I just went out and shot my first Milky Way photo after seeing this. The cheat sheet for the 8-16 was a great help. Thanks for the great info!!! Now, I have to edit.
This is by far the most accurate and fun channel regarding lens reviews and I really hope you review the whole X line of lenses and not just the wide ones.
My wedding season is a few months away from starting. The goal is to start reviewing far more of those lenses when I can spend a whole working with them on a job etc. So it'll be a little while yet but yes those videos will be on the way eventually. Cheers for the support!!
Alrighty then... Thanks for this series of videos. They came at the perfect time for me in my starting out phase. Now I need some clear, non-smokey nights.
Just found your channel a few days ago after searching for any resources on optimum settings for Fuji lenses for astro photography. Oh boy, it feels like I found the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow!!! Absolutely brilliant stuff - thanks so much for all the research and information and for providing the cheat sheets - I'd happily pay a Patreon subscription or something for great content like that. Would love to see your thoughts on best settings for tracked/stacked if you ever have time. Thanks again mate, keep up the great work and stay safe!
Cheers Nick I really appreciate the support, I don't currently offer a patreon but I do have prints for sale on my website with more added and changed most months if any ever strike your eye. All the best mate and happy to help.
I was shooting at Spruce Knob (Bortle 2 site) in July. I wanted to see what the worse the X-T3 could do, so with the XF18-55mm lens at 18mm, f2.8 and 13 seconds, I cranked the ISO all the way up to 25600. The results were surprisingly good. Yes, there is noticeable noise, but still not nearly as bad as I was expecting.
Really enjoying your videos. Some great stuff here. One question: I think you imply that the total MP of the sensor has a relevance to the behaviour of the optimum settings as per your lens cheat sheet. With the new , series Fujis boasting 40mp sensors what is the implication for these incredibly helpful charts?
It means if you’re very picky you’ll want to use an ever faster shutter speed the higher you’re MP count. And exact amount I haven’t worked out, but from a guess you would work it out using the %percentage difference in MP to what %percentage the shutter speed should change on my charts…if that makes sense
@@ThomasBusbyPhotography Very cool. I also recognise that the higher MP count has its own issues on a smaller sensor...which makes it all even more confusing. Regardless, your videos and tutorials are very inspirational and informative. Great stuff. NZ is my family's homeland (Otago) and I try to venture your beautiful south every year. So special.
thanks for all the hard work there thomas, the nights are getting darker now in the uk so these cheat sheets are really handy, look forward to the editing video!!
@@ThomasBusbyPhotography i managed one shot of the milkyway this year bad timing between time of work and bad weather,thomas i shoot the xt2 and have toyed with the idea of the xt4 and im wondering is the newer sensor better for the nights sky?
I've got an x-t30 with the 15-45mm kit lense and I'm wondering if I'd be able to capture anything with this? I know this is an older video but the information is still very relevant and I'm glad I stumbled onto you channel. Subbed
As long as you point at the right part of the nights sky and spend a bit of time learning how to edit you’ll get great shots with that combo. To start with don’t worry to much about the landscape, just find a dark bit of the country and learn where the galactic core is
Hi Thomas, thank you for your excellent work. I have a question: I own an XT5 and usually use the 16-55mm lens. I am struggling with focusing and get sharp stars. Any thoughts on how to focus on the stars? Thanks
I would do a little trial and error testing. Set up a shot of stars. Get focus as close as you can but if you’re unsure make sure the focus ring is a little to far in one direction. Then take a series of photos rotating the focus ring just a smidge in the right direction for each photo until you’re sure you’ve gone to far. Then check all these photos on your computer closely. What this will do is you’re hoping for one perfect shot. If you don’t have one then either your settings are off or your lens isn’t as good as you want it to be. Both of these things are just as likely as your focus being off. If you can get that perfect shot from that series of tests, let me know and we’ll take the next step.
Great video and I love the cheat sheets. One curiosity when I try to select the speed in seconds but I cannot precisely select the number of seconds because they move from one value to another. Any way to precisely set the speed to e.g. 17 seconds ?
Great video and thank you for all of the research. I know that is a lot of work. After watching I decided to get the 16mm f1.4 lens. Hopefully this will work for the Gemini Meteor shower this month which will be its first test. To bad you don't have a cheat sheet for the GFX 23mm lens.
