My baseboards are 115 yrs old, 7x1 red oak loaded up with lots of paint. I took em off carefully and turned them around to the unpainted side and cut them down to 5in width, good for another 115 yrs.
I'm doing the same to my house for even a bit cheaper using 4" furring strips for base trim and 2" furring stips for door trim. I'm not trying to impress anyone with my home or carpentry skills and I love the rustic look.
@@kellyrzy6056 he didn't put that much thought into it and he literally said in the video that the reason he didn't do mitered corners was because it was a simple DIY, one that anyone could do. So your little comment about it being a design thing is wrong. He did it because it was easiest.
VERY GLAD HE DIDN'T MITER THE CORNERS. 2 REASONS: 1) MITERED OUTSIDE CORNERS ARE WEAKER - AND MORE EASILY DAMAGED AND 2) MITERED CORNERS DON'T GO WITH THE ESTHETIC.
I was ripping out old outdated quarter round and I was concerned about destroying the current baseboards. I suddenly decided to go with regular wood. My wife wanted a farm theme in the half bath anyway. Best decision yet. Looks fantastic. Nice job sir.
@@nolimitsinvesting Why not cut them, then paint them before finally installing them? That way you don't have to worry about taping and covering the floor? We redid my son's room and had chair-rail molding in addition to the baseboard molding. We measured and cut them to the exact measurements we needed, double checking after we cut them to make sure they were perfect. Then we painted everything outside (it was summertime) before finally installing them. They turned out amazing and we got to skip a lot of prep work when painting!
@@kaleylynn6565 that is how I would have done it too if I did all the work. This was a flip so I saved on the labor portion of this project but hired out the entire painting of the interior. So they knocked out all of the priming and painting when I finished.
Great video, thanks for sharing! I am looking to use 1X4's for baseboards in a cabin that I am constructing. One very simple question... especially when using 12ft boards, how do you deal with warped and twisted lumber? Do you go through and pick each piece looking for the ones that are straight? This is what I have done, but I am wondering if there is anything that I am missing out on. :)
Yes, I pick them out one by one. Sometimes they have a bow in them but because you're securing them to the studs, they will flatten out when nailed in. Congrats on the cabin! That's a dream of mine when I get more land.
So i chose to paint my walls a dark green called ESSEX GREEN. then i got pine doors. My idea is i want to do this floor molding like you but i want to sand it a bit with the doors , burn them and then stain them
I would definitely sand and seal before installing. I only installed first because my painters took care of the trim and doors all at once after I installed them. 😁
Just to let you know you have to allow for the thickness of the sheet rock or wall cover when you select the length of nails. 3/4" of trim 1/2" for drywall and at least 1/2" to go into stud.
How would you put 2 pieces side by side if the wall is too long for just one board? I have a 20ft -ish wall and I have 1x4x8 boards. Do I just butt them up to each other or cut them in a way they interlock?
I was going to install regular mdf. So glad I found this video. Did you stain it after? Or just leave it? My wood floors are not as dark so not sure what I would do there. But love this look!
Would you caulk the top seem between wood and sheet? I had unfinished knotty Alder trim and base added throughout my cabin and got into it with contractor prior to finishing touches. He left with a myriad of things left undone but was curious about this. There are slight gaps where wall wasn't perfectly square and a small gap is there. Is this something you'd normally caulk?
He definitely should have caulked them. I painted mine as you can see in later videos so I went with white caulk but they have so many products out there now that I'm sure there's a wood filler color or stainables and all of that. Thanks for watching!
Love it. I’m doing that right now. If you were to paint the boards white. Would it be better to install first then paint? Or paint first? I fear I’d get the boards dirty from cutting and installing. What’s your opinion..
For most, it would make more sense to paint before installation. But for me, I had painters coming that week so they took care of the walls and the baseboards both after I installed them.
Definitely! I just ran with the boards as is but you can build your own trim the way you want it. MDF boards are another option too. Be careful on that table saw! Rip boards, not fingers! Haha
I have laminate floor, ripped off the original baseboard and there is quite a gap between wall and flooring. Some spots are just over 1”. I want the farmhouse look. Any suggestions.
