How Much Power Does My Supercharged Honda S2000 Make?
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- Dyno Testing/Tuning A Supercharged Honda S2000 - Stage 1 SOS Kit
Supercharger Install Honda S2000 - • Supercharging My Honda...
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Before stomping the throttle in my newly supercharged S2000, it's important to make sure that the tune is working appropriately, and that the vehicle is getting the correct amount of air and fuel when needed. To do this, I headed to Throttle Works to put the S2000 on a dyno and measure air/fuel ratios, and to adjust as needed.
Ideally, the supercharged engine will maintain an AFR in the range of 11.5:1 to 12:1 when on boost. The car ran 4 full throttle runs to verify the kit maps were working appropriately, and to accurately measure horsepower and torque. How much power did it make? Were any adjustments needed? What tweaks could allow for more horsepower? Is it safe to drive hard? All of these questions answered in the video!
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She's supercharged!!! A couple comments to address many of the common questions below. First, engine horsepower vs wheel horsepower. S2000's are 240HP at the crank from the factory, probably around 190-200ish at the wheels (my stock car measured in the 180's). Explained more here: ua-cam.com/video/BOFVnkrkQ6k/v-deo.html. Second, saying "other kits get you more HP reliably" is just regurgitating marketing talk. A kit's purpose is to provide packaging assistance, and ultimately boost. Any kit can do this. It's how fuel, air, and ignition timing are controlled that ultimately dictate reliability (doesn't matter if the kits home-made or $20,000). And comparing kits at different PSI is silly. With any of these supercharger kits (regardless of who makes it), additional power is easy to achieve by swapping supercharger pulleys. If I put on a 9 psi pulley, it has 9 psi at the top end. It would need standalone ECU and new injectors, but from there you're really just choosing a pulley size and picking the amount of boost you feel comfortable throwing at the engine. Hope everyone's having an awesome day!! Loving the supercharge kit, and a video driving coming soon! Instagram is a great place for intermediary content: instagram.com/engineeringexplained/
Engineering Explained this isn't a criticism, but I was wondering why you chose a supercharger over a turbocharger?
Are you going to get a tune?
Engineering Explained These engines handle 750whp reliably. Get a bigger pulley and increase boost. Go with e85 conversion if that makes you sleep better. E85 resist detonation and you get even more power but at cost of using more fuel. 700whp should easy unless your supercharger and fuel holds you back. It probably will. Get the biggest injectors and highest flowing fuel pump/pumps possible.
Those f series engine are forged so internals don't break even at 1000whp. If something happens it's due to a bad tune. A bad tune can even break any engine. Replace the supercharger with a turbo kit when you get bored of the power. Should be a fun car regardless.
What year is this?
Dude, you are such a smart guy and your videos are super interesting. What a truly great service you’re doing for the community! You just break it down so well and make things so easy to understand. You also pick the perfect topics.
DJ-TRAXX really appreciate the kind words, glad you enjoy it and thank you so much for watching!
Well I'll break it down a little further ... A wideband is a must. Period. Equally as important is being able to do data logs. You have no way of seeing the timing or ST/LT knock. That spot where it's going rich could be the ecu sensing knock and pulling timing (probably not in the case). It's basically running the car blind. The tuning setup on that car right now is primitive. How do you know your car isn't knocking at 12.0 AFR at that altitude/temperature and with the fuel your using? I'm sure that tune has safety's built in and is running mild timing to make it plug and play and safe..but still. Having the ability to see what the car is doing and being able to make fuel and timing adjustments is a very very powerful tool. Not just for performance but for diagnostics aswell... I never dabbled with Hondas but with alot of other vehicles you don't need an expensive standalone either. Diablosport for srt4s is a good example of a much less expensive and less complicated alternative. Either way it's a nice setup you got and a nice car but you there's no reason to be using that tune when you can afford something much better. Then get some injectors and a fuel pump, a smaller pulley and whatever else you need for e85 lol
@@KrustyQuad Geez he has explained what he is doing and why, don't be so keen to spout your knowledge. You mention Diablosport but don't elaborate which may have been useful.
