Great vid! Drill the holes on the side of the cooler lid and fill from there. Less holes. Fill those columns like beer glasses! Plus no insulation exposed to your food/drinks/ice
I used to work with the industrial packaging version of the expanding foam. One of the ways we prevented foam from sticking was to use vegetable spray. Can't guarantee that would work for this purpose with this foam, but it might save a lot of heartache trying to scrape away the residue inside the cooler lid. Great video.
Yes, vegetable spray would work. I use baby oil and castor oil on my arms before I do any painting or great stuff so I could see vegetable oil spray would be quite easy to use.
@@Billybob-go8hn LOL, yup. Unfortunately, it doesn't work as well trying to pick it off clothing. Got some stuck on coveralls 15 yrs ago, and it still won't come off.
Also when you buy a cooler thats "supose" to be fully insulated, put it in a very dark room with a flashlight closed up in it and you will see parts of it shining thru indicating where the foam has voids. Then do this trick to fill the voids.
the spray foam comes in 2 different expansion types, one is the regular type. it expands to 5 times, the one you need is the type you use around windows and doors.it is a minimal expansion form. this prevents cracking from too much expansion.
As a ticketed insulator please wait 48hrs before putting that lid back on and filling your cooler with food so the chemicals in the foam gas off. Very important!
Yes - what this guy said... not sure if anybody said it, but a little bit of denatured alcohol or paint thinner (depending on foam type) should clean up any remainder pretty quickly
Did that with my lunch pail years ago. The lid wouldn't stay on and the foam tightened it up. Had a Yeti tumbler that didn't live up to the price. Smart idea! Thanks
Coat the lid in painters tape before drilling the holes and filling with foam makes for a super easy clean up and nicer looking final results. Nice vid!
Precool your icebox before going camping. Freeze up some water bottles two days before and use one half of the bottles to drop the temp in your cooler. So when you are ready to go you can take out the precooler bottles and put fresh fully frozen ones in and then drinks and food. Will prevent the ice you take with you having to do so much work to cool down the room temp cooler.
Friend of mine lives in his van. He encased a regular cooler in 2" blue insulation board, with a removable lid. Works really well. He also has two deep cycle batteries that recharge when he drives and run lights and TV in the evening.
@@armandomendoza3167Hi. I don't but a long time. That blue 2" foam board has an R value of 10. If you had the space you could double the foam to 4", R value 20.
@@armandomendoza3167 At places like Home Depot and Menard's and similar stores there is only one brand of blue board insulation. There is also pink but it has a lower R value.
@@brucewilson1958 I still thank you for your valuable time. I'm gathering ideas for a friend that lives in a reservation. Only thing she has is an ice chest. Was thinking of an enclosed box to help keep cool her ice chest. Only major city is 30 minute drive. Thank you for your time and help. Be blessed.
just finished watching another youtube vid RIGHT BEFORE this one... guy bought two same cheap coolers and treated just one with foam in the lid. He did a 10lb ice in both, put them in his dark tinted windowed jeep for a day, checked next day, THE FOAM ONE HAD NO ice left the other was colder and had some ice left. He took off the mod (he also added a rubber seal inside the lip to seal it even try upping the cooling seal,) tried it again and same result. ONLY FOAM LID ADDITION showed worse results, like not even close, it was obviously a downgrade in performance. General comments were that the air pockets in the lid are more important than foam filling, that somehow the foam transfers heat in faster than air pockets (think double pane windows that have the air gap in between, not foam ((Duh lol)) what WOULD be good I imagine, is being able to foam closer to the ice contact source down along the sides and bottom, but he said there didnt seem to be any way to get foam in, there seemed to be foam in OEM. I was about to leave the house to pick up some and do mine, since my coleman is horrifically bad even compared to a couple bux cheap fragile all foam coolers... (the best one I got is an organ cooler ie. was used by medical industry and 'retired'. There were no organs in it, the only reason I offered to take it) That lil thing can only do 3 cans of beer if laid flat, and the other 3 on top those plus the ice needed, but it stays iced for days before needing top up ice. Something better about those all foam medical organ carriers... I think I will go for foil wrap insulator (hot water pipe style or the bubblefoil barrier, forgot the name/application) kind and just sacrifice a bit of the interior capacity of the thing instead. Anything is better than having new ice melted before I even get the 5 hr drive to the mtns done... Seems the value of air spacing for a barrier is under appreciated nowadays.
I did test it here: ua-cam.com/video/EQhpwtqERgE/v-deo.html , which is linked at the end of the video, in the description and the pinned comment….. but hey, let’s scroll past all that and resurrect two year old comments instead…
@@nami2918 Don't bother. The test wasn't scientific at all. Listen to B Sc's comment. In the linked video he took 3 different coolers. Not 2 identical coolers then modded one to test against a control.
I found if you put the blue masking tape where you're going to drill the holes, cleanup is a lot easier. After the foam dries simply pull off the dried foam by pulling off the tape. Make sure you tape well beyond where you plan to drill. Try it
I just insulated two cooler lids. Thanks for the tip! I wanted a way to seal the holes used for the injection. Decided to use appropriately sized pop rivets. Also, drilled through the sides and top so I wouldn’t interact with the food surfaces. Seems to have worked well. :)
I would just dab in some E-6000 or Gorilla Glue equivalent. It's non hardening and you can roll your fingers to remove the residue. You can rub off the excess "overspray" on the lid as easily. Let it partially cure and it comes off nice 'n rubber like.
As someone thats looked into hundred+ dollar coolers...thank you so much for this. As someone that wants to camp for a weekend or two weeks, this will make things so much easier.
Gotta admit, love how you don’t buy into the whole “Be a trendy hipster” attitude. So many people think that they must compete and buy overpriced garbage, when they can make something so inexpensive just as effective and useful. Good job!
I just did this to my cooler last week before a camping trip. Helped a lot to keep the ice from melting. Also Acetone worked well to get it off quickly. Great Video
Drill the holes on the edges of the lid where it makes contact with the cooler then cover them with a nice adhesive thin foam strip for a double duty of sealing the holes and sealing the air around the lid ..with the tube on the spray foam you can still reach the center easily.
