Another great episode of this series! Thank you for all your hard work and effort to make these videos for our pleasure. It’s truly a labor of love. As much as I enjoy working the wood, my absolute favorite part is when you get to see the wood pop with life and beauty as the finishing process starts. Thank you again for sharing your videos. Roy Auburn, WA.
Thanks, Martin. Just remember, this method doesn't lend itself well to stocks that have been stained. You'll see why in the next video in this series. The jacket was a Christmas gift from Mrs Pellets and Pistons. 😊 Thanks for watching, my friend.
When working with older tinted finishes, on Beech stocks, you may actually have to sand and bleach the stock w/ oxalic acid, such as Savogran wood bleach. Otherwise it can end up patchy and spotted like an old cur dog... 😝 (Pretty much only applies to "Beech" stocks) The bleach with remove the spots quicker than sanding. Too much sanding and you end up reshaping your stock ! 🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️
It is indeed, my friend. There's a real sense of satisfaction that comes from taking on a project like this build. Once finished, it becomes an everlasting source of satisfaction that generations can enjoy. Good stuff. Thanks for watching, my friend.
The grain is looking real beautiful and jumping out at you. Your doing a fantastic job. And we'll done to Mark, being a lefty myself the cheek peace is just stunning 😍
The stock is a Commemorative Air Arms Pro Elite pattern made by Jim Maccari @ Air Rifle Headquarters back in the day when he still sold D.I.Y. stocks. One of his finest patterns too in my opinion. 😉👍
There ya' go, my friend. Just remember, if you decide to stain the stock, you won't be able to apply this technique. The 45's stock is most likely beech. Beech is pretty plain and benefits greatly by adding a little color. You could use this technique and leave the wood natural. You'd end up with a straw blonde colored stock. Thanks as always for your viewership, Iwan.
Hi Kevin, I never thought watching a guy sand a pice of wood would be so intresting.....😅 that stock looks georgious it will be fantastic when it's done. I'm no woodworking expert but as well as using sandpaper I also found using 0000 grit steel wool gives a silky smooth finish on timber. Anyway great video as always can't wait to see the finished product. Happy St. Patrick's day next weekend from Ireland ☘
You're right, Graham. 0000 steel wool is a good way to buff between coats. I stopped using it because it'll often leave small strands behind that, if not discovered, end up being coated over. Happy St. Patrick's Day to as well, my friend.
RE: 0000 Steel Wool. A few thoughts. 🤔 1st. and foremost steel wool is shipped oiled to prevent "Rust" 😉 So it's best to rinse it in a Mason Jar of lacquer thinner to remove the oil. (Might take two applications) Then let it dry thoroughly. 2nd. While steel wool is excellent for polishing out surface coatings like acrylics and lacquers, when working with incorporated oil finishes the strands can easily immbed in the grain of the wood, and mix with the oil itself darkening the finish and dulling the refraction of your brilliant, shiny new oil. Steel wool is cut and spun into pads in a linear fashion making it cut in, bind and tear off into the grain of the wood. The newer polyester 3M type abrasive pads are woven homogenously and don't tend to shed. They are specifically designed not to. This was the greater point to woven materials. 😊 Slàinte, Graham 🥃... 🍺😉 🏴🇮🇪 from the Irish Quarters, Marc
@@marcmyers1465 thanks Marc, Intresting points you have raised, never thought of the oil to stop the steel wool rusting, its bound to tarnish the wood some what. Are the Polyester pads similar to scotch bright...??