I'm thinking about doing this with 2x12" boards (they're cheaper than 1x12" at my lumber store? no idea why) Would that be too thick? How does pine take the paint with the knots?
I'm doing this on the exterior walls with 2x10 planks. They are cheaper because the factory does less work cutting the tree into larger planks and they are a rougher finish. You pay more for boards that are cut straight and sanded smooth. I believe that the large 2x10s increase the strength of the house in storm situations if large screws are run into each stud and into the footer boards.
@@billgateskilledmyuncle23 love your username btw. hopefully you're uncle didn't literally die though... and interesting. I never seen them for indoor baseboards
Ok, your baseboard is most likely 3/4". Adding the 1/2" sheetrock... you are using 1 9/16" finish nails???? So at most your nails are only penetrating a stud at most 5/16" of an inch. Better to go with at least 2" nails.
Thank you for being a real person! Knowing some of us are on a tight budget with little carpentry skills. This is great!
I really appreciate that you could see my heart and intention behind this video. Means the world! Thank you for watching!
Amen to that! 😊
My baseboards are 115 yrs old, 7x1 red oak loaded up with lots of paint. I took em off carefully and turned them around to the unpainted side and cut them down to 5in width, good for another 115 yrs.
That's awesome!!
😂😂😂😂😂I love it just like a Honda civic
Tryna remodel a house on a budget had to gut the entire house and you just saved me so much money and time. Thank you. 🙏
Awesome!! Best of luck on your remodel!
Thanks for helping with my decision also to use farmhouse style. Nervous mitering & Farmhouse easier. You helped a novice diyer complete a project
Awesome!! Good luck on your project. 🤙🏼
Love the simplicity of this approach!
Glad you like it!
I'm doing the same to my house for even a bit cheaper using 4" furring strips for base trim and 2" furring stips for door trim. I'm not trying to impress anyone with my home or carpentry skills and I love the rustic look.
Awesome idea! 🤙🏼
Omg so much better than buying moulding, or trying to make fancy crap. So cute too. Thanks
I really appreciate that! Simplicity is best. Hope you get to try it!
Love it man .I’m not a carpenter but I did it this weekend and it looks fantastic. . Your vid was so helpful thank you 🙏.
Awesome! Thank you for taking the time to let me know that it was helpful. 🙏🏼
I am in love with this cute little house. Good job Jesse
Thank you!
i cant believe he didn't miter the outer corners 🧐. Good channel , thanks
Farmhouse style has no mitered corners. Most cabins are that style too. It's not just a shortcut. It is a literal design element.
@@kellyrzy6056 good point !
@@kellyrzy6056 he didn't put that much thought into it and he literally said in the video that the reason he didn't do mitered corners was because it was a simple DIY, one that anyone could do. So your little comment about it being a design thing is wrong. He did it because it was easiest.
Actually it is a design
VERY GLAD HE DIDN'T MITER THE CORNERS. 2 REASONS: 1) MITERED OUTSIDE CORNERS ARE WEAKER - AND MORE EASILY DAMAGED AND 2) MITERED CORNERS DON'T GO WITH THE ESTHETIC.
THANK YOU!! This exactly the vid I have been looking for.🤗 🍻
Whoohoo!! 🤙🏼
I was ripping out old outdated quarter round and I was concerned about destroying the current baseboards. I suddenly decided to go with regular wood. My wife wanted a farm theme in the half bath anyway. Best decision yet. Looks fantastic. Nice job sir.
Awesome! That definitely worked out. I don't see this style going out any time soon! Great decision 🤙🏼
I love the rusticity of the knotty pine and the no-miter corners, but don't these boards need some some finish, i.e. polyurethane, to protect them?
Yes! They are now primed and painted white to match the rest of the trim in the house. 🤙🏼
So then what was the point?
@@vapertainment5313 this is cheaper then buying Trim in this same shape/style.
@@nolimitsinvesting Why not cut them, then paint them before finally installing them? That way you don't have to worry about taping and covering the floor? We redid my son's room and had chair-rail molding in addition to the baseboard molding. We measured and cut them to the exact measurements we needed, double checking after we cut them to make sure they were perfect. Then we painted everything outside (it was summertime) before finally installing them. They turned out amazing and we got to skip a lot of prep work when painting!