I find that if I just use double-sided tape and stick aluminum foil to the inside of my cooler, it extends the life of my ice for an additional day or two.
I reuse some heavy duty Mylar packaging material that came in a box of cold goods. Just cut it to the size of the cooler and lay it across the interior top. Really holds in the cold. But I’m doing this expanding foam hack.
@An idiot... Correct. The air gap acts as a better insulated medium than the spray foam. If you want to make a mod that works, get the pink insulation boards, cut it to fit the bottom, sides and make a “lid” that all fit inside the body of the cooler. Simple, removable and it actually works because there are still air gaps in the existing structure of the cooler.
Great vid! Another mod I would suggest would be to affix UV reflective window film (or similar such as aluminum foil) to cover the lid. Your cooler may be in the shade when you place it, but that status can change, often beneath notice.
you are hilarious! omg...I filled my cooler wit" "great stuff about" 10 yrs ago still in fabulous shape and I keep mine cold almost a week on 1 small 7# ice bag. when i fill my cooler i put the ice bag standing in the center and put all the cold foods around it, never put in room temp stuff to get cold (start out w/ everything cold). yay! glad to see others doing this
We lived in a drafty mobile home for a few years and did a lot of spray foaming while we were there. I can’t remember if it was peroxide or rubbing alcohol (I believe it was peroxide) but if you get spray foam on your skin rub some peroxide and fast orange (for the pumice) on the area and it cleans up so much easier. Thanks for the cooler tips, gonna go play in the spray foam for a while before we head to the river. Now I’m wondering about making flotation devices with spray foam, hmmm.
I did this on my last 3 coolers. Did the top and bottom of the last. Just tap the besides you'll be able to tell where the insulation stops and you can fill in. Fun video thanks
We use "CRC BRAKE CLEANER" at work to get it off your skin but you do have only minutes to get it cleaned off so keep it close by. The foam still has to be soft to remove it. Once it gets hard and sets up it's permanent and you have to wear it off.
Absolutely worked. Before I did this, the ice melts in about 12 hours sitting outside or on a boat. With this simple insulation trick, the ice lasted around 24-26 hours. When I used blocks of ice instead of cubes, it even lasted longer at 30 hours. The PAM trick is right on target, the waste came right off. Also did the new Stainless Steel hinges from Amazon and this cooler is around for quite a few more years. Thanks...
We were going to make a video of this at the boatyard, because we're sick of those overpriced coolers too. I'm glad you did. Now we can resume screwing off instead.
I used spray foam on my Coleman cooler about 25 years ago, long before Yetti came out and rally worked well! I drilled a lot more holes. I did it to the whole cooler, sides and top
Before spraying in the foam, I apply a generous coat of paste wax to the lid surfaces. The excess foam wont adhere to the lid surface. I then drill the fill holes out and fill with silicone.
Another way to improve your coolers ability to hold ice is to use "reflectec" to make a "wrap to cover the cooler. We also line the inside with the same material. Although this seems like a fish story we can improve the ice holding ability to one week. We use this method when we go north into Canada to fish. Reflectex is basically bubble wrap sandwiched in shiny foil on both sides. Heating and Air conditioning contractors use this material.
I bought several Coleman Extreme coolers over 15 years ago for less than $20 each. BEST coolers I have ever owned! I don't believe a YETI would even come close to that kind of VALUE!
Not all containers are created evenly. I would suggest you get the brightest flashlight you can find and place it inside the ice chest at night. Now look at the outside for light bleed through from areas in the chest that may not be properly insulated. If the store will let you this is a good way to pick out a good cooler off the shelf. If you want a quick easy cooler that'll keep ice cold for days then find a styrofoam cooler that will just fit inside your ice chest and place the ice in it. My last suggestion for long lasting ice is buy or make solid blocks of ice. Out in the bay in summer heat I can melt forty pounds of ice in a day or put ten pounds of block ice in it's place and still have ice left at the end of the day.
I will definately try this! For a quicker process, add some water: "Dampen for Fast Curing. Expanding polyurethane foam sealant requires moisture to expand and cure. If you're applying foam to dry wood or other dry surfaces, or working on a day with little humidity, misting the area first will help the foam expand and cure faster".
I have that same cooler, but a different colour. I have had it about the same length of time, and I think this is a super idea!I also use a space blanket to wrap it in. That alone, and keeping it in the shade (and not letting anyone else open it) keeps it properly cold for easily 5 days, so with the spray- in insulation, it should last us for most of our 2-week wilderness canoe trips. Thanks!!
that is what i do also.. but even doing that, and having dry ice inside.. I still could not get Blue Bell from texas to the west coast .. to my baby who LOVEs it. :( melted into liquid. :(
Very cool. I was concerned that the foam would expand beyond it's parameters and bloat the lid, but I can see that it didn't do that here for you. I imagine that it might if the walls of the cooler were really flimsy, or perhaps not. thanks again for demonstrating this. I always wanted to do this exact thing. .... Also, I am going to tackle this project but I will add a piece of double sided radiant barrier foam insulation to mine. Reflectix makes one, but the one I will use is a roofing underlayment replacement called "Low E."
I have a big 5 day Colman cooler for $39 new, if the items are already cold before loading the cooler. It works fine. Just drain the water in the morning. I'll have try the foam.
I have their 70qt MaxCold roller cubes. love those things. They're insulated top to bottom. solid hinges, solid heavy plastic construction (can stand on them with no flex), and they keep things frozen rock hard for at least 2 days. I have not had to test them any longer since that's my max travel/flight time home.
That was a good idea to make the cooler last longer but it is just the lid. How much difference will that actually make. If you did a side by side comparison it would make this video a lot more informative.
A lot. Great stuff has an r value of about 6 per inch. Granted it's really adding against the protection of soon beating down on the lid and warming up the air inside
I made one of these years ago and kept it out of sight did not want anyone to know I could not afford the yeti and I still have it-should have done a video.
I have often thought of doing this. A before and after ice melt test would convince me if it was worth it. Also Yetis and other thermoplastic molded coolers usually have an air tight gasket which helps with cooling efficiency.
