I use Sedgwick bridle leather for almost all the belts I make and I guarantee them for 25 years. Any problems send it back and I’ll fix it for free. The only problems so far are people not using the Sedgwick leather balm I include which causes the colour to fade and stitching rotting due to incorrect storage and drying if wet. It’s really no problem to restitch and condition so I think the guarantee is a reasonable thing. I do tend to price slightly higher to cover this.
Aussie saddlemaker here. Sedgwick is very good quality, though pricy. I am currently making a military bridle and breast plate from English Sedgwick leather. And using the same leather for girth points for a restoration project for a Brit cavalry saddle made in World War One. A ground up restoration replacing all leather. J Baker in Devon is also very good quality - oak tanned.
For full sustainability, one of my first leatherworking projects when I was 15 or 16 was recycling an old incredibly worn full grain leather belt into a wrist cuff, knowing what I do now I would've burnished the cut edges but it still looked pretty good.
That's the best how to demonstration I've seen for leather work. I have never made a belt but repaired some but mostly rifle slings I do and they really get hammered. Love the tools you have I just use an old wood chisel. My uncle made horse bridles and used mutton fat on the leather and they definately would last a life time. I use Dubin heated up a bit and rubbed into the leather as slings get a rough life and the brass fittings I polish up and reuse with the green waxy stuff removed. Cheers
Just FYI, Your sweat PH and how much you sweat can have a BIG impact on belt longevity. If your belt doesn't get a chance to dry between wearings that will make a big difference too. Cleaning and conditioning is well worth the effort for a couple bucks a year.
I actually have a belt that's over 40 years old now... I got it 22 years ago, and it was over 20 years old when I got it. I think the last time I treated it was about 10 years ago - I just never seem to remember to do it. It's still going strong 😅
Aussie saddlemaker here. Your belt is typical of very good quality veg tan cowhide or similar and properly made by a leather worker who was well trained. Two things will shorten the life of a leather belt, heat (such as from hot water, or the sun) and wind (which will dry out the leather). As long as the belt is not stored in a shed such as a steel clad shed or a farmer's shed where heat and wind are a problem, and is stored in your house (mine are in my bedroom when i am not wearing them) your belt, if good quality, ought to last for years without any conditioning. When customers ask though, I suggest applying wax based boot polish (paste type not liquid type) perhaps once a year or more often if the leather gets scuffed. Wax is the important ingredient.
I love that you're face forward in the newer videos. I love your work. I love all of your advice. You're one of my premier go-to people, both when I want ideas/advice and even when I just want to watch something to ease my soul. You're soul-food when I lack quality emotional sustenance. Thank you!
Hi, I have watched you for years and appreciate all you do help us middle of road leather crafters who make projects like the ones you make on your channel. I started out about 10 yrs. ago watching Leodis leather from England. Anyway back to belts. I bought a plain leather belt after I saw one which my son had bought online. It is made from water buffalo hide from Africa or India, can't remember. They are not cheap, $65 and all I have done is use Aussie leather conditioner every 2 years or so. Man, this belt still looks great after 7 or 8 yrs now. Water buffalo hide. It will last many years if you treat it now and then with Aussie conditioner.
man those french skivers are crazy sharp!! i'm always scared of using a skiver because I could never get the consistency. amazing video as always keep up the awesome work!!
HIGHLY suggest the skivers - you can't go wrong under $50. They have such a nice hand feel, we worked really had to get a handle shape that was a little bigger than normal and not so ornate so they're more comfortable in the hand - they're a bit larger and rounded at the palm, and comfortable but not too too big. Lots of control, they're my fav I've ever used in that department. They also do come pretty sharp :)
Loved this bro ! Dude you’re patience is crazy I make my own belts and I can’t stop re burnishing them or giving them a condition which they most probably don’t need … I love how the buckle guy is hooking you up as you look after them just as much
I got a Carmine Jack/J & FJ Baker belt a couple of years ago and it’s a beast! I highly doubt that you’ll be replacing it in 10-25 years as long as you don’t take it swimming in the ocean.
Hey Eric, i really enjoy the videos. I think you're a natural teacher and have fine voice for the videos, a sincere person... I hope you keep going on camera it makes it a lot more personable....
Aussie saddlemaker here. I agree that it is unrealistic to expect a belt to last a life time, but if the belt maker is properly trained, he or she can select good quality veg tan leather, can identify the weaker and stronger ends of a leather strap and knows which end to put the buckle on, and uses a solid brass or solid german silver buckle, and makes the belt using bridle making principles, the belt should last 25 years plus and even more. Though I don't use Herman leather, I have examined it and it is very good leather and the wearer should get years of use from it. For clarity, I am not criticising the video presenter at all, more power to him in sharing his knowledge. Nor am I saying only use Herman - I am sure there are other good US tanners as well.
