Just a helpful suggestion; when removing those seals put the hubs in a vise or remove seals before separating hub from the drum and using your straight claw estwing framing hammer will work better for removing the seal,or a longer seal puller head so it doesn't get down inside, because you lose your leverage point. Great video.
Eventually you'll have a fully restored truck! Write a book, "Everything You've Always Wanted to Know about Restoring Your Service Truck But We're Afraid to Ask"----Volume 1 😄 Good job! They cleaned up really nice! 👍 (I'm kidding about the book, unless you really wanted to)
After watching this, I may try cleaning and painting my drum brake parts next time I do a brake job. I also may not, probably the latter even though yours looked really nice.
Yep, that green loctite is commonly used to hold bearings to shafts in hydraulic pumps and motors that are a slip fit without the green loctite. I think it's pretty safe to say those bearing races won't be spinning any time soon. That stuff is even harder to get off/out than red loctite if it's used on threads.
Yeah I imagine the Sterling is better…which is why some people look to do a Sterling swap haha. Glad it gave you some insight as to what you will be seeing!
@@SwedeMachine yes it seems from my reading that the sterling is the preferred axle. I stole the disk brakes off a 70 hd today hoping I could make them work on my sterling 10.25 but it may be a bit out of reach for me! Seems I'd need a slightly larger lathe and a few more years of experience :( but doable for the right guy! They even have e-brakes!
And so is concluded the saga of Hub & Axle! Find out what happens next time, only on SM TV! I must admit, the loose sand flowing from the gun after the pressure drops got a childish giggle out of me.
Great video. A couple questions if you don’t mind. The dually rear brakes on my 1978 F350, are they the same as your 1980? Also my truck has those fancy, well dated coils for overloads. Do you know anything about those? Brand maybe? I’d like to read up on them. But honestly I’d like to see if I could replace them with airbags of some sort??? My 1978 F350 has a 16’ flatbed and is made to haul cars. That’s how I bought it from the previous owner. Been sitting 8-10 years with the engine seized. Just swapped in a fuel injected big block with overdrive. Now I need to get the brakes done. I plan on replacing everything except the booster if possible. I also have a Dana 70 dually from a mid 80’s ford motor home that I thought about swapping in considering it only has 32k miles and 4.10’s vs my 3.73’s…. Thoughts? Thanks.
The Dana 70’s should be very similar. I can’t see that two years would make much of a difference. I know nothing about those coil helper springs. The ones I’ve seen usually have shock absorbers instead of those coil springs so your guess is as good as mine. Don’t have any literature on those. 4.10 gears with overdrive would be nice if you had hills you knew you were going to be driving up and down on. 3.73 gears would definitely be adequate if you’re driving mostly flat terrain and or highway driving. If you have 373’s with overdrive, you would probably get some fuel economy there. If you use the axle out of the motorhome, I would measure the axle assembly width first. I thought about swapping out my rear end with an E - 350 low mileage unit, but it turns out the Econoline box van setups had wider axle’s than the pickup lineup. The Dana’s in this vintage came in a whole variety of different flavors. So make sure to measure carefully first before tearing it all apart. Thanks for watching🤘🏼
Will those Newer style spindle shear nuts work on my GM Dana 70HD. I have a 1989 chevy dually with the Dana 70 HD and am about to rebuild my brakes and install new gears.
I would think so. However Dana made a LOT of variations of its axles for different applications. Biggest thing would be to pay attention to the thread size. I have seen this setup also in a 89 E-350 Econoline van so I don’t see why not. I would guess it has similar setup on the inside. However I’m not an axle guru so best thing is to just open it up and size it up. ✌🏼
Terrible job of naming parts and tools in
this one . Still love all your videos so don’t get butt hurt.
I’m not lol. Love it😆.
Very Thorough and well documented. Awesome.
Hahaha I thought I was going to pop a gut when you where hammering and you had it sub titled that was good, I always enjoy your videos😁😁👍👍
That took a bit to sync that up lol🤣
Just a helpful suggestion; when removing those seals put the hubs in a vise or remove seals before separating hub from the drum and using your straight claw estwing framing hammer will work better for removing the seal,or a longer seal puller head so it doesn't get down inside, because you lose your leverage point. Great video.
Thanks for the top tip, Bob👍🏼
@@SwedeMachine your welcome, I love working on my old trucks and cars, I got out of the professional mechanic trade in the late 70's early 80's.