@@grahambamford9073Yes, basically Scotch Brite. From course to find is Green, Red, Grey, and White. Red is the most useful for oil finishes, and for airgun internal work as well. 😉👍 The Classic London Oil finish is applied to "WALNUT" garnet sanded to 180 then oiled w/ Raw linseed oil and sanded to fill at 220. And "Then" you start applying your finish a little at a time and stretch it thin with the heal of you palm to cover the stock, bit by bit until fully covered. Then you let it dry 2 to 3 hours and start all over with a second coat. Let it sit for 72 hours and start again, for as many coats as you can stand ! 😆 And yes y'er hand is gonna heat up, hopefully the swelling blisters will settle down over the next 72 hours. 😖 That's your "Classic" historical Royal London Oil finish. It tends to impart a deep chestnut brown tint. Tru-Oil has dryers and imparts a clearer, brighter, golden tone. Raw "unboiled" linseed oil is actually kinda pea green and that produces the darker brown tone. It also darkens with age, but it also tends to be softer than dry oils. 😕 The best part of oil finishes is they're easily mended with a light buffing and another coat of oil, and tend to last a lifetime! 😃👍 Tru-Oil on Beech tends to produce a honey gold sheen like classic Danish oil, but the oil can be tinted with a few drops of asphaltum (plain old roofing pitch) 😉 To produce browner tones to suit you, but again, remember it Will darken with age. 🤷🏼♂️
Hey! I recently discovered your channel and wanted to give you some kudos for your laid-back, no-nonsense, and genuinely cool videos. Keep up the great work!
Nice information on stock work 👍 and has you proved, it's not a five minute job , passience is required and double checking thriught the process , I also found this out a number of years ago my friend , cheers
@@neiledwards8931 It certainly does require patience. It's sitting quietly and safely in a padded case awaiting the checkering that I'll be doing this winter. Stay tuned.
I could watch your work for hours ,love the relaxed energy, I've got a cheap air that was my dad's ,its got a plastic stock and the camo coating on it that's gone sticky, not a lot on the interweb about how to remove it ,but I did see someone say 95% alcohol and wire wool ,it's taking ages to come off ,was going to try paint striper but I am worried about damaging the plastic stock ,,I picked up my HW97K last week ,only put a few pellets through it as I've not got a sight yet ,I've ordered a spring sleeve to see if that will help reduce the twang 😊, I will do a full degrease and apply molly grease and tidy up any machine flaws and polish the end the spring, I won't touch the trigger as that is so sweet out of the box 😊
I'm not sure what to recommend for removing that camo coating. I'll bet that the spray on bed liner finish would cover it and look quite nice. Congratulations on the 97. It's a wonderful rifle. I wish you much enjoyment from it. Best of luck with the tune. Thanks for watching, my friend.
Back in the early 2000's many economy rifles and scopes used soft vulcanized paints for traction and a trendy military look. Unfortunately these finishes would degrade similar to dry rot. Made worse by the use of any petroleum based cleaners and preservatives. These can be removed with 95% alc. or mineral spirits, and preferably either the White or Red 3M abrasive pads. 😉 All you can really do is try a small test patch in the most discreet place, and see how it effects any plastics ? 🤷🏼♂️ Manufacturers used many, Many different types of plastics, and if that plastic is styrene based, mineral spirits CAN very well dissolve the plastic, and a more aggressive abrasive will just turn it into a gooey plastic slurry... 🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️ HTH. Prof M 🤓
By all means DO make sure to finish/seal the inletting, and fastening points. This will prevent any shrinkage, and warping as the stock ages. Critical for Maple and Black Cherry, still necessary for Walnut, not quite as critical for Industrial Steamed Beech, but I still do it anyway as you never know whether the stock will ultimately end up in a high humidity environment. Just make sure to blot up any excess oil. 😉 Looking forward to the grain filling sequence ! 😀👍
Way ahead of ya' this time, Marc. I'll be brushing a liberal amount of oil into the hidden areas before I begin the final, finish building process. Thanks as always, my friend. Your input is invaluable.
