Thomas… First off: Thank you so much for putting out this content. I’m in the process of rebuilding a 93 4.0 and your videos have been extremely helpful. I really hope all goes well for you on startup! Secondly I have a question concerning the cam sync. My engine doesn’t have the sensor, only the sync. I was quick to think that the positioning of this shouldnt matter being as it only drives the oil pump. But, there is an oil port on the cam sync. I’m curious as to where this needs to be located. Facing cam gears I’m thinking? Thanks again for the content.
I have a 1998 Ranger with 4.0 pushrod engine. I mistakenly didn’t mark the EDIS before I pulled it out. When I reinstalled it I pointed it in the same direction but not the exact same( it may be pointing left or right by an 1”.)The truck now has code P0174 bank 2 is too lean. Can you install a EDIS wrong to make it idle higher and the engine wants to stall when in gear. Thank you in advance for any help. 😊
Anytime you installed the EDIS wrong, the computer would throw a crank vs cam sync code. Sound more like you have a major vacuum leak. Check your upper intake manifold gaskets, especially the gaskets under the fuel rail that go bad all the time. Hope this helps.
Thomas,I know this video is old but I hope you could help me... I was trying to replace the synchronizer,I put engine on TDC, removed the syncho,but now it won't go all the way down,I tried to put old one back and still won't go all the way down, it feels when it goes in the oil pump shaft but the syncho doesn't sit all the way down,I tried turning the crank a but and nothing, engine it's in the truck....any help? I'm planning on removing the oil pan it's an auto 2wd... Any advice?
It sounds like your are fighting the oil pump shaft. Now you cannot move the crank off of TDC 1. They only way I have dealt with this is problem is to take needle noise plyers and turn the oil pump shaft a little bit at a time after each time I try to install the synchro. This is one of the reasons why this job is so annoying. Its easy to mesh the gears together but a pain to mesh oil pump splines when going down in a twisted motion. You just have to keep trying to install the synchro after moving the oil pump shaft each time. If your that frustrated with it you can remove the oil pan and pump then install the synchro then oil pump and pan back up but I only would do that if the pan is relatively easy to remove. I hope this help for you.
Thomas, is there any way you can tell me how to time the old style, 3 wire Synchronizer with the window? I found out that style does not use the alignment tool after I took it out. I been looking for info for about a week and I just can’t find any. I
That is kind of hard to explain over text but I will do my best. First put engine to TDC number 1 just like I did in video. So the early window 3-wire is very similar to the late 3-wire sensor in the sense the rotor pick will be in the same location in relation of the synchro housing but in order to make sure it is in time with rest of engine you have to line up the rotor end to the mark on the window. If you look closely to the window you should see indentation line across it. Hard to see but should feel it with finger. Wish I had one to show and make video but I don't right now. I hope this helps.
While I do appreciate any attempt to help us do it yourselfers, this video is not going to be relevant to 99% of viewers. You've got an engine out of the vehicle, that does not even have heads on it. Replacing one of these in a Ranger looks to be a nightmare, and also looks to be impossible without removal of the upper intake, although I'm not finding a video on youtube to confirm that, unfortunately. There are videos for the 3.0 liter V6, but not the 4.0.
True on the stand, it's easier but in vehicle it is pretty much impossible to install it without taking off the upper intake. I will revisit this in future.
Thanks so much!! I didn’t even know about this!
Learning so much from your videos. Keep’em coming.
Grasias Thomas por sacar este vídeo me sirvió muchísimo porque lo desconocía desde buga colombia Francisco mecanico
Congratulations on the video, does the synchronizer rotate clockwise or anti-clockwise?
Have you been able to find transmission parts? I can find clutch but looking for synchronizer for Ford 4630 8x2 Synchronize shuttle transmission?
Me encantó tu informacion así voy a evitar el dolor en el bota maíz 👍👍👍
What Year Is The Motor & What Is The Build Date On The Drivers Door Jamb Sticker. That',d Make Chasing The Correct Synchro Easier
This engine is a 1998.
Thomas… First off: Thank you so much for putting out this content. I’m in the process of rebuilding a 93 4.0 and your videos have been extremely helpful. I really hope all goes well for you on startup! Secondly I have a question concerning the cam sync. My engine doesn’t have the sensor, only the sync. I was quick to think that the positioning of this shouldnt matter being as it only drives the oil pump. But, there is an oil port on the cam sync. I’m curious as to where this needs to be located. Facing cam gears I’m thinking? Thanks again for the content.
I have a 1998 Ranger with 4.0 pushrod engine. I mistakenly didn’t mark the EDIS before I pulled it out. When I reinstalled it I pointed it in the same direction but not the exact same( it may be pointing left or right by an 1”.)The truck now has code P0174 bank 2 is too lean. Can you install a EDIS wrong to make it idle higher and the engine wants to stall when in gear. Thank you in advance for any help. 😊
Anytime you installed the EDIS wrong, the computer would throw a crank vs cam sync code. Sound more like you have a major vacuum leak. Check your upper intake manifold gaskets, especially the gaskets under the fuel rail that go bad all the time. Hope this helps.
Ohhh I get it now haha 👍👍
Thomas,I know this video is old but I hope you could help me... I was trying to replace the synchronizer,I put engine on TDC, removed the syncho,but now it won't go all the way down,I tried to put old one back and still won't go all the way down,
it feels when it goes in the oil pump shaft but the syncho doesn't sit all the way down,I tried turning the crank a but and nothing, engine it's in the truck....any help? I'm planning on removing the oil pan it's an auto 2wd... Any advice?
It sounds like your are fighting the oil pump shaft. Now you cannot move the crank off of TDC 1. They only way I have dealt with this is problem is to take needle noise plyers and turn the oil pump shaft a little bit at a time after each time I try to install the synchro. This is one of the reasons why this job is so annoying. Its easy to mesh the gears together but a pain to mesh oil pump splines when going down in a twisted motion. You just have to keep trying to install the synchro after moving the oil pump shaft each time. If your that frustrated with it you can remove the oil pan and pump then install the synchro then oil pump and pan back up but I only would do that if the pan is relatively easy to remove. I hope this help for you.
Thomas, is there any way you can tell me how to time the old style, 3 wire Synchronizer with the window?
I found out that style does not use the alignment tool after I took it out.
I been looking for info for about a week and I just can’t find any.
I
That is kind of hard to explain over text but I will do my best. First put engine to TDC number 1 just like I did in video. So the early window 3-wire is very similar to the late 3-wire sensor in the sense the rotor pick will be in the same location in relation of the synchro housing but in order to make sure it is in time with rest of engine you have to line up the rotor end to the mark on the window. If you look closely to the window you should see indentation line across it. Hard to see but should feel it with finger. Wish I had one to show and make video but I don't right now. I hope this helps.
thanks broo
6:55 instalación
thank you, for this, there are a lot of videos but they are azz
While I do appreciate any attempt to help us do it yourselfers, this video is not going to be relevant to 99% of viewers. You've got an engine out of the vehicle, that does not even have heads on it. Replacing one of these in a Ranger looks to be a nightmare, and also looks to be impossible without removal of the upper intake, although I'm not finding a video on youtube to confirm that, unfortunately. There are videos for the 3.0 liter V6, but not the 4.0.
True on the stand, it's easier but in vehicle it is pretty much impossible to install it without taking off the upper intake. I will revisit this in future.
Thanks. It might help someone else.@@TEDDAV64
I broke my early 3 wire I was not happy