Just bought a EIKI 16mm sound projector. Ordered some leader and a Kodak Presstape unit like the one in your video. Thank you for doing this video A great help.
Very well done! I have this exact splicer and was surprised to find this video. I have a lot of home movies dating back to about the 30's. Your video answered a LOT of questions. Thanks
Hi, thanks for reply, the film doesn't seem to want to stay on the silver pins, it clips okay on the outer metal pins one wch side, I ran my finger across the silver ones, don't feel that blunt especially compared to 16mm film ones, probably me not being patience enough, I watch your video again more carefully, especialy part of using press tape, as that can be tricky for someone like me with big hands, thanks again
Thank you so much for this. I was really surprised to find an instruction video for this. Looks like I have an even older device, and even have a stack of splicing tapes. Now I am ready to go ahead with digitization of movies from the 1950ies... :-)
Phil, If I understand your problem correctly...you are able to get the film on the plastic pins...but won't stay hook on the metal movable pins..right? You can try bending the metal pens to see if that will create more tension to hold film in place on the plastic pins. I guess it's possible that the pins could get worn over time...but I've never seen that happen.
Yes...there is no difference for splicing film to film or leader to film. You can also use a Cement Splicer (see the link to my tutorial in the description).
I,have one of these, & it belonged to, my Grandfather. He's, the one that did it all. He did Regular8, Super8, 16mm, Slides , Taperecordings, & Records. & more.
Very informative video. Just to confirm, the 16mm press tapes have their own perforations? I have a 16mm film which has many torn perforations near the end of the reel. I also have some clear 16mm film as well. I was thinking of cutting small sections of the clear film (which include perforations) and tape them over the damaged perforations with the press tapes.
I am trying to repair film joints on my 8 mm super 8 home movies. So I have an old splicer and I bought some hama splicing tape. However I just cant get my head around how to use this splicing tape. The sprockets are down the centre of the tape and they are double width. I'm guessing you need to bend it down the middle but not sure. Can anyone keep me right about this ?
This is an excellent video but how would you splice 8mm film if the film is on the upper row. I can get the press tapes to fit on the top row of fixed pins. Do i need to move the film to the bottom row and realign the cut cause right now i have a perfect cut where you can't see it and don't want to disturb it. Please help with showing the procedure using the top row since I'm currently working with 8mm film. Again, the trick is not being able to fit the press tabs on the top row of pins. Thank you.
There is no difference in the procedure. If you are splicing 8mm you only use the top pins for cutting and applying Presstapes. As far as the Presstapes not fitting...make sure you are using 8mm ...not Super 8mm Presstapes. Super 8mm have smaller sprocket holes and won't fit on the 8mm pins.
Hi good video, but my father's one must be blunt wher ethe silver things are the film is not holding in place, I can only get it to hook on the pins I guess they are called each side for teh super 8 film I am trying to join, can they go blunt or is another way to keep film stil while applying press tape. Thanks Phil
Do a Google search for 16mm or 35mm clear leader. 16mm is probably the most usable size since you can find these projectors easily and the size is large enough to paint on. Here's a site: www.numbersfilmsupply.com/categories/Products-by-Size/35mm/
patricksudbury Unfortunately this slpicer is not designed for cement splicing. Cement splicing requires removing the emulsion with a scrapper and the ends of the film need to overlap. See my cement splicer video to see what I mean ua-cam.com/video/7s_kB2_C668/v-deo.html. The Kodak splicer lines the film up to cut the film so the ends butt up against each other.
Thanks for the video! I need to pick someone's brain. I'm using double 8 millimeter film that you shoot on both sides of the film. I need a splicer that cuts the film down the center the whole length of the reel. does anybody know where I can purchase this?
+David Barnes I don't shoot film myself...but the tool you need is a film splitter. Someone recently inquired about the same thing in a thread on the 8mm Forum 8mmforum.film-tech.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=010530. You might want to join and ask if someone has one they want to sell. It's a good place to start. My guess is that the small little hand splitters are hard to come by...good luck!
+David Barnes Here's one on Ebay www.ebay.com/itm/KMZ-Film-Splitting-Trimmer-8mm-Soviet-USSR-Russian-splitter-Quarz-Cine-kodak-/351682103385?hash=item51e1e30859:g:jtcAAOSwe7BWubKl
That has happened to me also Jeff. I just try and be careful...but some films are very brittle and this splicer may not be the best solution if that's the case.
I often use the Kodak splicer to make the curved cut, then align and tape the two ends on the registration pins of a Griswald cement splicer. You get a really accurate line-up that way too.