I quickly looked through the comments but I was suprised to see that no one knows the REAL way to get rid of spray foam! ACETONE! just wait for it to harden, and wipe it down with one of your wives little face pads or a cloth, works perfectly for skin too! Also I might suggest window foam, it has a softer expansion than gap filler, same price but it wont warp your lid at all! Great video!
Get some moving blankets. Throw over the top of the cooler under a nice shaded area. This helps keep the heat out, kids and other critters. My bear proofing is not camping in bear areas.
Fill from outside. Also blue tape the hell out of it, and then drill the holes and fill. Once the foam dries, just peel off the tape. No chisel or wire brush needed.
Great stuff is a urethane foam with an R value / inch of 3.7-4.5 range. Better than nothing, but closed cell urethane can get you into the mid 6's / inch of thickness. Yeti's total envelope is ~ R6 I think (not per inch. Total insulative value). - Heat transfer through the walls i.. decent... but the material is so thick that a fair bit of heat wicks around the foam and through the plastic. There is also very little to no irradiative barrier in the yeti or coleman coolers. If you want to see a awesome (non consumer) cooler, look up Vacuum insulation panel shippers. They are used in pharma and bio. The yeti has an R of ~6 A decent themal shipper made from VIP's will be 1" thick walls, and have an R value of 40.
@@DoItYourselfDad to prevent the air from moving. It's not the filler material that insolates it's the trapped bubbles inside the foam. in fact the insolator material conducts heat so the denser the insolator (the more used) the less effective so long that enough is used to prevent air movement
@@DGDRamped ummm?.. The air inside the top of a cooler will match the temperature of the surrounding ambient temp, imagine the sun beating down on the top of a cooler lid, it will be scorching on top and inside the lid. The lids of cheap coolers is the biggest issue. Insulation provides a barrier between 2 areas. Hence why they insulate houses in cold climates.
This is cool. I’m totally going to try this on my 16qt cooler. Another note, for 3d printing people should check their local library. I know our local libraries have several for free public use. You just need to take a their safety class.
Can not stress how difficult spray foam is to clean up, especially after it cures. Water helps it expand too. Finally, the loctite version is better than greatstuff
I have a Yeti. Got at a discount from someone I know at a marina. Works good especially if you precool it. When I travel 300 miles one way every other month I use a cheaper cooler and cover/ wrap it with an old blanket. Does a decent job.
You could also put painter's tape where you intend to drill holes before drilling, cover with a sheet of plastic, cut holes in the plastic corresponding to the tape, place another piece of tape to stick the plastic to the base layer of tape, drill your holes, fill with foam, wait for it to dry, and now your foam is stuck to your plastic film instead of the lid.
I think the Yeti' and such are meant for Long trips, RVers, and tiny homers, living in vans etc instead of buying a fridge freezer. They are delighted with them.
I have this same cooler, its primary benefit being it is the largest cooler I have that fits through the trunk opening of my Subaru BRZ. Performance (the cooler, not the car) has always been lacking. I may have to try this.
If this was filled from only one hole, or also covering up the hole/s as you spray, the foam will have no where to go as it expands, thus warping the lid, making it useless......
Make sure you drill enough holes to vent the foam as it explands. I didn't drill enough, and my lid expanded in the middle, bowed and ruined the cooler completely.
The holes wouldn't have prevented that. The red can expands at will even destructively that's why your instructed to only fill 50 percent of the void and not fill voids you can't see. The blue can is a few bucks more but far more forgiving. The cell structure for the blue can is different though so it's much more likely to sponge up water. Closed cell vs open cell
Yo Daguy Yeti’s and Engle’s work great...as long as you’re not opening and closing them all day. If so then they’re just as inefficient as a cheap cooler. Now if you’re packing things in and don’t open the lids they’re good for close to 48hrs or more...
totally awesome, i did the same but i did not make that many holes , 1 at each end of your lid 2 in the center as bleed off holes and to re-seal the holes plastic hole plugs with a sealant that turns to rubber , NOTE: mine was constructed from the out side same concept, great vid. Kelvin
@@williamnelson2942 I'll do that! It won't be Corona either, us Hillbillies like the cheap beer. Ha! Rolling Rock, Nat Light, PBR..... Save the over priced stuff for you yuppies.
Great idea on insulating the lid. I was hoping for a test and comparison with one of the big boys though! If you tested it, can you share how much better your coleman performed than before the extra insulation? Thanks! Keep the DIY stuff comin'! Thumbs up! NVRMND!! Just saw Part 2!!!! Thanks!
My guess is it will give you a bit longer. The quality and thickness of roto molded coolers is by far better. For regular camping this would work. For my week long rafting trips I need those expensive coolers
You may think you need the expensive ones. I did a six day trip with a cooler the same as in the video, but without insulating the lid. I still had water that I couldn't drink on the way home because it was still frozen. 🤷♂️
Totally love that bear proofing. I bet that it works, 100% in several jurisdictions around this country where bears don't likely exist anyway. Nice work, Sir.
Doing it from the inside allows you to see all the places you intend to drill without having to extrapolate the locations from the inside to the outside. Spraying, taping etc. is not so much work for saving yourself all the labor that Dad guy went to for cleanup.
Rather than let the foam expand out of the holes. I used to tape over the holes to produce a denser foam, which produced a better insulation and better distribution. Once the pressure becomes too great, the foam expands and pushes the tape off. But then you definitely know the insulation is well and truly filled all voids.
Denser does not create better insulation the point of insulation is to trap multiple pockets of air. Denser foam equals less air. There's a reason that when the insulate homes they don't over stuff the insulation, it reduces the r value.
@@Eliwhygul772 Yeah, I think you're right. Heat/cold transfers easily through a solid medium, but it is very difficult for either to through still air. You need just the right amount of insulation to air ratio, I think.
Loved you ghetto Yeti. I would like to know how long it takes for a chunk of ice to melt before and after (same weight for each of course). Now I need to test, create one and test again. :) Thanks for the quick leason.