Get another BUNG!!! ;) I bet she is a blast to drive WOT!
HumbleMechanic thank you for helping another youtuber
or spray the surface with h20
I wasnt talking about N20, i meant just water for evaporative cooling. There is also this other thing, MeOH/H2O injection into the intake (after the intercooler)
You don't need another bung, all you need is a wideband that has a narrow band output. Take the narrow band output splice it into the positive for the O2 sensor, then put two 10 ohms 10 watt resistors inline for the heater circuit. Then you have one bung in your exhaust for the lambda O2 sensor and your ECU still gets the info it needs and you will not get a CEL. I used an old O2 sensor harness for this so it is reversible.
Maybe this bung is referencing for valvecover port to reduce more crankcase pressure/blowby
As someone with an AP2 and having seriously looked at the SOS Stage 1 Supercharger kit, THANK YOU for taking the time to show how in depth the install is and how complete the kit is and what sort of realistic gains to expect.
jeepilot just go stage 2 with 1200 novi
Unfortunately I live in an area that is emissions tested (OBDII only, no sniffer), and the stand-alone engine management that is required for Stage 2 wouldn't work so well. That, and I'm not looking for an insane increase, something just just give a little more grunt.
jeepilot where? Cali?
Mine with same kit, Mustang Dyno, 191 baseline, 306 after. I have an exhaust, though, and testing was at sea level at 95F. I would expect your torque to be climbing more than it is after 6000; check for belt slippage. I definitely recommend a wideband, as I bet you're running a bit rich (I bet right at 10:1). Welding the bung on was an easy thing, took an exhaust shop about 15 minutes. My kit ran super rich out of the box, probably to compensate for dirty injectors. I'm actually considering raising my boost level to 7PSI as I believe clean injectors have the capacity for it.
Your AFR spike in the mid-range is a common enough issue; SOS has an "alternate" tune for the FVM controller specifically for this issue. I've had this kit for 6 years, and it's very reliable and easy to maintain. It also passes emissions checks easily.
nice info.
Thanks for sharing! Boost has a nice curve, so no indication of slipping belt. Measured 6 psi around 8500ish.
Great. You're probably running 10:1 (possibly less) at the top end. I think when you get that right you'll be really close to 300, possibly more! I got an AEM wideband with gauge; you'll find you need to do a "twice a year" tweak to fuel pressure as the seasons change, but it's not a big deal. You're basically building my car (MY02, blue with blue top), which is fun to watch. Great series. Have fun with it all, as the S2000 turned into the hypothetical S3000 is a really great car to own!
Have you changed internals?
If you put enough stickers on it, you can get it to 300 hp
POWARD BY VTECH
Great analysis of the dyno charts.
its good that you acknowledge the difference between dynos. a lot of people think everything reads like a dynojet
Damn, the humble mechanic really hooked you up proper!
As I posted on your last video: You don't need another bung, all you need is a wideband that has a narrow band output. Take the narrow band output splice it into the positive for the O2 sensor, then put two 10 ohms 10 watt resistors inline for the heater circuit. Then you have one bung in your exhaust for the lambda O2 sensor and your ECU still gets the info it needs and you will not get a CEL. I used an old O2 sensor harness for this so it is reversible.
I used the Innovate kit, it has the wideband output 5v-1.1v, narrowband 1.1v-0.1v and a datalogger port. Doing what I am posting about makes it so you do not need to permanently modify your exhaust or wire harness.
I walked out of my court hearing for this
I live in California. There is no god here.
God is there, he's just waiting for all the good to evacuate so he can set it on fire.
MavHunter20XX How Christian of you.
Derek B lmao!
MavHunter20XX
What a father
Just got a 02 s2000 and ur videos have been helping me with building plans for her. Thank you:)
It's great how easy it has become to get more power with aftermarket kits. (With good ones) :D Nice
They had these 20 years ago lol.
