You’re the FN man you save me from a headache I couldn’t understand why it wasn’t taking in fluid after pumping and bleeding 10 times lol, the one pump technique is what does it 👍🏼
Thanks for watching and for your comment. Unfortunately due to the extremely brief available time allotted for a "shorts" video, I was unable to get more in depth with fluid dynamics. You are absolutely correct, as the brakes are used, heat will build in the system. Anything heated will expand so space in the master cylinder is necessary as fluids are incompressible. The brakes could conceivably begin to drag which compounds the problem, more drag, more heat... On some motorcycles, there is a sight window with a minimum and maximum lines and the brake fluid should be adjusted to max after a brake pad change. Brake fluid should never be "topped off" because the master cylinder reservoir and brake levels are calibrated to be at the minimum level when the pads are also at the minimum level. In an automobile, this will generally trigger a brake warning lamp on the dash. But I digress. Some (mostly rear) brake master cylinders caps have a rubber seal with a built in air bladder. When you top these off after a brake replacement, pushing the bladder back into the fluid will displace the proper amount of fluid for the system to operate within its designed parameters. Again, this was a very short video and you should always consult your make and models service manual before doing any work on your vehicle.
holy fucking shit i wish i would have seen this last weekend. Ive wasted 2 hours bleeding my front brake to no avail. bought some little adapters to try reverse bleeding (up through the bleeder valve). if that didnt work i was gonna rebuild my master cylinder! After watching this, 10 minutes my front brake is like new. Thank you!!
You’re good. He is right, it is essentially the same procedure however, bleeding the front brakes can sometimes be difficult especially if the system has been completely drained. I generally use a vacuum (powered or pump style) to avoid the headaches.
Some reservoir caps have a rubber bladder that will displace the correct amount of brake fluid when inserted but to be safe you can fill it to the top of the sight glass after all bleeding and pad seating is complete.
@BasketCaseKx250f you could potentially have a bad master cylinder. Some of these can be pretty stubborn to bleed too, but I find that it’s mostly front brakes. Rears are generally pretty easy. Try to pump the pedal a bunch of times, hold it down and then open the bleeder. Then close the bleeder and do it all over again.
@@restoroosterohv so I tried that I also filled the brake line and caliper and master cylinder from the bleeder and it holds pressure for a minute and than the brake pedal is barely doing anything, I think it’s a faulty master cylinder
You’re the FN man you save me from a headache I couldn’t understand why it wasn’t taking in fluid after pumping and bleeding 10 times lol, the one pump technique is what does it 👍🏼
Glad to help
Thank you sheesh. I was bleeding it like I would a car. 🤣
Talk about a mess 😂
20 likes? Super underrated!
Thank you for your feedback and support!
Thanks for watching and for your comment. Unfortunately due to the extremely brief available time allotted for a "shorts" video, I was unable to get more in depth with fluid dynamics. You are absolutely correct, as the brakes are used, heat will build in the system. Anything heated will expand so space in the master cylinder is necessary as fluids are incompressible. The brakes could conceivably begin to drag which compounds the problem, more drag, more heat... On some motorcycles, there is a sight window with a minimum and maximum lines and the brake fluid should be adjusted to max after a brake pad change. Brake fluid should never be "topped off" because the master cylinder reservoir and brake levels are calibrated to be at the minimum level when the pads are also at the minimum level. In an automobile, this will generally trigger a brake warning lamp on the dash. But I digress. Some (mostly rear) brake master cylinders caps have a rubber seal with a built in air bladder. When you top these off after a brake replacement, pushing the bladder back into the fluid will displace the proper amount of fluid for the system to operate within its designed parameters. Again, this was a very short video and you should always consult your make and models service manual before doing any work on your vehicle.
Thanks for the tutorial
I liked the ending 👈👈
Thank you for watching
@@restoroosterohv thanks right to the point better than the 10min videos with unnecessary talking 👍🏾👍🏾
Thank you for watching.
holy fucking shit i wish i would have seen this last weekend. Ive wasted 2 hours bleeding my front brake to no avail. bought some little adapters to try reverse bleeding (up through the bleeder valve). if that didnt work i was gonna rebuild my master cylinder! After watching this, 10 minutes my front brake is like new. Thank you!!
Wow, sorry to hear that. The front brake can be a pain and I usually do them with a vacuum bleeder. Glad I was able to help though.
awesome video. right to the point. thanks for the help
Thank you for your feedback and support
this is all i needed thanks mang
Thank you
I’m new to this hopefully this works 😂😭
If it doesn’t, you have master cylinder issues or your bleeder screw is plugged.
Thanks it seems pretty easy! Just trying to learn more and more so i can work on my own bike. Could you do a video of the front brake too?
Thank you. Next bike I do front brakes I will do a video for you.
@@restoroosterohv cheers man
It's the same...
@@heyman8820just want to see it and make sure i do it right, is that a problem😂
You’re good. He is right, it is essentially the same procedure however, bleeding the front brakes can sometimes be difficult especially if the system has been completely drained. I generally use a vacuum (powered or pump style) to avoid the headaches.
great this helped alot thankks
Thanks for watching.
What tool to open the bleeder
It will depend on your machine but typically an 8mm wrench.
Thanks
You’re welcome.
Are we suppose to top it off with a lot of oil with cap or only to the sight glass where it says min
Some reservoir caps have a rubber bladder that will displace the correct amount of brake fluid when inserted but to be safe you can fill it to the top of the sight glass after all bleeding and pad seating is complete.
I was looking specificly for yz85 brake bleed but both these bikes are hidrualic brake should be the same thing right?
Absolutely
Its that easy?? Jesus im never paying a garage to do them again
It’s that easy. The front brakes can be done the same way, although they tend to be stubborn and bleed much easier with a vacuum bleeder.
Preesh
I did it exactly how you said and my master cylinder had no change in fluid
Is fluid coming out of the bleeder?
@@restoroosterohv no it sounds like there is a little bit of fluid in the hose but there isn’t any fluid coming out
@BasketCaseKx250f you could potentially have a bad master cylinder. Some of these can be pretty stubborn to bleed too, but I find that it’s mostly front brakes. Rears are generally pretty easy. Try to pump the pedal a bunch of times, hold it down and then open the bleeder. Then close the bleeder and do it all over again.
@@restoroosterohv so I tried that I also filled the brake line and caliper and master cylinder from the bleeder and it holds pressure for a minute and than the brake pedal is barely doing anything, I think it’s a faulty master cylinder
@BasketCaseKx250f sounds about right. Like I said, the rear brakes are generally pretty easy to bleed.