Its like I'm looking at myself in the future, i have tons of plants, i love leather working, and i collect old bottles and other pieces. Keep up the great work man !
This is crazy I just finished making myself a belt out of some j&fj baker harness leather wish I could post a picture. I did use this video with just so happened to be available to help with my keeper sizing so thanks again for all the information and free knowledge you dish out
I like the French Skivers, but I prefer using the Japanese block planes a bit more. They control how much you're removing so much easier. You should check them out sometime!
I recently used up an elk leather belt my grandfather brought back from Canada where he spend 7 years as a PoW after he was captured by a Canadian Destroyer during Operation Berlin in 1941. Unfortunatly the leather was worn kinda thin over the years an it ripped apart, still, it lasted me about 5 years.
J an FJ Baker in Cobbaton Devon England, I have visited this tannery. The manager told me on this site, a tannery has been in existence since the days of the Roman Empire! They say they are the only oak tannery remaining in England. Lovely, beautiful leather! Aussie saddlemaker here.
great looking aged belt and new belt there, I still have and wear one of my first vegtan leather belt from mid 90s, it is now in the same dark brown black color like yours especially on the end part where the holes touching the metal buckle . my newer 4years old belt is still in reddish brown phase with some darker part on the holes part from frequent handling and perhaps buckle oxidation. I think these belts will last a lifetime or two, unless I wear it to swim in the salt water or totally neglect it.
Exactly the video I needed to see. Working on making a new belt for myself and glad I know what and how I need to do it. Love those tools. Buckleguy has awesome stuff to say the least. Blew me away when I realized they had dies that worked with my press. Again, thanks for showing this process. Was very helpful and informative. 👍🏻All the best to you.
No. no no! Always skive from the flesh side! Really, it increases the tensile strength and still reduces the width so it lays at a constant thickness. Trust me. I make belts for a living.
I have never used Corazza before looks like I have added it to my Amazon list lol thanks for posting this video I’ve made a bunch of belts before and even bought one at a flea market for me and my wife was shocked lol but it looked like a better belt than what is in a store, I’m wanting to add a bone/poster board in the next belt I make but with corazza in around the buckle to make it better thanks for sharing 😇😎
Amazing video for me, I'm getting everything going to sell stuff. I want to do belt so this information is perfectly timed. I like French skivers, those are great out of the box. I'll look into getting stuff cut down into belts by the tannery, i wasn't sure if that would be cost effective.
Had a cheap leather belt when i was 14 years old, poor bastard snapped when i was 29ish after being worn every single day of my life, t'was a sad day indeed
I find adding three inches to the waist size, then using that length from the buckle end (not including the buckle!) to the center adjustment hole usually gets me pretty close.
I think a leather belt could last a lifetime. Mine lasted for 32 years before tearing across one of the prong holes a few weeks ago, and it was just an inexpensive department store belt (about $10 in 1991) with an approximately 1/8" thick plain leather strap (which isn't very thick). If you were to make one out of much stronger leather than cowhide, e.g., kangaroo hide, and you were to take care of it, I bet it could easily last twice as long, or more, which would constitute a lifetime for many people.
Aussie saddlemaker here, kangaroo hide is too thin for making belts (except perhaps plaited belts). typically it is about 1.0 - 1.2mm thick. Look for cowhide 3.5 - 4.0mm thick or more if you want thicker. Kangaroo hide is good for wallets and coin purses and for plaiting. for its thickness, it is a strong leather. BTW, I live on a farm and sometimes if I return home at night, will find kangaroos ('roos we call them) hopping over the fence after feasting on the grass close to my house - cheeky buggers! When travelling to Melbourne about 170 miles away, it is normal to see about 10-12 dead roos on or beside the road, run over by trucks and cars overnight (they only eat at night). Good luck with your project.
