FYI, if your 540i has an automatic transmission, you will not have that drain plug at the bottom of the radiator. Instead, you have a hose going from the bottom of the radiator to a transmission heat exchanger. Pull that hose off and you can drain the coolant from there.
Also, you should probably change the description to "Replace the alternator on a 1999-2003 BMW E39 540i." The pre-Vanos E39s from 1996 to late 1998 had a regular, air-cooled alternator that's mounted differently.
This is key remember guys when u do this job disconnect the battery this is crucial. Also since u have it broke down this is a good time to change ur belts cheers.
As for loosening the alternator belt, you're supposed to *only* loosen the two hex bolts above the roller, that loosens the belt enough to take it off - there's not need to remove the roller itself, unless it makes noises. For tightening, use a wrench on the hex section behind the lower screw to push the assembly counter-clockwise until the upper screw is all the way at its end, then tighten both screws (30 Nm for the water cooled variant).
Hi Ryan/E39Source Its been awhile since I have contacted you guys and now I have just gone through a similar Fan/Alt/Power Steering Belt replacement, because the previous one broke! Holy crap, what a job that was trying to get that Belt replaced! A few weeks ago I was arriving home after getting my All-season Tires installed on Brand new (Gloss Black=Brand "Replika") rims and about a 1/4 mile from my house my Red engine light came on and my steering became very difficult to turn, plus I started to smell burning rubber. So, I just manged to get in my driveway, I then shut my Car "off" immediately, opened the hood; expecting to see a small fire started, but then I noticed the main Fan Belt had snapped. So, I quickly found a local auto retailer had one in stock, I brought it home and tried installing it...very frustrating job. But, no luck I couldn't get the belt on and previous to that, I pondered replacing both the Main Belt and the A/C Comp Belt, along with replacing both Tensioner assemblies with new ones. Well, between fighting with the install process and the "crappy" cold, rainy Spring we have been experiencing (My Car is parked outside, in my driveway)...not a very ideal place to work on my vehicle! Well, yesterday, after finally getting all the Belts, Tensioner assembles..etc installed, I proceeded to start my Car...and to my horror, I started hearing "screeching" and smelling burnt rubber (Brand new Belt)...I opened my hood and I saw that the Belt was not turning the Alternator...:-( Addition thoughts: when I was removing the old Belt, I tried turning/spinning all the Belt Pulleys, Idler Pulleys to check the bearings, when it came time to turn the Alternator pulley, I couldn't turn it by hand...I thought that was a concern, but then I said to myself, maybe it takes the Belt to be able to turn the Alt Pulley. But, thinking about it yesterday; I now know what potentially happened to the previous Belt....I think my Alternator was starting to cease and the Belt was rubbing on the pulley, causing it to wear quickly and to also cause it to break!! So, now I have the "fun" job of replacing my Alternator, with a Remanufactured one or a rebuilt one. Wish me luck..:-/
I changed it alone without removing the radiator. I used an old belt to wrap the new alternator in place while with the other hand I screwed in the bolts in place. Pain in the ass but much faster than climbing inside the engine 😲
My car has 50000 miles on it, just did a oil change and after putting filter back on re connecting all the bolts etc, started car and the batt light came on and won’t go off. Battery is new, holding about 11V so alt is not charging. Before I buy a new one is there any other trouble shooting I should do ?
Hey buddy I accident connected wrong jumper cable positive to negative and negative to positive on my e39 m5. But I reconnected again with 12.7v , car won’t start. Turn key dash light flash off and on. Do you think my alternator dead. all fuse looking good . Thank you
I'm actually not sure what your problem ma be. Reversing the leads probably blew/shorted/fried some key (no pun intended) component. You probably need to diagnose the electrical system at this point.
When i start my 740 iL with this same alternaot it charges at around 13.5V, however after around 8 minutes at idle or if im driving the voltage slowly begins to drop and drop to around 12.2 volts. Battery is only a few months old, i checked all the grounds and they are ok, i replaced belts, and tensioners etc and still having the same problem. My battery light is working as it is illuminated before engine start, but when the voltage drops to around 12,2 v the battery light does not illuminate. Is it possible that at temperature it not getting the required cooling hence the drop in output ? Any thoughts or recommendations ? :)
Have you experienced any issues with the car stalling, electronics failing, or it not starting? An alternator only producing 12.2 volts at idle should absolutely trip the red battery light on the cluster. I would assume this is a bad alternator.
