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I have a Ruggard dry cabinet where I keep the camera bodies and lenses. Ian: when carrying equipment in a bag, do you place them lens down or lens up? I often wonder if having them lens down causes issues with the camera/lens mount. Never drive with equipment in the trunk or rear area (I have a Subaru). I put them on the back seat and run a seat belt throught the straps to secure the bag.
Something I know to do but frequently forget to do - when changing lens out on location, to turn the camera off first. I should take my own advice. LOL
My tip is "do not take un-necessary risks with your gear when taking your shots". It's sometimes scares me seeing some of the places photographers, both amateur and professional, set up their cameras and themselves to try to get that 'unique' shot.
I bought a bag of disposable shower caps to stretch over my camera and lens in bad weather or salt water risk. I think I got about 100 for £5. This works very well when my camera is on my peak design camera clip attached to my backpack strap in the rain.
All good advice Ian. One word of warning to those with DSLRs. The technique for sensor cleaning is very similar to that for mirrorless BUT be aware that the mirror hinge mechanism contains grease (obviously) so keep the cleaning swab away from the mirror hinge. Don’t smear the grease all over the sensor as I did!
Also, if your camera has a sensor with image stabilization, I thought I read somewhere, for certain cameras, you should turn off stabilization (basically lock the sensor) for the sensor so it doesn't move when cleaning. Not sure if that is true, but might be worth a comment from someone knowledgeable on the subject.
Great tips! Some of my own: -For moisture: keep those little silica bags you get with electrical stuff inside your camera bag. Also if your gear sits in the drawers, etc, put some cheap nappies in there. They're super effective moisture traps. -For sensor: Some cameras like sony alfa have a little door that closes in front of the sensor when camera is switched off. Activate it. Also I always use my rocket blower on the back element, when changing the lens. -For wear & tear and uv / salt damage when walking: When your camera is hanging off your neck, just chuck a cloth or t-shirt over it. On the same subject, it's not everyone's cup of tea, but I use a little over the shoulder camera bag. Big enough for just a camera and some batteries / cards. The rest of my gear sits in the back pack, but I can quickly just grab my camera, without even taking the pack back off. -Gear rubbing in the bag: if the dividers are not snug enough or you don't have a proper camera bag, wrap your gear in beanie hats or tuck in some socks, towels, etc to stop stuff from moving and bumping.
Silica packets are not really that useful, due to their size. Best to not bother when in the field and just keep your gear in a dry cabinet when at home (easy to diy)
Agree with the silica packs, I have a couple in every compartment of my camera bags and dry them on a radiator in wintertime ever so often, I also use moisture absorbers in the cupboard I store gear. Never had a problem so far, I don't live in a very humid climate though.
I always carry a shower cap. When the cameras on a tripod you can protect it from rain or sea at the beach. Carry it in your kit next to your camera and it acts as protection. Great channel Ian, thanks. 👍
Avoid radical temperature changes particularly going from cold to to avoid condensation. When coming in from extreme cold, keep your camera in the bag for an hour or too so it can warm up higher than the dew point in a warmer room. This also goes for going from an air conditioned environment into a hot humid environment.
0:00 📷 Starting out in photography can seem pricey, but it's cost-effective once gear is sorted. 0:32 🎒 Use dedicated camera bags or hiking packs with dividers to protect gear from damage. 1:37 🚫 Avoid camera straps that could accidentally drop your camera; consider quick-release straps like Peak Design's. 4:19 🔄 When changing lenses, keep camera and lens caps facing downward to prevent debris on the sensor. 5:10 🌧 Protect gear from elements with microfiber cloths, rocket blowers for water droplets, and avoid using pressurized air. 7:22 🏞 Dust can damage cameras; keep gear in bags until needed in dusty environments like beaches or deserts. 8:01 🌊 After shooting near saltwater, wipe gear down with a damp cloth to prevent salt damage. 9:34 🎥 Tripods can lead to camera falls; ensure quick releases are secure and avoid moving with camera on the tripod. 10:45 🔍 Cleaning sensors yourself is easy with proper tools; blow out dust before swabbing to prevent scratching. 12:20 💧 Store gear in dry places; avoid leaving it in damp environments to prevent moisture damage.
Excellent Video Ian, My Tips would be 1) Never drive from one location a short distance to another with your camera resting on your passenger seat! An emergency Stop will catapult it forward and certainly result in damage/breakage. Yep I learnt the hard way :) 2) Consider purchasing an old Film Camera Changing bag that is used for getting 35mm film, out of the roll onto the developer reel for developing. Poor weather conditions mean you can place Camera, and lenses into the bag and with a little practice these can be changed reasonable easy! Safe and happy shooting everyone
My tip would be store your camera gear in a camera dry cabinet. They are relatively cheap and keep the gear clean and dry. The air temperature and relative humidity can be set and controlled, much like a wine cabinet.
A few additional points related to lens-changing: 1) Make your decision *before* you remove the lens. Don't stand there with the lens off, waffling on which one to use. 2) Lens caps, particularly back caps, should be "last off, first on". Both of these practices help to minimize the amount of the both the sensor and the lens rear elements are exposed. 3) While it might sound like a good idea to change lenses indoors rather than outside when possible, it's not always necessarily true. If there's dust blowing around outside, sure -- Do it indoors. But if, for example, you have pets -- cats in particular -- and / or there's much dust inside (which usually stays aloft since it's a generally breeze-free environment) the air may actually be cleaner outside. 4) Resist the instinctive urge to blow on your lenses in order to remove trash. Maybe you're better at it than me, but invariably I'll think "just one (more) gentle puff" and then *splat* ... moisture flies out of my mouth directly onto the lens and I have to give it a proper cleaning. 😀
I use those moisture absorption packets in my camera bag to help cut down on any humidity in my camera bag. Being in the States, just about everywhere is climate controlled, so indoor humidity doesn't tend to be a problem, but outside is another matter! Being on the eastern coast, outdoor humidity typically runs 60% plus, not great for electronics. Side note: moisture absorbing packets don't last forever. You can remove the moisture from them by placing them in a warm oven for 15 to 20 minutes, which removes most of the moisture. However, it's best to just replace them occasionally.
I've also experienced fungus growing inside the lenses in the past, after having them stored and unused for long periods of time in high humidity environments. So, 2 years ago I got one of those dry cabinet / dehumidifier cabinets to store camera gear (a small Sirui HC-40X) and I just store my gear inside it all the time. It keeps the camera and lenses in a controlled humidity environment and so far no issues, so I'd highly recommend investing on one of those.
I started using desiccant in my gear bag. What I do is purchase a box of camper van or trailer moisture absorber and then grab a little amount of it put it in a little sox and then put the sox in the camera bag. similar technic to what company do in packaging most good. And then yes avoid everything like you mentioned. I also have tried a few more things under the rain. An umbrella fixed to the back pack is kind of complicated. But I also carry a military poncho and put it on top of everything including myself when the rain hits. I can actually manage to even take the picture from the hood on top of the camera never having it in the rain. I can set everything, including the tripod from under the poncho. Since I am using a fanny bag, a but bag and a messenger bag all together, I don't even need to put things down to set things up. I found great advantages with the umbrella: the capacity to walk with breathing clothing under the rain. It is actually awesome. Later, I found that the poncho if worn sporadically if the rain comes and go, do almost as good. I have considered the use of a rain skirt along with the umbrella, following few hikers impressions. It is probably the most comfortable approach under heavy rain. Since I also do photography while kayaking, I have started carrying my gear in a plastic water tight suit case (Pellican). With the use of ratchet straps, I can tie the all thing to my kayak or bicycle with ease. But I also started doing it in replacement of my butt bag. It works very well and could not be safer. It frees me from a poncho or umbrella clumsiness, but it forces me to put the harness down and expose the camera to weather during photography procedures. A simple sling made of a rope tied in loop can prevent the harness to be put on the ground and be suspended to a three. Still the case should rest on the ground to prevent things from falling when the case is opened. The advantage of this method is that I can wear regular rain gear. It is much more comfortable then the poncho, and more convenient and wind proof then the umbrella, but you tend to sweat more. It is also much easier to go through branches and to cross people, it also less of a complication to set things up. I find that pictures are less interesting in heavy rain. Reason being that water droplets, reflects the grey sky has they fall and the heavier the rain and the farther the subject, the greyer and dull the photo. So, most likely, pictures would not append in dangerous conditions. In case of necessity, an umbrella or the poncho could still save the day! I also put a desiccant pouch in this camera gear case. With this set-up I still use the messenger bag and fanny bag for less precious gear. If I can put regular rain gear, it remain complicated to protect theses two bags since I won't carry an umbrella or poncho in this circumstance. To take the harness off, I have to take the messenger bag of my neck first, but it still save me a bunch of misery. I have tried another idea few years ago that might be of interest. I don't practice it anymore, but I thing it might be brought back at some point. I discovered that a plastic tarp can be folded neatly, stuffed with a light foam tent one person folding (accordion type) 1/2" mattress folded in two or three, too which a rope could be affixed, to two corner of the tarp, to make it in a rigid waterproof cape or shield. It can this way be flipped to the side the rain comes from, as you walk. This set up is highly breathable still. Main idea is to provide a mattress to kneel or lay down to do macro or wildlife shots without soiling anything. It can also be used to drop gear on the ground and protect it from dirt or wetness. If the tarp is camo, then it can also, to a degree, shade your presence to wildlife. It can also be converted in a shelter ultimately. It is also very light and cheap and if the apparatus is folded with caution, it can also serve as a bag to carry some of the light gear in. But yes, people might think you are a weirdo fake superman as you cross their way! You might have lots of explanation to do! It is also not as interesting to bring when it is not raining.