@@keithad6485 "Aussie saddlemaker here, kangaroo hide is too thin for making belts (except perhaps plaited belts). typically it is about 1.0 - 1.2mm thick." Even at 1 - 1.2mm thickness it should still be stronger than 3.5 - 4mm thick cowhide (it is said to have 10 times the tensile strength of cowhide of the same thickness). However, if you want a more traditional belt thickness you could just use kangaroo hide to make a "raised" belt, which consists of 3 layers. You have the top layer and bottom layer which are both the same width, and the inner layer which is sandwiched between the two and is a little narrower in width, so you're only stitching the top and bottom layers together, allowing the inner layer to form a raised area (or you could have all three layers be the same width to make a 3-layer non-raised belt). It's a common method of belt construction. There are videos here on UA-cam showing how to make one, for example, "Square Raised Belt - Be The Maker - Make Along Tutorial" from the J.H.Leather channel. "Good luck with your project." Thanks, I made my new belt the day before yesterday. It was the first belt I've ever made and will probably be the last, since, if it lasts as long as my old one from 1991, I'll be about 82 years old by the time it breaks (I probably won't even live that long). I made it from a 10-oz (which is about 0.14" / 3.5mm thick), 1.5" wide vegetable-tanned cowhide strap, steel buckle, and two #9 copper burr rivets. I like the idea of a kangaroo leather belt but I didn't want to deal with trying to obtain it here in the US (nor paying the price for it), and I didn't want to deal with hand stitching three layers together either. It was far easier just to buy a precut 1.5" wide cowhide strap for $13 shipped.
Sounds like the maker used good quality leather, a high quality buckle and was competent in working with leather, and, you took care of it. From a saddlemaker Down Under.
Man it would be super helpful if you did a video on how to use illustrator. I keep hearing that it's the go-to product for digital patterns, but I can't figure it out!
Your comment gave me a chuckle, similar problem for me too! Allowed me to make a new belt with a 50 year old solid brass harness buckle made in Walsall England by James Cotterell foundry, now long closed. Been wearing it for two years now. I expect 30 plus years from it. From an Aussie saddlemaker.
Hi there. Found your chsnnel and have been binge watching. Just starting in this hobby. Ive looked through you videos and don't see one on sharpening all the different kinds of knives etc. Any chance of a video on this? Best wishes, Mark
My first personal belt is a two piece(with a metal insert I made for a CC belt. It's been conditioned about 3 times in 6 years. Worn everyday, I even used it as a strap wrench one day to school the young fellas at work. Pretty sure it was garbage Chinese import leather. Still going strong! Can't wait to make one out of decent leather! Love the channel! I have an old paper shotgun shell for you shelf if you want it sir.
I somehow ended up owning a full box of paper 20GA shells and they are one of my prized possessions! Glad to see I’m not the only one who thinks they’re cool.
Thanks for sharing this belt video. How much color change do you get with conditioning? When I work with veg tan and don't stain it, with the conditioning I've been using (Fiebing's Aussie Conditioner), it darkens a little, but not much. I've found if I use Neatsfoot oil, it darkens more than just the conditioner but I'm never sure which is best to use.
Any conditioning you apply to leather will darken it. It's the nature of the beast, pardon the pun. How much it darkens is usually dependant on the tannage, type of tannins used, etc....
I recognise the tools. Custom branding maybe? but those exact tools. They're definitely a good quality metal and well made. Lovely choice in woods. The bevelers are awkward to use and made specifically for fine work on thinner leathers. VERY tricky to use on corners and damp leather. The skivers are easy to sharpen and maintain but require regular maintenance. I got some very cheap when I toured the factory.
I have the 3d printed handles and drawings, so I can attest to everything beside the blade being custom for sure - made in the same factory, but the wood, ferrule, etc are all spec'd to order. The hand feel is very different than the stock catalog a lot of companies pick from, I think it took around 6 months to get the handles right
I love the display shelves!! I use to collect the old magazines.. with all the old Ads for juicy fruit gum or washing powder Ads. The wording is so funny and they have so many characters. Or chocolate 🍫 bars , sprite& Coke Ads. I have the old coke wooden boxes they were delivered in .. I used to collect wooden boxes for bottles. The ads were like the old Italian peroini pictures from the 1930’s. We could’ve done swaps lol..
Hey man i love your channel and your work. i really want to get into making some leather products, do you know the startup cost for tools and everything ill need? also where do you source your hides from? thanks!
in my experience selling belts for around 14 years, staples just do not fail - I've had stitching fail. I'm all for a solid metal and leather belt if you want low maintenance
So true! Cos of this, I made a new belt two years ago for my larger guts! Aussie saddlemaker here. My customers sometimes ask if my warrantee covers outgrowing the belt! always gets a laugh!
I have discovered that I have developed a sensitivity to any kind of metal belt buckles. I think the plating comes off and the zinc or whatever the base metal is bothers my skin. Any kind of 'plastic' alternatives to a metal buckle. I would love to make myself a full leather belt with a non-metal buckle.
