@@TheWilltoBuild Been off grid for nearly 10 years, when I first started I was told to not bother, it doesn't work, you'll live like a pauper. They were wrong, Off Grid Solar works, got all the mod cons and then some, not a problem. My ageing SLA's won't last forever, bring on Solar V2.0 and your wisdom. New 8 Kw inverter, new LFP's and the most essential ingredient, your videos. Things are looking good, this is essentially a life or death situation, if that woman I'm married to hasn't got enough power to run the coffee machine first thing in the morning life as I know it will be meaningless and not worth living. You're a life saver.
The last step, something about the positive cable and 53.4V was missing in the video. What did you connect your voltmeter to. I couldn't see it from 12:13. Can you hook up 16 cells to make a 24V system?
For the voltmeter, you can either connect it directly to the battery (main cell negative, main cell positive) or if you have a BMS hooked up, main cell positive, and BMS B-. Also, you can use 16 cells to make a 24v system. Either you can make two separate 8s 24 batteries and wire them in parallel or you can make an 8s2p battery, where you wire two cells together in parallel, do this 8 separate times, and then wire those pairs of cells together in series.
This is exactly what I need. I like the way Black is negative and white positive sounds like American system. I really think each wire should have a small in line fuse near the terminals to prevent a fire incase of unlikely event of shorts between wires. Great Video
Nice work here. I'm uncertain about the P- and B- cables coming out of the BMS. I see the B- goes to the main negative, but the camera angle didn't show where to connect the P-. You said your volt meter showed the correct voltage and when the camera backed out the P- was on the table.
12:29 according to manual, next step is to measure the resistance between B- and P-. It should appear as a short. If it is open, then something is wrong ie the BMS is opencircuit dead.
Got a question... did you clean the aluminum terminal posts? Aluminum will tarnish in a couple hrs. Did you put conductive paste on the terminals? Did you clean the copper busbars that makes contact with the aluminum terminals? Are you going to clamp them in a fixture like Eve says you can do to prevent swelling and provides another 1000 cycles? Swelling also will put tremendous pressure on the terminal studs with the busbars pulling against them.
All great questions. I try to focus on one main thing at a time in my videos, but I will be doing a follow up video next week on how to prepare your cells/terminals for final installation.
Hello @TheWilltoBuild. I have 42 battery modules from an old NISSAN LEAF with 3.2V each. What kind of BMS should I get? Would one of this bms that you installed fit this solution but with less cables? Imagine 21 cables connected to groups of 2 modules? Or should I use 1 cable per module? Thank you in advance
i don't like the length of the studs. since they are too long to use with a regular socket, it will be too tempting to use a wrench, which gives too much risk to short circuiting.
So what do you do with P-? Is P- hooked to - side on your inverter? Do you take connect positive (main positive on battery) to( 250 Amp breaker in line) to positive on inverter? Sorry for my stupid questions? I haven't even got into the Bluetooth part yet. If I can get it hooked up to my 12k growatt inverter to start, that would be great.
Random question - if you wire the DALY 16s BMS say in 8s will it still operate? I'm looking at getting 8 cells and thene expanding to 16 a little further down the track. I know the app allows you to change 'board 1 cell num' but just curious if it actually works. Obviously i'd need to adjust the min/max voltage etc...
A tip for your cell to cell bus bars. Put a piece of heat shrink tubing leaving about 20mm or 7/8" exposed on the ends. A cheap little piece of extra insurance against shorts. Any way to get extra insulation on the connections is a good thing. Batteries are NEVER off.
Wonderful video, I followed all the instructions though my DALY BMS is reading the voltage lower than the actual voltage (like if I measure the Open voltage of the batteries with a voltmeter I get 53V while Daly indicates that it is 52.5V). Any way I can solve this?