Excellent tips! Particularly the dehumidifier. I want to mention a few additional things that I find should be taken into consideration. First tip - the shutter mechanism is more fragile than the sensor. In fact, blowing dust into the sensor area is perhaps most damaging to the shutter mechanism which can potentially accelerate the instance of a shutter mechanism failure. Therefore in very dirty situations I believe one shouldl take care and try to avoid blowing dust into the shutter mechanism, and instead a sensor cleaning kit may be a better idea as it uses special tools and doesn't blow dust around in the shutter mech. Also another tip - If hiking with camera gear and you decide to run downhill, particularly if relying on the Peak Design capture clip to hold the camera, a camera may bounce up and down abruptly if hot held against your body by your hand. The abrupt bouncing may permanently damage the VR or OSS mechanisms in a lens (I had this happen). There is also concern with some camera bodies such as Sony Alpha cameras, where the IBIS mechanism does not lock down the sensor when the camera is off (unlike Nikon Z), thus bouncing the camera body may induce wear and tear on the floating sensor mechanism. Also, some cameras have an option to close the shutter to "protect the sensor" from dust, but ironically, it is the shutter mechanism that is more important to protect from dust, and is way more fragile than the sensor. Therefore the use of this feature is not recommended by many professionals. One last point: lens caps, filters, and hoods. If there is risk a lens cap or filter may come off the lens while hiking, it may actually end up scratching the front lens element. Therefore ensure these are secure from coming off or do not use them at all - i.e. consider using a lens hood on while in the bag as they are often more secure. Also lens hood absorbs impact better than a UV filter. I advise against buying UV filters to protect lenses, instead the lens hood is particularly more effective at helping protect a camera/lens from impacts or bumps.
Any time that I buy something that comes with a silica gel sachet in, I pop the sachet in a tupperware container with sealable lid. Keep them nice and dry and you'll always have plenty to hand when they're needed to keep moisture away from your gear in storage.
Are your camera bags airtight? If not, those silica gel packets will be soaking in moisture from all the air around your bag, and once saturated, they then start giving off moisture, making your bag more humid. There's a reason why manufacturers only ship them with items that are also in plastic bags, to seal them from outside air.
@@Sean-Smith-Photos check them regularly, and dry them or replace them once they get fully saturated, because at that point they start adding moisture to your gear, rather than removing it.
GREAT tips here 👏🏻 I'll add, consider getting a Ruggard Dry Cabinet for storage. De-humidifier is great too (especially for your cottage) but a dry cabinet is SO nice to have. Also keeps dust off everything, runs completely silent. Set it to about 45%, as TOO dry is not good either. I have the EDC-50L model, it was $130 (on sale, normally $199 here in the US) and it holds 7 lenses and two bodies, including a large telephoto zoom (larger Nikon gear).
8:20 - if your buttons/dials stop working or do the "auto-press" thing where they glitch out and keep pressing by themselves, I recommend trying an electrical contact cleaner spray + a drinking straw that you flatten on one side so you can jam it under the button/dial. Did wonders with my a6300 - dials kept changing modes and this cured it!
Hi ian. I would like to bring your attention to the camera bag. I have more than 1 bag .the reason for this is the bags are heavily padded and so are the inserts to separate the equipment. I always clean all of my equipment after a days photography .so i leave the camera bag open in a warm cupboard for a few days to air out .and then use the other camera bag. I believe this will save you and the viewers any problems with moisture and mould. Also, vacuum your bag out regularly Great videos. David
Tripods: my camera was slightly tilted in the tripod and when I unclipped the plate, the camera slipped to the floor... I usually, and now make sure I have one hand on camera before releasing tripod plate. I also wrap my camera strap around my wrist before and while I use the tripod.
Great tips! Regarding moisture, what I do is keep dessicant pouches in everything. My gear cabinet, all my bags, in lens pouches. Basically, if my gear is somewhere even semi-enclosed, I make sure there is a pouch or 2 with it. These pouches are inexpensive, and they have colour indicators on them to let you know when to change them. You can even dry them out and reuse them. A simple approach to help keep your gear dry.
I definitely think you make a very good point about camera bags. People will spend $3000 on a camera but they're not prepared to spend $300 on a good camera bag. There are some great new ones around that are also designed better for your back as well, and you don't want to be hurting your back. I often see people saying oh I need to get lighter gear weight has nothing and I say nothing to do with hurting your back. It's actually how the backpack fits and sits on your hips. You can carry actually cause some quite heavy gear. If it sits in the right spot on your body I've done a lot of adventuring hiking and I'm talking about 1000 km 2000 km hikes and how your backpack fits is critical and thankfully a lot of the newer photography bags that I'm seeing actually designed now by hiking companies. Do not skimp and get cheap bags is my honest advice especially as they often have poor dividers inside the bag. I even have separate little covers that go over each individual camera. They're just really cheap actually they're kind of just go around each lens and camera body and they do protect them as well from dust and certain things like that. The other thing I do is actually use a vacuum cleaner on my bag once a week I take the bag out take all the dividers out and give it a really good clean. That micro cloth you can get in bags as well and that's the ones I'm talking about that go over the actual camera lenses and you can even buy camera lens holders as well ... Thanks for your video. Always like your dedication and your meticulous approach. I'm very meticulous with my gear as I have GFX gear. That's worth a lot of money. I've just reached purchased also a Ulanzi sorry to promote a product but they actually do an electric blower now that has three settings on it so you don't need to use the rocket blower. If you don't like squeezing the damn thing the electric blower I've got is USB and it's fantastic and it has three settings so you don't damage your camera gear but it's great for getting hard to move dust that sometimes doesn't move with the.
Good vid and good comments - i'll try to add one.... Be attentive to the environmental conditions when changing lenses - pointing orifices downwards is only a good habit when there's nothing that's coming upwards - ie driven sand... swirling dust... rising ground moisture... a swarm of gnats, etc. And always be mindful of wind-direction too. Cheers.
Very good reminders Ian. Thanks. Better safe than ... As a one-handed southpaw I often use a tripod or a monopod. I've taken to using a quick release camera strap when using my monopod and carry my camera by the strap over one shoulder, sling fashion, with the monopod collapsed, but only while on easy walking surfaces. Over large rocks or uneven ground everything goes back in the bag. I invested a lot of thought and time into figuring out how to setup my gear, even to be able to safely pick it up one-handed, let alone the cost. So, safety first. Cheers Ian from across the pond.
Great tips! I have some reusable silica gel packs you can microwave to dry out. In the bag and also in the box I use to store lenses when not using them for a bit. they go green when damp so also helps me be mindful about situations where my pack gets damp - sleep in my with it and it can get quite a bit of condensation.
All great advice!! One thing I do is add those silica packs to my camera bag to help combat any moisture. I keep a few floating around in the main bag and then one in the pocket where I keep my extra cards/gear.
I had exactly the same 'moisture and mould' issue with some Canon lenses that I was trading in. Unfortunately, my lenses, not being high end, were classed as 'uneconomical to repair'. I was disappointed with this as these lenses were kept in a proper camera bag and in a dry, well ventilated room. I have changed from Canon to Fuji and I must admit that my Canon lenses had not been used for a while. I have since read that the best way to avoid mould growing in your lenses is to use them outside, as UV light prevents mould spores from growing on surfaces. My Fuji camera is in constant use and I have now only got two lenses for my X-T5, so that they are used constantly too. A good argument for not having loads of gear and also for getting out taking photos!
One thing I use is silicon packs as desiccant. Every time you purchase a piece of camera equipment or electronics the packing usually contains silicon packs as a desiccant. I usually save the desiccant packs and toss them in my camera bag. Change them every so often. If you don't purchase a lot of things with desiccant packs, you can buy them relatively cheaply on-line. I also purchase the camera raincoats for use in case it gets a bit wet. Keep your kit dry! Also, when I'm walking, I always keep my camera stuck lens down in a soft bag with the camera strap around my neck for safety. I never let my camera hang loose around my neck when walking - especially when moving through bush. I always keep the camera on the front of my body when moving where it's easier to protect in case of mishap. Had a few injuries but saved the camera! When you're shooting wildlife, you always need your camera ready.
Such good advice I don't think enough UA-cam videos having made about this subject! I always feel weary when changing lenses at the job site. Bugs and their wings get squished accidentally on your fingers and can get into your camera sensor and lens.
Great tips Ian. I always use the hood to protect the front element and as I had a similar report a few years ago when trading a lens I now have a dry cabinet with the humidity set to 40%. No problems so far. Well worth the £120 investment and it fits all my lenses!
If I am shooting in a precarious positions whether on a tripod or not, I use a wrist strap, although it can be quite challenging with the camera tethered to your wrist, at least if the camera or tripod should slip it would not go far and hopefully save the camera from damage..
Watch fallen leaves covering exposed tree roots. Cover your gear with a parka when bringing it in from cold . Leave for 4 to 8 hours. Use two cameras with a favorite lens on each so as to avoid changing lenses in the elements. Give a freshly mounted camera on a tripod a shake before moving hands away. Arca Swiss connectors are worth the money. Please do not ask how I learned all this.