From my test GFX is shocking at astro. I'm struggling to work out exactly why, I have tested a bunch of different GFX wide lenses with astro and the results are always much worse than the X series. I am assuming it's because the GFX lenses just aren't bright enough
Your channel is amazing. Heaps of knowledge, clear and concise. It's only a matter of time before you blow up! Question: I had difficulty focusing with my 16-80mm lens on my XT4. From my screen, it seemed it was just too "dark" for my lens to focus. Should I have gone manual/infinity? How did you get yours to work. Thanks in advance!
I can't remember exactly. But I might have set my shutter to 30sec. F/4 ISO 6400 and found a good bright star to look at, zoomed in on the screen (not the lens) and focused from there. Then set all my settings back to recommended without bumping the focus. Hope this makes sense / helps. And thank you very much for the kind words
Ah-ha! This is the exact information I was searching for with this stuff. I haven't looked yet. But I hope there's a video about shooting the Aurora. I realize there's other photographers that have videos. But here the plain and simple formula is understandable and explained straight to you.
Where I live maybe once a year we get a hint of them far off in the distance, but nothing to the levels of other places. What I'd do I guess is shoot it like any other star photos but reduce either the the shutter or ISO until things looks great.
Alright. The best lens I had for the job was the 35mm f1.4 wide open at 3200 about 1sec the first time. Compared to the second time where I messed around with all of that stuff. First attempt was good. If my white balance was right it'd have been better. The Aurora moves more than stars too.
Love your videos kindly make a video for deep sky settings for fuji x sensor camera as even using tracker my images are blowing up with large color diffusion.
This is gold. I am curious if you are planning or have advice on recommended settings for people who would choose to stack the photos? I know that might be a huge undertaking of testing , but if you had that info I think it would make for a great video topic. Again amazing content, I can tell how much you enjoy this :)
I will once I feel I am more confident than most in it. I will start working on that soon though but the video will be a while away. I do have some editing videos starting soon though
@@ThomasBusbyPhotography fair enough and glad it's somewhere in the future . looking forward to the edit videos!! Again great job and thanks for sharing in such a fun way 👍
Great video Tom at a blistering pace! I’m watching it twice mate, the cheat sheets are great I’ve already used your 11mm focal length tip for my XF10-24 👍
I would love to hear your views on viltrox lenses! As a beginner in fuji for me they're quite tempting for their price and quality! Love your astro tips it's really great for a beginner 😊
Viltrox makes great lenses. You can shoot some lovely astrophotography with a decent wide lens. And since we need manual focus anyway, those lenses are great. My only concern would be that they don't have anything super wide, and since fuji is aps-c, sub 20mm lenses can be useful. So the only viltrox lens I would buy would for astro would be the 20mm 1.8.
My question: have you try to take pictures with a Fuji X100V ? I do have a XT1 and I have X100V i try couple days ago but I think the 23mm lens isn’t wide enough, appreciated your input? PS, I like your videos been older the speed of you description is hard to follow. Sorry not insult intended.
I understand we about 23mm not being wide enough. It’s absolutely a personal thing, but I love a full frame equivalent of 24mm, so a 16mm ok Fuji. The wide angle adapter can help you get there but adds a bit of bulk to the kit. And yes my newer videos are much slower as I didn’t have a good system in place for getting content across for the older videos
Overwhelming amount of content but it's better than nothing. I'd like to know if you will ever review the Viltrox 13mn 1.4 and the Sigma 16mm 1.4 for astro/all purpose wide angle lense. Thanks for all the videos you released, happy accident and glad I land here
Same, I've recerntly bought the Viltrox 13mm 1.4 for Xt4 and xt20. I've had a go at astro with it, and i reckon it is markedly superior to the Rokinon 12mm.
Nice video. Just one question. In your opinion to make a panoramic milky way photo is better to use a wide lens with few images (16mm) or can be nice to use the 35 1.4 with more scenes?
It depends on if you are using a tracker or not. Without a tracker it is better to go wide as a longer shutter speed can be used for less noise. With a tracker the 35mm .mght be great but I haven't tested it to know for sure
Hey, this is a proabably a dumb question as I'm a beginner when it comes to astro photography... can I use a CPL? Or is it best to use no filter at all (ND or CPL)?
