The shirts are not going to begin out of the box weighing the same. The way to do it would be to weigh each shirt before printing, keeping track of the before and after difference, and comparing that.
just a note from someone who developed carpal tunnel screen printing. you say your strokes are the same, but it takes more pressure to clear the higher mesh. fatigue is definitely a factor when printing volume, and if the detail can handle it the 110 would be faster and easier to clear. Time is money and good health is priceless.
I can’t agree more with this, as someone who has been screenprinting for about 6 years. Ryan pressed super hard on that high mesh screen😂! Don’t play your health people.
very informative....i use a 156 for my underbasing...after watching this I will continue to use a 156 for the underbase but will use 200 and 230's for the actual image colors.
It took me a while to figure out that 156 is my favorite, both for printing and burning dual-cure emulsion. I'm not sure why 110 is considered the "standard," especially if you have a lot of detail going on - but squeezing a HO white onto a dark shirt via 110 for say block athletic numbers is a good choice.
Should I use a 156 mesh to print with plastisol? Also, do I have to go over the print twice on dark garments? I'm doing my printing with a starter kit and plan on using plastisol on black shirts.
+OfficialDRuiz 156 mesh is the most popular screen we sell, I believe it would work well as long as you aren't trying to print something with very fine detail. We recommend using 2 passes for white ink on a black garment. Print once, flash your ink until it's tacky and then print again before curing the ink. This should give you a nice opaque print on your dark garment. Thanks for watching!
Would the 156 or higher be better for the Plastisol black inks. I am just starting out and I made a disaster out of a few shirts using that black Plastisol through 110 ink. It looked like I had a mountain of ink on most prints and it was just Words in Black with one inch letters by maybe 8 inches across the chest solid black.
I was under the impression that mesh was measure by two numbers. The thread count which is usually followed by a T and the mesh thickness which is usually followed by an M. So for example, a "80t 200M mesh." When you say a 120 mesh, which number are you referring to and what is that other number set at?
Great video and thanks for the knowledge I am just about to open my screen printing business soon. I definitely will need some more help, training, and equipment soon so I will be in touch
For halftone images how what size mesh would be great? And also I wanted to know if I have a image that is black and white with no grey tones how would I be able to print it on a black shirt because on a white shirt it comes out exactly how the design is please help
ryonet, how many grams of ink spent for one tshirt, one color. in this case for the same spesification whole of them 110 mesh 125 mesh 156 mesh 230 mesh
+irhas ismail Hey there Irhas this is a really good question but a difficult one to answer. It will be dependent upon the type of ink you're using, the image size and detail, the mesh count, the number of passes, and the amount of pressure being used. Just like Ryan did in this video you could do some testing on your own artwork and see what kinds of savings you can achieve! :D
I take it your thread count is in per inch. In the uk its metric and industry standard is around 47 to 77 count. Less or more depending on various factors.
@tcottarel Plastisol inks are a lot thicker than regular paint, you could pretty much compare the consistency of silk screening textile ink to choclate puddin.
+Dumindu Jayawardena this will likely be very similar so long as its the actual mesh count. Watch out for other forms of measurement though. There is a metric mesh system used in some countries that can confuse things a bit. Here is a table to ensure you're looking at the best number: www.catspitproductionsllc.com/screenmeshconversions.html
@tcottarel just stir it up for a few minutes before using. It should go back to a normal "look". If it doesn't combine up and look normal, then possibly its bad. I got some old ink from another shop and it looked bad until stirred...then all was normal and it printed just fine.
I'm from Brazil and I started to see your videos, I'm really enjoying your lessons on serigraphy It would be perfect if you could come to the annual screen printing trade show that happens every year in São Paulo Brazil
Ryonet That is awesome to know that you can get a soft hand feel using a higher mesh count, using other Ryopaque ink colors (other than white) on black shirts and save money... all at the same time! That saves on making screens, one for light color fabric and one for dark color fabric, this is awesome! thank you Ryan for showing this, often the fine details are left out on many UA-cam video's but he covered it all on this one.