@@kaleylynn6565 that is how I would have done it too if I did all the work. This was a flip so I saved on the labor portion of this project but hired out the entire painting of the interior. So they knocked out all of the priming and painting when I finished.
yup look awesome I'm doing this in my house...what size wood around the door?
I used the same size! 1x4 😁
I love it! Looks great.
Thanks!
I love it thank u for sharing . I will do this on my room☺️
Awesome! Glad I could help
Nice man, I always 45 the outside corners but other than that, cut and but
🤙🏼
Been thinking about doing this but with 1x6's looking at maybe going with a light stain or just poly the board.
That would be really cool!
Love it. Did you add quarter round to it?
Good question! I always use quarter round now but I'm not sure that I even knew what that was when I did this trim. Haha
Would love to see the finished look painted white.
Check out my newest video of the flip house update. 🤙🏼
@@nolimitsinvesting I am going to check it out there is no limits to what I will watch 😋
Great video, thanks for sharing! I am looking to use 1X4's for baseboards in a cabin that I am constructing. One very simple question... especially when using 12ft boards, how do you deal with warped and twisted lumber? Do you go through and pick each piece looking for the ones that are straight? This is what I have done, but I am wondering if there is anything that I am missing out on. :)
Yes, I pick them out one by one. Sometimes they have a bow in them but because you're securing them to the studs, they will flatten out when nailed in. Congrats on the cabin! That's a dream of mine when I get more land.
Could we stain the boards with dark walnut wood stain and then finish with a clear gloss and leave like that?
Absolutely!
I love this!!
Thank you!
So i chose to paint my walls a dark green called ESSEX GREEN. then i got pine doors. My idea is i want to do this floor molding like you but i want to sand it a bit with the doors , burn them and then stain them
Would love to see it all. Hope you do a video on it!
nice and simple
Anyone can do it! Thanks for watching. 🤙🏼
Sorry if I missed it, but was that the same wood around the closets? Great video! *New subbie*
Yes it was all pine 1x4 😁 just different variations in the wood. It all got primed and painted white. Thanks for watching and subbing!
@@nolimitsinvesting I was about to ask the same question. So the trim around doors is the same. Great!
If you want to leave them unpainted would you recommend standing them before installing or after?
I would definitely sand and seal before installing. I only installed first because my painters took care of the trim and doors all at once after I installed them. 😁
Just to let you know you have to allow for the thickness of the sheet rock or wall cover when
you select the length of nails. 3/4" of trim 1/2" for drywall and at least 1/2" to go into stud.
Great point!
I think it looks nice, but I would've cut 45's for the corners.
Totally understand this. I cut 45s on more modern type projects. But I love the simplistic farmhouse style too. Thanks for connecting! 😁
How would you put 2 pieces side by side if the wall is too long for just one board? I have a 20ft -ish wall and I have 1x4x8 boards. Do I just butt them up to each other or cut them in a way they interlock?
I'm actually working in my shop now so I just made a video to show you! Hope it helps 😁
Thank you! I appreciate it!
I was going to install regular mdf. So glad I found this video. Did you stain it after? Or just leave it? My wood floors are not as dark so not sure what I would do there. But love this look!
I actually had them painted white! Check out the final reveal video of this property to see. 😁
@@nolimitsinvesting thank you so much for the reply. And I will check out the reveal video.
Would you caulk the top seem between wood and sheet? I had unfinished knotty Alder trim and base added throughout my cabin and got into it with contractor prior to finishing touches. He left with a myriad of things left undone but was curious about this. There are slight gaps where wall wasn't perfectly square and a small gap is there. Is this something you'd normally caulk?
He definitely should have caulked them. I painted mine as you can see in later videos so I went with white caulk but they have so many products out there now that I'm sure there's a wood filler color or stainables and all of that. Thanks for watching!
@@nolimitsinvesting For sure my man. Thank you for response and content. It's amazingly valuable for folks like myself
Love it. I’m doing that right now.