Nice, I have the same cooler and have it for around 15+ years also. Strange thing is that I was just cleaning out some Cabinets and I found two cans of that foam thing and a few hours later, this shows up on my UA-cam recommendations :o/ Thanks again for a great Idea. Yeti is Seriously Over Priced.
Yetis and similar type expensive coolers have far superior performance, but most people really don't need that, plus they hold less due to their thickness and they're heavier, so they're not worth the cost for overnight or short weekend type trips. But for long trips or hot conditions, yeti blows these things out of the water
I've got a great tip. I put a cooler inside the cooler for a freezer unit. No joke. I was able to keep ice for 6 days in the "freezer" compartment. Now, I'll have to admit that both inner and outer coolers were also being stored inside an antique refrigerator that was unplugged. I assume that old 1927 fridge had some sort of insulation left. Not much though, because before the thermostat went, it always felt cold on the outside. But I'm glad you posted the video, because now I have the courage to give this a try. I'd been thinking it would work for a few years already. Now that my husband ordered a bunch of Omaha steaks, I have that cooler (which works better- ha) as a backup.
I've got a cooler I insulated thirty years ago. Still keeps things cooler than the original did, but not to the level of a Yeti or an Rtech cooler. Rtechs are just like a Yeti but half the cost.
Great vid!
Drill the holes on the side of the cooler lid and fill from there. Less holes. Fill those columns like beer glasses! Plus no insulation exposed to your food/drinks/ice
this is what I did and worked great
Put some masking tape over /around the holes for easier cleanup
How many holes should you drill? And where on the sides?
Brilliant 👏🏼
I used vaseline around holes after I drilled them before foam to keep foam from sticking.
That’s what she said!
@@winzerwithaz lmbo
@@winzerwithaz lmao 😂😂😂
I use Vaseline around the holes too 😉
This man DIY's
I used to work with the industrial packaging version of the expanding foam. One of the ways we prevented foam from sticking was to use vegetable spray. Can't guarantee that would work for this purpose with this foam, but it might save a lot of heartache trying to scrape away the residue inside the cooler lid. Great video.
Great tip.
Yes, vegetable spray would work. I use baby oil and castor oil on my arms before I do any painting or great stuff so I could see vegetable oil spray would be quite easy to use.
@@WVgrl59 be a man pick it from your skin like the rest of us
Same idea came to mind. Maybe coating the spray with flour would prevent it from sticking at all.
@@Billybob-go8hn LOL, yup. Unfortunately, it doesn't work as well trying to pick it off clothing. Got some stuck on coveralls 15 yrs ago, and it still won't come off.
Also when you buy a cooler thats "supose" to be fully insulated, put it in a very dark room with a flashlight closed up in it and you will see parts of it shining thru indicating where the foam has voids. Then do this trick to fill the voids.
💡👀🧠
Wow Nice, flash-light idea is great ! You get The No Bell Surprize for that suggestion !!!
If light can get through that means heat can get in and the cold ice and cold temperature can escape out of every little spot light shines through
*supposed
Shades of Thermal Imaging.
the spray foam comes in 2 different expansion types, one is the regular type. it expands to 5 times, the one you need is the type you use around windows and doors.it is a minimal expansion form. this prevents cracking from too much expansion.
What is that one called?
I think it actually says “windows and doors” on it
What size drill do you use to drill holes in top
As small as possible while still being able to insert the provided straw. There isn’t one set size
As a ticketed insulator please wait 48hrs before putting that lid back on and filling your cooler with food so the chemicals in the foam gas off. Very important!
When I did this I waited 2 weeks before even thinking about putting any food in there.! I could still smell the stuff after a week.
Ticketed insulator aye. Yeah this guy slings the CC YEAHH!
I was wondering about that. Thanks
Spray the bottom of the lid with PAM before foaming. Comes clean off
I am 5 minutes in to the video and had the same thought about Pam and the lid!
Me too
Mee Three.
Me 4
huh .. better than my plastic idea!
PAM cooking spray on the interior of the lid makes pealing the extra foam off SO much easier.
I was just about to say... good one Thomas.
Yes - what this guy said... not sure if anybody said it, but a little bit of denatured alcohol or paint thinner (depending on foam type) should clean up any remainder pretty quickly
I wiped mine with a little wax 🙂plane automobile wax😕worked Awesome..
@@paulbetka2966 you have a plane automobile??? Welcome to the chat, Mr. Bond🤣
THIS!!!!!!!!
Did that with my lunch pail years ago. The lid wouldn't stay on and the foam tightened it up. Had a Yeti tumbler that didn't live up to the price. Smart idea! Thanks
Coat the lid in painters tape before drilling the holes and filling with foam makes for a super easy clean up and nicer looking final results. Nice vid!
Love these ideas guys 👍😁
Precool your icebox before going camping. Freeze up some water bottles two days before and use one half of the bottles to drop the temp in your cooler. So when you are ready to go you can take out the precooler bottles and put fresh fully frozen ones in and then drinks and food.
Will prevent the ice you take with you having to do so much work to cool down the room temp cooler.
You are a moron too. Please explain the theory of “ICE HAVE TO WORK OVERTIME” .
Please do the world a favor an go away..
Have a STROKE SOON…
Friend of mine lives in his van. He encased a regular cooler in 2" blue insulation board, with a removable lid. Works really well. He also has two deep cycle batteries that recharge when he drives and run lights and TV in the evening.
Do you know how longer does it stay cooler?
@@armandomendoza3167Hi. I don't but a long time. That blue 2" foam board has an R value of 10. If you had the space you could double the foam to 4", R value 20.
@@brucewilson1958 Do you remember what name brand was the blue foam board?.
@@armandomendoza3167 At places like Home Depot and Menard's and similar stores there is only one brand of blue board insulation. There is also pink but it has a lower R value.
@@brucewilson1958 I still thank you for your valuable time. I'm gathering ideas for a friend that lives in a reservation. Only thing she has is an ice chest. Was thinking of an enclosed box to help keep cool her ice chest. Only major city is 30 minute drive. Thank you for your time and help. Be blessed.
I'd love to see a follow up video where you test it's insulation properties before and after
just finished watching another youtube vid RIGHT BEFORE this one... guy bought two same cheap coolers and treated just one with foam in the lid.
