I went this route on my 370z a few years ago and have absolutely loved it! What Spencer is describing about corner entry and exit is spot on with this diff. The only negative that I've experienced so far is that when one wheel comes off the ground as when I try to get into my driveway at an angle, this diff operates just like an open differential and it doesn't help me get into the driveway like some of the other options would. The wavetrac is supposed to fix this specific issue and if I had known about about it at the time I would probably have strongly considered it. I don't regret the decision though because this specific scenario doesn't affect the car when it's actually being driven.
I'm surprised nobody has stated this(and maybe the video does, I'm not done yet) but when what you described happens, one wheel off the ground, if you apply the ebrake gently it gives the quaife enough bite on the spinning wheel to transfer torque to the other one and get you unstuck. I agree that is the biggest con however it does have what I described above as an option to fix it. So at least you are not stuck in that position.
When do we get to see Austin in a video???? Good jobs guys I'm hearing nothing but great things about you from any and every one I speak to. Keep it up.
Hello, I am trying to get a diff that will allow my 370z to drift a lot easier but also have drive ability without excess noise. Would this be suitable or would the z1 street pro be a better option?
Quafie diffs are okay for drifting, they honestly do very well but are not the best for it and are more for road racing with a sprinkle of drifting. Watch some videos people lay down 2 tire tracks no problem. However if your goal is to drift and you plan on doing it a lot then find a clutch type diff, how aggressive you want them is your choice. You can also choose between 1.5 way and 2 way and all that, again depending how aggressive you want it to be. If it is a drift car 100% of the time go 2 way clutch. You will dislike it on the street most likely.
RE: Gen 2 Viper: How can you effectively pick the right differential without actually trying one? That is the question. Perhaps the statement, "Makes the car easier to control in adverse traction conditions." might be a good qualitative one - especially when Gen 2 Vipers can be quite difficult. ALSO, differences between the various gear-type diffs.
Hello, will this diff be good for "off roading"? I live on a dirt and gravel hill and never thought my G37 would struggle soo bad to go up hill without one wheel breaking traction all the time with the stock open diff. My 1991 front wheel drive nissan maxima with open diff does just fine. But I want to be able to enjoy the G37 without the nightmares of having to dive it back up home 😅 AHHH I think I should have gotten the infiniti FX50 instead
Thanks for the vid. We endurance race a 350Z in Champcar. Heat is the enemy in endurance racing. Would these produce less heat than clutch type LSDs? I know these don't have the same level of lock up as clutch types, but that's fine for our use if they would be durable for endurance racing. Thanks for you thoughts!
So, I am feeling the sadness of an old vlsd in my car. It feels almost entirely open these days after 85k miles. I'm having a hard time seeing the benefits of this versus a clutch type 1.5 way. I daily my car, but I also take it out to the road course at least twice a year and canyon carve as often as possible. Is this enough rear end for a daily and amateur driver who's sick of his vlsd?
A Helical (gear type) differential like Quaife, Z1 Street Pro, or Wavetrac is more than up to the task for street duty and occasional road course. A clutch type differential is more aggressive by nature, which most prefer for track use but can be a little overwhelming for a street car. Clutch type differentials experience axle bind/chatter when making tight turns at low speed and that in itself is enough to turn most people off. They also require special fluids and more maintenance when compared to a gear type. Ultimately it comes down to preference, based on what you're describing it seems like a helical differential like Quaife or Z1 Street Pro would suit you best.
Hey guys, is there anyone that has posted a “do it yourself” guide of swapping this out in a base diff? Really curious to see if it is something I want to attempt.. Thanks as always, you guys are awesome.
If you are new to differential assembly this is generally not something we recommend people attempt on their Z's or G's. In order to install this you have to remove the ring & pinion gears, when reinstalling you will need a dial gauge and the correct shims (among many other things) to properly set backlash and gear mesh. We always recommend using a reputable driveline shop for LSD installs, we also offer fully built differentials for ease of install. Installing a fully assembled diff is a cake walk. www.z1motorsports.com/transmission-driveline/z1-motorsports/z1-motorsports-fully-built-differential-p-9075.html
Z1Motorsports so there is hope that you will stock them in the near future? I am looking to sending you my base 7AT core. In terms of low speed noise around parking lots and stuff does this diff “clunk”? Or is as quiet as the open diff in my car? I saw the tomei one in a video and it’s rather noisy. My application would be street drivability and some track days.
