To learn more about electronics in a different and very effective way, and at the same time support this channel, go to Mr Carlson's Patreon page, click here: www.patreon.com/MrCarlsonsLab
Hello Paul. Really enjoy your videos. Thank you. What is your opinion on whether same spec valves from different manufacturers really make a difference to the sound of audio amplifiers? For instance I have seen vintage NOS Telefunken ECC83/12AX7 valves (similar to those in the Harmon Kardon Citation you serviced recently) selling for £150 or more vs other makes for £10 - £15. Is there really any justification for this large price range? I can appreciate that some valves are more microphonic than others but many claim there are tonal and other subtle differences. Perhaps you could make a short video either debunking or confirming the facts on this sensitive issue. Keep up the good work and excellent content.
Thank you for your input Sharkey. The video would be great. I'm not so sure if people can handle the truth when it comes to this question. I find many want to believe in magic. The video would be controversial, that's for sure.
Hi Paul. Yes I am sure it would be controversial, my belief is that one strong tube sounds the same as another but I don't have "magic" ears like some. Perhaps you could do a video specifically about matching valves, why and where it is important. ie phase splitters, stereo gain stages and outputs. I have valve hifi amps but rarely use matched valves in anything but the output stage. I am interested to know what matching tolerances are acceptable especially in phase splitter circuit. Perhaps a demo illustrating the circuit with mismatched tubes vs matched and the problems if any that arise from mismatched tubes. Which characteristics are matched by vendors, ie. In the past I have bought GrooveTubes EL34s in matched quads. GrooveTubes claim to match their tubes for gain AND distortion, How is this achieved, is it just marketing.
I find myself more and more these days, in a state of awe and wonderment. The fact that resources like this exist, of a quality and depth that would have been unthinkable just a few years ago, for nearly anyone and everyone’s benefit...seriously, what a friggin’ time to be alive!I’ve got to remember not to take it all for granted more often. I’m light years from being considered a professionally competent engineer. My career certainly has a heavy technical aspect to it, but I also have just an insatiable curiosity when it comes to understanding the world around me. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Thank you for making these videos. Their value, to me, is inestimable.
I know right? I don't have a ton of cash so I try to spend what little patreon money I have on people I feel really make a difference. As soon as I saw the first couple of videos I jumped on his patreon. Paul is amazing, super easy to follow, incredibly thorough and the test equipment that you build in his course are almost beyond belief in their abilities, especially the SIFT capacitor tester / Prognosticator and the Super Probe. I'm like you and far from being anything more than a Simple hobbyist. These videos and the test gear that you build have me much closer to the "Somewhat Advanced but not a pro" Level...
The resource that is amazing and beyond belief is Mr. Carlson himself. Everything you see around you was once a thought in someones or somethings mind, even the stuff not man made.
You are so correct sir. I got really serious about electronics troubleshooting around 1999 or so. I was about 17. I used a lot of Internet newsgroups back then. It wasn't great all the time, but now, it's just amazing what we can do and learn. The funny thing is when I wanted to start learning about repairing power supplies and things like stereos and tvs, everyone said I was wasting my time, that nothing is worth fixing anymore, etc. I didn't listen to anyone. I did what I wanted to do and i'm happy with that. I got such tremendous pleasure out of fixing an old 14" CRT monitor then, and I still do to this day. I don't regret my choice at all. This channel and Mr. Carlson help me get better at this, and i'm grateful to him for that.
Thank you Paul for sharing this Patron video, because of it, I was made aware of snubbers in a bridge rectifier, then doing some research, learned of their value. Cheers, Adriel
I have been working on electronic equipment for several years now and have even taught a rather condensed and relatively advanced electronics course recently. I must say that I've always loved my field as a total science nut, however finding Mr. Carlson's videos has changed everything for me. I didn't expect to find someone so in touch with this world of electronics. This is either formal training as an instructor or the greatest naturally talented instructor I've ever seen, and I've met many great professors and teachers. Mr. Carlson has turned my profession into more of a passion than ever before. Watching Mr. Carlson work is a very humbling experience for me as it shows how much there is to learn as well as how exciting electronics can be!
Was an owner/operator of an electronics repair shop, did warranty and non-warranty repairs for some major manufacturers of radio/tv for almost 40 years. I still learn from watching the workflow of others. Enjoy your videos... loved the Hammerlund restorations. Keep up the great work... Rich
BOY you are the tech EVERYONE WANTS....methodical...thorough....detailed.....you're TERRIFIC. VERY experienced. So great....THANKS Paul....(UNCLE DOUG....TWO OR THREE others.... such good tutorials.). Perfect for me. Your a GIFT really. Thanks again!
I cannot understand for the life of me, why anybody would give a thumbs down to this or Doug. His knowledge and clarity of explanation there of, combined with his mannerisms are no less than 1000% professional and thorough. His videos are gold!
I have given him a thumbs down for the fender reverb amp video. He recommended an illegal, unsafe modification to earth wiring that I could not approve of. Don't be mesmerised by his 'dulcit tones'. He is not a god. He is very good, but not omnipotent!
😢started learning electronics in the mid 70s from a tv repair man who was also an electrical engineer also tought me math that i could never grasp in school learned mor in 3months of working with him then i did the entire time in school you remind me much of him in my 60s now cant see for sheit but love whatching your videos makes me really miss my electronics
While I don't understand much of your commentary, I manage to learn something from every one of your videos. I still have many videos left to watch, and very much look forward to seeing them.
You, along with Uncle Doug, DLabs and The Guitologist, are by far some of the best channels on youtube for troubleshooting vintage gear. Props to all of you. Invaluable information.
Hi @@UncleDoug I just watched your current limiter protection video and I have one question. What does it matter the black wire or the white wire for the bulb? I thought AC was AC and both sides were in effect the same? electricity is fascinating and channels like yours and electroboom make things simple enough for an ignoramus like me to understand. Thanks for teaching mate. New subscriber
Mr Carlson, You sir are a intelligent man, I'm now old and always wanted to learn electronics, now just to old to start, just enough to learn somethings to help me, The best way for me to learn is to have you show me one on one, Thats how I have learned everything in my life, and reading. I do learn quick ,when someone shows me.. great videos
This was excellent! The way you pointed out the signal path in the chassis and how that corresponds to the schematic was what I've needed to know. I've watched others explain about the circuitry, but nothing comes close to this.
I worked as business equipment engineer for many years and I used to service automatic bank dictation equipment I.e. connected to telephone exchanges. The GPO engineer at the exchange told me the painters were in to brighten up the rooms around the equipment. There was racks of lead acid batteries all connected in parallel for power backup if the mains failed! they remarked “it’s safe enough as the total voltage is only 50 volts! They forgot to mention that the total current available was massive (several thousands of amps) There was a huge bang when somebody dropped an aluminium ladder among the terminals and part of the ladder simply melted! Lucky nobody was injured! H S wasn’t very strict in these days! Fraser
For such a seemingly young fellow, you seem to have knowledge way beyond your years. Most thorough and comprehensive videos I've ever watched, and they are great.
If there is ever a Patreon that i support.. it's this guy. Very informative, great audio, well edited, good cameras, etc ..just an all around wealth of knowledge.
I spent 20 years as a troubleshooter of telecommunications systems. so I am loving what you are doing here!! I am gaining more and more knowledge to start working on electronics myself!!!
Your channel has quickly become my new favorite. So much knowledge and such a good teacher. Lesson #1: RE-CAP EVERYTHING. I've learned so much about capacitor failure from watching your videos. Keep it up Mr. Carlson, you're awesome!
Your warning about high voltages reminded me of a time in High School Electronics class when we were dissassembling old computer monitors. One student was gone when the teacher explained how to properly discharge the tube capacitor. There he was taking the monitor apart. We asked him if he discharged the tube. He looked confused. We explained the high voltages inside. He carefully put his screwdriver down and slowly backed away from the workbench.
You make things very clear and very understandable to folks like me. I don't know much about electronics but this was fascinating. Thanks for not talking "above" me.
I'm here as a musician that uses tube electronics that is quite interested in them, except I usually sit right around 40 to 150 hz, as a bassist. It's funny you say that about the master volume twin reverb, Fender actually made them less prone to distortion(not that a regular 85 watt Twin is pleasurable to be around at that volume), I had read that it was due to a shift to ultralinear output transformers. I've never been able to drive a UL 70s Fender amp to the point of overdrive that wasn't painful to be in the same building with. Even as a bass player, running my 8 ohm UL Studio Bass(200w, "enough") into a 4 ohm load it was still hearing damage volume at power tube breakup. Incredible amps, these are. I've learned so much over the last two days watching your videos about tube electronics, easily the best electronics videos on the internet.