Don't know about a buckle, but what about two d-rings instead? I've honestly prefer belts with them , but it also means that the back side of your leather will be pretty visible too
@@amandaw6771 The D rings would probably be zinc that is plated. As the plating wears down, the skin is exposed to zinc and produces hives. No, has to be epoxy or some kind of resin.
I know the problem. Some of my customers have the same problem, allergic to nickel results in a redness on the skin near the buckle. Nickel is common plating on cheaper zinc buckles, solution - try solid brass buckle (has no nickel). This is what i recommend to my customers. Aussie saddlemaker here.
Perfect timing !! I’m making a belt for my Chiropractor… teaching them what 💯 real leather is lol. After he brought a “ leather belt” @ a higher price than needed…then fell apart after a year.. Thanks for being here . Ur my truth of what the other side.. can be. It’s not impossible.. & it’s not …”Just a little hand craft ur doing over there, there’s no future I that.. you can’t enjoy what your doing otherwise ur not working at all’ 💯🤞🏼🌻
Mine is still going after 34 years. Heavy use in todays cheaply made overpriced crap I’ll give it 5 years and 1 star in quality. Go to a vintage leather store or a thrift store and find an older belt in good condition.
The biggest rivet-based comment war should be that what you call “pop rivets”. In the most gentle and encouraging tone and terms, Eric, you’re wording ungoodly… What you call “pop rivets” are actually “cap rivets”, whether single- or double-cap. “Pop rivets” are very different. They are also known as “blind rivets”, as you only need access to (see) one side. Searching “cap, “blind”, and “pop” rivets will quickly confirm! I love your vids, but cringe every time you mention rivets, @corterleather
Oak tanned leather .. what i like to do for Belts is to fold them at the Buckle and the Keeper wet .. so they have a nive tight fit and dont look that loose .. and sorry to say .. dont look that cheap .. this looks like what every Amateur can do and not realy profesional
I use Sedgwick bridle leather for almost all the belts I make and I guarantee them for 25 years. Any problems send it back and I’ll fix it for free. The only problems so far are people not using the Sedgwick leather balm I include which causes the colour to fade and stitching rotting due to incorrect storage and drying if wet. It’s really no problem to restitch and condition so I think the guarantee is a reasonable thing. I do tend to price slightly higher to cover this.
How much? And are they durable for everyday use?
Aussie saddlemaker here. Sedgwick is very good quality, though pricy. I am currently making a military bridle and breast plate from English Sedgwick leather. And using the same leather for girth points for a restoration project for a Brit cavalry saddle made in World War One. A ground up restoration replacing all leather. J Baker in Devon is also very good quality - oak tanned.
I'm 56 in a few weeks, so that belt could certainly last me my lifetime! Keep up the great work, and I hope you're well! 😁👍
Are you planning on dying soon?
For full sustainability, one of my first leatherworking projects when I was 15 or 16 was recycling an old incredibly worn full grain leather belt into a wrist cuff, knowing what I do now I would've burnished the cut edges but it still looked pretty good.
That's the best how to demonstration I've seen for leather work. I have never made a belt but repaired some but mostly rifle slings I do and they really get hammered. Love the tools you have I just use an old wood chisel. My uncle made horse bridles and used mutton fat on the leather and they definately would last a life time. I use Dubin heated up a bit and rubbed into the leather as slings get a rough life and the brass fittings I polish up and reuse with the green waxy stuff removed. Cheers
Just FYI, Your sweat PH and how much you sweat can have a BIG impact on belt longevity. If your belt doesn't get a chance to dry between wearings that will make a big difference too. Cleaning and conditioning is well worth the effort for a couple bucks a year.
I actually have a belt that's over 40 years old now... I got it 22 years ago, and it was over 20 years old when I got it. I think the last time I treated it was about 10 years ago - I just never seem to remember to do it. It's still going strong 😅
Aussie saddlemaker here. Your belt is typical of very good quality veg tan cowhide or similar and properly made by a leather worker who was well trained. Two things will shorten the life of a leather belt, heat (such as from hot water, or the sun) and wind (which will dry out the leather). As long as the belt is not stored in a shed such as a steel clad shed or a farmer's shed where heat and wind are a problem, and is stored in your house (mine are in my bedroom when i am not wearing them) your belt, if good quality, ought to last for years without any conditioning. When customers ask though, I suggest applying wax based boot polish (paste type not liquid type) perhaps once a year or more often if the leather gets scuffed. Wax is the important ingredient.
I love that you're face forward in the newer videos. I love your work. I love all of your advice. You're one of my premier go-to people, both when I want ideas/advice and even when I just want to watch something to ease my soul. You're soul-food when I lack quality emotional sustenance. Thank you!
