Hey! You guys talked me into revisiting this, I'm currently reprinting it! Follow me on Twitter for updates: twitter.com/GDFW17 and don't forget to ring that bell to get a notification when the video comes out!
Man you should print one solid piece and then tap the threads OR if you really want solid threads then check out V-coil, it's basically a tool that allows you to repair threads if you'd see it you'd understand how it works, I use it all the time in the workshop and those V-coil coil threads are really strong and I think they would really strenghten that part, you'd just put the coil threads into the plastic. Cheers!
Could always do it the same way, but just use a heat gun to reheat the cooled down material. Or what if you made it as a 2 piece mold, like what it turned itself into when it broke, but with thinner nuts, and less thickness on the mating face piece, then a bit more on the toothed section, and drill spots to put some steel guide pins. Or print them onto one of the parts, but any sort of pin setup would hold the 2 pieces together better.
Another way is to insert the nuts while printing. I would restructure the program to print a complex layering sequence to allow for the insertion of the nuts while maintaining structural rigidty whilst in perpetual motion.
The best and probably easiest way to do this would be to slice the model in half, then add protrusions to one half and divets that line up with the protrusions to the other half leaving holes half the thickness of the nuts on both halves so that they also act as pegs to hold the layers together. If you send me an stl file, I can fix the model for you. :P
The 3d printing community needs more of you guys, testing the limits of the materials and the process. While the result seems obvious It revealed data that will be useful for anyone pushing the envelope. Great job.
@@lucaslittmarck6804 problem with printing it at a 45 deg angle is that some teeth of the gear will be prone to de-lamination. no good way to print it on FDM printers.
So... why the need to encase the nuts? The NylonX layer strength is always going to be better than JB Weld. Why not make pockets to slide the nuts in? It's possible I'm missing something, but, I know one certain fact.. THIS WAS AWESOME. You need to do it again. Seriously.
I will try again if you collaborate with me and make a version out of polycarbonate! I tried soooooo hard but failed miserably sooooo many times and gave up!
Using pockets would be great, it would eliminate one point to failure One could suggest using a MOARstruder to get better layer bonding (but maybe losing on teeth accuracy) Or maybe it's just that I want to see MOARstruded NylonX :p
3D Printing Nerd After watching this I am impressed but I did notice somethings that went wrong and if you want I have my advice. Where you went wrong is three part. 1. You separated your print during the process and added in the nuts. This could be solved by placing the nuts in after it reaches 1mm rim on the hole without stopping the machine. I have done this with mixed results. I'd you do this Put adhesive (personal fan of Gorilla Glue) on face of nut and on top of nut. 2. You stopped the machine and didn't reheat the material. I don't recommend reheating but it is a possibility to a solution. 3. You could mount the go pro under the back for safety. Last thing you could do is a two part piece that has separate bolts to attach. Because the material held up just not the seem. (Counter sink The nuts for this method as not to increase the size.)
or redesign it to be a 2 piece from the start with interlocking teeth instead of being flat on the two surfaces you want to stick together. If you also have the nuts half way into each piece it would make it a lot stronger
The ring gear you are trying to replace uses a case hardening steel with tensile strength probably between 500 and 1000 N/mm^2, no way in hell a 3D printed, non-homogeneous plastic part with questionable layer to layer bond can do the same job.
Even if it was injection or compression molded it would get destroyed as soon as it was on the pavement....maybe a super tough nylon material with a high steel fiber content but unlikely
Success is not the point of the video. The point is to see how far away we are from being able to do this. IE is it say 3 orders of magnitude or 2 or even 1? Ordinary nylon I would guess would be 3 orders of magnitude too soft. With the carbon fibre depending on type I bet it's possible to get within a factor of 25.
it doesn't have any 'grease'... nor is it a degreaser.. .its a WATER DISPLACEMENT solution... nothing about it is a de-greaser, rust remover, anti-seizing agent, or anything. Its literal purpose is to displace water around whatever you spray. It just so happens that the displacement mixture also penetrates, and thus helps with rust, but in-so also CAUSES rust... its an oxidizer basically... it also is a HUGE enemy of ANYTHING 3D printed, because of its penetrating nature... As a side note, something like Brake Cleaner is in fact a de-greaser, sooooo
kwestionariusz1 75w- gear oil viscosity is comparable to engine oil of a grade somewhere between 10 and 20. The reason gear oils have a higher grade is so you don't mix them up with engine oils.