Thank you! 👍 My only observation on camera bags is that no matter how expensive they may seem, when you consider the eyewaterinw cost of cameras and lenses, the expense is insignificant.
Do you hate watching UA-cam videos when pros hold their strapless camera in one hand whilst negotiating tricky terrain, walking in a busy street or holding it over a cliff to get a shot? I always use a wrist strap or if I might need two hands for balance then a neck strap.
Shooting in very dusty/sandy conditions (in my example mountain biking in hot dry dusty summer) its best to use UV filter on front lens element - you will be blowing and wiping these constantly and inevitably you will wear away front element coatings or scratch lens etc - so this is the one time a front UV makes good sense. If you scratch it or wear it out - its cheap to replace vs front element. If I am out in very cold / damp / winter conditions when I return home I leave the gear in the bag until it warms up a for an hour or so - that way a cold camera lens etc wont attract a lot of condensation - also I remove SD cards to copy photos and do not power up camera or plug it into mains etc until I know its thoroughly dry. Open up all of the bag compartments and remove gear to allow full drying. Fully zoom lenses and remove end and front caps so no moisture is trapped inside these areas.
Enjoyed the video as usual Ian. Really good tips, so thanks for sharing. My tip would be, try and use a lens hood to save your lens from damage, although sometimes i don't through laziness and really should remember. I was reading the tips and the one from Greg C i thought was really good , was use a UV filter which i have got and will be using it in the future. Catch you on the next one.
Great content and video as usual, thank you! Several years ago I moved to a more humid climate and stored my 70-200 in a camera bag for a year while I was traveling and it developed mold on the lens. Now, I store my camera gear in a dry cabinet. Lesson learned. I often travel on a sailboat for extended periods and hope that silica packs will be enough to keep moisture under control.
Thank you for another great and informative video. We also stay in an old cottage with solid stone walls but ours is in SW Scotland. We also use a dehumidifier every couple of days and I also put several silica bags is each compartment of my camera bag. In every jacket and pair of walking I use I have several disposable shower caps to offer additional protection to camera and lenses while in use and waiting to take a shot. They are also handy for short walks when I carry my camera on a Peak Design strap and do not carry my camera bag.
I would say be careful with high shots per second. Don't use it continuously. It can break the sensor. Happened twice to me and a few others. Camera shop said the sensor gets too hot then lines of dead pixels appear.
I use the Silica packets and store my lenses in their cases each with one of those packets. I use a camera strap that has not only the clip but a secondary safety tie/strap. I clip to the lens mount when doing that to keep the weight of the lens off the camera/lens mounting ring. I use a sling bag with a side access to keep the weight down and for easy access to the camera and one additional lens as well as cleaning items.
My best investment in photography equipment is the Rocket Blower. I blow the dust off the camera / lens mount area BEFORE removing the lens while making a change. Much like a reputable auto mechanic who blows dirt out of the spark plug cavities before removal to keep dirt from entering and damaging the cylinder interior.
Good tips thanks Ian. I keep a number of silica gel sachets in my camera bag which luckily isn’t against an external wall. I also have a number of vintage lenses kept on a shelf, but each one is in a hard case with a silica gel sachet. Hopefully that is working ok 🤞P.S. that path looked a bit precarious!
I carry a dry bag around so if i need to do a lens change in windy, dusty or damp conditions, I do it inside the bag. I also use "rechargeable" silica gel sachets in my bag.
I use a large silica gel bag for the humid control and a digital monitor in a cupboard. You can dry the bag out on a radiator, it has blue patch that turns red and reuse.
You mentioned you had a drop incident with a strap. What I usually do when carrying my camera with the strap when it’s not around my neck is I will wrap it once or twice around my wrist near the right end of the strap near the grip. That way if it ever slips out of my hand or the strap catches on to something it won’t fall and drop.
I recommend using a hand strap. It keeps the camera safe(if it's a good one) and no strap to get in the way. I never swap lens, as when I'm taking my camera out, I'm mostly on a mountain bike ride. But to protect the camera from impact on mountain bike rides or just in general from impacts, I keep it in my backpack between two thick elbow pads, in a small bag that came with bed sheets, I keep a microfiber towel there too to wipe the lens. There is a back protector plate that wraps around it, and keep the back pack tight. So me crashing on a ride or slipping and falling when walking won't make a dent in the camera or lens. But a thing that can harm a lens is when you get big force or impact forcing the lens off the mount. But I try to keep it snug and padded up So I'm probably good. but dropping a massive lens on the ground with the camera, the lens can rip off the mount, I saw pictures of that.
Years ago I had mould issues with some gear. Then I realised that the built-in wardrobe where I keep it shared a wall with the onsuite shower on the other side. 🐯
Another option for equipment storage especially if you live ina damp environment is a dedicated storage cabinet with a built in dehumidifier. I have a Forspark brand and it keeps my equipment stored at a dry 40% relative humidity.
I custom made some over the shoulder/ across chest straps for myself, mostly with components from amazon. Re-did or modified a guitar strap which turned out really comfy when using my larger telephoto lens so it hangs at the hip kind of and you barely feel the weight. But for regular small lenses and walking around, I prefer just to hold it without straps as well, then when done just put it back in my backpack.
Internal lens fungus is a huge problem in warm, humid environments -- like the tropics. I've lost a bunch of nice lenses that way. I now keep my gear in drybags with very large desiccant containers -- the size of a medium/small lens. I buy the desiccant in bulk, and get the type that has a color change indicator to show when it is saturated. The wet silica can be microwaved to drive off the moisture, and then re-used. The stuff I use is dark blue when it's dry and pink when it's wet.
9:17 Always close your bag, these extra five seconds will prevent your equipment from falling out if you forget that the bag is open. I learned it the hard way by damaging two lenses.
Great video as always Ian. The one thing that I always do that I'm not sure whether it's a good practice or not is I leave always leave my lens attached to my camera, even once I get home I'll take my battery out and recharge them, I'll take my cards out and store them but I never separate my lens and put the cap on and a cap on the body. Is this a good thing or a bad thing? Cheers Ian.
I’m with you , I even take that to the next level of having two bodies one with a 24-105 on one and a 100-500. I really try to minimise lens changing . 😀 Dust is bad enough on stills but can be easily removed in post but on video I don’t know how to get rid of it with my video editor. 😀
Excellent video Ian, with regards to storing your camera, if you are storing your camera withs worth keeping it in a sealed tuppaware box with some big bags of silica gel.
I have a similar problem with damp as my home has solid stone walls also. I use an airtight Vanguard Waterproof Case and keep it between 40-50% humidity using silica gel bags and a ThermoPro TP50 hygrometer bought of Amazon.
Good video. I'd highly recommend you get a Peak Design Capture Clip so you have your camera closer to you and can take some more shots as opposed to always having to put the bag down and get it out again.
Nice vid, a good list you put together, glad I already do most of these things, I thought I was overdoing it so its good see its reasonble treatment of gear.
Hi Ian. One thing that killed a lens I had was fungus in the body of the lens. A real lens destroyer! Like you, it was a lens i hadn’t used for a long time (a Sigma 150-600 kept in a cupboard in its case) and sent for trade-in. Completely unaware. Virtually unrepairable due to the cost of repair versus value of the lens. I now store my gear out of any case and surrounded by ‘drying’ sachets that I change regularly.
With consideration of camera falling, I have a rope with the two ends in a sufficiently large loop to pass the camera through. Since I carry it in a messenger bag, I make sure this rope is short enough to retain the camera from hitting the ground if I drop it. But I also measure this when the bag is brought to the front while standing. This allow me to have enough length to work the camera without untying it. But it also allow me to use the bag as a cushion to improve my hand held stability. One end of the rope goes through the eyelet of the left side on the camera and then around the camera. It then synch around the eyelet. Same eyelet where the strap would go. Only I don't use a strap. I use my camera bag strap! The other end of the rope also goes around an hanker point on the bag and the camera through its loop. It is from this height that I adjust the length of the rope. I adjust it as short as possible for it to be comfortable to work the camera on the tripod and avoid untying it. Instead of making sure to always have a grip on the camera, I make sure to never sit or crouch when my camera is off the bag. But if I do lower work, obviously I will have to be more careful. A side advantage of this method is that I can lower the camera in suspension form the rope while I work things in the bag using it as a work bench! When I am done with the lenses cap, filters, choice of lenses swap or else, I can pull the camera back at the ready! I am using paracord 220 for this and mine makes about 80cm tied to the bag and the camera. I have been interested in the Peek design strap clips for a while. But this cheap alternative is in my opinion much better. I might loose 3 seconds in taking the rope on and off over these clips when high wind flaps the rope and increase vibration of the tripod. Yet you gain a bunch of affordability, availability, durability and strength. And when the rope is off, you don't have these plastic clips still flapping around. Plus instead of tying to a regular camera strap it ties to the camera bag. This makes one less strap to be tangled in! This last advantage have another consequence. Since the camera follow the waterproof bag during the photography, when completed it returns in right away by necessity. I don't just keep it out. So the ease of access makes it more convenient to maximize the protection of the camera.