I think all the LCD displays are the same. The LCD is just an accessory: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002897035148.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.3.38ba76f68nfuAR&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.33416.213724.0&scm_id=1007.33416.213724.0&scm-url=1007.33416.213724.0&pvid=5d1f19d9-7913-4ee9-9077-162dedd44d0c&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.33416.213724.0,pvid:5d1f19d9-7913-4ee9-9077-162dedd44d0c,tpp_buckets:668%230%23131923%2359_668%23888%233325%237_23416%230%23213724%230_23416%236336%2330487%233_23416%234721%2321967%2394_23416%234722%2321972%238_668%232846%238111%231996_668%235811%2327180%2345_668%236421%2330831%23988_668%232717%237564%23693_668%231000022185%231000066059%230_668%233422%2315392%23201_4452%230%23226710%230_4452%233474%2316498%23979_4452%234862%2324463%23348_4452%233098%239599%23297_4452%235108%2323442%23732_4452%233564%2316062%23415&&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22scene%22:%2223416%22%7D
@@krg038 Good question. My cells are 280 ah and could technically pull 280 amps - but my system and inverter will only ever pull 150 amps, so I got a 250 amp BMS which gives me more than enough headroom to pull what I need. I could've gotten a 300 amp BMS but then I would be paying for more capacity in the BMS than I need.
I don't have my BMS in front of me. If you are doing 8s (8 cells in series), and wired everything correctly, the blue B - wire goes to the final negative terminal of the cells, and the P - is now the negative terminal of the battery and in conjunction with the positive terminal of the battery is how you charge and discharge the battery. Look at this BMS wiring diagram here shopee.ph/DALY-BMS-LiFePO4-16S-48V-20A-Common-Port-with-Balance-i.265107976.4152389743.
QUESTION ON THE LENGTH of the Red and Black. I understand that it needed to be the same. But do u guys calculate the Blue - out of the (-) of the BMS out of - battery? and the black - from the BMS which is like 10 inches in blue and black on the bMS ? my battery got high voltage at cell 15 , 16 but low volt at 1234 little higher than 56789. The 15 n 16 cells got to 3.5-3.67 while other are still in the 3.3. Thanks (i understand from busbar to inverter black and red are the same length.)
Can i do that same configuration for a 16 cell 24v by turning that top set of 8 cells around where both positives meet up and both negatives basically keeping the 27v the same for all 16 cells and adding the amps together ??
I have a question. Say I run 8s2p. I cannot monitor the cells individual voltages? I would be monitoring two cells voltage? What if one cell in the parallel string goes bad? Any way to overcome that?
Good question. Just make two separate 8s batteries, with their own BMS, and then wire those batteries in parallel. That will allow you to monitor each cell individually.
Hmm, that is complicated. For a 12v you need a 4s. If you want to make a 12v with 16 cells, I would say make two 4s2p batteries and then wire them in parallel. Each one of those two batteries should have its own 4s BMS.
What is your expected maximum current draw? If you need the ability to handle 500A, say because you are running a 6KW inverter, then a pair of these BMS will not suffice. In that situation you will require four fully paralleled batteries and four BMS. If your maximum continuous draw is only 150A then it’s possible to put four cells in parallel and then in series. In the second case it’s a single 4s BMS. Parallel, sometimes dozens of cells, before series is very common with the cylindrical cells.
Sir, how much is the resistance and power of the resistor you used to short the bue cable of the bms and negative side of the battery. Any suggestion sir for example that the bms is not active uoon the completion of wirings.Thanks a lot
Thanks for the video. I have 16 Lifepo4 3.2v 280ah cells coming very soon. I was looking for a video to walk me through this step-by-step and yours does that. Where/how do I get or build a bus bar to connect the two 8 cell rows. Does the bar need to be made of copper? What gauge wire would I use to connect the pos and neg terminals to my inverter (which I don't have yet).
All good questions. Bus bars you can make yourself (I have a video and there are many better ones out there). For the gauge wire, it depends on how much current you will use and how long the cables will be. I personally use 2 awg for a system that uses up to 6,000 watts at a time. If you have an inverter that will use more power and it will be far from your battery, you'll need bigger cables.
Great video, so clear and concise. Do you know if it is possible to lengthen and shorten the balancing leads? I want to line up my cells so they make a slimline battery and fear the furthest leads may be too short.
I think you definitely can. Shortening is straightforward. For lengthening, there are ways to extend wires, and as these leads carry very little current I think if you do it right it should be fine.