Hi, I have watched you for years and appreciate all you do help us middle of road leather crafters who make projects like the ones you make on your channel. I started out about 10 yrs. ago watching Leodis leather from England. Anyway back to belts. I bought a plain leather belt after I saw one which my son had bought online. It is made from water buffalo hide from Africa or India, can't remember. They are not cheap, $65 and all I have done is use Aussie leather conditioner every 2 years or so. Man, this belt still looks great after 7 or 8 yrs now. Water buffalo hide. It will last many years if you treat it now and then with Aussie conditioner.
man those french skivers are crazy sharp!! i'm always scared of using a skiver because I could never get the consistency. amazing video as always keep up the awesome work!!
HIGHLY suggest the skivers - you can't go wrong under $50. They have such a nice hand feel, we worked really had to get a handle shape that was a little bigger than normal and not so ornate so they're more comfortable in the hand - they're a bit larger and rounded at the palm, and comfortable but not too too big. Lots of control, they're my fav I've ever used in that department. They also do come pretty sharp :)
@@Corter can't complain about a larger base with my gorilla hands haha 🤣😂 Might pick it up when the stitching chisels restock
If you’re looking for consistency, a French skiver is not it….
Loved this bro !
Dude you’re patience is crazy I make my own belts and I can’t stop re burnishing them or giving them a condition which they most probably don’t need …
I love how the buckle guy is hooking you up as you look after them just as much
I got a Carmine Jack/J & FJ Baker belt a couple of years ago and it’s a beast! I highly doubt that you’ll be replacing it in 10-25 years as long as you don’t take it swimming in the ocean.
I agree - salt water not the best for veg tan. Tends to stiffen the leather. Aussie saddlemaker here.
Hey Eric, i really enjoy the videos. I think you're a natural teacher and have fine voice for the videos, a sincere person... I hope you keep going on camera it makes it a lot more personable....
Aussie saddlemaker here. I agree that it is unrealistic to expect a belt to last a life time, but if the belt maker is properly trained, he or she can select good quality veg tan leather, can identify the weaker and stronger ends of a leather strap and knows which end to put the buckle on, and uses a solid brass or solid german silver buckle, and makes the belt using bridle making principles, the belt should last 25 years plus and even more. Though I don't use Herman leather, I have examined it and it is very good leather and the wearer should get years of use from it. For clarity, I am not criticising the video presenter at all, more power to him in sharing his knowledge. Nor am I saying only use Herman - I am sure there are other good US tanners as well.
I made my belt out of a J&FJ Baker strap as well. The most phenomenal belt leather I’ve ever touched in my life.
Its like I'm looking at myself in the future, i have tons of plants, i love leather working, and i collect old bottles and other pieces. Keep up the great work man !
I like those skivers and may try them, but I use a block plane since that's what I'm comfortable with from decades of working as a carpenter.
This is crazy I just finished making myself a belt out of some j&fj baker harness leather wish I could post a picture. I did use this video with just so happened to be available to help with my keeper sizing so thanks again for all the information and free knowledge you dish out
Your old belt got some stories!😮 what a difference… I look forward a few belt patina updates!
I like the French Skivers, but I prefer using the Japanese block planes a bit more. They control how much you're removing so much easier. You should check them out sometime!
You have a link to a good one? Lots out there and it’s easy to buy a not so good product.
I didn't even know they exist haha, will do!
the cracking could have been prevented with leather balm and oil... like once a couple years, but you really beat up that belt
My belt is full grain veg tan cow hide, hand made in Morocco. I think it'll be fine.
I recently used up an elk leather belt my grandfather brought back from Canada where he spend 7 years as a PoW after he was captured by a Canadian Destroyer during Operation Berlin in 1941. Unfortunatly the leather was worn kinda thin over the years an it ripped apart, still, it lasted me about 5 years.
Yeah elk is not the thickest. Cowhide or bison is thick and strong.
I've had a cheap Dickies brand leather belt for 25 years now. Wear every day, and still going strong.
J an FJ Baker in Cobbaton Devon England, I have visited this tannery. The manager told me on this site, a tannery has been in existence since the days of the Roman Empire! They say they are the only oak tannery remaining in England. Lovely, beautiful leather! Aussie saddlemaker here.
What did you do to the rivets? Did you use a smaller setter to make it look like a solid rivet? I’m so intrigued lol. Great video :)
As someone whos just getting into leather work, thats skiver was impressive on video.
great looking aged belt and new belt there, I still have and wear one of my first vegtan leather belt from mid 90s, it is now in the same dark brown black color like yours especially on the end part where the holes touching the metal buckle . my newer 4years old belt is still in reddish brown phase with some darker part on the holes part from frequent handling and perhaps buckle oxidation. I think these belts will last a lifetime or two, unless I wear it to swim in the salt water or totally neglect it.