Both of those filters reduce light coming into your camera, and as we are trying to get in as much light as possible for most Astro shots you are always Bette off to use no filter
Hello, I sold my Samyang 12mm manual and I hesitated a lot for the new 12mm AF and the Viltrox 13MM 1.4 which has very good reviews. Have you already had the opportunity to try the Vitrox 13mm Milky Way please? My purchase is intended only for this use where my old Samyang did not do too badly. Thank you so much.
Wow! so grateful for all you share, do you have a patreon account for contributions to your content?new to manual photography i saved 5 yrs & just bought xt5 + the beautiful 50-140 lens as i shoot sports a lot. I am trying it for night sky images. so many options on the camera to test. i an finding iso 2500 & 1/2000 shutter at f2.8 gives me clear moon & jupiter/moons shots. But keen to try long exposure milky way shots. i only have the one lens at the moment. I have a tripod but its a but too unstable for me to hold shutter on bulb. is there a remote for bulb mode with this camera?! so excited to read all your website info. Thank you again, Sarah
Thank you very kindly for nice words, if you set your shutter speed to T you will be able to dial in a great long exposure for while on a tripod, and just set your self timer to 2 or 10secs so your hands are well clear and any shake has stopped. I don’t have a patreon but you can show support through UA-cam by clicking the super thanks button (it looks like a heart with a $ symbol inside it) If you have any other questions please sing out
@@ThomasBusbyPhotography Thank you so much, I will try it out tonight if the skies clear. I have to say fujifilm seems a very forgiving camera system. Does its best to produce an image for me! I save my beginner efforts at @xt5_studio. Thank you once again & I will certainly contribute towards your content making. How lucky are we that you share your knowledge.
It can be done but I think it will be very hard to do if you're starting out unfortunately. I wouldn't know which settings for it sorry as it's not longer available here in New Zealand and I recall it being very limited in what settings in can achieve
Love your videos! Thanks for sharing... You know something that would be great if you have the time to do so... We could send you some of our pictures so you could tel us what we are doing wrong... What you think? Thanks bro! keep up with the great work!
great video -just wondering about screen settings , although my shots were good first time round -is there any way I can boost screen brightness for a time so I can better see composition of what Im shooting in the dark -I have an xt4
Nothing I’d recommend from screen settings, if you use a bright enough lens I compose at f/1.4 as I can see the stars, and then darken my aperture to suit best settings once composed. Another trick is to really turn up your ISO for when composing and then turn it back down to a usable amount when composed
@@ThomasBusbyPhotography On Sunday was shooting at Piha with others one had a Panasonic SH5 it had the ability to boost screen lightness I know there's a boost on the fuji but sounds like not for screen. We were shooting hi ISO with a view to do panoramas and stacking to equalise grain.so had no room on ISO. BTW awesome video series you are doing - you mentioned wanting to go full time -is doing workshops an option? I was full time photography for many years. I found I wasn't doing what I loved in regards to photography.
What option do you have set for when previewing exposure? And in two weeks time I will be a full time photographer / UA-cam as I’ve just been given a exciting new job (I’ll make a video about that one day soon)
@@ThomasBusbyPhotography Thats great news Thomas. Being paid to do what you like doing -living the dream. I loved taking the photos but initially I was a one man band and the books etc became onerous ,eventually I had 6 people working for me -lot of mouths to feed. I have the rgb histogram % the opening screen is bare with exposure data down the bottom.
This is mostly for preview purposes, but any change to a raw file is destructive, change wb balance to a raw file is maybe the least destructive change you can do, the closer you get it to how you’d like it, the less you need to change it the very slightly higher picture quality you’ll get in the end.
Nice video and good information! I was hoping you were going to tackle also the ISO invariance of the sensor. Basically, the internet says that the sensor is ISO invariant starting with ISO800, which means you can actually shoot at ISO800 and push in post procesing and have a similar amount of noise as if using that ISO in camera but with better dynamic range.
I actually did a ton of practice and research on that. But my results did not aline with it being as invariant as the internet says. Maybe the xt2/3 sensors are more so. I also didn't find any change in DR over ISO 800 and a drop in DR under 800 because of Fujis imported DR ISO options. I need to do more testing on this but to me it didn't quite seem as clear cut as most articles I have read would make it seem.