I keep my cameras in holster type bags and carry them in a backpack. I try and avoid changing lenses on location due to the risk of dust etc. When you have been taking photos long enough you get to know which lens will be the best to put on for what you want to photograph for any particular photo shoot. I do prefer to use straps and always leave the strap on around my neck when attaching and removing the camera from a tripod. This prevents as you point out a risk of a fall before the camera mounting plate clicks into the tripod head. This is particularly important at night when the alignment points on the tripod head are hard to see.
Something that costs no money: stop down your lens's aperture rings to their smallest opening before transport. Keeps things mechanically tight and can help reduce any debris from entering the element. Something that costs money: per your last point, you can get a Ruggard dry cabinet on sale from B&H pretty regularly. It looks super sleek and the 80L can hold a handful of bodies, lenses, and other moisture-sensitive items. I just picked one up because I live in Florida where it gets super humid, plus I was tired of dust and pet hairs coating my stuff every week and I can rest easy knowing I won't have to dust off my gear or worry about mold.
Excellent video with some fantastic tips! Moreover, some of these images are absolutely stunning, especially at 1:50. Wow! Keep up the great work, my friend!
good advise on most parts with looking after your camera kit. no lens wipes only q tips, as for camera straps I tried them all and eventually found the perfect strap system. nothing has ever come close no not black rapid its the carry speed, expensive but a fantastic investment I carry heavy kit 7dmk2, 2 x 1dmk3 plus 400, f2.8 500 f4 etc used the black rapid system, very poor quality for the large sum of money. 10 years using carry speed system, never failed me in any way and still working perfect.
If you use an Arca-Swiss quick release plate on a different head to the one it came with then double check the head actually grips it. I discovered to my horror that a Gitso QR plate is very slightly different to others and when I attached it with the camera to the tripod head it slid right off, despite having tightened the mount. I have also now put on the security nut in the head plates as an extra precaution.
The way i change lenses I have come up with, i think is the most efficient. Let's say camera body caps and lens caps are all on, I first unscrew my lens back cap without taking it off, leave the lens on the floor facing down and have a quick glimpse on where the markings are. Now, I can quickly take off my body caps with the camera facing down and throw the cap (in windy days I cover the camera body with my body, too, at this time), take off the lens back cap and fit it in the camera body in under 1 second. After I screw and click it on, then I can take off the lens front cap and pick up the body cap from where i tossed it. :P That's the bare minimum amount of time for my mirror and sensor to be exposed. Although I use my equipment frequently and I do not have to store it for prolonged periods, I keep it all inside my camera bag WITH small anti-moisture bags (like the ones inside of new shoes' boxes). Haven't had any problem ever.
If you have tall telephoto lenses and set it on the ground when you're changing out your lens, be careful not to knock it over, it's especially risky in high winds as it's easier to fall over due to the wind. I damaged a lens hood that way as my lens was sitting wide end down as I was changing lenses and about to put that lens back in m my camera bag. The lens fell over and rolled before I could get it back in the bag due to the wind.
Absolutely, I still get clammy hands recalling when I stood with my back a couple of yards from to a cliff taking a sunset and became so absorbed I completely forgot about the drop behind me. Luckily I only moved sideways not backwards!
Absolutely, I still get clammy hands recalling when I stood with my back a couple of yards from a cliff taking a sunset and became so absorbed I completely forgot about the drop behind me. Luckily I only moved sideways not backwards!
You used to be able to buy blower brushes to clean camera gear, I don't know if they're still available, but they're a waste of money because they often shed fibres where they're not wanted. Instead visit an art store and buy good quality Watercolour brushes. Get a few of different sizes. They are great for removing dust and the fine ones will get into those normally inaccessible corners and crevices.
TIP: Everyone probably knows about the basic wiping camera gear down which was mentioned in the video, but think about if you trip or slip on a muddy hillside or a tripod happens to fall over. If you get mud covering part of your camera and lens do what I came up with. Grab a standard soft toothbrush and cut it in half or more to make it smaller for storage. Then you'll have a great tool to clean mud from under the small levers on your equipment. Please note that mud smears so let it dry and harden a little bit.
Go to your local optician and get a lens cleaning kit from there. This consists of a spray bottle of lens cleaning fluid and a microfibre cloth. Never wipe dust off the lens with a dry cloth. I also carry a small makeup brush in my bag which I use to clean the inevitable dust off the outside of the camera and lenses.
@@ian_worth Why do you find the lens hood a pain to carry? All my lenses are equipped with hoods for wildlife photography as they only weigh a few grams and are inexensive way to protect an expensive lens without adding extra glass.
I use dry and dry (desiccant packets) inside a steel cabinet that holds my camera gear (lenses, bodies, etc) so every few weeks you just pop the dry and dry in the microwave on defrost to refresh the dry and dry so it can continue to absorb moisture and keep the humidity in the cabinet down. You can also get humidity sensors to monitor the cabinet, even reptile or pet stores have them! :) hope that helps someone!
I use a padded lunch bag to hold my camera. But I also don't go on long hikes with my camera, just shoot at local places. Ooh, I need one of those rocket blowers. Helps when framing to clear out dust and stuff, too.
When coming in from the cold (very cold, much below freezing) I would seal the camera and lens in a zip lock bag in the cold dry air before coming indoors. Taking it out after it warmed up.
Buy desiccant packages (the little packets that say do not eat that come in clothes and different products to keep them dry) and keep them in your camera cube and wherever you keep your gear, changing them out every once in a while for new ones. Then when you’ve exposed any of your gear to moisture or our storing it for long periods of time, you will know that it is staying dry. 👍
I have a small camera bag that I put on my shoulder and then on my hip. I usually have my camera ready to hand in there with the lens already attached. Now my question is whether it is harmful to leave the body and the lens together when walking. Or should I really only put everything together when I think there might be a nice motif?
Not sure about this one but I think it makes sense to store lenses standing up instead of flat to avoid deformation over a long period of time. I wont have to worry about moisture here atleast. Its super dry. I actually get dry skin which isnt healthy but atleast the lenses will be safe.
During high humidity times of year I keep my gear in hard cases that are sealed (Pelican type) loaded with silicon dry pouches. Lenses should go nose down. I take them out and place in bag or backpack only when I use them.
Man rain every day !😮 I have always lived in sunny California central coast and northern central California. At the most storms rolling through in the winter and spring
A thing that happened to me during a vacation: I slept in the upper part of a bunk bed and had my stuff on the lower bed. Once when I climbed down, I stepped on the edge of the lower matress and bent it down, what caused a lens to roll off the matress and fall onto the floor.
2:36 I designed and 3D-printed a cup for lenses. It is closed on both sides with a integrated bayonet for the lens. This means that up to two lenses can be safely transported in one box without touching each other. And it's very usefull for storage with some "Container Dry"
If you have any tips or tricks for caring for your valuable camera gear, please drop a comment below and if you're looking to improve your photo editing skills, consider checking out the photographers clubhouse - Join The Photographers Clubhouse -
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I have a Ruggard dry cabinet where I keep the camera bodies and lenses. Ian: when carrying equipment in a bag, do you place them lens down or lens up? I often wonder if having them lens down causes issues with the camera/lens mount. Never drive with equipment in the trunk or rear area (I have a Subaru). I put them on the back seat and run a seat belt throught the straps to secure the bag.
Something I know to do but frequently forget to do - when changing lens out on location, to turn the camera off first. I should take my own advice. LOL
My tip is "do not take un-necessary risks with your gear when taking your shots". It's sometimes scares me seeing some of the places photographers, both amateur and professional, set up their cameras and themselves to try to get that 'unique' shot.
I bought a bag of disposable shower caps to stretch over my camera and lens in bad weather or salt water risk. I think I got about 100 for £5. This works very well when my camera is on my peak design camera clip attached to my backpack strap in the rain.
All good advice Ian. One word of warning to those with DSLRs. The technique for sensor cleaning is very similar to that for mirrorless BUT be aware that the mirror hinge mechanism contains grease (obviously) so keep the cleaning swab away from the mirror hinge. Don’t smear the grease all over the sensor as I did!
Great advice 👍
Also, if your camera has a sensor with image stabilization, I thought I read somewhere, for certain cameras, you should turn off stabilization (basically lock the sensor) for the sensor so it doesn't move when cleaning. Not sure if that is true, but might be worth a comment from someone knowledgeable on the subject.
@@don7117Seeing how my sensor moves around when I look at it exposed I believe this is true.
Excellent tip. Thank you very much.
Good thing its not the sensor you are cleaning anyway, its a durable bit of glass with your uv/ir filter.
Great tips! Some of my own:
-For moisture: keep those little silica bags you get with electrical stuff inside your camera bag. Also if your gear sits in the drawers, etc, put some cheap nappies in there. They're super effective moisture traps.
-For sensor: Some cameras like sony alfa have a little door that closes in front of the sensor when camera is switched off. Activate it. Also I always use my rocket blower on the back element, when changing the lens.
-For wear & tear and uv / salt damage when walking: When your camera is hanging off your neck, just chuck a cloth or t-shirt over it. On the same subject, it's not everyone's cup of tea, but I use a little over the shoulder camera bag. Big enough for just a camera and some batteries / cards. The rest of my gear sits in the back pack, but I can quickly just grab my camera, without even taking the pack back off.
-Gear rubbing in the bag: if the dividers are not snug enough or you don't have a proper camera bag, wrap your gear in beanie hats or tuck in some socks, towels, etc to stop stuff from moving and bumping.