Exactly the video I needed to see. Working on making a new belt for myself and glad I know what and how I need to do it. Love those tools. Buckleguy has awesome stuff to say the least. Blew me away when I realized they had dies that worked with my press. Again, thanks for showing this process. Was very helpful and informative. 👍🏻All the best to you.
I just discovered you today and I love your work. I also love how you didn't back down from Louie Vatton.
Yes, I’d love to order a belt from you! “Not sandy” haha love it.
jfj baker is fantastic, I have some experience with their leathers and have been to the tannery in Colyton. It's something else!
Me too. Back in 2014. The manager told me there has been a tannery there since Roman times! Beautiful leather.
No. no no! Always skive from the flesh side! Really, it increases the tensile strength and still reduces the width so it lays at a constant thickness. Trust me. I make belts for a living.
You should turn the old belt into your strop.
Every year you should do a belt update to see the progress of the new belt
Try Hanks belts 100 yeay warranty. They are pricey but i really like how my carry belt is holding up.
100 years - wow. I hope I live that long!
I have never used Corazza before looks like I have added it to my Amazon list lol thanks for posting this video I’ve made a bunch of belts before and even bought one at a flea market for me and my wife was shocked lol but it looked like a better belt than what is in a store, I’m wanting to add a bone/poster board in the next belt I make but with corazza in around the buckle to make it better thanks for sharing 😇😎
Amazing video for me, I'm getting everything going to sell stuff. I want to do belt so this information is perfectly timed. I like French skivers, those are great out of the box. I'll look into getting stuff cut down into belts by the tannery, i wasn't sure if that would be cost effective.
I am so used to the no face video, that I really need to get used to this new format. This is another interesting video. 🎉
Had a cheap leather belt when i was 14 years old, poor bastard snapped when i was 29ish after being worn every single day of my life, t'was a sad day indeed
I have so much trouble with sizing belts correctly... Would be a nice simple project if I could nail that aspect.
I find adding three inches to the waist size, then using that length from the buckle end (not including the buckle!) to the center adjustment hole usually gets me pretty close.
What would be the best belt type to be able to sustain constantly being ripped through the belt loops one handed with force? Asking for a friend 🙏
I think a leather belt could last a lifetime. Mine lasted for 32 years before tearing across one of the prong holes a few weeks ago, and it was just an inexpensive department store belt (about $10 in 1991) with an approximately 1/8" thick plain leather strap (which isn't very thick). If you were to make one out of much stronger leather than cowhide, e.g., kangaroo hide, and you were to take care of it, I bet it could easily last twice as long, or more, which would constitute a lifetime for many people.
Aussie saddlemaker here, kangaroo hide is too thin for making belts (except perhaps plaited belts). typically it is about 1.0 - 1.2mm thick. Look for cowhide 3.5 - 4.0mm thick or more if you want thicker. Kangaroo hide is good for wallets and coin purses and for plaiting. for its thickness, it is a strong leather. BTW, I live on a farm and sometimes if I return home at night, will find kangaroos ('roos we call them) hopping over the fence after feasting on the grass close to my house - cheeky buggers! When travelling to Melbourne about 170 miles away, it is normal to see about 10-12 dead roos on or beside the road, run over by trucks and cars overnight (they only eat at night). Good luck with your project.
@@keithad6485 "Aussie saddlemaker here, kangaroo hide is too thin for making belts (except perhaps plaited belts). typically it is about 1.0 - 1.2mm thick."
Even at 1 - 1.2mm thickness it should still be stronger than 3.5 - 4mm thick cowhide (it is said to have 10 times the tensile strength of cowhide of the same thickness).
However, if you want a more traditional belt thickness you could just use kangaroo hide to make a "raised" belt, which consists of 3 layers. You have the top layer and bottom layer which are both the same width, and the inner layer which is sandwiched between the two and is a little narrower in width, so you're only stitching the top and bottom layers together, allowing the inner layer to form a raised area (or you could have all three layers be the same width to make a 3-layer non-raised belt). It's a common method of belt construction. There are videos here on UA-cam showing how to make one, for example, "Square Raised Belt - Be The Maker - Make Along Tutorial" from the J.H.Leather channel.
"Good luck with your project."