For that, we would suggest printing using a solvent ink. Unfortunately, we do not have any solvent inks on our website. I would connect with the ink manufacturer to see what is the optimal mesh count for the specific ink. :)
Golden Vibes you use a T square, measure width of pallette and Mark center in two places, then draw a line down the center of the pallette. Then put registration marks on the art. Burn art centered on the screen. Then line the screen registration marks to center of the pallette. Then you eye the shirt when you load it. You can make a registration system by taping paper to the back of a screen and draw a grid on it. Then use that as a guide to line up all art on your screens.
@@JBmusicart Exactly what you said. Sometimes you need to be creative I have some designs where I do Front chest and back on same film so it can be tricky
Most likely because the pallet was still tacky from the last time it was used. A lot of printers choose to use a fresh spray of adhesive for each new garment they print. However, this can be a serious waste of adhesive and put unnecessary aerosol into the environment. Try printing multiple shirts with one application of adhesive, it can save you cash over time and lower your impact on the environment. Thanks for watching!
one thing that will you show me a video.how to make a halftone for a image. i have confusion about it. please sir tell me how you make a hlaftone in a photoshop
@tcottarel watch the second half of this video: Printing Ink Additives Seminar - Part 3 of 5 - How to screen print on ryonets channel. The people talk about heat and other issues that may alter the ink for certain reasons. I dunno if it help.
Forgot to mention its not always about saving money, more about the quality of the goods. An old uk comedy series was called Never mind the quality feel the width. About a couple of old jewish tailors if i remember. Makes sense to me lol.
when you do, could you explain when to use what mesh and why ? im new to screen printing and i find the mesh a bit confusing. I know of the basics how ever I havent found much about what image is best to print on what mesh. Please message me when the new video is up Thanks a lot
Ryan Hetkowski You have a point Ryan, it was consistent as humanely possible. But the point is, if you can get the ink to look just as good through a higher mesh screen, you save money on ink. If it doesn't take you much more effort, its a win.
The shirts are not going to begin out of the box weighing the same. The way to do it would be to weigh each shirt before printing, keeping track of the before and after difference, and comparing that.
just a note from someone who developed carpal tunnel screen printing. you say your strokes are the same, but it takes more pressure to clear the higher mesh. fatigue is definitely a factor when printing volume, and if the detail can handle it the 110 would be faster and easier to clear. Time is money and good health is priceless.
This. ^
I can’t agree more with this, as someone who has been screenprinting for about 6 years. Ryan pressed super hard on that high mesh screen😂! Don’t play your health people.
Mann, you’re a gem !
hi there ... thanks to share this.. I have a question for under base color .. I mean printing white on a black tshirt is to much using 305 mesh...
I'm just starting out with my print company, I love this video. Thanks for your insight Sir
very informative....i use a 156 for my underbasing...after watching this I will continue to use a 156 for the underbase but will use 200 and 230's for the actual image colors.
mherring27 hey what does the print(156 or 230) feel like compared to water based inks
So what would you recommend for fine detail. I been using a 230 and it's extremely difficult getting the ink through and having a high opacity finsh
It took me a while to figure out that 156 is my favorite, both for printing and burning dual-cure emulsion. I'm not sure why 110 is considered the "standard," especially if you have a lot of detail going on - but squeezing a HO white onto a dark shirt via 110 for say block athletic numbers is a good choice.
Ryonet, excellent presentation on your mesh comparison.
Thanks!!
Should I use a 156 mesh to print with plastisol? Also, do I have to go over the print twice on dark garments? I'm doing my printing with a starter kit and plan on using plastisol on black shirts.
+OfficialDRuiz 156 mesh is the most popular screen we sell, I believe it would work well as long as you aren't trying to print something with very fine detail. We recommend using 2 passes for white ink on a black garment. Print once, flash your ink until it's tacky and then print again before curing the ink. This should give you a nice opaque print on your dark garment. Thanks for watching!
This is really good smart comparison of mesh TYVM!
Which polyester dot do you use? 44,55,77,90 yarns? Or those 110,125,156 and 230 are equivalent to those points I quoted
?
Hey there! We offer mesh counts from as low as 24 and as high as 305! The mesh size is measured by how many threads cross each other in 1 square inch.
Would the 156 or higher be better for the Plastisol black inks. I am just starting out and I made a disaster out of a few shirts using that black Plastisol through 110 ink. It looked like I had a mountain of ink on most prints and it was just Words in Black with one inch letters by maybe 8 inches across the chest solid black.
