So glad you addressed the thermostat housing. This was the bane of my existence with my ranger until I finally just got an alluminum one. The fact they didn't test this enough to know that under normal use the housing will frequently warp and break down is infuriating. One of my biggest gripes about newer cars using so much plastic based parts.
I'm surprised she didn't mention timing chain tensioners. Part of the fix for the startup rattle on 05 and up 4.0l engines is to replace two timing chain tensioners that leak down when the engine is not running and take a moment to pump up and put tension on the chain. Not a huge deal, can be done in a couple hours, and a lot better than have a chain jump timing if they get real bad.
Timing chain guides failed on my 4.0 2005 Ford Ranger FX4 Off Road. Ended up just putting a brand new Jasper engine in it with a 3 year 100,000 miles. Well worth it.
Yyyyep. I can attest to every problem here, and several others. My '04 Ranger had all of them. 8866.61$ later, I have a reman Jasper engine and new clutch. Great truck though. Absolutely must take care of them if you want it to last 200k+ like a lot of owners talk about. Your videos were invaluable to me during what repairs I handled myself. Thank you!
+Calum Rife Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I just put a brand new Jasper in my 2005 Ford Ranger FX4. Timing chain guides failed at 198,000 miles. I’ve got 200,000 miles on the truck now and it still looks like new.
Hey! You jinxed my Ranger! 2 days after I watched your video, my thermo housing started leaking. *grins* Ah, well. I just bought the aluminum one you have on your parts site. *smiles*
Almost all the issues I've seen covered on the ranger involve the 4.0 engine, but to my thinking the biggest single engineering fail is the timing system and the need to basically pull the engine to do a simple chain guide replacement. All the extra work just to utilize one head for either side instead of left and right. I own an 08 with the 3.0 and at 160 k it hasn't had any of the problems common to the model. Very reliable, solid truck that'll do anything asked of it within reason. The somewhat anemic HP can be remedied to some degree with cold air intake and tuned exhaust, and they respond fairly well to chip tuning. It'll never be a drifter, but it wasn't intended to be, but these upgrades will wake up the three and make it fun to drive
Yes! Thank you for mentioning the thermostat housing such a major problem with this engine and yes they do finally make a cast aluminum part now which is awesome my 4.0 lasted 300k before o sold it
My Synchronizer on a 3.0 was chirping and causing the engine to stall when decelerating or starting to accelerate from a stop. Replaced with OE and used old Ford sensor (since they are sold separately). No problems in 20 thousand miles, when they are going bad it can be a big safety hazard and you just shouldn't live with the chirping.
You have some incorrect information that is pretty serious at 1:12 mark. The Cologne 4.0 V6 is an INTERFERENCE engine! The "death rattle" will cause bent valves and heads if the timing chains are neglected in the 1997-2002 years. You guys really need to correct this, very serious misinformation you gave out. Only the 4.0 V6 OHV is an NON-interference engine.
@@1AAuto well you need to correct this error. You guys are going to have people thinking that their truck will survive bad timing when it won’t! Why put out incorrect information?
Filled my 2003 SOHC with water going upstream. Took apart the engine, emptied the water out, and it's already gone a few thousand miles as strong as ever. Sounds a little different.
Real easy, Yeah! 2003 4.0L Ranger thermostat replacement.. $8.00 part three simple bolts right? The part they don't tell you is you have to remove the whole intake to remove those three simple bolts. My next project 2003 3.0L PCV replacement with that stupid long plastic tube attached. Same thing Intake removal for what should be a simple plug N play procedure.
These are great trucks but the timing chain setup on the 4.0 OHC is a complete nightmare! Ford should’ve just left the 4.0 alone or developed a new engine that was designed as OHC from the get go
I’m looking at a 2012 with 22000 miles on it tomorrow, my neighbor died about 6 years ago and the truck has been sitting in the driveway ever since, anything specific I should be looking for? They start it every 4/ 6 months but they don’t drive it,it’s sitting on asphalt so hopefully the bottom and the brake fuel lines and transmission lines are not all rotted,it’s a 4.0 v6 4x4 with the small rear door cab I think it’s 6’ bed
I had mine go out 4 times before I finally got tired of changing it. Look it up on ebay: Ford Ranger 4.0 aluminum thermostat housing with your model year. Before you buy check to see if you have 1 or 2 coolant temperature sensors. It’s about 4-5 hour job and you can look up vids on YT how to do it.
01 4.0 over 200.000 + miles pumps housing alternators ip1 trans break lines runs great cheaper to fix then new 23 years old 4x4 works still AC great heat great love it looks great
Your video guy needs to show where the problem part is and where to find it, rather than your lovely face. Thanks, I own a 99 3.0L with 243K on the engine clock. Runs like a charm.
