Replaced my 2008 Mazda 3 battery at Sam's this morning (10/19/16) On my way home it started stalling at every stop I came to. I immediately took it back to Sam's and told them of the issue. They were nice enough but said the ONLY thing they did was take the old battery out and drop the new one in, other than that nothing else was done so they didn't know what could be causing the problem. I called my Mazda dealer to bring it in and they said there would be a $115 diagnostic charge which would be applied to any repairs. Was not happy about that so I decided to go to UA-cam and see if there were any help videos. I found this one and it described my issue exactly so I did as instructed in the video and low and behold the problem was solved. I immediately called the Mazda dealer back and cancelled my appointment. Thanks Carquestions, you saved me at least $115!!!
Due Diligence! you did what lazy people don't do, did your own research quick and easy and saved $115 i don't even own a mazda. filing this into my brain. i Like, OLE'!
Thank you. I was stranded in the city and decided to first try UA-cam before calling a mechanic. It was absolutely the battery and now I'm home safe. You've saved me so much time and money. God bless
Boy, oh boy. Wish I'd found your video a couple of weeks ago. Looking at other forums for 2002 Mazda Protoge 5 rough idle stalling, led me to changing coils, ignition leads, spark plugs, MAF, EGR valve, cleaning throttle body etc, etc. All this after my battery died and I changed it. I just followed your video to the letter, and problem solved. Now idles well, with no rough spots or stalling whatsoever. thank You, thank you, thank you. You just saved me starting to look at fuel injectors and spending more money.. :-)
this is typical with a lot of electrically actuated throttle bodies where a bit of dirt will cause a bit of rough idle. also disconnecting a battery on certain cars will cause it to forget how to drive. it forgets its parameters how much fuel to how much advanced timing etc. thats why just letting it idle jogs its memory
Push back throttle body butterfly and wipe it out with some carby cleaner. Does not need to be perfect but it worked for me. I had stalling gearbox down shift issues and this fixed all of that.
My car is doing EXACTLY THIS RIGHT NOW. We took the cables off the terminals to clean the battery posts and when we put it back together it's been stalling and idling really low, its died on me several times when I stopped at a red light or stop sign.. I've looked up what could cause this and this makes perfect sense!
You sir, deserve a medal! My 2007 Mazda 5 was almost dying at stop lights/stop signs after changing the battery. I did what you showed on this video and now the problem is gone! Thanks for posting this:)
Thank you, this worked great on our 2005 Mazda 3i. It does, however, only work if the procedure is done right after reconnecting the battery. At first, we had already driven the car for a few days after putting in a new battery, wondering why it always stalled when stopping and idling, when I came across this tip and tried it. The car was still stalling afterwards, so I disconnected the battery again and then followed the directions in the video right after reconnecting it and now the car runs like a charm. Great tip, saved us spending a bunch at the garage.
Was very pleasantly surprised that this fixed the rough idle on my 2005 Mazda 3. After replacing my battery, I was having issues with the RPM bouncing between 500-1200 and almost stalling when I would come to a stop. This resolved the problem perfectly, runs just like it did before. Thank you!
BRILLIANT. 2009 mazda3 SP25. My car was running fine I disconnected my battery to reset Bluetooth as connecting to it let was giving me issues when I Reconnected the battery fixed my Bluetooth but my car engine ran terribly. Watched this guys video and did EXACTLY what he said. BAM car runs like a dream again !!! Give this guy an award !
I have a 2007 CX7 my wife took to mechanic. changed plugs and they fouled out he tried to say it was out of time . I called Mazda found out unless you use Mazda Factory plugs the aftermarkets are not long enough. got it started and it ran like crap. It sat without a battery for 2 months. I've went thru everything until i saw your article. It WORKED YOU ARE A GODSEND. I've been Working on this for a week and now it runs awesome. Thank YOU
Just bought a car and changed the transmission on then it was shaky after the car was fixed, saw this video drives perfect after doing this . . . Thank you
you really saved a lot of money and big headake, it looks fixed after 20 mint + 15 mint with AC on , it didn't stop in traffic lights now. thank you so much. and God bless you! for your great community help.
Excuse my language, but after watching this video, I am now out of my Fokang Mind when it comes to all the bullshit electronics on newer cars and how auto manufacturers will design cars to take our money since none of us would EVER consider to allow our cars to IDLE for an HOUR in order for it to "re-learn" the idle! An hour at Mazda, is what I assume is required for this SIMPLE screw job for how much? $120 Thanks! Bitches...
Got a new battery and had these problems the moment I drove away. Fluttering noise then it started to shake. Next drive it stalled ... not every drive but felt like it would. I did everything you said .... 4 days ago .... instant fix ... I even waited and did a few test drives. Thank you so very much 🥲🤗 was about to book it into the mechanics. I am one very grateful woman.👍
Still relevant in 2021. Bought a 2008 Mazda 3 for my daughters first car. With doing bits and pieces, I had to disconnect battery and had this exact stalling and rough idle issue afterwards. Persevered for a couple of days before I stalled the car going around a corner. Found this video and problem solved. This must have saved viewers a combined tens of thousands of dollars/pounds/euros over the years. Many thanks.
I have a Mazda 3 2007 and last year I had been having similar symptoms. My car would have rough idles or runs roughly with stereo resets, steering stiffened and even few times stalling for three or four seconds at low speed (1st or 2nd Gear). There was engine indicator, and as per local mechanic the codes were related to exhaust emission sensor and some radiator sensor, which shouldn't cause rough idling... Therefore, he changed spark plugs. After driving for two or three days, problem started reappearing. Then I used a bottle of PEA detergent for fuel system cleaning. Frequency of problem reduced for several days, but started coming back. Once I had a dead stall for few minutes, where nothing would come up, however after several minute, I started the car and it worked. Then I came across your procedure below, tried and it worked. so far, I have driven over 1000km in Montreal extreme winters, and I didn't see any issue and the engine idle position seems okay. Thanks a lot for this hack. This procedure should be in Mazda manual.
My car won't idle it's very frustrating when they say leave it in the driveway to idle for 20 minutes I'm trying to reset the idle my car will not idle how can I leave it in the driveway idling for 20 minutes if I'm trying to reset the idle it does not idle it goes dead
Replaced my 2006 Mazda 3 battery by AAA a month ago, it started stalling at almost every stop I came to. I didn't realize they are related until watched your video, I start the car and let it idle for 20 minutes and then AC 10 minutes. Now the problem is gone. Thanks!
Thank you for this information! My husband removed the cable on the battery to reset the engine light. That worked but then the car was stalling every time at the same distance from my house. I did exactly what was instructed here and just like that the problem is fixed. Great advise!
Well done Eileen - bravo! - but the light stored a DTC trouble code that might come back - if it does you need to retrieve and record - Cheers from Canada!
this worked on my 2010 mazda 3 after the car battery died. engine light came on indicating a problem with the throttle body. could not rev passed 5000 rpms. there was rough idling. i ran the car for 30 minutes idling, turned a/c on and ran for another 15 minutes. turned the car off and when i started it back up, engine light off and idling was smoother. have not tested RPMs yet. thanks a million!
Oh wow, I am going to try this, my check engine light is on and I have to get it smogged!! It has to do with the altitude or something they said on the check engine light...thank you!!
I am very much compelled to write this message. My 2007 Mazda 3 has been idling rough for months despite cleaning the injectors and throttle body and was prepared to send it to the shop to get it fixed; Then I bump into your video by accident and was extremely skeptical at first, but seeing hundreds of positive comments and decided to give it a try. This morning I ran the car as you suggested and was absolutely amazed how smooth it ran right after. Thank you for posting such helpful video and god bless.
Replaced my battery a few months ago. Mine wasn’t stalling, but it was lagging, especially when going up hill.. I had to go from automatic to manually shifting. This has made a huge difference! I was very skeptical. Glad I didn’t take it to the shop.