It is always good of you to issue the warning about HIGH VOLTAGE. One time, as a young teen, I had a Motorola 2m VHF radio powered up. Managed to get the b+ across the chest and that really, really smarted. Worst shock I took. Of course, tube gear was the only readily available hobby material in the mid 60's. I did take a number of shocks and drew many sparks. I never got use to either. Later on, I learned to keep my left hand in my back pocket when probing live circuits. For those new to these circuits, make sure your scope probes can take the high voltage as some cannot. Keep the ground clip on ground.
Really happy Mr C has this up. I bought a Twin Reverb just before Christmas, i have a Princeton a Champ F5 and a Champ 600 which has a PCB not point to point. I think Leo was a genius and so was whomever he employed to drum up the circuits. I would love to see a vintage Radio converted into a Guitar Amp, nothing fancy just a singled ended low wattage Amp made from an early valve/Tube Radio. Bless you Mr. Carlson.
I want to thank you for reteaching me electronics. Please keep on making more videos as so to benefit a lot of the newbees who have consent to go down this wonderful road of discovery.
I watched this video a couple of years ago as a fan boy wanting to learn about audio electronics. Since then I have gone through a year of college in EE. Wow! It's amazing how different it is once you learn to speak the language. Thank you for the great videos.
That was very informative. I learned something I needed to learn. Also, looking at it while he was checking I noticed that this amp has been modified. I think those two pots on the back panel have been added. Fender didn't generally have controls on the back of their amps. I couldn't say what they do. And it looks like work was done on the vibrato/tremolo circuit too. Fun. Excellent video from Carlson.
Got a Twin Reverb like this sitting across the room from me that I bought in 1976 except it's an earlier 100w not 135w. Had it modified with a Rivera/Boogie sort of lead channel and used it from Egypt to Japan and points between back in my traveling days. Briefly had a 70w Pro Reverb which should be nearly identical to this Twin Reverb except half power. Now mostly use one or two of my other amps (69 100w plexi. 79 50w Marshall, 68 Bandmaster, a couple of newer Ac30 types) these days. I don't have as many amps as some folks but love them all, especially my Twin Reverb because it was my first REAL amplifier. Great to see Mr. Carlson feature this Twin Reverb amongst the vast array of gear he deals with.
Mr Carlson, I love it.Fender amps even of this era are like working on an old muscle car .I've owned my share of them my friends play them .They are the sound of rock,jazz,blues and American music in general.
What an enlightening video! I was hooked as if I was watching a good detective film. An hour and six minutes flew by in no time. Please make one about a solid state circuit.
New subscriber here. Love your videos! I was working on a 1976 Fender Vibrolux about a year ago for a friend (similar vintage, but smaller amp with roughly 40 watts output, if I recall). I have another friend with the knowledge and test equipment who went through the chassis for me. I was mostly taking it apart and cleaning 40 some years of filth out of the thing. Other than replacing the tubes and cleaning some crackly pots myself, after he was done, my work was mostly a cosmetic restoration. Got it back together, plugged my guitar in, and it sounded great! Just like new! Returned it to my friend. He loves it! There was one step I found later that we had not addressed, wherein lies my question: adjusting the bias. There is a small nylon screw on the tube side of the chassis which was on or near one of the transformers. The Vibrolux, being smaller, is only powered by 2 6L6s, hence one bias adjuster screw. I believe the Twin, as it has 4 6L6s, has 2 of these bias adjustment screws. Could you do a follow up video, once your amp is back together and running, explaining the importance and/or procedure to this process? Another music/ gear-head friend of mine said that bias adjustment is important and I should get the amp back and have this done. I did go to the trouble of buying a matched pair of 6L6s, but think that bias adjustment may still be necessary. Would love to hear your thoughts on this!
Rigorous and thorough. I bet not much leaves you wondering. Here's a thought, I'd love to hear some yarns of occasions (possibly with examples) of times when you've been truly stumped on a troubleshooting mission, even for a short time.
It's nice that you take the time to explain the theory of operation in all your videos. I particularly like the emphasis you put on safety. One of the first things I learned in the Navy is what they liked to call the "left hand rule". Simply put: Put your left hand in your back pocket when working on live circuits. In case you accidentally ground out the circuit through your body, the current travels down the length of your body versus through your chest/heart and out the other arm. It doesn't take a lot of current to stop the human heart. I followed this rule religiously when working on HF transmitters and radar sets. And I still do 'til this day.
One problem that I saw when fixing Fender amps took me years to finally get to the bottom of. Several Fender amps that I saw would have random "shot noise" that sometimes sounded like lightning interference on an AM radio, sometimes it had random whistles and squeals mixed in. I traced the noises to something in the interstage coupling circuitry. If I squirted the fishpaper and eyelet "circuit board" that Fender used with contact cleaner, the symptom would go away for a while, but would reappear once the cleaner evaporated entirely. Yes, I was mindful of the high voltages while doing that. The few times that I fixed it, I ended up removing certain tie points from the paper and letting the connection float in the air. I learned years later when working with other equipment with high impedance/high voltage connections that after the passage of decades, solder rosin flux residue becomes a noisy resistor. I now know that the original removal of the flux at the Fender factory had driven a small amount of flux into the paper which years later would cause the noises we heard.
Wow that's interesting Dobbin! I thought you were gonna say something about leaking electrolyte from a capacitor making the cardboard or elephanthide rivet panel conductive! But flux doing that? I'd never have thought.
You have the voice of Dr. Joe Dispenza! I'm working on a 1951 RCA A-78. I was just trying to figure out tube pin configuration and signal tracing. I had no idea that you would cover these topics in this video before I watched it. Thanks for great video!
Hi Mr. Carlson, I just wanted to say thank you and tell you that your Patreon program has been so informative and valuable to me. It has not only taught the fundamentals of electronic repair but given me and the rest of your patrons the information and even the tools to troubleshoot the circuitry all the way down to the component level. It’s been an amazing bit of information and I can see why so many are joining up. In addition to learning, it’s been a lot of fun and I look forward to every new video. When I saw this video today, it reminded me of that. I know that this isn’t as easy as it looks, you don’t just sit down and knock out these videos, it’s a lot of work. Like I said earlier, I just wanted to say thank you, I’m having a great time! -Buddy
I agree. I became a Patreon months before I planned on starting to build anything because I knew that the information, projects, and teaching was worth much more than what I had to pay to be a member of Paul's Patreon channel. Thanks Paul!! You're the greatest!
What is sleep but a waste of life, sleep less, power nap and get more done, including enjoyment, life's too short, a couple of years ago I was 28.... now I'm 62 OMG where has it gone????
I love your channel! I was in engineering school in 1967 so we still had tubes. Went from that to Polaris fire control in subs. We had transistor gates and 4 k core memory. For large memory it was drum memory, I think 16k. I still fix electronic equipment, but it sure has changed.
I've been working on the "CBS" Fenders since the time they were new, and the black face Fenders since the time they were 1st released. Yes on the high flying filament wires. The black faced Fenders had cloth covered solid core wire that took a higher tight twist so they tend to be less hummy. Yes the 'blue molded" poly caps almost never fail.,and yes the mallory filter caps usually have to be replaced, even though often times they "still work",.. the electrolytes dry out. The one error in design seems to be the tremolo cap that You reference at 45:12. since the tremolo circuit tends to oscillate between a cathode follower and a common cathode mode, that cap sees way more than the 25 volts it is rated for, although the current is really low. I usually replace them with a small 200-400 V electrolytics that are now readily available. 10-22 UF. The Fenders are set up to play the output into a shorting speaker jack, when the speaker is not plugged in, which is much better than leaving the xformer open. I ALWAYS plug in a resistor dummy load with a speaker divided off that load, so I can see what is going on, looking at the signal across the load resistor.. Silver face Fenders often suffer from parasitic oscillation resulting from a change to the circuit (by CBS) with the bright switch wired so that the 250 pf cap sees a resistor to ground, creating creating 360 degrees of phase shift at some high freq (20-100Khz). That resistor, though not in any schematic I've seen, is hidden behind the brite switch and a bunch of wires. remove it! Silver face Fenders have a lot of problems created by the "hiFi" engineers from CBS. However the Transformers are better quality, but not necessarily to many guitarists taste. The bias balance control is not as good as a bias control for instance. Nice to see and hear Your excellent analysis , that brings up some things i seldom think about.