Where are all these canyons you are always talking about?
Hello Everyone and Welcome
Its been like 3 years since i first watch your vids
Good job sir!
All people see is number. This man right here is actually trying to learn every step and why everything happens. Unlike some people who just have a shop or they’re homie install it for them hoping it’s good
Nice gain! You're gonna feel that in the seat of the pants! The numbers don't look like a huge gain, but considering the weight of the car, it should make quite a difference!
rigormortis08 I shudder to think of what absolute monster you must drive to say 80 HP looks like a small gain
Joshua Barkey Lol. I was saying that looking at strictly the numbers, many people don't see 80hp as a big gain. Especially for people used tp driving 4000lb cars. With the lighter weight of the s2000, that 80hp will feel like a much larger gain than just the numbers show.
rigormortis08 Fair enough. I just drive a 90HP 2,200 pound civic, so 80 HP is pretty big to me
rigormortis08 gotta look at more of how much a percentage it is, which is 40%. Which is huge lol like adding 200hp to a 500hp car.. big difference.
Stefan Rose that's exactly what I was saying. It's a big gain for a small engine and a light car, comparable to a larger gain in a heavier car. I was pointing out that many people will just see 80hp and roll their eyes, when in reality the gain is something Jason is definitely going to notice!
I like that you emphasize the power curve so much over the peak power numbers. People only look at the peak numbers and neglect the power curve as the advantage.
Jason I cant belive youre making us wait for the next video to hear that amazing supercharger noise. I thought you were nice...
3:15 look at the smooth VTEC engagement with the boost. Nice!
the fact engine dyno's make or record different hp outputs is amazing to me. its out put or its not.
Great video as always Jason! As an owner of a supercharged Audi S4, I approve. Superchargers are rare these days and I can't believe the new S4 ditched it (and dual clutch) for a turbo!
Awesome results, quick insight, sometimes 11.5 air fuel down low will make more torque, leaning it out to a 12.5 till more boost comes in would probably make more horsepower but less torque, you might be surprised a lot of motors will make the same power 11.5-12.5 air fuel, just food for thought
Sloppy Mechanics 👍
Makes sense, more fuel does make the air/fuel mix more dense. But at the end of the day, every car is different.
have you found your next car to LS swap now ;)
I put my Civic on a Mustang dyno in Lake Placid, NY at Moon Performance and am totally sold on the use of a Mustang rather than a DynoJet. The guys at the shop were awesome and explained the difference between the two extremely well and why Mustang numbers are lower. Also, getting that thing to spit out a number above 100 horsepower was hard, but we saw 100.1 on my third run!
Hondata... and a pulley change
all the boost
Don’t believe Hondata is compatible with the AP1.
Should be able to switch to an AP2 ECU and convert to electric throttle though.
I really like the F-series engine that comes in the S2000. I think it's one of the only engines in production that comes with aluminum rods. Only thing I would be concerned with is the transmission they're kind of a weak link once you start making a lot of torque.
You can get a Hondata, but it's an ECU replacement that uses the RSX-S ECU. It's about $2K and 6 hours of labor to replace various sensors, including the crank sensor.
Stephen Baker or u can use ballade sports hondata kpro conversion so u dont need to change any sensors with rsx-s ecu.
Good point on psi on different compressors. People forget that cfm or lbs per min can be vastly different between 2 different centrifugal compressors 10 psi delivering 550 cfm won't make as much power as one delivering 750 cfm at 10 psi.
with an engine reving to 8800 you wouldnt even bother fine tuning at the 3k rpm level...any racing you would do you wouldnt even let it go below that
SuperJlonergan good point
SuperJlonergan for launching maybe? And daily driving
It's a street car too..
For racing yes, I agree.. But, I think Jason was going for a comfortable and reliable daily driver with weekend racing performance included too.. So, tuning it across the RPM range is a good idea.
IDK, my rotary engine (9500 rpm max stock) feels really sluggish at 3k rpm. I get left in the dust in any launch. Usually I can't make up the distance fast enough so they can see the beautiful jets of flames when I shift into second.