If you were to paint the boards white. Would it be better to install first then paint? Or paint first? I fear I’d get the boards dirty from cutting and installing. What’s your opinion..
For most, it would make more sense to paint before installation. But for me, I had painters coming that week so they took care of the walls and the baseboards both after I installed them.
Agrees with no limit I always paint them first then touch them up afterwards 😊
@@wildwoodtop what's up my friend!
What if you had concrete walls? Would you just use liquid nails?
That's what I would use in that case.
Do you match the door casing with the same size boards?
Yes! I did 1x4 for everything.
Can I rip cut those in half? Like from 1” to .5” width? On a table saw? My door trim is thinner than an inch.
Definitely! I just ran with the boards as is but you can build your own trim the way you want it. MDF boards are another option too. Be careful on that table saw! Rip boards, not fingers! Haha
New sub
Glad you're here!
Hi! Do you caulk the top and corners? Can I , should I?
Hey!! Yes, the painters did before they primered and painted them. Final product is in newer videos. 😁
What did you do at the top of the doors?
I used the same 1x4 for everything. Around the doors included.
Will these warp and bend over time? I was told to use finger jointed pine or the boards will eventually move.
I've used these for years and never seen that happen. I'm sure to nail them into studs though. Good luck! 😁
I have laminate floor, ripped off the original baseboard and there is quite a gap between wall and flooring. Some spots are just over 1”. I want the farmhouse look. Any suggestions.
You may have to use quarter round also to hide the gap. That's about your only option. I use it all the time. Still farmhousey! 😁
@@nolimitsinvesting I was trying not to use quarter round, but I may not have any option. Thank you.
@@galegaringer340try 1x2 instead of quarter round. At least it will still be a square look instead of rounded.
Personally like butting them up and seeing the end grain. Most DIYers who don't have much experience end up with miters that look terrible anyway.
Totally agree! 🤙🏼
Did you sand, stain or do anything to pine boards?
Yes, my guys primed and painted them white.
Can the bubble and brad nailer be rented?
I'm not sure but just about anything can be now. 🤙🏼
What size nails did you use?
I used 1.5inch. That gives an inch of bite into the studs after going through the 1/2inch boards.
I'm thinking about doing this with 2x12" boards (they're cheaper than 1x12" at my lumber store? no idea why)
Would that be too thick? How does pine take the paint with the knots?
I'm doing this on the exterior walls with 2x10 planks. They are cheaper because the factory does less work cutting the tree into larger planks and they are a rougher finish. You pay more for boards that are cut straight and sanded smooth. I believe that the large 2x10s increase the strength of the house in storm situations if large screws are run into each stud and into the footer boards.
@@billgateskilledmyuncle23 love your username btw. hopefully you're uncle didn't literally die though...
and interesting. I never seen them for indoor baseboards
@@billgateskilledmyuncle23 I need to do trim around doors and windows outside. What a great idea!
Not a Fan of leaving the Ends open. Usually 45 but no problem tucking it in inside Corners🤔👍
May I ask, was it pressure treated or the unfinished?
Just regular, untreated 1x4 pine boards. 😁
@@nolimitsinvesting Awesome, thanks for the information.
@@Belladale2011 no problem at all! Thanks for watching!
Pressure treated ok for this?
@@bizjanitorial1289no pressure treated is for exterior use only
Did you paint them or leave natural?
Primed and painted them! I showed them completed in the flip house update videos 😁
👍🏼👍🏼
What about the door frames?
I used the same 1x4 around those and the windows too!
@@nolimitsinvesting this is exactly how I want to do mine but painted white
What paint did you use for your walls?
Repose Grey
one thing is you can’t caulk that seam. Would look weird
Definitely not if you left them natural. But you can use wood putty and sand it. I had these painted white so they caulked them.
Woodglut instructions is nice for that.
Ok, your baseboard is most likely 3/4". Adding the 1/2" sheetrock... you are using 1 9/16" finish nails???? So at most your nails are only penetrating a stud at most 5/16" of an inch. Better to go with at least 2" nails.
2" nails bro
Pp