Thank you so much Paul. I have watched many, many videos on tube amp servicing and followed along sort of understanding what was being said but the way you explained each step finally made the light come on. (No pun intended). I hope you do more.
Old ground based aircraft navigation transmitters had 250 VDC as low voltage, 750 VDC as medium voltage, and 12,000 VDC as the high voltage with plenty of current. You paid attention really well when you did anything at all, anywhere.
It would be nice to see a Part 2 of this video testing the Electrolytic Capacitors and replacing them, Testing the Output tubes and looking for matched pairs and also Biasing the amplifier. Thanks
I MY SELF have built a Marshall 18 watt amp . and also a fender champ 5f1 with my brother. 12 ax7 6v6 I like el 84s tube amps are great. have had a line 6 dig 75 watt spyder 4. Thank you Mr carlson for your great videos.
I signed up today for Mr Carlson's Lab Patreon $20 per month option because need to support quality videos like these - Very Well Done!! I look forward to learning more on your Patreon area.
Hello, I did watch your entire lesson it was very well presented. You are the best and most comprehensive instructor but I am still a beginner. Thank you so much for all of your great electronics presentations.
Thank you for this video! I am finally getting back into electronics. It is finally time to see what the heck I messed up with my guitar amp build I did way back around 2008. I was young and while I learned a lot, it wasn't nearly enough. I just hope I don't end up spending a lot on more components. I easily spent $300 or more on parts alone for one of the most simple tube amps ever.
I’m a guitar player watching your videos to learn more about tube amplifiers. And yes we think these things are magic .... because they are ! They are how we make our sound. But you can always replace my caps. I know they wear out.
29:20 - The output stage is basically an AC current source. With no load, you get a *major* voltage-rise if you were to crank it up! The output transformer would arc and inter-winding insulation would melt!
Excellent, I appreciate all the tech tips. Had a Fender Twin Reverb back in the 70; this thing eats speakers, as they were not matched for the power of what this amp can output. Also, the Reverb circuits are not too reliable. Otherwise, it's a lovely amp. The high voltage warning cannot be overemphasized.
Very nice Paul. Thanks! I'm very glad that I am a Patreon subscriber. I was planning on building the Curve Tracer this month and then everything started crapping out on me. I just finished fixing my Sanyo 40" LED/LCD TV that just had some bad solder joints on a few LED's on the first "A" LED strip. Now I have to rebuild the Siemen's Hall-Effect sensor fan motor in my Tek 2465A DV. I might go ahead and start on the Cap Forecaster while I'm waiting on my oil-impregnated spherical bronze bearings to get here. Thanks for all that you do!
You got me. I love Fender amps but the 135 watt Twin has around 500 volts on the B plus.They arc power switchs and tube sockets,they are "anvil in the forehead loud".Now that I got that out,all new Sprague electrolytics,new JJ 6L6s,new Tungsol 12AX7s,new EH 12ATs.Better yet sell it and buy a Deluxe Reverb.
Great content (as usual) Paul. If you ever have the opportunity, It would be great to see a part two on this video and your approach to troubleshooting amp output circuit issues, how you might design/use different loads (reactive versus resistive) to find different problems (low power, oscillation, feedback, AC hum, etc.... ) thanks again!
Before starting a project like this, I would have the musician demonstrate all of the functions of the amplifier. I would create a list of what is working and what is not working. With this list I would know if I fixed everything (or broke something, yikes!). Thank you for your videos Mr. Carlson, you rock!
I just ran across your videos and I enjoyed this one because I am considering attempting to buy, repair and resell some electronics like guitars and amplifiers for extra funds.
Haha the battle between musicians and technicians...awesome. Good explanation with the load issue. I had a Boogie Dual Rectifier on the bench once and some guy had stepped over the speaker cable on stage at full power disconnecting the speaker from the amp. The plate voltage sparked into the heater as it is the closest thing to it and evaporated the metal clips in that socket completely. After replacing the socket luckily the amp worked fine but this could have been a total blow of the complete amp easily. I wonder why manufacturers are not putting over voltage protection into there amps. I use 2x 1N4007 in series reverse at the plates to ground which gives me a 2kV protection and if these blow it is much cheaper then everything else that is in an amp. Another great video and awesome stuff on Patreon!
Very nice video. As a guitar player and amp repair guy, I need to say that having slightly different voltage levels after the phase inverter contributes a lot to the amp's personality. There will be more even harmonics in the distortion which is what gives tube amps their "warmth". As this is a guitar amp and not a high fidelity amp, that is usually desirable, and I wouldn't clean it up too much. More important would be the bias on the output tubes. Fender uses a fixed resistor (Marshal has a trim pot) and that should be checked against the tube specs. All in all, good lessons for newby techs; I enjoyed it. I like your capacitor forcaster.
Excellent video, Paul! I actually found your channel just over two years ago when repairing a valve power amp. It's great to see how far your channel has come since then, and see the subscriber count looking so healthy for an electronics channel, with many more subscribers and views yet to come. All the best!
Thanks for this video. It helped me as I worked on an older Crate Blue Voodoo 6212 combo amp. Your videos are extremely good for building confidence in the repair process. Thank you!
VERY well done Mr Carlson. VERY WELL indeed! Since I have just begun watching your incredible video's at age 88; I do not know if you have other Fender Twin amp videos. So I will tell you a little bit of trivia with these monsters: In the 50's and 60's, I repaired these and many other amps for music stores. Knowing VERY little about what I was to learn later in my electronic life, (including YOUR video's now) I was "green as a gourd". But I did have a VTVM and an Oscilloscope. Sadly, I did NOT know what I should see using these two test devices. Especially when it comes to gain, power, etc. But in time I began seeing some standards; by using a number of amps. And on and on. Over time it was a snap. I said all the above to say, I realized that I had to use a HIGH wattage resister instead of the speaker to test the amps. So I bought some HUGE high wattage, low value resistors; that matched the speaker's ohms. Then I would turn the volume control(s) to max. Then I would use Ohm's law when it came to the speaker impedance and how much voltage I needed to have, just before distortion, began to appear on the scope. If you have not made a video to see this (using your knowledge and equipment) to test the design power on a given amp; I would ask you to do this. I would love to see you show "gains and power", etc, all through the amp. And thank you kind Sir.
I feel you have a lot to contribute to people wanting to better themselves in the field. Maybe you could do so with about half the words? I mean, if someone is watching this to figure out how to fix their amp, and they really need a in-depth explanation of how capacitors work, they're probably a bit in over their heads.
I've been in the electro game for many years both on domestic and commercial stuff and never met anyone with your experience and knowledge give your apparent age .
Take your pocket knife and scratch the base of the tube where the index pin used to be also mark the river it lines up with. You gave me lots of tips. Thank you?
Hi Ken, you are very correct about the microphonic aspect of ceramic capacitors. If they are used for bypass, and are not in the audio chain (or have been chosen for a specific quality) it's ok to leave them in circuit.
Yes. I should have said that I replace only the ones in the signal path. And, only if they are particularly microphonic. Otherwise, there is no need to replace them. Cheers!
I just discovered your channel and subscribed immediately!!!! I look forward to checking out your channel & videos and learning much from you!! I see that you are very well respected and want to add my voice to the multitude of those that thank you for sharing your knowledge & wisdom. THANK YOU!!!! Best regards from your newest fan & follower: Norman in Montreal, Canada.
Thanks so much for your excellent tutorial...it was just like watching my father who pass years ago .Explaining to me things in his TV repair shop in the 50-60's...once more.
Had a Fender Performer 100 watt amp that I let another band borrow during a show, the guitarist ended up stepping on the footswitch cable and broke the 1/4" jack solder point. The amp would randomly switch between channels when playing due to the vibration from the speaker. With no electronics knowledge and a cheap $10 soldering iron, I was able to repair it. Been working fine since and it really sparked an interest in electronics and soldering.
I translate musician terms to engineering terms. What they talk about most is "tone." That refers to the overall characteristic sound of an amp. They aren't crazy, and they aren't really being picky. They have a sound that they like and they want to retain that. The plate resistors may have increased in value, and increased headroom. If they like that, you need to either install a corresponding current value of metal or carbon film resistor or just leave it alone. The original may read 120K instead of the marked 100K. But with caps, leakage is the worst thing.