The other option is smoking my clutch at 6k rpm launch, but I can smell it miles later, so I don't really like that option... Low end power would be nice to have too sometimes.
I’ve seen all your videos since you first reviewed your STI. It’s been really cool to learn more about cars and see the progress in your S2k. I’m really stoked for you.
3" straight pipe next ;) like a true Honda owner
Hood exit upside down header.
better than the $2500 Titanium exhaust for sure
my friend had that setup.... I rode with 'em on an all day cruise with the s2k club, lets just say I lost hearing for a few days after, but it sounded INSANE going through tunnels!
3.5”
nahh, just weld some 6" tin can on the rear
The Brian coxs of cars and engineering 👍👍
Instead of using an exhaust probe to measure fuel trims after the catalytic converter, why not use the short term fuel trim from OBD2 data? It’s got to be a lot more accurate than estimating after the converters.
These cars don't have a wideband O2 sensor. They'll measure stoich/not stoich well enough, but a wideband at the tail is more accurate. A wideband before the cat is more accurate still.
Whoda Hellru
Some day, could you investigate the proper and improper application of dielectric grease? I've always been under the impression it's fine to apply in and around connectors as the wiping force is going to wipe away the dielectric grease between the two pieces of metal (and the grease surrounding the contact will prevent air/corrosion from affecting the contact). My 80's Japanese cars (with poor connector designs) have dielectric grease in their connectors while my late model vehicles dont. You always hear people chiming in that dielectric grease between contacts adds resistance, on the other hand, so does oxidation. Cheers!
That HP curve is curious. I thought the supercharger would help as much or more at low RPM as at high, in contrast to a turbo which has a slight spool-up lag. This curve looks like a turbo-charged curve, rather than a supercharged curve.
alliejr it's a centrifugal supercharger. Not a roots style blower.
Thanks for clarification.
UA-cam Connected was not aware of that! Cool
My car has a roots supercharger, can confirm I can get full boost at 2500-3k rpm. Lots of torque, BUT lots of load on the engine when you do that.
Its a centrifugal supercharger, thus its not positive displacement compressor. The curve is like in-between turbocharger and roots type supercharger.
Fellow SC'd s2k owner. I strongly encourage at least 10 PSI and a flex fuel setup. It'll still be daily friendly and will transform the driving experience. I'm at 500+ whp E85 (stock exhaust/test pipe/22 psi/built block) and daily drive/road trip with zero problems.
Cool now to another few years until he does the ECU
Hahaha, most likely case!
Thanks for taking the time to upgrade to different stages. I totally agree with the fact that that makes it even more interesting to see
"Too soon junior"
This s the proper way of boosting an s2000, as it keep it's high revving nature, awesome result Jason.
would it be faster if it was black?
No, it'd just stop working
Not only that, but it would look bigger too
grandmasterii no coz compare it to a normal sc it has just a single layer the material of the sc if it was black it will be harder coz the paint will not help it cooldown (based on the black intercoolers video)
not black but red duh
Max Power i was saying "if it were black"
Really enjoying watching the build and of course the way you explain it!
Honda SVTEC!!!
Your dyno graph really amazing .
Keep going master.
Honestly I was expecting way more but I mean 6 psi of boost is literally nothing, you definitely should have at least 10 psi of boost. You might also want to throw a Hondata ECU there.
He'll be around 300 when he tunes it right. A Hondata is $2K plus a lot of labor.
80HP gains, literally nothing!
Stephen Baker I don’t know where you got that number from but a Hondata for an AP1 S2000 costs about $695 which isn’t that expensive for an ECU that increases performance.
get a used plug and play haltech goes for around 900 to 1000
Man really you’re in my area never knew that. Glad to see someone local on here doing good in the car community
Hi I have a S2000 myself. Been watching your journey quite a while. Recently I found a aftermarket manufacturer making carbon fibre drive shaft for S2000. Does that makes a actual difference in performance for the S2000? Those marketing materials seems astonishing but i am in doubt. Hope you have time to make a video explaining that. 😁
I don't think there's a need to buy new driveshafts unless you've messed with everything else.
