Been chasing this same issue for longer than I want to say. Even put a $500 nick williams tb on my build and the noise was still there! I’m trying this first thing tomorrow!
Ive been watching your application of the Edelbrock supercharger, I have a 2013 suburban 2500 with an L96 that I have put an E force supercharger, but Im having trouble with the tuning. What did you do with tuning
I have LS1 x max my truck has a vibration with foot on brake in gear. Do you think it could be the air / fuel setup? This is my first time doing a LS swap. It’s perfect when cold but seems like when it gets up to temp that’s when I feel vibrating in steering wheel.
@@JunkinwithJr I have a scanner but there’s no where to connect to to check for misfire. I had my hot idle set at 600, now I have it at 800 and it’s not that bad but still there. I like the sound better with the idle low. It has a stock cam. I will check my plugs and see if there is one that looks different. They only have 64 miles on them we’ll actually every thing only has 64 miles, thanks for your help
Set it to ZERO instead of 20%. It will shut off when you're cruising. Its only for idle. My issue right now is, I cannot get mine down to 4 or 5 percent. Its usually in the 30 to 40 percent at idle. I've tried the "turn the idle screw up until its out and shuts off", and it does, but then it goes rich and bogs down. 12.8 AF idle?? So, as I slowly turn the screw back, as soon as the IAC tries to kick in, it goes right back up to 40%....no matter how slow I turn the screw. This makes for a bog spot just off idle, especially when you take off very slow. I know I have something set wrong, I just don't know what that is yet. Another phone call to Holley tech.......its a long wait but they do a good job.
@@JunkinwithJr Yep, do the TPS thing every time too. Its something stupid that I'm not seeing....I'll be calling Holley monday. I've been in the classic auto restoration business for over 40 years. I know carbs and tuning all that stuff, we have a chassis dyno for all of our cars. We will put Packard's and Duesy's on it and get them running great, but this electric carb stuff is new to me. Which is why I wanted to try it. Learn something new! Its a learning curve for sure....
I have a 89 bronco and I put it on a 408 stroker and have been on the phone with Bill at Holley over and over the last week it was just a little rich when I started now it really rough at low rpm all the way up to 1250 before it levels out and is burning gas
Hey J, I didn't see the initial video and or the issue you had. My CJ5 Jeep has this Holley Sniper EFI but the issue I have is that my car will die at 35/45 minutes of driving around. It feels like something "heats" up or idles because I have to wait around 25 minutes to crank again and then i can drive around but it will die again so that's why I say its something that heats up and wont send the enough gas/power and the car dies. Everything is connected as it should and my mechanic has not find out any other issue than this system.. would you help? Calling this guys at Holley is like talking t o a wall.
Could be vapor lock. Rig up a fuel psi gauge so that you can check the psi when your problem occurs. If it reads less that 40, that's a problem. Could be vapor lock or a faulty pump
Been chasing this same issue for longer than I want to say. Even put a $500 nick williams tb on my build and the noise was still there! I’m trying this first thing tomorrow!
Holley also recommends a 4 hole spacer to get rid of the whistle sound
I could see that on a sniper 4 bbl injection but this is a ls 90mm throttle body
Ive been watching your application of the Edelbrock supercharger, I have a 2013 suburban 2500 with an L96 that I have put an E force supercharger, but Im having trouble with the tuning. What did you do with tuning
I let my Holley efi self tune.
The whistle gets abolished by the spacer from Holley that's what gets rid of the whistle..Iac should be between 8-12 after warm up
The spacer is garbage he is using a ls throttle body, Holley makes china crap
I have LS1 x max my truck has a vibration with foot on brake in gear. Do you think it could be the air / fuel setup? This is my first time doing a LS swap. It’s perfect when cold but seems like when it gets up to temp that’s when I feel vibrating in steering wheel.
Hard to say, I doubt t it's the afr settings. But I have had intermittent ignition coil issues that are similar to your symptoms
@@JunkinwithJr I have a scanner but there’s no where to connect to to check for misfire. I had my hot idle set at 600, now I have it at 800 and it’s not that bad but still there. I like the sound better with the idle low. It has a stock cam. I will check my plugs and see if there is one that looks different. They only have 64 miles on them we’ll actually every thing only has 64 miles, thanks for your help
Set it to ZERO instead of 20%. It will shut off when you're cruising. Its only for idle. My issue right now is, I cannot get mine down to 4 or 5 percent. Its usually in the 30 to 40 percent at idle. I've tried the "turn the idle screw up until its out and shuts off", and it does, but then it goes rich and bogs down. 12.8 AF idle?? So, as I slowly turn the screw back, as soon as the IAC tries to kick in, it goes right back up to 40%....no matter how slow I turn the screw. This makes for a bog spot just off idle, especially when you take off very slow. I know I have something set wrong, I just don't know what that is yet. Another phone call to Holley tech.......its a long wait but they do a good job.
The noise is not an issue at cruise only at idle.remember to do a tps autostart EVERY time you adjust the idle speed/butterfly screw
@@JunkinwithJr Yep, do the TPS thing every time too. Its something stupid that I'm not seeing....I'll be calling Holley monday. I've been in the classic auto restoration business for over 40 years. I know carbs and tuning all that stuff, we have a chassis dyno for all of our cars. We will put Packard's and Duesy's on it and get them running great, but this electric carb stuff is new to me. Which is why I wanted to try it. Learn something new! Its a learning curve for sure....
@Junkin' with Jr. Can you explain the tps autostart please?
Enter the tps autostart and it will tell you to slowly depress the pedal twice and then it will tell you it tps autostart successful
I'm having the same issue did you find out what was causing the dying issue
I have a 89 bronco and I put it on a 408 stroker and have been on the phone with Bill at Holley over and over the last week it was just a little rich when I started now it really rough at low rpm all the way up to 1250 before it levels out and is burning gas
Try unplugging the o2 sensor and see if it runs better. There's always a chance it's faulty and or sending an incorrect signal to the computer
Hey J, I didn't see the initial video and or the issue you had. My CJ5 Jeep has this Holley Sniper EFI but the issue I have is that my car will die at 35/45 minutes of driving around. It feels like something "heats" up or idles because I have to wait around 25 minutes to crank again and then i can drive around but it will die again so that's why I say its something that heats up and wont send the enough gas/power and the car dies. Everything is connected as it should and my mechanic has not find out any other issue than this system.. would you help? Calling this guys at Holley is like talking t o a wall.
Could be vapor lock. Rig up a fuel psi gauge so that you can check the psi when your problem occurs. If it reads less that 40, that's a problem. Could be vapor lock or a faulty pump
@Kari Schultz will do, thanks
Do you have a video on AFR ?
No sir
What are you wanting to know?