Thank you for this excellent, informed video! One extra safety precaution I always take when working on amp like this that have a standby switch, is to leave the standby in the "up" (play) position until the repair is complete. The standby interrupts the B+ voltage between the rectifier and OT primary/ filter caps under the chassis, so if you try to drain residual HT from the rectifier with the standby off, there's a chance that the caps won't drain properly as the switch interrupts the flow. I always think it's a good idea to touch your drain probes to both lugs on the standby switch as an extra precaution that the HT on both sides of the switch is gone.
You use ge silicone II, too. I use it for heat shielding especially on induction coils. I put about 1/2” layers on them.. I’ve gotten inverters , high power drivers, fet’s etc to last for years using this method.
One thing I would add when probing around with an AC coupled scope probe, dealing with wide voltage swings on valve equipment, is that when moving to different parts of the cct, always ground the probe to discharge the DC stored in the coupling capacitor in the scope. Not so important with an all valve set, but if you were to put the probe onto a OP amp or transistor after you have been looking at an anode of something, a few hundred volts could cause an unhappy weekend.
I think it's best to do that after every measurement tubes or otherwise unless you are going right back to the same point in the circuit. It's actually a very easy habit to get into just like when you take high voltage measurements or are probing a high current environment always position your probe so that if it slips off the connection it does so in such a way as it doesn't short anything out. It's all in the way you apply touch pressure to your probe connection.
Aaaargggh! Don't worry about it. Most coupling caps will not be rated much over 50v, because most scope inputs can't withstand high voltages (not designed to). This is why you have a x10 probe, (also for bandwidth of course), to extend your vertical range. The probe has an average 10 million ohm impedance. Nothing is going to happen here - never has to me, and shouldn't to anyone else. Certainly there will never be 500 volts sitting on that cap...The probes are cat rated - or should be - and will be rated to a certain voltage.
@@martinda7446 I don't want to be looking at what's on a plate in an intermittent circuit and then just stab at the next grid and send a spike all the way down stream possibly "healing" the problem.
"They look at these amps like they are magic" You nailed it right on the head - we do tend to look at all of our equipment that way. We guitar players are a strange bunch sometimes.
Or simply a black box. You plug your guitar in, sound comes out. What happens inbetween is none of your business, because "your business is just to shut up and play". That's the mindset of most musicians, and for good reason IMO. Of course the analog synth guys and those kind of people don't fit in this pigeonhole, but you get my drift.
Lol whenever my old tube guitar amps start to sound especially magical, something is about to wear out. Usually a tube but sometimes resistor drift alters things just right for your playing style. I could be wrong but I think old filter caps that are slowing down or wearing out can induce a great sag effect that seems like compression. I know they need to be replaced or something bad will happen but in the meantime.... something good is happening!
I've noticed the subtle sound nuances all disappear as does any talk of playing style when a "guitarist" is instantly disrobed by handing them an acoustic guitar and some music.
Thought it might be worth adding that when testing transistor or valve amps, there are different considerations as to loading the speaker output. With a transistor amp it's generally quite OK to run it with no speaker or dummy load connected, even at reasonably high signal levels. The thing that will damage a transistor amp is a short on the output, and the damage can occur literally in milliseconds. Transistors can pass high currents because they have inherently a very low internal resistance. Even if the amp still works after the short, it may have been damaged and pack-up a while later. Since many such amps are DC-coupled, an output short with no signal can still do damage. As can shorting the output soon after de-powering if the supply caps are still charged. A problem can arise here with certain 1/4" jacks and jack sockets, where the jack tip can ground-down momentarily as it's put in or pulled out. The momentary short this creates can do damage. A Speakon or XLR connector is preferable. Somee people imagine that the fuse will save the output transistors. It will not. The fuse is there to prevent a fire. On stereo amps, never parallel the two channels to the same speaker. This is effectively the same as shorting both outputs, and is very likely to do damage. Some of the more powerful units have bridge outputs, on which both sides of the speaker have signal voltages. Therefore, never assume that you can safely ground either terminal of the speaker, for example with a scope probe shield. A further concern is that a fault in a sold state amp can destroy the speaker by putting DC onto it. Therefore, either use a speaker you can afford to lose, or test with a series resistor (say 100 ohms) to limit the current. With a vacuum tube amp, it's a rather different situation. Tubes have a high internal resistance, so the short-circuit current is inherently limited. An output short will generally do no damage so long as it's not sustained long enough to get the anodes red hot. Running the amp with no load at high volume though, will cause abnormally high voltages on the output transformer and tube sockets, and may cause a flashover. This is even more so if there is a faulty connection in the speaker wiring which makes and breaks. (That output transformer is basically a car ignition coil on steroids, and it will want to produce a spark if the circuit is suddenly interrupted.) I would always take a close look at the output tube sockets, and replace any that show tracking marks around the anode pins to any nearby ground. This is usually a sign that the have arced in the past, and once the insulation is weakened they may do so again. So, test solid state amps either unloaded or with a dummy load, but be especially careful to avoid shorts. Test vacuum tube amps with a dummy load, and beware of bad connections. In either case the dummy load need not be exactly the speaker impedance, somewhat higher resistance is better than lower though. A series resistor for your test speaker is also a useful addition, allows monitoring at low volume, and won't pass enough DC from a faulty amp to burn your speaker out. HTH. These video bring back fond memories of my time on the audio bench. In some ways more rewarding (and less frustrating!) work than maintaining computers. Oh, and do heed the safety warnings. They are not exaggerated. There are some truly evil voltages in guitar amps.
@@micametalgem3721 Hi mica. I agree. Much safer to connect at least a 100 ohm or less resistor across the speaker terminals just in case. You may accidentally cause a 'blurt' by touching a test probe onto a grid with your finger touching it (hopefully not!), or something similar. This 'blurt' may be enough to damage the amp. I don't think it's worth risking a $2000 amp by simply not connecting a resistor across the speaker terminals, especially if it's someone elses amp!
To learn more about electronics in a different and very effective way, and at the same time support this channel, go to Mr Carlson's Patreon page, click here: www.patreon.com/MrCarlsonsLab
the absolute madman, he actually did it
please teach how to download a copy of your brain into mine, thank you :D
Hello Paul. Really enjoy your videos. Thank you. What is your opinion on whether same spec valves from different manufacturers really make a difference to the sound of audio amplifiers? For instance I have seen vintage NOS Telefunken ECC83/12AX7 valves (similar to those in the Harmon Kardon Citation you serviced recently) selling for £150 or more vs other makes for £10 - £15. Is there really any justification for this large price range? I can appreciate that some valves are more microphonic than others but many claim there are tonal and other subtle differences. Perhaps you could make a short video either debunking or confirming the facts on this sensitive issue. Keep up the good work and excellent content.
Thank you for your input Sharkey. The video would be great. I'm not so sure if people can handle the truth when it comes to this question. I find many want to believe in magic. The video would be controversial, that's for sure.
Hi Paul. Yes I am sure it would be controversial, my belief is that one strong tube sounds the same as another but I don't have "magic" ears like some.
Perhaps you could do a video specifically about matching valves, why and where it is important. ie phase splitters, stereo gain stages and outputs.
I have valve hifi amps but rarely use matched valves in anything but the output stage. I am interested to know what matching tolerances are acceptable especially in phase splitter circuit. Perhaps a demo illustrating the circuit with mismatched tubes vs matched and the problems if any that arise from mismatched tubes. Which characteristics are matched by vendors, ie. In the past I have bought GrooveTubes EL34s in matched quads. GrooveTubes claim to match their tubes for gain AND distortion, How is this achieved, is it just marketing.
Three years ago this was one of the first tube amplifier video I watched, now I work on amps for a local shop and my own customers.
oof
I find myself more and more these days, in a state of awe and wonderment. The fact that resources like this exist, of a quality and depth that would have been unthinkable just a few years ago, for nearly anyone and everyone’s benefit...seriously, what a friggin’ time to be alive!I’ve got to remember not to take it all for granted more often.
I’m light years from being considered a professionally competent engineer. My career certainly has a heavy technical aspect to it, but I also have just an insatiable curiosity when it comes to understanding the world around me.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you for making these videos.
Their value, to me, is inestimable.
I know right?