Great tips 👍
Silica packets are not really that useful, due to their size. Best to not bother when in the field and just keep your gear in a dry cabinet when at home (easy to diy)
@@theBaron001 Yeah. And in humid climates, those bags get saturated extremely quickly and become useless anyway.
Agree with the silica packs, I have a couple in every compartment of my camera bags and dry them on a radiator in wintertime ever so often, I also use moisture absorbers in the cupboard I store gear. Never had a problem so far, I don't live in a very humid climate though.
Yep, didn’t see this before I said the same thing. My bag, cube, etc always has those desiccant packs in them
I always carry a shower cap. When the cameras on a tripod you can protect it from rain or sea at the beach. Carry it in your kit next to your camera and it acts as protection.
Great channel Ian, thanks. 👍
Avoid radical temperature changes particularly going from cold to to avoid condensation. When coming in from extreme cold, keep your camera in the bag for an hour or too so it can warm up higher than the dew point in a warmer room. This also goes for going from an air conditioned environment into a hot humid environment.
Great advice 👍
I learnt this the hard way 😢
In the bag….what bag? The camera bag, or a ziploc bag?
I use my car as a step in between.... in my garage its always 12-15°c
@@k4kafka I leave it in the camera bag. You can put it in a zip lock bag inside the camera bag if your really paranoid.
0:00 📷 Starting out in photography can seem pricey, but it's cost-effective once gear is sorted.
0:32 🎒 Use dedicated camera bags or hiking packs with dividers to protect gear from damage.
1:37 🚫 Avoid camera straps that could accidentally drop your camera; consider quick-release straps like Peak Design's.
4:19 🔄 When changing lenses, keep camera and lens caps facing downward to prevent debris on the sensor.
5:10 🌧 Protect gear from elements with microfiber cloths, rocket blowers for water droplets, and avoid using pressurized air.
7:22 🏞 Dust can damage cameras; keep gear in bags until needed in dusty environments like beaches or deserts.
8:01 🌊 After shooting near saltwater, wipe gear down with a damp cloth to prevent salt damage.
9:34 🎥 Tripods can lead to camera falls; ensure quick releases are secure and avoid moving with camera on the tripod.
10:45 🔍 Cleaning sensors yourself is easy with proper tools; blow out dust before swabbing to prevent scratching.
12:20 💧 Store gear in dry places; avoid leaving it in damp environments to prevent moisture damage.
Excellent Video Ian, My Tips would be
1) Never drive from one location a short distance to another with your camera resting on your passenger seat! An emergency Stop will catapult it forward and certainly result in damage/breakage. Yep I learnt the hard way :)
2) Consider purchasing an old Film Camera Changing bag that is used for getting 35mm film, out of the roll onto the developer reel for developing. Poor weather conditions mean you can place Camera, and lenses into the bag and with a little practice these can be changed reasonable easy!
Safe and happy shooting everyone
Wouldn’t it be a lot easier to use a transparent plastic/polythene bag than an opaque film loading bag? That way you you can see what you’re doing.
@@emotown1 All down to personal choice, mine is the camera bag. :)
@@alexwaterton9769 Well, hats off to you, it's a good idea. I might borrow it.
@@emotown1 Might work, though plastics generally attract dust.
@@sharvo6 True. On the other hand plastic bags are cheap. And a new one won't have any dust inside.
My tip would be store your camera gear in a camera dry cabinet. They are relatively cheap and keep the gear clean and dry. The air temperature and relative humidity can be set and controlled, much like a wine cabinet.
That's a great idea!
my “cheap” $150 dry cabinet doesn’t let you control temperature, just relative humidity.
A few additional points related to lens-changing: 1) Make your decision *before* you remove the lens. Don't stand there with the lens off, waffling on which one to use. 2) Lens caps, particularly back caps, should be "last off, first on". Both of these practices help to minimize the amount of the both the sensor and the lens rear elements are exposed. 3) While it might sound like a good idea to change lenses indoors rather than outside when possible, it's not always necessarily true. If there's dust blowing around outside, sure -- Do it indoors. But if, for example, you have pets -- cats in particular -- and / or there's much dust inside (which usually stays aloft since it's a generally breeze-free environment) the air may actually be cleaner outside. 4) Resist the instinctive urge to blow on your lenses in order to remove trash. Maybe you're better at it than me, but invariably I'll think "just one (more) gentle puff" and then *splat* ... moisture flies out of my mouth directly onto the lens and I have to give it a proper cleaning. 😀
Great advice Len 👍
I use those moisture absorption packets in my camera bag to help cut down on any humidity in my camera bag. Being in the States, just about everywhere is climate controlled, so indoor humidity doesn't tend to be a problem, but outside is another matter! Being on the eastern coast, outdoor humidity typically runs 60% plus, not great for electronics.
Side note: moisture absorbing packets don't last forever. You can remove the moisture from them by placing them in a warm oven for 15 to 20 minutes, which removes most of the moisture. However, it's best to just replace them occasionally.
not sure if I'd want to put those chemical-filled packets in the safe space I bake my food...
@@CivilStig
Silica Gel surely is a dangerous chemical 🤡
Even baking powder is more of a concern 😂
I've also experienced fungus growing inside the lenses in the past, after having them stored and unused for long periods of time in high humidity environments. So, 2 years ago I got one of those dry cabinet / dehumidifier cabinets to store camera gear (a small Sirui HC-40X) and I just store my gear inside it all the time. It keeps the camera and lenses in a controlled humidity environment and so far no issues, so I'd highly recommend investing on one of those.
I started using desiccant in my gear bag. What I do is purchase a box of camper van or trailer moisture absorber and then grab a little amount of it put it in a little sox and then put the sox in the camera bag. similar technic to what company do in packaging most good. And then yes avoid everything like you mentioned. I also have tried a few more things under the rain. An umbrella fixed to the back pack is kind of complicated. But I also carry a military poncho and put it on top of everything including myself when the rain hits. I can actually manage to even take the picture from the hood on top of the camera never having it in the rain. I can set everything, including the tripod from under the poncho. Since I am using a fanny bag, a but bag and a messenger bag all together, I don't even need to put things down to set things up. I found great advantages with the umbrella: the capacity to walk with breathing clothing under the rain. It is actually awesome. Later, I found that the poncho if worn sporadically if the rain comes and go, do almost as good. I have considered the use of a rain skirt along with the umbrella, following few hikers impressions. It is probably the most comfortable approach under heavy rain.
Since I also do photography while kayaking, I have started carrying my gear in a plastic water tight suit case (Pellican). With the use of ratchet straps, I can tie the all thing to my kayak or bicycle with ease. But I also started doing it in replacement of my butt bag. It works very well and could not be safer. It frees me from a poncho or umbrella clumsiness, but it forces me to put the harness down and expose the camera to weather during photography procedures. A simple sling made of a rope tied in loop can prevent the harness to be put on the ground and be suspended to a three. Still the case should rest on the ground to prevent things from falling when the case is opened. The advantage of this method is that I can wear regular rain gear. It is much more comfortable then the poncho, and more convenient and wind proof then the umbrella, but you tend to sweat more. It is also much easier to go through branches and to cross people, it also less of a complication to set things up.
I find that pictures are less interesting in heavy rain. Reason being that water droplets, reflects the grey sky has they fall and the heavier the rain and the farther the subject, the greyer and dull the photo. So, most likely, pictures would not append in dangerous conditions. In case of necessity, an umbrella or the poncho could still save the day! I also put a desiccant pouch in this camera gear case. With this set-up I still use the messenger bag and fanny bag for less precious gear. If I can put regular rain gear, it remain complicated to protect theses two bags since I won't carry an umbrella or poncho in this circumstance. To take the harness off, I have to take the messenger bag of my neck first, but it still save me a bunch of misery.
I have tried another idea few years ago that might be of interest. I don't practice it anymore, but I thing it might be brought back at some point. I discovered that a plastic tarp can be folded neatly, stuffed with a light foam tent one person folding (accordion type) 1/2" mattress folded in two or three, too which a rope could be affixed, to two corner of the tarp, to make it in a rigid waterproof cape or shield. It can this way be flipped to the side the rain comes from, as you walk. This set up is highly breathable still. Main idea is to provide a mattress to kneel or lay down to do macro or wildlife shots without soiling anything. It can also be used to drop gear on the ground and protect it from dirt or wetness. If the tarp is camo, then it can also, to a degree, shade your presence to wildlife. It can also be converted in a shelter ultimately. It is also very light and cheap and if the apparatus is folded with caution, it can also serve as a bag to carry some of the light gear in. But yes, people might think you are a weirdo fake superman as you cross their way! You might have lots of explanation to do! It is also not as interesting to bring when it is not raining.
