First time at The Mounds! Very cool, so much more to explore, will definitely be back again! Interested in more offroading? • Pearl Pass, Crested Bu...
I like how you used the bike tool to measure PSI. I'll probably bring mine along now. I also have the Staun's deflators. Those things are dead simple to use and small. Don't see many people on the trail using them.
I have a badlands SAS. I’m going to do a 1.5” perch collar, and a 1” coil over spacer. Doing the JKS crash bar removal kit. And with the KO2 37’s 12.5 and not getting ing any wheel rub anywhere and have plenty of room without bounce
This hill in the thumbnail? Yes if I tried to slow crawl it the tires just spun, didn't have enough bite. I didn't want to hit it with any momentum because I think I would have hit my spare tire too hard possibly ruining the tailgate.
Yes 4 low, it's deceptive on rough terrain. Even on 33"s it never felt too slow on rough terrain. Kinda funny because once you get on the road, first gear in high range feels like a crawl. It's all relative.
Thanks! And no, I haven't added anything, but I do carry spare tie rods at all times. I recommend using minimal lift. Lift increases the worst case loading scenarios on your suspension as much or more than just bigger tires. I would much rather replace tie rods than replace my steering gear. I know some people have had good luck with braces and other add-ons but its not worth the risk to me. I off-road about as hard as I can, but I use my steering angle and skinny pedal conservatively whenever I am in big flex/rocky situations. If you are set on getting lift for the look, I recommend doing it with springs/perch collars so that you don't increase the droop (which can kill the tierods/steering gear). Puck/spacer lifts are a major risk factor for breaking stuff if offroading. I did end up using a 2/3" level spacer on the front (not ideal), I would go no more than 1" under any circumstances. Any higher and I would rather do a more comprehensive kit that keeps my steering geometry safer/flatter.
@@mattg8116 Really appreciate your response. I actually have an SVC 2” perch collar lift and since I have a BB I don’t disconnect the sway bar. That said, I do wheel with what I have, but nothing too crazy. I do have a RC tie rod sleeves and I’m probably gonna buy the steering bushings too. I always keep spare tie-rods, but more worried about the rack
It does not lack for power in any way for offroading. But if you have a lead foot and like to get into it for fun daily driving the 2.7 is probably the right choice. I drive conservatively on road and save the rowdiness for offroading and the 2.3 is great for that.
@@mattg8116 I appreciate the info! I go on plenty of road trips usually carrying a full 4 people so its good to know its not really lacking any power for real use. I'll save the spirited driving for a sports car 😆
MAXXIS Trepador Radial 37x12.5 on 17" Black Rhino Avenger beadlocks in gray. The gray was actually a great match for cactus gray! I was also looking at the MAXXIS RAZR MT and the Black Rhino Primm. Would have looked and worked great as well.
In terms of cost, you usually can't beat used right? but if you're looking at new specifically the Bronco is very competitively priced. I got mine for 48k and it's a badlands, you could do even better by getting a base with sasquatch. (4runners can easily be ordered for more, and not a single version has that level of off-road capability. and a Wrangler new isn't substantially cheaper either.) As for the top. I placed my order back in spring of 2021 the exact moment order banks opened and at that time there was a significant delay in delivery for hardtops, so I opted for the soft top to get it sooner. I also like how easy it is to flip back.
I’m pretty confident in the Bronco’s capability! Haven’t broken anything yet, but even if I did, it would be worth it. Life’s too short to buy a cool car and park it in a showroom
Yes, in this video I have 2 of the 3 spacers for the RC 1" front level installed. Just 2 spacers raised it almost an inch. I needed a bit of lift because the Badlands non sasquatch doesn't limit up-travel as much as sas (this is good for wheel travel) but I needed to clear the body with true 37's. I also wanted to keep the spacer lift to a minimum to be as conservative as possible for the CV's and tie rods.
@@AustinH7 Is there a particular part of the video you guys are referring to? Because it was honestly pretty tame. Was it backing off the muddy ledge? Or going 1-2mph through the rock garden? I mean it was nothing crazy. I dont even have the tie rod splints and havent busted a thing.