Thank you. You have a new sub. Recently bought a 99 4.0 one owner well maintained. It has cel shows as a o2 sensor lean condition. I've had hard start issues when I leave it sit for a week or two? Cheers
My 03 auto 2wd 4.0 ranger stalls in reverse but only when warm. Sits in 1st gear at a stoplight just fine. It had a vacuum leak but I fixed that. Replaced the tps, cleaned the air intake valve, but it only happens in reverse.. I'm stumped. Crankshaft sensor replaced also.
+@fastwaterpw We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Could really do with a more close up view of the IAC part of the video. That's a problem with my 2001 explorer, the idle revs go up and down and cuts out etc. Thought it was maybe the throttle position sensor?
@@1AAuto i just felt that when you were talking about the part the camera was showing the person more than the actual parts being talked about.. Would be best to have a sequence of the person talking, pointing to where the part is in relation to the engine, then zoom in to the actual part and it's surroundings close up to get a good view of it, but knowing where it is in the engine.. Thanks it really helped i cleaned the IAC valve and it's a lot better but the revs still suddenly drop and the car stalls, seems to run better when i take one of the tubes out of the air intake so it can just suck air into the engine with no filter in the way so I've ordered a new filter in case that is choking the air supply. Might be a maf sensor problem. The revs are much more stable now though after i cleaned the IAC with some electrical contact cleaner and some cotton buds. Thanks again for the advice on how to fix cars, i really hope karma rewards you well for that as i really can't afford to go to a garage to get it done.
Had a pile of these 2001-11 at work every one blew the auto tranny in the 3.0 and most blewr engine. I had a manual the trannyvwas tough but the 3.0 popped at 123k mi.
Okay my tooth at my 1998 Ford ranger and four cylinder in it okay somebody put something in the oil and made the oil pump not work now the oil pumps working after I cleaned it all out in the motor but now it's lifters are tapping I guess at the top making loud noise clattering and I need to know how to fix that
Getting ready to turn 300,000 98 4.0 only thing changed, oil, rear and front trans axle fluids at 100,000. serpentine belt, alt., headlight bulbs, wiper blades, auto. fluid and filter. egr valve, pvc valve. 4x4 air hose. That's it runs like new! Runs like the energizer bunny on new batteries! (Glen).
'98 Ranger XLT 2.5L, 5spd. Idles high when driving & shifting until I come to a complete stop 0mph. At a complete stop idle drops down to normal. Have replaced IAC Twice part #AC117 Standard Motor Part. RABS has been changed along with TPS, EGR VALVE & EGR SENSOR, DPFE, new catalytic converter & 02 sensors, MAF sensor, throttle body cleaned. Have disconnected IAC, one time it stayed low(normal) and drove fine, one time there was no change at all. I don't believe it is a vacuum leak because it is not consistent. I have checked all vacuum lines and hoses, with the exception of the Evap Vent sensor and the big hose from that to the canaster. Does the PCM need to be recalibrated/reset with proper perameters? I've reset several times with and without code scanner. If and when engine light comes on the code is 1506 IAC Valve. How big of a hammer should I use to fix this issue?
I don't know if this will help; disconnect the battery for like 20 minutes. Reconnect. With all air/ac OFF, no wipers, radio, anything at all - start the truck and let idle for a full 2 minutes. After the first 2 minutes have passed, turn the heat option all the way up, and the fans on just below max AND THEN turn the air options to max a/c and let idle another 2 full Minutes. Once done, turn the air back OFF and let idle under no load for about 30 seconds. Turn the car off. Next time you start the truck, you should be stable(er). Or not. It works on my 2003 SOHC 4l EDiT: i also have a 5spd manual. Have also filled engine with water and its still fine apparently. I definitely did this trick rebuilding the engine lol i do think it helps though
Aye, she does say that. The main reason for the need to remove is because it has 3 chains total. One to each cam, and one small one on the crank. Due to how they made the chain system, one of them is on the rear of the engine so requires pulling it to get to it.
When have timing chainnoise 2. Point why. Need use 10w40.oil. orchange two. 15w40. Bneed use motorcraft oil filer they have check.val in oil filter . Keep losen prime .won't lose prime in oil filter . They have time chain tensioner. Heavy oil tight on chain. If have rear main oilleave because rear main bearingcap has under size clearnance blow . Bypass rear crankshaft bear. Thenreplace seal too solve leakes .rear main bear. &seal. Solve remain oil leak.