@@ThomasBusbyPhotography I agree with much of what you say but not with your ISO noise test. Why are you decreasing the amount of light hitting the sensor as you increase the ISO? That doesn't happen when shooting the Milky Way; when shooting the Milky Way, the amount of light from the source doesn't change. By deceasing the amount of light (as you did) for every increase in ISO, you are changing the amount of light gathered by the sensor thus creating more noise. I did my own test using the 16mm @ f/2.0, 15 sec. and then taking a series of 4 images from ISO 800 to ISO 6400. Then in Light Room, I adjusted the exposures to match the ISO 6400 shot ( ie I pushed the ISO 800 exposure +3, ISO 1600 exposure +2 and the ISO 3200 exposure +1) and then evaluated the noise. I virtually didn't see and difference in noise levels up to ISO 3200... Personally I'd rather shoot at lower ISO's and then increase exposure in LR as needed than shoot at higher ISO's and risk baking in blown out stars and colours. I'm not an expert, but this is my logic and what I found.
I had to change the light in the room because of how signal to noise ratio works. But the end result of my test agrees with you. I didn't say shoot higher ISO, I just showed the ISO results. Which agrees with what you say that lower is better. And if you are trying to shoot astro with say a f/4 lens, ISO 1600 might be far to dark and ISO 3200 or 6400 etc might be required.
Great video here Thomas! Plenty of information to use. But please, do us a favor.....Slow down :D content is top notch but your pace is waaaay to quick mate! Slowing it down would be much more enjoyable to watch :) Greetings from France!
Haha cheers mate, I get pretty excited and passionate about it all and try not to make the video drag, I was just thinking afterwards that I did smash all that out VERY quickly. So will make more of a effort to get it out slower next time.
Hi Thomas! First of all thanks for all your great work! Just a quick question though. I was referring to your cheat sheet and how come for samyang 12mm one cheat sheet says 14 sec exposure and the other one as 28 sec? Is it depending on milkyway vs general astro?
So useful, yet,try to think you are speaking to the world and not to your palls in the same neighborhood... so vocalize more and slow down a drop, so we can understand your pills of wisdom. We need them so it's sad to miss them due to fast pronounciation. Great stuff though! Thanks a lot
Yeah this videos pretty old now and I was really struggling to remember everything and get it out, you’ll find my newer content is far more coherent, for all. Appreciate the feedback all the same, though, and hope it helped
Your presentation style is far too rushed - breathe man and breathe more often! A lot of information passed very quickly but the video is none the less very informative. Here's something to considier, as a Fuji user does the film simulation matter for astrophotography? I think that it does. Standard seems to have more suppressed shadows than say Pro Neg Standard. If true that could effect the exposure time.
I just went out and shot my first Milky Way photo after seeing this. The cheat sheet for the 8-16 was a great help. Thanks for the great info!!! Now, I have to edit.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing
This is by far the most accurate and fun channel regarding lens reviews and I really hope you review the whole X line of lenses and not just the wide ones.
My wedding season is a few months away from starting.
The goal is to start reviewing far more of those lenses when I can spend a whole working with them on a job etc.
So it'll be a little while yet but yes those videos will be on the way eventually.
Cheers for the support!!
@@ThomasBusbyPhotography great news man cheers!
Alrighty then... Thanks for this series of videos. They came at the perfect time for me in my starting out phase. Now I need some clear, non-smokey nights.
You're welcome man, best of luck
Hi nice video. It will be nice an Up date on tx-5 for milkyway landscape photography. Thanks in advance
Just found your channel a few days ago after searching for any resources on optimum settings for Fuji lenses for astro photography. Oh boy, it feels like I found the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow!!! Absolutely brilliant stuff - thanks so much for all the research and information and for providing the cheat sheets - I'd happily pay a Patreon subscription or something for great content like that. Would love to see your thoughts on best settings for tracked/stacked if you ever have time.
Thanks again mate, keep up the great work and stay safe!
Cheers Nick I really appreciate the support, I don't currently offer a patreon but I do have prints for sale on my website with more added and changed most months if any ever strike your eye.
All the best mate and happy to help.
@@ThomasBusbyPhotography Ah cool, I'll take a look at those for sure 👍
You deserve more support bruh❤️🙏👾
Thank you, I agree hahah
Fantastic info and love the detail; Thanks for the share and the cheat sheets are gold! Cheers.
Thank you!
Great video as always. I greatly appreciate your fresh take on videos and Fujifilm. Thank you.