No I haven’t had any of that, or was replaced last year when I was getting batt light. I still have the other one and will get that rebuilt then install that one and hope that fixes it
How is the Pure Energy alternator working for you? Is it still up and running? I just replaced mine with a "new" alternator (not Bosch/BMW OE) and it just died after 3 weeks of driving. Voltage ranging from 10 to 19 volts. :(((( Looking at buying either new "Power Select" brand or rebuilt by Pure Energy. Thank you !!!
After seeing this, I am glad I bought a 2001 BMW 530i and not the 2001 540i. The extra power in the 540i doesn't out way the headache and extra expense !
@@maliek7112 You will have to look at it, if it looks like a bird cage, it's standard, and cooled by air. If it looks like enclosed, like the one in this video, it's water-cooled.
Best to bleed a BMW with the engine off first.BMWs unlike most have the thermostat in input side. I remove the top hose and add coolant direscly to the engine. Then replace the hose and open the bleeder and fill the radiator by brimming the tank. Before starting the engine make sure the top hose is full by squeezing it with the bleeder open. Finally start the engine witb the tank brimed and check for heat of from the heater. Check both sides for heat. If one is cold turn the other to cold and rev the engine a little. Now replace the cap and you are ready to go. By following this you save the engine, your time and you should not have to keep filling up over the next few days. I did this a few weeks ago on my E38 740 and never had to add an extra drop of coolant.
@@E39Source I just replaced my alternator and torqued it to 10nm and it is leaking coolant from the connection between the engine and alternator. There is an o-ring in it, I didnt grease it. Do you think it needs to be tighter?
@@danielaliakseyeu9582 The o-ring should be replaced any time the alternator is removed. If properly installed, 10nm should be fine. It may have pinched or torn during installation though.
this is gravy lol ksd shows 2.5 fru i did these under warranty years ago in under an hour. you guys work too hard bleed the cooling system the clean & easy way. use a pressure tester and crack the bleeder
+Thor Magee Just another example of BMW's brilliance. Just like the plastic valley pans, poor Vanos seals, cheap interior plastics, fading parcel shelves, and plastic cooling systems. Oh, wait, did I say brilliance? I meant cheapness. -_-
computiNATEor I agree, I have no appreciation for the extensive use of unstable plastic that fails long before it's time due to embrittlement. Once these cars are about 10 years old, they slowly turn into a money pit nightmare. It's been that way on my E36, E46 and E39 anyways. Perhaps others have had better luck. It's a shame because BMWs are excellent machines, just cheaply made materials.
+computiNATEor I think it is unfair to say cheap interior plastics, my E46 interior looks fantastic. Sure I have had to super glue my sunroof motor cover tabs and replace the rear cigarette compartment cover, but that is it! That said, I really am not impressed with so called BMW reliability. Before owning an E46 (when I had an e36), they seemed bullet proof and one of the best cars BMW built. Fucking bullshit. My oil filter housing and rocker cover gasket are leaking oil at 130,000kms and the previous owner replaced multiple times. My clutch shudders and makes shitty clattering noises. The front suspension towers have luckily not mushroomed out, but they COULD. Can't say I'm that impressed really.
***** I think the plastic quality depends greatly on the individual car; my e39 has been an outdoor car all its life, and without tint, so the interior plastics have been baked for 10+ years now. So many of them (especially on the rear parcel shelf) crack upon removal it's crazy.
***** I should also note that we have a 1995 Toyota Camry that has been outside its whole life, too, and it has held up much better, in terms of squeaks and rattles.
***** can you make a video about all common problems that e39 has....seems like there are ton of them and on avarage u have to spend 1-2k per year for driving that car.
+xAsmir That'll be a good video for the spring! Some E39s need $20,000 in a year. Some need $0. It's all based on what the car is, how it has been treated, and what your expectations are.
Just FYI, if you find yourself removing the fan clutch, a big Duralast 1.25-inch wrench commonly available from AutoZone and a hammer work just as well as the specialized tools used here. A bit more violent, but more convenient.
+computiNATEor I can confirm that this works quite well. The serpentine belt tension is enough to hold it in place for a few well-placed whacks. Once the fan clutch nut breaks loose, you can remove it with your hands. Make sure you whack it to the right, because the fan clutch nut has a reverse thread.