Name a common daily drivable 37" bigger than the Trepador... I'll wait. Why does one require a lift to wheel? I prefer better chassis dynamics/flex/strength. Why? Because I actually wheel it, pretty hard. I have a whole video up on doing poison spider bone stock, and obviously I don't film every adventure, I simply included a couple videos from adding the 37's to be informative to others. BTW mall crawlers are exclusively lifted rigs, you know this. We call them mall crawlers generally because they are lifted (often making suspension performance worse in key ways) and they never take it off road. (What's this video again?) Word of advice, if you hear metal on rock, it's not crawling at the mall... I'm curious why you thought it was worth your time to comment such negativity on a little channel that's just got a few fun videos... Grow up, get a stupid little cheap mall crawler lift for your Bronco so you can feel big and tough and move on.
Any lift more than necessary is too much lift. It's not about the money, it's about optimizing wheel travel and suspension geometry. I'm not interested in building a jacked up rig that has no travel and three wheels over everything. But thank you for your thoughts.
@@mattg8116 Exactly and this is WAY below what's necessary. Your very welcome. I hope it doesn't take to long before you can afford the bare minimum lift. Best wishes.
@@charleshenson4183 Respectfully, you don't know what you are talking about. If you did, you would have said about 0.5-1". With an equivalent diff drop. The only thing I'm limited in functionally is a full send jump. Since I'm not interested in that right now, this IS the bare minimum that IS fully functional. Low speed articulation does not contact body. Any lift, including full coilovers (which I can afford) will only raise my ride height and drive me closer to full rebound which is terrible for CVs, ride, and functionality off road. If I wanted to be tiptoed out and have no flex off road, I'd buy a Defender. I'll break it down: Tires are king off-road. After that it's wheel travel. After that it gets pretty subjective. It's frankly absurd how many people think you need to be on a 3" coilover lift to run 37's, it's baloney and you break more stuff for a slight advantage in break over, and huge disadvantage in true legitimate usable wheel travel. If you can afford the lift I suggest you enroll in a vehicle dynamics course at a local engineering school between wheeling sessions. Also, perhaps reexamine why you thought it was worth your time to tell somebody on their own video on a small channel that their build was wrong LOL! If you are talking about builds with increased wheel travel with either portals or a multi inch diff drop and appropriate coil overs, sure that's awesome, and absolutely not step one on my build... Do you even have a Bronco? Do you realize how easy it is to put 37's on while still retaining full wheel travel? This isn't a 4Runner that needs a friggin lift for 33's lol
Non sas actually, just badlands. A bit more wheel travel, but that means more clearance issues. No real lift kit, just 2/3rds of the RC 1" level kit (comes with 3 spacers). That's all I needed to clear the body with flares removed during full articulation. I do rub the wheel liners a bit but nothing catastrophic, I preferred less lift for better suspension geometry and CV angles. If you want to jump it, you would want more lift. As for the tailgate I have seen no evidence that I need reinforcement, I'm a less is more kinda guy. I do have extensions for the tire support bushings but that's it. Wheels are 0 offset, I would have preferred +25-35 (would probably be better for wheel liner clearance) but there are almost no beadlocks in that offset range.
Interested in more offroading? Check out my favorite Pass: ua-cam.com/video/00WpJoflD-E/v-deo.html
I like how you used the bike tool to measure PSI. I'll probably bring mine along now. I also have the Staun's deflators. Those things are dead simple to use and small. Don't see many people on the trail using them.
I have a badlands SAS. I’m going to do a 1.5” perch collar, and a 1” coil over spacer. Doing the JKS crash bar removal kit. And with the KO2 37’s 12.5 and not getting ing any wheel rub anywhere and have plenty of room without bounce
A 3" body lift would complete your Bronco build
Looks like you all had a blast!
this is beast love the video
Nice video, good to see what the Bronco can do with the right setup. I knoticed you cut out the hill, did you not finish?
This hill in the thumbnail? Yes if I tried to slow crawl it the tires just spun, didn't have enough bite. I didn't want to hit it with any momentum because I think I would have hit my spare tire too hard possibly ruining the tailgate.
Yeah, I remember my 2nd time "off-roading"
Open to suggestions, SE Michigan is a bit limited for adventure but you can find some cool obstacles regardless
Was she in 4L and crawler in a few of those shots? Looked like it was flying... mine u can't hardly see moved in those gears..