Shit, I also have that words print that looks like a mountain of ink. Glad to know this comment lol
I was under the impression that mesh was measure by two numbers. The thread count which is usually followed by a T and the mesh thickness which is usually followed by an M. So for example, a "80t 200M mesh." When you say a 120 mesh, which number are you referring to and what is that other number set at?
rubbleofempires 120 threads per square inch, it is measured differently in different parts of the world.
Great video and thanks for the knowledge I am just about to open my screen printing business soon. I definitely will need some more help, training, and equipment soon so I will be in touch
For halftone images how what size mesh would be great? And also I wanted to know if I have a image that is black and white with no grey tones how would I be able to print it on a black shirt because on a white shirt it comes out exactly how the design is please help
Hallo.on the 230 mesh did you use under base or just print flash print with plastisol.
Hi @Michael Kozia, i believe he used an under base. hope that helps!
ryonet, how many grams of ink spent for one tshirt, one color. in this case for the same spesification whole of them
110 mesh
125 mesh
156 mesh
230 mesh
+irhas ismail Hey there Irhas this is a really good question but a difficult one to answer. It will be dependent upon the type of ink you're using, the image size and detail, the mesh count, the number of passes, and the amount of pressure being used. Just like Ryan did in this video you could do some testing on your own artwork and see what kinds of savings you can achieve! :D
Why don't you use mesh count 16??? From Nepal.. waiting for reply...
Awesome, glad we can help! Make sure to subscribe for more tutorials!
I take it your thread count is in per inch. In the uk its metric and industry standard is around 47 to 77 count. Less or more depending on various factors.
How do you align the second print after the flash so quickly and accurately?
I was wondering if you could do a video on pressing with vinyl for small orders..
@tcottarel Plastisol inks are a lot thicker than regular paint, you could pretty much compare the consistency of silk screening textile ink to choclate puddin.
On 110 MESH
13 grams = 0.459 fl ounce = 15/16 tablespoon
(I buy ink by the gallon)
Gallon = 128 fluid ounces
128/.459 = 278.86
278.86 (PRINTS-a-GALLON)
Am I Right?
Thanks
I am In Saudi Arabia. I found only 140 mesh. can I expect similar configuration of 156 ?
+Dumindu Jayawardena this will likely be very similar so long as its the actual mesh count. Watch out for other forms of measurement though. There is a metric mesh system used in some countries that can confuse things a bit. Here is a table to ensure you're looking at the best number:
www.catspitproductionsllc.com/screenmeshconversions.html
What size should I use to print on glass?
@tcottarel just stir it up for a few minutes before using. It should go back to a normal "look". If it doesn't combine up and look normal, then possibly its bad. I got some old ink from another shop and it looked bad until stirred...then all was normal and it printed just fine.
I'm from Brazil and I started to see your videos, I'm really enjoying your lessons on serigraphy
It would be perfect if you could come to the annual screen printing trade show that happens every year in São Paulo Brazil
nossa feira é ridicula Ian, carrosseis não estampam nada, apenas ficam girando, isso sem contar que a parte de serigrafia é muito pouco, valeu!
will this same concept work with other color inks (Ryopaque inks) on black shirts?
Yes it will!
Ryonet
That is awesome to know that you can get a soft hand feel using a higher mesh count, using other Ryopaque ink colors (other than white) on black shirts and save money... all at the same time! That saves on making screens, one for light color fabric and one for dark color fabric, this is awesome! thank you Ryan for showing this, often the fine details are left out on many UA-cam video's but he covered it all on this one.
Did he flash these in-between? Is that recommended for printing white?
+Matt Allen Yes, flash between white stokes for sure
+Ryonet thanks! Stroke - flash - stroke - flash and done?
Stroke - flash - stroke - cure - done
Great video.
Thank you!
What mesh and ink you suggest me to print on thermapol lunch boxes
For that, we would suggest printing using a solvent ink. Unfortunately, we do not have any solvent inks on our website. I would connect with the ink manufacturer to see what is the optimal mesh count for the specific ink. :)
@@Ryonet ok im waiting
+923121530357 its my whtsapp num please contact here
Ever though about doing forward stroke instead of pull?
IS IT POSIBLE TO CURE WITH THE HEAT PRESS??