The screen only turns on when the BMS is turned on. The BMS only turns on when there is current flowing through it. So either charge or discharge the battery using the BMS and the screen should turn on.
The same BMS as reviewed, arrived via AliExpress, took roughly 3 weeks, £16 + change, fully assembled, just a little bit of work attaching the leads. Does what is says on the tin, spot on. The bit of test nickel that came with the kit was cheap plated junk, but sparks like mad lol, only mistake, don’t test on the place mats, burnt two tiny spots! Hide the evidence and blame the dogs 😆
Thanks for the video, super helpful! What size of ring terminals are you using, I am setting up my system and want to use ring terminals but the wire is so small..., Thanks!
Hi dear i have problem when i connect the bms with active Eqlizuer and turn off the circute breaker and turn on ...appear fualt in bms ...and should be replace the bms ...what i do plz ... I used bms daly 16S with active equalizer 16S
Nice, very clear guide lines. Thank You, could you pls give us details about ratio of A. Battery capacity Ah. B. Consumable load Ah. C. BMS rates Ah. Example ( a. 72V 36 Ah, : b. 30Ah, : c. BMS 72v 50Ah 23s) is it correct if wrong pls share correct ratio. For Lifepo4. Thank you
My battery sits at 50.4v and once wiring up and I test it on the black wire as the negative the multi meter shows 48.8v each batteries at 3.336v all were top balanced for like over 2 months ++ & - - ? If you are able to help with any ideas greatly welcome !
Hello dear , the size of BMS in Amber depends on what ? Depends on the batteries last Amber , for example I connect 4 cells in series and I get ( 12v , 280Ah ) how I calculate the best size of BMS for this batteries is there an equation so I can apply it for any batteries I vs next times ,,,,,,,, can I use pwm or mppt to charge lifepo4 batteries or it will damage them
For BMS, you need a BMS that is designed for 4s, 12v batteries. Otherwise, you just need to pick one that can handle the current you need. Some people only need 100 amp BMS, some people need 250 amp BMS. The size of the BMS depends on how many amps you want to draw from it. PWM and MPPT both should work, but I would recommend MPPT.
TheWilltoBuild why some people put the positive wire of both inverter and charger in same point(nut) of battery positive , I think it’s wrong thing to do that , am I right ?
Sorry to take so long to get back to you. Trying plugging the screen in and out? If the BMS is awake, and power is flowing into or out of the battery, then if the screen is plugged in it should light up. If it doesn't, I don't know what the issue is.
All the videos I've seen so far does not talk about the P- wire and its just dangling. For a newbie, I'm really confused about this wire and where it goes
For a few reasons. This BMS is programmable, so I can set over current protection to any value I want and therefore the bigger the BMS the better. But also, alot of cheaper BMS say they are rated for a certain amperage, but then get really hot when they approach that actual value. So most people discount their BMS, i.e., if it says 100 amps assume it is really only good for 80. In my system I have a 6000 watt inverter, which when fully used is going to pull somewhere around 125 amps, so I would say I need a BMS that is at least 150 amps. So I could have gone with a smaller BMS, but again this one is fully customizable. Also, having an extra large BMS allows me to expand my system in the future if I want without necessarily needing to replace the BMS.
Nice video. I ordered the same Daly smart BMS 250A. Still waiting for it. I'm curious if you have a diagram of your whole planned system. That would really help me. I'm trying to select wire sizes fuses shutoff etc and will have 3 strings of 2s2p 315 Watt panels tied to 3 makeskyblue controllers and a Genetry 6000 watt inverter charger... Should get that soon. I'm planning 50 amps 220 AC in and up to 30 amp 220 output maximum.
@@allmomomosthomebus3895 I have 10x 300 watt panels in series of two, so 2s5p and using a Victron charge controller. In hindsight I wish I had purchased twelve so I could put three or four in series, but it should be enough for my needs.
@@TheWilltoBuild I'm doing 3 strings of 315 watts as 2s2p with 3 MakeSkyBlue controllers. 2 initially for 8 panels on the bus roof but another 4 as a rigid solar panel awning on the side.
