In the past I have used 2 rods while welding in a spot that needed extra filler. With the second rod in my other hand. Keeps the thin metal from getting too hot. Could lay some rod/wire down and weld over top . I've done both.
,030 wire might have helped a little. Often the rollers on those size welders will feed both .035 and .030. I also have several pieces of copper flatbar that I'll use as backing. Weld won't stick to it and it's a great heat sink. I just shortened a pickup bed (converting it to a secretary style shop desk) and found the tig welder was the best solution for me. Thanks for sharing your shop and projects.
You might want to drop down to 0.023 wire, higher flow of the shielding gas, and stich welding (multiple tacks in a row). Welding thinner steel is much tougher than welding thicker materials (0.120" + up).
When welding light gage metal,, I often use a copper backing bar to support the weldment and keep from burning through. The copper won't stick to the weld either.
I have used porcelain to back a weld area. Great tip. Kinda like the idea of molten metal ladle or a kilt to cool down glass. Fire bricks work well too.
Jim beat me to my comment... I use scrap copper tubing that I have bent in several shapes and sizes to help with the blow through... sometimes there is just a small rust spot that I can fill with weld, then grind smooth. or another trick is to build a damn on either side of the hole making small passes on all sides towards the center to fill. One late Saturday night repair that had to be completed and running low on welding wire and no patch metal left, we cleaned then cut to fit clothes hanger rod to fill the gap. With copper on the back side, it was welded all together. It was a little tricky but the hanger and rod melted together and the patch turned out awesome
Love your channel and this looks to be a super project. What a nice little Bugatti to be able to work on. A grinder can make most welds presentable with a little work. Keep up the good work and be safe.
My project is a 1951 Willy's Overland Pickup truck. It's sitting in the garage about 20 feet from where I'm sitting in my VA wheelchair. Being Paralyzed really messed up my plans for retirement projects!
I've made uglier welds in the past and still do from time to time. space your spot welds further apart, make a spot weld move a couple of inches down and make another and just keep going like that all way around and start over the same thing. the other thing is the wire. that 035 is for heavier metal you could weld a frame with it. drop to 023 and you'll have much better luck. Great work keep it up. love the video's.
I thought you were doing a pretty good job Emily. When I was restoring my 1936 Austin 7 my teacher taught me to first attach the repair panel with tack welds (maybe at the corners). Then to do spot welds about an inch apart around the whole panel. But don't do too many close together to avoid distorting the panel from too much localised heat. Then join two spots with continuous weld (so a 1" weld). Then miss an inch and join the next two welds. Continue until you have 1" welds on the whole panel (but remember to do different parts of the panel to avoid heat distortion). Then as Ken May says use seam sealer between, or if you want you can fill the other 1" sections with weld to end with a continuous weld.
I cut my welding teeth welding old vws, a long old time ago, so this looks very familiar to me 😂 There's no substitute for practise, but a few pointers along the way never harm either. Can't wait to see this up an running.
I was lucky enough to work with some great welders, I remember a term they would use when they needed to build up an area, they would say they buttered the edges.
very cool. thats gonna be a fun little car. Welding to rusty or less than clean metal is a tedious process, but you guys seem to doing pretty well. Also, your camera is fantastic! its like real life on my screen. so cool
In the instructions for these kits it says to add weight to the front. The kit is shorter and much lighter than a factory bug. In order to keep the front suspension from topping out and hopping, you were to add weight.
I see people mentioning copper when welding light gauge steel. I’ve never used that but I have used a piece of aluminum. The weld wire used on steel won’t penetrate and hold aluminum. You also want to move around and not just go one on top of the other all the way around as the steel will warp. Do a couple in one corner then move to another. Let the steel cool a little before you come back to it.
Coming along nicely!!! Looks like the valve cover counterweights are from an old Ford FE!! LOL! Those welds are lookin just fine for what they need to do!
Just a suggestion on laying out your paper templates on steel. Go to the craft store or hardware store and purchase some 1/2 inch magnets package. They are cheap and easy to use.
Sorry for the wrong start of what I had said . It was supposed to be awesome looking floors guys. But had tv going to.the rest was correct. But love watching the progress on it and other videos ya do.
What are your plans for the wait of the cement that you cut out? didn't someone put that in to keep the front tires on the ground? Thanks for sharing and keep going .