With how the thing snapped, it just seems like the design could use revision instead of throwing the idea out. If the teeth were all chewed up instead, I'd be concerned. Hey if MH is willing to supply you with more filament to do it, why the hell not?
Try again but try this: pause the print, position the nuts and use a soldering iron to quickly sink them, use extra long bolts that extend appropriately in gear side as far as possible. You could possibly reuse what you have printed by drilling. You will need to create holes for the bolts either way. Or you could possibly add an array of smaller bolts to do the same between the existing bolt holes. The main idea is to use bolts to resist shearing and separation. JB Weld probably could be used on mating surfaces.
Simple fix: Print it the other way up. That way the torque transfer from the gear to the bolts is all one continuous print with the layer holding the bolts in being under compression during use due to said bolts.
backtrackit anything with any oil content at all dissolves adhesives. Next time you pull a sticker off something and it leaves sticky residue, rub a finger on your forehead and rub the sticky spot. Even the oil from your face will dissolve adhesive. Not really a special wd40 trait.
backtrackit: WD-40 is nothing compared to PBlaster, especially in penetration. That'll melt a styorfoam cup very rapidly compared to WD-40, which is just a waste product of gasoline manufacture.
AvE compared a bunch of different penetrants, and WD-40 turned out to be one of the best ones. And PBlaster (PB'laster?) actually did pretty badly. This was with a sample size of 4 or 5, so take that for what it's worth, but I was surprised to see WD-40 do so well.
Is it possible to have a 3d printer designed to have a 90° turned extra extruder to add layers over the side of prints to add more structural rigidity?
Yes, please do it again. I'd suggest Threadserts. Larger OD to spread the load out, threaded to allow you to loctite them in. Adhesion to the nylon shouldn't be an issue as the loctite is just to wedge the Threadserts in place.
John Pickens: I think helicoils (for stripped hole repair) could do as well a job if he were to make it as one piece. Once you tap them in, they don't come out, and provide a strong thread face to hold on to while supporting the shear-load.
Wait. Couldn't you just put slices from the center to the place where the bolts are supposed to be? Then just slide the bolts in, see how it goes? Forget the tap and holes. Just make sure you use the nuts slid into it. Benefits are that it's all once piece and it should retain most, if not all of it's strength. Please try it again.
Nathan: I was just thinking the same thing as well, where you would slide the nuts into galleries arranged radially, however there is an issue with that. Due to a relatively imprecise fit, it would put "pressure hotspots" on small areas of the ring as a structure. You would want to spread the load as evenly as possible. Quite literally how the tip of a nail can pierce more easily than the head, if you get my meaning.
the printer isn't the problem. ungodly amounts of money on a printer isn't going to improve quality to godly proportions.. people seem to have a problem understanding that the more you spend doesn't necessarily mean the product quality improves. you can spend a billion dollars on a FDM printer and still have issues. you will over pay just make the same part because of your status ego.
Try again with a different design! I would love to that thing working properly. The material seems to be strong enough to handle lower torque and lower speeds. By the way, could you try to make a transparent cover to protect the differential? :D
Thanks for the experiment and the cool video. Since the main problem is not the material strength and rather lack of enough layer adhesion, I would suggest two remedies: - Printing at an angle. probably 30 degrees or somewhere there. - Putting the printed gear in a clay/plaster/silicon mold then heat it up in the oven for a couple of hours so the plastic remelts and the integrity improves. And the mold can be removed using a water bath or just physical force in the case silicon. I'm really curious to see the results and I hope you consider them. Cheers
Dude I love legos, even got a 5 speed trans built out of technic parts with reverse and standard H shift pattern. I'm going to start casting alum lego gear parts, you reckon there was a market for em?
ok I'm a 3d print idiot but if this materiel is as strong as he says it is why can't he just print the threads into the part? I mean if it can handle the torque of the motor why wouldn't it to be able to handle the torque from tightening the bolts into the "plastic"?
You have to try this again. For science! Seriously, this could change the game for a lot of people trying to mesh their love for cars and imaginations with a 3D printer
It could not. Gears are usually made to last for a very long time and to do so, the stiffness and bending strength of them are pretty critical. The bending strength at the tooth root are very much lessened because of the 3D printing and even with chopped CF, the stiffness is much less than steel. It will not be a usable part for a car.
