Thanks man! I'm forcing myself to work on them. I need to either get over it or get good enough at them to know better. I do not expect to be repairing many optical issues but electronics problems should be okay to do. The problem is stuff like these connectors that are not meant to come apart. I swear epson is intentionally building these to not be repairable. And seriously, your comments keep me motivated. Thank you :)
@@FixitFrank Well, let's say that everything I have learned about repairing projectors I owe exclusively to you. And to be able to work on these beasts is no small treat. Keep repairing my friend, let's all keep the spark alive.
hey frank, i recently had to open up my epson and replace the main power board at the very bottom of the case. in my epson, there were 3 different flat ribbon connectors being used. i was only familiar with the most common one where you slide part of it back to unlock it. the second type i encountered I didn't figure out until I took some up-close pictures of it and noticed it said "Push" on it. Sure enough, when you press on it, it unlocks the mechanism that locks the cable in place. The last ribbon connector in use was for the 3 video connector cables. This one I got really lucky when messing around with it and it unlatched. It is a hinge type that unlocks when flipped up.
One needs a lot of patience when it comes to repairing epson projectors especially the ultra short throw ones. Certainly Frank has that. Good to see arduous effort paid off in the end.
@FixitFrank. Great video ! Amazing the way you went through the components with resilience to get to the issue. Kudos for not letting things end in the landfill. Thank you.
Hi Frank, I have this exact same model with little use, it hung from a ceiling mount and was never bothered other than to bring it down when it failed. The projector is doing pretty much the same thing as in this video, no indicator lights, and won’t power up. I got the same readings from the power ballast 12v instead of the 17v as indicated. I would like to get this repaired, what would you suggest?
Another great fix Frank! Epson, and lcd projectors in general, are much more complex then DLP, but for me (I've this exact model) colors and contrast are much more better then comparable DLP, projector, blacks are more deep and colors are more bright. I've a laser DLP too but for movies I prefer to use this Epson. When I brought it the first unit arrived to me has worked just one day, the day after when I've switched it on the power led was flashing, fan was running at maximum speed and the lamp led was red, I've tried to reinsert the lamp but didn't solved the problem, so I've repack it and send back to vendor he sent me another unit and it was and is fine, but the funny is when my unit was arrived back to vendor, he has tested it and was working! I've spent half day to work around the lamp and cover switch but nothing, the travel has solved the problem :)
Thank you Pino! I appreciate that! I am really trying to get more comfortable with LCD. I am definitely feeling more relaxed while working with them, but those flat flex cables on the LCD's still give me tons of anxiety...
Its funny, I took a break from repair when plasma hit the scene. I worked at an AV repair shop from the early 90s until the early 2000s. then not again until 2008. By then plasmas was going away and LCD/OLED was the norm. I still will work on one for friends/family but its hard to make money repairing them these days. Im sure you can in the right market but electronics are so cheap here. not enough people repair them. its a little frustrating to see.
@@FixitFrank yeah now in Italy too Is not a business anymore to work on TV, those are cheap LCD most and for plasma (I think was much Better then LCD) spare parts are not more available, expecially panels. But 10 years ago I've worked for Panasonic repair center and plasma TV was most of daily job. Those was very good TV like image quality and all parte was made in Japan not like now with the cinese trash.
Those ribbon connections are terrible, designed to be never disconnected. That's why the ribbon tracks are easily damaged when forcing the ribbon back in. You got it fixed though. That's the Pontcysylite aqueduct on the Llangollen canal, I've been over that on a narrow boat and it's weird looking over the side and a 38m (124ft) drop....yikes.
Omg I so envious!! I want to hire a narrow boat for a week or two someday and travel through the canals in the UK. Im sure you have watched or do watch David over at cruising the cut and he totally got me enamored with narrowboats. We have nothing like that here and it just seems like a perfect slow way of enjoying the countries of the UK. And as far as the connectors, I think you're right. I ended up cutting up an old one and found nothing that would latch. Just a barb like piece that would lock in the wire. Bad Epson...