I use Hawke Airmax scopes a lot. Never had one fail so far. I have several very affordable 4-12 X 40mm from Hammers. I did have one failure, but no problems with any of the others. Decent glass, but the reticle is a little on the thick side. The Hawke scopes are noticeably clearer and more precise. Thanks for watching
If I had to choose a Best All Around scope for Springers, the Hawke Airmax line is on the TOP of the list ! Worth Every Penny and Outstanding Customer Service !!! 😃👍
In my opinion the Hawke Vantage IR AO scopes are every bit as rugged as the Airmax line, due to the etched glass reticles. Both the 2-7×32mm and 3-9×40mm have particularly useful airgun distance markings similar to the old Beeman Blue Ribbon scopes. 😃👍
Forgive me if this appears twice. I answered your question, but it seems to have gotten lost somewhere in cyberspace. Anyway, as I was saying, as long as you've got enough power to push a .22 caliber pellet, then that's what I'd recommend. That being said, there are plenty of folks who do just fine with .177 caliber rifles shooting below 12 ft lbs, so to them, I'm sure that my opinion means squat. 🤣
@@marcmyers1465 max 50yards…i have HW35e in 177 but I would like to buy a diana 34 classic so I can decide between 177 and 22...my brother and I have a farm and we have a very big problem with rats...hw35e in 177 caliber copes well with pests but I thought I would try diana in caliber 22
I have a Tracker that I replaced the piston seal on. I didn't get it on video, but searching UA-cam for a disassembly / reassembly video on the Tracker or its cousin, the Osprey, and I came up empty. Maybe it's time to do a tutorial... 🤔
Okay here goes... 1) remove sights (telescopic if fitted) 2) remove stock 3) release sidelever using usual plunger but do NOT cock the rifle 4) remove the 'c' clip from the s/lever pivot pin, remove pin, s/lever and spring- note which way the spring goes for later reassembly 5) remove trigger adjustment grub screw and spring 6) looking down the end plug (where the s/lever would be) you will see a grubscrew in a recess- slacken this, no need to remove. 7) now stand the rifle upright on a hard surface on a cloth to stop it slipping. Grip the rifle securely (best place is where the barrel meets the cylinder) push down and at the same time push out the end plug retaining pin with a drift. Release the downward pressure on the rifle and the end plug will come out followed by the spring. There isn't much tension on the standard spring so all this is quite easy. IF you suspect that the std spring may have been replaced then for safety's sake use a spring compressor or get someone to help you push against the spring. 8) if you only want to replace the spring this is as far as you need to go. 9) to remove the piston first remove the 3 pins that go through the trigger block (remove their 'c' clips 1st). Then carefully remove the trigger, sear and safety slide, note their is also a spring and take careful note of each components position. 10) the piston can now be removed- remember to depress the anti beartrap lever or it won't come out. That's all I got... 🤷🏼♂️
Another great episode of this series! Thank you for all your hard work and effort to make these videos for our pleasure. It’s truly a labor of love. As much as I enjoy working the wood, my absolute favorite part is when you get to see the wood pop with life and beauty as the finishing process starts.
Thank you again for sharing your videos.
Roy
Auburn, WA.
Thanks again, Roy. Much appreciated, my friend.
Ahhh nice to see you Kevin! Have missed you, pleased your back and well
Thanks, David. Much appreciated.
I came across your channel by chance, such a pleasant atmosphere.
Thanks very much, my friend. Please consider subscribing.
Fantastic job 👍
Thanks very much, my friend.
A lot of love going in that stock ! 😎👍🏻
You know what they say, Peter. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right.
Thanks as always, my friend.
@@razor1962 you right about that my friend.
Good video
Thanks very much.
Quedó MUY bien!! Saludos desde España
Thank you. Francisco, and thanks for watching, my friend.
Superb work Kevin!
Thanks, Paul. Much appreciated, my friend.
Holy S that looks good. Wish I did my stock like this, I didnt know. I used varnish with some wood staining agent
Thanks very much, my friend. This technique doesn't lend itself to a stock that has been stained. You'll see why in the next video in this series.
Happy to have you back Kevin
Thanks so much, my friend.
Great work
Thanks, Paul, and thanks for watching, my friend.
Great Vid, that's going to be a lovely stock. Keep up the good work...😉
Thanks, Steve.
That`s going to be very nice!
Thanks, David. Much appreciated.
Great video Kevin, l need to refinish a couple of my springers, and will certainly follow your system!
Martin. (UK).
(ps. l want your jacket)!
Thanks, Martin. Just remember, this method doesn't lend itself well to stocks that have been stained. You'll see why in the next video in this series.