Sebastian Jørgensen: I don't think the idea was for practicality, it was just to see how long it would last. Failure was assumed from the beginning, hence the beater pickup. You are quite right in every other way though.
Claws61821: I do, but I am also an engineer who has had the task of designing a gearbox for a racecar. Those gears are heat treated to have strengths much well above 1000 MPa wheras 3D printed PLA had a strength of 30 MPa last time I put a piece of it in our tensile testing machine. For the wear on the tooth flank, the tooth flank stiffness is also very important as the steel tooth will indent into the plastic tooth, thus not keeping the involute shape. This exites fatigue failure in the tooth flank but also gives higher losses and more wear on the plastic tooth. I know that this is not a racecar and the gear that it replaces is most likely a hell lot cheaper than those we use but even if it is simply C40E (Edit: type of steel, commonly used for gears) there are still a factor of 10-20 in difference of strength. Especially because 3D printing does not give very homogenious parts, the fatigue strength is probably also a lot lower than for a machined plastic gear so it will never be suitable for use in the transmission of such a heavy vehicle. A 12V childrens car is probably a suitable application for 3D printed gears.
Philospher of Nonsense: Zac Parks sounded like he imagined that it could be an acutal usable part for this car if it didn't fail where it was paused. 3D printing is great, but it is not a wonder where you can replace anything with plastic and especially not when the manufacturing process of 3D printing results in so much weaker parts than other plastic parts.
I would have included a thin metal ring and thin metal spokes hidden inside the Nylon to increase its overall durability. I would also have given the assembled part a thin but hardened coating of fiberglass or a similar material. Just wondering though; how well do you think a 3D printer would work if you crossed it with a vacuum chamber?
You are living in the wrong country if you have that kind of medical bills. Got a new kidney inserted, and it cost med about $30 for nearly two week hospitalization. And yes, it cost me about £250 a year for medication and regular medical check up. No, I don't have any personal insurance for this.
You're right, I live in the wrong country. I'm a refugee from Kekistan. This isn't my home, though they've been gracious to host me. As for the cost, I'd rather lose an arm and a leg rather than my soul to a commie totalitarian government.
Yeah I don't think it will work with a redesign. But you are in it now so keep on keepin' on!!! Oh BTW I love the shop manager that came out to inspect at just the right moment (talkin' about the cat!!!)
I would retest with threaded inserts. That's what's used in the composites industry for things like medical tables and aerospace components. Just drill and set with an epoxy. Also, a side note for JB Weld, heating it to about 120 when drying helps with flow and adhesion (good for getting out voids), but will make it runny until it starts to cure. Also, for a lubricant, you could try graphite.
Would it work if you made the pockets for the nuts go right the way through the ring gear from the tooth side, inserted the nuts, then printed in the "missing" bits of tooth? For extra strength you could drill through and tap a shear pin in to stop the "plug" dropping out.
Why did you have to hammer the nuts in? Why not size the nut holes so that they will just drop in or push in by hand and taper the holes very slightly near the bottom so when you tighten the bolts the nuts will snug up? You can drop or push the nuts in without interrupting the print this way. You definitely have to do this again!
3D printed parts are nowadays still anisotropic saddly... not really enabling you to print hyper strong parts whatever dirrection the stress is applied to... Still very inspiring ! I guess you must continue doing this kind of videos !
Michel PASTOR I was thinking this too, use a non contact thermometer to read surface temp at the pause, then heat gun or hair dryer to bring the surface back up to the previous reading. Although I think using slots to slide the nuts is may work out better.
can you please redo this properly, i have throughts that this is going to work because ive been using Nylon-CF and its strength is crazy, so its fit for this application.
Suggestion: step 1 - before printing, set the nuts prethreaded onto the bolt shafts at the desired hight. Step 2 - set the bolts on the head with the prethreaded nuts shaft up in the pattern desired. Step 3 - set printer to start printing at the correct measured hight on the bolt shafts in order to embed the nuts into the structure without having to pause the printer. In this method, it is all one piece and you can still remove the bolts because you have access to the heads.
An exotic additive lathe 3D printer would be really good for this. Then there are no axial layers but only radial ones. And there are much less shearing forces because the meshing teeth distribute the load well.