@@FixitFrank It's a different pace of life that's for sure. I'm sure you will come over an do it someday. My mothers apartment has a canal directly below her balcony and the basin just a short walk away. Lots of boats in the basin are lived on full time. 👍
When I cleaned my 2150, I immediately noticed it seemed overbuilt in the wrong places. The multiple boards, controllers and metal makes it feel really nice, and the picture is good, it's just too bad the optics don't last (at least they didn't in mine). Was pretty surprised to see you work on one of these. Do you think this is the issue every time one of these series of projectors just stops powering on?
I think it's Epson and their constant effort to over engineer parts that don't matter. Drives me nuts! And yeah! I'm trying to force myself to work on more Epson. Trying to get more comfortable by becoming uncomfortable...it's equating to 50% repair and 50% waste of my time. I have a few that all need optics. So annoying.
@@FixitFrank I bought a 2150 from eBay and it has a strange green Halo/glow (worse/more obvious around text) in the upper half of the image. Is this what you're referring to about the bad optics? I took some pics and can send to you. Not sure if I have one with misaligned panel or bad optics or what. But I don't think it's caused by a bad bulb. I’m trying to decide on whether to push back on the seller or is there a simple fix?
Frank I have run into this now with a few times now, a voltage regulator 8 pin style goes bad and drops the 17v down and no response because half the board is dead.
Ahhh. That makes total sense. I have not looked at the board yet. I had kind of written it off in my head. But I know which regulators you mean so I'll check them over. Thanks so much for the insight.
@@FixitFrank This is an issue I found on two identical Epson UST classroom projectors. They were both non responsive but had a power indicator. Oddly one had two bad orange drop poly film caps in the ballast.. Not entirely sure if this could have caused the main board to go bad, but I swapped both film capacitors on both ballasts to be safe after main board repair. This issue will present itself with a no strike condition the first time powerup. The projector will retry and get it on the 2nd or 3rd try.
Hello to either you or Frank, I have an Epson 1060 I picked up cheap because it was dead. No lights. On initial testing (with mainboard removed) my power connector is all black wires and one white wire. On several of the left most wires I'm getting 5v AC, some wires are grounds, and I'm getting 12V DC. Are you familiar with the 1060 power supply? What confuses me is why I'm getting 5V AC, I'd assume I'm supposed to have 5V DC, but none of the pins are marked on the board side of the connector so I don't know what voltages are supposed to be present. I don't have any 17V, but two wires are 12VDC. Not sure if the 1060 suffers from the same 17V regulator issue but I don't see any 8 pin regulators on the board. With the mainboard plugged into the power supply and the key board and door switch connected, the 5VAC readings seem to disappear and those lines only have a few mV DC on them. I feel like there should be more coming out of the power supply than 12V. Front panel lights are all still dead.
@@shawnstthomas4811 My next question would be where on the power supply board is the 17V rail derived from? I see two K15A50D 3 pin MOSFETS that I'm thinking may have to do with it but I'm not sure. Mine has the same problem, my 17V is down to 12V. I pulled the power supply and ballast assembly out and apart to troubleshoot the power supply board.
Hi big repairman, I need your help for a benq TH681 projector. I am subscribed to your channel and I am an electronic technician, I have learned to repair projectors thanks to your videos, you are very good. I am writing from Italy and if I do not disturb I would need some advice. Thanks Mauro
@@FixitFrank Thanks, I have repaired several TH681 -TH682 and others. This latest TH681 I can't resolve. The projector starts up, makes three or four attempts to switch on and then turns on the red led of the lamp. The lamp does not light up. I have almost all the components to do tests, I was thinking about the defective color wheel and I replaced it but nothing, I tried to replace the lamp but nothing, I tried the replacement of the ballast but nothing, I measured the voltages on the mainboard and the regulators are at place. I plugged in oscilloscope to see if there is square wave on the CW amplifier chip and the square wave shows well. All the fans are running and I'm picking up the tacho square waves. I checked lamp connections, cables etc ... but everything is OK. Could it be a corrupt or blocked firmware that does not turn the lamp on and start the Benq? The symptoms are those of the faulty CW but it is not faulty ... I am unfortunately stopped. Thanks for your kindness.
Check to see if you have 380v dc feeding the power input to the ballast. It sort of sounds like a ballast/PFC (power factor correction) issue. If the ballast is not getting all 380v(like if its getting 150v or 300v depending on your line voltage) then it won't fire the lamp. It will still run the lower voltage stuff though.