We do expect that in the future we will be able to stock them again, unfortunately when that will happen is hard to know. The quaife is a very tame differential, and doesn't make any noise or unnecessary clunking at low speed. Wavetrac does offer a differential that is comparable in operation and quality (linked below). www.z1motorsports.com/transmission-driveline/wavetrac/wavetrac-limited-slip-differential-lsd-p-9675.html
Hi, i'm a bit confused about fitment for the replacement of an Open Diff with one of these in an automatic car. In exemple, a G37 7AT have a FDR of 3.357 so it asks for an Automatic Quaife Carrier. On the other hand, the G35 5AT have a FDR of 3.692 wich is the same than the 6MT transmission, does it mean that it asks for a Quaife Manual Carrier? THanks!
For gears that are available we follow the general reference in the gear ratio chart: www.z1motorsports.com/upload/Z1350ZG35370ZG37GearRatios.pdf --- If a gear in the first year matches all the other "auto" ratios it is actually classed and fitted as a "auto" diff ie a first year G 3.357 should all be on an "auto" flanged carrier (even in the 1st year G35 manual trans coupe). A 3.692 ratio is classed as a manual always and will need the manual carrier (ex 08 G). To further complicate matters some 07-08 year (V36) Gen II G's with autos are equipped with the 3 bolt rubber coupling. This coupling between driveshaft and differential companion flange is suspended by a stem on the gear and the diff uses a 3 bolt companion flange unlike all other 4 bolt companion flanges. To make a diff and ratio upgrade you have to make a change to the driveshaft and to a manual companion flange. If you're unsure you can always supply your VIN to Z1 and we can verify if it needs this change or not.
@Agenthutchins Nissan messed up that whole thing quite nicely! But yeah, i'll make you a little resume of my situation.... I have a 2010 G37X Coupe (3.357FDR), i've bought the complete diff assembly front & rear of a G35X 2008 because it shares the same input flange on the rear diff than my stock differential, although it's geared 3.692 and that's the reason why i bought the front and rear set, to do a complete ratio swap on an AWD, front diff share smae flange and everything... ...but that is not a matter. I don't have access to the VIN number of the car that the G35X rear diff was in... ...although i currently have the whole diff assembly apart so i have access to the actual markings on the carrier. Could that be used to know if i need a AT or MT LSD carrier?
Can you call me here at the office 770-838-7777, I would like to exchange email and some photos of parts to see if we can get you sorted. Don't get may AWD's here in the south but I would love to see this come together.
Well! I think we sorted it, that is some good news for the G/Z community, more compatibility options. Spencer, i'll make sure to have a talk with you prior to put my LSD diff order in.
With these type of torsen diffs, when do they lock up completely? Is the initial torque fairly small for a stock engine? I drive a route at times where the tight corners , with crown roads, leave one wheel completely off the ground because of minimal droop in my rear suspension setup. Would these work for complete lock up under half throttle or should I just go with clutch type 1.5way?
If you are lifting a wheel a clutch type will really be ideal. If you get stopped you will have slight delay with something like the OSG from a stop if one is airborne but it will lock after. Wavetrack is supposedly preloaded under some pressure and their marketing is such that the airborne issue is removed compared to Quaife. As far as lock up goes, comparable feel would be something between 1-1.5 but they work on a torque bias ratio rather than % and initial torque lock up rating in reference to the distribution of power. Lockup can be considered complete under power when both wheels have some level of traction but it may not be a 50/50 split on power always. In reality though the drivability for most on the street and even some track is exceptional and they have a very predictable behavior should that be well under the limit of traction or exceeding it.
Agenthutchins thank you for your response. Fairly new at fine tuning a LSD..I think I might go with the cusco 1.5 way from you guys or send my core in and have it serviced with the high cap diff cover for the 370z
It really at best is a compromised but intermediate traction aid over open for desired noiseless street operation in RWD vehicle. It will be disappointing in any advanced motorsport scenario. your laptime will 0.5-1.5 sec slower. You will get inside wheel spin even with wheel on ground. If you have any desire to get most out of yourself and car, you need a 1.5/2.0
You guys have really done a good job at increasing your video uploads, very awesome.
I went this route on my 370z a few years ago and have absolutely loved it! What Spencer is describing about corner entry and exit is spot on with this diff. The only negative that I've experienced so far is that when one wheel comes off the ground as when I try to get into my driveway at an angle, this diff operates just like an open differential and it doesn't help me get into the driveway like some of the other options would. The wavetrac is supposed to fix this specific issue and if I had known about about it at the time I would probably have strongly considered it. I don't regret the decision though because this specific scenario doesn't affect the car when it's actually being driven.
Matt Wong I'm also considering this diff for my Z, in terms of low speed noise how quiet is it? Does it clunk in parking lots?
I'm surprised nobody has stated this(and maybe the video does, I'm not done yet) but when what you described happens, one wheel off the ground, if you apply the ebrake gently it gives the quaife enough bite on the spinning wheel to transfer torque to the other one and get you unstuck. I agree that is the biggest con however it does have what I described above as an option to fix it. So at least you are not stuck in that position.