He did a 10lb ice in both, put them in his dark tinted windowed jeep for a day, checked next day, THE FOAM ONE HAD NO ice left the other was colder and had some ice left. He took off the mod (he also added a rubber seal inside the lip to seal it even try upping the cooling seal,) tried it again and same result.
ONLY FOAM LID ADDITION showed worse results, like not even close, it was obviously a downgrade in performance. General comments were that the air pockets in the lid are more important than foam filling, that somehow the foam transfers heat in faster than air pockets (think double pane windows that have the air gap in between, not foam ((Duh lol))
what WOULD be good I imagine, is being able to foam closer to the ice contact source down along the sides and bottom, but he said there didnt seem to be any way to get foam in, there seemed to be foam in OEM.
I was about to leave the house to pick up some and do mine, since my coleman is horrifically bad even compared to a couple bux cheap fragile all foam coolers... (the best one I got is an organ cooler ie. was used by medical industry and 'retired'. There were no organs in it, the only reason I offered to take it) That lil thing can only do 3 cans of beer if laid flat, and the other 3 on top those plus the ice needed, but it stays iced for days before needing top up ice. Something better about those all foam medical organ carriers...
I think I will go for foil wrap insulator (hot water pipe style or the bubblefoil barrier, forgot the name/application) kind and just sacrifice a bit of the interior capacity of the thing instead. Anything is better than having new ice melted before I even get the 5 hr drive to the mtns done...
Seems the value of air spacing for a barrier is under appreciated nowadays.
@@bsc4344 LOL. Yeah when he did not test at the end and the video was over, I knew...
I did test it here: ua-cam.com/video/EQhpwtqERgE/v-deo.html , which is linked at the end of the video, in the description and the pinned comment….. but hey, let’s scroll past all that and resurrect two year old comments instead…
@@DoItYourselfDad Thanks I watched. It was good. You care! Now thinking about doing it!
@@nami2918 Don't bother. The test wasn't scientific at all. Listen to B Sc's comment. In the linked video he took 3 different coolers. Not 2 identical coolers then modded one to test against a control.
I found if you put the blue masking tape where you're going to drill the holes, cleanup is a lot easier. After the foam dries simply pull off the dried foam by pulling off the tape. Make sure you tape well beyond where you plan to drill. Try it
I just insulated two cooler lids. Thanks for the tip! I wanted a way to seal the holes used for the injection. Decided to use appropriately sized pop rivets. Also, drilled through the sides and top so I wouldn’t interact with the food surfaces. Seems to have worked well. :)
Nice upgrades! Thanks for the tip!
E6000 Glue. Turns to hard plastic in 24 hrs.
You shouldn't have done that. As you'll note, there is no test in this video. The hack he did just made it worse.
Rivets are still porous so you need some epoxy or hot glue over the rivets. DooOOO
Also use door or window foam or rubber strips to get better seal around lid.
The logic is flawless with the no bear badge on the cooler.
vibrating saw works great for taking off the excess
You can buy rust proofing plugs that you use on cars to fill in the holes . The plugs come in 3/8 or 1/2" get them at any auto supply
That's what I thought, small stainless screws should last for years.
I would just dab in some E-6000 or Gorilla Glue equivalent. It's non hardening and you can roll your fingers to remove the residue. You can rub off the excess "overspray" on the lid as easily. Let it partially cure and it comes off nice 'n rubber like.
As someone thats looked into hundred+ dollar coolers...thank you so much for this. As someone that wants to camp for a weekend or two weeks, this will make things so much easier.
I just spread honey over everyone else's coolers and they leave mine alone.
Well played.
You're an evil genius...
@@largol33t1 I only put honey on the Yeti coolers, so is that really evil ;-)
👏👏👏
LOL 🤣
Gotta admit, love how you don’t buy into the whole “Be a trendy hipster” attitude. So many people think that they must compete and buy overpriced garbage, when they can make something so inexpensive just as effective and useful. Good job!
I don’t think “people” actually think that, it’s more about convenience. Some people just have money, and don’t want to make things themselves.
Sure they do, there are coolers that are half the cost of a Yeti that are just as good… they just don’t come with stickers and a hashtag.
I just did this to my cooler last week before a camping trip. Helped a lot to keep the ice from melting. Also Acetone worked well to get it off quickly. Great Video
Drill the holes on the edges of the lid where it makes contact with the cooler then cover them with a nice adhesive thin foam strip for a double duty of sealing the holes and sealing the air around the lid ..with the tube on the spray foam you can still reach the center easily.
I find that if I just use double-sided tape and stick aluminum foil to the inside of my cooler, it extends the life of my ice for an additional day or two.
Try Reflectix. Works good
I reuse some heavy duty Mylar packaging material that came in a box of cold goods. Just cut it to the size of the cooler and lay it across the interior top. Really holds in the cold. But I’m doing this expanding foam hack.
@An idiot... Correct. The air gap acts as a better insulated medium than the spray foam. If you want to make a mod that works, get the pink insulation boards, cut it to fit the bottom, sides and make a “lid” that all fit inside the body of the cooler. Simple, removable and it actually works because there are still air gaps in the existing structure of the cooler.
Great vid! Another mod I would suggest would be to affix UV reflective window film (or similar such as aluminum foil) to cover the lid. Your cooler may be in the shade when you place it, but that status can change, often beneath notice.
you are hilarious! omg...I filled my cooler wit" "great stuff about" 10 yrs ago still in fabulous shape and I keep mine cold almost a week on 1 small 7# ice bag. when i fill my cooler i put the ice bag standing in the center and put all the cold foods around it, never put in room temp stuff to get cold (start out w/ everything cold). yay! glad to see others doing this
We lived in a drafty mobile home for a few years and did a lot of spray foaming while we were there. I can’t remember if it was peroxide or rubbing alcohol (I believe it was peroxide) but if you get spray foam on your skin rub some peroxide and fast orange (for the pumice) on the area and it cleans up so much easier. Thanks for the cooler tips, gonna go play in the spray foam for a while before we head to the river. Now I’m wondering about making flotation devices with spray foam, hmmm.
