That white plastic section that comes with the filter is used to drain the filter housing before unscrewing it making it less sloppy. Push it up into the hole under the plug you remove with the 3/8' socket driver and it will drain the oil in the filter housing. Great video thanks for posting!
@@GtPRiCH NO, YOU DIDNT DO IT... Yes you removed the drain plug but you did not insert the plastic drain (that came with the filter element) into the oil filter cap to drain it. You should have watched multiple other videos on this subject first or found some written instructions.
Kudos for the video content! Sorry for butting in, I am interested in your thoughts. Have you heard the talk about - Parlandealey Vanish Ringworm Process (just google it)? It is a great one off product for revealing how to repair your vehicle minus the normal expense. Ive heard some pretty good things about it and my old buddy Taylor at last got cool results with it.
You didn’t talk about gasket replacement or the white plastic tool that is used to drain the filter. If you don’t want to use the filter drain then it isn’t necessary to remove the filter drain cap.
@@GtPRiCH Guess you didn't read the instructions. There is a plastic service pipe that comes with the new filter that you have to insert to cause it to drain.
This is NOT a conventional oil filter and does not work best with an oil filter wrench designed for canister spin-on filters. The tool for this type of filter is specific to the make/manufacturer of the vehicle. Don't buy a wrench that is designed only to fit the number of flutes and the diameter of the unthreaded end of the cap. Buy one that is designed for specific filter on your vehicle. Consider the Motivx brand. There are two wrenches designed for Toyotas as shown here... www.amazon.com/Motivx-Tools-Filter-Wrench-Vehicles/dp/B078RHZP9M/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Motivx+2320+2321&qid=1585937597&sr=8-3 Pick the one that is for your vehicle and buy it.
What do you mean? Since someone I know died from a jack-collapse, doesn't mean it's not a good idea! LOL. I always laugh at these YT videos showing the average Joe how to do something, when they can't even get the basics right. This video is a joke tutorial.
He should use jack stands and a jack. I doubt he’d get hurt from a jack collapse since the vehicle is an SUV with the tires still on. He forgot to change the crush washer.
@@njsongwriter I ageed with all of your points, except this one. Don't believe everything you hear on the BS internet. I was an apprentice, and we used to laugh when we would change oil that was still golden and viscous on newer cars. This is the biggest waste of money, and is bad for the environment. Do you really think that engines "beat up" oil the same from day one, vs day 10,001? Do you really think that all drivers are the same, and their climate/situations are the same? So how can a manual (or a computer) tell you that every ____ kms or miles to change your oil? I remember my Acura RSX manual maintenance schedule saying that in Canada, change your oil every 8000 kms. In the USA, change it every 16000 kms. LOL, so as soon as you cross the border, your engine will last twice as long on the same schedule? Remember that every recommendation by the manufacture is the safest recommendation they can make. But use your common sense... Why would you ever change oil that is still golden and viscous? The oil itself, will tell you whether or not it needs to be changed. 80's cars used to say every 5000kms/ 3000 miles and chunks of metals used to drop into the oil pans with the severely black oil we were changing. Common sense is still your best bet. Fuck manufacturers recommendations, and REALLY FUCK what people say on the net.
Now recommended to use the newer ILSAC GF-6A rated oil (full synthetic of course). Better protective qualities than previous ILSAC GF-5 full synthetic oil
Why's that son? Because you read it somewhere on the net, or is because you're one of the techs that did this research? LOL. I appreciate your research and your obedience to your forums, but when recommending things on the net, be prepared to come with your data. I used to work for Exide and people thought Craftsman batteries were amongst the the best, but Exide was garbage. Little did they know, that Exide provided ALL Craftsman batteries for Sears Inc. You would be shocked that ALL oil and synthetic oil comes from one of three companies. And even then, those three companies resource from the same place. Fucking internet people.
@@cavecanem1741 If you are saying this I guess you haven't discovered all the people who will testify to the fact that mechanics often over-torque these filters to the point that multiple oil filter cap wrenches get broken while trying to change the filter and many of those so-called mechanics work at the dealership. Evidently they have the same attitude as you do.
The oil filter cap = 18 lb.ft. which is considerably less than the drain plug on the engine's oil pan. The drainbolt on the oil filter cap should only be 9 lb.ft. If you wish to use this to drain the filter then yes, it is important NOT to over-torque it because then the entire oil filter cap will come off when you try to remove it.
That white plastic section that comes with the filter is used to drain the filter housing before unscrewing it making it less sloppy. Push it up into the hole under the plug you remove with the 3/8' socket driver and it will drain the oil in the filter housing. Great video thanks for posting!
Yeah i did that and only a few small drops came out
I don't know that thanks for the info.
@@GtPRiCH
NO, YOU DIDNT DO IT... Yes you removed the drain plug but you did not insert the plastic drain (that came with the filter element) into the oil filter cap to drain it.
You should have watched multiple other videos on this subject first or found some written instructions.
@@stevensevek6151 got it thanks
Kudos for the video content! Sorry for butting in, I am interested in your thoughts. Have you heard the talk about - Parlandealey Vanish Ringworm Process (just google it)? It is a great one off product for revealing how to repair your vehicle minus the normal expense. Ive heard some pretty good things about it and my old buddy Taylor at last got cool results with it.
Thanks for sharing. This looks to be your first oil change on your '17 NX.
You didn’t talk about gasket replacement or the white plastic tool that is used to drain the filter. If you don’t want to use the filter drain then it isn’t necessary to remove the filter drain cap.
where did u buy the Oil Filter Wrench Cap Removal Tool from?
Did you ever get an answer
@@traceyousey1865 no answer , I found what tool i need and got it from Amazon. =)
forgot to mention the pos filter housing tends to crack since it's plastic. you can get an aluminum housing but they're harder to find.
