It's a pity we can only give a single "Thumbs Up" as you deserve better. Excellent video as usual Dale. I am really enjoying working through all the bike video's from oldest to newest.
Thanks Kevin, I sure appreciate that. That would sure make up for some of the thumbs down I get, LOL. Not sure why they watch if they don't like the videos. Thanks again.
Hi Dale! Just watch all your videos on the Yamaha! Good work!! I work on my 1982 RS125, and after seeing you i am inspired to take on my forks. Thanks!! Pål from Stockhol m Sweden.
Hi Pal, glad your getting some good out those videos. That's one of reasons i do them is to inspire others to their own maintenance. Thanks for your comment and for watchin.
Dale, I have watched all five of this series while doing my own AT1 engine rebuild and can't say enough how much I appreciate you taking the time to do these. I have referred often to your videos, and continue to do so as I near completion. So thank you. As an aside, going through what I am going through, I can't imagine how difficult it is to video this stuff, especially the transmission and shift drum insertion process. haha! Thanks again!
Thanks for the kind words David, I am glad folks are getting some good out of these videos. I enjoy working with these old bikes and making the videos. Yes as you are aware, holding all those parts, in neutral, and trying to stab them in place is a lot of fun for sure. Good luck with your project and thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
Hey thanks for your comment DJ. Not sure when I'm going to start the Big Horn. Actually I am starting with the seat pan straight away. Got a Suzuki TC125 coming in for a restoration and it's got priority. But i plan to get some of it in the mix right away. Thanks for watchin.
@@montana2strokeracer I live in New Zealand and we have a series of rides here for old bikes (& Old Blokes) called "Vinduro" which stands for vintage enduro. The era of bikes you work on are what some of us ride in this series, My buddy rides a '74 TS 400 Apache Suzuki most of the bikes are stock or with minor mods to brakes & suspension for safety & comfort reasons but we have had a guy turn up with his "Fuel Injected Bighorn" , but lots of Suzuki TS 185's & some early MX & DT Yamaha's compete often. Lots of fun & lots of nice people with nice old bikes........... I enjoy watching your video's I thought I would share that with you. Keep up the great work !!! Cheers :-)
Thanks for sharing your story DJ. I guess I could fit in, being an old bloke myself. It seems there is a lot of interest in these old bikes these days. I sure enjoy them. When my wife suggested doing these videos for something I was all ready doing. (Motorcycle restoration) I said, no one is going to watch some old guy working on old bikes. Well I have been overwhelmed. Folks like yourself sharing their story's, and their experiences with the bikes. It has been a wonderful experience for me, communicating with all the like minded people all over the world. I would love to see the fuel injected Big Horn, bet that is way cool. Hey thanks for sharing and watchin.
Hey thanks Larry, Yep Kevin is the best. And thank you sir for watching my stuff, hope it is entertaining at least. Thanks for the kind words and for watchin.
Hi there, and welcome to the channel. Think your the first to comment from Iran. Are you riding or working on a older motorcycle? Would be interested to know what bikes folks there are riding. Thanks for watchin.
@@montana2strokeracer thanks for answering you . yes i have three old motorcyclet , and ride for fun Suzuki tc 125 , yamaha rs 125 and yamaha Gt 80 . and i am very interested. and i have an old english car called hillman hunter 1975
That's great, that is a nice stable of bikes. I will be starting another TC125 suzuki this winter, so stay tuned for that, the Yamaha I'm doing now is very close to yours. Hey like that english car too. Hey thanks for watchin.
Very helpful!! Thanks! This one is similar to my TS75. My 1979 TS125, however, has a point gap and and adjustable plate. so few videos on setting timing and none so complete and to the point. Look forward to seeing how you build a buzz box.
Thanks Jim, on the bikes that have both. Just set point gap, then timing with either dial indicator method or timing light with engine running . Of course you cant do this with external flywheel models only internal.
Hi Dale, can you please advise the paint (ie manufacturer and paint code) you used for the Yamaha CT1 side covers ? You've done a " top job " and really helped with my CT2 restoration. Thanks in anticipation Cheers John
I believe your referring to the engine side cases. I use Rust-Oleum 7716 heat resistant silver then cover that with 249117 Rust-Oleum 2X Gloss Clear. I think it does a pretty good job and easy to clean. Thank you for hanging out in the shop with me.