Instructions with a BMS?? You are either joking or you purchase your BMS from an American company (if there is such a thing). I use either JK or JBD BMS and never got any directions.
Dude, those dinkyass lil buss bars won’t transfer current very well. Expect balancing issues within a month. Do yourself a favor. Double up on those bars!
Hands-down the best 48 V video on planet UA-cam!
I can't stop liking this video it is so straightforward thank you.
Thanks, just wanted a sanity check before connecting my 16s, thanks for being my 'double check' - appreciate you uploading!
Clear, concise, singularly the most important video on UA-cam for me.
That is the kindest thing anyone has said about any of my videos. So glad I could be of help.
@@TheWilltoBuild Been off grid for nearly 10 years, when I first started I was told to not bother, it doesn't work, you'll live like a pauper.
They were wrong, Off Grid Solar works, got all the mod cons and then some, not a problem.
My ageing SLA's won't last forever, bring on Solar V2.0 and your wisdom.
New 8 Kw inverter, new LFP's and the most essential ingredient, your videos.
Things are looking good, this is essentially a life or death situation, if that woman I'm married to hasn't got enough power to run the coffee machine first thing in the morning life as I know it will be meaningless and not worth living.
You're a life saver.
Dude thank you so much... i am wiring a 14s lifepo4 battery with daly bms today for my esk8. I feel so confident now that I found your video. Cheers!
Glad I could help!
The last step, something about the positive cable and 53.4V was missing in the video. What did you connect your voltmeter to. I couldn't see it from 12:13. Can you hook up 16 cells to make a 24V system?
For the voltmeter, you can either connect it directly to the battery (main cell negative, main cell positive) or if you have a BMS hooked up, main cell positive, and BMS B-.
Also, you can use 16 cells to make a 24v system. Either you can make two separate 8s 24 batteries and wire them in parallel or you can make an 8s2p battery, where you wire two cells together in parallel, do this 8 separate times, and then wire those pairs of cells together in series.
This is exactly what I need. I like the way Black is negative and white positive sounds like American system. I really think each wire should have a small in line fuse near the terminals to prevent a fire incase of unlikely event of shorts between wires. Great Video
Nice 👍 they say you are not an expert untill you can explain it simple, you just did ! Thanks 🙏
So the last wire you didn't connect to the positive terminal of the battery ? Or does that last cable go to the inverter ?
Once you have the bms hook up, how to wire the whole battery for the charger and an inverter?
Nice work here. I'm uncertain about the P- and B- cables coming out of the BMS. I see the B- goes to the main negative, but the camera angle didn't show where to connect the P-. You said your volt meter showed the correct voltage and when the camera backed out the P- was on the table.
Well explained, don’t know how to give you 5 stars.
12:29 according to manual, next step is to measure the resistance between B- and P-. It should appear as a short. If it is open, then something is wrong ie the BMS is opencircuit dead.
I'm building one of these and this video was extremely helpful.
Thanks for sharing and as always keep building 👍
Got a question... did you clean the aluminum terminal posts? Aluminum will tarnish in a couple hrs. Did you put conductive paste on the terminals? Did you clean the copper busbars that makes contact with the aluminum terminals?
Are you going to clamp them in a fixture like Eve says you can do to prevent swelling and provides another 1000 cycles? Swelling also will put tremendous pressure on the terminal studs with the busbars pulling against them.
All great questions. I try to focus on one main thing at a time in my videos, but I will be doing a follow up video next week on how to prepare your cells/terminals for final installation.
Thanks guys, very clear explanation
Hey, great video, but what about the positive terminal?
Yep! Positive!
I know this is an old video but just getting into the stuff so this battery break is it the equivalent of three server rack batteries
Hello @TheWilltoBuild.
I have 42 battery modules from an old NISSAN LEAF with 3.2V each. What kind of BMS should I get? Would one of this bms that you installed fit this solution but with less cables? Imagine 21 cables connected to groups of 2 modules? Or should I use 1 cable per module?
Thank you in advance
i don't like the length of the studs. since they are too long to use with a regular socket, it will be too tempting to use a wrench, which gives too much risk to short circuiting.