I did this on my last 3 coolers. Did the top and bottom of the last. Just tap the besides you'll be able to tell where the insulation stops and you can fill in. Fun video thanks
We use "CRC BRAKE CLEANER" at work to get it off your skin but you do have only minutes to get it cleaned off so keep it close by. The foam still has to be soft to remove it.
Once it gets hard and sets up it's permanent and you have to wear it off.
The No Bears sign should work. Deer read the Deer Crossing signs and know it’s cool to cross there.
Absolutely worked. Before I did this, the ice melts in about 12 hours sitting outside or on a boat. With this simple insulation trick, the ice lasted around 24-26 hours. When I used blocks of ice instead of cubes, it even lasted longer at 30 hours. The PAM trick is right on target, the waste came right off. Also did the new Stainless Steel hinges from Amazon and this cooler is around for quite a few more years. Thanks...
I was hoping it would last longer.
Lol, you had me rolling in laughter with your bear proof warning and anti-confuse Yeti logo, well done sir.
We were going to make a video of this at the boatyard, because we're sick of those overpriced coolers too. I'm glad you did. Now we can resume screwing off instead.
I used spray foam on my Coleman cooler about 25 years ago, long before Yetti came out and rally worked well!
I drilled a lot more holes. I did it to the whole cooler, sides and top
Poor vintage coleman. You made it a worse cooler unfortunately.
The sides already have foam.
Before spraying in the foam, I apply a generous coat of paste wax to the lid surfaces. The excess foam wont adhere to the lid surface. I then drill the fill holes out and fill with silicone.
Before injecting the foam, coat the inside of the lid with silicone or vegetable oil. It makes getting the excess foam off much easier
Another way to improve your coolers ability to hold ice is to use "reflectec" to make a "wrap to cover the cooler. We also line the inside with the same material. Although this seems like a fish story we can improve the ice holding ability to one week. We use this method when we go north into Canada to fish. Reflectex is basically bubble wrap sandwiched in shiny foil on both sides. Heating and Air conditioning contractors use this material.
My ice stays frozen for months in Canada too
I bought several Coleman Extreme coolers over 15 years ago for less than $20 each. BEST coolers I have ever owned! I don't believe a YETI would even come close to that kind of VALUE!
Agreed! These cheap coolers hold up!
Not all containers are created evenly. I would suggest you get the brightest flashlight you can find and place it inside the ice chest at night. Now look at the outside for light bleed through from areas in the chest that may not be properly insulated. If the store will let you this is a good way to pick out a good cooler off the shelf. If you want a quick easy cooler that'll keep ice cold for days then find a styrofoam cooler that will just fit inside your ice chest and place the ice in it. My last suggestion for long lasting ice is buy or make solid blocks of ice. Out in the bay in summer heat I can melt forty pounds of ice in a day or put ten pounds of block ice in it's place and still have ice left at the end of the day.
I will definately try this! For a quicker process, add some water: "Dampen for Fast Curing. Expanding polyurethane foam sealant requires moisture to expand and cure. If you're applying foam to dry wood or other dry surfaces, or working on a day with little humidity, misting the area first will help the foam expand and cure faster".
I bought a cooler from Goodwill to do this for fun. Turns out it's my BEST cooler!!!
I have that same cooler, but a different colour. I have had it about the same length of time, and I think this is a super idea!I also use a space blanket to wrap it in. That alone, and keeping it in the shade (and not letting anyone else open it) keeps it properly cold for easily 5 days, so with the spray- in insulation, it should last us for most of our 2-week wilderness canoe trips. Thanks!!
that is what i do also.. but even doing that, and having dry ice inside.. I still could not get Blue Bell from texas to the west coast .. to my baby who LOVEs it. :( melted into liquid. :(
Put an iced milk jug in cooler overnight then a fresh one next morning; it jump-starts the cold.
The little signs you stuck on the cooler are hilarious! Love it & thanks for the great advice.
I've had a number of plastic hinges break on me. Using a small chunk of leather to replace them keeps your lid secure for years and years.
Happened to me too. Replacement hinges were 1.50 each and a buck shipping.
Very cool. I was concerned that the foam would expand beyond it's parameters and bloat the lid, but I can see that it didn't do that here for you. I imagine that it might if the walls of the cooler were really flimsy, or perhaps not. thanks again for demonstrating this. I always wanted to do this exact thing. .... Also, I am going to tackle this project but I will add a piece of double sided radiant barrier foam insulation to mine. Reflectix makes one, but the one I will use is a roofing underlayment replacement called "Low E."
I have a big 5 day Colman cooler for $39 new, if the items are already cold before loading the cooler. It works fine. Just drain the water in the morning. I'll have try the foam.
Igloo marine coolers are insulated top to bottom. I found this out when I tried to insulate the top. :).
Good vid
G G::: The one we had in Florida would hold ice for three days, i don't know how well they are made these days?
I have the smallest one and it's not insulated anywhere!
Haha lol I did the same lol
I have their 70qt MaxCold roller cubes. love those things. They're insulated top to bottom. solid hinges, solid heavy plastic construction (can stand on them with no flex), and they keep things frozen rock hard for at least 2 days. I have not had to test them any longer since that's my max travel/flight time home.
@@bigstick5278 o
That was a good idea to make the cooler last longer but it is just the lid. How much difference will that actually make. If you did a side by side comparison it would make this video a lot more informative.
A lot. Great stuff has an r value of about 6 per inch. Granted it's really adding against the protection of soon beating down on the lid and warming up the air inside
good question - can I do this to the sides of my old cooler?
Minor tip. Wype the inside of the lid down with peteolium jelly before filling with foam. It wont stick after it dries.
I made one of these years ago and kept it out of sight did not want anyone to know I could not afford the yeti and I still have it-should have done a video.
I have often thought of doing this. A before and after ice melt test would convince me if it was worth it. Also Yetis and other thermoplastic molded coolers usually have an air tight gasket which helps with cooling efficiency.