Yes 4 low, it's deceptive on rough terrain. Even on 33"s it never felt too slow on rough terrain. Kinda funny because once you get on the road, first gear in high range feels like a crawl. It's all relative.
Cool video, but more Natalie next time
Amazing vid man. Have you done anything to beef up your steering. I’m on the fence about 37’s for my BB sas
Thanks! And no, I haven't added anything, but I do carry spare tie rods at all times. I recommend using minimal lift. Lift increases the worst case loading scenarios on your suspension as much or more than just bigger tires. I would much rather replace tie rods than replace my steering gear. I know some people have had good luck with braces and other add-ons but its not worth the risk to me. I off-road about as hard as I can, but I use my steering angle and skinny pedal conservatively whenever I am in big flex/rocky situations. If you are set on getting lift for the look, I recommend doing it with springs/perch collars so that you don't increase the droop (which can kill the tierods/steering gear). Puck/spacer lifts are a major risk factor for breaking stuff if offroading. I did end up using a 2/3" level spacer on the front (not ideal), I would go no more than 1" under any circumstances. Any higher and I would rather do a more comprehensive kit that keeps my steering geometry safer/flatter.
@@mattg8116 Really appreciate your response. I actually have an SVC 2” perch collar lift and since I have a BB I don’t disconnect the sway bar. That said, I do wheel with what I have, but nothing too crazy. I do have a RC tie rod sleeves and I’m probably gonna buy the steering bushings too. I always keep spare tie-rods, but more worried about the rack
I can see where front hits the wheel arch.
It's very close! But that's the max up travel fully flexed out. It has plenty of down travel left, thanks to not having a lift kit
What are your impressions with the 2.3L. Trying to decide if its worth the extra cost for the 2.7L.
It does not lack for power in any way for offroading. But if you have a lead foot and like to get into it for fun daily driving the 2.7 is probably the right choice. I drive conservatively on road and save the rowdiness for offroading and the 2.3 is great for that.
@@mattg8116 I appreciate the info! I go on plenty of road trips usually carrying a full 4 people so its good to know its not really lacking any power for real use. I'll save the spirited driving for a sports car 😆
I did and the 2.7 is worth it 30 000 miles later.
Especially if you get >91octane and unlock sport mode (forscan)
What wheel/rim combo is that?
MAXXIS Trepador Radial 37x12.5 on 17" Black Rhino Avenger beadlocks in gray. The gray was actually a great match for cactus gray!
I was also looking at the MAXXIS RAZR MT and the Black Rhino Primm. Would have looked and worked great as well.
Thanks man
thank you for the reply everyone has a opinion and its the easy way to learn lol
Daaaam i love how it looks , what’s the offset on those wheels ? Hgd
0mm Offset. I would prefer something slightly positive but its very hard to find beadlocks (other than the OEM) that are positive.
Products available here: www.brokeninnovation.com/
2.3l?
Yes, 2.3 manual
Bronco's are pretty sweet but for the money they cost Why no hardtop?
In terms of cost, you usually can't beat used right? but if you're looking at new specifically the Bronco is very competitively priced. I got mine for 48k and it's a badlands, you could do even better by getting a base with sasquatch. (4runners can easily be ordered for more, and not a single version has that level of off-road capability. and a Wrangler new isn't substantially cheaper either.)
As for the top. I placed my order back in spring of 2021 the exact moment order banks opened and at that time there was a significant delay in delivery for hardtops, so I opted for the soft top to get it sooner. I also like how easy it is to flip back.
Winch?
I have one now, Engo 12k synthetic with lobo hidden winch mount. Haven't had to use it yet though.
Wish i was rich enough to not care if i broke a 50k+ car. Damn lol
I’m pretty confident in the Bronco’s capability! Haven’t broken anything yet, but even if I did, it would be worth it. Life’s too short to buy a cool car and park it in a showroom
Do you have a spacer lift?
Yes, in this video I have 2 of the 3 spacers for the RC 1" front level installed. Just 2 spacers raised it almost an inch. I needed a bit of lift because the Badlands non sasquatch doesn't limit up-travel as much as sas (this is good for wheel travel) but I needed to clear the body with true 37's. I also wanted to keep the spacer lift to a minimum to be as conservative as possible for the CV's and tie rods.
