several weeks or months of squat based exercises using moderate to low reps at a high intensity. Its important that the intensity is high enough that you can't complete the action really quickly.
Once strength has increased, switch back to plyometric based exercises such as jumping to increase power and hopefully your dyne's.
Hope this helps!
I've started the Wim Hof breathing exercises, and they seem to help (at least a bit) with recovery. I'd recommend more people try it to see if it makes a difference.
I have actually been looking into this recently. Very interesting theories here!
@@LatticeTraining For sure. The first time I tried it was the night after climbing, and I woke up the next morning super fresh and full of energy.
I do it between burns while I rest. I think all that extra stored oxygen really helps on the send go.
The dinosaur bit got me! You guys might know climbing but dinosaurs.... I think not!
:D
Very true. Research is needed in this area for sure :)
This is great stuff, I know this is a slightly old video, but I wanted to ask about baselining anyway. The video outlines that generally speaking, 4 months of baselining is okay with something like 3 higher intensity weeks and 1 deload week. My question revolves around this with regards to injury recovery. I am sure you guys have dealt with many clients with injuries, I have around 20 years of conditioning experience, so I have no problem with many long training sessions, but 2 months ago I had to have my left shoulder labrum repaired due to tearing it on a boulder. I still have at least 2-3 months to go in rehab until I am cleared to climb again. I am already getting ansy to get back to it, so I am trying to keep myself sane by planning out my training session when I am cleared to climb. Seeing how as I have not been able to climb since January, should I just take the entire 6 month training period and only do baselining even if I am starting to see my strength etc return? I was planning on doing light/moderate calisthenics twice a week, climbing twice a week and gym work twice a week gradually increasing intensity over the 6 month period.
Add a save to offline to the crimpd app my gym has no reception or WiFi
We will look into this for you!
How many rest days do I need to stay injury free and keep performing?
How should the ratio between climbing and training be?
How do I build a training plan which actually works well?
I imagine how many rest days you need is really specific to the the level of ability, and fitness of the climber.
If you're Adam Ondra then you're climbing 2 sessions a day, 6 days a week, but for the average climber I would say 3-4 sessions a week is optimal ( so 3-4 rest days a week).
How much free time you have to rest/relax between work, family etc will probably massively impact your rate of recovery also.
Listen to your body
I started using Crimpd and just purchased a training plan from Lattice. I'm excited to start the plan. I am particularly happy to get the plan from Lattice since I have checked some scientific literature and I see that Ollie and Tom are pretty much on the forefront of the research on fibger strength and its relation to climbing. Having said that i am a bit confused now. There seems to be this concept of critical force, which is thought to be the force which can be theoretically aplied indefinetely, and according to the model it is generated purely by aerobic chemistry. Intuitively, as a route climber, i know that i need to work to increase critical force to get better endurance on routes. What is puzzling to me is this: which exercises (e.g., from crimpd) are directly related to increasing the critical force? Anyone? Thanks!
Hi Michal, from a research point of view we don't know which session or exercises elicit adaptations to critical force. Its just not been studied yet. Though theoretically any of the AeroCap based sessions should work to increase your critical force. We have already observed that route climbers tend to have a greater critical force whereas boulders have greater W', so we can assume that route climbing practices should have an impact on the development of CF.
@@LatticeTraining oh wow! Thanks for the answer. Yeah i wondered that the "aerobic capacity" exercises are probably the ones that would address the improvement in CF.
I am getting too deep into this topic though 😄 There's a danger I'll focus on my Excel and testing data more than on actual climbing. Still, i love to see your efforts in building and verifying a model for finger work in climbing. Cool work!
4:30 velociraptor? My first choice :)
Compsognathus I think...
Is there a way you guys could do audio only uploads on your website?
Hey Rob, Ill look into this. Is this to listen during journeys?