The jacket was a Christmas gift from Mrs Pellets and Pistons. 😊
Thanks for watching, my friend.
When working with older tinted finishes, on Beech stocks, you may actually have to sand and bleach the stock w/ oxalic acid, such as Savogran wood bleach. Otherwise it can end up patchy and spotted like an old cur dog... 😝
(Pretty much only applies to "Beech" stocks)
The bleach with remove the spots quicker than sanding. Too much sanding and you end up reshaping your stock ! 🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️
muy bueno kevin ,saludos desde Granada ( españa)
Thank you so very much, my friend.
Working on a nice piece of wood is so satisfying. Nice job Kevin, looking forward to the end result.
It is indeed, my friend. There's a real sense of satisfaction that comes from taking on a project like this build. Once finished, it becomes an everlasting source of satisfaction that generations can enjoy.
Good stuff.
Thanks for watching, my friend.
The grain is looking real beautiful and jumping out at you.
Your doing a fantastic job.
And we'll done to Mark, being a lefty myself the cheek peace is just stunning 😍
Thanks very much, my friend. I'm anticipating a really nice-looking rifle.
The stock is a Commemorative Air Arms Pro Elite pattern made by Jim Maccari @ Air Rifle Headquarters back in the day when he still sold D.I.Y. stocks. One of his finest patterns too in my opinion.
😉👍
This video makes me want to refinish the stock on the mod 45.
There ya' go, my friend. Just remember, if you decide to stain the stock, you won't be able to apply this technique. The 45's stock is most likely beech. Beech is pretty plain and benefits greatly by adding a little color. You could use this technique and leave the wood natural. You'd end up with a straw blonde colored stock.
Thanks as always for your viewership, Iwan.
Good advice, thank you.
See my later post to Point221b in regards to refinishing Beech. The oxalic acid wood bleach is a game changer for refinishing old Beech stocks. 😉👍
@marcmyers1465 thank you for the advice
😍❤great job Kevin
Thanks, John. You just reminded me that I owe you a phone call. I'd forgotten all about it. I'll be in touch, my friend.
Nice Kevin 😁 👍
Thank you, Ron
Hi Kevin, I never thought watching a guy sand a pice of wood would be so intresting.....😅 that stock looks georgious it will be fantastic when it's done. I'm no woodworking expert but as well as using sandpaper I also found using 0000 grit steel wool gives a silky smooth finish on timber. Anyway great video as always can't wait to see the finished product. Happy St. Patrick's day next weekend from Ireland ☘
You're right, Graham. 0000 steel wool is a good way to buff between coats. I stopped using it because it'll often leave small strands behind that, if not discovered, end up being coated over.
Happy St. Patrick's Day to as well, my friend.
RE: 0000 Steel Wool.
A few thoughts. 🤔
1st. and foremost steel wool is shipped oiled to prevent "Rust" 😉 So it's best to rinse it in a Mason Jar of lacquer thinner to remove the oil. (Might take two applications) Then let it dry thoroughly.
2nd. While steel wool is excellent for polishing out surface coatings like acrylics and lacquers, when working with incorporated oil finishes the strands can easily immbed in the grain of the wood, and mix with the oil itself darkening the finish and dulling the refraction of your brilliant, shiny new oil.
Steel wool is cut and spun into pads in a linear fashion making it cut in, bind and tear off into the grain of the wood.
The newer polyester 3M type abrasive pads are woven homogenously and don't tend to shed. They are specifically designed not to. This was the greater point to woven materials. 😊
Slàinte, Graham 🥃... 🍺😉 🏴🇮🇪 from the Irish Quarters, Marc
@@marcmyers1465 thanks Marc, Intresting points you have raised, never thought of the oil to stop the steel wool rusting, its bound to tarnish the wood some what. Are the Polyester pads similar to scotch bright...??