So what do you do with P-?
Is P- hooked to - side on your inverter?
Do you take connect positive (main positive on battery) to( 250 Amp breaker in line) to positive on inverter?
Sorry for my stupid questions? I haven't even got into the Bluetooth part yet. If I can get it hooked up to my 12k growatt inverter to start, that would be great.
11:32 just as you connect that blue wire, tiny dusts flew across your camera which at first glance appears like smoke on our end.
Hi can you tell me what pannels and how manny watt do you use on this batterys how long do you have now this battery do they have probelems
Random question - if you wire the DALY 16s BMS say in 8s will it still operate? I'm looking at getting 8 cells and thene expanding to 16 a little further down the track. I know the app allows you to change 'board 1 cell num' but just curious if it actually works. Obviously i'd need to adjust the min/max voltage etc...
Thank you I’ve got exactly the same set up !
A tip for your cell to cell bus bars. Put a piece of heat shrink tubing leaving about 20mm or 7/8" exposed on the ends. A cheap little piece of extra insurance against shorts. Any way to get extra insulation on the connections is a good thing. Batteries are NEVER off.
That is a good point. Any setup would benefit from this.
we have
Wonderful video, I followed all the instructions though my DALY BMS is reading the voltage lower than the actual voltage (like if I measure the Open voltage of the batteries with a voltmeter I get 53V while Daly indicates that it is 52.5V). Any way I can solve this?
What about p- will you connected to the battery positive
Nice clear cut instruction! Do you have a link to the 16s lcd display? I’m having a hard time finding anything besides an 8S
I think all the LCD displays are the same. The LCD is just an accessory: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002897035148.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.3.38ba76f68nfuAR&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.33416.213724.0&scm_id=1007.33416.213724.0&scm-url=1007.33416.213724.0&pvid=5d1f19d9-7913-4ee9-9077-162dedd44d0c&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.33416.213724.0,pvid:5d1f19d9-7913-4ee9-9077-162dedd44d0c,tpp_buckets:668%230%23131923%2359_668%23888%233325%237_23416%230%23213724%230_23416%236336%2330487%233_23416%234721%2321967%2394_23416%234722%2321972%238_668%232846%238111%231996_668%235811%2327180%2345_668%236421%2330831%23988_668%232717%237564%23693_668%231000022185%231000066059%230_668%233422%2315392%23201_4452%230%23226710%230_4452%233474%2316498%23979_4452%234862%2324463%23348_4452%233098%239599%23297_4452%235108%2323442%23732_4452%233564%2316062%23415&&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22scene%22:%2223416%22%7D
Very nice. Watched a couple of your videos. Looks like your cells are 320a. You are using a 250a bms. Is that under rated? Explain please.
@@krg038 Good question. My cells are 280 ah and could technically pull 280 amps - but my system and inverter will only ever pull 150 amps, so I got a 250 amp BMS which gives me more than enough headroom to pull what I need. I could've gotten a 300 amp BMS but then I would be paying for more capacity in the BMS than I need.
I am trying to convert my mobility scooter to 8 cells in series , two packs of 4 =24v , 8s BMS . where do I connect the P- black wire ?
I don't have my BMS in front of me. If you are doing 8s (8 cells in series), and wired everything correctly, the blue B - wire goes to the final negative terminal of the cells, and the P - is now the negative terminal of the battery and in conjunction with the positive terminal of the battery is how you charge and discharge the battery. Look at this BMS wiring diagram here shopee.ph/DALY-BMS-LiFePO4-16S-48V-20A-Common-Port-with-Balance-i.265107976.4152389743.
Super informative video. Thanks!!
May I ask where you purchased the nice little touch screen you used in the video? Thanks
QUESTION ON THE LENGTH of the Red and Black. I understand that it needed to be the same. But do u guys calculate the Blue - out of the (-) of the BMS out of - battery? and the black - from the BMS which is like 10 inches in blue and black on the bMS ? my battery got high voltage at cell 15 , 16 but low volt at 1234 little higher than 56789. The 15 n 16 cells got to 3.5-3.67 while other are still in the 3.3. Thanks (i understand from busbar to inverter black and red are the same length.)