You're welcome mate, I greatly appreciate you taking the time to comment, thank you
Amazing, especially loving the cheat sheets! Thank you so much !
The value you leave here bro is awesome!
Chur bro
I was shooting at Spruce Knob (Bortle 2 site) in July. I wanted to see what the worse the X-T3 could do, so with the XF18-55mm lens at 18mm, f2.8 and 13 seconds, I cranked the ISO all the way up to 25600. The results were surprisingly good. Yes, there is noticeable noise, but still not nearly as bad as I was expecting.
Fuji punches well above it's weight for ISO performance.
Really enjoying your videos. Some great stuff here. One question: I think you imply that the total MP of the sensor has a relevance to the behaviour of the optimum settings as per your lens cheat sheet. With the new , series Fujis boasting 40mp sensors what is the implication for these incredibly helpful charts?
It means if you’re very picky you’ll want to use an ever faster shutter speed the higher you’re MP count.
And exact amount I haven’t worked out, but from a guess you would work it out using the %percentage difference in MP to what %percentage the shutter speed should change on my charts…if that makes sense
@@ThomasBusbyPhotography Very cool. I also recognise that the higher MP count has its own issues on a smaller sensor...which makes it all even more confusing. Regardless, your videos and tutorials are very inspirational and informative. Great stuff. NZ is my family's homeland (Otago) and I try to venture your beautiful south every year. So special.
Yeah it’s a stunning country and all the best with your photos
thanks for all the hard work there thomas, the nights are getting darker now in the uk so these cheat sheets are really handy, look forward to the editing video!!
Only a few good months of Astro left here in NZ, I really hope we good some good clear new moon skies soon
@@ThomasBusbyPhotography i managed one shot of the milkyway this year bad timing between time of work and bad weather,thomas i shoot the xt2 and have toyed with the idea of the xt4 and im wondering is the newer sensor better for the nights sky?
For just astro photography no I wouldn't upgrade.
A good lens makes a far bigger difference than a new body
I've got an x-t30 with the 15-45mm kit lense and I'm wondering if I'd be able to capture anything with this? I know this is an older video but the information is still very relevant and I'm glad I stumbled onto you channel.
Subbed
As long as you point at the right part of the nights sky and spend a bit of time learning how to edit you’ll get great shots with that combo.
To start with don’t worry to much about the landscape, just find a dark bit of the country and learn where the galactic core is
always the best content. keep it up man!
Cheers buddy
Hi Thomas, thank you for your excellent work. I have a question: I own an XT5 and usually use the 16-55mm lens. I am struggling with focusing and get sharp stars. Any thoughts on how to focus on the stars? Thanks
I would do a little trial and error testing.
Set up a shot of stars.
Get focus as close as you can but if you’re unsure make sure the focus ring is a little to far in one direction.
Then take a series of photos rotating the focus ring just a smidge in the right direction for each photo until you’re sure you’ve gone to far.
Then check all these photos on your computer closely.
What this will do is you’re hoping for one perfect shot.
If you don’t have one then either your settings are off or your lens isn’t as good as you want it to be.
Both of these things are just as likely as your focus being off.
If you can get that perfect shot from that series of tests, let me know and we’ll take the next step.
@@ThomasBusbyPhotography Thank you - I will try this the next time
Great video and I love the cheat sheets. One curiosity when I try to select the speed in seconds but I cannot precisely select the number of seconds because they move from one value to another. Any way to precisely set the speed to e.g. 17 seconds ?
Using bulb, the app, a remote shutter…I also feel like there is a 4th way that I have forgotten
Great video and thank you for all of the research. I know that is a lot of work. After watching I decided to get the 16mm f1.4 lens. Hopefully this will work for the Gemini Meteor shower this month which will be its first test. To bad you don't have a cheat sheet for the GFX 23mm lens.
From my test GFX is shocking at astro.
I'm struggling to work out exactly why, I have tested a bunch of different GFX wide lenses with astro and the results are always much worse than the X series.
I am assuming it's because the GFX lenses just aren't bright enough
@@ThomasBusbyPhotography Thanks for the heads up. I'm glad i'll be bring both the X-T4 and GFX50R with me. We'll see what kind of results I get.
Great stuff man! Super detailed. Thank you.
Thank you!
Excellent content. Do you have a cheat sheet for the XF 33mm f1.4?