Could it work if the nuts were pressed through the gear teeth and then filled over top of, surely that would solve the delamination problem from pausing the print
Is it possible to vary the depths of the nuts so that the shear forces are not acting upon the same plane and so ,having the full thickness of the ring gear share the torque load? Cheers from Australia🙂
Were you guys trying t see if a printed gear would work? if so first it looks to me that there is a lot of area on the inside that could have been filled with the medium when printed. And have you ever used helicoil which is stronger than the threads in the original threads in the stock gear?
2:15 incorrect method of installing shims. Can cause them to deform and even break. Best to put the shims in the housing using oil on them to stick them to the sides, then slide the diff center in using a hard rubber/nylon mallet to help wriggle it in. Good experiment though.
Try making some pegs that are the height the nuts need to be out of the material and a jig to hold them in position then print around them kinda like casting is done?
Im just a hacker who loves working with computers , cars , drones and industrial machine's. I always wonder about stuff like this, its so cool that your making videos like this and allowing people like me to learn . Thanks 😊
Hey! You guys talked me into revisiting this, I'm currently reprinting it! Follow me on Twitter for updates: twitter.com/GDFW17 and don't forget to ring that bell to get a notification when the video comes out!
Man you should print one solid piece and then tap the threads OR if you really want solid threads then check out V-coil, it's basically a tool that allows you to repair threads if you'd see it you'd understand how it works, I use it all the time in the workshop and those V-coil coil threads are really strong and I think they would really strenghten that part, you'd just put the coil threads into the plastic. Cheers!
Could always do it the same way, but just use a heat gun to reheat the cooled down material.
Or what if you made it as a 2 piece mold, like what it turned itself into when it broke, but with thinner nuts, and less thickness on the mating face piece, then a bit more on the toothed section, and drill spots to put some steel guide pins. Or print them onto one of the parts, but any sort of pin setup would hold the 2 pieces together better.
Another way is to insert the nuts while printing. I would restructure the program to print a complex layering sequence to allow for the insertion of the nuts while maintaining structural rigidty whilst in perpetual motion.
The best and probably easiest way to do this would be to slice the model in half, then add protrusions to one half and divets that line up with the protrusions to the other half leaving holes half the thickness of the nuts on both halves so that they also act as pegs to hold the layers together.
If you send me an stl file, I can fix the model for you. :P
Gear Down For What? Post this on thingiverse and I'll tinkercad it to perfection for you.
The 3d printing community needs more of you guys, testing the limits of the materials and the process. While the result seems obvious It revealed data that will be useful for anyone pushing the envelope. Great job.
I would still love to see a retest with a one piece gear.
He also needs to print It standing or at a 45 degree angle to keep it from "delamination".
Stuff this simple should never be printed.
And use brass inserts instead.
@@lucaslittmarck6804 problem with printing it at a 45 deg angle is that some teeth of the gear will be prone to de-lamination.
no good way to print it on FDM printers.
@@darkshadowsx5949 Non-planar printing with variable layer height might help.
This joke is so good, 3 years later and people still don't get it
So... why the need to encase the nuts? The NylonX layer strength is always going to be better than JB Weld. Why not make pockets to slide the nuts in? It's possible I'm missing something, but, I know one certain fact..
THIS WAS AWESOME. You need to do it again. Seriously.
I will try again if you collaborate with me and make a version out of polycarbonate!
I tried soooooo hard but failed miserably sooooo many times and gave up!
Gear Down For What? Polycarb? Dude, great idea!
Using pockets would be great, it would eliminate one point to failure
One could suggest using a MOARstruder to get better layer bonding (but maybe losing on teeth accuracy)
Or maybe it's just that I want to see MOARstruded NylonX :p
3D Printing Nerd
After watching this I am impressed but I did notice somethings that went wrong and if you want I have my advice.
Where you went wrong is three part.
1. You separated your print during the process and added in the nuts.
This could be solved by placing the nuts in after it reaches 1mm rim on the hole without stopping the machine. I have done this with mixed results. I'd you do this Put adhesive (personal fan of Gorilla Glue) on face of nut and on top of nut.
2. You stopped the machine and didn't reheat the material. I don't recommend reheating but it is a possibility to a solution.
3. You could mount the go pro under the back for safety.
Last thing you could do is a two part piece that has separate bolts to attach. Because the material held up just not the seem. (Counter sink The nuts for this method as not to increase the size.)
or redesign it to be a 2 piece from the start with interlocking teeth instead of being flat on the two surfaces you want to stick together. If you also have the nuts half way into each piece it would make it a lot stronger
Not watching to see if it fails. Watching to see how spectacularly it fails.