Thanks, I made my new belt the day before yesterday. It was the first belt I've ever made and will probably be the last, since, if it lasts as long as my old one from 1991, I'll be about 82 years old by the time it breaks (I probably won't even live that long). I made it from a 10-oz (which is about 0.14" / 3.5mm thick), 1.5" wide vegetable-tanned cowhide strap, steel buckle, and two #9 copper burr rivets.
I like the idea of a kangaroo leather belt but I didn't want to deal with trying to obtain it here in the US (nor paying the price for it), and I didn't want to deal with hand stitching three layers together either. It was far easier just to buy a precut 1.5" wide cowhide strap for $13 shipped.
I had a hand tooled leather belt that I wore every day and it lasted about 40 years.
Sounds like the maker used good quality leather, a high quality buckle and was competent in working with leather, and, you took care of it. From a saddlemaker Down Under.
What are the specs on that sizing belt? It looks dope!!
Ive been wearing the same veg tan belt everyday for over 30 years now
Cześć ja zrobiłem właśnie pasek skóra bydlęca 4 cm, grubość 3,5. Konserwacja Snow proof. Pozdrowienia
Man it would be super helpful if you did a video on how to use illustrator. I keep hearing that it's the go-to product for digital patterns, but I can't figure it out!
I wear a cow collar made by Weaver leather one and 3 quarter wide it is about, thirty dollars tractor supply on line you can get it
You’re right. I’ve been wearing the same leather belt since 1994. I recently had to buy a new one. I got too fat.
Your comment gave me a chuckle, similar problem for me too! Allowed me to make a new belt with a 50 year old solid brass harness buckle made in Walsall England by James Cotterell foundry, now long closed. Been wearing it for two years now. I expect 30 plus years from it. From an Aussie saddlemaker.
Hi there. Found your chsnnel and have been binge watching. Just starting in this hobby. Ive looked through you videos and don't see one on sharpening all the different kinds of knives etc. Any chance of a video on this?
Best wishes, Mark
Springfield leather has a two hour video on this with timestamps for different kinds of tools in the description - it's really helped me!
@@amandaw6771 Thanks Amanda
My daily wear is over 50 years old, American cowhide!
wow the color change was awesome.
My first personal belt is a two piece(with a metal insert I made for a CC belt. It's been conditioned about 3 times in 6 years. Worn everyday, I even used it as a strap wrench one day to school the young fellas at work. Pretty sure it was garbage Chinese import leather. Still going strong! Can't wait to make one out of decent leather! Love the channel! I have an old paper shotgun shell for you shelf if you want it sir.
cause it was full grain
I somehow ended up owning a full box of paper 20GA shells and they are one of my prized possessions! Glad to see I’m not the only one who thinks they’re cool.
Thanks for sharing this belt video. How much color change do you get with conditioning? When I work with veg tan and don't stain it, with the conditioning I've been using (Fiebing's Aussie Conditioner), it darkens a little, but not much. I've found if I use Neatsfoot oil, it darkens more than just the conditioner but I'm never sure which is best to use.
Any conditioning you apply to leather will darken it. It's the nature of the beast, pardon the pun. How much it darkens is usually dependant on the tannage, type of tannins used, etc....
Bick 4 will be your least darkening conditioner out there. Barely any change at all in my experience
Dude these new tools are a dream! I love my 0 beveler!
Did Buckleguy send you their new brass circle tools?
A few years ago I decided to try an elastic belt. After about a week, I threw away all my leather belts.
Try oiling it every new year and us eyelets not just holes.
Are you suggesting *elongated eyelets? That’s whats needed in such a buckle, tho round would work on a Conway buckle. Where would you source those?
I recognise the tools. Custom branding maybe? but those exact tools. They're definitely a good quality metal and well made. Lovely choice in woods. The bevelers are awkward to use and made specifically for fine work on thinner leathers. VERY tricky to use on corners and damp leather. The skivers are easy to sharpen and maintain but require regular maintenance. I got some very cheap when I toured the factory.
I have the 3d printed handles and drawings, so I can attest to everything beside the blade being custom for sure - made in the same factory, but the wood, ferrule, etc are all spec'd to order. The hand feel is very different than the stock catalog a lot of companies pick from, I think it took around 6 months to get the handles right
Do you have a name for the thing you added at 14 minutes? I couldn't find it
I love the display shelves!!
I use to collect the old magazines.. with all the old Ads for juicy fruit gum or washing powder Ads. The wording is so funny and they have so many characters. Or chocolate 🍫 bars , sprite& Coke Ads.
I have the old coke wooden boxes they were delivered in .. I used to collect wooden boxes for bottles.
The ads were like the old Italian peroini pictures from the 1930’s.