@@FixitFrank Thanks you are very kind, yes the input ballast voltage is 382-383 volts regular. I put a video here if you have time you could take a look. Thanks again. ua-cam.com/video/5RVMkcx_eHw/v-deo.html
@@FixitFrank I put a new video per TH681 benq , on my suspicions of the lamp not turning on. I would like to know what you think. Thanks Mauro ua-cam.com/video/l19kq9h5I54/v-deo.html
ugh. I say that towards epson not you. They are terrible about part numbers and everything. Literally the worst. I dont even use the part numbers anymore. I just contact my vendor with the part description and the model and they figure it out. Gydz@timeprojectorlamp.com is who I use. They ship from China and use DHL so itll go worldwide. But make sure your optics are good. If they are bad, replacing the mainboard will be a waste of your time and money.
@FixitFrank, i was wondering if there is any fuse at all that is build into the projector? And if not if you could pinpoint me to were i could buy a power supply replacement since i seem to have the very same problem with my projector that is also a 2150 (but in sweden they call it a 5650 model). I would appreciate it alot if u could help a brother out :-)
there is. Its in the mains power supply if i remember right. however I seem to recall these having more issues with the mainboard. I'd check to see if you have any low voltage from the power supply to the mainboard. There should be 17v, 3ish and 5ish volts. They feed in that large multi cable wire. if you read voltage there, its more than likely the mainboard. There are some 8 pin voltage regulators on the mainboard that are allegedly known for problems.
Its almost impossible. Epson won't sell them. Your only option is a used/pull(removed from a working projector). I will warn you though. It will likely be $4-500 and the optics of the 2150 are getting old and the coating that epson uses will start to degrade soon and that will make the projector unrepairable. As much as I like people to repair their devices, I would put your money towards a new projector. Repairing the 2150 will turn into a money pit.
Don't waste your money. Its not remotely worth it. Epson has been building garbage and lying about it for a bit now. They pretend its high quality when in reality its built to break. The only way to get a mainboard is from a used projector and they will cost $500-600 plus shipping. Epson won't sell you one and if you take it to an epson repair place, they will want double the cost of the projector to "repair" it. Then they will offer you a deal on a used/refurb that will fail soon. My serious advice. Cut your losses and don't ever buy an epson projector in the future. If you like LCD, buy Panasonic, NEC, or look at LCoS models like Sony and JVC. Epson has top tier marketing and bottom tier manufacturing. I'm not a fan of epson, can you tell?
ya i did'nt buy this one it came with the house i bought worked well till about a month ago guess i will look into the other ones you mentioned thank you for the reply
Hey Frank, I recently picked up an Epson EX9220, upon the first attempt to power it up, it went through the startup and all the fans turned on, but the bulb wouldn't light and then it kicked into an error mode where the status light would blink blue and he lamp light would blink orange. I used by multimeter to check the plug to the lamp and found that there was no power there. I have had the power supply out and have tested the mosfets like you have with other power supplies, but couldn't detect an issue. It seems that the ballast just won't power up and send voltage to the bulb. Maybe it's the ballast or maybe it's the main board causing the problem. Not sure if you've seen that type of error from the Epson projectors or not, but any advice would be appreciated. Also if it needs a new main board or power supply, and reference on a place to buy the parts from would be great. Thanks.
Id chase down what the error LEDs are telling you. If its saying a lamp error, check the power to the ballast. It should have 380vdc feeding the ballast. also check the iris assembly and the cinema filter(if it has one). Things have to start up in the right order or the lamp wont be fired. I doubt its a ballast problem. That is fairly uncommon in Epson. I'd lean more towards something keeping the ballast from firing. If you dont have the Lamp_on signal to the ballast(from the ballast control wire) then its something else keeping the lamp from starting.
@@FixitFrank The error LED's are giving me the Flashing Blue Status light and Flashing Orange Lamp Light. The Epson status code document says this means: "Internal projector error, turn the projector off, unplug it, and contact Epson for help." So that's not real helpful, ha. How do I locate the cinema filter or determine if it has one? Also do you have a recommended test for the Auto Iris to determine if that is an issue? It definitely seems like the it's stuck in a loop where the signal to fire the ballast and turn on the lamp is getting interrupted. Thanks for the feedback so far, I appreciate it.
