Blessing To Climb Another Day - Lead Rope Solo On Lord Of The Flies (Phantasia Wall)

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  • Опубліковано 3 жов 2023
  • Blessing To Climb Another Day - Lead Rope Solo On Lord Of The Flies (Phantasia Wall)
    Welcome to USG! Today, I am yet again in beautiful Red River Gorge, climbing on the Phantasia Wall, the route called Lord of the Flies. It is a shorter and easier route, so I wanted to see how fast I can go being more efficient with the rope management. The route itself is very interesting with some cool moves, although I am pretty sure there has to be an easier beta since it is rate 5.8.
    Here is the gear list, function and performance:
    Rope - Black Diamond 9.6mm, 60m length. (alnk.to/7BdjAEL) Had this rope for a while now, mostly gym use, somewhat budget friendly, great for all around, but seems to work especially well for LRS because it is on a thicker side. I tested with my 8mm dry rope and it does slip a lot more through the GriGri.
    Belay device - GriGri Plus. (amzn.to/3ENrH95) Yes, it is a belay device and is not designed for LRS, which you do notice once in a while, but it worked!
    Traction pulley - MicroTraxion. (amzn.to/451a403) I definitely underestimated the amount of help that this device offers with the rope management. It is very intuitive, solid performance, and you can use it both as traction pulley and regular pulley, which I didn't even realize you could do. I was switching the positioning of the MicroTraxion on the harness from left to right as I was moving on the wall. It does require a little more planning, but makes it much easier to give slack, with better handhold on the left or right.
    I used Petzl Pro Oxan (amzn.to/3POz7iT) carabiner for the main anchoring point.
    I also attempted two more routes on this day, but they will have to be saved for another day. Thanks for watching, God bless!

КОМЕНТАРІ • 2

  • @56466bhggh
    @56466bhggh 8 місяців тому

    Have you tried LRS with the upside down grigri?

    • @UltimateSurvivalGear
      @UltimateSurvivalGear  8 місяців тому +1

      I was playing with it first, because I've seen a few experienced guys doing it that way, but I could not get to engage it, not sure why, but I've read something about more weight that is required in order for the upside down grigri to engage. I'll try to figure out the mechanics of it eventually, because it would make taking out slack so much easier.