Hey Dale. Great video. Question: When using the dial gauge to set the timing , shouldn’t the spark plug hole be directly over the center of the piston ? I noticed my CT3 175 and yours look to be offset thus yielding a false reading ? Being off true center would yield your timing to be more rewarded ? Your thoughts. You also mentioned that if you want to skip that technique and just use the point gap method , that you should try to err towards the ,012 side of the range Well as your points heel starts to wear down you’ll get less lift and that would close up the points more making the gap closer to ,010 which is out of range. Seems you should err on the higher side .? Your thoughts very welcome. Excellent job creating the videos. Tom from Telford Pa
Hi Tom thanks for your comment, You are correct about a lot of this. The angle on the ct1 is not straight up, but its not at that much of an angle, not like a DT1 or RT1 those you must remove the head and use an adapter on the head bolt for the dial indicator. Im sure it throws of the accuracy somewhat but not enough to worry about. As far as the point gap, setting to the wide side to allow for wear is spot on. When I put the video up I caught what I said but it was too late to change. If you are using the feeler gage method, yes set at the wide setting to allow for wear. But....if you want the best performance it is had at the closer point gap as proved by the dial indicator reading. That is what I should have said. Otherwise, if you are a weekend trail rider, and want performance and reliabilty set the points to the wide gap and your setting will last longer. But if your racing or want the best performance you can get...set at the lowest and its the same as the mm BTDC method, and check your timing more often to maintain it. Thanks again for your comment, and thanks for watchin
Hi Steve, no that is the TS250. There is a sweet 1975 TS185 here in town I've been after for a couple years, still trying to snag it. Only time will tell. Thanks for your comment and for watchin.
I guess I should not say that. The head and cylinder were glass beaded. The center cases were cleaned with aluminum cleaner, outer cases painted. Thanks again.
It's a pity we can only give a single "Thumbs Up" as you deserve better. Excellent video as usual Dale. I am really enjoying working through all the bike video's from oldest to newest.
Thanks Kevin, I sure appreciate that. That would sure make up for some of the thumbs down I get, LOL. Not sure why they watch if they don't like the videos. Thanks again.
Hi Dale! Just watch all your videos on the Yamaha! Good work!! I work on my 1982 RS125, and after seeing you i am inspired to take on my forks. Thanks!! Pål from Stockhol m Sweden.
Hi Pal, glad your getting some good out those videos. That's one of reasons i do them is to inspire others to their own maintenance. Thanks for your comment and for watchin.
Dale, I have watched all five of this series while doing my own AT1 engine rebuild and can't say enough how much I appreciate you taking the time to do these. I have referred often to your videos, and continue to do so as I near completion. So thank you. As an aside, going through what I am going through, I can't imagine how difficult it is to video this stuff, especially the transmission and shift drum insertion process. haha! Thanks again!
Thanks for the kind words David, I am glad folks are getting some good out of these videos. I enjoy working with these old bikes and making the videos. Yes as you are aware, holding all those parts, in neutral, and trying to stab them in place is a lot of fun for sure. Good luck with your project and thanks for hanging out in the shop with me.
Dale these videos are excellent, thanks so much for posting.
You got it Jeff, thanks for watchin. I sure appreciate it.
Looking forward to the "Bighorn Resto",..... Awesome work Dale keep the videos coming mate !!! Cheers
Hey thanks for your comment DJ. Not sure when I'm going to start the Big Horn. Actually I am starting with the seat pan straight away. Got a Suzuki TC125 coming in for a restoration and it's got priority. But i plan
to get some of it in the mix right away. Thanks for watchin.
@@montana2strokeracer I live in New Zealand and we have a series of rides here for old bikes (& Old Blokes) called "Vinduro" which stands for vintage enduro. The era of bikes you work on are what some of us ride in this series, My buddy rides a '74 TS 400 Apache Suzuki most of the bikes are stock or with minor mods to brakes & suspension for safety & comfort reasons but we have had a guy turn up with his "Fuel Injected Bighorn" , but lots of Suzuki TS 185's & some early MX & DT Yamaha's compete often. Lots of fun & lots of nice people with nice old bikes........... I enjoy watching your video's I thought I would share that with you. Keep up the great work !!! Cheers :-)
Thanks for sharing your story DJ. I guess I could fit in, being an old bloke myself. It seems there is a lot of interest in these old bikes these days. I sure enjoy them. When my wife suggested doing these videos for something I was all ready doing. (Motorcycle restoration) I said, no one is going to watch some old guy working on old bikes. Well I have been overwhelmed. Folks like yourself sharing their story's, and their experiences with the bikes. It has been a wonderful experience for me, communicating with all the like minded people all over the world. I would love to see the fuel injected Big Horn, bet that is way cool. Hey thanks for sharing and watchin.