Just put up the test video,.... and added latches and a gasket, check it out: ua-cam.com/video/EQhpwtqERgE/v-deo.html
I quickly looked through the comments but I was suprised to see that no one knows the REAL way to get rid of spray foam!
ACETONE! just wait for it to harden, and wipe it down with one of your wives little face pads or a cloth, works perfectly for skin too!
Also I might suggest window foam, it has a softer expansion than gap filler, same price but it wont warp your lid at all!
Great video!
Get some moving blankets. Throw over the top of the cooler under a nice shaded area. This helps keep the heat out, kids and other critters. My bear proofing is not camping in bear areas.
That's my way to bear proof.
Fill from outside. Also blue tape the hell out of it, and then drill the holes and fill. Once the foam dries, just peel off the tape. No chisel or wire brush needed.
Wiping mineral oil on the cooler will work cheaper and 90% faster. And is food safe
SouthernKudzu Would work just as well. Other then some of the sketchy claims about aerosol cooking spray. Either way not a deal breaker.
Or rub with olive oil first.
cunning linguist I’d just let my gf sit on it, she has a real hot ass.
I can tell you dont know shit about physics....you try that out before you give out dumb advice
Haven't done it yet but was thinking of just spraying the underside of the lid with cooking spray before using the foam to keep it from sticking.
Great stuff is a urethane foam with an R value / inch of 3.7-4.5 range.
Better than nothing, but closed cell urethane can get you into the mid 6's / inch of thickness.
Yeti's total envelope is ~ R6 I think (not per inch. Total insulative value). - Heat transfer through the walls i.. decent... but the material is so thick that a fair bit of heat wicks around the foam and through the plastic.
There is also very little to no irradiative barrier in the yeti or coleman coolers.
If you want to see a awesome (non consumer) cooler, look up Vacuum insulation panel shippers. They are used in pharma and bio.
The yeti has an R of ~6
A decent themal shipper made from VIP's will be 1" thick walls, and have an R value of 40.
It would have been nice if you would have done a before and after test on how long ice lasts.
Absolutely. Waste of time without test.
I was thought that air was the best insolator
If air was the best insulator then why do we have insulation to fill air gaps in the rest of the cooler, refrigerators, houses etc?
@@DoItYourselfDad to prevent the air from moving. It's not the filler material that insolates it's the trapped bubbles inside the foam. in fact the insolator material conducts heat so the denser the insolator (the more used) the less effective so long that enough is used to prevent air movement
@@DGDRamped ummm?.. The air inside the top of a cooler will match the temperature of the surrounding ambient temp, imagine the sun beating down on the top of a cooler lid, it will be scorching on top and inside the lid. The lids of cheap coolers is the biggest issue. Insulation provides a barrier between 2 areas. Hence why they insulate houses in cold climates.
This is cool. I’m totally going to try this on my 16qt cooler. Another note, for 3d printing people should check their local library. I know our local libraries have several for free public use. You just need to take a their safety class.
Totally awesome. I really want one of those not a yeti tags for my cooler. Heck, any weekend project with Great Stuff is a great time. Thanks.
Can not stress how difficult spray foam is to clean up, especially after it cures. Water helps it expand too. Finally, the loctite version is better than greatstuff
I have a Yeti. Got at a discount from someone I know at a marina. Works good especially if you precool it. When I travel 300 miles one way every other month I use a cheaper cooler and cover/ wrap it with an old blanket. Does a decent job.
Great idea. Love the humor with the labels! 🇺🇸
Acetone is great for getting the foam off, especially before it dries.
You could also put painter's tape where you intend to drill holes before drilling, cover with a sheet of plastic, cut holes in the plastic corresponding to the tape, place another piece of tape to stick the plastic to the base layer of tape, drill your holes, fill with foam, wait for it to dry, and now your foam is stuck to your plastic film instead of the lid.
Spray foam is definitely a fantastic product! I recently used some on a video where I filled pneumatic garden tires with it to make them run flats!
I've always thought to myself if a grizzly bear get your cooler the last thing you're going to be worried about is, the bear drinking your beer
The coverage of the foam in the lid was amazing. A suggestion would be to wipe down the inside of the lid with a release agent like Vaseline.
Great idea, I’m going have to do that to all my camping / hunting coolers. Thanks for the info: Just so NO to yeti !!!!!
I think the Yeti' and such are meant for Long trips, RVers, and tiny homers, living in vans etc instead of buying a fridge freezer. They are delighted with them.
I loved in the video where you discussed how long the ice lasted the whole weekend
I have this same cooler, its primary benefit being it is the largest cooler I have that fits through the trunk opening of my Subaru BRZ. Performance (the cooler, not the car) has always been lacking. I may have to try this.
Theres a little removable plastic plug in the back of the lid, just a heads up.
The plug isin the side in the middle as well
Lol
If this was filled from only one hole, or also covering up the hole/s as you spray, the foam will have no where to go as it expands, thus warping the lid, making it useless......
Make sure you drill enough holes to vent the foam as it explands. I didn't drill
enough, and my lid expanded in the middle, bowed and ruined the cooler completely.
Sorry, but I laughed out loud at your bowed cooler. Bummer dude.
They make window and door jam spary foam, it expands less and wont deform the window or door.... or lid
OMG
The holes wouldn't have prevented that. The red can expands at will even destructively that's why your instructed to only fill 50 percent of the void and not fill voids you can't see. The blue can is a few bucks more but far more forgiving. The cell structure for the blue can is different though so it's much more likely to sponge up water. Closed cell vs open cell
killfistr I used the low expansion on mine. It was fine at first but later it still ruptured the lid.
I insulated my cooler as you teach. Now waiting to save up to buy a 3D printer to make it bear proof. I'll keep you updated.
Great idea on insulating the cooler. I’ll upgrade ours as well. Thanks!!
Great video! The only thing that would make it better would be a before and after ice melt test.
That was my thought as well.
Yea i would like to see a test.
No way that would even come close to reaching Yeti performance. Still prob definitely worth doing for overnight trips etc though
Yo Daguy Yeti’s and Engle’s work great...as long as you’re not opening and closing them all day. If so then they’re just as inefficient as a cheap cooler. Now if you’re packing things in and don’t open the lids they’re good for close to 48hrs or more...