Great tips 👍
Excellent tips! Particularly the dehumidifier. I want to mention a few additional things that I find should be taken into consideration. First tip - the shutter mechanism is more fragile than the sensor. In fact, blowing dust into the sensor area is perhaps most damaging to the shutter mechanism which can potentially accelerate the instance of a shutter mechanism failure. Therefore in very dirty situations I believe one shouldl take care and try to avoid blowing dust into the shutter mechanism, and instead a sensor cleaning kit may be a better idea as it uses special tools and doesn't blow dust around in the shutter mech. Also another tip - If hiking with camera gear and you decide to run downhill, particularly if relying on the Peak Design capture clip to hold the camera, a camera may bounce up and down abruptly if hot held against your body by your hand. The abrupt bouncing may permanently damage the VR or OSS mechanisms in a lens (I had this happen). There is also concern with some camera bodies such as Sony Alpha cameras, where the IBIS mechanism does not lock down the sensor when the camera is off (unlike Nikon Z), thus bouncing the camera body may induce wear and tear on the floating sensor mechanism. Also, some cameras have an option to close the shutter to "protect the sensor" from dust, but ironically, it is the shutter mechanism that is more important to protect from dust, and is way more fragile than the sensor. Therefore the use of this feature is not recommended by many professionals. One last point: lens caps, filters, and hoods. If there is risk a lens cap or filter may come off the lens while hiking, it may actually end up scratching the front lens element. Therefore ensure these are secure from coming off or do not use them at all - i.e. consider using a lens hood on while in the bag as they are often more secure. Also lens hood absorbs impact better than a UV filter. I advise against buying UV filters to protect lenses, instead the lens hood is particularly more effective at helping protect a camera/lens from impacts or bumps.
All my camera bags have desicated silica gel bags in them, to attract any moisture.
Any time that I buy something that comes with a silica gel sachet in, I pop the sachet in a tupperware container with sealable lid. Keep them nice and dry and you'll always have plenty to hand when they're needed to keep moisture away from your gear in storage.
Great advice 👍
Are your camera bags airtight? If not, those silica gel packets will be soaking in moisture from all the air around your bag, and once saturated, they then start giving off moisture, making your bag more humid. There's a reason why manufacturers only ship them with items that are also in plastic bags, to seal them from outside air.
I got a pack of fifty 10 gram packets off amazon and put them everywhere. In my camera bags, storage boxes, neoprene lens pouches.
Good piece of mind.
@@Sean-Smith-Photos check them regularly, and dry them or replace them once they get fully saturated, because at that point they start adding moisture to your gear, rather than removing it.
GREAT tips here 👏🏻 I'll add, consider getting a Ruggard Dry Cabinet for storage. De-humidifier is great too (especially for your cottage) but a dry cabinet is SO nice to have. Also keeps dust off everything, runs completely silent. Set it to about 45%, as TOO dry is not good either.
I have the EDC-50L model, it was $130 (on sale, normally $199 here in the US) and it holds 7 lenses and two bodies, including a large telephoto zoom (larger Nikon gear).
8:20 - if your buttons/dials stop working or do the "auto-press" thing where they glitch out and keep pressing by themselves, I recommend trying an electrical contact cleaner spray + a drinking straw that you flatten on one side so you can jam it under the button/dial. Did wonders with my a6300 - dials kept changing modes and this cured it!
Great advice 👍
Hi ian. I would like to bring your attention to the camera bag. I have more than 1 bag .the reason for this is the bags are heavily padded and so are the inserts to separate the equipment. I always clean all of my equipment after a days photography .so i leave the camera bag open in a warm cupboard for a few days to air out .and then use the other camera bag. I believe this will save you and the viewers any problems with moisture and mould. Also, vacuum your bag out regularly
Great videos.
David
Vacuum camera bag, that sounds like a good idea!
Tripods: my camera was slightly tilted in the tripod and when I unclipped the plate, the camera slipped to the floor... I usually, and now make sure I have one hand on camera before releasing tripod plate. I also wrap my camera strap around my wrist before and while I use the tripod.
I like this one! I won’t ever undo the quick release until I have a grip on the camera with my other hand.
Wonderful work! we can hear the passion in your voice. thank for sharing all of those precious advices.
Great tips! Regarding moisture, what I do is keep dessicant pouches in everything. My gear cabinet, all my bags, in lens pouches. Basically, if my gear is somewhere even semi-enclosed, I make sure there is a pouch or 2 with it. These pouches are inexpensive, and they have colour indicators on them to let you know when to change them. You can even dry them out and reuse them. A simple approach to help keep your gear dry.
I definitely think you make a very good point about camera bags. People will spend $3000 on a camera but they're not prepared to spend $300 on a good camera bag. There are some great new ones around that are also designed better for your back as well, and you don't want to be hurting your back. I often see people saying oh I need to get lighter gear weight has nothing and I say nothing to do with hurting your back. It's actually how the backpack fits and sits on your hips. You can carry actually cause some quite heavy gear. If it sits in the right spot on your body I've done a lot of adventuring hiking and I'm talking about 1000 km 2000 km hikes and how your backpack fits is critical and thankfully a lot of the newer photography bags that I'm seeing actually designed now by hiking companies. Do not skimp and get cheap bags is my honest advice especially as they often have poor dividers inside the bag. I even have separate little covers that go over each individual camera. They're just really cheap actually they're kind of just go around each lens and camera body and they do protect them as well from dust and certain things like that. The other thing I do is actually use a vacuum cleaner on my bag once a week I take the bag out take all the dividers out and give it a really good clean. That micro cloth you can get in bags as well and that's the ones I'm talking about that go over the actual camera lenses and you can even buy camera lens holders as well ... Thanks for your video. Always like your dedication and your meticulous approach. I'm very meticulous with my gear as I have GFX gear. That's worth a lot of money. I've just reached purchased also a Ulanzi sorry to promote a product but they actually do an electric blower now that has three settings on it so you don't need to use the rocket blower. If you don't like squeezing the damn thing the electric blower I've got is USB and it's fantastic and it has three settings so you don't damage your camera gear but it's great for getting hard to move dust that sometimes doesn't move with the.
Thanks buddy 👍
Good vid and good comments - i'll try to add one.... Be attentive to the environmental conditions when changing lenses - pointing orifices downwards is only a good habit when there's nothing that's coming upwards - ie driven sand... swirling dust... rising ground moisture... a swarm of gnats, etc. And always be mindful of wind-direction too. Cheers.
Great tip 👍
Very good reminders Ian. Thanks. Better safe than ... As a one-handed southpaw I often use a tripod or a monopod. I've taken to using a quick release camera strap when using my monopod and carry my camera by the strap over one shoulder, sling fashion, with the monopod collapsed, but only while on easy walking surfaces. Over large rocks or uneven ground everything goes back in the bag. I invested a lot of thought and time into figuring out how to setup my gear, even to be able to safely pick it up one-handed, let alone the cost. So, safety first. Cheers Ian from across the pond.
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed the video 👍
Using the lens hood and in rough conditions, a UV filter would be sound advice as well.
Great tips! I have some reusable silica gel packs you can microwave to dry out. In the bag and also in the box I use to store lenses when not using them for a bit. they go green when damp so also helps me be mindful about situations where my pack gets damp - sleep in my with it and it can get quite a bit of condensation.
Thanks for sharing!!
All great advice!! One thing I do is add those silica packs to my camera bag to help combat any moisture. I keep a few floating around in the main bag and then one in the pocket where I keep my extra cards/gear.
I had exactly the same 'moisture and mould' issue with some Canon lenses that I was trading in. Unfortunately, my lenses, not being high end, were classed as 'uneconomical to repair'. I was disappointed with this as these lenses were kept in a proper camera bag and in a dry, well ventilated room. I have changed from Canon to Fuji and I must admit that my Canon lenses had not been used for a while. I have since read that the best way to avoid mould growing in your lenses is to use them outside, as UV light prevents mould spores from growing on surfaces. My Fuji camera is in constant use and I have now only got two lenses for my X-T5, so that they are used constantly too. A good argument for not having loads of gear and also for getting out taking photos!
very true 👍
One thing I use is silicon packs as desiccant. Every time you purchase a piece of camera equipment or electronics the packing usually contains silicon packs as a desiccant. I usually save the desiccant packs and toss them in my camera bag. Change them every so often. If you don't purchase a lot of things with desiccant packs, you can buy them relatively cheaply on-line. I also purchase the camera raincoats for use in case it gets a bit wet. Keep your kit dry! Also, when I'm walking, I always keep my camera stuck lens down in a soft bag with the camera strap around my neck for safety. I never let my camera hang loose around my neck when walking - especially when moving through bush. I always keep the camera on the front of my body when moving where it's easier to protect in case of mishap. Had a few injuries but saved the camera!
When you're shooting wildlife, you always need your camera ready.
Such good advice I don't think enough UA-cam videos having made about this subject! I always feel weary when changing lenses at the job site. Bugs and their wings get squished accidentally on your fingers and can get into your camera sensor and lens.
Glad it was helpful!
Great tips Ian. I always use the hood to protect the front element and as I had a similar report a few years ago when trading a lens I now have a dry cabinet with the humidity set to 40%. No problems so far. Well worth the £120 investment and it fits all my lenses!
Great advice, I need to check that out 👍
your shots are all lovely 👌i really like the compositions. Thank you for sharing everything
If I am shooting in a precarious positions whether on a tripod or not, I use a wrist strap, although it can be quite challenging with the camera tethered to your wrist, at least if the camera or tripod should slip it would not go far and hopefully save the camera from damage..
Lovely tree images and useful tips, Ian. Lots of helpful comments, too! Enjoy your summer in beautiful Wales.
Watch fallen leaves covering exposed tree roots. Cover your gear with a parka when bringing it in from cold . Leave for 4 to 8 hours. Use two cameras with a favorite lens on each so as to avoid changing lenses in the elements. Give a freshly mounted camera on a tripod a shake before moving hands away. Arca Swiss connectors are worth the money. Please do not ask how I learned all this.