Had one of these on my MR2, totally loved it. Super streetable for a daily.
Was it durable? I wanna put one in a genny coupe which means it would be working alot
When do we get to see Austin in a video???? Good jobs guys I'm hearing nothing but great things about you from any and every one I speak to. Keep it up.
Thanks again for this series, I ordered a Wavetrac and a lot of order parts I needed yesterday. Joel was awesome ( hope I got the name right😅)
Hello, I am trying to get a diff that will allow my 370z to drift a lot easier but also have drive ability without excess noise. Would this be suitable or would the z1 street pro be a better option?
Quafie diffs are okay for drifting, they honestly do very well but are not the best for it and are more for road racing with a sprinkle of drifting. Watch some videos people lay down 2 tire tracks no problem. However if your goal is to drift and you plan on doing it a lot then find a clutch type diff, how aggressive you want them is your choice. You can also choose between 1.5 way and 2 way and all that, again depending how aggressive you want it to be. If it is a drift car 100% of the time go 2 way clutch. You will dislike it on the street most likely.
RE: Gen 2 Viper: How can you effectively pick the right differential without actually trying one? That is the question. Perhaps the statement, "Makes the car easier to control in adverse traction conditions." might be a good qualitative one - especially when Gen 2 Vipers can be quite difficult. ALSO, differences between the various gear-type diffs.
Great video. What diff oil would you recommend for this diff?
Amsoil atf
Hello, will this diff be good for "off roading"? I live on a dirt and gravel hill and never thought my G37 would struggle soo bad to go up hill without one wheel breaking traction all the time with the stock open diff.
My 1991 front wheel drive nissan maxima with open diff does just fine. But I want to be able to enjoy the G37 without the nightmares of having to dive it back up home 😅
AHHH I think I should have gotten the infiniti FX50 instead
Thanks for the vid. We endurance race a 350Z in Champcar. Heat is the enemy in endurance racing. Would these produce less heat than clutch type LSDs? I know these don't have the same level of lock up as clutch types, but that's fine for our use if they would be durable for endurance racing. Thanks for you thoughts!
So, I am feeling the sadness of an old vlsd in my car. It feels almost entirely open these days after 85k miles. I'm having a hard time seeing the benefits of this versus a clutch type 1.5 way. I daily my car, but I also take it out to the road course at least twice a year and canyon carve as often as possible. Is this enough rear end for a daily and amateur driver who's sick of his vlsd?
A Helical (gear type) differential like Quaife, Z1 Street Pro, or Wavetrac is more than up to the task for street duty and occasional road course.
A clutch type differential is more aggressive by nature, which most prefer for track use but can be a little overwhelming for a street car. Clutch type differentials experience axle bind/chatter when making tight turns at low speed and that in itself is enough to turn most people off. They also require special fluids and more maintenance when compared to a gear type.
Ultimately it comes down to preference, based on what you're describing it seems like a helical differential like Quaife or Z1 Street Pro would suit you best.
Who else pronounced it wrong? I can’t be the only one
UHPdriver kah-way-ef
UHPdriver "who else pronounced it wrong?"......... er the guy in this video 😂 I put it down to regional dialect. However you say it I want one 😁
Pussy fart.
Hey guys, is there anyone that has posted a “do it yourself” guide of swapping this out in a base diff? Really curious to see if it is something I want to attempt.. Thanks as always, you guys are awesome.
If you are new to differential assembly this is generally not something we recommend people attempt on their Z's or G's. In order to install this you have to remove the ring & pinion gears, when reinstalling you will need a dial gauge and the correct shims (among many other things) to properly set backlash and gear mesh. We always recommend using a reputable driveline shop for LSD installs, we also offer fully built differentials for ease of install. Installing a fully assembled diff is a cake walk.
www.z1motorsports.com/transmission-driveline/z1-motorsports/z1-motorsports-fully-built-differential-p-9075.html
Did you guys stop selling the quafie diff? It says product not found when I click on the link in the description.
Unfortunately, they aren't currently available in the US so we opted to pull them down for the time being until availability is better.
Z1Motorsports so there is hope that you will stock them in the near future? I am looking to sending you my base 7AT core. In terms of low speed noise around parking lots and stuff does this diff “clunk”? Or is as quiet as the open diff in my car? I saw the tomei one in a video and it’s rather noisy. My application would be street drivability and some track days.
We do expect that in the future we will be able to stock them again, unfortunately when that will happen is hard to know. The quaife is a very tame differential, and doesn't make any noise or unnecessary clunking at low speed. Wavetrac does offer a differential that is comparable in operation and quality (linked below).
www.z1motorsports.com/transmission-driveline/wavetrac/wavetrac-limited-slip-differential-lsd-p-9675.html
I've got a g37 7at rwd sport. Can I buy this part and install it in my diff or do I need a different pumpkin
What fluid do you run with it?