Most of this is not relevant to the 4.0 OHV that was in the 98 to 00 Ranger. They ruined that engine when they made an overhead cam engine out of a design that was never meant to be that way
The Synchronizer drives the oil pump the chirp is more than just annoying. If it seizes up or if the gear that drives it off the cam breaks your oil pressure will drop to 0 and the engine can lock up.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
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So glad you addressed the thermostat housing. This was the bane of my existence with my ranger until I finally just got an alluminum one. The fact they didn't test this enough to know that under normal use the housing will frequently warp and break down is infuriating. One of my biggest gripes about newer cars using so much plastic based parts.
This lady is amazing. She knows her stuff and more. The extra details she throws in are great.
I'm surprised she didn't mention timing chain tensioners. Part of the fix for the startup rattle on 05 and up 4.0l engines is to replace two timing chain tensioners that leak down when the engine is not running and take a moment to pump up and put tension on the chain. Not a huge deal, can be done in a couple hours, and a lot better than have a chain jump timing if they get real bad.
couple of hours? you have to take OUT the engine on the 4.0 to get to them, because you have to do front AND back tensioners
Timing chain guides failed on my 4.0 2005 Ford Ranger FX4 Off Road. Ended up just putting a brand new Jasper engine in it with a 3 year 100,000 miles. Well worth it.
@@Ornelas11B where did you purchase this?
Yyyyep. I can attest to every problem here, and several others. My '04 Ranger had all of them. 8866.61$ later, I have a reman Jasper engine and new clutch. Great truck though. Absolutely must take care of them if you want it to last 200k+ like a lot of owners talk about.
Your videos were invaluable to me during what repairs I handled myself. Thank you!
+Calum Rife Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I just put a brand new Jasper in my 2005 Ford Ranger FX4. Timing chain guides failed at 198,000 miles. I’ve got 200,000 miles on the truck now and it still looks like new.
Pcv valve deserves a mention.
Great useful info. Presenter knowledgeable and clear. I have a 2001 with stalling issue, now i know where to start looking.
Great info...2009 Ford Ranger owner...Love the truck...Want to keep it forever..
+chris kowalski Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Hey! You jinxed my Ranger! 2 days after I watched your video, my thermo housing started leaking. *grins*
Ah, well. I just bought the aluminum one you have on your parts site. *smiles*
Almost all the issues I've seen covered on the ranger involve the 4.0 engine, but to my thinking the biggest single engineering fail is the timing system and the need to basically pull the engine to do a simple chain guide replacement. All the extra work just to utilize one head for either side instead of left and right. I own an 08 with the 3.0 and at 160 k it hasn't had any of the problems common to the model. Very reliable, solid truck that'll do anything asked of it within reason. The somewhat anemic HP can be remedied to some degree with cold air intake and tuned exhaust, and they respond fairly well to chip tuning. It'll never be a drifter, but it wasn't intended to be, but these upgrades will wake up the three and make it fun to drive
Yes! Thank you for mentioning the thermostat housing such a major problem with this engine and yes they do finally make a cast aluminum part now which is awesome my 4.0 lasted 300k before o sold it
What year?
Go on ebay and you can find the all aluminum housing she is taking about. Easy fix and never have leaks again.
I had a 98 ranger 4.0
Had 396000 before main crank bearing went.
I had alot of idle air control issues had to replace a number of times
But this is the 4.0 these videos don’t apply to the other ranger engines like the 3.0 and 2..3
She is right about the timing rattling sound...my 01 does it
Have you had to replace it yet?
My Synchronizer on a 3.0 was chirping and causing the engine to stall when decelerating or starting to accelerate from a stop. Replaced with OE and used old Ford sensor (since they are sold separately). No problems in 20 thousand miles, when they are going bad it can be a big safety hazard and you just shouldn't live with the chirping.
+Jerome Thanks for the feedback!
Do u have a link where u got them from ?
You have some incorrect information that is pretty serious at 1:12 mark. The Cologne 4.0 V6 is an INTERFERENCE engine! The "death rattle" will cause bent valves and heads if the timing chains are neglected in the 1997-2002 years. You guys really need to correct this, very serious misinformation you gave out.
Only the 4.0 V6 OHV is an NON-interference engine.
+Jacob Freeman Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
@@1AAuto well you need to correct this error. You guys are going to have people thinking that their truck will survive bad timing when it won’t! Why put out incorrect information?
@@1AAuto take down the video, edit that part, reupload, and profit
Shop vac is an EXCELLENT IDEA! Thank you.
Thank you for this info. It will definitely help.
Awesome, the lady is back!!!!
I like the shop vac trick thanks.
Your channel is Great! Thanks! Subbed.