I will be getting a new camera this weekend. Thank you for all the tips. As a beginner, this has given me a lot to think about.
Thank you! 👍 My only observation on camera bags is that no matter how expensive they may seem, when you consider the eyewaterinw cost of cameras and lenses, the expense is insignificant.
Do you hate watching UA-cam videos when pros hold their strapless camera in one hand whilst negotiating tricky terrain, walking in a busy street or holding it over a cliff to get a shot? I always use a wrist strap or if I might need two hands for balance then a neck strap.
great tip 👍
Shooting in very dusty/sandy conditions (in my example mountain biking in hot dry dusty summer) its best to use UV filter on front lens element - you will be blowing and wiping these constantly and inevitably you will wear away front element coatings or scratch lens etc - so this is the one time a front UV makes good sense. If you scratch it or wear it out - its cheap to replace vs front element.
If I am out in very cold / damp / winter conditions when I return home I leave the gear in the bag until it warms up a for an hour or so - that way a cold camera lens etc wont attract a lot of condensation - also I remove SD cards to copy photos and do not power up camera or plug it into mains etc until I know its thoroughly dry. Open up all of the bag compartments and remove gear to allow full drying. Fully zoom lenses and remove end and front caps so no moisture is trapped inside these areas.
Great tips 👍
Enjoyed the video as usual Ian.
Really good tips, so thanks for sharing.
My tip would be, try and use a lens hood to save your lens from damage, although sometimes i don't through laziness and really should remember.
I was reading the tips and the one from Greg C i thought was really good , was use a UV filter which i have got and will be using it in the future.
Catch you on the next one.
Great content and video as usual, thank you! Several years ago I moved to a more humid climate and stored my 70-200 in a camera bag for a year while I was traveling and it developed mold on the lens. Now, I store my camera gear in a dry cabinet. Lesson learned. I often travel on a sailboat for extended periods and hope that silica packs will be enough to keep moisture under control.
Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for another great and informative video. We also stay in an old cottage with solid stone walls but ours is in SW Scotland. We also use a dehumidifier every couple of days and I also put several silica bags is each compartment of my camera bag. In every jacket and pair of walking I use I have several disposable shower caps to offer additional protection to camera and lenses while in use and waiting to take a shot. They are also handy for short walks when I carry my camera on a Peak Design strap and do not carry my camera bag.
Great advice 👍
I would say be careful with high shots per second. Don't use it continuously. It can break the sensor. Happened twice to me and a few others. Camera shop said the sensor gets too hot then lines of dead pixels appear.
I use the Silica packets and store my lenses in their cases each with one of those packets.
I use a camera strap that has not only the clip but a secondary safety tie/strap. I clip to the lens mount when doing that to keep the weight of the lens off the camera/lens mounting ring.
I use a sling bag with a side access to keep the weight down and for easy access to the camera and one additional lens as well as cleaning items.
Great advice 👍
My best investment in photography equipment is the Rocket Blower. I blow the dust off the camera / lens mount area BEFORE removing the lens while making a change. Much like a reputable auto mechanic who blows dirt out of the spark plug cavities before removal to keep dirt from entering and damaging the cylinder interior.
That's what I do. A rocket blower is so inexpensive and it's one of the best little tools ever.
Good tips thanks Ian. I keep a number of silica gel sachets in my camera bag which luckily isn’t against an external wall. I also have a number of vintage lenses kept on a shelf, but each one is in a hard case with a silica gel sachet. Hopefully that is working ok 🤞P.S. that path looked a bit precarious!
I carry a dry bag around so if i need to do a lens change in windy, dusty or damp conditions, I do it inside the bag. I also use "rechargeable" silica gel sachets in my bag.
Great advice 👍
I use a large silica gel bag for the humid control and a digital monitor in a cupboard. You can dry the bag out on a radiator, it has blue patch that turns red and reuse.
Great advice 👍
You mentioned you had a drop incident with a strap. What I usually do when carrying my camera with the strap when it’s not around my neck is I will wrap it once or twice around my wrist near the right end of the strap near the grip. That way if it ever slips out of my hand or the strap catches on to something it won’t fall and drop.
I recommend using a hand strap. It keeps the camera safe(if it's a good one) and no strap to get in the way.
I never swap lens, as when I'm taking my camera out, I'm mostly on a mountain bike ride.
But to protect the camera from impact on mountain bike rides or just in general from impacts, I keep it in my backpack between two thick elbow pads, in a small bag that came with bed sheets, I keep a microfiber towel there too to wipe the lens. There is a back protector plate that wraps around it, and keep the back pack tight. So me crashing on a ride or slipping and falling when walking won't make a dent in the camera or lens.
But a thing that can harm a lens is when you get big force or impact forcing the lens off the mount. But I try to keep it snug and padded up So I'm probably good. but dropping a massive lens on the ground with the camera, the lens can rip off the mount, I saw pictures of that.
Best lens pouch I have is actually... a Tommy Tippee bag designed for babies' bottles! Insulated and really well padded they cost around £10 for two.
Thanks for sharing!
Years ago I had mould issues with some gear. Then I realised that the built-in wardrobe where I keep it shared a wall with the onsuite shower on the other side. 🐯
my office backs onto the bathroom as well, another reason for the dehumidifier 👍
Another option for equipment storage especially if you live ina damp environment is a dedicated storage cabinet with a built in dehumidifier. I have a Forspark brand and it keeps my equipment stored at a dry 40% relative humidity.
I custom made some over the shoulder/ across chest straps for myself, mostly with components from amazon. Re-did or modified a guitar strap which turned out really comfy when using my larger telephoto lens so it hangs at the hip kind of and you barely feel the weight. But for regular small lenses and walking around, I prefer just to hold it without straps as well, then when done just put it back in my backpack.
Such great and informative video! Thank you
*The answer is at **12:30** if you don't feel like wasting 15 minutes.*
Take care of your gear, it's common sense.
Internal lens fungus is a huge problem in warm, humid environments -- like the tropics. I've lost a bunch of nice lenses that way. I now keep my gear in drybags with very large desiccant containers -- the size of a medium/small lens. I buy the desiccant in bulk, and get the type that has a color change indicator to show when it is saturated. The wet silica can be microwaved to drive off the moisture, and then re-used. The stuff I use is dark blue when it's dry and pink when it's wet.
9:17 Always close your bag, these extra five seconds will prevent your equipment from falling out if you forget that the bag is open. I learned it the hard way by damaging two lenses.
Where is this being filmed please ? looks just lovely
Ian I am looking forward to your assessment/ experiences with the Tamron 18-300, when do you think you’ll do it. In any case love your posts!
Great video as always Ian. The one thing that I always do that I'm not sure whether it's a good practice or not is I leave always leave my lens attached to my camera, even once I get home I'll take my battery out and recharge them, I'll take my cards out and store them but I never separate my lens and put the cap on and a cap on the body. Is this a good thing or a bad thing? Cheers Ian.
I’m with you , I even take that to the next level of having two bodies one with a 24-105 on one and a 100-500. I really try to minimise lens changing . 😀 Dust is bad enough on stills but can be easily removed in post but on video I don’t know how to get rid of it with my video editor. 😀
Great advice 👍
Excellent video Ian, with regards to storing your camera, if you are storing your camera withs worth keeping it in a sealed tuppaware box with some big bags of silica gel.
Great advice 👍
I have a similar problem with damp as my home has solid stone walls also. I use an airtight Vanguard Waterproof Case and keep it between 40-50% humidity using silica gel bags and a ThermoPro TP50 hygrometer bought of Amazon.
Great advice 👍
Good video. I'd highly recommend you get a Peak Design Capture Clip so you have your camera closer to you and can take some more shots as opposed to always having to put the bag down and get it out again.
Great tips Ian I will take all of them onboard very good video 😊
Nice vid, a good list you put together, glad I already do most of these things, I thought I was overdoing it so its good see its reasonble treatment of gear.
Hi Ian. One thing that killed a lens I had was fungus in the body of the lens. A real lens destroyer! Like you, it was a lens i hadn’t used for a long time (a Sigma 150-600 kept in a cupboard in its case) and sent for trade-in. Completely unaware. Virtually unrepairable due to the cost of repair versus value of the lens. I now store my gear out of any case and surrounded by ‘drying’ sachets that I change regularly.
I use a normal rocket blower for the front of my lenses, but also carry a blower with an air filter for blowing dust from inside my camera.
Great advice 👍
Great video Ian! I hadn't thought about moisture getting to the camera gear or cleaning the sensor. Thank you for the advice
Great tips Ian! What a beautiful place to get fantastic photos!
For anyone waiting for the big reveal: His lens got moist.
With consideration of camera falling, I have a rope with the two ends in a sufficiently large loop to pass the camera through. Since I carry it in a messenger bag, I make sure this rope is short enough to retain the camera from hitting the ground if I drop it. But I also measure this when the bag is brought to the front while standing. This allow me to have enough length to work the camera without untying it. But it also allow me to use the bag as a cushion to improve my hand held stability. One end of the rope goes through the eyelet of the left side on the camera and then around the camera. It then synch around the eyelet. Same eyelet where the strap would go. Only I don't use a strap. I use my camera bag strap! The other end of the rope also goes around an hanker point on the bag and the camera through its loop. It is from this height that I adjust the length of the rope. I adjust it as short as possible for it to be comfortable to work the camera on the tripod and avoid untying it. Instead of making sure to always have a grip on the camera, I make sure to never sit or crouch when my camera is off the bag. But if I do lower work, obviously I will have to be more careful. A side advantage of this method is that I can lower the camera in suspension form the rope while I work things in the bag using it as a work bench! When I am done with the lenses cap, filters, choice of lenses swap or else, I can pull the camera back at the ready!