Great tip - thanks. I have just had the battery out of my sons 05 plate Mazda 3 to charge it up as it's been sat for a while - put the battery back in and it ran rough on idle - done what you suggest and it's fine now. Steve
Mine mazda didn't had stalling, but was rough and also loud. As battery was replaced and before it was fine I thought its worth a try and it do the trick! Thanks for making me and my mazda happy again xD
Thank you for this! Replaced the spark plugs, ignition coils, and battery in my 2010 Mazda3 yesterday, and couldn't figure out why it was still running rough. I was afraid I'd messed something up! But after idling 20 min with nothing on and another 15 with the A/C on, it cleared right up.
Man I just tried that,jesus!! Thanks so much!!!i call a few mecanic friends and they had no idea what was going on!!! I really appreciate it,i have a mazda 3 06
Thank you so much , we just had a new battery installed and the car them started stalling and idling very rough. A mechanic looked at the car and could not work out what the problem was. We have now tried exactly what you recommended and the car is now running and idling like clockwork as it was before the new battery. Very happy and great advice! :)
Thank you for your sound advice... my car was idling rough, running rough, and showing the yellow engine warning light which was flashing. The manual said only that it might be an electrical or emissions system problem and advised 'go to your Mazda dealer'. At which point I felt sorry for my cheque book. I had not recently had a battery change - last time was maybe a year ago - so I wasn't convinced that was the issue (why hadn't it happened earlier?) but, since I had nothing to lose, I tried your suggestion, started the car and sat there for 20 minutes as engine went bumpety-bump at low idle - it went through a clackety-clackety stage (as if the timing chain was loose) but after 20 minutes, as suggested, I turned on the air con full blast. After 7 minutes of that, the engine tone smoothed out for 30 seconds, before going back to a bumpey-bump tone for a while. After 15 minutes of air con running, the tone smoothed out. It was as if the computer was trying out settings. Took the car for a run. Now it runs fine. Exactly as you said. Brilliant... !!!
Very thanks my friend work like a charm, but my failure was when i remove the whole throttle control to clean it! I think its the same as disconnecting the battery when you just unplugged the throttle and put it back!
This started happening to me after my battery died in my 2006 Mazda 5. Tried this and now it works perfectly! Thank you so much. I was gonna go through the gamut of "possible fixes," so you saved me many hours and dollars, I'm sure. Thank you!
Thank you! Solved my problem thoroughly. I had replaced my battery in my 2004 Mazda 3 over the weekend, started it up and it ran fine. Did not drive it around, though. So, come Monday morning I start off for work and the car kept stalling every time I came to a stop. Went back home, parked the Mazda, and drove another vehicle to work. I got back home after work and immediately searched on UA-cam for Mazda 3 stalling and up popped your video. Thank you, sir, for taking the time to make this video. You have saved me much time and money with this quick fix. I thought I would have to replace the fuel pump or just take it to a dealer and spend a fortune. You are right, this problem should be a recall or at least letters sent to owners advising them how to correct the problem.
Trying this trick on my Mazda6 2006 and it worked again! Now my car rides like a new. It feels it has more power now. Just do it exactly as he telling - 20 min with ventilation OFF, then 15 min with ventilation ON and enjoy the first ride!
This saved me from buying a new car . These instructions were on point. It resolved my hesitation and stalling. It even made my check engine light go away. perfect. The car drives like new. Thank you.
Thanks sorted my Mazda MX5 out, never thought just to run the car for 20min then turn air conditioning on then run for a further 15 min would sort it out. Thanks for this advice. 👍
Hey man, I just happened to have the exact same make, model and problem (recently changed battery and everything). I did exactly what you said and after a little driving, it's idling beautifully. From the bottom of my heart, thank you and keep doing what you're doing.
I had rough idle with stall, cleaning the throttle body around the valve area. Fixed the problem. Engine mounts on this car go bad all the time. I would replace to make less noisy
Had this issue this morning on a UK-spec Mazda3 Sport, as the 2l is over here. No stalling but a bouncing idle that would settle if you blipped the throttle. Just what I needed before its MoT test (UK annual inspection). Once I was home, had a cup of tea and my mood had improved I reasoned it had to be something to do with my replacing the battery two days ago, although it had seemed fine on a short journey yesterday. Likely candidate was a throttle relearn issue although I've replaced the battery twice before and disconnected it a few more times with nothing like this afterwards. A quick Google and found the answer, including this video. Many thanks.
Found Mazda TSB 01-007/09 on throttle body cleaning that has the official reset procedure: Ignition on for 1 minute, then off for a minute Start the engine and let it run until it reaches 90C or the cooling fan starts Turn off all electrical loads and A/C then let it idle for five minutes Worked a treat and seems to have sharpened the initial throttle response too. Now I'll clean the TB and do it all over again.
Thanks, this will probably save me a lot of trouble. I'm already cleaning the MAF sensor and hopefully I can get to the EGR valve, but I never thought about this.
Yeah, this almost gave me an aneurysm. My car had been sitting for a month at the paint shop after a little crash. I picked it up, it ran fine initially but as soon as it had to idle in the City at the red lights it started dying I was thinking this was due to additional damage from the crash or maybe the guy who worked on it had done something foul to it, and mentally I was in a dark place at the moment. Luckily you were right and it was nothing serious. Took it out for another spin and it "fixed" itself lol.
Will this procedure work if I change my intake to cold air intake with a pod filter? Will it learn the new air/fuel mixture. I know these have idle issues and put up the CEL light if you just add a CAI otherwise.
I would also recommend cleaning your mass air flow (MAF) sensor if you've never done it in your car's history. If it was really dirty, your car's computer will now be able to get proper oxygen readings again, which will make it run a lot better.
@@tlrmd4you Well, you will need to locate the sensor. It's a small rectangular thing held in by two screws. Unclip the electrical, unscrew and remove the sensor. Spray the filaments inside the sensor with a MAF cleaner. Put back together. (Google "mazda cleaning MAF" for pictures.)
Thank you for taking the time to post this video. I replaced my wife's battery in her 08 Mazda, and she was telling me it was was wanting to stall on the freeway. Found this video, tried it, and worked like a charm. Thank you again.
***** i just change today the cabin filter to my mazda3, so i have unpluged the battery. When i was done i started the car and in the first STOP the engine got stall with CEL light, then i started the engine again and the CEL light got off. Is this normal?
***** I did not follow your procedure that was my mistake i am sure..., i was asking you for if disconecting the battery makes CEL comes and stalls, or just stalls? you did not say anything about CEL in the video. Because i had CEL + Stalls in stops
Thanks for sharing. First code p0578 - shift solenoid B malfunction. I changed the TCM first and it solved the problem but I ended up with another code P0506, likely due to disconnecting the battery. I followed your advice and bingo, it worked!
For what it's worth, this also seems to work on the Mazda 6. My 2003 Mazda 6 has had a rough idle since I had someone replace my front struts (don't know why they would have disconnected the battery, but I didn't have the tools to do the job myself anyway). Took it back, they mentioned a throttle body cleaning - made it worse! It wouldn't stall anymore, but I would get random pulses of extra throttle, and it idled high (probably because it was now cleaner). Found this video, and a similar article on a site called Auto Service Professional (goo.gl/Wto03) and decided I had nothing to loose. Bazinga! Seems my idle is fixed. At least, it no longer idles high and pulses power. When it was having a rough and low idle, it would only have the problem up until the engine warmed up, then it would work fine, but the next morning it would have the problem again. So, I need to check again in the morning, but - fingers crossed! - I think this may have done the trick. Additional info: I decided that it would be wise to start from scratch, so to speak, so when I performed this procedure, I started by disconnecting my battery, pumping the brake pedal, waiting about 5 minutes, then pumping the brake pedal again for good measure. Then I turned on the car and followed these instructions. Why mess with bad programming, and not let it start anew? That's what I figured. Thanks!