@@ChrisMikkelson-ms6gl I have same problem whit epson- tw5650. I check auto Iris, like as Frank says, but it is ok. I think motherbord don't send signal to the balast. Did you found somthing else. I like PJ but it's fail, just half year afther guаranteе.
@@kostadindemirov5019 I did some testing and used another working Epson projector to test components of the non-working projector and all of them are good. The auto iris, power supply, fans and sensors function when swapped into the other projector it works as it did with it's original parts. So it seems that my main board is bad in my EX9220 and since I don't know how to determine what piece/circuit is bad, I ordered a new one. It won't arrive to me for about a month, but when I get it, I will put it in and hopefully it will solve my issue. I will report back if my projector works after the main board swap.
I'm trying! Epson is weird. I can't always get parts and some repairs are not cost effective. But I have committed to trying to repair more epsons. Thanks for letting me know 🙂
Yes is nearly equal, this one into video is labeled TW5650 in Europe and respect to TW5600 has just wifi enclosed and different air filter. Disassembly is equal, just you don't have the wifi board you see into this video.
@@pinomauro2426 Thank you, i hope that my TW5600 will work forever, but you have to be always prepared for problems :). Anyone else seeing flickering on the TW5* series?
@FixitFrank - I have the same unit that appears to be doing the same thing. One day it worked the next day nothing. The WLAN is lighting up but that's it. I'd like to try to replace the mainboard as you did. How can I find the proper part number/name for the unit? I'm having a hard time figuring out what to order.
You wont be able to get it from Epson. they are a nightmare to get parts through. I have a contact in China I use for used/good and new parts. I should warn you. that board will be around $500. I wouldn't put the money into it personally. The 2150 is great when it works, but once it fails they are awful to deal with. I had a scrap 2150 with a good mainboard(the optics were bad). That might be a better option. Buy a used projector with bad optics(color blob in the image is common). Otherwise, I'd put that money towards a new projector. It seems that a lot of 2150s are failing this year. If you want to check with my source, email gydz@timeprojectorlamp.com and let them know I referred you. Also, I don't know if you prefer LCD, but I am selling my own BenQ HT1075 (DLP) with very low hours. I'll list it on the community page. good luck!
@@FixitFrank Seems to be my luck. Any suggestions for a replacement or where to read up? There are so many options out there. The 2150 was great for the four years I had it.
@@FixitFrank i'm working on a 2150 atm that turns on and the lamp only comes on for about a second then the lamp indicator turns orange blinking i already put a new epson lamp in but same problem i poked around in the psu and checked the ballast mosfets which seem to be ok but i did find a STF4LN80K5 in the psu that tests as a diode instead of a mosfet so i ordered a new genuine ST one from arrow any suggestions?
@@FixitFrank The light comes on for 1 second then blue power light blinks and lamp light blinks orange the power supply seems to be ok i checked all components i have to check again if the blue power light stays blinking after i put it back together
@@FixitFrank ok so i put it back together and fired it up lamp comes on for 2-3 seconds then wlan light comes on then power and lamp are flashing together i'm not quiet sure which the iris motor is i assume its that tiny motor on the back that has a light sensor next to it also the fans go into high gear when the lamp light starts blinking
Always a treat to see a unit saved from the scrap pile. And there I thought you give no love to the EPSONs!!!!!
Thanks man! I'm forcing myself to work on them. I need to either get over it or get good enough at them to know better. I do not expect to be repairing many optical issues but electronics problems should be okay to do. The problem is stuff like these connectors that are not meant to come apart. I swear epson is intentionally building these to not be repairable. And seriously, your comments keep me motivated. Thank you :)
@@FixitFrank Well, let's say that everything I have learned about repairing projectors I owe exclusively to you. And to be able to work on these beasts is no small treat. Keep repairing my friend, let's all keep the spark alive.
hey frank, i recently had to open up my epson and replace the main power board at the very bottom of the case. in my epson, there were 3 different flat ribbon connectors being used. i was only familiar with the most common one where you slide part of it back to unlock it. the second type i encountered I didn't figure out until I took some up-close pictures of it and noticed it said "Push" on it. Sure enough, when you press on it, it unlocks the mechanism that locks the cable in place. The last ribbon connector in use was for the 3 video connector cables. This one I got really lucky when messing around with it and it unlatched. It is a hinge type that unlocks when flipped up.