BikerTrashWolf wasting plastic. Better do a mold and aluminium casting.
Please come back to this, it's extremely awesome seeing products that don't belong in a car get used
The ring gear you are trying to replace uses a case hardening steel with tensile strength probably between 500 and 1000 N/mm^2, no way in hell a 3D printed, non-homogeneous plastic part with questionable layer to layer bond can do the same job.
Stefan. Exactly what I was thinking. I guess we are both mechanical engineers :)
Стефан Парийски I mean no fucking shit that's not the point of the video
Even if it was injection or compression molded it would get destroyed as soon as it was on the pavement....maybe a super tough nylon material with a high steel fiber content but unlikely
Success is not the point of the video. The point is to see how far away we are from being able to do this. IE is it say 3 orders of magnitude or 2 or even 1? Ordinary nylon I would guess would be 3 orders of magnitude too soft. With the carbon fibre depending on type I bet it's possible to get within a factor of 25.
Under ideal circumstances it might last a few minutes of slight acceleration. One turn, or flooring it, or reversing it and it's toast.
Please don't use WD-40 as a grease. WD-40 is a mixture of grease and degreaser, it is not good for greasing up parts
BrainSeepsOut, yup, just some 30W oil should be fine
Yup, just some 30w oil should be fine.
For gearboxes and diferentials mostly are used oil with SAE above 75W
it doesn't have any 'grease'... nor is it a degreaser.. .its a WATER DISPLACEMENT solution... nothing about it is a de-greaser, rust remover, anti-seizing agent, or anything. Its literal purpose is to displace water around whatever you spray. It just so happens that the displacement mixture also penetrates, and thus helps with rust, but in-so also CAUSES rust... its an oxidizer basically... it also is a HUGE enemy of ANYTHING 3D printed, because of its penetrating nature...
As a side note, something like Brake Cleaner is in fact a de-greaser, sooooo
kwestionariusz1 75w- gear oil viscosity is comparable to engine oil of a grade somewhere between 10 and 20. The reason gear oils have a higher grade is so you don't mix them up with engine oils.
"You wouldn't download a car"
*Its getting closer*
Printed parts are getting harder.
And so am I.
*Cue music*
You wouldn't print a lady's purse...
WD-40 is a solvent!! Not a lubricant. Use a lubricant that won’t damage your print!
And not use that much oil. Some on moving metall parts and not half a liter!
WD40 is 1 part motor oil, 1 part fuel oil. It is not a solvent.
Do it again with press-in inserts.
Also temper it if possible.
Might need to 'cure' it with some slow heat and cool cycles, to fuse all the layers.
With how the thing snapped, it just seems like the design could use revision instead of throwing the idea out.
If the teeth were all chewed up instead, I'd be concerned. Hey if MH is willing to supply you with more filament to do it, why the hell not?
I saw the title and thumbnail and literally LOL'd at the idea. But I respect the ambition and doing it for science.
I'd say do it again man, this was interesting. :)
Try again but try this: pause the print, position the nuts and use a soldering iron to quickly sink them, use extra long bolts that extend appropriately in gear side as far as possible. You could possibly reuse what you have printed by drilling. You will need to create holes for the bolts either way. Or you could possibly add an array of smaller bolts to do the same between the existing bolt holes. The main idea is to use bolts to resist shearing and separation. JB Weld probably could be used on mating surfaces.
Simple fix: Print it the other way up. That way the torque transfer from the gear to the bolts is all one continuous print with the layer holding the bolts in being under compression during use due to said bolts.
Not sure I understand this, could you explain please?
Sprayed WD-40 in there... nice... 🤦🏻♂️
WD40 is a terrible lubricant. Just fyi. Basically anything is better than wd40.
also dissolves adhesives
backtrackit anything with any oil content at all dissolves adhesives. Next time you pull a sticker off something and it leaves sticky residue, rub a finger on your forehead and rub the sticky spot. Even the oil from your face will dissolve adhesive. Not really a special wd40 trait.
backtrackit: WD-40 is nothing compared to PBlaster, especially in penetration. That'll melt a styorfoam cup very rapidly compared to WD-40, which is just a waste product of gasoline manufacture.
As a lubricant its only ok. It is a penatrating fluid, degreaser, rust remover and a few other things
AvE compared a bunch of different penetrants, and WD-40 turned out to be one of the best ones. And PBlaster (PB'laster?) actually did pretty badly. This was with a sample size of 4 or 5, so take that for what it's worth, but I was surprised to see WD-40 do so well.