@@grahambamford9073Yes, basically Scotch Brite. From course to find is Green, Red, Grey, and White. Red is the most useful for oil finishes, and for airgun internal work as well. 😉👍
The Classic London Oil finish is applied to "WALNUT" garnet sanded to 180 then oiled w/ Raw linseed oil and sanded to fill at 220. And "Then" you start applying your finish a little at a time and stretch it thin with the heal of you palm to cover the stock, bit by bit until fully covered. Then you let it dry 2 to 3 hours and start all over with a second coat.
Let it sit for 72 hours and start again, for as many coats as you can stand ! 😆
And yes y'er hand is gonna heat up, hopefully the swelling blisters will settle down over the next 72 hours. 😖
That's your "Classic" historical Royal London Oil finish. It tends to impart a deep chestnut brown tint.
Tru-Oil has dryers and imparts a clearer, brighter, golden tone.
Raw "unboiled" linseed oil is actually kinda pea green and that produces the darker brown tone. It also darkens with age, but it also tends to be softer than dry oils. 😕
The best part of oil finishes is they're easily mended with a light buffing and another coat of oil, and tend to last a lifetime! 😃👍
Tru-Oil on Beech tends to produce a honey gold sheen like classic Danish oil, but the oil can be tinted with a few drops of asphaltum (plain old roofing pitch) 😉
To produce browner tones to suit you, but again, remember it Will darken with age. 🤷🏼♂️
@@marcmyers1465 very intresting sounds like you have a lot of experience in this, thanks for the full break down. Slàn go foil Marc.👍
Thumbs up!!
Thanks, Charles.
It would be a great video to see gun blueing 👍
One of these days, my friend....
Hey! I recently discovered your channel and wanted to give you some kudos for your laid-back, no-nonsense, and genuinely cool videos. Keep up the great work!
Thanks so much, my friend. It's feedback like yours that makes it worthwhile.
Nice information on stock work 👍 and has you proved, it's not a five minute job , passience is required and double checking thriught the process , I also found this out a number of years ago my friend , cheers
@@neiledwards8931 It certainly does require patience. It's sitting quietly and safely in a padded case awaiting the checkering that I'll be doing this winter. Stay tuned.
I could watch your work for hours ,love the relaxed energy, I've got a cheap air that was my dad's ,its got a plastic stock and the camo coating on it that's gone sticky, not a lot on the interweb about how to remove it ,but I did see someone say 95% alcohol and wire wool ,it's taking ages to come off ,was going to try paint striper but I am worried about damaging the plastic stock ,,I picked up my HW97K last week ,only put a few pellets through it as I've not got a sight yet ,I've ordered a spring sleeve to see if that will help reduce the twang 😊, I will do a full degrease and apply molly grease and tidy up any machine flaws and polish the end the spring, I won't touch the trigger as that is so sweet out of the box 😊
I'm not sure what to recommend for removing that camo coating. I'll bet that the spray on bed liner finish would cover it and look quite nice.
Congratulations on the 97. It's a wonderful rifle. I wish you much enjoyment from it. Best of luck with the tune.
Thanks for watching, my friend.
@@razor1962 sounds a plan 👍👍
Back in the early 2000's many economy rifles and scopes used soft vulcanized paints for traction and a trendy military look. Unfortunately these finishes would degrade similar to dry rot. Made worse by the use of any petroleum based cleaners and preservatives.
These can be removed with 95% alc. or mineral spirits, and preferably either the White or Red 3M abrasive pads. 😉 All you can really do is try a small test patch in the most discreet place, and see how it effects any plastics ? 🤷🏼♂️ Manufacturers used many, Many different types of plastics, and if that plastic is styrene based, mineral spirits CAN very well dissolve the plastic, and a more aggressive abrasive will just turn it into a gooey plastic slurry... 🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️ HTH. Prof M 🤓
By all means DO make sure to finish/seal the inletting, and fastening points. This will prevent any shrinkage, and warping as the stock ages. Critical for Maple and Black Cherry, still necessary for Walnut, not quite as critical for Industrial Steamed Beech, but I still do it anyway as you never know whether the stock will ultimately end up in a high humidity environment. Just make sure to blot up any excess oil. 😉
Looking forward to the grain filling sequence ! 😀👍
Way ahead of ya' this time, Marc. I'll be brushing a liberal amount of oil into the hidden areas before I begin the final, finish building process.