Yes it is! Check out this video about curing garments with a heat press: ua-cam.com/video/GiKP_9Slcp0/v-deo.html
saves on shipping too =)
Another great video.
Monofilament or multifilament? Whats the difference?
It's tricky huh?
Can you do with insect net?...
Not certain. you would have to experiment on your own with that one.
Where can i get plastisol samples?
what press are you using?
Thats the Riley Hopkins AERO Series :)
www.screenprinting.com/cat/riley-hopkins-press-aero
which number screen i should use for photo printing on t shirts
dinesh shrestha 305 mesh
I am using 110 mesh but because of your video I'll use 156 😃. thanks.
Awesome! 💚
very good video.
how do you know it is perfectly centered?
Two ways: registration and a trained eye - it does come after a bit of practice :)
Golden Vibes you use a T square, measure width of pallette and Mark center in two places, then draw a line down the center of the pallette. Then put registration marks on the art. Burn art centered on the screen. Then line the screen registration marks to center of the pallette. Then you eye the shirt when you load it. You can make a registration system by taping paper to the back of a screen and draw a grid on it. Then use that as a guide to line up all art on your screens.
In other words, you don't need to use an expensive registration system to register screens. You just need to know what you are doing.
@@JBmusicart Exactly what you said. Sometimes you need to be creative I have some designs where I do Front chest and back on same film so it can be tricky
Use a laser level. Obviously
how come you didn't spray where the shirt goes????
Most likely because the pallet was still tacky from the last time it was used. A lot of printers choose to use a fresh spray of adhesive for each new garment they print. However, this can be a serious waste of adhesive and put unnecessary aerosol into the environment. Try printing multiple shirts with one application of adhesive, it can save you cash over time and lower your impact on the environment. Thanks for watching!
thank you so much !
one thing that will you show me a video.how to make a halftone for a image. i have confusion about it. please sir tell me how you make a hlaftone in a photoshop
dinesh shrestha Research bitmaping halftones, we do not have a video on this but you can find out how to do it on the internet.
There is a really great article here www.screensilk.com/2012/the-secret-to-full-color-screen-printing/
thank you very much
how do you know when to flood and not flood the screen?
+Rotary Addiction Great question, we usually flood our screen before each print stroke. Thanks for watching!
Thank you!
You bet!
I wish I was as clean as he is. I can't touch a bucket of white without it getting all over me.
really helped to me thanks
Thanks a ton for watching! :)
great video
@tcottarel watch the second half of this video: Printing Ink Additives Seminar - Part 3 of 5 - How to screen print on ryonets channel. The people talk about heat and other issues that may alter the ink for certain reasons. I dunno if it help.
thank you very much
Forgot to mention its not always about saving money, more about the quality of the goods. An old uk comedy series was called Never mind the quality feel the width. About a couple of old jewish tailors if i remember. Makes sense to me lol.
Love u!
Which ink did you use ?
jhonatas bastos this is Ryonet White
is this ink plastisol or water base?
I forgot to said that I always print images with a lot of detail.
your videos are soooo helpful... BillNye of shirt science
hah! Thank you!
I love it
well, glad that all my screen are 156
good
you didnt display the 200 mesh results
Kamil Max Sorry about that! This is a pretty old video though, maybe we should remake it?
when you do, could you explain when to use what mesh and why ?
im new to screen printing and i find the mesh a bit confusing. I know of the basics how ever I havent found much about what image is best to print on what mesh.
Please message me when the new video is up
Thanks a lot
That would be awesome !
Let me know when You do
Its funny how she goes from the 2nd to the 3rd and says "this one is better" and than at the end she chooses the 2nd :\
Should've had two more people comparing.
عايز ماكينة
أين تباع
LOL
There is no consistency here. You can't verify you used the same lbs of pressure and flood/squeegee speeds on each screen.
Ryan Hetkowski You have a point Ryan, it was consistent as humanely possible. But the point is, if you can get the ink to look just as good through a higher mesh screen, you save money on ink. If it doesn't take you much more effort, its a win.
^That is true. But results will never be consistent on a manual press. Now if you can move this example over to an automatic...Golden!
"I like" is not a real critique
The "fashion expert" sure seemed wishy-washy. Almost guessed what the best one was. So no, I don't put much emphasis in her judgement.