We could’ve done swaps lol..
quedó con madre.
síguelos ocupando, yo tengo los míos desde la secundaria de muy buena calidad los uso de vez en cuando.
saludos.
Hey man i love your channel and your work. i really want to get into making some leather products, do you know the startup cost for tools and everything ill need? also where do you source your hides from? thanks!
All that info is in videos on the channel :)
19:47 stitch is better though right? I always stitch under the assumption it bends with the material so it wont get worn out as quick.
in my experience selling belts for around 14 years, staples just do not fail - I've had stitching fail. I'm all for a solid metal and leather belt if you want low maintenance
This is the LEATHER
How do you finish the reverse side? I just leave it but I don't really like that in a nicer belt
I like the belt size guide template very cool idea
I wear belt buckle style belts how much would one cost me to get made
It’s “the Cape” everything ends up in the ocean at some point! 😅
You know it would be a ģreat idea to make a Watch Strap out of that used leather Belt, you could make at leat 2 ‼
It won’t last a lifetime because the waistline gets bigger.
So true! Cos of this, I made a new belt two years ago for my larger guts! Aussie saddlemaker here. My customers sometimes ask if my warrantee covers outgrowing the belt! always gets a laugh!
A belt will last you a lifetime if you regularly condition with neatsfoot oil.
You didn't model it for us. Love your vids.
Make a key fob out a good section of the old belt for memory sake 😅
Really like the background shot!!!!!
what is the thickness of that in mm?
7 mm nice
Gee, those new tools look just like the ones Barry King in Sheridan, Wyoming makes. He's in the USA, not China, in case you didn't know.
I only use leather belt.
I have discovered that I have developed a sensitivity to any kind of metal belt buckles. I think the plating comes off and the zinc or whatever the base metal is bothers my skin. Any kind of 'plastic' alternatives to a metal buckle. I would love to make myself a full leather belt with a non-metal buckle.
Don't know about a buckle, but what about two d-rings instead? I've honestly prefer belts with them , but it also means that the back side of your leather will be pretty visible too
@@amandaw6771 The D rings would probably be zinc that is plated. As the plating wears down, the skin is exposed to zinc and produces hives. No, has to be epoxy or some kind of resin.
I know the problem. Some of my customers have the same problem, allergic to nickel results in a redness on the skin near the buckle. Nickel is common plating on cheaper zinc buckles, solution - try solid brass buckle (has no nickel). This is what i recommend to my customers. Aussie saddlemaker here.
Super interesting video. Thanks!
your videos have become more interesting and entertaining .
Perfect timing !! I’m making a belt for my Chiropractor… teaching them what 💯 real leather is lol. After he brought a “ leather belt” @ a higher price than needed…then fell apart after a year..
Thanks for being here . Ur my truth of what the other side.. can be. It’s not impossible.. & it’s not …”Just a little hand craft ur doing over there, there’s no future I that.. you can’t enjoy what your doing otherwise ur not working at all’
💯🤞🏼🌻
Would love your old !
Great to see your video.👍
Fine and coarse
Love your videos!
“I’ve never done anything to it” that’s why it’s falling apart 🙄🙄🙄
we can't see you
"I accidentally went swimming in salt water"... Bruh, what?
more like got blasted by a rogue wave standing at the shoreline haha
Mine is still going after 34 years.
Heavy use in todays cheaply made overpriced crap I’ll give it 5 years and 1 star in quality.
Go to a vintage leather store or a thrift store and find an older belt in good condition.
23:45 if you don't want to waste time
The biggest rivet-based comment war should be that what you call “pop rivets”. In the most gentle and encouraging tone and terms, Eric, you’re wording ungoodly…
What you call “pop rivets” are actually “cap rivets”, whether single- or double-cap.
“Pop rivets” are very different. They are also known as “blind rivets”, as you only need access to (see) one side.
Searching “cap, “blind”, and “pop” rivets will quickly confirm!
I love your vids, but cringe every time you mention rivets, @corterleather
Technically some bottles of milk lasted my father a lifetime. Hopefully my belt lasts longer than a few days though.
Nothing lasts a lifetime
Dude, I think we met a couple times... maybe not, IDK... so weird..
Oak tanned leather .. what i like to do for Belts is to fold them at the Buckle and the Keeper wet .. so they have a nive tight fit and dont look that loose .. and sorry to say .. dont look that cheap .. this looks like what every Amateur can do and not realy profesional
I've never seen your face before! I had assumed you were blonde for some reason 🙂
Surrrrrprise!!! 😊
These tools are Chinese made. If you buy a large amount they laser etch your logo on it. They haven’t worked on anything.
Cowabunga.!