Capt. This was perfect. The kids jammed up our Retaliator today. This helped tremendously in reassembling it once I fixed the jammed slide. As always, much clearer descriptions of what's going on than pretty much anyone else. Thank you sir for your good work.
For the magazine release lock, once removed and using Nerf mags, did not have a magazine failure of any kind. Only time it happened was an off brand 15 round banana mag, as the follower got loose and had to be reset. That mag is now only used for flywheel blasters.
Thank you for making this video Captain! Really appreciate this one. I’m such a smart guy that I “modded” the retaliator that my son and I got from goodwill thinking it would be smooth sailing like all of the previous mods I have attempted. Yeah we both know how that went! And my son was upset and I’ve searched the interwebs far and wide for tips and details on which locks were necessary and what I could do to remedy it without putting them all back in. Your video is by far the most detailed and easily understood (although my wandering mind had to rewind certain sections a couple of times each) by far. I’m contemplating busting it out and giving it a go right now at 4am lulz 😆. The best part of it all though, retaliator aside, is that by demonstrating how the internals and locks worked together to achieve their intended goals I now understand them all so much better. I knew their functions and how to take them in and out but by seeing the mechanisms in action the whole concept of a blaster makes so much more sense in my brain 🗺🧠♑️🕯♑️♏️🕉♑️✝️... 🧠🍽 🍰... 🏆♑️💭💰 ... 👁🗨♥️⛎🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️🤣😝🤓...
Worth noting that for a brass breech, removing the magazine release lock is not only favorable, but often necessary. This is because the brass is a much smaller diameter than the plastic breech, and the magazine can snap around it without damaging itself or the breech. Many brass breech designs can ONLY be loaded when the breech is closed, due to the breech having a sort of arch that keeps the front and rear portions of the breech aligned, which can be damaged by trying to insert a magazine while the breech is open. If you intend to make a full brass breech, you should probably be removing that magazine lock. Also, as long as you make a habit of not forcing magazines into or out of the blaster, you can avoid damaging either the magazine or breech by inserting or removing them when the breech is closed. Forcing magazines is never a good idea anyway.
@@icrazyfish2661 Yeah, sleeper breeches can, and often should, be loaded with the breech open. Now that I think of it, the same goes for many other sealed breech systems that don't have an arch. Thanks, I forgot about those. It is just the full breeches that need to be loaded while closed. And even then, if you make the arch on it narrow enough, a full breech can still take the magazine while open. That has the advantage of loading with the breech open or closed. I think I've heard that referred to as a quarter pipe breech, because the arch piece is one quarter of the pipe instead of half.
Hoping for an AR video, with a list of common blasters it helps, and list that it hurts. And a list of those cheeky blasters that will spit out their own ARs just to hurt people.
Great video! Also i just wanted to say that yesterday i put a tek-6 spring in my alpha trooper and it hits way harder, thanks for letting me know that a tek-6 spring works in those types of blasters!
I accidentally removed my retaliator trigger lock and wanted to put it back because it kept slamming on me when my darts went dry... this was before I fully became familiar of the retaliator anatomy. I found Captain Xavier's video on this and realised that (despite my mum telling me to throw these away) I had all my internal pieces savedand I have both the trigger lock and mag lock with the springs. Now I can put my trigger lock back when I install my 9kg spring with worker bolt sleds and side priming handles. I also damaged my bolt sled when removing the air restrictor once but the new worker one does not feature a lock there so... hmmm Hmmm..... I might as well leave 'em out, now that I know they are actually useful, I thought my blaster was broken before XD and broke the priming slide's little notches so it did not function at all!
Hey Captain! I bought one of the Kronos you sent over to Mr.RaleighNerf over in North Carolina. Thanks for that, I had a lot of fun with it! Hey how did this Helios get in my Amazon cart.. Oh god magazines and ammo too!? This is all your fault! Guess I'm a rival addict now :V
After the flywheel video, maybe one on Stampedes? When I opened mine, I saw a lot of unnecessary locks. There were multiple locks that made sure the magazine was in, which really just increases points of failure.