Clicked the link and it says product not found. .
Sorry Johnny, the Quaife is currently not available, we're working on getting them back in stock again soon.
Hi, i'm a bit confused about fitment for the replacement of an Open Diff with one of these in an automatic car.
In exemple, a G37 7AT have a FDR of 3.357 so it asks for an Automatic Quaife Carrier.
On the other hand, the G35 5AT have a FDR of 3.692 wich is the same than the 6MT transmission, does it mean that it asks for a Quaife Manual Carrier?
THanks!
For gears that are available we follow the general reference in the gear ratio chart: www.z1motorsports.com/upload/Z1350ZG35370ZG37GearRatios.pdf --- If a gear in the first year matches all the other "auto" ratios it is actually classed and fitted as a "auto" diff ie a first year G 3.357 should all be on an "auto" flanged carrier (even in the 1st year G35 manual trans coupe). A 3.692 ratio is classed as a manual always and will need the manual carrier (ex 08 G). To further complicate matters some 07-08 year (V36) Gen II G's with autos are equipped with the 3 bolt rubber coupling. This coupling between driveshaft and differential companion flange is suspended by a stem on the gear and the diff uses a 3 bolt companion flange unlike all other 4 bolt companion flanges. To make a diff and ratio upgrade you have to make a change to the driveshaft and to a manual companion flange. If you're unsure you can always supply your VIN to Z1 and we can verify if it needs this change or not.
@Agenthutchins
Nissan messed up that whole thing quite nicely! But yeah, i'll make you a little resume of my situation....
I have a 2010 G37X Coupe (3.357FDR), i've bought the complete diff assembly front & rear of a G35X 2008 because it shares the same input flange on the rear diff than my stock differential, although it's geared 3.692 and that's the reason why i bought the front and rear set, to do a complete ratio swap on an AWD, front diff share smae flange and everything... ...but that is not a matter.
I don't have access to the VIN number of the car that the G35X rear diff was in... ...although i currently have the whole diff assembly apart so i have access to the actual markings on the carrier. Could that be used to know if i need a AT or MT LSD carrier?
Can you call me here at the office 770-838-7777, I would like to exchange email and some photos of parts to see if we can get you sorted. Don't get may AWD's here in the south but I would love to see this come together.
Well! I think we sorted it, that is some good news for the G/Z community, more compatibility options.
Spencer, i'll make sure to have a talk with you prior to put my LSD diff order in.
So this diff is better as to not feel that wheel hop in the back along with the awkward looks at the parking lot?😂
Yes, being a Helical type differential, it does not cause axle bind (no loud clunking or popping when turning in the parking lot.)
i need a new diff asap.
With these type of torsen diffs, when do they lock up completely? Is the initial torque fairly small for a stock engine? I drive a route at times where the tight corners , with crown roads, leave one wheel completely off the ground because of minimal droop in my rear suspension setup. Would these work for complete lock up under half throttle or should I just go with clutch type 1.5way?
If you are lifting a wheel a clutch type will really be ideal. If you get stopped you will have slight delay with something like the OSG from a stop if one is airborne but it will lock after. Wavetrack is supposedly preloaded under some pressure and their marketing is such that the airborne issue is removed compared to Quaife. As far as lock up goes, comparable feel would be something between 1-1.5 but they work on a torque bias ratio rather than % and initial torque lock up rating in reference to the distribution of power. Lockup can be considered complete under power when both wheels have some level of traction but it may not be a 50/50 split on power always. In reality though the drivability for most on the street and even some track is exceptional and they have a very predictable behavior should that be well under the limit of traction or exceeding it.
Agenthutchins thank you for your response. Fairly new at fine tuning a LSD..I think I might go with the cusco 1.5 way from you guys or send my core in and have it serviced with the high cap diff cover for the 370z
It really at best is a compromised but intermediate traction aid over open for desired noiseless street operation in RWD vehicle. It will be disappointing in any advanced motorsport scenario. your laptime will 0.5-1.5 sec slower. You will get inside wheel spin even with wheel on ground. If you have any desire to get most out of yourself and car, you need a 1.5/2.0
Is clutch type and helical LSD are same
No, clutch type and helical differentials are completely different in build and operation.
How does the Wavetrac compare to this in terms of reliability?
They match each other in quality from our experience. We have yet to have a reliability issues from either.
Agenthutchins Thanks for the reply. Really appreciate it.
Do i need to shim my diff on install?
Yes. In order to install an aftermarket limited slip differential, shims are required to ensure ring and pinion are set up properly.
quay-f he-lick-al hahaha
First