Another amazing fix Frank! Truly enjoy watching your videos! I think that's a great idea getting projectors off eBay and fixing them.
Thanks so much Todd! I appreciate that
One needs a lot of patience when it comes to repairing epson projectors especially the ultra short throw ones. Certainly Frank has that. Good to see arduous effort paid off in the end.
Thanks brother 😀 hope things are well, I've been referring some folks on Reddit your way.
Cheers Frank. That's greatly appreciated. Wish you The best.
@FixitFrank. Great video ! Amazing the way you went through the components with resilience to get to the issue. Kudos for not letting things end in the landfill. Thank you.
I appreciate that very much. Thank you again for watching!
Still enjoying my Acer DLP. Just picked up a Klipsch subwoofer to complete my theater.👍
Hi Frank, I have this exact same model with little use, it hung from a ceiling mount and was never bothered other than to bring it down when it failed. The projector is doing pretty much the same thing as in this video, no indicator lights, and won’t power up. I got the same readings from the power ballast 12v instead of the 17v as indicated. I would like to get this repaired, what would you suggest?
Hello Frank. New subscriber. Great Channel, drain cleaning Australia sent me 😎
Thanks for checking out the channel Rob! I really appreciate it! Bruce is a great guy and I love his stuff.
Another great fix Frank! Epson, and lcd projectors in general, are much more complex then DLP, but for me (I've this exact model) colors and contrast are much more better then comparable DLP, projector, blacks are more deep and colors are more bright. I've a laser DLP too but for movies I prefer to use this Epson.
When I brought it the first unit arrived to me has worked just one day, the day after when I've switched it on the power led was flashing, fan was running at maximum speed and the lamp led was red, I've tried to reinsert the lamp but didn't solved the problem, so I've repack it and send back to vendor he sent me another unit and it was and is fine, but the funny is when my unit was arrived back to vendor, he has tested it and was working! I've spent half day to work around the lamp and cover switch but nothing, the travel has solved the problem :)
Thank you Pino! I appreciate that! I am really trying to get more comfortable with LCD. I am definitely feeling more relaxed while working with them, but those flat flex cables on the LCD's still give me tons of anxiety...
@@FixitFrank I know I've had same feeling when started to work on plasma TV, those has alot of flat cables like the LCD matrix projectors.
Its funny, I took a break from repair when plasma hit the scene. I worked at an AV repair shop from the early 90s until the early 2000s. then not again until 2008. By then plasmas was going away and LCD/OLED was the norm. I still will work on one for friends/family but its hard to make money repairing them these days. Im sure you can in the right market but electronics are so cheap here. not enough people repair them. its a little frustrating to see.
@@FixitFrank yeah now in Italy too Is not a business anymore to work on TV, those are cheap LCD most and for plasma (I think was much Better then LCD) spare parts are not more available, expecially panels. But 10 years ago I've worked for Panasonic repair center and plasma TV was most of daily job. Those was very good TV like image quality and all parte was made in Japan not like now with the cinese trash.
where can i get the main board at i also have same issue wifi light on no power same projector 2150 thanks
Those ribbon connections are terrible, designed to be never disconnected. That's why the ribbon tracks are easily damaged when forcing the ribbon back in. You got it fixed though. That's the Pontcysylite aqueduct on the Llangollen canal, I've been over that on a narrow boat and it's weird looking over the side and a 38m (124ft) drop....yikes.
Omg I so envious!! I want to hire a narrow boat for a week or two someday and travel through the canals in the UK. Im sure you have watched or do watch David over at cruising the cut and he totally got me enamored with narrowboats. We have nothing like that here and it just seems like a perfect slow way of enjoying the countries of the UK.
And as far as the connectors, I think you're right. I ended up cutting up an old one and found nothing that would latch. Just a barb like piece that would lock in the wire. Bad Epson...