Arin you showed us an old Chevy truck that belonged to one of your family. Are you two going back to that in the future. I love old trucks seeing them brought back. Merrill, PA.
I was going to say- you need a heavy duty bumper of some weight to keep the nose down as power sliding does just seem to go straight ahead on vw buggies, that is why the weights were put in to keep the front tires steering. Have fun y-all !
instead of trying to fill the seam tack the floor pan in each tack should be 1/2 in long atleast every inch then use body seam sealer to fix the rest .its easy I did that in body shop i worked for many years ago
They now make flap sanding discs for cleaning up fugly inside corners, give them a try. I replaced my rotted VW buggy pans with fiberglass and 1-1/2 square steel tube perimeter rails.
I know its tight for space in there but you have to try to point the welder at the new steel because it will take the heat better. I noticed you were pointing the opposite way.
When dad built the kits he had in 77, the assembly instructions required 120 lbs of lead shot or concrete in the front to keep the nose from lifting at highway speeds.
.023 wire helps a lot, .035 is pretty big for sheet metal work, and yes, a little at a time, can't run a bead on sheet metal, its a whole other kind of monster. I'm no expert, but I've also worked on a lot of crappy rusted cars. Enjoy the channel guys, keep up the great work.
You need a copper "spoon" from harbor freight it helps to fill in the holes they are about $10.00 bucks I think. I think Mike Finnegan would be proud of you. I don't know how old your welding machine is but you might want to look at a Miller Auto Set 140. That's what I use for my stuff and it takes a lot of the guess work out of what speed/heat you need to weld at. I have been welding for over 50 years and I still am learning new things about it. My Dad taught me to weld when I was 6 or 7 years old when we built the mini bike I had as a kid. He was a 60 year member of Pile Drivers Local 2375 Wilmington, CA. He passed away on Feb.15, 2019 and sometimes when I'm welding it seems like I can hear his voice saying that exactly how I taught you how to weld your were listening to me after all. I miss you Dad.
Just curious as to why you left the body on? It’s way easier to work on with the fiberglass removed, also, you’d have better lick using .023 wire instead of .035
The concrete was a counterweight for the front end......it needs replacing with something equaling that sort of weight as at the mo all the weights in the rear and it will handle like Skippy and Tiggers love child ...hopping and bouncing. After rewatching this I realised a massive "problem" the "petrol tank"(more like an oil drum ) is right in the front, one frontal impact and you're going to end up like Achmed the Dead Terrorist......you know...... "What was the last thing that went through your mind?" Achmed "My ass" Loving all you do, Loving the Buggati, All the best!
Yes Ma'am Please Make sure that the Argon is Left Turned on at all times bc it's never going to explode if it did leak out into your shop but yeah it's sorta necessary to have protective noble gas like argon to shield your welf from the atmosphere and some don't even realize what oxidation is or was?! Don't worry we will give you a Free Pass Just on You And Aaron's Great Looks 😂👍
Loving this fun junker rescue series Guys, Okay here goes, Welding tip? If you cant Weld Well, Weld LOTS! :-D Nah im a rubbish welder and Invest in Flapper discs lol As for the VeeDub (VeeGatti?) the builders actually had the right idea re the cement filled ballast because as they were Beetles needed weight added. My old 60's 1300cc DakDak (It made that sound soooo yeah DakDak) was my first car and on skinny bias ply rubbed was a handful until I figured out that bags of potting mix in the Frunk over the steering axle cut down on understeer, They also tend to swap ends quick and with no warning or much chance to catch the rear when it steps out plus the lack of power meant that grabbing a handful of opposite lock was a waste. Good wider tyres and camber adjustments with some ballast experimentation with change the VeeGatti into a fun thing and maybe a track blaster plus there is SO much aftermarket stuff for that platform. So when its done and running? But wait, theres more lol performance and handling mods. Thanks for the entertainment.
I found when I was welding my car if I made a hole to put a piece of copper also on the other side and you can fill it easily. I Made a mess when I started welding and I also forgot the gas lol. It's good fun tho I love welding.
I think I would have taken the body off to get a better floor pan in, plus you can buy new vw floor pans 👍😊 Lovin' this build, not enough low dollar kit cars around these days 👍👍
You will find that you will need that weight in the front, as it will tend to Float at almost any speed, and a problem turning corners especially if it is a wet road..