Fuck getting a E39! A water cooled alternator, what the hell? That is just over complicated and poor engineering. Glad my e46 has a NORMAL alternator. Jeez
FYI, if your 540i has an automatic transmission, you will not have that drain plug at the bottom of the radiator. Instead, you have a hose going from the bottom of the radiator to a transmission heat exchanger. Pull that hose off and you can drain the coolant from there.
Danny Zabolotny preciate it blood
Danny Zabolotny what if I have a manual transmission ?
@@maliek7112 Then you will have a drain plug as shown in the video
i know im very very late but depends, my non vanos engine has a drain plug from 97 eu spec
Also, you should probably change the description to "Replace the alternator on a 1999-2003 BMW E39 540i." The pre-Vanos E39s from 1996 to late 1998 had a regular, air-cooled alternator that's mounted differently.
Bozo
This is key remember guys when u do this job disconnect the battery this is crucial. Also since u have it broke down this is a good time to change ur belts cheers.
As for loosening the alternator belt, you're supposed to *only* loosen the two hex bolts above the roller, that loosens the belt enough to take it off - there's not need to remove the roller itself, unless it makes noises.
For tightening, use a wrench on the hex section behind the lower screw to push the assembly counter-clockwise until the upper screw is all the way at its end, then tighten both screws (30 Nm for the water cooled variant).
Awesome video guys, as always :)
Thanks for always helping out our e39 community.
Hi Ryan/E39Source
Its been awhile since I have contacted you guys and now I have just gone through a similar Fan/Alt/Power Steering Belt replacement, because the previous one broke! Holy crap, what a job that was trying to get that Belt replaced! A few weeks ago I was arriving home after getting my All-season Tires installed on Brand new (Gloss Black=Brand "Replika") rims and about a 1/4 mile from my house my Red engine light came on and my steering became very difficult to turn, plus I started to smell burning rubber. So, I just manged to get in my driveway, I then shut my Car "off" immediately, opened the hood; expecting to see a small fire started, but then I noticed the main Fan Belt had snapped. So, I quickly found a local auto retailer had one in stock, I brought it home and tried installing it...very frustrating job. But, no luck I couldn't get the belt on and previous to that, I pondered replacing both the Main Belt and the A/C Comp Belt, along with replacing both Tensioner assemblies with new ones. Well, between fighting with the install process and the "crappy" cold, rainy Spring we have been experiencing (My Car is parked outside, in my driveway)...not a very ideal place to work on my vehicle! Well, yesterday, after finally getting all the Belts, Tensioner assembles..etc installed, I proceeded to start my Car...and to my horror, I started hearing "screeching" and smelling burnt rubber (Brand new Belt)...I opened my hood and I saw that the Belt was not turning the Alternator...:-( Addition thoughts: when I was removing the old Belt, I tried turning/spinning all the Belt Pulleys, Idler Pulleys to check the bearings, when it came time to turn the Alternator pulley, I couldn't turn it by hand...I thought that was a concern, but then I said to myself, maybe it takes the Belt to be able to turn the Alt Pulley. But, thinking about it yesterday; I now know what potentially happened to the previous Belt....I think my Alternator was starting to cease and the Belt was rubbing on the pulley, causing it to wear quickly and to also cause it to break!! So, now I have the "fun" job of replacing my Alternator, with a Remanufactured one or a rebuilt one. Wish me luck..:-/
The alternator pulley should spin freely by hand with ease. Definitely sounds like you have a seized alternator! A fresh one will fix your problems.
@@E39Source have you ever seen anyone do a bearing replacement on the oe alternator
@@MaxCaissie No, it's better to just replace the entire alternator.
@@E39Source better
That black thing is AUC sensor. Senses pollution level of the ambient air and controls the cabin air intake flow according to that.
Hey thanks for this, this is the exact thing I need to do. So far I've gotten the alternator out.
One of the reasons I like my Non TU M62 :)
+Emily1963eh I was really close to buying one, but it needed a rear main seal and clutch, and had a nasty interior. It was cheap, though.
*Thanks for sharing; would have been also nice to see the repairing of the old alternator.*
With the blue rad plug you dont have to pull with your hands, you can put a small screwdriver in the hole and leverage it out.
Have you considered a "spill free funnel"? they work very well to keep air out of you cooling systems.
Wow cool man, it’s good to have friends
great vid here guys tks alot!!