Why do you hit so much of it so fast ?
Life is short my man! I try not to me too reckless but I don't want to spend all day at 0.1 mph either
@@mattg8116 life is short. So spend hours on the trail doing repairs due to recklessness 🤣🤣
@@AustinH7 Is there a particular part of the video you guys are referring to? Because it was honestly pretty tame. Was it backing off the muddy ledge? Or going 1-2mph through the rock garden? I mean it was nothing crazy. I dont even have the tie rod splints and havent busted a thing.
@@mattg8116 I was just joking about people in general driving fast on the trail. Should have made that more clear. You did good on the obstacles 👍🏻
Take a tape measure and do a height check on those so called 37's. Where's the lift kit? Needs one badly. Freaking mall cruisers LOL.
Name a common daily drivable 37" bigger than the Trepador... I'll wait. Why does one require a lift to wheel? I prefer better chassis dynamics/flex/strength. Why? Because I actually wheel it, pretty hard. I have a whole video up on doing poison spider bone stock, and obviously I don't film every adventure, I simply included a couple videos from adding the 37's to be informative to others.
BTW mall crawlers are exclusively lifted rigs, you know this. We call them mall crawlers generally because they are lifted (often making suspension performance worse in key ways) and they never take it off road. (What's this video again?) Word of advice, if you hear metal on rock, it's not crawling at the mall...
I'm curious why you thought it was worth your time to comment such negativity on a little channel that's just got a few fun videos... Grow up, get a stupid little cheap mall crawler lift for your Bronco so you can feel big and tough and move on.
Way too little lift and way too much tire.
Any lift more than necessary is too much lift. It's not about the money, it's about optimizing wheel travel and suspension geometry. I'm not interested in building a jacked up rig that has no travel and three wheels over everything. But thank you for your thoughts.
@@mattg8116
Exactly and this is WAY below what's necessary.
Your very welcome.
I hope it doesn't take to long before you can afford the bare minimum lift.
Best wishes.
@@charleshenson4183 Respectfully, you don't know what you are talking about. If you did, you would have said about 0.5-1". With an equivalent diff drop. The only thing I'm limited in functionally is a full send jump. Since I'm not interested in that right now, this IS the bare minimum that IS fully functional. Low speed articulation does not contact body. Any lift, including full coilovers (which I can afford) will only raise my ride height and drive me closer to full rebound which is terrible for CVs, ride, and functionality off road. If I wanted to be tiptoed out and have no flex off road, I'd buy a Defender.
I'll break it down: Tires are king off-road. After that it's wheel travel. After that it gets pretty subjective. It's frankly absurd how many people think you need to be on a 3" coilover lift to run 37's, it's baloney and you break more stuff for a slight advantage in break over, and huge disadvantage in true legitimate usable wheel travel.
If you can afford the lift I suggest you enroll in a vehicle dynamics course at a local engineering school between wheeling sessions. Also, perhaps reexamine why you thought it was worth your time to tell somebody on their own video on a small channel that their build was wrong LOL!
If you are talking about builds with increased wheel travel with either portals or a multi inch diff drop and appropriate coil overs, sure that's awesome, and absolutely not step one on my build... Do you even have a Bronco? Do you realize how easy it is to put 37's on while still retaining full wheel travel? This isn't a 4Runner that needs a friggin lift for 33's lol
@@mattg8116
I would never go the route you did,but apparently your happy with it and that's all that matters.
@@charleshenson4183 Opinions are like assh0les, everyone has one, take a hike.
sasquatch package with 37" cool ...do you have lift of any kind and what's off set on your wheels lastly why no 37" spare with carrier re -enforcement
Non sas actually, just badlands. A bit more wheel travel, but that means more clearance issues. No real lift kit, just 2/3rds of the RC 1" level kit (comes with 3 spacers). That's all I needed to clear the body with flares removed during full articulation. I do rub the wheel liners a bit but nothing catastrophic, I preferred less lift for better suspension geometry and CV angles. If you want to jump it, you would want more lift. As for the tailgate I have seen no evidence that I need reinforcement, I'm a less is more kinda guy. I do have extensions for the tire support bushings but that's it. Wheels are 0 offset, I would have preferred +25-35 (would probably be better for wheel liner clearance) but there are almost no beadlocks in that offset range.