Hey Dale welcome aboard anybody that's a friend of Kevin bergeron is a friend of mine. I'm already enjoying your videos
Hey thanks Larry, Yep Kevin is the best. And thank you sir for watching my stuff, hope it is entertaining at least. Thanks for the kind words and for watchin.
I follow your videos from Iran with interest. Thanks
Hi there, and welcome to the channel. Think your the first to comment from Iran. Are you riding or working on a older motorcycle? Would be interested to know what bikes folks there are riding. Thanks for watchin.
@@montana2strokeracer thanks for answering you . yes i have three old motorcyclet , and ride for fun
Suzuki tc 125 , yamaha rs 125 and yamaha Gt 80 . and i am very interested. and i have an old english car called hillman hunter 1975
That's great, that is a nice stable of bikes. I will be starting another TC125 suzuki this winter, so stay tuned for that, the Yamaha I'm doing now is very close to yours. Hey like that english car too. Hey thanks for watchin.
Looks good brother. Can’t wait to see the Kawasaki project. That seat pan is bad. Looking forward to seeing you build one.
Yeah Im ready for a change.
thanks Dale just what i needed, great vid
No problem 👍
Very helpful!! Thanks! This one is similar to my TS75. My 1979 TS125, however, has a point gap and and adjustable plate. so few videos on setting timing and none so complete and to the point. Look forward to seeing how you build a buzz box.
Thanks Jim, on the bikes that have both. Just set point gap, then timing with either dial indicator method or timing light with engine running . Of course you cant do this with external flywheel models only internal.
Hi Dale, can you please advise the paint (ie manufacturer and paint code) you used for the Yamaha CT1 side covers ?
You've done a " top job " and really helped with my CT2 restoration.
Thanks in anticipation
Cheers John
I believe your referring to the engine side cases. I use Rust-Oleum 7716 heat resistant silver then cover that with 249117 Rust-Oleum 2X Gloss Clear. I think it does a pretty good job and easy to clean. Thank you for hanging out in the shop with me.
@@montana2strokeracer Thank you
Do you have a part number for the ignition/charging coils and the plate they are mounted to
And the flywheel
No you will have to look them up at Rocky mountain ATV/MC or Partszilla. If I was doing it I would find a used one at a motorcycle salvage or ebay.
@@montana2strokeracer could I put a dt250 jug on a at1 case
@@dallashughes4721 No way Dallas, go with a 175 it will bolt right on.
Hey Dale. Great video. Question: When using the dial gauge to set the timing , shouldn’t the spark plug hole be directly over the center of the piston ? I noticed my CT3 175 and yours look to be offset thus yielding a false reading ? Being off true center would yield
your timing to be more rewarded ? Your thoughts. You also mentioned that if you want to skip that technique and just use the point gap method , that you should try to err towards the ,012 side of the range Well as your points heel starts to wear down you’ll get less lift and that would close up the points more making the gap closer to ,010 which is out of range. Seems you should err on the higher side .? Your thoughts very welcome. Excellent job creating the videos. Tom from Telford Pa
Hi Tom thanks for your comment, You are correct about a lot of this. The angle on the ct1 is not straight up, but its not at that much of an angle, not like a DT1 or RT1 those you must remove the head and use an adapter on the head bolt for the dial indicator. Im sure it throws of the accuracy somewhat but not enough to worry about. As far as the point gap, setting to the wide side to allow for wear is spot on. When I put the video up I caught what I said but it was too late to change. If you are using the feeler gage method, yes set at the wide setting to allow for wear. But....if you want the best performance it is had at the closer point gap as proved by the dial indicator reading. That is what I should have said. Otherwise, if you are a weekend trail rider, and want performance and reliabilty set the points to the wide gap and your setting will last longer. But if your racing or want the best performance you can get...set at the lowest and its the same as the mm BTDC method, and check your timing more often to maintain it. Thanks again for your comment, and thanks for watchin
Is that a TS185 in your shop or is that the 250?
Hi Steve, no that is the TS250. There is a sweet 1975 TS185 here in town I've been after for a couple years, still trying to snag it. Only time will tell. Thanks for your comment and for watchin.
Did you bead blast this motor, or something else?
Yes John, it was glass beaded. Thanks for your comment and for watchin.
I guess I should not say that. The head and cylinder were glass beaded. The center cases were cleaned with aluminum cleaner, outer cases painted. Thanks again.
boy Yamaha pump is better design than Suzuki.
I like them better, at least they have a priming feature.