Make a mold, and form a diff out of jb weld
DO IT AGAIN!!! This is really cool!
Is it possible to have a 3d printer designed to have a 90° turned extra extruder to add layers over the side of prints to add more structural rigidity?
Yes, please do it again. I'd suggest Threadserts. Larger OD to spread the load out, threaded to allow you to loctite them in. Adhesion to the nylon shouldn't be an issue as the loctite is just to wedge the Threadserts in place.
Like this 7/16-20 LH thread helical insert.
www.threadtoolsupply.com/716-20-lh-helical-thread-inserts.html
John Pickens: I think helicoils (for stripped hole repair) could do as well a job if he were to make it as one piece. Once you tap them in, they don't come out, and provide a strong thread face to hold on to while supporting the shear-load.
Helicoil, Threadserts, same thing. Look at the link I posted, same stuff.
I don't know why you would even try this. It's fucking steel for a reason.
Wait. Couldn't you just put slices from the center to the place where the bolts are supposed to be? Then just slide the bolts in, see how it goes? Forget the tap and holes. Just make sure you use the nuts slid into it. Benefits are that it's all once piece and it should retain most, if not all of it's strength.
Please try it again.
^^ to the top! ^^
Nathan: I was just thinking the same thing as well, where you would slide the nuts into galleries arranged radially, however there is an issue with that. Due to a relatively imprecise fit, it would put "pressure hotspots" on small areas of the ring as a structure. You would want to spread the load as evenly as possible. Quite literally how the tip of a nail can pierce more easily than the head, if you get my meaning.
When you are done printing, bake it. It will strengthen the layer adhesion. Also, try MarkForge.
the printer isn't the problem. ungodly amounts of money on a printer isn't going to improve quality to godly proportions..
people seem to have a problem understanding that the more you spend doesn't necessarily mean the product quality improves.
you can spend a billion dollars on a FDM printer and still have issues. you will over pay just make the same part because of your status ego.
Try again with a different design!
I would love to that thing working properly. The material seems to be strong enough to handle lower torque and lower speeds. By the way, could you try to make a transparent cover to protect the differential? :D
Thanks for the experiment and the cool video. Since the main problem is not the material strength and rather lack of enough layer adhesion, I would suggest two remedies:
- Printing at an angle. probably 30 degrees or somewhere there.
- Putting the printed gear in a clay/plaster/silicon mold then heat it up in the oven for a couple of hours so the plastic remelts and the integrity improves. And the mold can be removed using a water bath or just physical force in the case silicon.
I'm really curious to see the results and I hope you consider them.
Cheers
I am well familiar with how differentials work, because I have to build them more than a million times in Lego.
Dude I love legos, even got a 5 speed trans built out of technic parts with reverse and standard H shift pattern.
I'm going to start casting alum lego gear parts, you reckon there was a market for em?
Patrick Baptist Maybe ☺
Did you setup the backlash on the gearset? Backlash out of spec on something that soft could instantly kill it.
please do it again!
Please try again. I'd really like to know if 3d printed parts can be used for vehicle gears and such
You should definitely try it again!
Do you have a video going over how you embedded the bolt holes into the print?
you could print the gear and use helicoils, or a slot on the side and slide the nuts in
Came here to suggest this as well.
ok I'm a 3d print idiot but if this materiel is as strong as he says it is why can't he just print the threads into the part? I mean if it can handle the torque of the motor why wouldn't it to be able to handle the torque from tightening the bolts into the "plastic"?
I'm going to look into this filled nylon. Do they happen to have similar plastics as well?
I would like to see a part 2
Did you check the Ra on the faces of the teeth? I'd be interested to see how it differs from the standard metal ring gear.
I wanna see if it works
I'm actually amazed it even held up that well! Kudos!!! I can't wait to see the revised version.
You have to try this again. For science! Seriously, this could change the game for a lot of people trying to mesh their love for cars and imaginations with a 3D printer
It could not. Gears are usually made to last for a very long time and to do so, the stiffness and bending strength of them are pretty critical. The bending strength at the tooth root are very much lessened because of the 3D printing and even with chopped CF, the stiffness is much less than steel. It will not be a usable part for a car.
Sebastian Jørgensen Do you even watch this channel, bro? These guys have shown that even PLA does amazing things as printed gears.