@@FixitFrank It's a different pace of life that's for sure. I'm sure you will come over an do it someday. My mothers apartment has a canal directly below her balcony and the basin just a short walk away. Lots of boats in the basin are lived on full time. 👍
When I cleaned my 2150, I immediately noticed it seemed overbuilt in the wrong places. The multiple boards, controllers and metal makes it feel really nice, and the picture is good, it's just too bad the optics don't last (at least they didn't in mine). Was pretty surprised to see you work on one of these. Do you think this is the issue every time one of these series of projectors just stops powering on?
I think it's Epson and their constant effort to over engineer parts that don't matter. Drives me nuts!
And yeah! I'm trying to force myself to work on more Epson. Trying to get more comfortable by becoming uncomfortable...it's equating to 50% repair and 50% waste of my time. I have a few that all need optics. So annoying.
@@FixitFrank I bought a 2150 from eBay and it has a strange green Halo/glow (worse/more obvious around text) in the upper half of the image. Is this what you're referring to about the bad optics? I took some pics and can send to you. Not sure if I have one with misaligned panel or bad optics or what. But I don't think it's caused by a bad bulb.
I’m trying to decide on whether to push back on the seller or is there a simple fix?
Frank I have run into this now with a few times now, a voltage regulator 8 pin style goes bad and drops the 17v down and no response because half the board is dead.
Ahhh. That makes total sense. I have not looked at the board yet. I had kind of written it off in my head. But I know which regulators you mean so I'll check them over. Thanks so much for the insight.
@@FixitFrank This is an issue I found on two identical Epson UST classroom projectors. They were both non responsive but had a power indicator. Oddly one had two bad orange drop poly film caps in the ballast.. Not entirely sure if this could have caused the main board to go bad, but I swapped both film capacitors on both ballasts to be safe after main board repair. This issue will present itself with a no strike condition the first time powerup. The projector will retry and get it on the 2nd or 3rd try.
Hello to either you or Frank, I have an Epson 1060 I picked up cheap because it was dead. No lights. On initial testing (with mainboard removed) my power connector is all black wires and one white wire. On several of the left most wires I'm getting 5v AC, some wires are grounds, and I'm getting 12V DC. Are you familiar with the 1060 power supply? What confuses me is why I'm getting 5V AC, I'd assume I'm supposed to have 5V DC, but none of the pins are marked on the board side of the connector so I don't know what voltages are supposed to be present. I don't have any 17V, but two wires are 12VDC. Not sure if the 1060 suffers from the same 17V regulator issue but I don't see any 8 pin regulators on the board.
With the mainboard plugged into the power supply and the key board and door switch connected, the 5VAC readings seem to disappear and those lines only have a few mV DC on them. I feel like there should be more coming out of the power supply than 12V. Front panel lights are all still dead.
Just pulled the power supply, mine is supposed to be 17V but is reading 12. I'm thinking a regulator.
@@shawnstthomas4811 My next question would be where on the power supply board is the 17V rail derived from? I see two K15A50D 3 pin MOSFETS that I'm thinking may have to do with it but I'm not sure. Mine has the same problem, my 17V is down to 12V. I pulled the power supply and ballast assembly out and apart to troubleshoot the power supply board.
Hi big repairman, I need your help for a benq TH681 projector. I am subscribed to your channel and I am an electronic technician, I have learned to repair projectors thanks to your videos, you are very good. I am writing from Italy and if I do not disturb I would need some advice. Thanks Mauro
You're welcome! I'm humbled to hear my videos helped you get into projector repair. I appreciate the kind words. What is the th681 not doing?
@@FixitFrank Thanks, I have repaired several TH681 -TH682 and others. This latest TH681 I can't resolve. The projector starts up, makes three or four attempts to switch on and then turns on the red led of the lamp. The lamp does not light up. I have almost all the components to do tests, I was thinking about the defective color wheel and I replaced it but nothing, I tried to replace the lamp but nothing, I tried the replacement of the ballast but nothing, I measured the voltages on the mainboard and the regulators are at place. I plugged in oscilloscope to see if there is square wave on the CW amplifier chip and the square wave shows well. All the fans are running and I'm picking up the tacho square waves. I checked lamp connections, cables etc ... but everything is OK. Could it be a corrupt or blocked firmware that does not turn the lamp on and start the Benq? The symptoms are those of the faulty CW but it is not faulty ... I am unfortunately stopped. Thanks for your kindness.
