KLR 650 PCV Mod
Вставка
- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- Idea from this thread: www.klr650.net/...
Purpose: only lets the engine case exhale, not suck air back in.
Side effect: potentially reduces or eliminates your engine's oil drinking problem
If you do this mod and don't like it, it is easily reversible.
Tools you'll need:
Pliers
Flathead screwdriver
Other stuff you'll need:
Hose clamps (3)
PCV Valve (1)
-O'Reilly Auto/Microguard PCV345
-FRAM FV345 & FV345DP
-BWD Auto PCV358
-Napa Item MPF39358 or CRB29358
-Advance Auto, Purolator #PV1050
(Thanks to 'nnichols' for the cross reference)
*Corrections: 1) I said PVC Valve. That is incorrect, it is PCV Valve. 2) PCV valves can be any orientation and work the way they are supposed to, maybe not the way you intend. See clarification below.
*Clarifications: When I said "Won't do anything," I meant "won't do what you want it to."
My apologies for any errors and misunderstandings.
The engine breather hose is accessible from the left side of the bike. Use the pliers to move the crimp clamp holding the hose to the air box down. Use the screwdriver to break the seal between the hose and the box and work it off. Push the rubber "clamp" (mine was completely dry-rotted and not being very useful) up and use the screwdriver to break the seal between the engine and the hose and work that off.
Mark the section of hose that you want to cut out (I cut out just enough so that the overall hose length wouldn't change very much). If you want, I'm pretty sure it would still work just fine if you only made 1 cut and did a simply infix of the valve. Make sure the threaded end is towards the air box (the numbers on the hex part of the valve should be upright when installed).
Put the hose clamps on around the PCV valve and tighten them down (not super-duper tight, it's only plastic inside the hose!).
Slip the 3rd hose clamp on the bottom of the hose (don't tighten it yet) and push the hose on the engine breather port. Put the crimp clamp over the hose, holding it open with the pliers and slide the top of the hose onto the air box port as far as you can. Now tighten the engine end hose clamp.
Start 'er up and make sure that you have the valve oriented properly (threaded end up, numbers upright). You should hear (and feel) a clicking coming from the valve.
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Did a similar mod on a 1975 Norton Commando. Instead of a PCV valve used a Dorman 80190 power brake check valve.The Norton forums claim it works better than a PCV, but don't see why a PCV would work also. Just make sure you can blow through it in the direction away from the engine. Works like a charm. Besides (at least on paper) reducing HP pumping losses it vastly reduces engine oil leaks that old British bikes are famous for.
That wrench section you can refer to as the HEX ...... as it is six sided. But wrench section we get the point . Cheers!
The injection style hose clamps look better and they don't have slits in them like the old style hose clamps . Either one does not need to be crazy tight ... no need to mutilate the hose.
@DecaPierce In this case, the valve is being used as a check valve, allowing crankcase pressure to be pushed out, but not allowing air to be drawn in. The idea is to always have a negative pressure in the crankcase to reduce crankcase pumping losses.
Thanks! By the way, Schnitz racing highly recommends this mod for the KLR.
Thanks for going to the trouble to do this.
I'm pretty content with the hose clamps I used (#10 if I recall correctly). I also like the idea of keeping the overall hose length the same, ie: making two cuts in the hoe rather than just one.
Going back to performance: I doubt my bike was burning any oil to begin with, and it sure isn't burning any noticeable amount right now, and I use it mostly for highway (75 - 85 indicated mph, 5000 - 6000ish rpm) which is where a lot of people report that they have to add oil regularly.
Good write-up Jamie.
Did the bike not come from the factory with this valve? This one way valve won't stop water from entering the crank case since vacuum is holding the valve open. Nevermind water in the crankcase though, if you get water in your aircleaner you have bigger problems. I don't see how you are changing anything from the intended purpose of this pipe. It is meant to burn hydrocarbons which wind up in the crankcase, reducing emissions and also eliminating pressure from within.
@Oldbmwr100rs Yes. The V-Strom seems to be the best option. I am looking at few of them that are for sale as we are typing. Thank you for your suggestion.
Very carefully and with a running start.
No, it did not come with a PCV valve from the factory. As I have yet to take one of these engines apart, I can only comment on how I think it works, so it might not be entirely accurate: as the piston goes up, it creates a negative "pressure" - a vacuum, which closes the valve. Then when with the power stroke and blow-by gas, there is a positive pressure that opens the valve and lets the pressure out.
I don't plan on fording any bodies of water deep enough to get water in the airbox.
YMMV.
is the versys motor prone to the same problems. I know it's newer is there a better bike .
What is the purpose of the PVC mod?
I did some other mods around the time I did this one, so I can't comment on increased performance. With the other mods and this one, I think (!) there is a slight performance boost. But that could also just be in my head.
As Xtreme pointed out in the forum, the valve can be mounted in any orientation and still do what it's supposed to. Had I known that earlier, I probably would have put it in the angled part of the tube, that way it wouldn't butt up against the airbox, but it still works.
man do people modify this bike. l wonder what the japanese who spent hours designing it would feel after seeing u guys frankenstain it
+Fernando Ramoa The KLR is known for a lot of corners having been cut in it's development! Weak subframe bolts, easily replaced with grade 8 ones. A really cheap and bad cooling system design the thermo-bob fixes. A very poor fitting and weak balancer adjuster that breaks and ruins the engine, replaced with a well made and better fitting part. Poor forks and shock, but that's pretty typical of most bikes.
The bike is basically good, these modifications add many years and miles to them though and are worth it.
+Oldbmwr100rs I know that! I own one! I'm not undermining the mods, I'm simply ponting out how much ppl modify it
those big hose clamps don't look very elegant, do they.
very cool! but what are the benefits of having an exhaust not suck in air?
Yes, probably... if you do some major frame re-working.
I have a 2009 and it gets oil thirsty from time to time, someone mention that I should d this mod so does it really help? where can I find the part?
How can I put a V-twin 1000 Suzuki engine in my KLR?
What is the brand or part # for the valve? O'Rilley couldn't find a valve with the proper dimensions.
eric sorich check with your favorite hardware store for pvc part.
Please check the video description, 3rd block of text.
do i need to put a pcv valve on your bike?
I found the valve here at Auto Zone with a part# PCV1175DL
@ghotioutofh2o But dude, will it fit?
Love the video! Has anyone found this PCV valve in Australia?
@shasha1873 I'd like to see someone put the Versys motor in a KLR.
i own both versys and klr, i have seriously thought on that !!
Nope, I've already done it.
P C V. You have closed it off.
@shasha1873 Buy a V-Strom.
@shasha1873 Get lighter girlfriend.