Your pulse technique works. You have two issues your dealing with on the welding: 1: You're using dual shield (core wire with a shielding gas). For that thin of material (mainly the BUGatti rusted up thin as hell metal) you are welding dissimilar thickness metals. Short circuit transfer with solid wire (.024/-.023) diam. with 75/25 argon/CO2, would have served your purpose much better. 2. Practice on a fab table first matching similar thickness metals with the process and technique before you put your self in an awkward position. This allows you to set machine parameters and technique before you add the "bend yourself in a pretzel position" to try and make a weld. Oh, and turn the machine on before you crawl under the dash in the "pretzel position". Fortunately you had a "hubby" on standby.
I have a hunch those valve covers might actually be filled with lead, not cement. That doesn't change your point at all, but maybe something to check for and recycle if that's the case.
@@flyingsparksgarage But you will require that weight ballast again, otherwise the car will just go straight, and trying to go around corners will be damn near impossible. Had the same issue on a Herbie powered MG kit car (Rear engined). Basically no weight over the front wheels, so no grip when turning.
I would just weld a spot move down several inches and so on and just fill in slowly. It helps minimize warpage. I'm hoping you can grind out a lot of that booger weld. IMO you will need some reinforcement on that pedal assembly.
Don't worry about making the welds pretty. Make them solid. Like you pointed out, they'll be covered by carpet. It's way more important that you don't fall through the floor at 40mph.
Drop your (MUCH NEEDED) welding tips, HERE! 😂👇🏼
might try sand blasting to prep the metal for welds best way I know to fix splatter welds
In the past I have used 2 rods while welding in a spot that needed extra filler.
With the second rod in my other hand. Keeps the thin metal from getting too hot.
Could lay some rod/wire down and weld over top .
I've done both.
,030 wire might have helped a little. Often the rollers on those size welders will feed both .035 and .030. I also have several pieces of copper flatbar that I'll use as backing. Weld won't stick to it and it's a great heat sink. I just shortened a pickup bed (converting it to a secretary style shop desk) and found the tig welder was the best solution for me. Thanks for sharing your shop and projects.
You might want to drop down to 0.023 wire, higher flow of the shielding gas, and stich welding (multiple tacks in a row). Welding thinner steel is much tougher than welding thicker materials (0.120" + up).
Just trying to help. TIG would be a better choice, but you have MIG so I offered what I know
What I like is their courage to try new, difficult things!!
When welding light gage metal,, I often use a copper backing bar to support the weldment and keep from burning through. The copper won't stick to the weld either.
Thanks for the tip!!!!
Porcelain works also
I want to second that thank you. That's a really great tip I'll have to try it next time I weld thin gauge metal.
I have used porcelain to back a weld area. Great tip.
Kinda like the idea of molten metal ladle or a kilt to cool down glass.
Fire bricks work well too.
Copper backing is really good when can. Otherwise short "tacks on tack" just like Aaron did when he filled the holes is the way.
To quote Doug Jackson at SV Seeker - "Grinder and paint make me the welder I aint"
I always put on a little extra to grin off cause I know I suck at welding.
Ya know the fact that you try makes you golden to me. Just so impressed, I hope you can turn on generations of ladies to work with their hands.
Best DYI power couple on UA-cam!😃 keep up the awesome work!
I smile every time I see the Bronco! I'm betting the BUGatti will make me grin for sure.
The firing order of a small block chevy...great idea for a shirt! I learned that on my first car out of necessity and have never forgotten it.
I wondered what it was 😀
Hey awesome video you should try welding with 023 wire or 025 on thin metal it’s amazing 👍
lookin good
Hey THANKS!!! Even though we’re patching it together in the junkiest of ways!!?! LOL! Appreciate you watching and commenting 🥰🙏🏼🙌🏼
You’re a beauty Mustie!! Haha
No glasses? Contacts? Surgery?
Good job guys I'm impressed Emily you didn't say dude one time Lol.😎
Jim beat me to my comment... I use scrap copper tubing that I have bent in several shapes and sizes to help with the blow through... sometimes there is just a small rust spot that I can fill with weld, then grind smooth. or another trick is to build a damn on either side of the hole making small passes on all sides towards the center to fill. One late Saturday night repair that had to be completed and running low on welding wire and no patch metal left, we cleaned then cut to fit clothes hanger rod to fill the gap. With copper on the back side, it was welded all together. It was a little tricky but the hanger and rod melted together and the patch turned out awesome
It's great to see you guys work together ike that good job can't wait to see you again stay safe.