@@Hogprint25 my yetis still had ice after eight days in the Nevada desert, even with opening for cooking ( not a beer cooler though)
totally awesome, i did the same but i did not make that many holes , 1 at each end of your lid 2 in the center as bleed off holes
and to re-seal the holes plastic hole plugs with a sealant that turns to rubber , NOTE: mine was constructed from the out side same concept, great vid. Kelvin
Ghetto Yeti.... It's a Ghetti!
Ha!
Then take your ghetto cooler to the sarenghetto to show your home boys how to drink a cold one
@@williamnelson2942 I'll do that! It won't be Corona either, us Hillbillies like the cheap beer. Ha! Rolling Rock, Nat Light, PBR.....
Save the over priced stuff for you yuppies.
HAHAHAHAHA! NICE
@@williamnelson2942
Open a cold one with the boys
Great idea on insulating the lid. I was hoping for a test and comparison with one of the big boys though! If you tested it, can you share how much better your coleman performed than before the extra insulation? Thanks! Keep the DIY stuff comin'! Thumbs up! NVRMND!! Just saw Part 2!!!! Thanks!
Check out the video in the pinned comment, we tested it and added seals and latches as well.
I just got the same idea and i went on UA-cam and found your video, its genius!
My guess is it will give you a bit longer. The quality and thickness of roto molded coolers is by far better. For regular camping this would work. For my week long rafting trips I need those expensive coolers
You may think you need the expensive ones. I did a six day trip with a cooler the same as in the video, but without insulating the lid. I still had water that I couldn't drink on the way home because it was still frozen. 🤷♂️
Should of done a test to see how it now holds ice vs a YETI
T-DUB DELRAY lets not get too crazy....
Not even close to a yeti, still cool thoygh
Totally love that bear proofing. I bet that it works, 100% in several jurisdictions around this country where bears don't likely exist anyway. Nice work, Sir.
Do you think the holes could be made on top of the lid? So you don'don't worry about food grade silicone? It may not look clean but just a thought.
Rubber grommets
Doing it from the inside allows you to see all the places you intend to drill without having to extrapolate the locations from the inside to the outside. Spraying, taping etc. is not so much work for saving yourself all the labor that Dad guy went to for cleanup.
Good job ..put pam on the lid before it will not stick !😁
Rather than let the foam expand out of the holes. I used to tape over the holes to produce a denser foam, which produced a better insulation and better distribution. Once the pressure becomes too great, the foam expands and pushes the tape off. But then you definitely know the insulation is well and truly filled all voids.
Denser does not create better insulation the point of insulation is to trap multiple pockets of air. Denser foam equals less air. There's a reason that when the insulate homes they don't over stuff the insulation, it reduces the r value.
@@Eliwhygul772 Yeah, I think you're right. Heat/cold transfers easily through a solid medium, but it is very difficult for either to through still air. You need just the right amount of insulation to air ratio, I think.
Loved you ghetto Yeti. I would like to know how long it takes for a chunk of ice to melt before and after (same weight for each of course). Now I need to test, create one and test again. :) Thanks for the quick leason.
Nice, I have the same cooler and have it for around 15+ years also. Strange thing is that I was just cleaning out some Cabinets and I found two cans of that foam thing and a few hours later, this shows up on my UA-cam recommendations :o/
Thanks again for a great Idea. Yeti is Seriously Over Priced.
It’s the government
@@lorenzofuentes3021 :o/ maybe they are warning us ?
Enter: music from "The Twilight Zone"
Mmmmmm, Dew Du, dew DU, Dew Du, dew DU, Dew Du, dew DU, Dew Du, dew DU!!! You are entering the Twilight Zone
Yetis and similar type expensive coolers have far superior performance, but most people really don't need that, plus they hold less due to their thickness and they're heavier, so they're not worth the cost for overnight or short weekend type trips. But for long trips or hot conditions, yeti blows these things out of the water
I've got a great tip. I put a cooler inside the cooler for a freezer unit. No joke. I was able to keep ice for 6 days in the "freezer" compartment. Now, I'll have to admit that both inner and outer coolers were also being stored inside an antique refrigerator that was unplugged. I assume that old 1927 fridge had some sort of insulation left. Not much though, because before the thermostat went, it always felt cold on the outside. But I'm glad you posted the video, because now I have the courage to give this a try. I'd been thinking it would work for a few years already. Now that my husband ordered a bunch of Omaha steaks, I have that cooler (which works better- ha) as a backup.
This works!
Id love to see all the pics of the lids that blew open from too much foam
Good point. You would want to use the product that is designed for around windows. It is minimal expanding and low pressure.
@@ringwood I agree. Blue can. But you need to do a good job of plugging the holes, the blue can will sponge water up while the red won't
Funny I did the same thing to an old hollow core door I had to my cold celler. Good video never thought of doing it to my cooler.
Thanks for the hollow core door idea!
I've got a cooler I insulated thirty years ago. Still keeps things cooler than the original did, but not to the level of a Yeti or an Rtech cooler. Rtechs are just like a Yeti but half the cost.
Thanks for the video, and the great tips from everyone. Now to update my 20 year old cooler!!!!!!
did that last year to one of my coolers helped a lot
A good way to warp the cooler lid. Try using the "Less Expanding " foam, same brand used for house windows.
The excess foam exited. Why not ask him if the lid ever warped?
Works great i`ve been doing it to coolers for over 20yrs now and you can find replacement metal hinges on the net for the upgrade.
3:15 it's always a good idea to give it a good shake before putting in the holes. 👌👏😆
Would love to see a comparison video of how this holds up against one of the expensive ones.
Never mind, found it…
You can use gasket sealer or foam tape on the inside also to help seal it.
Spray the lid down with cooking spray first. That way the foam wont stick after it oozes out of the holes and dries on to the lid.
I wonder if that would work with a babies butt? ....lol
mac11380
Boudreaux’s Butt Paste
Awesome bear prevention technique! Genius..pure genius!
Right?!? I'm gonna put those on my backpack when I'm hiking to stay safe. lol