Hey Roi, you can get the mp3 here s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/lattice-audio/ask-lattice/ep1/Ask+Lattice+Ep.1+-+Recovery+Methods%2C+Dinosaurs+and+Peak+Performance-7tql3ZrKeEQ.mp3 We'll look at putting together a website page with all our audio on it.
Hey guys i have a question:
when i hang with one hand my body start rotating so i need to take off a few kilos.
what can i do? a core exercise or one of my fingers isn't strong enough?
Hey, So the best thing in our experience is to keep weight on a pulley system to help stop any rotation. If you can hang on one arm with more than body weight, still keep 1 kg on to stop spinning and add an extra kilo to your body to make up for it.
Another tip is to focus on where you are looking and where your shoulders are pointing. If you look away from the direction of which you are spinning, this can help stop the rotation.
This type of rotation is little to do with your core. It often has more to do with your shoulder girdle and arm control. Try to practice rotations in control using a jug or bar to help train this.
@@LatticeTraining perfect thank you 💪
Hey guys, great informative podcast! I have a question for you: I've been doing max deadhangs for a while (let's say 4 months), and I feel I've ran into a roadblock. I can do double handed hangs on 15mm edges with 20kg added weight quite easily, and I read that going for one handed hangs is prefered over decreasing the edge size or adding more weight. I have tried to do so, but I need -12kg on 30mm edges to be able to do 5 second hangs or -16/20 on the 22mm edge. Is this a usefull way of training, or would you recommend something else alltogether? Thanks in advance and keep doing what you do!
Hey Tom, Its hard to know for sure without having more information about you as a climber. However, based on this feedback I would suggest some of the following things to look into;
1) Your shoulders/arms/upper body is clearly not happy whilst hanging on one arm. The difference in edge size, time and weight from one to two arms is quite significant. Try to complete shoulder engagements on one arm in training to help this and see if it makes a difference. ua-cam.com/video/MBqoPsV2HTI/v-deo.html
2) You may be very well adapted to one grip type. If your hanging in open start to hang in half crimp and vice versa to hit different area's of your forearms.
3) Using a mixture of smaller edges on two arms using a half crimp and then one arm hangs on a larger edge is a good method to make adaptations. Additionally remember to mix up the length of time you are hanging for. 5-12 seconds is ideal.
Hope this helps!
@@LatticeTraining Magnificent! Thanks a bunch for the response. I'm a 6'5'' (196 cm) climber weighing 200 lbs. I've started climbing again 5 months ago after a 5 year break. Before this I've climbed for 9 years continuously.
I really apreciate the effort, and I hope I will have the opportunity to do a lattice assessment some day.
I do not expect another response from you guys, just thought I would put this information out here. Thanks again!
“Antagonist training ‘could’ reduce risk of injury.”
So far I haven’t seen any evidence at all that support this in any sport. Is there?
Hey Henry, We are not aware of much of this research in climbing, however there is a lot of research on exercises which work the supporting muscles and antagonist muscles in other sports that involve throwing, kicking and even swimming. For example, research in football (Soccer) showing the use of Nordic Curls to strengthen he hamstring muscle can reduce the risk of hamstring injuries. The hamstring in this case is an antagonist muscle during the kicking action in football and is responsible for slowing the leg down at the end of range. You are certainly right that more evidence is needed but we also must trust our coaches anecdotal evidence having worked with lots of clients throughout injuries. cheers.
Lattice Training thanks for the reply. I need to do some reading on that.
I thought the question took an interesting angle- the ratio between ag/antag.
Depending on the muscle group it doesn’t seem logical that we need ‘balance’. I always wondered why a human would need even a tiny fraction of the strength to open their hand as to close it for gripping things.
One possible mechanism that could influence this is the proprioceptive system not allowing "full expression" of the agonist, if the antagonist isn't capable of resisting damage from that action (ie; slowing the lower leg down at the end of range of a kick). Not sure how much research backs this up, but found it reason enough to 'keep on top' of the antagonists.
8:10 im off to bed