Thanks as always, my friend. Your input is invaluable.
hello Kevin!
Hey there, buddy!!
Oh, Hi Mr Walnut. I follow you after Kevin's recommendation!
What scopes do you put on your springers and if you had any problems with them thank you
I use Hawke Airmax scopes a lot. Never had one fail so far. I have several very affordable 4-12 X 40mm from Hammers. I did have one failure, but no problems with any of the others. Decent glass, but the reticle is a little on the thick side.
The Hawke scopes are noticeably clearer and more precise.
Thanks for watching
If I had to choose a Best All Around scope for Springers, the Hawke Airmax line is on the TOP of the list ! Worth Every Penny and Outstanding Customer Service !!! 😃👍
In my opinion the Hawke Vantage IR AO scopes are every bit as rugged as the Airmax line, due to the etched glass reticles. Both the 2-7×32mm and 3-9×40mm have particularly useful airgun distance markings similar to the old Beeman Blue Ribbon scopes. 😃👍
My friend i have a question? For pest birds and rats 177 or 22?
Forgive me if this appears twice. I answered your question, but it seems to have gotten lost somewhere in cyberspace.
Anyway, as I was saying, as long as you've got enough power to push a .22 caliber pellet, then that's what I'd recommend.
That being said, there are plenty of folks who do just fine with .177 caliber rifles shooting below 12 ft lbs, so to them, I'm sure that my opinion means squat. 🤣
@@razor1962 thanks a lot sorry if i'm boring with my questions
Not at all, my friend. I'm glad to be of help.
At what range, Nikola ??? 🤔
That may be the most influential factor for these purposes... 😉
@@marcmyers1465 max 50yards…i have HW35e in 177 but I would like to buy a diana 34 classic so I can decide between 177 and 22...my brother and I have a farm and we have a very big problem with rats...hw35e in 177 caliber copes well with pests but I thought I would try diana in caliber 22
Hi ste hear from uk have you eny info on changing piston seal on webley tracker like how to take trigger apart to remove piston cheers
Sorry UA-cam removed the link. I tried... 🤷🏼♂️
I have a Tracker that I replaced the piston seal on. I didn't get it on video, but searching UA-cam for a disassembly / reassembly video on the Tracker or its cousin, the Osprey, and I came up empty. Maybe it's time to do a tutorial... 🤔
Okay here goes...
1) remove sights (telescopic if fitted)
2) remove stock
3) release sidelever using usual plunger but do NOT cock the rifle
4) remove the 'c' clip from the s/lever pivot pin, remove pin, s/lever and spring- note which way the spring goes for later reassembly
5) remove trigger adjustment grub screw and spring
6) looking down the end plug (where the s/lever would be) you will see a grubscrew in a recess- slacken this, no need to remove.
7) now stand the rifle upright on a hard surface on a cloth to stop it slipping. Grip the rifle securely (best place is where the barrel meets the cylinder) push down and at the same time push out the end plug retaining pin with a drift. Release the downward pressure on the rifle and the end plug will come out followed by the spring. There isn't much tension on the standard spring so all this is quite easy. IF you suspect that the std spring may have been replaced then for safety's sake use a spring compressor or get someone to help you push against the spring.
8) if you only want to replace the spring this is as far as you need to go.
9) to remove the piston first remove the 3 pins that go through the trigger block (remove their 'c' clips 1st). Then carefully remove the trigger, sear and safety slide, note their is also a spring and take careful note of each components position.
10) the piston can now be removed- remember to depress the anti beartrap lever or it won't come out.
That's all I got... 🤷🏼♂️
Thank you for your reply great info 👍
@razor1962 be great if someone could do a strip dwn and reassembly vid on UA-cam
Wear a hat to stay warm.
Thanks, Mom! 😊
My wife says that I look terrible in hats. 🤣
Special thanks to Mark🤬🤬🤬
There seems to be a recurring theme here, Paul...😊
Hahahaha