What the top comment said
A reduction in drive line mass will improve acceleration (a tiny bit) but won't change how much horsepower gets to the wheels. It would be very expensive (I assume) for very little gain.
You usually only see gains from that part if you've really gone all out everywhere else, and it also depends on how fast the gearing has the shaft spinning. You really need to accelerate quite rapidly for the original driveshaft to be holding you back.
It will make a tiny bit of difference, which is critical for racing but for a street car no more then bragging rights.
Jason, as per your normal.. the information and delivery is spot on. Thank you for sharing your awesomeness.
Please route that Air Filter to the front so your not using Hot Air
IIGrayfoxII There should be enough cool air coming in for it not to matter much except when stationary, besides it has a air to water charge cooler anyway. You're putting a bit more load on the cooler, but not much compared to the heat from compressing the air.
Same +1
Awesome work! And also very interesting that u don't go crazy like hell at the beginning, it's way more fun to see this beautiful peace of car getting more and more power step by step 😁
265, eh? Nice! Ready to race my 05 GTO yet?
I think you just saved me 10 mins thank you!
Cars Simplified hahahahaha he actually bought a pontiac.
my Granny has that same old car!... we call it the Vista cruiser cause its so big
Down a straight line? All you. Course with corners? That heavy boat is getting crushed. All the while consuming a third amount of fuel, cruising with the top down. But hey, you'll be a lot louder!
I'm in the middle of upgrading the suspension, so we are both making videos about fixing the weak points of our cars. I feel like a road course would be a fun close match.
I really enjoy your videos, pure facts and results with proven explanations. Thank you for the high quality content.
Happy to hear it, thanks for watching!
Still waiting for that whine🎵🎵🎵🎵
No whine with centrifugal superchargers. They sound more like a turbo charger since its like turbocharging in design.
V8Flexin aww damn 😢😢😕
Ha! You missed out on the glory days of side mount superchargers with straight cut gears. Damn did they sound tough... I mean my 347 stroker had twin 2.5" pipes with one cat and a straight through muffler either side, a straight cut gear noise *and* a blow off valve. The Saturday night boys knew when I was coming, that's for sure
Didn't read enough UA-cam comments?
Skippy they still make centrifugal superchargers with straight cut gears like the procharger F1 & F1A. Was planning on putting one on my 2000 gt with Mach 1 swap before I got my Shelby. But those F1A prochargers are hella loud and I don't know if I could handle that noise every time I drive. However under boost they sound like a jet engine.
Here's where a drop-in standalone ECU (like a Hondata) comes in and gives back total control. Even piggybacks that might shift the VTEC point, but the stock ECU would still be running the "wrong" ignition and fueling map for the required cam profile.
1 atm = 14.7 psi
Cole Robbins at sea level
Yeah, he said about 15. 15 is fine for "back of the envelope" calculations. Like acceleration due to gravity. 10m/s²
AlanS10 he said 15 at sea level, which to me is too innacurate of an approximation.
Temperature, humidity, regional pressure shifts, altitude... With that much variance, 15 is pretty good. I live in Oklahoma (Tornado Alley), and the pressure swings we have here daily are insane. Its like going to the 3.14159 on pi when really, 3 is close enough for a lot of things.
As always very clear explanations like all your videos and congrats on a boosted s2000 now, thats awsome keep it up thank you for sharing
"A bit more conservative and a bit more realistic."
Political stance revealed
Well, he does live in Idaho. It adds up.
Except that seems oxymoronic. Oh don't teach them about sex education except don't have sex and they wont have sex. Give only the wealthy huge tax cuts and it will trickle down. The death penalty is a good deterrent. I am a stable genius.
We weren't making a political statement, just a joke. Chill dude.
Conservative and liberal are used a lot when comparing fuel use.