You, my friend, helped me a lot! Just replaced my battery and had the car running terribly. Just did your trick in 5 degree weather and she purrs like new. No more idle dropping when I'm on the highway and let off the gas.No more almost staling/ stalling at stop signs & lights. Thank you!
The truth is there's a procedure to reset the CPU (central processing unit) other than just letting the engine idle. So if the idling shown in this video didn't work for you, try this instead: 1. Turn ignition on (not the engine, just the ignition) for one minute. You'll see the check engine light blink. 2. Turn ignition off and wait one minute. 3. Start engine and let it idle for 5 minutes or so until it reaches normal operating temperatures. If the problem is still there, before taking it to a mechanic, try cleaning the mass air flow sensor with mass air flow sensor cleaner. You can do it yourself in about 5 minutes and a can of cleaner sells for about $7 or so. The MAF sensor is located between the air filter and the throttle body and is held in place by two screws.
Yapp mine has to be changed so I'll changed gunnar have to disconnect the negative when I put it back on I'll also let it idle I'll do what this guy suggested
Hello, I just wanted to say thank you for this video. I have been having this issue with my Mazda 5 and I just saved money for new battery. I am trying this as I type this. I hope it works. But either outcome I am thankful anyways to have more honest knowledge about my only car. Thanks again.
This was an awesome fix!! I was concerned about the engine hesitating from a stop into first gear, so ran the car as described. Not only did this fix the hesitation that I was noticing, but it fixed how my car slides through the gears. I was so used to the jumping and bumping, that I didn't even notice that anymore. Now, there is no hesitation, and my car slides through the gears like when she was brand new. Don't know how you knew about this little trick, but I am SO glad that you shared it! THANKS!!!!
Hi there..my sons car mazda 3 2007 2.3 is misfiring or hesitation during acceleration especially uphill. Idle is good. No check engine light. New iridium spark plugs n oem ignition coil. Any idea? Thanx for feedback.
a miss with no check engine light?? thats not normal unless its a fuel problem like a bad fuel pump or plugged fuel filter - let me know how it works out Mel - cheers and good luck
carquestions hi there thnx for reply. I want to check the fuel pressure but i cannot locate the shaeder nozzle valve to put fuel pressure gauge in the engine cab. Is it in the fuel pump? Thnx again.
Had similar issue. Was a faulting (but not faulty) upper o2 sensor. You can confirm by disconnecting the sensor and test drive. I couldn't find a replacement, so removed and cleaned and then reset ECU (as per this video). I had no cec or other symptoms. Maybe your issue is similar?
@@carquestions I still own my 2006 Mazda 3 and had the battery issues and my car acting like it was on crack. I'm not a mechanic my car was running rough and the obd reader showed my 02 sensor upstream bank 1 at a very very week read. I went bk to Firestone and they replaced it (bk in June 2017 they had worked on it) so another new one installed. I used my OBD reader at home and still no read. Could my main CPU be bad? I cleaned the mass air flow sensor. Why won't my computer read the new sensor??
It worked! I need to reset the battery one more time, but I fixed it!! And mine is a 2011. Apparently this works on several model cars(I.e. Volkswagen).
What if you need a new AC compressor? I encountered the same problem after Goodyear replaced my battery in my 2008 Mazda 3. Before that as long as I didn't run the AC idling wasn't a problem. You're actually spot on but if I try to run the AC for very long it will stall out.
I have the same issue, 06 Mazda 3 (5 speed) on the freeway this past weekend and I don't really use the AC cuz i don't wanna put that stress on my engine, but I turned it on for a good maybe 60 mile drive roundtrip at my son's request cuz it was too hot for him. It drove fine, no problems. We got back home, hung out for like 10 mins and then I had to drive for like another 30 mins but I didn't use the AC this time cuz my son wasn't with me. As I was driving in the fast lane, my car started to lose power, like no acceleration. I was in the fast lane and my car's speed was going down steadily and i would press the gas and it would like lunge fwd but still wouldn't gain speed. I quickly started to change lanes to make my way to the right shoulder. Had the hazards on, turned the car off. Let it sit for a bit. Turned it back on and it turned on fine. Idle was under 1K. I attempted to pick up speed and get back on the freeway but it wouldn't go faster than around 25mph so there I go driving on the shoulder for like a mile to the next exit going about 25mph. When I got to the light, I kept my foot on the gas to keep the idle up over 1K until the light turned green. I pulled forward and switching gears got to 4th no problem at all accelerating. At this point I had turned off my stereo and was focused on making it to the next gas station. (this car did the same thing to me while driving back from like a 1 hour long drive with the AC on cuz i had kids with me, my car died on me as soon as I got to the light on the off ramp exit to my town) Since that incident, I took it to an actual shop, there was no codes but they did some diagnostics and said that the fuel pump needed to be replaced. I had my mechanic do it. I still had that rough idle though and the car was running rough sometimes. my mechanic couldn't find out the issue, at this point, the check engine light would come on here and there but it would turn off on it's own. Eventually I took it to the Mazda dealer and they said it needed a purge valve replacement, O2 sensor upstream replaced, and I think one other thing. I had them all replaced. I even cleaned out the MAF sensor. My car was driving fine since then until this past weekend when I used the AC in my car.....this makes so much sense to me though. I'm going to try to have my car relearn the idle first and see if that helps cuz i have replaced the battery about twice since i've owned my car but I never had it relearn the idle.
Whenever you change a battery , you should use a Car Memory Data Saver which allows you to connect 12 V from another separate battery or use a jump start battery pack plugged on the battery cables. So even though you disconnect the old battery , the backup battery keeps supplying 12 V to the car and thus the cars computer keeps its settings. Also the radio will keep all your favorite setting/stations. If your battery completely dies and you have to change it , then this procedure is a must do.
I own a 2006 Mazda 3 2.3L 5 speed. The engine light came on this past weekend after my car stalling out on the freeway (possibly related to using the AC prior to that trip). I didn't have the AC on when my car started stalling and it would not accelerate, it was just losing speed until I had to pull over. Felt like the car was running out of gas. I made it to a gas station. Car started up fine and felt fine to drive. Right before I got back on the freeway, engine light came on. I quickly diverted and went to nearest Autozone to get it scanned and it spit out P2187 and P2177. The employee said i had to replace the evap purge valve (which I had just replaced it less than a year ago). The car didn't give me any issues on the drive home or since then, the code disappeared on it's own. I'm still gonna have my car relearn the idle though tomorrow and i'll post my results. Thank you for the video.
My brother and I both have a Mazda 3, 2010 and 2008 respectively. This solved both of our rough idle issues. This is after both of us changing our upstream O2 sensors, which did not solve the issue. Our cars idle as smoothly as they did when they were new after doing this. Why is this not in the manual!
Thanks so much I thought the ECM reset adjusts by normal driving for 20-30 mins. I didn't know it had to idle to relearn fuel map etc. And the AC trick too. Thanks from B.C. :D
I just had my 2006 Mazda 5 No. 4 transmission mount changed out by the dealer. Knowing that they will have to disconnect the battery due to its location, I was confident that they would save all memory settings particularly the PCM/ECM. To my dismay, after I picked it up, the radio settings were gone, odometer was back to zero and worst, engine stalled/died at stops. Took it back to Cavalier Mazda (Chesapeake, VA) and from the mechanic to the service manager, all they told me is that they don't have the tool to save memory settings. What a BS. During the time I was arguing with the service manager, the mechanic must have done what you just described or uploaded something to the PCM/ECU since everything was back to normal after I tested it again. Never will I return to this Mazda dealership for service.