Sebastian Jørgensen: I don't think the idea was for practicality, it was just to see how long it would last. Failure was assumed from the beginning, hence the beater pickup. You are quite right in every other way though.
Claws61821: I do, but I am also an engineer who has had the task of designing a gearbox for a racecar. Those gears are heat treated to have strengths much well above 1000 MPa wheras 3D printed PLA had a strength of 30 MPa last time I put a piece of it in our tensile testing machine. For the wear on the tooth flank, the tooth flank stiffness is also very important as the steel tooth will indent into the plastic tooth, thus not keeping the involute shape. This exites fatigue failure in the tooth flank but also gives higher losses and more wear on the plastic tooth.
I know that this is not a racecar and the gear that it replaces is most likely a hell lot cheaper than those we use but even if it is simply C40E (Edit: type of steel, commonly used for gears) there are still a factor of 10-20 in difference of strength.
Especially because 3D printing does not give very homogenious parts, the fatigue strength is probably also a lot lower than for a machined plastic gear so it will never be suitable for use in the transmission of such a heavy vehicle. A 12V childrens car is probably a suitable application for 3D printed gears.
Philospher of Nonsense: Zac Parks sounded like he imagined that it could be an acutal usable part for this car if it didn't fail where it was paused. 3D printing is great, but it is not a wonder where you can replace anything with plastic and especially not when the manufacturing process of 3D printing results in so much weaker parts than other plastic parts.
I would have included a thin metal ring and thin metal spokes hidden inside the Nylon to increase its overall durability. I would also have given the assembled part a thin but hardened coating of fiberglass or a similar material.
Just wondering though; how well do you think a 3D printer would work if you crossed it with a vacuum chamber?
what is you guys used a carbon fiber injection molded part
I embedded nuts into a handrail once. I haven't skated since then.
Belias Phyre Don't have the balls to do it again eh?
After medical bills, I didn't have an arm and a leg.
You are living in the wrong country if you have that kind of medical bills.
Got a new kidney inserted, and it cost med about $30 for nearly two week hospitalization. And yes, it cost me about £250 a year for medication and regular medical check up. No, I don't have any personal insurance for this.
You're right, I live in the wrong country. I'm a refugee from Kekistan. This isn't my home, though they've been gracious to host me. As for the cost, I'd rather lose an arm and a leg rather than my soul to a commie totalitarian government.
No need to lose soul, leg and arm to get descent health care for about the half price of USA.
Worths a second try. How expresive is it to print this part in Nylonx?
Do the spider gears as they wont need nuts or threading
21babydew: The splines would strip quite easily though, or do you mean only the spiders on the carrier?
Just the carrier spider or shoot try it all like thats what this channel is about
I wonder what if your replace a parachute with an umbrella, will it land you safely, can you check?
Either design this as a continuous print, or as two different prints with teeth to increase surface area.
Also WD40 is a terrible lubricant
How were you able to copy the dimensions to the computer? Sorry newb here.
You have just earned yourself another subscriber love the production of the video
what kind of temperatures can it withstand...?
1:57 thumbs up for cat
3:52 There's a glitch in the Matrix...
Yeah I don't think it will work with a redesign. But you are in it now so keep on keepin' on!!! Oh BTW I love the shop manager that came out to inspect at just the right moment (talkin' about the cat!!!)
Wd40 is petroleum-based. It melts most plastic.
Nylon is extremely resistant against most chemicals
I've never seen WD 40 melt plastic. Any type, ever.
Maybe that is not the prpblem, but never use WD40 as a lubricant!
I would retest with threaded inserts. That's what's used in the composites industry for things like medical tables and aerospace components. Just drill and set with an epoxy. Also, a side note for JB Weld, heating it to about 120 when drying helps with flow and adhesion (good for getting out voids), but will make it runny until it starts to cure. Also, for a lubricant, you could try graphite.
More!! More Gears!!!!!
Would it work if you made the pockets for the nuts go right the way through the ring gear from the tooth side, inserted the nuts, then printed in the "missing" bits of tooth? For extra strength you could drill through and tap a shear pin in to stop the "plug" dropping out.
Yes, do it again!
Why did you have to hammer the nuts in? Why not size the nut holes so that they will just drop in or push in by hand and taper the holes very slightly near the bottom so when you tighten the bolts the nuts will snug up? You can drop or push the nuts in without interrupting the print this way. You definitely have to do this again!