Just want to thank you for the Advance Auto discount. Saved me a bunch last order.
Did one back in the day. They called for concrete weight up front to get some weight on the front end for steering
The farther forward, the more effective, the less you need.
Love your channel and this looks to be a super project. What a nice little Bugatti to be able to work on. A grinder can make most welds presentable with a little work. Keep up the good work and be safe.
This is the coolest looking build I’ve seen for awhile. Hope you keep the patina!
sure am glad to see you all back in the shop working
the bath tub is not going to take a lot off power i think. good thing it has a bug sowing machine .hahaha Love you guys.
That was cool how you showed your mistake. Everyone makes them so it's nice to show how to fix them when they happen.
My project is a 1951 Willy's Overland Pickup truck. It's sitting in the garage about 20 feet from where I'm sitting in my VA wheelchair. Being Paralyzed really messed up my plans for retirement projects!
I've made uglier welds in the past and still do from time to time. space your spot welds further apart, make a spot weld move a couple of inches down and make another and just keep going like that all way around and start over the same thing. the other thing is the wire. that 035 is for heavier metal you could weld a frame with it. drop to 023 and you'll have much better luck. Great work keep it up. love the video's.
I thought you were doing a pretty good job Emily. When I was restoring my 1936 Austin 7 my teacher taught me to first attach the repair panel with tack welds (maybe at the corners). Then to do spot welds about an inch apart around the whole panel. But don't do too many close together to avoid distorting the panel from too much localised heat. Then join two spots with continuous weld (so a 1" weld). Then miss an inch and join the next two welds. Continue until you have 1" welds on the whole panel (but remember to do different parts of the panel to avoid heat distortion). Then as Ken May says use seam sealer between, or if you want you can fill the other 1" sections with weld to end with a continuous weld.
got a 38 austin 9
I cut my welding teeth welding old vws, a long old time ago, so this looks very familiar to me 😂
There's no substitute for practise, but a few pointers along the way never harm either. Can't wait to see this up an running.
I was lucky enough to work with some great welders, I remember a term they would use when they needed to build up an area, they would say they buttered the edges.
Practice! I looks pretty good to me Erin! I think you will get it just fine!
Just stumbled upon this channel, love what your doing! Keep up the good work!
Great video!! Try media blasting the lip. Also,I have used .24 size wire for thin metal.
I love the shot of you all the way in the footwell just peeking out. =]
very cool. thats gonna be a fun little car. Welding to rusty or less than clean metal is a tedious process, but you guys seem to doing pretty well. Also, your camera is fantastic! its like real life on my screen. so cool
You guys make a great team.
Jump around with your tacks to keep the metal cool. You can also use a piece of copper behind the weld as a heatsink to prevent blowing out as much.
In the instructions for these kits it says to add weight to the front. The kit is shorter and much lighter than a factory bug. In order to keep the front suspension from topping out and hopping, you were to add weight.
I see people mentioning copper when welding light gauge steel. I’ve never used that but I have used a piece of aluminum. The weld wire used on steel won’t penetrate and hold aluminum. You also want to move around and not just go one on top of the other all the way around as the steel will warp. Do a couple in one corner then move to another. Let the steel cool a little before you come back to it.
Fugly or not that was a giant hole and you filled it with a little grinding it'll look great 😊
Coming along nicely!!! Looks like the valve cover counterweights are from an old Ford FE!! LOL! Those welds are lookin just fine for what they need to do!
Just a suggestion on laying out your paper templates on steel. Go to the craft store or hardware store and purchase some 1/2 inch magnets package. They are cheap and easy to use.
Awesome little guys, looking good so far.
Sorry for the wrong start of what I had said . It was supposed to be awesome looking floors guys. But had tv going to.the rest was correct. But love watching the progress on it and other videos ya do.
I'm not a welder either,looks good to me lol,nice progress,gonna be a nice little car when finished.
Good times ! A machine turned dash would look right at home I think !
I think I'm as eager to see this one rolling as any of the others 👍
What are your plans for the wait of the cement that you cut out? didn't someone put that in to keep the front tires on the ground? Thanks for sharing and keep going .