It's worth looking into doing it yourself, I got mine replaced at a shop and it cost me $1,100
I changed it alone without removing the radiator. I used an old belt to wrap the new alternator in place while with the other hand I screwed in the bolts in place. Pain in the ass but much faster than climbing inside the engine 😲
Thanks for the video. Great stuff. Super helpful. Thanks again.
great job lads
My car has 50000 miles on it, just did a oil change and after putting filter back on re connecting all the bolts etc, started car and the batt light came on and won’t go off. Battery is new, holding about 11V so alt is not charging. Before I buy a new one is there any other trouble shooting I should do ?
Check all connections for tightness- but it sounds like you're due for an alternator.
Thanks for the vid I found it useful.
Hey buddy I accident connected wrong jumper cable positive to negative and negative to positive on my e39 m5. But I reconnected again with 12.7v , car won’t start. Turn key dash light flash off and on. Do you think my alternator dead. all fuse looking good . Thank you
I'm actually not sure what your problem ma be. Reversing the leads probably blew/shorted/fried some key (no pun intended) component. You probably need to diagnose the electrical system at this point.
COMO CABE ENTRE EL MOTOR Y EL RADIADOR !?!?
When i start my 740 iL with this same alternaot it charges at around 13.5V, however after around 8 minutes at idle or if im driving the voltage slowly begins to drop and drop to around 12.2 volts. Battery is only a few months old, i checked all the grounds and they are ok, i replaced belts, and tensioners etc and still having the same problem. My battery light is working as it is illuminated before engine start, but when the voltage drops to around 12,2 v the battery light does not illuminate. Is it possible that at temperature it not getting the required cooling hence the drop in output ? Any thoughts or recommendations ? :)
Have you experienced any issues with the car stalling, electronics failing, or it not starting? An alternator only producing 12.2 volts at idle should absolutely trip the red battery light on the cluster. I would assume this is a bad alternator.
No I haven’t had any of that, or was replaced last year when I was getting batt light. I still have the other one and will get that rebuilt then install that one and hope that fixes it
How is the Pure Energy alternator working for you? Is it still up and running? I just replaced mine with a "new" alternator (not Bosch/BMW OE) and it just died after 3 weeks of driving. Voltage ranging from 10 to 19 volts. :(((( Looking at buying either new "Power Select" brand or rebuilt by Pure Energy. Thank you !!!
Alex sold this car about a year after this video was made, but it worked fine after installation for as long as he kept it!
@@E39Source Thank you!
"it's just part of the game". lol.
After seeing this, I am glad I bought a 2001 BMW 530i and not the 2001 540i. The extra power in the 540i doesn't out way the headache and extra expense !
What year 540 is this? I have a 98 (04/98 production year) 540i with air cooled alternator.
+Dennis Canon This is a 1999 (04/99 production). They must have changed somewhere in there.
If I have a 1999 BMW 540i V8 . Every aspect of the car referring to the direction of the alternator is it in the same place as your BMW?
Yes, it should be the same. Some are water cooled, and some are air cooled though. If yours is water cooled like in this video, it will be identical.
E39Source, LLC how do I know if mine is water cooled ?
@@maliek7112 You will have to look at it, if it looks like a bird cage, it's standard, and cooled by air. If it looks like enclosed, like the one in this video, it's water-cooled.
Coming front the Toyota/ Lexus background this is super complicated in comparison
why is it that the M62's run so much hotter than S62? engineering wise
+TheCasper1901 I wish I knew!
Bmw engines are generally hot for maximizing performance
My car died while driving can it be the alternator?
It certainly can be, though I would do diagnosis to confirm before replacing it.
I just got my alternator replaced. The mechanic had never installed a water cooled alternator lol $600 in parts and labor.
How long did it take you to do this R&R?
Probably 2-3 hours but we were in no hurry.
Best to bleed a BMW with the engine off first.BMWs unlike most have the thermostat in input side. I remove the top hose and add coolant direscly to the engine. Then replace the hose and open the bleeder and fill the radiator by brimming the tank. Before starting the engine make sure the top hose is full by squeezing it with the bleeder open. Finally start the engine witb the tank brimed and check for heat of from the heater. Check both sides for heat. If one is cold turn the other to cold and rev the engine a little. Now replace the cap and you are ready to go. By following this you save the engine, your time and you should not have to keep filling up over the next few days. I did this a few weeks ago on my E38 740 and never had to add an extra drop of coolant.