Wow this is so helpful so that I don’t mod my retaliator wrongly and break it because I literally bought a retaliator a days after this video was posted and I didn’t know he posted this.
I remove the maglock so i can pull the release and pull the prime back at the same time, allowing the mag to fall out with the added momentum of priming back on the bolt
I usually take off the jam door on retaliators or recons because if I keep the slide on the jam door is kinda useless but if I put a pump grip in it worker sells side covers which also require you to remove the jam door to me it’s just another lock
Amazing video as always, thank you for posting such excellent content. Watching you operate on this Retaliator is watching a master class in springer mods.
While I've heard others talk about the mag lock, and not removing the mag/installing it with the bolt forward, I've never had any misalignment or damage to my bolt or magazines from doing so.... and I'm really, really hard on my blasters. One even being a retali-strike which has the two parts of the bolt adhered with epoxy putty.
Where are the locks located in a side mounted magazine blaster (ie Rampage, First Order Stormtrooper blaster?) I ordered a FOST blaster and want to know which locks I should remove and where they are prior to modding. This video gave me good suggestions for the first questions, but since every blaster is different I'm curious as to how different the configuration is from the Retaliator shown in the video.
Matthew McCaulley I actually did this exact thing to mine! What is the spring trick and can I put some of those locks back into it or mod them to make it now fire without pushing the dart in with your finger? I’m guessing I should just listen to Capt Xa and start looking for those locks
Yes ;) All three are about 95% mechanically identical(major difference being the D.T. has slam fire) aesthetically speaking I prefer the Recon mk2 because of the hand guard and overall "blocky/chunky" design, but that's just me. It all comes down to what your preferences are.
Litt, the issue is you did not provide any metric for what is "best." Best at what? Range? Accuracy? Price? Shape? Color? Flavor? We cannot tell you which is best unless you give us something to base it on.
@suevaz-2996 Depends on the rest of the build. If it has a sealed breach that would let you multi-load and fire more than one round. If not, it will just jam the blaster. Either way you will not be able to deprime the blaster. So I would say not. If you are going to remove one, then remove both.
One help please, my retaliator has low air pressure and can fire only to 2 to 3 feet, sometimes it even can't fire the dart outside the barrel. Any fix..???
left my slide lock in my recon cs6 the other 2 i took out just for making it faster to reload and also make it so i don't double load and can d prime if i don't have anymore darts i also gave it a spring upgrade but its still stock parts and they still catch so thats nice do you think this is a good idea or no? i still have the locks somewhere
I often notice that after opening up a blaster a lot I end up removing the grease/lubrication from the plugger tube (its inevitable when you pick it up) and was wondering what kind of grease should be used if needed
the intro scared the screw out of my Retaliator meaning it was silent then he banged his desk as i was unscrewing a screw and i wasnt even done unscrewing and it came out :D
@@CaptainXavier here's the amazon UK link www.amazon.co.uk/Shoulder-Collapsible-Adjustable-Foldable-Injection/dp/B0794X6DND/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1544039903&sr=8-1-fkmr1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=worker+folding+stock+L+shape#
Anything where the rubber head is smaller than the foam. Stock darts, Mengun, Darts, dome tipped darts, worker half darts. Things like Accufake and Waffle tips do not work well at all.
Fun Fact: You can actually override the trigger lock while squeezing the trigger whilst pulling back the slide. Of course, I simply wouldn’t reccoment it.
![Worker Basic and Luxury kits for Nerf Retaliator [Nerf Modding]](/img/n.gif)
Don't forget to save the springs from removed locks they can be useful.
This actually helped me put my Retaliator back together 😀
Hurray! Then it was all worth it! :D
Capt. This was perfect. The kids jammed up our Retaliator today. This helped tremendously in reassembling it once I fixed the jammed slide. As always, much clearer descriptions of what's going on than pretty much anyone else. Thank you sir for your good work.