+DaSovietPotato Which is ironic since Conservatives love to use liberal amounts of fuel and Liberals want to use fuel conservatively.
That thing must be ridiculously fun to drive! Totally jealous!!
methanol injection wouldn't hurt since your running the stock high compression.
Awesome! I've done a lot of these dyno comparisons for my BRZ & FRS with various mods. Always cool to see the before / after overlays. Next step, real engine management 😁
But will it beat my honda?!... oh wait 🤔🤔🤔
This car stock was already a blast to drive, I bet it's ear-ear non-stop grinning now (or more accurately again).
moooooooooooooooooooooooore poooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooower
Well that settles it. Was gonna do an NA build on my '98 aerodeck, but ill chuck in a supercharger instead! Looks surprisingly easy to do. (thats after ive stopped it burning oil of course haha)
Your vids are epic BTW, thanks
10 psi or take it off lol
UA-cam Connected I have a turbocharged vehicle and I wouldn't dare live at 6psi. 10psi is where life begins lol
Nah 14.7 is too much , it's rougly 1 bar .
I’m running 16lbs in my sos kit.. 423whp
He's probably high compression that's why he's running 6. 10 psi should still be well within its parameters.
I am running stock 11:1 compression too.. you can run alot more boost than that on these engines
That body shop did a great job painting the front bumper. Looks good when the car is on the dyno
This fools runnin a honda 2000..
Thank you for doing it in steps, and sharing with us 😊
So V-TEC needs a supercharger for its full potential.
*ricer goes out and buys fake supercharger looking fan thing*
Ajmal Najath vtec should really have a turbo because you can run lots of psi at high rpms
cole s | That was a joke.
I love cars but dont have the knowledge. Thanks for giving me some.
I've learning all of what your doing to the s2000! Great job!
"does that make sense?" turning a glorious naturally aspirated car into a boosted cougher... and gaining "only" 80hp, uhm no.
why? whats the drawback other than a bit higher fuel consumption?
Adding boost to a glorious naturally aspirated engine , just makes it more glorious .
It'll should still have most of the original character, it's just turned up to 11. No turbo lag and little boost at lower RPMs. It loses the VTEC kick, but only because it's already making more power. The only problem is that I've found big power road cars to be more fun for the occasional blip, but less rewarding, cause to get it anywhere near the limit you're going at going to jail speeds. Whereas a sweet handling low power car can be more rewarding as you extract it's best at far saner speeds.
He’s adding conservative, reliable, power. He explained this in another video that he wants to continue to have reliability so it can be a regular driver. He also touched on it at the end of the video
What's funny is my average MPG went up after the SC install. Highway MPG is over 30 easily now, too. At lower RPMs with less throttle, it seems to be more efficient.
IAT control and CAI, will do you wonders,
A big heat exchanger and a reloacation of the intake will help you big time.
Wait, you give an answer to the question everybody had right at the start of the video instead of pulling everybody's chain for 45 min and then saying it in the last 5 seconds? Instant like. Rest of the video is great too
I love your vids. Science backed real data! Congratulations on all EE's success and keep up the content.
I've always understood that Mustang dyno's read lower cause they distort the tire more than a dyno jet (two small drums vs one big one).
Would be cool to see a video on all the different types of dyno's and how they work...
Not at all, a mustang dyno is a load bearing dyno and a dyno jet is a inertia dyno.
I sure miss my AP1 '01... killed by a boar that ran up from a ditch in the dark... 165,000 miles, man it still ran so strong...
Thank you so much for showing us your journey into tuning ! That's super interesting, imho.
great results for the stage 1 kit. that is a nice gain! Enjoy the gainz and rev it out on the track !
Regarding the rich AFR and fall off in power around 8300, you may actually not be getting full combustion under the high boost and high RPM. Under such conditions, your cylinder charge density is increasing due to the boost while your spark is getting weaker under high RPM due to the reduced dwell times on the coils. I had a similar situation while tuning a VW TSI. I kept chasing the situation with fuel map editing, but instead of increasing power, I would just end up throwing codes due to misfire. Closing the sparkplug gap helped, but lost a smidge of economy at lower revs.