Andrew Thompson aux water pump is nice too
You have been warned…
Never buy a post 1998 m62 car..
Vanos + water cooled alternators and such = a nightmare!!!
Nicely done! Thanks!
God damnit! Why didn't you tell me the fan clutch was reverse threaded!
***** i was kidding...
what is the torque spec you used for the alternator bolts??
71 inch pounds for the M6 threads. 115 inch pounds for the ground nut.
@@E39Source I just replaced my alternator and torqued it to 10nm and it is leaking coolant from the connection between the engine and alternator. There is an o-ring in it, I didnt grease it. Do you think it needs to be tighter?
@@danielaliakseyeu9582 The o-ring should be replaced any time the alternator is removed. If properly installed, 10nm should be fine. It may have pinched or torn during installation though.
@@E39Source I put in a new alternator that came with a new o-ring. Do you think i should tighten it then or get a new o-ring
@@danielaliakseyeu9582 I would want to remove it and inspect the o-ring, those are fragile threads.
this is gravy lol ksd shows 2.5 fru i did these under warranty years ago in under an hour. you guys work too hard bleed the cooling system the clean & easy way. use a pressure tester and crack the bleeder
hey if I got a 1995 8v BMW it is the same thing
It depends, is it the same engine? What model BMW is it?
E39Source mine is 530I
E34 1995 8v
Bmw 2002 740il remove alternator
Water cooled alternator, just when I thought I seen it all.
+Thor Magee Just another example of BMW's brilliance. Just like the plastic valley pans, poor Vanos seals, cheap interior plastics, fading parcel shelves, and plastic cooling systems. Oh, wait, did I say brilliance? I meant cheapness. -_-
computiNATEor
I agree, I have no appreciation for the extensive use of unstable plastic that fails long before it's time due to embrittlement. Once these cars are about 10 years old, they slowly turn into a money pit nightmare. It's been that way on my E36, E46 and E39 anyways. Perhaps others have had better luck. It's a shame because BMWs are excellent machines, just cheaply made materials.
+computiNATEor
I think it is unfair to say cheap interior plastics, my E46 interior looks fantastic. Sure I have had to super glue my sunroof motor cover tabs and replace the rear cigarette compartment cover, but that is it!
That said, I really am not impressed with so called BMW reliability. Before owning an E46 (when I had an e36), they seemed bullet proof and one of the best cars BMW built.
Fucking bullshit.
My oil filter housing and rocker cover gasket are leaking oil at 130,000kms and the previous owner replaced multiple times.
My clutch shudders and makes shitty clattering noises.
The front suspension towers have luckily not mushroomed out, but they COULD.
Can't say I'm that impressed really.
***** I think the plastic quality depends greatly on the individual car; my e39 has been an outdoor car all its life, and without tint, so the interior plastics have been baked for 10+ years now. So many of them (especially on the rear parcel shelf) crack upon removal it's crazy.
***** I should also note that we have a 1995 Toyota Camry that has been outside its whole life, too, and it has held up much better, in terms of squeaks and rattles.
that guy has bad fan clutch...u can see fan spining backwards very easly and not giving any resistance....
+xAsmir The fan clutch was recently replaced.
***** can you make a video about all common problems that e39 has....seems like there are ton of them and on avarage u have to spend 1-2k per year for driving that car.
+xAsmir That'll be a good video for the spring! Some E39s need $20,000 in a year. Some need $0. It's all based on what the car is, how it has been treated, and what your expectations are.
***** 0$...i dont think so :) there is always something to fix or something to change on BMW....
+xAsmir Gas maybe. My dad has gone a year with his 2006 M5 without needing anything but gas and oil.
Just FYI, if you find yourself removing the fan clutch, a big Duralast 1.25-inch wrench commonly available from AutoZone and a hammer work just as well as the specialized tools used here. A bit more violent, but more convenient.
+computiNATEor I can confirm that this works quite well. The serpentine belt tension is enough to hold it in place for a few well-placed whacks. Once the fan clutch nut breaks loose, you can remove it with your hands. Make sure you whack it to the right, because the fan clutch nut has a reverse thread.
Hey! I recognize that profile from Jalopnik! :)
I'm all over the place ;)
Fuck getting a E39! A water cooled alternator, what the hell? That is just over complicated and poor engineering.
Glad my e46 has a NORMAL alternator.
Jeez
lol, but its a disposable 3 series xD
great vid here guys tks alot!!