Am I correct or did I miss something? You removed the oil filter drain plug but didn't drain the oil filter? Why remove the drain plug?
Nothing came out
You are supposed to put the plastic drain off first, that’s why. Use jack stands too there guy, be safe. Also don’t overfill oil!
@@GtPRiCH
Guess you didn't read the instructions. There is a plastic service pipe that comes with the new filter that you have to insert to cause it to drain.
@@njsongwriter nothing came out
What is the size of the oil filter socket? 64mm?
Yes. www.princessauto.com/en/detail/64-mm-cap-style-oil-filter-socket/A-p8597619e
This is NOT a conventional oil filter and does not work best with an oil filter wrench designed for canister spin-on filters. The tool for this type of filter is specific to the make/manufacturer of the vehicle. Don't buy a wrench that is designed only to fit the number of flutes and the diameter of the unthreaded end of the cap. Buy one that is designed for specific filter on your vehicle. Consider the Motivx brand. There are two wrenches designed for Toyotas as shown here...
www.amazon.com/Motivx-Tools-Filter-Wrench-Vehicles/dp/B078RHZP9M/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Motivx+2320+2321&qid=1585937597&sr=8-3
Pick the one that is for your vehicle and buy it.
hey bro i have a 2015 lexus nx200t f sport . what oil is better mobile 1 or pennzoil
Mobile
@@GtPRiCH why is that ? i kinda wanna try penzoil
@@GtPRiCH thanks for the fast response bro
Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra Platinum and Mobile 1 full synthetic are now ILSAC GF-6A compliant so they should be the same in protective qualities.
Was the car only supported by the jack? Not very good idea.
What do you mean? Since someone I know died from a jack-collapse, doesn't mean it's not a good idea! LOL. I always laugh at these YT videos showing the average Joe how to do something, when they can't even get the basics right.
This video is a joke tutorial.
He should use jack stands and a jack. I doubt he’d get hurt from a jack collapse since the vehicle is an SUV with the tires still on. He forgot to change the crush washer.
How do you change engine air filter ?
I only did a oil change.. I'm not sure on where the filter is located. Im sure its other videos showing that process
Take out the old one and put in the new one...🤔
This the same for the is200t Im guessing ? 🤙
Yup
GtPRiCH are these reliable cars. I’m kinda wore because it’s turbo charged
@@f581474x yes
@@f581474x everything is turbo'd nowadays for efficiency. it doesn't have a boost gauge but it's not slamming 40psi my guy lol
What’s the mileage of your service?
This not my car... it had 15k on the dash when i did this change.. I'm sure it wasn't the first time tho
Does the turbo use the same oil cycle or is that a separate maintenance task?
Same
@@GtPRiCH Great, thanks.
If I had a turbo or GDI engine I would change the oil more often & I would use a low volatility oil.
@@njsongwriter I ageed with all of your points, except this one. Don't believe everything you hear on the BS internet. I was an apprentice, and we used to laugh when we would change oil that was still golden and viscous on newer cars. This is the biggest waste of money, and is bad for the environment. Do you really think that engines "beat up" oil the same from day one, vs day 10,001? Do you really think that all drivers are the same, and their climate/situations are the same? So how can a manual (or a computer) tell you that every ____ kms or miles to change your oil? I remember my Acura RSX manual maintenance schedule saying that in Canada, change your oil every 8000 kms. In the USA, change it every 16000 kms. LOL, so as soon as you cross the border, your engine will last twice as long on the same schedule? Remember that every recommendation by the manufacture is the safest recommendation they can make. But use your common sense... Why would you ever change oil that is still golden and viscous? The oil itself, will tell you whether or not it needs to be changed. 80's cars used to say every 5000kms/ 3000 miles and chunks of metals used to drop into the oil pans with the severely black oil we were changing.
Common sense is still your best bet. Fuck manufacturers recommendations, and REALLY FUCK what people say on the net.
Now recommended to use the newer ILSAC GF-6A rated oil (full synthetic of course). Better protective qualities than previous ILSAC GF-5 full synthetic oil
You should tell the owner to use mobile 1 extended instead of Pennzoil, I hear that pennzoil isn’t all that great.
Don't believe everything you HEAR.
Pennzoil had problems a number of years back. Now they are fine especially their Ultra Platinum Plus.
Why's that son? Because you read it somewhere on the net, or is because you're one of the techs that did this research? LOL. I appreciate your research and your obedience to your forums, but when recommending things on the net, be prepared to come with your data. I used to work for Exide and people thought Craftsman batteries were amongst the the best, but Exide was garbage. Little did they know, that Exide provided ALL Craftsman batteries for Sears Inc.
You would be shocked that ALL oil and synthetic oil comes from one of three companies. And even then, those three companies resource from the same place. Fucking internet people.
TypeSly Awe are you butthurt little snowflake or is it soypussy now ?
It is incomplete without torque values for all threaded connections.
If you need torque values for an oil change you probably should leave this to a professional
@@cavecanem1741
If you are saying this I guess you haven't discovered all the people who will testify to the fact that mechanics often over-torque these filters to the point that multiple oil filter cap wrenches get broken while trying to change the filter and many of those so-called mechanics work at the dealership. Evidently they have the same attitude as you do.
@@stevensevek6151 No, I haven't found them Steve
Actually the specified torque is on the oil filter cap.
The oil filter cap = 18 lb.ft. which is considerably less than the drain plug on the engine's oil pan.
The drainbolt on the oil filter cap should only be 9 lb.ft. If you wish to use this to drain the filter then yes, it is important NOT to over-torque it because then the entire oil filter cap will come off when you try to remove it.
Your video should just be titled: "AHHHH just change the Goddamn oil and filter!" Who cares about all the "little" details?