Hi one year later and I am working on 2 christmas gifts for my kids. I bought them pump kits for their retaliators. Thank you for covering this!
For the magazine release lock, once removed and using Nerf mags, did not have a magazine failure of any kind. Only time it happened was an off brand 15 round banana mag, as the follower got loose and had to be reset. That mag is now only used for flywheel blasters.
Thank you for making this video Captain! Really appreciate this one. I’m such a smart guy that I “modded” the retaliator that my son and I got from goodwill thinking it would be smooth sailing like all of the previous mods I have attempted. Yeah we both know how that went! And my son was upset and I’ve searched the interwebs far and wide for tips and details on which locks were necessary and what I could do to remedy it without putting them all back in. Your video is by far the most detailed and easily understood (although my wandering mind had to rewind certain sections a couple of times each) by far. I’m contemplating busting it out and giving it a go right now at 4am lulz 😆. The best part of it all though, retaliator aside, is that by demonstrating how the internals and locks worked together to achieve their intended goals I now understand them all so much better. I knew their functions and how to take them in and out but by seeing the mechanisms in action the whole concept of a blaster makes so much more sense in my brain 🗺🧠♑️🕯♑️♏️🕉♑️✝️... 🧠🍽 🍰... 🏆♑️💭💰 ... 👁🗨♥️⛎🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️🤣😝🤓...
Worth noting that for a brass breech, removing the magazine release lock is not only favorable, but often necessary. This is because the brass is a much smaller diameter than the plastic breech, and the magazine can snap around it without damaging itself or the breech. Many brass breech designs can ONLY be loaded when the breech is closed, due to the breech having a sort of arch that keeps the front and rear portions of the breech aligned, which can be damaged by trying to insert a magazine while the breech is open. If you intend to make a full brass breech, you should probably be removing that magazine lock.
Also, as long as you make a habit of not forcing magazines into or out of the blaster, you can avoid damaging either the magazine or breech by inserting or removing them when the breech is closed. Forcing magazines is never a good idea anyway.
Indeed. There are exceptions to any rule and mods that involved are a whole different world. :) Thanks for the input!
matthewbro3 but sleeper breeches are fine. Great tip, just wanted to make sure people know!
@@icrazyfish2661 Yeah, sleeper breeches can, and often should, be loaded with the breech open. Now that I think of it, the same goes for many other sealed breech systems that don't have an arch. Thanks, I forgot about those. It is just the full breeches that need to be loaded while closed. And even then, if you make the arch on it narrow enough, a full breech can still take the magazine while open. That has the advantage of loading with the breech open or closed. I think I've heard that referred to as a quarter pipe breech, because the arch piece is one quarter of the pipe instead of half.
Hoping for an AR video, with a list of common blasters it helps, and list that it hurts. And a list of those cheeky blasters that will spit out their own ARs just to hurt people.
I covered AR basics a while ago... ;P
It helps in a reverse plunger blaster, long shots, almost any old n strike blaster, doesn’t help with modern elite blasters though
@@endrlock why doesn't it help modern blasters?
Great video! Also i just wanted to say that yesterday i put a tek-6 spring in my alpha trooper and it hits way harder, thanks for letting me know that a tek-6 spring works in those types of blasters!
I accidentally removed my retaliator trigger lock and wanted to put it back because it kept slamming on me when my darts went dry... this was before I fully became familiar of the retaliator anatomy.
I found Captain Xavier's video on this and realised that (despite my mum telling me to throw these away) I had all my internal pieces savedand I have both the trigger lock and mag lock with the springs. Now I can put my trigger lock back when I install my 9kg spring with worker bolt sleds and side priming handles.
I also damaged my bolt sled when removing the air restrictor once but the new worker one does not feature a lock there so... hmmm
Hmmm..... I might as well leave 'em out, now that I know they are actually useful, I thought my blaster was broken before XD and broke the priming slide's little notches so it did not function at all!