I don't have a ton of cash so I try to spend what little patreon money I have on people I feel really make a difference. As soon as I saw the first couple of videos I jumped on his patreon.
Paul is amazing, super easy to follow, incredibly thorough and the test equipment that you build in his course are almost beyond belief in their abilities, especially the SIFT capacitor tester / Prognosticator and the Super Probe.
I'm like you and far from being anything more than a Simple hobbyist. These videos and the test gear that you build have me much closer to the "Somewhat Advanced but not a pro" Level...
The resource that is amazing and beyond belief is Mr. Carlson himself. Everything you see around you was once a thought in someones or somethings mind, even the stuff not man made.
I concur.
You are so correct sir. I got really serious about electronics troubleshooting around 1999 or so. I was about 17. I used a lot of Internet newsgroups back then. It wasn't great all the time, but now, it's just amazing what we can do and learn. The funny thing is when I wanted to start learning about repairing power supplies and things like stereos and tvs, everyone said I was wasting my time, that nothing is worth fixing anymore, etc. I didn't listen to anyone. I did what I wanted to do and i'm happy with that. I got such tremendous pleasure out of fixing an old 14" CRT monitor then, and I still do to this day. I don't regret my choice at all. This channel and Mr. Carlson help me get better at this, and i'm grateful to him for that.
Thank you Paul for sharing this Patron video, because of it, I was made aware of snubbers in a bridge rectifier, then doing some research, learned of their value.
Cheers,
Adriel
I have been working on electronic equipment for several years now and have even taught a rather condensed and relatively advanced electronics course recently. I must say that I've always loved my field as a total science nut, however finding Mr. Carlson's videos has changed everything for me. I didn't expect to find someone so in touch with this world of electronics. This is either formal training as an instructor or the greatest naturally talented instructor I've ever seen, and I've met many great professors and teachers. Mr. Carlson has turned my profession into more of a passion than ever before. Watching Mr. Carlson work is a very humbling experience for me as it shows how much there is to learn as well as how exciting electronics can be!
The Bob Ross of electrical and electronic videos. Calm, exceptionally knowledgeable, very well produced videos. Nicely done, Mr. Carlson.
Thanks Jim!
Was an owner/operator of an electronics repair shop, did warranty and non-warranty repairs for some major manufacturers of radio/tv for almost 40 years. I still learn from watching the workflow of others. Enjoy your videos... loved the Hammerlund restorations. Keep up the great work... Rich
Your advice on dealing with a musician client… you my friend are a true pro and total gentleman. SPOT ON!
BOY you are the tech EVERYONE WANTS....methodical...thorough....detailed.....you're TERRIFIC.
VERY experienced. So great....THANKS Paul....(UNCLE DOUG....TWO OR THREE others.... such good tutorials.). Perfect for me. Your a GIFT really. Thanks again!
uncle doug doesnt even know how to wire safety grounds properly. Id recommend psionic audio and brad's guitar garage for other experienced amp techs
I cannot understand for the life of me, why anybody would give a thumbs down to this or Doug. His knowledge and clarity of explanation there of, combined with his mannerisms are no less than 1000% professional and thorough. His videos are gold!
I have given him a thumbs down for the fender reverb amp video. He recommended an illegal, unsafe modification to earth wiring that I could not approve of. Don't be mesmerised by his 'dulcit tones'. He is not a god. He is very good, but not omnipotent!
😢started learning electronics in the mid 70s from a tv repair man who was also an electrical engineer also tought me math that i could never grasp in school learned mor in 3months of working with him then i did the entire time in school you remind me much of him in my 60s now cant see for sheit but love whatching your videos makes me really miss my electronics
Your teaching is a generous gift Mr. Carlson. Even at 70 I'm playing and learning. Thanks.
You're very Welcome!
While I don't understand much of your commentary, I manage to learn something from every one of your videos. I still have many videos left to watch, and very much look forward to seeing them.
You, along with Uncle Doug, DLabs and The Guitologist, are by far some of the best channels on youtube for troubleshooting vintage gear.
Props to all of you.
Invaluable information.
Smithii I second that
I am gonna check those out, I would also add.
EEVblog, Louis Rossman, Ave, this old Tony and Electroboom for some high voltage comedy.
Thanks so much for including me in your list of preferred channels, S :)
@@UncleDoug Who are you uncle Doug?
I will check you out.
Hi @@UncleDoug I just watched your current limiter protection video and I have one question. What does it matter the black wire or the white wire for the bulb? I thought AC was AC and both sides were in effect the same?
electricity is fascinating and channels like yours and electroboom make things simple enough for an ignoramus like me to understand. Thanks for teaching mate.
New subscriber
Mr Carlson, You sir are a intelligent man, I'm now old and always wanted to learn electronics, now just to old to start, just enough to learn somethings to help me, The best way for me to learn is to have you show me one on one, Thats how I have learned everything in my life, and reading. I do learn quick ,when someone shows me.. great videos
This was excellent! The way you pointed out the signal path in the chassis and how that corresponds to the schematic was what I've needed to know. I've watched others explain about the circuitry, but nothing comes close to this.
I worked as business equipment engineer for many years and I used to service automatic bank dictation equipment I.e. connected to telephone exchanges. The GPO engineer at the exchange told me the painters were in to brighten up the rooms around the equipment. There was racks of lead acid batteries all connected in parallel for power backup if the mains failed! they remarked “it’s safe enough as the total voltage is only 50 volts! They forgot to mention that the total current available was massive (several thousands of amps) There was a huge bang when somebody dropped an aluminium ladder among the terminals and part of the ladder simply melted! Lucky nobody was injured! H S wasn’t very strict in these days! Fraser
Thanks for sharing your story!
For such a seemingly young fellow, you seem to have knowledge way beyond your years. Most thorough and comprehensive videos I've ever watched, and they are great.
Yes maybe worked with an old timer ?
That's exactly my thoughts.
If there is ever a Patreon that i support.. it's this guy. Very informative, great audio, well edited, good cameras, etc ..just an all around wealth of knowledge.
I spent 20 years as a troubleshooter of telecommunications systems. so I am loving what you are doing here!! I am gaining more and more knowledge to start working on electronics myself!!!
Thanks!
Your channel has quickly become my new favorite. So much knowledge and such a good teacher. Lesson #1: RE-CAP EVERYTHING. I've learned so much about capacitor failure from watching your videos. Keep it up Mr. Carlson, you're awesome!
Thanks Nicholas!
Like the butler, the capacitor is nearly always guilty.
Your warning about high voltages reminded me of a time in High School Electronics class when we were dissassembling old computer monitors. One student was gone when the teacher explained how to properly discharge the tube capacitor. There he was taking the monitor apart. We asked him if he discharged the tube. He looked confused. We explained the high voltages inside. He carefully put his screwdriver down and slowly backed away from the workbench.
Hah, that's... a surprisingly sober and proper reaction. ;)
You make things very clear and very understandable to folks like me. I don't know much about electronics but this was fascinating. Thanks for not talking "above" me.
I'm here as a musician that uses tube electronics that is quite interested in them, except I usually sit right around 40 to 150 hz, as a bassist. It's funny you say that about the master volume twin reverb, Fender actually made them less prone to distortion(not that a regular 85 watt Twin is pleasurable to be around at that volume), I had read that it was due to a shift to ultralinear output transformers. I've never been able to drive a UL 70s Fender amp to the point of overdrive that wasn't painful to be in the same building with. Even as a bass player, running my 8 ohm UL Studio Bass(200w, "enough") into a 4 ohm load it was still hearing damage volume at power tube breakup. Incredible amps, these are.
I've learned so much over the last two days watching your videos about tube electronics, easily the best electronics videos on the internet.
I worked on this type of amplifiers in the late '70s. Thanks for the memories.
tales me back into my tube tv days. LOL. The easy-to-follow technique of illustration keeps me watching these.
It is always good of you to issue the warning about HIGH VOLTAGE. One time, as a young teen, I had a Motorola 2m VHF radio powered up. Managed to get the b+ across the chest and that really, really smarted. Worst shock I took. Of course, tube gear was the only readily available hobby material in the mid 60's. I did take a number of shocks and drew many sparks. I never got use to either. Later on, I learned to keep my left hand in my back pocket when probing live circuits. For those new to these circuits, make sure your scope probes can take the high voltage as some cannot. Keep the ground clip on ground.