If it's a vw body why not use vw replacement floor panels?
What you said about a whole bunch of tacks keep tacking every two inches then in the middle of those tacks and so on till it’s welded all the way
Cool Bug-Gotti. Y’all made me look up these on the web. Some are very cool
Good to see you modernising your ''Flintstones' Bugatti. 😁 👍
Arin you showed us an old Chevy truck that belonged to one of your family. Are you two going back to that in the future. I love old trucks seeing them brought back. Merrill, PA.
I was going to say- you need a heavy duty bumper of some weight to keep the nose down as power sliding does just seem to go straight ahead on vw buggies, that is why the weights were put in to keep the front tires steering. Have fun y-all !
Who else is thinking, "Why is Rosie the Riveter welding that floor pan?"
Great minds think alike ! never mind the second part : ]
Great video.. just started watching .. what is the bronze or gold car in the background
Our Datsun 280Z!
There’s a playlist on the whole build!
instead of trying to fill the seam tack the floor pan in each tack should be 1/2 in long atleast every inch then use body seam sealer to fix the rest .its easy I did that in body shop i worked for many years ago
They now make flap sanding discs for cleaning up fugly inside corners, give them a try. I replaced my rotted VW buggy pans with fiberglass and 1-1/2 square steel tube perimeter rails.
I know its tight for space in there but you have to try to point the welder at the new steel because it will take the heat better. I noticed you were pointing the opposite way.
When dad built the kits he had in 77, the assembly instructions required 120 lbs of lead shot or concrete in the front to keep the nose from lifting at highway speeds.
I've been waiting for a Flying Sparks vlog. Yay!
Can’t wait for the next episode
Can’t wait to see it rolling
It rolls, they rolled it out to get the Bronco, then rolled it back it. 😁
Way to jump in there and get it done, Emily! You'll be a pro in no time with that attitude 😎🤘
Ça avance,mais il y a encore du boulot,bon courage à bientôt salut Jeannot 🛠😉
Nice job guys and keep doing a great job
Hi guys I'm keeping a eye on you! Have fun from Mexia Tx.
.023 wire helps a lot, .035 is pretty big for sheet metal work, and yes, a little at a time, can't run a bead on sheet metal, its a whole other kind of monster. I'm no expert, but I've also worked on a lot of crappy rusted cars. Enjoy the channel guys, keep up the great work.
Love sharing your fun!
Wow talk about "getting into your work", you go girl....
Looks like a fun project!!
i love this car. love the project!
Live and learn. Good job guys!
That's going to make a great fun ride 👍👍🇨🇱
You need a copper "spoon" from harbor freight it helps to fill in the holes they are about $10.00 bucks I think. I think Mike Finnegan would be proud of you. I don't know how old your welding machine is but you might want to look at a Miller Auto Set 140. That's what I use for my stuff and it takes a lot of the guess work out of what speed/heat you need to weld at. I have been welding for over 50 years and I still am learning new things about it. My Dad taught me to weld when I was 6 or 7 years old when we built the mini bike I had as a kid. He was a 60 year member of Pile Drivers Local 2375 Wilmington, CA. He passed away on Feb.15, 2019 and sometimes when I'm welding it seems like I can hear his voice saying that exactly how I taught you how to weld your were listening to me after all. I miss you Dad.
Hey I just subscribed! I enjoyed watching and I'm just starting to weld so this was helpful. Thanks! 👍
I am following this closely. For years I have wanted to find one of these bodies, build a tube chassis, and put a Jag 6 or similar in the front.
A grinder and paint make bad welds great.
Just curious as to why you left the body on? It’s way easier to work on with the fiberglass removed, also, you’d have better lick using .023 wire instead of .035
Coe update? Really hope you do that
Aaron, you are a lucky man...
You got a Bugatti and a boat 😉
The concrete was a counterweight for the front end......it needs replacing with something equaling that sort of weight as at the mo all the weights in the rear and it will handle like Skippy and Tiggers love child ...hopping and bouncing.
After rewatching this I realised a massive "problem" the "petrol tank"(more like an oil drum ) is right in the front, one frontal impact and you're going to end up like Achmed the Dead Terrorist......you know......
"What was the last thing that went through your mind?"
Achmed "My ass"
Loving all you do,
Loving the Buggati,
All the best!