This is a super saver for me. It worked on my 2005 Mazda 3 2.0L. I was skeptical. But like he said, what can hurt? So 20 mins and then 15 mins later. I was fine! AFTER MONTHs of near stalls. Today I was going to do a throttle body cleaning. Thanks man for saving me all that work and hassle. WARNING: if you don't have a working AC...uh. Not sure if this trick will work on your car. Perhaps running heat full blast would be the same? Not sure. But if your fan is broken and you can't run it at full blast. Then this trick may not be one you can try. Best of luck and thanks again Carquestion Dude!!
This video was a big help. After replacing my battery and alternator in a 2008 Mazda 3 2.0L automatic, was having some issued when stopped/braked with rough idle. Did this twice, improved. Also cleaned the throttle body (119k miles on this car) and did the Idle relearn again. My 08 now purrs like a kitten at P/N idle, and also at D/stopped idle. Thank you CarQuestions for this valuable tip/video.
I seen this video before and I tried this method and I think it does work. I changed my battery again today September 23, 2018 and I'm doing this again. To make this short: I did 2 things that people said to do with these cars to be on the safe side. Turn the ignition key but not turn the car on, wait about 2 minutes, then turn it back off. Start the car on and do the 20 minute idle thing and 15 minute with AC full blast. For these cars there is also another trick to it. If your AC starts blowing hot air while idle or on a stop and maybe turns off. Chances are that your throttle body might be dirty. Before you take your car to a mechanic and spend $120 on a diagnosis, clean the TB first. My 2008 Mazda did this. I went into a shop and told me i needed to replace, compressor, AC hoses, condensor. $3000 for the job. Called my dad all down and disappointed, he said ask me. What is the car doing? I said, AC blows hot air while idle or stop and it comes back cold while driving. Turns off sometimes. He said, go to Wal-Mart and buy a throttle body cleaner and bring it. He clean the TB and surely after that the mazda ran like new. If the TB is dirty it does this to your AC and engine. NOTE: after cleaning TB, turn ignition key on( don't turn the car on) for like 2 minutes, then turn it to the off position for 1 minute and then start the car and drive it. When my car starts doing this problem I just clean the TB. You can also change the TB gasket which I'm going to do soon. My dad said it's the TB gasket that needs to be change.
Incredible! One key addition: to tell the computer to start the relearn idle procedure : 1. Turn the key ignition to where the dash lights are on (but engine off) for one minute 2. turn key to off position and leave for 1 minute. 3. Now do what the video says, run the idle with no a/c or load for 20 minutes, then add a/c and idle for 15 min I did the 20 minutes and wasn't getting it to relearn, then I read a forum, did what I wrote above and worked great after the idle time. It's possible that you would pay a mechanic to do any number of fixes/part changes, and in addition to that the mechanic would do this procedure for relearning idle at the end of the fix. When in reality, maybe all that was needed was this idle procedure in the video. This is the best thing to start with before replacing anything as carquestions has so brilliantly pointed out.
My 2015 Mazda 2 is doing this, but I did not replace the original battery yet. Do you know what I can do to resolve this issue? Should I disconnect the battery and reconnect it? What is the process? Thank you!
Replaced my 2008 Mazda 3 battery at Sam's this morning (10/19/16) On my way home it started stalling at every stop I came to. I immediately took it back to Sam's and told them of the issue. They were nice enough but said the ONLY thing they did was take the old battery out and drop the new one in, other than that nothing else was done so they didn't know what could be causing the problem. I called my Mazda dealer to bring it in and they said there would be a $115 diagnostic charge which would be applied to any repairs. Was not happy about that so I decided to go to UA-cam and see if there were any help videos. I found this one and it described my issue exactly so I did as instructed in the video and low and behold the problem was solved. I immediately called the Mazda dealer back and cancelled my appointment. Thanks Carquestions, you saved me at least $115!!!
Great story - very lucky - my pleasure
Did check engine come on also?
not me. I just paid 300$ for the stupid flow sensor to be replaced. that's great. anyway... at least now i know what i need to do
@@carquestions Pouvez vous me donner la manipulation ? pas de traduction de votre vidéo je ne sais pas comment faire.... merci :)
Due Diligence! you did what lazy people don't do, did your own research quick and easy and saved $115 i don't even own a mazda. filing this into my brain. i Like, OLE'!
Thank you. I was stranded in the city and decided to first try UA-cam before calling a mechanic. It was absolutely the battery and now I'm home safe. You've saved me so much time and money. God bless
Glad to hear that - Cheers from Canada Jude!
Boy, oh boy. Wish I'd found your video a couple of weeks ago. Looking at other forums for 2002 Mazda Protoge 5 rough idle stalling, led me to changing coils, ignition leads, spark plugs, MAF, EGR valve, cleaning throttle body etc, etc. All this after my battery died and I changed it. I just followed your video to the letter, and problem solved. Now idles well, with no rough spots or stalling whatsoever. thank You, thank you, thank you. You just saved me starting to look at fuel injectors and spending more money.. :-)
But what if its been months after the new battery...do i take it out and put it back?
I also have a protege5 and my car shuts off completely at idle I hope this works for me lol
@@friendstuff8567 did it work?
@@anteroserrano4252 no it didn’t :/
This guy seems to be the only guy on the planet who knows whats up about mazda 3 rough idle, this works
this is typical with a lot of electrically actuated throttle bodies where a bit of dirt will cause a bit of rough idle. also disconnecting a battery on certain cars will cause it to forget how to drive. it forgets its parameters how much fuel to how much advanced timing etc. thats why just letting it idle jogs its memory
Adam Lotte mine has 175k on it and I didn't see this problem but mine is a stick
@@ras4782 mine is stick and its doing it
Push back throttle body butterfly and wipe it out with some carby cleaner. Does not need to be perfect but it worked for me. I had stalling gearbox down shift issues and this fixed all of that.
My car is doing EXACTLY THIS RIGHT NOW. We took the cables off the terminals to clean the battery posts and when we put it back together it's been stalling and idling really low, its died on me several times when I stopped at a red light or stop sign.. I've looked up what could cause this and this makes perfect sense!
You sir, deserve a medal! My 2007 Mazda 5 was almost dying at stop lights/stop signs after changing the battery. I did what you showed on this video and now the problem is gone! Thanks for posting this:)
Anytime Brian - cheers!
Thank you, this worked great on our 2005 Mazda 3i. It does, however, only work if the procedure is done right after reconnecting the battery. At first, we had already driven the car for a few days after putting in a new battery, wondering why it always stalled when stopping and idling, when I came across this tip and tried it. The car was still stalling afterwards, so I disconnected the battery again and then followed the directions in the video right after reconnecting it and now the car runs like a charm. Great tip, saved us spending a bunch at the garage.
Excellent - you saved yourself hundreds
Was very pleasantly surprised that this fixed the rough idle on my 2005 Mazda 3. After replacing my battery, I was having issues with the RPM bouncing between 500-1200 and almost stalling when I would come to a stop. This resolved the problem perfectly, runs just like it did before. Thank you!
Didn't believe it myself the first time I did it - but it does definitely work - Cheers!
Trying this now on my 2007 Mazda 3 :)
BRILLIANT.
2009 mazda3 SP25. My car was running fine I disconnected my battery to reset Bluetooth as connecting to it let was giving me issues when I Reconnected the battery fixed my Bluetooth but my car engine ran terribly. Watched this guys video and did EXACTLY what he said. BAM car runs like a dream again !!!
Give this guy an award !
Thanks Gary - cheers - glad it worked out
You sir are a gentleman and a scholar. You just saved me a ton of money. I replaced the battery on my 08 Mazda 3 this morning and had this issue.