Oh nice! So you were a legit car mechanic and not a part changer like today. Fantastic sir
Eventually you'll have a fully restored truck! Write a book, "Everything You've Always Wanted to Know about Restoring Your Service Truck But We're Afraid to Ask"----Volume 1 😄 Good job! They cleaned up really nice! 👍 (I'm kidding about the book, unless you really wanted to)
Na I like it! Maybe when I’m older I’ll write it! “ 4,000 easy steps to restore your rig….”🤣🤣
After watching this, I may try cleaning and painting my drum brake parts next time I do a brake job. I also may not, probably the latter even though yours looked really nice.
I did go overboard here but it won’t hurt anything😉
@@SwedeMachine Overboard Shmoverboard. That's 3 extra Horse Power!
YASSS!!!
Sound effect at 40:17 was fantastic!
💩😁
IDK why but every time i see those hubs it reminds me of those red buttons u see on the game show press your luck " No Whammyies !!! ..lol
Yep, that green loctite is commonly used to hold bearings to shafts in hydraulic pumps and motors that are a slip fit without the green loctite. I think it's pretty safe to say those bearing races won't be spinning any time soon. That stuff is even harder to get off/out than red loctite if it's used on threads.
24:40
Watching this in preparation for pulling parts at the junkyard tomorrow.. all I think is wow this look like a pain compared to my sterling 10.25
Yeah I imagine the Sterling is better…which is why some people look to do a Sterling swap haha. Glad it gave you some insight as to what you will be seeing!
@@SwedeMachine yes it seems from my reading that the sterling is the preferred axle. I stole the disk brakes off a 70 hd today hoping I could make them work on my sterling 10.25 but it may be a bit out of reach for me! Seems I'd need a slightly larger lathe and a few more years of experience :( but doable for the right guy! They even have e-brakes!
Nice! Wish I had a lathe! One day😁
And so is concluded the saga of Hub & Axle!
Find out what happens next time, only on SM TV!
I must admit, the loose sand flowing from the gun after the pressure drops got a childish giggle out of me.
👍😊
👍
Doing that. Good
Great video. A couple questions if you don’t mind. The dually rear brakes on my 1978 F350, are they the same as your 1980? Also my truck has those fancy, well dated coils for overloads. Do you know anything about those? Brand maybe? I’d like to read up on them. But honestly I’d like to see if I could replace them with airbags of some sort??? My 1978 F350 has a 16’ flatbed and is made to haul cars. That’s how I bought it from the previous owner. Been sitting 8-10 years with the engine seized. Just swapped in a fuel injected big block with overdrive. Now I need to get the brakes done. I plan on replacing everything except the booster if possible. I also have a Dana 70 dually from a mid 80’s ford motor home that I thought about swapping in considering it only has 32k miles and 4.10’s vs my 3.73’s…. Thoughts? Thanks.
The Dana 70’s should be very similar. I can’t see that two years would make much of a difference. I know nothing about those coil helper springs. The ones I’ve seen usually have shock absorbers instead of those coil springs so your guess is as good as mine. Don’t have any literature on those. 4.10 gears with overdrive would be nice if you had hills you knew you were going to be driving up and down on. 3.73 gears would definitely be adequate if you’re driving mostly flat terrain and or highway driving. If you have 373’s with overdrive, you would probably get some fuel economy there. If you use the axle out of the motorhome, I would measure the axle assembly width first. I thought about swapping out my rear end with an E - 350 low mileage unit, but it turns out the Econoline box van setups had wider axle’s than the pickup lineup. The Dana’s in this vintage came in a whole variety of different flavors. So make sure to measure carefully first before tearing it all apart. Thanks for watching🤘🏼
Will those Newer style spindle shear nuts work on my GM Dana 70HD. I have a 1989 chevy dually with the Dana 70 HD and am about to rebuild my brakes and install new gears.
I would think so. However Dana made a LOT of variations of its axles for different applications. Biggest thing would be to pay attention to the thread size. I have seen this setup also in a 89 E-350 Econoline van so I don’t see why not. I would guess it has similar setup on the inside. However I’m not an axle guru so best thing is to just open it up and size it up. ✌🏼
Dang either you didn’t use enough grease on those bearings and spindle or I use waaay tooo much .. I proubably use 10x the amount you used there
Eh more never hurts👍🏼
I keep hoping you're going to drive the thing lol
Ohh you and me both!
no vice?
❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️👼👼🙏🙏👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
😏 somebody wants their DOT Sticker. HaHaHa. 🏆📄🏷️
Ohhh I’ll take one of them😁