Check to see if you have 380v dc feeding the power input to the ballast. It sort of sounds like a ballast/PFC (power factor correction) issue. If the ballast is not getting all 380v(like if its getting 150v or 300v depending on your line voltage) then it won't fire the lamp. It will still run the lower voltage stuff though.
@@FixitFrank Thanks you are very kind, yes the input ballast voltage is 382-383 volts regular. I put a video here if you have time you could take a look. Thanks again.
ua-cam.com/video/5RVMkcx_eHw/v-deo.html
@@FixitFrank I put a new video per TH681 benq , on my suspicions of the lamp not turning on. I would like to know what you think. Thanks Mauro
ua-cam.com/video/l19kq9h5I54/v-deo.html
Thanks! How do I find the part #? 10 mns on Google didn't find anything
ugh. I say that towards epson not you. They are terrible about part numbers and everything. Literally the worst. I dont even use the part numbers anymore. I just contact my vendor with the part description and the model and they figure it out. Gydz@timeprojectorlamp.com is who I use. They ship from China and use DHL so itll go worldwide.
But make sure your optics are good. If they are bad, replacing the mainboard will be a waste of your time and money.
Right lad's here is a power supply for a new 2150 lcd
Build us a projector around it that's Frank proof 😂
@FixitFrank, i was wondering if there is any fuse at all that is build into the projector? And if not if you could pinpoint me to were i could buy a power supply replacement since i seem to have the very same problem with my projector that is also a 2150 (but in sweden they call it a 5650 model). I would appreciate it alot if u could help a brother out :-)
there is. Its in the mains power supply if i remember right. however I seem to recall these having more issues with the mainboard. I'd check to see if you have any low voltage from the power supply to the mainboard. There should be 17v, 3ish and 5ish volts. They feed in that large multi cable wire. if you read voltage there, its more than likely the mainboard. There are some 8 pin voltage regulators on the mainboard that are allegedly known for problems.
Where can I get a new mainboard?
Its almost impossible. Epson won't sell them. Your only option is a used/pull(removed from a working projector). I will warn you though. It will likely be $4-500 and the optics of the 2150 are getting old and the coating that epson uses will start to degrade soon and that will make the projector unrepairable. As much as I like people to repair their devices, I would put your money towards a new projector. Repairing the 2150 will turn into a money pit.
where can i get the main board at my 2150 is doing the same thing wifi light on no power .thanks
Don't waste your money. Its not remotely worth it. Epson has been building garbage and lying about it for a bit now. They pretend its high quality when in reality its built to break. The only way to get a mainboard is from a used projector and they will cost $500-600 plus shipping. Epson won't sell you one and if you take it to an epson repair place, they will want double the cost of the projector to "repair" it. Then they will offer you a deal on a used/refurb that will fail soon. My serious advice. Cut your losses and don't ever buy an epson projector in the future. If you like LCD, buy Panasonic, NEC, or look at LCoS models like Sony and JVC. Epson has top tier marketing and bottom tier manufacturing. I'm not a fan of epson, can you tell?
ya i did'nt buy this one it came with the house i bought worked well till about a month ago guess i will look into the other ones you mentioned thank you for the reply
Hey Frank, I recently picked up an Epson EX9220, upon the first attempt to power it up, it went through the startup and all the fans turned on, but the bulb wouldn't light and then it kicked into an error mode where the status light would blink blue and he lamp light would blink orange. I used by multimeter to check the plug to the lamp and found that there was no power there. I have had the power supply out and have tested the mosfets like you have with other power supplies, but couldn't detect an issue. It seems that the ballast just won't power up and send voltage to the bulb. Maybe it's the ballast or maybe it's the main board causing the problem. Not sure if you've seen that type of error from the Epson projectors or not, but any advice would be appreciated. Also if it needs a new main board or power supply, and reference on a place to buy the parts from would be great. Thanks.
Id chase down what the error LEDs are telling you. If its saying a lamp error, check the power to the ballast. It should have 380vdc feeding the ballast. also check the iris assembly and the cinema filter(if it has one). Things have to start up in the right order or the lamp wont be fired. I doubt its a ballast problem. That is fairly uncommon in Epson. I'd lean more towards something keeping the ballast from firing. If you dont have the Lamp_on signal to the ballast(from the ballast control wire) then its something else keeping the lamp from starting.