I am using paracord 220 for this and mine makes about 80cm tied to the bag and the camera. I have been interested in the Peek design strap clips for a while. But this cheap alternative is in my opinion much better. I might loose 3 seconds in taking the rope on and off over these clips when high wind flaps the rope and increase vibration of the tripod. Yet you gain a bunch of affordability, availability, durability and strength. And when the rope is off, you don't have these plastic clips still flapping around. Plus instead of tying to a regular camera strap it ties to the camera bag. This makes one less strap to be tangled in! This last advantage have another consequence. Since the camera follow the waterproof bag during the photography, when completed it returns in right away by necessity. I don't just keep it out. So the ease of access makes it more convenient to maximize the protection of the camera.
Great advice 👍
I keep my cameras in holster type bags and carry them in a backpack. I try and avoid changing lenses on location due to the risk of dust etc. When you have been taking photos long enough you get to know which lens will be the best to put on for what you want to photograph for any particular photo shoot. I do prefer to use straps and always leave the strap on around my neck when attaching and removing the camera from a tripod. This prevents as you point out a risk of a fall before the camera mounting plate clicks into the tripod head. This is particularly important at night when the alignment points on the tripod head are hard to see.
Something that costs no money: stop down your lens's aperture rings to their smallest opening before transport. Keeps things mechanically tight and can help reduce any debris from entering the element.
Something that costs money: per your last point, you can get a Ruggard dry cabinet on sale from B&H pretty regularly. It looks super sleek and the 80L can hold a handful of bodies, lenses, and other moisture-sensitive items. I just picked one up because I live in Florida where it gets super humid, plus I was tired of dust and pet hairs coating my stuff every week and I can rest easy knowing I won't have to dust off my gear or worry about mold.
good stuff 👍
Thanks for the tips. I always put my camera in a cotton bag when im not using it. Always feel it protects it from dust.
Great advice 👍
Excellent video with some fantastic tips! Moreover, some of these images are absolutely stunning, especially at 1:50. Wow! Keep up the great work, my friend!
good advise on most parts with looking after your camera kit. no lens wipes only q tips, as for camera straps I tried them all and eventually found the perfect strap system. nothing has ever come close no not black rapid its the carry speed, expensive but a fantastic investment I carry heavy kit 7dmk2,
2 x 1dmk3 plus 400, f2.8 500 f4 etc used the black rapid system, very poor quality for the large sum of money. 10 years using carry speed system, never failed me in any way and still working perfect.
If you use an Arca-Swiss quick release plate on a different head to the one it came with then double check the head actually grips it. I discovered to my horror that a Gitso QR plate is very slightly different to others and when I attached it with the camera to the tripod head it slid right off, despite having tightened the mount. I have also now put on the security nut in the head plates as an extra precaution.
I think the quality of quick release plates varies, not all are exactly the same profile. 👍
The way i change lenses I have come up with, i think is the most efficient.
Let's say camera body caps and lens caps are all on, I first unscrew my lens back cap without taking it off, leave the lens on the floor facing down and have a quick glimpse on where the markings are. Now, I can quickly take off my body caps with the camera facing down and throw the cap (in windy days I cover the camera body with my body, too, at this time), take off the lens back cap and fit it in the camera body in under 1 second. After I screw and click it on, then I can take off the lens front cap and pick up the body cap from where i tossed it. :P
That's the bare minimum amount of time for my mirror and sensor to be exposed.
Although I use my equipment frequently and I do not have to store it for prolonged periods, I keep it all inside my camera bag WITH small anti-moisture bags (like the ones inside of new shoes' boxes). Haven't had any problem ever.
Much Appreciated Ian👌
If you have tall telephoto lenses and set it on the ground when you're changing out your lens, be careful not to knock it over, it's especially risky in high winds as it's easier to fall over due to the wind. I damaged a lens hood that way as my lens was sitting wide end down as I was changing lenses and about to put that lens back in m my camera bag. The lens fell over and rolled before I could get it back in the bag due to the wind.
Great advice 👍
One to watch, when framing up as you move about a bit, take you eye off the viewfinder and check you not about to go A over T - trip up etc.
Absolutely, I still get clammy hands recalling when I stood with my back a couple of yards from to a cliff taking a sunset and became so absorbed I completely forgot about the drop behind me. Luckily I only moved sideways not backwards!
Absolutely, I still get clammy hands recalling when I stood with my back a couple of yards from a cliff taking a sunset and became so absorbed I completely forgot about the drop behind me. Luckily I only moved sideways not backwards!
I tend not to look through the view finder when I'm on a cliff edge for that very reason 👍
Great reminders and tips Ian. Thanks
thanks 👍
When I used to try cleaning sensor swabs like visible dust it's always streaked and been a pig to clean it up properly
You used to be able to buy blower brushes to clean camera gear, I don't know if they're still available, but they're a waste of money because they often shed fibres where they're not wanted. Instead visit an art store and buy good quality Watercolour brushes. Get a few of different sizes. They are great for removing dust and the fine ones will get into those normally inaccessible corners and crevices.
Great tip 👍
TIP: Everyone probably knows about the basic wiping camera gear down which was mentioned in the video, but think about if you trip or slip on a muddy hillside or a tripod happens to fall over. If you get mud covering part of your camera and lens do what I came up with. Grab a standard soft toothbrush and cut it in half or more to make it smaller for storage. Then you'll have a great tool to clean mud from under the small levers on your equipment. Please note that mud smears so let it dry and harden a little bit.
Go to your local optician and get a lens cleaning kit from there. This consists of a spray bottle of lens cleaning fluid and a microfibre cloth. Never wipe dust off the lens with a dry cloth.
I also carry a small makeup brush in my bag which I use to clean the inevitable dust off the outside of the camera and lenses.
Great tips! What about a lens hood or UV filter to protect the front glass?
I find lens hoods a pain to carry, a uv filter can be useful but I prefer not to add extra glass to the lens
@@ian_worth Why do you find the lens hood a pain to carry? All my lenses are equipped with hoods for wildlife photography as they only weigh a few grams and are inexensive way to protect an expensive lens without adding extra glass.
I use dry and dry (desiccant packets) inside a steel cabinet that holds my camera gear (lenses, bodies, etc) so every few weeks you just pop the dry and dry in the microwave on defrost to refresh the dry and dry so it can continue to absorb moisture and keep the humidity in the cabinet down. You can also get humidity sensors to monitor the cabinet, even reptile or pet stores have them! :) hope that helps someone!
I use a padded lunch bag to hold my camera. But I also don't go on long hikes with my camera, just shoot at local places. Ooh, I need one of those rocket blowers. Helps when framing to clear out dust and stuff, too.
Thanks 🙏
When coming in from the cold (very cold, much below freezing) I would seal the camera and lens in a zip lock bag in the cold dry air before coming indoors. Taking it out after it warmed up.
Buy desiccant packages (the little packets that say do not eat that come in clothes and different products to keep them dry) and keep them in your camera cube and wherever you keep your gear, changing them out every once in a while for new ones. Then when you’ve exposed any of your gear to moisture or our storing it for long periods of time, you will know that it is staying dry. 👍
I have a small camera bag that I put on my shoulder and then on my hip. I usually have my camera ready to hand in there with the lens already attached. Now my question is whether it is harmful to leave the body and the lens together when walking. Or should I really only put everything together when I think there might be a nice motif?
Not sure about this one but I think it makes sense to store lenses standing up instead of flat to avoid deformation over a long period of time.
I wont have to worry about moisture here atleast. Its super dry. I actually get dry skin which isnt healthy but atleast the lenses will be safe.
I collect desiccant from other products like shoes and put inside the bag. It's useful for all things that don't get along with humidity.
Great advice 👍 so warm I might have to take off my hat 😂😂😂
🤠
During high humidity times of year I keep my gear in hard cases that are sealed (Pelican type) loaded with silicon dry pouches. Lenses should go nose down. I take them out and place in bag or backpack only when I use them.
Thanks for sharing!
Man rain every day !😮
I have always lived in sunny California central coast and northern central California.
At the most storms rolling through in the winter and spring
👍
A thing that happened to me during a vacation: I slept in the upper part of a bunk bed and had my stuff on the lower bed. Once when I climbed down, I stepped on the edge of the lower matress and bent it down, what caused a lens to roll off the matress and fall onto the floor.
Another great video, Ian. Thanks!
2:36 I designed and 3D-printed a cup for lenses.
It is closed on both sides with a integrated bayonet for the lens. This means that up to two lenses can be safely transported in one box without touching each other.
And it's very usefull for storage with some "Container Dry"
That sounds useful. Is the model publicly available?
sounds interesting 👍
@@ian_worth you can print it and try it out, your thoughts will be interesting to hear
@@rgefryer search for „lens_container by remak“ I’m not allowed to send the link
@@rgefryer lens_container_xf by remak
Useful tips, thank you. Great images too.