Filled my 2003 SOHC with water going upstream. Took apart the engine, emptied the water out, and it's already gone a few thousand miles as strong as ever. Sounds a little different.
Considering buying a 08 with 6cyl. What are the common issues with that model and engine?
I'm glad I bought the 3 l V6
had my 02 since new and have 400+ miles on it now and not one of these symptoms!
The spray soap is what plumbers use to find leaks in soldered copper pipes.
Thank you 👍
Real easy, Yeah!
2003 4.0L Ranger thermostat replacement..
$8.00 part three simple bolts right?
The part they don't tell you is you have to remove the whole intake to remove those three simple bolts.
My next project 2003 3.0L PCV replacement with that stupid long plastic tube attached.
Same thing Intake removal for what should be a simple plug N play procedure.
That was a good one!
Great video as always, but that 4.0 is an interference fit motor I have the bent valves to prove it, anyway keep up the great work.
Thanks for the info it helps
Your really good, thx for great knowledge! :)
Am glad my 3.0 ranger
Thank you for the video so helpful!
These are great trucks but the timing chain setup on the 4.0 OHC is a complete nightmare! Ford should’ve just left the 4.0 alone or developed a new engine that was designed as OHC from the get go
I’m looking at a 2012 with 22000 miles on it tomorrow, my neighbor died about 6 years ago and the truck has been sitting in the driveway ever since, anything specific I should be looking for? They start it every 4/ 6 months but they don’t drive it,it’s sitting on asphalt so hopefully the bottom and the brake fuel lines and transmission lines are not all rotted,it’s a 4.0 v6 4x4 with the small rear door cab I think it’s 6’ bed
Can you do one on a standard ranger
+jlaz83 We're always cycling through common cars. We'll add this repair to our list! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Anyone has issues with very poor gas mileage? 01 Ranger is pitiful
@@michaelmaxwell7871 yup, what do you get on yours?
Great info ❕
2011 Ranger Sport 🛻
I'm subscribing. Your very good working on cars. 😀
what is the part number for that aluminum housing for thermostat as so far i had to replace mine 2 times seems like every 3 years.
I had mine go out 4 times before I finally got tired of changing it. Look it up on ebay: Ford Ranger 4.0 aluminum thermostat housing with your model year. Before you buy check to see if you have 1 or 2 coolant temperature sensors. It’s about 4-5 hour job and you can look up vids on YT how to do it.
01 4.0 over 200.000 + miles pumps housing alternators ip1 trans break lines runs great cheaper to fix then new 23 years old 4x4 works still AC great heat great love it looks great
Your video guy needs to show where the problem part is and where to find it, rather than your lovely face. Thanks, I own a 99 3.0L with 243K on the engine clock. Runs like a charm.
Thank you. You have a new sub. Recently bought a 99 4.0 one owner well maintained. It has cel shows as a o2 sensor lean condition. I've had hard start issues when I leave it sit for a week or two? Cheers
I'm trying to find out how long a SOHC v6 can last without new timing parts.
My 03 auto 2wd 4.0 ranger stalls in reverse but only when warm. Sits in 1st gear at a stoplight just fine. It had a vacuum leak but I fixed that.
Replaced the tps, cleaned the air intake valve, but it only happens in reverse.. I'm stumped. Crankshaft sensor replaced also.
+@fastwaterpw We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Could really do with a more close up view of the IAC part of the video. That's a problem with my 2001 explorer, the idle revs go up and down and cuts out etc. Thought it was maybe the throttle position sensor?
+Potential Techniques Thanks for the feedback! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
@@1AAuto i just felt that when you were talking about the part the camera was showing the person more than the actual parts being talked about.. Would be best to have a sequence of the person talking, pointing to where the part is in relation to the engine, then zoom in to the actual part and it's surroundings close up to get a good view of it, but knowing where it is in the engine.. Thanks it really helped i cleaned the IAC valve and it's a lot better but the revs still suddenly drop and the car stalls, seems to run better when i take one of the tubes out of the air intake so it can just suck air into the engine with no filter in the way so I've ordered a new filter in case that is choking the air supply. Might be a maf sensor problem. The revs are much more stable now though after i cleaned the IAC with some electrical contact cleaner and some cotton buds.
Thanks again for the advice on how to fix cars, i really hope karma rewards you well for that as i really can't afford to go to a garage to get it done.
Had a pile of these 2001-11 at work every one blew the auto tranny in the 3.0 and most blewr engine. I had a manual the trannyvwas tough but the 3.0 popped at 123k mi.
Great vid. Thanks. I thought you’d start talking about the Red Sox or the Celtics if you went any longer. Lol
Have a 2010 ranger best truck i have ever owned
tankyou help a lot !