Can’t wait for when you get round to evaluating the New 18mm F1.4 🤠
Me to, it'll be getting compared pretty heavily to the 16mm 1.4
Thanks for the video. I'm searching the sidebar and videos for similar videos coveirng deep sky astrophotography.
I personally don’t have any deep sky videos sorry
Your channel is amazing. Heaps of knowledge, clear and concise. It's only a matter of time before you blow up!
Question: I had difficulty focusing with my 16-80mm lens on my XT4. From my screen, it seemed it was just too "dark" for my lens to focus. Should I have gone manual/infinity? How did you get yours to work. Thanks in advance!
I can't remember exactly.
But I might have set my shutter to 30sec.
F/4
ISO 6400
and found a good bright star to look at, zoomed in on the screen (not the lens) and focused from there.
Then set all my settings back to recommended without bumping the focus.
Hope this makes sense / helps.
And thank you very much for the kind words
how to setup my ISO NR settings? 0 or maybe for less digital noise reduction like -4 ? or does it affect jpegs only?
Correct it effects jpeg only.
Ah-ha! This is the exact information I was searching for with this stuff. I haven't looked yet. But I hope there's a video about shooting the Aurora. I realize there's other photographers that have videos. But here the plain and simple formula is understandable and explained straight to you.
Unfortunately I haven't had the chance to shoot one yet sorry,but thank you kindly for the support
This is my first year actually seeing and shooting them. Fortunately, I live in a place to get many chances even though the season will be done soon.
Where I live maybe once a year we get a hint of them far off in the distance, but nothing to the levels of other places.
What I'd do I guess is shoot it like any other star photos but reduce either the the shutter or ISO until things looks great.
Alright. The best lens I had for the job was the 35mm f1.4 wide open at 3200 about 1sec the first time. Compared to the second time where I messed around with all of that stuff. First attempt was good. If my white balance was right it'd have been better. The Aurora moves more than stars too.
Did you shoot RAW or JPEG? WB really shouldn't matter much with RAW
Love your videos kindly make a video for deep sky settings for fuji x sensor camera as even using tracker my images are blowing up with large color diffusion.
This is gold. I am curious if you are planning or have advice on recommended settings for people who would choose to stack the photos? I know that might be a huge undertaking of testing , but if you had that info I think it would make for a great video topic. Again amazing content, I can tell how much you enjoy this :)
I will once I feel I am more confident than most in it.
I will start working on that soon though but the video will be a while away.
I do have some editing videos starting soon though
@@ThomasBusbyPhotography fair enough and glad it's somewhere in the future . looking forward to the edit videos!! Again great job and thanks for sharing in such a fun way 👍
Thank you! I honestly really appreciate it
Great video Tom at a blistering pace! I’m watching it twice mate, the cheat sheets are great I’ve already used your 11mm focal length tip for my XF10-24 👍
Haha cheers mate, and yes didn't slow down for this one.
I would love to hear your views on viltrox lenses! As a beginner in fuji for me they're quite tempting for their price and quality! Love your astro tips it's really great for a beginner 😊
Unfortunately I don't have a way of getting holding of them sorry, but thank you very kindly for the support I really appreciate it
Viltrox makes great lenses. You can shoot some lovely astrophotography with a decent wide lens. And since we need manual focus anyway, those lenses are great. My only concern would be that they don't have anything super wide, and since fuji is aps-c, sub 20mm lenses can be useful. So the only viltrox lens I would buy would for astro would be the 20mm 1.8.
My question: have you try to take pictures with a Fuji X100V ? I do have a XT1 and I have X100V i try couple days ago but I think the 23mm lens isn’t wide enough, appreciated your input? PS, I like your videos been older the speed of you description is hard to follow. Sorry not insult intended.
I understand we about 23mm not being wide enough.
It’s absolutely a personal thing, but I love a full frame equivalent of 24mm, so a 16mm ok Fuji.
The wide angle adapter can help you get there but adds a bit of bulk to the kit.
And yes my newer videos are much slower as I didn’t have a good system in place for getting content across for the older videos
Thank youuuu 🙏🏼 what about Zeiss 12mm?
Excellent video! Thanks for all the info
Cheers
Overwhelming amount of content but it's better than nothing. I'd like to know if you will ever review the Viltrox 13mn 1.4 and the Sigma 16mm 1.4 for astro/all purpose wide angle lense.