That's for 16mm and "standard" 8mm only. Griswald never made a super 8 splicer that I know of, but the Craig Master Six is a very good cement splicer for super 8. They have been off the market for years, but it's possible to find a nice used unit on eBay for $15 or less.
+Jack Silverstein Generally 16mm has an optical sound track rather than magnetic. 16mm sound film will only have spockets on one side and the optical track on the opposite side. Light from the exciter lamp shines through the optical track onto the film projecting the sound wave pattern thround the sound lens..
+mystarstudios As you stated and as in the Presstape instructions, you put a complete tape on one side of the film that is not sound striped, and on the sound-stripe side you trim off the edge of the tape that would cover the sound stripe. Of course the optical track is opposite the sprockets. But which side of the film is the sound-stripe side, and which side of the film is NOT sound striped?
+Jack Silverstein I'm beginning to understand. Sound stripe refers to MAGNETIC sound stripe, which from your video is on one side. So for 16mm sound film I can apply a complete tape on both sides, even though I'm covering the optical sound edge?
Just bought a EIKI 16mm sound projector. Ordered some leader and a Kodak Presstape unit like the one in your video. Thank you for doing this video A great help.
Very well done! I have this exact splicer and was surprised to find this video. I have a lot of home movies dating back to about the 30's. Your video answered a LOT of questions. Thanks
Very informative and accurate. Appreciate you taking time to make this for us........
Nice concise tutorial. Am still trying to hunt one of those Kodak splicer machines on ebay but they seem in short supply. But I'll keep trying :)
Thank you for posting this. I had the pins reversed, meaning I thought the top pins were for S-8
Hi, thanks for reply, the film doesn't seem to want to stay on the silver pins, it clips okay on the outer metal pins one wch side, I ran my finger across the silver ones, don't feel that blunt especially compared to 16mm film ones, probably me not being patience enough, I watch your video again more carefully, especialy part of using press tape, as that can be tricky for someone like me with big hands, thanks again
Excellent! Thank you for doing such a professional job on this video.
Wait, so is this how you splice two pieces of film as well?
Thanks heaps! :D
I like to pretend Thelma Schoonmaker is the narrator.
LOL. When it comes to editors...Thelma is one of the best!
she is one of the best ever! hope she lives forever. also, nice video. thanks for the help.
Thank you Shannon, especially for the "sound young" comment. I'm actually retired and film and video are my hobbies.
Thank you so much for this. I was really surprised to find an instruction video for this. Looks like I have an even older device, and even have a stack of splicing tapes. Now I am ready to go ahead with digitization of movies from the 1950ies... :-)
Just got into films. I purchased one of these and this is so helpful. Hope all is well thank you. 🎬
Use lint-free white gloves when editing any film, please!
Very helpful! Thank you!
Excellent demonstration! Thank you so much!!!!
So glad it helped you Hector.
loving loving loving. Thanks for such a gentle education. Bless bless.
Where can I buy that equipment?
Phil, If I understand your problem correctly...you are able to get the film on the plastic pins...but won't stay hook on the metal movable pins..right? You can try bending the metal pens to see if that will create more tension to hold film in place on the plastic pins. I guess it's possible that the pins could get worn over time...but I've never seen that happen.
Yes...there is no difference for splicing film to film or leader to film. You can also use a Cement Splicer (see the link to my tutorial in the description).
so nice. thank you!
I,have one of these, & it belonged to, my Grandfather. He's, the one that did it all. He did Regular8, Super8, 16mm, Slides , Taperecordings, & Records. & more.
Very informative video. Just to confirm, the 16mm press tapes have their own perforations? I have a 16mm film which has many torn perforations near the end of the reel. I also have some clear 16mm film as well. I was thinking of cutting small sections of the clear film (which include perforations) and tape them over the damaged perforations with the press tapes.
I am trying to repair film joints on my 8 mm super 8 home movies. So I have an old splicer and I bought some hama splicing tape. However I just cant get my head around how to use this splicing tape. The sprockets are down the centre of the tape and they are double width. I'm guessing you need to bend it down the middle but not sure. Can anyone keep me right about this ?
i use my fingernails to smooth the tape splices..
This is a beautiful pieces of nugget of knowledge of bygone eras
Nice Video, Can you use the same method using the press tapes to repair broken sprockets which causes the film to skip frames or even stall?
Thanks, Mrs G! I did my first 16mm splice tonight and needed a refresher!