Really happy Mr C has this up. I bought a Twin Reverb just before Christmas, i have a Princeton a Champ F5 and a Champ 600 which has a PCB not point to point. I think Leo was a genius and so was whomever he employed to drum up the circuits. I would love to see a vintage Radio converted into a Guitar Amp, nothing fancy just a singled ended low wattage Amp made from an early valve/Tube Radio. Bless you Mr. Carlson.
I want to thank you for reteaching me electronics. Please keep on making more videos as so to benefit a lot of the newbees who have consent to go down this wonderful road of discovery.
You're welcome Mr Victory.
I watched this video a couple of years ago as a fan boy wanting to learn about audio electronics. Since then I have gone through a year of college in EE. Wow! It's amazing how different it is once you learn to speak the language. Thank you for the great videos.
That was very informative. I learned something I needed to learn. Also, looking at it while he was checking I noticed that this amp has been modified. I think those two pots on the back panel have been added. Fender didn't generally have controls on the back of their amps. I couldn't say what they do. And it looks like work was done on the vibrato/tremolo circuit too. Fun. Excellent video from Carlson.
I appreciate Mr. Carlson’s enthusiasm and appreciation for electronics, still so strong after so much experience.
Got a Twin Reverb like this sitting across the room from me that I bought in 1976 except it's an earlier 100w not 135w. Had it modified with a Rivera/Boogie sort of lead channel and used it from Egypt to Japan and points between back in my traveling days. Briefly had a 70w Pro Reverb which should be nearly identical to this Twin Reverb except half power. Now mostly use one or two of my other amps (69 100w plexi. 79 50w Marshall, 68 Bandmaster, a couple of newer Ac30 types) these days. I don't have as many amps as some folks but love them all, especially my Twin Reverb because it was my first REAL amplifier. Great to see Mr. Carlson feature this Twin Reverb amongst the vast array of gear he deals with.
Mr Carlson, I love it.Fender amps even of this era are like working on an old muscle car .I've owned my share of them my friends play them .They are the sound of rock,jazz,blues and American music in general.
What an enlightening video!
I was hooked as if I was watching a good detective film. An hour and six minutes flew by in no time.
Please make one about a solid state circuit.
Mr. Carlson is the best at simply and thoroughly explaining electronics! Thank you!!!!!!
New subscriber here. Love your videos!
I was working on a 1976 Fender Vibrolux about a year ago for a friend (similar vintage, but smaller amp with roughly 40 watts output, if I recall). I have another friend with the knowledge and test equipment who went through the chassis for me. I was mostly taking it apart and cleaning 40 some years of filth out of the thing. Other than replacing the tubes and cleaning some crackly pots myself, after he was done, my work was mostly a cosmetic restoration. Got it back together, plugged my guitar in, and it sounded great! Just like new! Returned it to my friend. He loves it!
There was one step I found later that we had not addressed, wherein lies my question: adjusting the bias. There is a small nylon screw on the tube side of the chassis which was on or near one of the transformers. The Vibrolux, being smaller, is only powered by 2 6L6s, hence one bias adjuster screw. I believe the Twin, as it has 4 6L6s, has 2 of these bias adjustment screws. Could you do a follow up video, once your amp is back together and running, explaining the importance and/or procedure to this process? Another music/ gear-head friend of mine said that bias adjustment is important and I should get the amp back and have this done. I did go to the trouble of buying a matched pair of 6L6s, but think that bias adjustment may still be necessary. Would love to hear your thoughts on this!
This is great, it brings me back 50 years
Rigorous and thorough. I bet not much leaves you wondering. Here's a thought, I'd love to hear some yarns of occasions (possibly with examples) of times when you've been truly stumped on a troubleshooting mission, even for a short time.
It's nice that you take the time to explain the theory of operation in all your videos. I particularly like the emphasis you put on safety. One of the first things I learned in the Navy is what they liked to call the "left hand rule". Simply put: Put your left hand in your back pocket when working on live circuits. In case you accidentally ground out the circuit through your body, the current travels down the length of your body versus through your chest/heart and out the other arm. It doesn't take a lot of current to stop the human heart. I followed this rule religiously when working on HF transmitters and radar sets. And I still do 'til this day.
It is a pleasure being part of your Patreon and I appreciate all the knowledge and skill you have shared with so many! Excellent channel and work!
God bless you, you are the best, Your posts are a treasure to whoever wants to learn, thank you millions
You are very welcome!
One problem that I saw when fixing Fender amps took me years to finally get to the bottom of. Several Fender amps that I saw would have random "shot noise" that sometimes sounded like lightning interference on an AM radio, sometimes it had random whistles and squeals mixed in. I traced the noises to something in the interstage coupling circuitry. If I squirted the fishpaper and eyelet "circuit board" that Fender used with contact cleaner, the symptom would go away for a while, but would reappear once the cleaner evaporated entirely. Yes, I was mindful of the high voltages while doing that. The few times that I fixed it, I ended up removing certain tie points from the paper and letting the connection float in the air. I learned years later when working with other equipment with high impedance/high voltage connections that after the passage of decades, solder rosin flux residue becomes a noisy resistor. I now know that the original removal of the flux at the Fender factory had driven a small amount of flux into the paper which years later would cause the noises we heard.
Wow that's interesting Dobbin! I thought you were gonna say something about leaking electrolyte from a capacitor making the cardboard or elephanthide rivet panel conductive! But flux doing that? I'd never have thought.
Your instructional videos are the finest I've seen on UA-cam. Thank you.
You have the voice of Dr. Joe Dispenza!
I'm working on a 1951 RCA A-78. I was just trying to figure out tube pin configuration and signal tracing. I had no idea that you would cover these topics in this video before I watched it. Thanks for great video!
Hi Mr. Carlson, I just wanted to say thank you and tell you that your Patreon program has been so informative and valuable to me. It has not only taught the fundamentals of electronic repair but given me and the rest of your patrons the information and even the tools to troubleshoot the circuitry all the way down to the component level. It’s been an amazing bit of information and I can see why so many are joining up. In addition to learning, it’s been a lot of fun and I look forward to every new video. When I saw this video today, it reminded me of that. I know that this isn’t as easy as it looks, you don’t just sit down and knock out these videos, it’s a lot of work. Like I said earlier, I just wanted to say thank you, I’m having a great time! -Buddy
Thanks for your kind comment Buddy! Lots of sleepless night go into these video's. I'm beginning to think, the lack of sleep is "video fuel."
I agree. I became a Patreon months before I planned on starting to build anything because I knew that the information, projects, and teaching was worth much more than what I had to pay to be a member of Paul's Patreon channel. Thanks Paul!! You're the greatest!
What is sleep but a waste of life, sleep less, power nap and get more done, including enjoyment, life's too short, a couple of years ago I was 28.... now I'm 62 OMG where has it gone????
That was a very kind description of Kenwood's use of Sony bond at the 24 minute mark!
I love your channel! I was in engineering school in 1967 so we still had tubes. Went from that to Polaris fire control in subs. We had transistor gates and 4 k core memory. For large memory it was drum memory, I think 16k. I still fix electronic equipment, but it sure has changed.
Glad I found these videos, very thorough. Each one yields a wheelbarrow of knowledge. Keep up the good work. You are my new hero Thank you!
I've been working on the "CBS" Fenders since the time they were new, and the black face Fenders since the time they were 1st released. Yes on the high flying filament wires. The black faced Fenders had cloth covered solid core wire that took a higher tight twist so they tend to be less hummy. Yes the 'blue molded" poly caps almost never fail.,and yes the mallory filter caps usually have to be replaced, even though often times they "still work",.. the electrolytes dry out. The one error in design seems to be the tremolo cap that You reference at 45:12. since the tremolo circuit tends to oscillate between a cathode follower and a common cathode mode, that cap sees way more than the 25 volts it is rated for, although the current is really low. I usually replace them with a small 200-400 V electrolytics that are now readily available. 10-22 UF. The Fenders are set up to play the output into a shorting speaker jack, when the speaker is not plugged in, which is much better than leaving the xformer open. I ALWAYS plug in a resistor dummy load with a speaker divided off that load, so I can see what is going on, looking at the signal across the load resistor.. Silver face Fenders often suffer from parasitic oscillation resulting from a change to the circuit (by CBS) with the bright switch wired so that the 250 pf cap sees a resistor to ground, creating creating 360 degrees of phase shift at some high freq (20-100Khz). That resistor, though not in any schematic I've seen, is hidden behind the brite switch and a bunch of wires. remove it! Silver face Fenders have a lot of problems created by the "hiFi" engineers from CBS. However the Transformers are better quality, but not necessarily to many guitarists taste. The bias balance control is not as good as a bias control for instance. Nice to see and hear Your excellent analysis , that brings up some things i seldom think about.