@@FixitFrank The error LED's are giving me the Flashing Blue Status light and Flashing Orange Lamp Light. The Epson status code document says this means: "Internal projector error, turn the projector off, unplug it, and contact Epson for help." So that's not real helpful, ha. How do I locate the cinema filter or determine if it has one? Also do you have a recommended test for the Auto Iris to determine if that is an issue? It definitely seems like the it's stuck in a loop where the signal to fire the ballast and turn on the lamp is getting interrupted. Thanks for the feedback so far, I appreciate it.
@@ChrisMikkelson-ms6gl I have same problem whit epson- tw5650. I check auto Iris, like as Frank says, but it is ok. I think motherbord don't send signal to the balast. Did you found somthing else. I like PJ but it's fail, just half year afther guаranteе.
@@kostadindemirov5019 I did some testing and used another working Epson projector to test components of the non-working projector and all of them are good. The auto iris, power supply, fans and sensors function when swapped into the other projector it works as it did with it's original parts. So it seems that my main board is bad in my EX9220 and since I don't know how to determine what piece/circuit is bad, I ordered a new one. It won't arrive to me for about a month, but when I get it, I will put it in and hopefully it will solve my issue. I will report back if my projector works after the main board swap.
Thank you very much, i have a TW5600 i assume i can disassemble it the same way (when needed).
And please more Epson TW repairs :) .
I'm trying! Epson is weird. I can't always get parts and some repairs are not cost effective. But I have committed to trying to repair more epsons. Thanks for letting me know 🙂
@@FixitFrank Thank you mate :)
Yes is nearly equal, this one into video is labeled TW5650 in Europe and respect to TW5600 has just wifi enclosed and different air filter. Disassembly is equal, just you don't have the wifi board you see into this video.
@@pinomauro2426 Thank you, i hope that my TW5600 will work forever, but you have to be always prepared for problems :). Anyone else seeing flickering on the TW5* series?
@FixitFrank - I have the same unit that appears to be doing the same thing. One day it worked the next day nothing. The WLAN is lighting up but that's it. I'd like to try to replace the mainboard as you did. How can I find the proper part number/name for the unit? I'm having a hard time figuring out what to order.
You wont be able to get it from Epson. they are a nightmare to get parts through. I have a contact in China I use for used/good and new parts. I should warn you. that board will be around $500. I wouldn't put the money into it personally. The 2150 is great when it works, but once it fails they are awful to deal with. I had a scrap 2150 with a good mainboard(the optics were bad). That might be a better option. Buy a used projector with bad optics(color blob in the image is common). Otherwise, I'd put that money towards a new projector. It seems that a lot of 2150s are failing this year. If you want to check with my source, email gydz@timeprojectorlamp.com and let them know I referred you. Also, I don't know if you prefer LCD, but I am selling my own BenQ HT1075 (DLP) with very low hours. I'll list it on the community page. good luck!
@@FixitFrank Seems to be my luck. Any suggestions for a replacement or where to read up? There are so many options out there. The 2150 was great for the four years I had it.
These ribbon connectors are easy to disconnect just push down on the top middle metal part and the ribbon slides right out without damaging anything
That is what I expected but it didnt seem to be the case. I'll check again tomorrow since I have a board still.
@@FixitFrank i'm working on a 2150 atm that turns on and the lamp only comes on for about a second then the lamp indicator turns orange blinking i already put a new epson lamp in but same problem i poked around in the psu and checked the ballast mosfets which seem to be ok but i did find a STF4LN80K5 in the psu that tests as a diode instead of a mosfet so i ordered a new genuine ST one from arrow
any suggestions?
I bet the power supply is okay. Check the iris motor and iris assembly. Is only the lamp led flashing when it fails?
@@FixitFrank The light comes on for 1 second then blue power light blinks and lamp light blinks orange the power supply seems to be ok i checked all components i have to check again if the blue power light stays blinking after i put it back together
@@FixitFrank ok so i put it back together and fired it up lamp comes on for 2-3 seconds then wlan light comes on then power and lamp are flashing together
i'm not quiet sure which the iris motor is i assume its that tiny motor on the back that has a light sensor next to it also the fans go into high gear when the lamp light starts blinking