This is an excellent video but how would you splice 8mm film if the film is on the upper row. I can get the press tapes to fit on the top row of fixed pins. Do i need to move the film to the bottom row and realign the cut cause right now i have a perfect cut where you can't see it and don't want to disturb it. Please help with showing the procedure using the top row since I'm currently working with 8mm film. Again, the trick is not being able to fit the press tabs on the top row of pins. Thank you.
There is no difference in the procedure. If you are splicing 8mm you only use the top pins for cutting and applying Presstapes. As far as the Presstapes not fitting...make sure you are using 8mm ...not Super 8mm Presstapes. Super 8mm have smaller sprocket holes and won't fit on the 8mm pins.
Thank you for this excellent tutorial. It's exactly the information I needed.
Extremely helpful. Thank you!
Hi good video, but my father's one must be blunt wher ethe silver things are the film is not holding in place, I can only get it to hook on the pins I guess they are called each side for teh super 8 film I am trying to join, can they go blunt or is another way to keep film stil while applying press tape. Thanks Phil
Nice little splicer. I will keep an eye out for such a thing.
Urbanski Film has taken over the manufacturing of Presstapes from Eastman Kodak, who no longer make them.
How does one get completely blank film? As in, clear film.
Stan Brakhage used to use completely clear film to paint on.
Do a Google search for 16mm or 35mm clear leader. 16mm is probably the most usable size since you can find these projectors easily and the size is large enough to paint on. Here's a site:
www.numbersfilmsupply.com/categories/Products-by-Size/35mm/
Thanks so much! Very clear and helpful tutorial! Would you use the same technique to join two strips of film?
Nevermind, it seems to answered this already below 🤐
You sound young but the video is put together very well. Thanks
This is fabulous!!! Exactly what I needed for the Splicer I am using! Thanks!
Excellent demonstration
Great video, but could I use film cement (or any multi-purpose cement) instead of the prostates with this particular splicer?
patricksudbury Unfortunately this slpicer is not designed for cement splicing. Cement splicing requires removing the emulsion with a scrapper and the ends of the film need to overlap. See my cement splicer video to see what I mean ua-cam.com/video/7s_kB2_C668/v-deo.html. The Kodak splicer lines the film up to cut the film so the ends butt up against each other.
Oh okay, thanks!
Thanks for the video! I need to pick someone's brain. I'm using double 8 millimeter film that you shoot on both sides of the film. I need a splicer that cuts the film down the center the whole length of the reel. does anybody know where I can purchase this?
+David Barnes I don't shoot film myself...but the tool you need is a film splitter. Someone recently inquired about the same thing in a thread on the 8mm Forum 8mmforum.film-tech.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=010530. You might want to join and ask if someone has one they want to sell. It's a good place to start. My guess is that the small little hand splitters are hard to come by...good luck!
+mystarstudios thank you!!
+David Barnes Here's one on Ebay www.ebay.com/itm/KMZ-Film-Splitting-Trimmer-8mm-Soviet-USSR-Russian-splitter-Quarz-Cine-kodak-/351682103385?hash=item51e1e30859:g:jtcAAOSwe7BWubKl
Excellent
I never use the spring-loaded metal pins myself, as I have had several instances in which they will actually tear the sprocket holes laid over them.
That has happened to me also Jeff. I just try and be careful...but some films are very brittle and this splicer may not be the best solution if that's the case.
I often use the Kodak splicer to make the curved cut, then align and tape the two ends on the registration pins of a Griswald cement splicer. You get a really accurate line-up that way too.
That's for 16mm and "standard" 8mm only. Griswald never made a super 8 splicer that I know of, but the Craig Master Six is a very good cement splicer for super 8. They have been off the market for years, but it's possible to find a nice used unit on eBay for $15 or less.
Which side is the sound-stripe side of 16mm film?
+Jack Silverstein Generally 16mm has an optical sound track rather than magnetic. 16mm sound film will only have spockets on one side and the optical track on the opposite side. Light from the exciter lamp shines through the optical track onto the film projecting the sound wave pattern thround the sound lens..
+mystarstudios As you stated and as in the Presstape instructions, you put a complete tape on one side of the film that is not sound striped, and on the sound-stripe side you trim off the edge of the tape that would cover the sound stripe. Of course the optical track is opposite the sprockets. But which side of the film is the sound-stripe side, and which side of the film is NOT sound striped?
+Jack Silverstein I'm beginning to understand. Sound stripe refers to MAGNETIC sound stripe, which from your video is on one side. So for
16mm sound film I can apply a complete tape on both sides, even though
I'm covering the optical sound edge?
+Jack Silverstein Because the tape is clear it doesn't block the optical reading of the track.