Hey Captain! I bought one of the Kronos you sent over to Mr.RaleighNerf over in North Carolina. Thanks for that, I had a lot of fun with it! Hey how did this Helios get in my Amazon cart.. Oh god magazines and ammo too!? This is all your fault!
Guess I'm a rival addict now :V
After the flywheel video, maybe one on Stampedes? When I opened mine, I saw a lot of unnecessary locks. There were multiple locks that made sure the magazine was in, which really just increases points of failure.
Thanks for the video Xavier. I have enjoyed your videos quite a lot, especially the Goodwill runs and Can it take a K-26.
Wow this is so helpful so that I don’t mod my retaliator wrongly and break it because I literally bought a retaliator a days after this video was posted and I didn’t know he posted this.
I remove the maglock so i can pull the release and pull the prime back at the same time, allowing the mag to fall out with the added momentum of priming back on the bolt
I usually take off the jam door on retaliators or recons because if I keep the slide on the jam door is kinda useless but if I put a pump grip in it worker sells side covers which also require you to remove the jam door to me it’s just another lock
Amazing video as always, thank you for posting such excellent content. Watching you operate on this Retaliator is watching a master class in springer mods.
Your video helped me fix my neighbour kid's gun.... So thank you for taking the time to do the video....
My friend has an old sharpfire I gave to him.
The breach lock is very worn and allows you to unprime it as you said
I was just working on a Retaliator. Nice
While I've heard others talk about the mag lock, and not removing the mag/installing it with the bolt forward, I've never had any misalignment or damage to my bolt or magazines from doing so.... and I'm really, really hard on my blasters. One even being a retali-strike which has the two parts of the bolt adhered with epoxy putty.
Do you know where to get some replacement parts for the magazine lock?
My retal only primes when is primed back fast and dart bearly falls out of the barrel. What does the front lock do?
Great work captain
Where are the locks located in a side mounted magazine blaster (ie Rampage, First Order Stormtrooper blaster?) I ordered a FOST blaster and want to know which locks I should remove and where they are prior to modding. This video gave me good suggestions for the first questions, but since every blaster is different I'm curious as to how different the configuration is from the Retaliator shown in the video.
Thx! It helped a lot! But, i lost the spring for the priming lock😕
Very well done Captain :)
I can't remove the top left and middle screws. Please help by commenting ways to remove the screws.
sigh i wish i knew these before destroying my retaliators lol #first mod regrets
Matthew McCaulley I actually did this exact thing to mine! What is the spring trick and can I put some of those locks back into it or mod them to make it now fire without pushing the dart in with your finger? I’m guessing I should just listen to Capt Xa and start looking for those locks
Captain Xavier. I bought a bagel sandwich from the deli and it was full of lox. How do I remove them?
Next te ask them to "hold the lox."
Which is best?: the Recon MKII, the Delta Trooper, or the Retaliator?
Yes ;)
All three are about 95% mechanically identical(major difference being the D.T. has slam fire) aesthetically speaking I prefer the Recon mk2 because of the hand guard and overall "blocky/chunky" design, but that's just me.
It all comes down to what your preferences are.
^ What they said.
So the MKII?
@@deetusyeletus if you also like the look of it and don't mind not having slam fire then sure🙃
Litt, the issue is you did not provide any metric for what is "best." Best at what? Range? Accuracy? Price? Shape? Color? Flavor? We cannot tell you which is best unless you give us something to base it on.
Is it better if you only take out the slide lock and not the trigger locks?
@suevaz-2996 Depends on the rest of the build. If it has a sealed breach that would let you multi-load and fire more than one round. If not, it will just jam the blaster. Either way you will not be able to deprime the blaster. So I would say not. If you are going to remove one, then remove both.
Does the orange paint you use have a certain name? Like brand and colour
Yes.
Ahhhh. I took out the dart tooth and the mag release on my old alpha trooper before I really knew what I was doing. #firstmodregrets
One help please, my retaliator has low air pressure and can fire only to 2 to 3 feet, sometimes it even can't fire the dart outside the barrel. Any fix..???