S2000 with a Supercharger would be amazing . Lower torque numbers than I would expect but still a good increase.
Everyone commenting about how their uncle , brother , sister , dad , cousin , guy who knows a guy who saw a car that was faster/better just make a video and post a link . Until then you’re all just talk.
I had a friend in my autobody college class throw his S2k up on the dyno, he had bmw itb’s and drive by wire. Only, thing made 274whp and 190wtq. Blew everyone’s mind away and his for a NA 4 cylinder
After talking to Matt Harwood, marketing coordinator for Mustang Dynamometer he admits a chassis Dyno are not accurate and 95% of shops do not provide a proper air flow at corresponding RPM’s .
He actually said Steve Dinan shop has one of the most accurate Dyno’ in the business being in California I made a trip there and there is a major difference from the Dyno you used and there far more accurate and data gathered.
I think your car is producing more then what that place is capable of showing as that was the case with my car. Matt did say chassis Dyno’s do give a reasonable reading. But the same car run back to back on the same machine will give variable results.
Seeing the torque change on the graph is wild
I have really enjoyed this series and I am looking forward to more from this build.
Again. Love the video. From start to finish, very informative. You actually answered a few questions I had about this kit. Definitely think a standalone ECU would be the way to go with this kit. Now go tear up some canyon roads and if your ever in the Pacific northwest come to a few S2K meetings. Might I recommend the Mt. Baker run
A wide band would have been something I purchased before hand. A wide band and ECU are my first purchases if I plane to boost. The money you spend on an ECU and W/B will usually cover 2 or 3 dyno tunes depending on the shop. Might as well bring it to a finish on the first go eh.
I put W/B O2 sensor on my 04 Tacoma after the OEM part died and this truck is getting 19+ miles to the gallon with an odometer reading of 261,5xx miles. I haven't had a chance to test just highway miles yet. (everything is stock)The cost difference was literally $20.
Awesome video, I really like your methodology to get measurements after every modification. Looking forward to the next one!
For those wondering yes a turbo will make more power, but you have to think of cost and engineering the exhaust/intake piping and other things.. I'm guessing he paid roughly 3-4k for the supercharger kit at a guess a turbo for the same car is 5-7500 for maybe a 20-30hp peak higher at the same boost.
The thing that makes a turbo make more power is there is no belt to turn. That belt eats power to turn the gears and turbine wheel, at a guess 30-50hp wouldn't be unreasonable for that added friction.
You do lose exhaust efficiency with the turbo in the way and as long as there is no backpressure issues with the cat and stuff it'll eat about 20-30hp.
The one nice thing about belt driven superchargers like this is the boost curve is linear it does the same thing every single time, whereas a turbo might have boost issues down low because of the high rpm of this engine. He gets the side effect of the turbo housing efficiency with the belt driven accuracy.
If he wants to make more boost in the future ( and he will that siren song is coming) he can use a smaller pulley on the blower to make more boost or use a larger housing to add more airflow. I'm thinking with the linear curve that thing in the Idaho mountains will be a kick in the pants.
Hard to say the torque *if you can call it that in a s2000* would be more linear and in your southenr idaho mountains the vortec is probably the better choice, in portland where he is from turbo all day. Belt driven make the same boost at the same rpm so it's better for mountains
It's more a matter of physics and different ways to make boost.
Belt driven roots supercharger makes boost at low speeds to medium rpm. Low speed power and torque.
Belt driven turbo housing superchargers make boost in a linear fashion. They make low boost at low rpm and as rpm ramps up they make boost as the rpm rises, it makes them very consistent in tuning because if you are at 5000 rpm at load or no load it makes the same amount of boost. same at in this case 9000 rpm and so on.
A Turbine driven supercharger makes boost from exhaust movement thru the turbine housing and it's boost curve is based upon load on the engine vrs rpm.