And you sir are very welcome - anytime Josh
I have a 2007 CX7 my wife took to mechanic. changed plugs and they fouled out he tried to say it was out of time . I called Mazda found out unless you use Mazda Factory plugs the aftermarkets are not long enough. got it started and it ran like crap. It sat without a battery for 2 months. I've went thru everything until i saw your article. It WORKED YOU ARE A GODSEND. I've been Working on this for a week and now it runs awesome. Thank YOU
That's what my mom used to tell me - thanks and glad it worked out for you
Just bought a car and changed the transmission on then it was shaky after the car was fixed, saw this video drives perfect after doing this . . . Thank you
Anytime Lanny - cheers!
Knowledgeable host. + 1 cool guy points for the Canadian tuxedo 😂
Every day
you really saved a lot of money and big headake, it looks fixed after 20 mint + 15 mint with AC on , it didn't stop in traffic lights now. thank you so much. and God bless you! for your great community help.
Anytime Nilan anytime
Excuse my language, but after watching this video, I am now out of my Fokang Mind when it comes to all the bullshit electronics on newer cars and how auto manufacturers will design cars to take our money since none of us would EVER consider to allow our cars to IDLE for an HOUR in order for it to "re-learn" the idle! An hour at Mazda, is what I assume is required for this SIMPLE screw job for how much? $120 Thanks! Bitches...
Got a new battery and had these problems the moment I drove away.
Fluttering noise then it started to shake. Next drive it stalled ... not every drive
but felt like it would.
I did everything you said .... 4 days ago .... instant fix ... I even waited and did
a few test drives.
Thank you so very much 🥲🤗 was about to book it into the mechanics.
I am one very grateful woman.👍
very glad to hear that - Cheers from Canada!
Thank you so much! I have been going crazy trying to figure out what is wrong with our vehicle and this is exactly what is going on! Your the best!
Anytime Rick
Still relevant in 2021. Bought a 2008 Mazda 3 for my daughters first car. With doing bits and pieces, I had to disconnect battery and had this exact stalling and rough idle issue afterwards. Persevered for a couple of days before I stalled the car going around a corner. Found this video and problem solved. This must have saved viewers a combined tens of thousands of dollars/pounds/euros over the years. Many thanks.
Interesting comment Simon thanks - I too wonder how much time/money has been saved?
I have a Mazda 3 2007 and last year I had been having similar symptoms. My car would have rough idles or runs roughly with stereo resets, steering stiffened and even few times stalling for three or four seconds at low speed (1st or 2nd Gear). There was engine indicator, and as per local mechanic the codes were related to exhaust emission sensor and some radiator sensor, which shouldn't cause rough idling... Therefore, he changed spark plugs. After driving for two or three days, problem started reappearing. Then I used a bottle of PEA detergent for fuel system cleaning. Frequency of problem reduced for several days, but started coming back. Once I had a dead stall for few minutes, where nothing would come up, however after several minute, I started the car and it worked.
Then I came across your procedure below, tried and it worked. so far, I have driven over 1000km in Montreal extreme winters, and I didn't see any issue and the engine idle position seems okay.
Thanks a lot for this hack. This procedure should be in Mazda manual.
Anytime Muhammad!
My car won't idle it's very frustrating when they say leave it in the driveway to idle for 20 minutes I'm trying to reset the idle my car will not idle how can I leave it in the driveway idling for 20 minutes if I'm trying to reset the idle it does not idle it goes dead
Replaced my 2006 Mazda 3 battery by AAA a month ago, it started stalling at almost every stop I came to. I didn't realize they are related until watched your video, I start the car and let it idle for 20 minutes and then AC 10 minutes. Now the problem is gone. Thanks!
This vid is relevant till TODAY. Changed my battery and this was the EXACT problem I faced. Thank you so much for the information!
Thank you for this information! My husband removed the cable on the battery to reset the engine light. That worked but then the car was stalling every time at the same distance from my house. I did exactly what was instructed here and just like that the problem is fixed. Great advise!
Well done Eileen - bravo! - but the light stored a DTC trouble code that might come back - if it does you need to retrieve and record - Cheers from Canada!
Retrieve and record ? Curious
Why can't this guy be my neighbor!
Small town near Brantford Ontario - has everything you need and close to Home Depot and Blowes
this worked on my 2010 mazda 3 after the car battery died. engine light came on indicating a problem with the throttle body. could not rev passed 5000 rpms. there was rough idling. i ran the car for 30 minutes idling, turned a/c on and ran for another 15 minutes. turned the car off and when i started it back up, engine light off and idling was smoother. have not tested RPMs yet.
thanks a million!
That's what I want to hear - well done Asad
Oh wow, I am going to try this, my check engine light is on and I have to get it smogged!! It has to do with the altitude or something they said on the check engine light...thank you!!
I am very much compelled to write this message. My 2007 Mazda 3 has been idling rough for months despite cleaning the injectors and throttle body and was prepared to send it to the shop to get it fixed; Then I bump into your video by accident and was extremely skeptical at first, but seeing hundreds of positive comments and decided to give it a try. This morning I ran the car as you suggested and was absolutely amazed how smooth it ran right after. Thank you for posting such helpful video and god bless.
Anytime Roger - (and yes this is a valid technical solution) thorough research pays off - Cheers from Canada!
Replaced my battery a few months ago. Mine wasn’t stalling, but it was lagging, especially when going up hill.. I had to go from automatic to manually shifting. This has made a huge difference! I was very skeptical. Glad I didn’t take it to the shop.
Great tip - thanks.
I have just had the battery out of my sons 05 plate Mazda 3 to charge it up as it's been sat for a while - put the battery back in and it ran rough on idle - done what you suggest and it's fine now.
Steve
Excellent result - keep using YT to fix stuff Steve
As a tech I was really skeptical about this because I’ve never heard of this before in my life and by the gods ….thank you
Anytime Brandon - cheers from Canada!
Thanks!
Worked right perfect on my 2005 mazda 6, which I just changed my alternator 2 days ago
A weight out of my shoulders!
Mine mazda didn't had stalling, but was rough and also loud. As battery was replaced and before it was fine I thought its worth a try and it do the trick! Thanks for making me and my mazda happy again xD
Anytime Jagged
Wow this guy is a magician on the down low. Look how he makes the truck disappear behind him at 00:33 sec. Into the video. Amazing!!!
This its by far the best thing to get your idle back to normal. You most have stocks in Mazda but it does work.
I have a 2002 Mazda 6 and this saved me soo much trouble!
And a whole lot of money repair scams - anytime Jemma
Worked like a charm. I ran it idle for 20 minutes and then turned on the fan (No AC) for 15 minutes.
excellent
Thank you for this! Replaced the spark plugs, ignition coils, and battery in my 2010 Mazda3 yesterday, and couldn't figure out why it was still running rough. I was afraid I'd messed something up! But after idling 20 min with nothing on and another 15 with the A/C on, it cleared right up.
No way it's that easy?!
@@heiroot , yes I can confirm that !
Man I just tried that,jesus!! Thanks so much!!!i call a few mecanic friends and they had no idea what was going on!!! I really appreciate it,i have a mazda 3 06
+Jose Medrano Glad it helped
Thank you so much , we just had a new battery installed and the car them started stalling and idling very rough. A mechanic looked at the car and could not work out what the problem was. We have now tried exactly what you recommended and the car is now running and idling like clockwork as it was before the new battery. Very happy and great advice! :)
Anytime Chris - good to hear you didn't spend hundreds more on tune ups etc. Cheers!
Thank you for your sound advice... my car was idling rough, running rough, and showing the yellow engine warning light which was flashing. The manual said only that it might be an electrical or emissions system problem and advised 'go to your Mazda dealer'. At which point I felt sorry for my cheque book. I had not recently had a battery change - last time was maybe a year ago - so I wasn't convinced that was the issue (why hadn't it happened earlier?) but, since I had nothing to lose, I tried your suggestion, started the car and sat there for 20 minutes as engine went bumpety-bump at low idle - it went through a clackety-clackety stage (as if the timing chain was loose) but after 20 minutes, as suggested, I turned on the air con full blast. After 7 minutes of that, the engine tone smoothed out for 30 seconds, before going back to a bumpey-bump tone for a while. After 15 minutes of air con running, the tone smoothed out. It was as if the computer was trying out settings. Took the car for a run. Now it runs fine. Exactly as you said. Brilliant... !!!