Okay my tooth at my 1998 Ford ranger and four cylinder in it okay somebody put something in the oil and made the oil pump not work now the oil pumps working after I cleaned it all out in the motor but now it's lifters are tapping I guess at the top making loud noise clattering and I need to know how to fix that
How did u fix that what exactly happened to me on my 98 Ford
Can u get a answer for me on this matter
Getting ready to turn 300,000 98 4.0 only thing changed, oil, rear and front trans axle fluids at 100,000. serpentine belt, alt., headlight bulbs, wiper blades, auto. fluid and filter. egr valve, pvc valve. 4x4 air hose. That's it runs like new! Runs like the energizer bunny on new batteries! (Glen).
Do you guys ship to Canada?
+Nick R We do ship to Canada through our eBay store.
'98 Ranger XLT 2.5L, 5spd. Idles high when driving & shifting until I come to a complete stop 0mph. At a complete stop idle drops down to normal. Have replaced IAC Twice part #AC117 Standard Motor Part. RABS has been changed along with TPS, EGR VALVE & EGR SENSOR, DPFE, new catalytic converter & 02 sensors, MAF sensor, throttle body cleaned. Have disconnected IAC, one time it stayed low(normal) and drove fine, one time there was no change at all. I don't believe it is a vacuum leak because it is not consistent. I have checked all vacuum lines and hoses, with the exception of the Evap Vent sensor and the big hose from that to the canaster. Does the PCM need to be recalibrated/reset with proper perameters? I've reset several times with and without code scanner. If and when engine light comes on the code is 1506 IAC Valve. How big of a hammer should I use to fix this issue?
I don't know if this will help; disconnect the battery for like 20 minutes. Reconnect. With all air/ac OFF, no wipers, radio, anything at all - start the truck and let idle for a full 2 minutes. After the first 2 minutes have passed, turn the heat option all the way up, and the fans on just below max AND THEN turn the air options to max a/c and let idle another 2 full Minutes. Once done, turn the air back OFF and let idle under no load for about 30 seconds. Turn the car off. Next time you start the truck, you should be stable(er). Or not. It works on my 2003 SOHC 4l
EDiT: i also have a 5spd manual. Have also filled engine with water and its still fine apparently. I definitely did this trick rebuilding the engine lol i do think it helps though
The camera guy needs to show us what your point at or talking about
what happens when the brether leaks little oil to the air creaner
My 3.0l had the infamous cam snycro sound lol
Actually the 4.0 is a interference engine. I have bent valves I can show you. Timing chain replacement requires engine removal.
Aye, she does say that. The main reason for the need to remove is because it has 3 chains total. One to each cam, and one small one on the crank. Due to how they made the chain system, one of them is on the rear of the engine so requires pulling it to get to it.
Lmao, the first thing mentioned was what’s wrong with mine. Bought a new thermostat housing
When have timing chainnoise 2. Point why. Need use 10w40.oil. orchange two. 15w40. Bneed use motorcraft oil filer they have check.val in oil filter . Keep losen prime .won't lose prime in oil filter . They have time chain tensioner. Heavy oil tight on chain. If have rear main oilleave because rear main bearingcap has under size clearnance blow . Bypass rear crankshaft bear. Thenreplace seal too solve leakes .rear main bear. &seal. Solve remain oil leak.
Most of this is not relevant to the 4.0 OHV that was in the 98 to 00 Ranger. They ruined that engine when they made an overhead cam engine out of a design that was never meant to be that way
Not only does this stuff not apply. She's pointing out everything on a truck much bigger than a ranger.
I am considering buying an 02 ranger with a 4 cyl, according to my grandfather these were not very good engine, can anyone confirm or deny that?
Mine leaked at the water pump seal.
Why are you saying these aren't interference engines?
The Synchronizer drives the oil pump the chirp is more than just annoying. If it seizes up or if the gear that drives it off the cam breaks your oil pressure will drop to 0 and the engine can lock up.
That is true
With Ford quality is an afterthought with vehicles made from cheap Chinese plastic.
Thanks Ford.
This is for the 4.0 L engine
I like You
Where the first gen tacomas? Too reliable I guess
I want to bring my truck to her!
You could work on my car.
+Grant W. Whitwam Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Low key, Sue be fine as f
Wasted time
With all those issues I’m glad I don’t own a Ford. The saying still goes I can’t afford a Ford
the correct pronunciation is four-decimal-zero NOT four-point-OH!! points for letters and decimals for numbers
Actually... It's an even numbered displacement which means it is simply a four liter engine. 🎉
@@calumrife lol
Best laugh I’ve had watching ranger videos
So petty lol