Say at 5000 rpm you are at light load say on a roadcourse between transitions and when you come onto the straight you have 10% load on the engine and you whack*yes the technical term is whack the throttle* and ask for 100% power it takes a moment or 3 for a turbo to spool up and make boost we call this turbo lag it's not lag it's time to build intake pressure to make power you have to pressurize the piping and stuff it takes a second or two.
So on flat ground a turbo would work better at medium to higher speeds under a load
A vortech style blower is better for more curvey/hilly terrain because it makes boost no matter what at the same rpm all the time, with a 2l sized engine he's better off with the vortech in the idaho mountains because the boost is exactly the same no matter what you do.
A root blower is good for low speed intown use industrial applications where brute power is needed at lower rpm.
Which is best for you? Depends solely on how you drive and intend to use the vehicle.
I personally think he made the better choice for where he lives and if you ever get to southern idaho and deal with the terrain it'll make more sense.
Besides that it's a lot cheaper then a turbo and it's extra stuff you have to do.
As always, beautifully explained. Great video! Congratulations, Jason.
This would be largely irrelevant... but back in Forza 4 or 5 the S2000 was my favorite car to tune. The way it handles is just nice. I'd always supercharge it vs turbo charging it with I believe a centrifugal super charger as that yielded more torque in the mid range. It just felt more controllable and came out of corners faster.
Don't have a chance IRL to own a S2000 but if I did, I would probably do the same tune to it so there's more torque in the mid range.
Love this channel, you really get what the label says. Phenomenal job at explaining things
Solid numbers for a Mustang, man. As far as the Mustang vs. Dynojet comparison, it really all depends on your platform. I'm a Speed 3 guy and our "standard" is Dynojet. Virtually all of the folks with any experience in the community talk about power numbers in terms of this measure.
"Realistic" is a very subjectively loaded term. Some people would say the most realistic measure is power at the crank, because that's what the engine is really making. Others who like going by whp often say it's most realistic to do so because drivetrain losses are accounted for; thus they go by various dynos.
For me, the bottom line is this: going with what the general consensus in your platform's tuning community is best. If that's Mustang, speak in terms of Mustang; if it's Dynojet, speak in terms of Dynojet; the same for Dynapak, other dynos, etc. And it's important to remember that even with the exact same dyno type, your numbers will vary slightly due to calibration. Additionally, ambient conditions can have even a bigger impact that the variance between two different sites using the same type of dyno. My whp/wtq numbers, for instance, can sway by 30whp/30wtq between cold weather and our very hot Texas summers.
I live in boise and I'm so glad somebody has pronounced it name properly
Fantastic! Thank you for your step-by-step approach and testing.
So cool, i am glad everything works as it should!
Hey there Engineering Explained good to see the progress of your S2000 i personally have fallen in love with the color i.e. Yellow because yah its anyway my favorite color in person....Best Of Luck for Future Mods and Upcoming UA-cam videos 😊
Test pipe will help that rich spot when vtec kicks in! Exhaust flow/bottle neck has been documented.
A header will be an easy way to add that exhaust port you're looking for.. Great vids!
Very helpful! I'm tuning my 1936 motorcycle carb with a wideband O2 sensor atm. Good to know you can make good power in the fairly rich 11.4 - 12.2 AFR range.
You can get a kpro .stock ECU with a add on chip to it , you get almost all features of a stand alone ECU for a fraction of price a still on stock ecu for it to let you get emissions legal testing .
Will be a very fun car to drive now. It's around the same power as my s2000 with the hks supercharger kit.
Have fun with it now.
Jason, have you considered the possibility that the rich mixture at the very top end is due to your injector sizing? After ~90% duty cycle, most injectors are "static" and will just stay open. ECU is trying to keep them open for a finite amount of time per cycle but the injectors physically cannot do that, hence fuel is dumped.
Gotta love the 5252 HP/TQ crossover point. Nice gains brother!! I bet the car is a blast to drive now.