Iam well pleased David - and well done btw - Cheers!
I cant thank you enough, this worked perfectly. I'm so happy, I was worried this was going to cost alot of money to fix
Did this fix last tho?
Very thanks my friend work like a charm, but my failure was when i remove the whole throttle control to clean it! I think its the same as disconnecting the battery when you just unplugged the throttle and put it back!
This started happening to me after my battery died in my 2006 Mazda 5. Tried this and now it works perfectly! Thank you so much. I was gonna go through the gamut of "possible fixes," so you saved me many hours and dollars, I'm sure. Thank you!
Would this hold true on 2003 protege?Or if the battery is getting weak would this cause a rough idle?
Definitely - try a new battery with clean connections and after it's installed try the procedure in the video - you can't hurt it doing this
Just tried this on my 2012 Mazda 6 and it worked perfectly (so far anyway).
Thank you! Solved my problem thoroughly. I had replaced my battery in my 2004 Mazda 3 over the weekend, started it up and it ran fine. Did not drive it around, though. So, come Monday morning I start off for work and the car kept stalling every time I came to a stop. Went back home, parked the Mazda, and drove another vehicle to work. I got back home after work and immediately searched on UA-cam for Mazda 3 stalling and up popped your video. Thank you, sir, for taking the time to make this video. You have saved me much time and money with this quick fix. I thought I would have to replace the fuel pump or just take it to a dealer and spend a fortune. You are right, this problem should be a recall or at least letters sent to owners advising them how to correct the problem.
Anytime Ben
Trying this trick on my Mazda6 2006 and it worked again! Now my car rides like a new. It feels it has more power now. Just do it exactly as he telling - 20 min with ventilation OFF, then 15 min with ventilation ON and enjoy the first ride!
Glad to hear it helped Ronalds!
If you have rough idle or "hunting idle" on a Mazda3 the fix is to clean the throttle body. 99.99% of the time.
Good advice thanks
This guy is legitski's .. totally works definitely good to clean the throttle body while your at it..🔥🔥🔥 we need more car hacks for this guy's❤️
Thanks LJOSV - Cheers from Canada!
This saved me from buying a new car . These instructions were on point. It resolved my hesitation and stalling. It even made my check engine light go away. perfect. The car drives like new. Thank you.
Thanks sorted my Mazda MX5 out, never thought just to run the car for 20min then turn air conditioning on then run for a further 15 min would sort it out. Thanks for this advice. 👍
I didn't believe it either -- but its true eh?
Hey man, I just happened to have the exact same make, model and problem (recently changed battery and everything). I did exactly what you said and after a little driving, it's idling beautifully. From the bottom of my heart, thank you and keep doing what you're doing.
Anytime Geoffrey - glad to help
I had rough idle with stall, cleaning the throttle body around the valve area. Fixed the problem. Engine mounts on this car go bad all the time. I would replace to make less noisy
Good advice
man i wouldve blown so much money trying to get this fixed, thank you!!
A lot of people have blown hundreds Andrew - thanks and Cheers from Canada!
Had this issue this morning on a UK-spec Mazda3 Sport, as the 2l is over here. No stalling but a bouncing idle that would settle if you blipped the throttle. Just what I needed before its MoT test (UK annual inspection).
Once I was home, had a cup of tea and my mood had improved I reasoned it had to be something to do with my replacing the battery two days ago, although it had seemed fine on a short journey yesterday. Likely candidate was a throttle relearn issue although I've replaced the battery twice before and disconnected it a few more times with nothing like this afterwards.
A quick Google and found the answer, including this video.
Many thanks.
Anytime Graham - cheers from the colony!
Found Mazda TSB 01-007/09 on throttle body cleaning that has the official reset procedure:
Ignition on for 1 minute, then off for a minute
Start the engine and let it run until it reaches 90C or the cooling fan starts
Turn off all electrical loads and A/C then let it idle for five minutes
Worked a treat and seems to have sharpened the initial throttle response too. Now I'll clean the TB and do it all over again.
Thanks, this will probably save me a lot of trouble. I'm already cleaning the MAF sensor and hopefully I can get to the EGR valve, but I never thought about this.
Try it Richard and let me know how it worked for you - cheers!
You saved my life.. Thanks 🙏..you are a genius...you deserved a Medal for this...💯💯
Glad to help AntiBio - Cheers from Canada!
Yeah, this almost gave me an aneurysm. My car had been sitting for a month at the paint shop after a little crash. I picked it up, it ran fine initially but as soon as it had to idle in the City at the red lights it started dying
I was thinking this was due to additional damage from the crash or maybe the guy who worked on it had done something foul to it, and mentally I was in a dark place at the moment.
Luckily you were right and it was nothing serious. Took it out for another spin and it "fixed" itself lol.
Glad it worked Miro - you need to do it every time the battery is disconnected
Thank you my Ontarian I'm from Woodstock ,Ontario it works IT WORKS!!! my 2010 cx-7 stopped surging
Good to hear Acura - all the best!
Man, you saved me, it was exactly the case on my Mazda 626 2001 European model. Thank you a lot !
+stanolauko No problem - tell your friends about my channel
95% PEOPLE Out of 10,000 Said That the Mechanics ALL over Charged them a few times...This dude isn't a crook like most Mechanics and Lawyers
Being an auto teacher gives you the ability to stay independent and conflict of interest free - something I've always liked
Will this procedure work if I change my intake to cold air intake with a pod filter? Will it learn the new air/fuel mixture. I know these have idle issues and put up the CEL light if you just add a CAI otherwise.
It should - try it - won't hurt anything
Worked perfect for my Mazda Cx7 2008! Thank you my friend!
Anytime Andres Valencia - tell others about the carquestions channel if you would please
I would also recommend cleaning your mass air flow (MAF) sensor if you've never done it in your car's history. If it was really dirty, your car's computer will now be able to get proper oxygen readings again, which will make it run a lot better.
Thanks CC good advice
Dont know how to do that???
@@tlrmd4you Well, you will need to locate the sensor. It's a small rectangular thing held in by two screws. Unclip the electrical, unscrew and remove the sensor. Spray the filaments inside the sensor with a MAF cleaner. Put back together. (Google "mazda cleaning MAF" for pictures.)
Thank you so much!!!
They have a MAP sensor
You sir are a freaking genius! You just saved me tons! Going to do this tomorrow! And yes, I JUST changed my battery!
So it worked! Did it today exactly as you said and viola! Thanks!!!
Thank you for taking the time to post this video. I replaced my wife's battery in her 08 Mazda, and she was telling me it was was wanting to stall on the freeway. Found this video, tried it, and worked like a charm. Thank you again.
Anytime Pat - glad to help
This dude knows what's up.
Is Your Mazda Behaving Badly? Rough running, Stalling ... then try this trick to fix it before bringing it in to the mechanic
Would this fix also apply to my 2011?
Don't know for sure but trying it won't hurt anything
***** i just change today the cabin filter to my mazda3, so i have unpluged the battery.
When i was done i started the car and in the first STOP the engine got stall with CEL light, then i started the engine again and the CEL light got off.
Is this normal?
No - you did not need to disconnect the battery to change the cabin filter - re-do the procedure but use longer wait times
***** I did not follow your procedure that was my mistake i am sure..., i was asking you for if disconecting the battery makes CEL comes and stalls, or just stalls? you did not say anything about CEL in the video.
Because i had CEL + Stalls in stops
Excellent. Your presentation is A1 at 1081 and you speak so clear. Thanks heap.