3D printed parts are nowadays still anisotropic saddly... not really enabling you to print hyper strong parts whatever dirrection the stress is applied to...
Still very inspiring ! I guess you must continue doing this kind of videos !
unless you use the extremely expensive M1 carbon printer...That thing is one cool overpriced machine...
You have to admit though, even after 2 failures, those gear teeth really held up well.
Could you try something similar but using a plastic welder to put both pieces back together or make a well as suggested below
Maybe just reheat the part before restarting the print
Michel PASTOR I was thinking this too, use a non contact thermometer to read surface temp at the pause, then heat gun or hair dryer to bring the surface back up to the previous reading.
Although I think using slots to slide the nuts is may work out better.
What if you do the nut inserts but leave a hole for studs to hold the two segments together?
Coolest thing ever!! Theoretical turned to practical. I actually got goose bumps!!
Could you drill holes into it to slip metal pins, like from a roller bearing to keep the ring gear and it's body together?
Do it again!!
Can you make it solid and then drill and tap threads into it ?
MOAR!!!
Try using helicoil threads to add strength to the threaded nylon!
WD = water dispenser
WD lubricant
Are the new bolts also LH threads? if not, the rotation can cause the bolts to back off, and loosen. Not a good thing.
the WD-40 will destroy glue and plastic
Would threaded sleeves work?
Consider adding axial holes for steel pins to tie the two layers together on either side of the 'nut-sert' layer??
Have you thought about changing the orientation of the print, at an angle similar to the tooth direction?
Which 3d printer did you use?
You really got to do it again how much does that material cost anyway?
can you please redo this properly, i have throughts that this is going to work because ive been using Nylon-CF and its strength is crazy, so its fit for this application.
So when are we going to see it?
Suggestion: step 1 - before printing, set the nuts prethreaded onto the bolt shafts at the desired hight.
Step 2 - set the bolts on the head with the prethreaded nuts shaft up in the pattern desired.
Step 3 - set printer to start printing at the correct measured hight on the bolt shafts in order to embed the nuts into the structure without having to pause the printer.
In this method, it is all one piece and you can still remove the bolts because you have access to the heads.
Could you make the nutsert holes pass through the teeth so that you can print it all at once to avoid the layer adhesion problem?
What if you bolted it all the way through so there is no slip between the two pieces (Small bolts where the lower ridges are to bind both parts.
what printer did you use? is that Anet a8?
Yes!
didn't know if Anet was good enough to print with Nylon X lol cool!
An exotic additive lathe 3D printer would be really good for this. Then there are no axial layers but only radial ones. And there are much less shearing forces because the meshing teeth distribute the load well.
Whats the music that plays when the gear broke the second time
Dunno, something from sound stripe
Wonder if he flipped the layers 90⁰ if it be alot stronger and be able to hold up to the torque.
did you anneal it?
You should perform annealing to the finished nylon CF part in an oven set to an optimum heat settings for nylon to strenghten it....
Could it work if the nuts were pressed through the gear teeth and then filled over top of, surely that would solve the delamination problem from pausing the print
Will it blend?
Can you make it 3D printed folding mirror for the 2010 chevy Camaro because they didn't make it a folding mirror
Why not have slots for sliding the nuts in from the inner side?
That is some sick skills, putting back the previously printed model and printing over it! Awesome job!
Is it possible to vary the depths of the nuts so that the shear forces are not acting upon the same plane
and so ,having the full thickness of the ring gear share the torque load?
Cheers from Australia🙂
Were you guys trying t see if a printed gear would work? if so first it looks to me that there is a lot of area on the inside that could have been filled with the medium when printed. And have you ever used helicoil which is stronger than the threads in the original threads in the stock gear?
2:15 incorrect method of installing shims. Can cause them to deform and even break. Best to put the shims in the housing using oil on them to stick them to the sides, then slide the diff center in using a hard rubber/nylon mallet to help wriggle it in. Good experiment though.
una pregunta por que no utilizas filamento virtual fondry para ese piñon funcionaria mas
Why where you spraying solvent on it
Try making some pegs that are the height the nuts need to be out of the material and a jig to hold them in position then print around them kinda like casting is done?
Im just a hacker who loves working with computers , cars , drones and industrial machine's.
I always wonder about stuff like this, its so cool that your making videos like this and allowing people like me to learn .
Thanks 😊