As an EE, Tube Amp repair and modding is a type of meditation for me, and "In the Grid Out the Plate", is my Mantra ! Thanks for cool video !
I always smile when Paul says: "bad things happen..." because we all know what it means in electronics...
Thank you so much Paul. I have watched many, many videos on tube amp servicing and followed along sort of understanding what was being said but the way you explained each step finally made the light come on. (No pun intended). I hope you do more.
Old ground based aircraft navigation transmitters had 250 VDC as low voltage, 750 VDC as medium voltage, and 12,000 VDC as the high voltage with plenty of current. You paid attention really well when you did anything at all, anywhere.
Good to see. At this stage you have helped me decide I'm not ready to handle high voltage stuff. A little bit more learning and practice first.
It would be nice to see a Part 2 of this video testing the Electrolytic Capacitors and replacing them, Testing the Output tubes and looking for matched pairs and also Biasing the amplifier.
Thanks
Betcha he does just that!
I MY SELF have built a Marshall 18 watt amp . and also a fender champ 5f1 with my brother. 12 ax7 6v6 I like el 84s tube amps are great. have had a line 6 dig 75 watt spyder 4. Thank you Mr carlson for your great videos.
Just love your videos Mr. Carlson. Thanks for suck excellent quality presentations. Your up there in my top ten UA-cam presenters.
Thanks Paul, what a great way to spend my morning while I should be working :)
mr. carlson is a true genius...wish I could be this good at troubleshooting!
I signed up today for Mr Carlson's Lab Patreon $20 per month option because need to support quality videos like these - Very Well Done!! I look forward to learning more on your Patreon area.
You are so kind...such a talented man......you really know how to teach.....God bless you....
Hello, I did watch your entire lesson it was very well presented. You are the best and most comprehensive instructor but I am still a beginner. Thank you so much for all of your great electronics presentations.
this guy is the best viewing i have ever ever ever seen...he is an amazing person.
Thank you for this video! I am finally getting back into electronics. It is finally time to see what the heck I messed up with my guitar amp build I did way back around 2008. I was young and while I learned a lot, it wasn't nearly enough.
I just hope I don't end up spending a lot on more components. I easily spent $300 or more on parts alone for one of the most simple tube amps ever.
I’m a guitar player watching your videos to learn more about tube amplifiers. And yes we think these things are magic .... because they are ! They are how we make our sound. But you can always replace my caps. I know they wear out.
29:20 - The output stage is basically an AC current source. With no load, you get a *major* voltage-rise if you were to crank it up! The output transformer would arc and inter-winding insulation would melt!
Excellent, I appreciate all the tech tips. Had a Fender Twin Reverb back in the 70; this thing eats speakers, as they were not matched for the power of what this amp can output. Also, the Reverb circuits are not too reliable. Otherwise, it's a lovely amp. The high voltage warning cannot be overemphasized.
Great stuff man, you're with no doubt one of the best and most useful channels, keep it up, you're great.
Very nice Paul. Thanks! I'm very glad that I am a Patreon subscriber. I was planning on building the Curve Tracer this month and then everything started crapping out on me. I just finished fixing my Sanyo 40" LED/LCD TV that just had some bad solder joints on a few LED's on the first "A" LED strip. Now I have to rebuild the Siemen's Hall-Effect sensor fan motor in my Tek 2465A DV. I might go ahead and start on the Cap Forecaster while I'm waiting on my oil-impregnated spherical bronze bearings to get here. Thanks for all that you do!
You got me. I love Fender amps but the 135 watt Twin has around 500 volts on the B plus.They arc power switchs and tube sockets,they are "anvil in the forehead loud".Now that I got that out,all new Sprague electrolytics,new JJ 6L6s,new Tungsol 12AX7s,new EH 12ATs.Better yet sell it and buy a Deluxe Reverb.
Great content (as usual) Paul. If you ever have the opportunity, It would be great to see a part two on this video and your approach to troubleshooting amp output circuit issues, how you might design/use different loads (reactive versus resistive) to find different problems (low power, oscillation, feedback, AC hum, etc.... ) thanks again!
Before starting a project like this, I would have the musician demonstrate all of the functions of the amplifier. I would create a list of what is working and what is not working. With this list I would know if I fixed everything (or broke something, yikes!).
Thank you for your videos Mr. Carlson, you rock!
I just ran across your videos and I enjoyed this one because I am considering attempting to buy, repair and resell some electronics like guitars and amplifiers for extra funds.
Haha the battle between musicians and technicians...awesome. Good explanation with the load issue. I had a Boogie Dual Rectifier on the bench once and some guy had stepped over the speaker cable on stage at full power disconnecting the speaker from the amp. The plate voltage sparked into the heater as it is the closest thing to it and evaporated the metal clips in that socket completely. After replacing the socket luckily the amp worked fine but this could have been a total blow of the complete amp easily. I wonder why manufacturers are not putting over voltage protection into there amps. I use 2x 1N4007 in series reverse at the plates to ground which gives me a 2kV protection and if these blow it is much cheaper then everything else that is in an amp. Another great video and awesome stuff on Patreon!
A coupla rect. diodes ay? That sounds like a very good idea pentode!
Also, a 100 ohm, say 10 Watt resistor soldered across the speaker terminals inside the chassis would provide additional protection.
Very nice video. As a guitar player and amp repair guy, I need to say that having slightly different voltage levels after the phase inverter contributes a lot to the amp's personality. There will be more even harmonics in the distortion which is what gives tube amps their "warmth". As this is a guitar amp and not a high fidelity amp, that is usually desirable, and I wouldn't clean it up too much. More important would be the bias on the output tubes. Fender uses a fixed resistor (Marshal has a trim pot) and that should be checked against the tube specs. All in all, good lessons for newby techs; I enjoyed it. I like your capacitor forcaster.
Excellent video, Paul! I actually found your channel just over two years ago when repairing a valve power amp. It's great to see how far your channel has come since then, and see the subscriber count looking so healthy for an electronics channel, with many more subscribers and views yet to come. All the best!
Your a genius Mr.Carlson, I love your channel and ability to educate the general audience, for me anyways.
Thanks for sharing!
Kind regards Eric Dee
Thanks for this video. It helped me as I worked on an older Crate Blue Voodoo 6212 combo amp. Your videos are extremely good for building confidence in the repair process. Thank you!
You're welcome Mike!
VERY well done Mr Carlson. VERY WELL indeed!
Since I have just begun watching your incredible video's at age 88; I do not know if you have other Fender Twin amp videos. So I will tell you a little bit of trivia with these monsters:
In the 50's and 60's, I repaired these and many other amps for music stores. Knowing VERY little about what I was to learn later in my electronic life, (including YOUR video's now) I was "green as a gourd".
But I did have a VTVM and an Oscilloscope. Sadly, I did NOT know what I should see using these two test devices. Especially when it comes to gain, power, etc. But in time I began seeing some standards; by using a number of amps. And on and on. Over time it was a snap.
I said all the above to say, I realized that I had to use a HIGH wattage resister instead of the speaker to test the amps. So I bought some HUGE high wattage, low value resistors; that matched the speaker's ohms. Then I would turn the volume control(s) to max. Then I would use Ohm's law when it came to the speaker impedance and how much voltage I needed to have, just before distortion, began to appear on the scope.
If you have not made a video to see this (using your knowledge and equipment) to test the design power on a given amp; I would ask you to do this. I would love to see you show "gains and power", etc, all through the amp.
And thank you kind Sir.
I feel you have a lot to contribute to people wanting to better themselves in the field. Maybe you could do so with about half the words? I mean, if someone is watching this to figure out how to fix their amp, and they really need a in-depth explanation of how capacitors work, they're probably a bit in over their heads.
Totally amazing. And I don't even work with tubes. But there are so much other to learn from your videos.
I've been in the electro game for many years both on domestic and commercial stuff and never met anyone with your experience and knowledge give your apparent age .
Take your pocket knife and scratch the base of the tube where the index pin used to be also mark the river it lines up with. You gave me lots of tips. Thank you?