I would open it up and check the o-rings on the bolt and the plunger rod. Also add some lubricant. The spring might also be worn out.
left my slide lock in my recon cs6 the other 2 i took out just for making it faster to reload and also make it so i don't double load and can d prime if i don't have anymore darts i also gave it a spring upgrade but its still stock parts and they still catch so thats nice do you think this is a good idea or no? i still have the locks somewhere
Yeah, sounds good to me.
@@CaptainXavier oh and i also took the air restrictor out too for got that just fired it not to long ago i forgot how loud it was XD
I often notice that after opening up a blaster a lot I end up removing the grease/lubrication from the plugger tube (its inevitable when you pick it up) and was wondering what kind of grease should be used if needed
I use white lithium grease
@@CaptainXavier i know this is old but can you use the blaster whitout it
@@joaoruxa without what?
@@CaptainXavier without the grease
@@CaptainXavier sorry im not a native speaker
the intro scared the screw out of my Retaliator meaning it was silent then he banged his desk as i was unscrewing a screw and i wasnt even done unscrewing and it came out :D
OMG thanks for the heart! :D
I already took out tge trigger and slide locks on my old recon
Captain Xavier, have you ever tried modding the Modulus Mediator front shotgun?
Not yet
Can someone help me?
I removed the magazine lock from the retaliator but the magazine won’t come out
Do you have to bolt pulled back? And are you sure you removed it rather than permanently lock it?
@@CaptainXavier it’s fine now. The magazine is just hard to take out. I was trying to take out the mag without the bolt back
@@Sickmu yeah, that would do it.
How to I fold the worker extendable folding stock?
Which one?
@@CaptainXavier the one that has 4 places to extend to and the stock bit is L shaped.
The metal bit that extends is metallic rose red
Link?
@@CaptainXavier here's the amazon UK link
www.amazon.co.uk/Shoulder-Collapsible-Adjustable-Foldable-Injection/dp/B0794X6DND/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1544039903&sr=8-1-fkmr1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=worker+folding+stock+L+shape#
Pull down on it.
Discussing the bolt lock, you said "primed" on at least two occasions when I think you should have said "fired"
So, What you're saying is... You can make a Retaliator able to Slamfire?
Yes
Maybe you should do a stringer lock removal. Just had to do that to my crossbolt
Oof...the issue with Stringers is that they are ALL different. I can try to do a basics one.
@@CaptainXavier I recommend the Crossbolt if you intend to make one. Or that rebelle combination thing
I should have practiced before I tried this for the first time XD
Are you aware of any darts that can be cut to 1/2 or 1/3 standard length and loaded in a full length mag to make a caliburn fire a burst every shot?
Yes
@@CaptainXavier I may have to look in to getting one then. :)
What darts feed well in a caliburn for the above shotgun mag loading method?
Anything where the rubber head is smaller than the foam. Stock darts, Mengun, Darts, dome tipped darts, worker half darts. Things like Accufake and Waffle tips do not work well at all.
Retaliators are the best platform #springermasterrace
Could you do this Video on a Alpha trooper because it has slam Fire and that stuff
Yeah, I can cover slamfire blasters.
Fun Fact: You can actually override the trigger lock while squeezing the trigger whilst pulling back the slide. Of course, I simply wouldn’t reccoment it.
What about jam door locks on the Mediator, Rampage, and Alpha Trooper? Could probably figure it out, but not sure.
What about them? They are not needed. To disable them just remove whatever the door interfaces with.
Me wishing he did this on a blue one so I could more easily see the locks
One day we will have brass blaster shell :P
Do you mean a shell entirely made of brass? Because that would be very fragile and very expensive.
@@Klipik12 i know
@@Klipik12 or from bullet shell
It’s got to be cold where you are
It is getting a bit chilly, yes.
Captain Xavier How has your winter scarf been coming in?
The scarf is filling in. I got the hat cut today...and now my head is cold...
I cant do like this video ....
Anybody teach me?
My gun is now broken
Well?...fix it.
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