Yeah, function over pretty on this one guy's. No need to stress, adds to the character.
Yes Ma'am Please Make sure that the Argon is Left Turned on at all times bc it's never going to explode if it did leak out into your shop but yeah it's sorta necessary to have protective noble gas like argon to shield your welf from the atmosphere and some don't even realize what oxidation is or was?! Don't worry we will give you a Free Pass Just on You And Aaron's Great Looks 😂👍
Loving this fun junker rescue series Guys,
Okay here goes, Welding tip?
If you cant Weld Well, Weld LOTS! :-D
Nah im a rubbish welder and Invest in Flapper discs lol
As for the VeeDub (VeeGatti?) the builders actually had the right idea re the cement filled ballast because as they were Beetles needed weight added.
My old 60's 1300cc DakDak (It made that sound soooo yeah DakDak) was my first car and on skinny bias ply rubbed was a handful until I figured out that bags of potting mix in the Frunk over the steering axle cut down on understeer, They also tend to swap ends quick and with no warning or much chance to catch the rear when it steps out plus the lack of power meant that grabbing a handful of opposite lock was a waste.
Good wider tyres and camber adjustments with some ballast experimentation with change the VeeGatti into a fun thing and maybe a track blaster plus there is SO much aftermarket stuff for that platform.
So when its done and running? But wait, theres more lol performance and handling mods.
Thanks for the entertainment.
might be lead in those valve covers.....race car ballast weight trick
Muy buen trabajo
You guys are a "HOOT❗" 😊✌👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸❤🙏
You need a rays welding service sticker for this car 😆
reference your tip on the new metal as much as you can since the old metal is so thin
I found when I was welding my car if I made a hole to put a piece of copper also on the other side and you can fill it easily. I Made a mess when I started welding and I also forgot the gas lol. It's good fun tho I love welding.
Had me at 'Fugly' great phrase lol
Great progress
I think I would have taken the body off to get a better floor pan in, plus you can buy new vw floor pans 👍😊
Lovin' this build, not enough low dollar kit cars around these days 👍👍
Great job
Love seeing the progress.
Still Planning to put the motor in the front ?
Leaving the power plant as is for now!
The Shop Dawg wasn't on set directing today?
Your welder doesn't take smaller wire ? My Miller takes
.030 and .023 great for sheet metal.
You will find that you will need that weight in the front, as it will tend to Float at almost any speed, and a problem turning corners especially if it is a wet road..
Remember the floor pan adds much needed structural strength to the vehicle. Betcha that glass body is heavy. Interesting to see the fwd weights.
Aaron does have a lot of skill
Your pulse technique works. You have two issues your dealing with on the welding: 1: You're using dual shield (core wire with a shielding gas). For that thin of material (mainly the BUGatti rusted up thin as hell metal) you are welding dissimilar thickness metals. Short circuit transfer with solid wire (.024/-.023) diam. with 75/25 argon/CO2, would have served your purpose much better. 2. Practice on a fab table first matching similar thickness metals with the process and technique before you put your self in an awkward position. This allows you to set machine parameters and technique before you add the "bend yourself in a pretzel position" to try and make a weld. Oh, and turn the machine on before you crawl under the dash in the "pretzel position". Fortunately you had a "hubby" on standby.
I have a hunch those valve covers might actually be filled with lead, not cement. That doesn't change your point at all, but maybe something to check for and recycle if that's the case.
They were INSANELY HEAVY! You may be right!
@@flyingsparksgarage But you will require that weight ballast again, otherwise the car will just go straight, and trying to go around corners will be damn near impossible. Had the same issue on a Herbie powered MG kit car (Rear engined). Basically no weight over the front wheels, so no grip when turning.
I would just weld a spot move down several inches and so on and just fill in slowly. It helps minimize warpage. I'm hoping you can grind out a lot of that booger weld. IMO you will need some reinforcement on that pedal assembly.
Anyone else think Emily sitting in front trunk bay looks similar to WWII poster of Rosie the Riveter in a bomb bay door on plane?
That 90 degree Milwaukee is too much awesome. What is it?
Don't worry about making the welds pretty. Make them solid. Like you pointed out, they'll be covered by carpet. It's way more important that you don't fall through the floor at 40mph.
Put pc of copper on back side
Make very small tack welds all the way around until all connected
That’s what Sean sealer is for :)