Can i do that same configuration for a 16 cell 24v by turning that top set of 8 cells around where both positives meet up and both negatives basically keeping the 27v the same for all 16 cells and adding the amps together ??
I have a question. Say I run 8s2p.
I cannot monitor the cells individual voltages? I would be monitoring two cells voltage? What if one cell in the parallel string goes bad? Any way to overcome that?
Good question. Just make two separate 8s batteries, with their own BMS, and then wire those batteries in parallel. That will allow you to monitor each cell individually.
@@TheWilltoBuild Ah I see so wire the positive of the 8s to positive of the 8s and the two negatives but not using the bus bars. Got it! Thanks man.
What kind of BMS do you need when you want 12V with 16 cells? Do you need also a 16s BMS, or a 4s BMS? Greetings from Holland.
Hmm, that is complicated. For a 12v you need a 4s. If you want to make a 12v with 16 cells, I would say make two 4s2p batteries and then wire them in parallel. Each one of those two batteries should have its own 4s BMS.
@@TheWilltoBuild Thank you very much!!!
What is your expected maximum current draw? If you need the ability to handle 500A, say because you are running a 6KW inverter, then a pair of these BMS will not suffice. In that situation you will require four fully paralleled batteries and four BMS. If your maximum continuous draw is only 150A then it’s possible to put four cells in parallel and then in series. In the second case it’s a single 4s BMS. Parallel, sometimes dozens of cells, before series is very common with the cylindrical cells.
Sir, how much is the resistance and power of the resistor you used to short the bue cable of the bms and negative side of the battery. Any suggestion sir for example that the bms is not active uoon the completion of wirings.Thanks a lot
Any reason I shouldn’t just wire up for 12volt for my van? 16cells 320ah 3000w inverter?
What are those bus bars rated for
Superb explanations I really like 👍i am owning G wiz
Can I connect this bank battery with another bank same connection? With another bms
If I understand your question correctly, yes. If you have two batteries, with their own BMS, you can connect them in parallel.
Thanks for the video. I have 16 Lifepo4 3.2v 280ah cells coming very soon. I was looking for a video to walk me through this step-by-step and yours does that. Where/how do I get or build a bus bar to connect the two 8 cell rows. Does the bar need to be made of copper? What gauge wire would I use to connect the pos and neg terminals to my inverter (which I don't have yet).
All good questions. Bus bars you can make yourself (I have a video and there are many better ones out there). For the gauge wire, it depends on how much current you will use and how long the cables will be. I personally use 2 awg for a system that uses up to 6,000 watts at a time. If you have an inverter that will use more power and it will be far from your battery, you'll need bigger cables.
Nice video....What voltage must charge that battery bank (16S) of 51.2V of 360AH so that it reaches 100%?...thanks
thank you this is such a hugh help dude.
Great video, so clear and concise. Do you know if it is possible to lengthen and shorten the balancing leads? I want to line up my cells so they make a slimline battery and fear the furthest leads may be too short.
I think you definitely can. Shortening is straightforward. For lengthening, there are ways to extend wires, and as these leads carry very little current I think if you do it right it should be fine.
No you can't the wire should be tha same, otherwise balancing won't work properly.
great video! thanks!
what is name of that device you used to ready the battery voltage with Bluetooth
Very well explained bro 👌
Nice gloves. You definitely didn't commit any crimes prior to the filming of this video. 🤣
How to get the screen to turn on I have the exact system ?
The screen only turns on when the BMS is turned on. The BMS only turns on when there is current flowing through it. So either charge or discharge the battery using the BMS and the screen should turn on.
Was the copper link a bit of squashed copper pipe or a bar? Ps great BMS too, I’ve just ordered one for my project.
I was doing the squashed pipe, and that works, but if you are going to make a bunch, buy a bar yourself, its not a big deal and is worth it.