Anytime Nut3 - Cheers from Canada!
What if my ac doesnt work? How will I reset this?
Just turn it on anyways - the computer doesn't know if its working just that you turned it on
Thanks for sharing. First code p0578 - shift solenoid B malfunction. I changed the TCM first and it solved the problem but I ended up with another code P0506, likely due to disconnecting the battery. I followed your advice and bingo, it worked!
Love that result Martin! - Cheers from Canada!
For what it's worth, this also seems to work on the Mazda 6.
My 2003 Mazda 6 has had a rough idle since I had someone replace my front struts (don't know why they would have disconnected the battery, but I didn't have the tools to do the job myself anyway). Took it back, they mentioned a throttle body cleaning - made it worse! It wouldn't stall anymore, but I would get random pulses of extra throttle, and it idled high (probably because it was now cleaner).
Found this video, and a similar article on a site called Auto Service Professional (goo.gl/Wto03) and decided I had nothing to loose. Bazinga! Seems my idle is fixed. At least, it no longer idles high and pulses power. When it was having a rough and low idle, it would only have the problem up until the engine warmed up, then it would work fine, but the next morning it would have the problem again. So, I need to check again in the morning, but - fingers crossed! - I think this may have done the trick.
Additional info: I decided that it would be wise to start from scratch, so to speak, so when I performed this procedure, I started by disconnecting my battery, pumping the brake pedal, waiting about 5 minutes, then pumping the brake pedal again for good measure. Then I turned on the car and followed these instructions. Why mess with bad programming, and not let it start anew? That's what I figured.
Thanks!
Well done - keep fixing things yourself - always the best repair
Jeebwize So did it work the next morning? Is everything still good 2 months later?
GAM3 OVER
Yes! It worked like a charm, and continues to run normally, as it ought to. Such a simple solution to a very frustrating problem!
carquestions
Thanks again!
What was "pumping the brake pedal" for?
Thanks for the help, this worked on my mazda3! Running smooth now.
Glad to help
You, my friend, helped me a lot! Just replaced my battery and had the car running terribly. Just did your trick in 5 degree weather and she purrs like new. No more idle dropping when I'm on the highway and let off the gas.No more almost staling/ stalling at stop signs & lights. Thank you!
+Adam Reyes Glad to help - keep on fixin!
@carquestions what do you do if your ac doesnt work
just worked on my 2004 mazda 6..fixed the issue right away!
Glad to hear - way to go
The truth is there's a procedure to reset the CPU (central processing unit) other than just letting the engine idle. So if the idling shown in this video didn't work for you, try this instead:
1. Turn ignition on (not the engine, just the ignition) for one minute. You'll see the check engine light blink.
2. Turn ignition off and wait one minute.
3. Start engine and let it idle for 5 minutes or so until it reaches normal operating temperatures.
If the problem is still there, before taking it to a mechanic, try cleaning the mass air flow sensor with mass air flow sensor cleaner. You can do it yourself in about 5 minutes and a can of cleaner sells for about $7 or so. The MAF sensor is located between the air filter and the throttle body and is held in place by two screws.
Yapp mine has to be changed so I'll changed gunnar have to disconnect the negative when I put it back on I'll also let it idle I'll do what this guy suggested
I
Hello, I just wanted to say thank you for this video. I have been having this issue with my Mazda 5 and I just saved money for new battery. I am trying this as I type this. I hope it works. But either outcome I am thankful anyways to have more honest knowledge about my only car. Thanks again.
Well, I did this for my Mazda 5 it's a 2006 and it worked!!!!! Oh, I can not thank you enough. Also, new subscriber. Amazing is all I can say
Well done Dida's - feels good to do it yourself eh?
This was an awesome fix!! I was concerned about the engine hesitating from a stop into first gear, so ran the car as described. Not only did this fix the hesitation that I was noticing, but it fixed how my car slides through the gears. I was so used to the jumping and bumping, that I didn't even notice that anymore. Now, there is no hesitation, and my car slides through the gears like when she was brand new. Don't know how you knew about this little trick, but I am SO glad that you shared it! THANKS!!!!
Anytime - cheers!
Worked like a charm!!!
Runs like a champ!
Will this still work if your A/C doesn't work well? Like doesn't get very cold?
Yep it will Blaire
Unbelievable... it actually works. Wow! So thankful!
Hi there..my sons car mazda 3 2007 2.3 is misfiring or hesitation during acceleration especially uphill. Idle is good. No check engine light. New iridium spark plugs n oem ignition coil. Any idea? Thanx for feedback.
a miss with no check engine light?? thats not normal unless its a fuel problem like a bad fuel pump or plugged fuel filter - let me know how it works out Mel - cheers and good luck
carquestions hi there thnx for reply. I want to check the fuel pressure but i cannot locate the shaeder nozzle valve to put fuel pressure gauge in the engine cab. Is it in the fuel pump? Thnx again.
@@mb1636 have you found the issue? I have the same issue in mine with no codes. The issue disspaears every time I get to the shop.
@@hueyt224 Your car seems to be self aware. Destroy It!
Had similar issue. Was a faulting (but not faulty) upper o2 sensor. You can confirm by disconnecting the sensor and test drive. I couldn't find a replacement, so removed and cleaned and then reset ECU (as per this video).
I had no cec or other symptoms.
Maybe your issue is similar?
Can't believe it, it does work, the rough idle and run walk away after 35 min idle running, a good dealer would charge you less than 1000 to fix it.
Thats right Ming - you'd get a tune up, new fuel pump, new fuel filter, throttle body cleaning etc etc
Did you disconnect the battery then reconnect it? I am getting confused.
Are these comments still being monitored?
Yep - why do you ask Doug
***** I have a 2004 Mazda B2300 that's doing this nobody can find the problem . Could this be the same thing?
Started just being annoying but now won't idle at all. How do I relearn it?
by watching the video..
@@carquestions I still own my 2006 Mazda 3 and had the battery issues and my car acting like it was on crack. I'm not a mechanic my car was running rough and the obd reader showed my 02 sensor upstream bank 1 at a very very week read. I went bk to Firestone and they replaced it (bk in June 2017 they had worked on it) so another new one installed. I used my OBD reader at home and still no read. Could my main CPU be bad? I cleaned the mass air flow sensor. Why won't my computer read the new sensor??
This man is a national treasure
Thanks He - Cheers from Canada!
It worked! I need to reset the battery one more time, but I fixed it!! And mine is a 2011. Apparently this works on several model cars(I.e. Volkswagen).
Great -good to know - cheers!
thank you so much your trick fixed my idle problem!
Good to hear - cheers!
Grateful for this video right here . Thank you sir !
Hope it helped - cheers!
What if you need a new AC compressor? I encountered the same problem after Goodyear replaced my battery in my 2008 Mazda 3. Before that as long as I didn't run the AC idling wasn't a problem. You're actually spot on but if I try to run the AC for very long it will stall out.