Paul. Those .01µF ceramic capacitors are long lived. But, I very often replace them with poly caps, because they tend to be highly microphonic.
Hi Ken, you are very correct about the microphonic aspect of ceramic capacitors. If they are used for bypass, and are not in the audio chain (or have been chosen for a specific quality) it's ok to leave them in circuit.
Yes. I should have said that I replace only the ones in the signal path. And, only if they are particularly microphonic. Otherwise, there is no need to replace them. Cheers!
I just discovered your channel and subscribed immediately!!!! I look forward to checking out your channel & videos and learning much from you!! I see that you are very well respected and want to add my voice to the multitude of those that thank you for sharing your knowledge & wisdom.
THANK YOU!!!! Best regards from your newest fan & follower:
Norman in Montreal, Canada.
i love all the carlson inventions, but that super multi capacitor tester is by far my favorite, i will have to get it at some point!
Thanks so much for your excellent tutorial...it was just like watching my father who pass years ago .Explaining to me things in his TV repair shop in the 50-60's...once more.
Had a Fender Performer 100 watt amp that I let another band borrow during a show, the guitarist ended up stepping on the footswitch cable and broke the 1/4" jack solder point. The amp would randomly switch between channels when playing due to the vibration from the speaker. With no electronics knowledge and a cheap $10 soldering iron, I was able to repair it. Been working fine since and it really sparked an interest in electronics and soldering.
I translate musician terms to engineering terms. What they talk about most is "tone." That refers to the overall characteristic sound of an amp. They aren't crazy, and they aren't really being picky. They have a sound that they like and they want to retain that. The plate resistors may have increased in value, and increased headroom. If they like that, you need to either install a corresponding current value of metal or carbon film resistor or just leave it alone. The original may read 120K instead of the marked 100K. But with caps, leakage is the worst thing.
Excellent as always. I am trying to fix a modern mixer P.A. that is mostly SMD. Needed some Carlson therapy to stay sane!
This video was an excellent campaign to the morning coffee.
Thanks so much for sharing this video with the general public.
Thank you for this excellent, informed video! One extra safety precaution I always take when working on amp like this that have a standby switch, is to leave the standby in the "up" (play) position until the repair is complete. The standby interrupts the B+ voltage between the rectifier and OT primary/ filter caps under the chassis, so if you try to drain residual HT from the rectifier with the standby off, there's a chance that the caps won't drain properly as the switch interrupts the flow. I always think it's a good idea to touch your drain probes to both lugs on the standby switch as an extra precaution that the HT on both sides of the switch is gone.
You use ge silicone II, too. I use it for heat shielding especially on induction coils. I put about 1/2” layers on them.. I’ve gotten inverters , high power drivers, fet’s etc to last for years using this method.
One thing I would add when probing around with an AC coupled scope probe, dealing with wide voltage swings on valve equipment, is that when moving to different parts of the cct, always ground the probe to discharge the DC stored in the coupling capacitor in the scope. Not so important with an all valve set, but if you were to put the probe onto a OP amp or transistor after you have been looking at an anode of something, a few hundred volts could cause an unhappy weekend.
Those are words of experience Seth!
You are of course using the recommended x10 probe with its 10MOhm impedance...etc..
I think it's best to do that after every measurement tubes or otherwise unless you are going right back to the same point in the circuit. It's actually a very easy habit to get into just like when you take high voltage measurements or are probing a high current environment always position your probe so that if it slips off the connection it does so in such a way as it doesn't short anything out. It's all in the way you apply touch pressure to your probe connection.
Aaaargggh! Don't worry about it. Most coupling caps will not be rated much over 50v, because most scope inputs can't withstand high voltages (not designed to). This is why you have a x10 probe, (also for bandwidth of course), to extend your vertical range. The probe has an average 10 million ohm impedance. Nothing is going to happen here - never has to me, and shouldn't to anyone else. Certainly there will never be 500 volts sitting on that cap...The probes are cat rated - or should be - and will be rated to a certain voltage.
@@martinda7446 I don't want to be looking at what's on a plate in an intermittent circuit and then just stab at the next grid and send a spike all the way down stream possibly "healing" the problem.
"They look at these amps like they are magic" You nailed it right on the head - we do tend to look at all of our equipment that way. We guitar players are a strange bunch sometimes.
Or simply a black box. You plug your guitar in, sound comes out. What happens inbetween is none of your business, because "your business is just to shut up and play". That's the mindset of most musicians, and for good reason IMO. Of course the analog synth guys and those kind of people don't fit in this pigeonhole, but you get my drift.
Lol whenever my old tube guitar amps start to sound especially magical, something is about to wear out. Usually a tube but sometimes resistor drift alters things just right for your playing style. I could be wrong but I think old filter caps that are slowing down or wearing out can induce a great sag effect that seems like compression. I know they need to be replaced or something bad will happen but in the meantime.... something good is happening!
I've noticed the subtle sound nuances all disappear as does any talk of playing style when a "guitarist" is instantly disrobed by handing them an acoustic guitar and some music.
@@jjo5917 Hi JJ. Yeah, something good is happening until one day........BANG! A $1000 repair bill!
Killer video from a player who has never ventured to this side of the gear. Now I see why they call these 'big iron'
An other excellent video packed full of tips and tricks. Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge.
Thought it might be worth adding that when testing transistor or valve amps, there are different considerations as to loading the speaker output.
With a transistor amp it's generally quite OK to run it with no speaker or dummy load connected, even at reasonably high signal levels. The thing that will damage a transistor amp is a short on the output, and the damage can occur literally in milliseconds. Transistors can pass high currents because they have inherently a very low internal resistance. Even if the amp still works after the short, it may have been damaged and pack-up a while later.
Since many such amps are DC-coupled, an output short with no signal can still do damage. As can shorting the output soon after de-powering if the supply caps are still charged.
A problem can arise here with certain 1/4" jacks and jack sockets, where the jack tip can ground-down momentarily as it's put in or pulled out. The momentary short this creates can do damage. A Speakon or XLR connector is preferable.
Somee people imagine that the fuse will save the output transistors. It will not. The fuse is there to prevent a fire.
On stereo amps, never parallel the two channels to the same speaker. This is effectively the same as shorting both outputs, and is very likely to do damage.
Some of the more powerful units have bridge outputs, on which both sides of the speaker have signal voltages. Therefore, never assume that you can safely ground either terminal of the speaker, for example with a scope probe shield.
A further concern is that a fault in a sold state amp can destroy the speaker by putting DC onto it. Therefore, either use a speaker you can afford to lose, or test with a series resistor (say 100 ohms) to limit the current.
With a vacuum tube amp, it's a rather different situation. Tubes have a high internal resistance, so the short-circuit current is inherently limited. An output short will generally do no damage so long as it's not sustained long enough to get the anodes red hot. Running the amp with no load at high volume though, will cause abnormally high voltages on the output transformer and tube sockets, and may cause a flashover. This is even more so if there is a faulty connection in the speaker wiring which makes and breaks. (That output transformer is basically a car ignition coil on steroids, and it will want to produce a spark if the circuit is suddenly interrupted.)
I would always take a close look at the output tube sockets, and replace any that show tracking marks around the anode pins to any nearby ground. This is usually a sign that the have arced in the past, and once the insulation is weakened they may do so again.
So, test solid state amps either unloaded or with a dummy load, but be especially careful to avoid shorts. Test vacuum tube amps with a dummy load, and beware of bad connections. In either case the dummy load need not be exactly the speaker impedance, somewhat higher resistance is better than lower though. A series resistor for your test speaker is also a useful addition, allows monitoring at low volume, and won't pass enough DC from a faulty amp to burn your speaker out.
HTH. These video bring back fond memories of my time on the audio bench. In some ways more rewarding (and less frustrating!) work than maintaining computers.
Oh, and do heed the safety warnings. They are not exaggerated. There are some truly evil voltages in guitar amps.
This rings true. It's easy enough just to put an eight(ish) ohm resistor across the output whether it's a tube or solid state amp.
@@micametalgem3721 Hi mica. I agree. Much safer to connect at least a 100 ohm or less resistor across the speaker terminals just in case. You may accidentally cause a 'blurt' by touching a test probe onto a grid with your finger touching it (hopefully not!), or something similar. This 'blurt' may be enough to damage the amp. I don't think it's worth risking a $2000 amp by simply not connecting a resistor across the speaker terminals, especially if it's someone elses amp!