The same BMS as reviewed, arrived via AliExpress, took roughly 3 weeks, £16 + change, fully assembled, just a little bit of work attaching the leads. Does what is says on the tin, spot on. The bit of test nickel that came with the kit was cheap plated junk, but sparks like mad lol, only mistake, don’t test on the place mats, burnt two tiny spots! Hide the evidence and blame the dogs 😆
Thanks for the video, super helpful! What size of ring terminals are you using, I am setting up my system and want to use ring terminals but the wire is so small..., Thanks!
What size of those ring terminals are good for that battery the 5/16 ?
yep, the 5/16.
@@TheWilltoBuild Thank you Batteries are somewhere on a boat so buying the other stuff while I wait. ;)
I just noticed the bms in your link is 4s 12 volt, did amazon have a typo in their description?
Are you able to connect these in parallel too?
watched your vidoe, what was the input voltage to the bms.
The bms is designed for a 16s configuration which is a nominal 48volts.
Great stuff, sub'd! Whats that puff of smoke at 11:31 in the middle of the screen
Interesting. I think it is actually just dust getting super close to the lens and floating by.
I thought it was smoke as well
Hi..nice video..but where you put B+?
Hi, how did you make that custom bus bar?
Got a video on that. And lots other good videos on how to make busbars with bars of metal instead of pipe (which is what I used).
hope can help you,www.amazon.com/dp/B09BND78KT?ref=myi_title_dp
Great video vary easy to follow 👍
Hi dear i have problem when i connect the bms with active Eqlizuer and turn off the circute breaker and turn on ...appear fualt in bms ...and should be replace the bms ...what i do plz ...
I used bms daly 16S with active equalizer 16S
Does the BMS explain the fault? Are you sure the BMS is wired correctly?
Nice, very clear guide lines. Thank You, could you pls give us details about ratio of
A. Battery capacity Ah. B. Consumable load Ah. C. BMS rates Ah.
Example ( a. 72V 36 Ah, : b. 30Ah, : c. BMS 72v 50Ah 23s) is it correct if wrong pls share correct ratio. For Lifepo4.
Thank you
For these cells I have another video that goes into these details. But for this 16s battery, A. 48v 280 ah B. 280 ah C. 48v 200 amps.
My battery sits at 50.4v and once wiring up and I test it on the black wire as the negative the multi meter shows 48.8v each batteries at 3.336v all were top balanced for like over 2 months ++ & - - ? If you are able to help with any ideas greatly welcome !
Sorry, I am confused. What is the problem exactly?
I don’t know what that issue was but now the touchscreen will not light up it’s plugged in properly
Hi how do I connect 16s 24v?
What is on your gloves?
Black is positive? Makes sense
yeah their coloring is super unfortunate.
Do connect P- to positive?
Then take positive and negative directly off main positive and negative on the bank to inverter?
Hello dear , the size of BMS in Amber depends on what ? Depends on the batteries last Amber , for example I connect 4 cells in series and I get ( 12v , 280Ah ) how I calculate the best size of BMS for this batteries is there an equation so I can apply it for any batteries I vs next times ,,,,,,,, can I use pwm or mppt to charge lifepo4 batteries or it will damage them
For BMS, you need a BMS that is designed for 4s, 12v batteries. Otherwise, you just need to pick one that can handle the current you need. Some people only need 100 amp BMS, some people need 250 amp BMS. The size of the BMS depends on how many amps you want to draw from it. PWM and MPPT both should work, but I would recommend MPPT.
TheWilltoBuild why some people put the positive wire of both inverter and charger in same point(nut) of battery positive , I think it’s wrong thing to do that , am I right ?
Nice explanation!
I got the BMS Awake I set The parameters on my android phone in the app but my touchscreen like you have will not light up ? “ Any HELP Welcome ! “
Sorry to take so long to get back to you. Trying plugging the screen in and out? If the BMS is awake, and power is flowing into or out of the battery, then if the screen is plugged in it should light up. If it doesn't, I don't know what the issue is.
Can you re-send me a working link to that BMS?
Could you explain more detail of how to choose a right BMS to match your battery system. There are varied amperage spec can be chosen from the market
Good question, I think I'll do a video on this soon.
All the videos I've seen so far does not talk about the P- wire and its just dangling. For a newbie, I'm really confused about this wire and where it goes
What is BMS for?