I have the same issue, 06 Mazda 3 (5 speed) on the freeway this past weekend and I don't really use the AC cuz i don't wanna put that stress on my engine, but I turned it on for a good maybe 60 mile drive roundtrip at my son's request cuz it was too hot for him. It drove fine, no problems. We got back home, hung out for like 10 mins and then I had to drive for like another 30 mins but I didn't use the AC this time cuz my son wasn't with me. As I was driving in the fast lane, my car started to lose power, like no acceleration. I was in the fast lane and my car's speed was going down steadily and i would press the gas and it would like lunge fwd but still wouldn't gain speed. I quickly started to change lanes to make my way to the right shoulder. Had the hazards on, turned the car off. Let it sit for a bit. Turned it back on and it turned on fine. Idle was under 1K. I attempted to pick up speed and get back on the freeway but it wouldn't go faster than around 25mph so there I go driving on the shoulder for like a mile to the next exit going about 25mph. When I got to the light, I kept my foot on the gas to keep the idle up over 1K until the light turned green. I pulled forward and switching gears got to 4th no problem at all accelerating. At this point I had turned off my stereo and was focused on making it to the next gas station. (this car did the same thing to me while driving back from like a 1 hour long drive with the AC on cuz i had kids with me, my car died on me as soon as I got to the light on the off ramp exit to my town) Since that incident, I took it to an actual shop, there was no codes but they did some diagnostics and said that the fuel pump needed to be replaced. I had my mechanic do it. I still had that rough idle though and the car was running rough sometimes. my mechanic couldn't find out the issue, at this point, the check engine light would come on here and there but it would turn off on it's own. Eventually I took it to the Mazda dealer and they said it needed a purge valve replacement, O2 sensor upstream replaced, and I think one other thing. I had them all replaced. I even cleaned out the MAF sensor. My car was driving fine since then until this past weekend when I used the AC in my car.....this makes so much sense to me though. I'm going to try to have my car relearn the idle first and see if that helps cuz i have replaced the battery about twice since i've owned my car but I never had it relearn the idle.
Yeaaa thank you check engine light is gone🕺🏼🕺🏼 did iT today And its also running much fine . Thank you you are the best 🤜🏽👌🏾👌🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Love to hear that cheers!
Thank you for the clear and concise tip!
Hope it helps Kam
Whenever you change a battery , you should use a Car Memory Data Saver which allows you to connect 12 V from another separate battery or use a jump start battery pack plugged on the battery cables. So even though you disconnect the old battery , the backup battery keeps supplying 12 V to the car and thus the cars computer keeps its settings. Also the radio will keep all your favorite setting/stations. If your battery completely dies and you have to change it , then this procedure is a must do.
Good advice Rich - but many people can't afford such tools
- Cheers!
A battery booster is around $60 US
@@nrich5127 Many owners can't or won't change their own battery so buying a booster is not a question for them
@@carquestions Yep you're right - the Lord helps those who help themselves.
@@nrich5127 yep
I just replaced the battery on my 08 Mazda 3 2.0 and I had no issues whatsoever with my idle lol.
Sometimes you get lucky
I own a 2006 Mazda 3 2.3L 5 speed. The engine light came on this past weekend after my car stalling out on the freeway (possibly related to using the AC prior to that trip). I didn't have the AC on when my car started stalling and it would not accelerate, it was just losing speed until I had to pull over. Felt like the car was running out of gas. I made it to a gas station. Car started up fine and felt fine to drive. Right before I got back on the freeway, engine light came on. I quickly diverted and went to nearest Autozone to get it scanned and it spit out P2187 and P2177. The employee said i had to replace the evap purge valve (which I had just replaced it less than a year ago). The car didn't give me any issues on the drive home or since then, the code disappeared on it's own. I'm still gonna have my car relearn the idle though tomorrow and i'll post my results. Thank you for the video.
How did the evap change and idle relearn go? I have the exact same engine codes pop up.
My brother and I both have a Mazda 3, 2010 and 2008 respectively. This solved both of our rough idle issues. This is after both of us changing our upstream O2 sensors, which did not solve the issue. Our cars idle as smoothly as they did when they were new after doing this. Why is this not in the manual!
Don't know the answer to that one Derek but my guess is that they want you to take the car to the dealer for some un needed repairs
Thanks so much I thought the ECM reset adjusts by normal driving for 20-30 mins. I didn't know it had to idle to relearn fuel map etc. And the AC trick too. Thanks from B.C. :D
Thank you! This fixed my beloved 2013 Mazda3 😁
Anytime Nicole - Cheers from Canada!
I just had my 2006 Mazda 5 No. 4 transmission mount changed out by the dealer. Knowing that they will have to disconnect the battery due to its location, I was confident that they would save all memory settings particularly the PCM/ECM. To my dismay, after I picked it up, the radio settings were gone, odometer was back to zero and worst, engine stalled/died at stops. Took it back to Cavalier Mazda (Chesapeake, VA) and from the mechanic to the service manager, all they told me is that they don't have the tool to save memory settings. What a BS. During the time I was arguing with the service manager, the mechanic must have done what you just described or uploaded something to the PCM/ECU since everything was back to normal after I tested it again. Never will I return to this Mazda dealership for service.
+Sikuate “Tony” Disal Interesting story - odometer back to Zero? Wow!
+carquestions Sorry, I meant the trip meter.
This is a super saver for me. It worked on my 2005 Mazda 3 2.0L. I was skeptical. But like he said, what can hurt? So 20 mins and then 15 mins later. I was fine! AFTER MONTHs of near stalls. Today I was going to do a throttle body cleaning. Thanks man for saving me all that work and hassle. WARNING: if you don't have a working AC...uh. Not sure if this trick will work on your car. Perhaps running heat full blast would be the same? Not sure. But if your fan is broken and you can't run it at full blast. Then this trick may not be one you can try. Best of luck and thanks again Carquestion Dude!!
DarkZeta I have the same car and did it today and was so blessed it worked.
This video was a big help. After replacing my battery and alternator in a 2008 Mazda 3 2.0L automatic, was having some issued when stopped/braked with rough idle. Did this twice, improved. Also cleaned the throttle body (119k miles on this car) and did the Idle relearn again. My 08 now purrs like a kitten at P/N idle, and also at D/stopped idle. Thank you CarQuestions for this valuable tip/video.
Glad it helped you - cheers!
I have a 2007 Mazda 3 2.3 S Touring Perfect condition. Thanks you saved me 30miles of driving and wasting gas re-setting the computer.
I seen this video before and I tried this method and I think it does work. I changed my battery again today September 23, 2018 and I'm doing this again. To make this short: I did 2 things that people said to do with these cars to be on the safe side. Turn the ignition key but not turn the car on, wait about 2 minutes, then turn it back off. Start the car on and do the 20 minute idle thing and 15 minute with AC full blast. For these cars there is also another trick to it. If your AC starts blowing hot air while idle or on a stop and maybe turns off. Chances are that your throttle body might be dirty. Before you take your car to a mechanic and spend $120 on a diagnosis, clean the TB first. My 2008 Mazda did this. I went into a shop and told me i needed to replace, compressor, AC hoses, condensor. $3000 for the job. Called my dad all down and disappointed, he said ask me. What is the car doing? I said, AC blows hot air while idle or stop and it comes back cold while driving. Turns off sometimes. He said, go to Wal-Mart and buy a throttle body cleaner and bring it. He clean the TB and surely after that the mazda ran like new. If the TB is dirty it does this to your AC and engine. NOTE: after cleaning TB, turn ignition key on( don't turn the car on) for like 2 minutes, then turn it to the off position for 1 minute and then start the car and drive it. When my car starts doing this problem I just clean the TB. You can also change the TB gasket which I'm going to do soon. My dad said it's the TB gasket that needs to be change.
Cleaning a TB is what I'd do second - do the procedure as I have noted first - thanks for the comment JL
Incredible! One key addition: to tell the computer to start the relearn idle procedure :
1. Turn the key ignition to where the dash lights are on (but engine off) for one minute
2. turn key to off position and leave for 1 minute.
3. Now do what the video says, run the idle with no a/c or load for 20 minutes, then add a/c and idle for 15 min
I did the 20 minutes and wasn't getting it to relearn, then I read a forum, did what I wrote above and worked great after the idle time. It's possible that you would pay a mechanic to do any number of fixes/part changes, and in addition to that the mechanic would do this procedure for relearning idle at the end of the fix. When in reality, maybe all that was needed was this idle procedure in the video. This is the best thing to start with before replacing anything as carquestions has so brilliantly pointed out.
My 2015 Mazda 2 is doing this, but I did not replace the original battery yet. Do you know what I can do to resolve this issue? Should I disconnect the battery and reconnect it? What is the process? Thank you!