The BMS basically protects the battery. I think that would be a good video for me to do to explain what a BMS does.
is it possible to connect 24 lifepo4 cells in a 16s configuration?
Nope. For 16s you need a multiple of 16, so 16, 32, etc. You can do 3 8s batteries with 24 cells.
Is there any way I can message you or email you with some questions?
what is the specs of each battery ,thanks
You didn't finish the video....where does the positive go......
On the positive side.
Usually on the main/most positive
Hallo erst mal gutes Video danke 👍
Ich habe jetzt auch solche Zellen Lifepo4 27 KWh 24 volt Anlage läuft super, die Geräte sind alles von Victron LG
Thanks very very much man ! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
What is the meaning of 16s, what does the s stand for
the 's' stands for series - as in 16 cell in series.
Thank you
WATCH A CLOSE CALL JUST AFTER 2:06 INTO THE VIDEO. THE BUSBAR NEAR STRUCK AND CREATE A SHORT BETWEEN THE TERMINALS OF A BATTERY CELL!!!!
why 250A bms?
For a few reasons. This BMS is programmable, so I can set over current protection to any value I want and therefore the bigger the BMS the better. But also, alot of cheaper BMS say they are rated for a certain amperage, but then get really hot when they approach that actual value. So most people discount their BMS, i.e., if it says 100 amps assume it is really only good for 80. In my system I have a 6000 watt inverter, which when fully used is going to pull somewhere around 125 amps, so I would say I need a BMS that is at least 150 amps. So I could have gone with a smaller BMS, but again this one is fully customizable. Also, having an extra large BMS allows me to expand my system in the future if I want without necessarily needing to replace the BMS.
@@TheWilltoBuild thanks for the explanation i am planning on building something like yours
Nice video. I ordered the same Daly smart BMS 250A. Still waiting for it. I'm curious if you have a diagram of your whole planned system. That would really help me. I'm trying to select wire sizes fuses shutoff etc and will have 3 strings of 2s2p 315 Watt panels tied to 3 makeskyblue controllers and a Genetry 6000 watt inverter charger... Should get that soon. I'm planning 50 amps 220 AC in and up to 30 amp 220 output maximum.
Good question. I think I can make a diagram and then a quick video on my personal setup. If all goes well I will be installing my inverter this week.
@@TheWilltoBuild that would be super cool. How many panels and strings are you doing? What charge controllers?
@@allmomomosthomebus3895 I have 10x 300 watt panels in series of two, so 2s5p and using a Victron charge controller. In hindsight I wish I had purchased twelve so I could put three or four in series, but it should be enough for my needs.
@@TheWilltoBuild I'm doing 3 strings of 315 watts as 2s2p with 3 MakeSkyBlue controllers. 2 initially for 8 panels on the bus roof but another 4 as a rigid solar panel awning on the side.
Totally lost me on last bit. Blue - connects to -, but you dont show what p- connects to
2:07 shivers 😬
Agreed, awful close on cell 7
You should do a video on this 16 series with another and parallel them lol
এটা বাংলাদেশের ৬০ ভোল্টের কত প্রাইস রেট হবে জানাবেন এটা
👍
I want to see him do that for 24 volt 16 cells
I'm to mad I can't find one video of 16 cells for a 24v battery bank all I'm seeing is 48v
You didnt mention P-
With ESP32 ESP NOW, no router, no wires needed.
it's not 48Volts . It's an open circuit .
Can't see. Reflection of light blinding.
I haven't noticed that issue - what point in the video?
@10:00
like the videos
Instructions with a BMS?? You are either joking or you purchase your BMS from an American company (if there is such a thing). I use either JK or JBD BMS and never got any directions.
বাংলাদেশ প্রাইস রেট কত বাংলাদেশে প্রাইস রেট কত ৬০ ভোল্ট
Dude, those dinkyass lil buss bars won’t transfer current very well. Expect balancing issues within a month. Do yourself a favor. Double up on those bars!
Those are just for demonstration purposes, I've since made my own. But I also think that they will be just fine for 100 amps or less.