Thanks for all the videos you released, happy accident and glad I land here
All I managed to get as far as third party lenses was the samyang, though with the sigma mount lenses as on the way hopefully I’ll get them
Same, I've recerntly bought the Viltrox 13mm 1.4 for Xt4 and xt20. I've had a go at astro with it, and i reckon it is markedly superior to the Rokinon 12mm.
Nice video. Just one question. In your opinion to make a panoramic milky way photo is better to use a wide lens with few images (16mm) or can be nice to use the 35 1.4 with more scenes?
It depends on if you are using a tracker or not.
Without a tracker it is better to go wide as a longer shutter speed can be used for less noise.
With a tracker the 35mm .mght be great but I haven't tested it to know for sure
Hey, this is a proabably a dumb question as I'm a beginner when it comes to astro photography... can I use a CPL? Or is it best to use no filter at all (ND or CPL)?
Both of those filters reduce light coming into your camera, and as we are trying to get in as much light as possible for most Astro shots you are always Bette off to use no filter
Hello, I sold my Samyang 12mm manual and I hesitated a lot for the new 12mm AF and the Viltrox 13MM 1.4 which has very good reviews.
Have you already had the opportunity to try the Vitrox 13mm Milky Way please? My purchase is intended only for this use where my old Samyang did not do too badly.
Thank you so much.
Super your youtube channel.... Very good information! +1 subs!
Fuji XT-2...what setting do you use for Dynamic Range? Thanks
I’m not sure dynamic range settings effect raw files so it doesn’t matter, but if you’re shooting jpeg than as high as you can
Wow! so grateful for all you share, do you have a patreon account for contributions to your content?new to manual photography i saved 5 yrs & just bought xt5 + the beautiful 50-140 lens as i shoot sports a lot. I am trying it for night sky images. so many options on the camera to test. i an finding iso 2500 & 1/2000 shutter at f2.8 gives me clear moon & jupiter/moons shots. But keen to try long exposure milky way shots. i only have the one lens at the moment. I have a tripod but its a but too unstable for me to hold shutter on bulb. is there a remote for bulb mode with this camera?! so excited to read all your website info. Thank you again, Sarah
Thank you very kindly for nice words, if you set your shutter speed to T you will be able to dial in a great long exposure for while on a tripod, and just set your self timer to 2 or 10secs so your hands are well clear and any shake has stopped.
I don’t have a patreon but you can show support through UA-cam by clicking the super thanks button (it looks like a heart with a $ symbol inside it)
If you have any other questions please sing out
@@ThomasBusbyPhotography Thank you so much, I will try it out tonight if the skies clear. I have to say fujifilm seems a very forgiving camera system. Does its best to produce an image for me! I save my beginner efforts at @xt5_studio. Thank you once again & I will certainly contribute towards your content making. How lucky are we that you share your knowledge.
I cant see the super thanks feature to click - iphone youtube app?
Im unsure sorry, I am on iPhone and can see it in the UA-cam app
Hello, im using Fujifilm Finepix HS35EXR, is this camerq applicable for astrophotography? and what settings or mode?
It can be done but I think it will be very hard to do if you're starting out unfortunately.
I wouldn't know which settings for it sorry as it's not longer available here in New Zealand and I recall it being very limited in what settings in can achieve
Love your videos! Thanks for sharing...
You know something that would be great if you have the time to do so...
We could send you some of our pictures so you could tel us what we are doing wrong...
What you think?
Thanks bro!
keep up with the great work!
I would like to do that actually, I might suggest it at the end of the next video.
Cheers
@@ThomasBusbyPhotography Would be great! I could send you some LOL
Thanks for taking your time to answer!!
All the best dude!
great video -just wondering about screen settings , although my shots were good first time round -is there any way I can boost screen brightness for a time so I can better see composition of what Im shooting in the dark -I have an xt4
Nothing I’d recommend from screen settings, if you use a bright enough lens I compose at f/1.4 as I can see the stars, and then darken my aperture to suit best settings once composed.
Another trick is to really turn up your ISO for when composing and then turn it back down to a usable amount when composed
@@ThomasBusbyPhotography On Sunday was shooting at Piha with others one had a Panasonic SH5 it had the ability to boost screen lightness I know there's a boost on the fuji but sounds like not for screen. We were shooting hi ISO with a view to do panoramas and stacking to equalise grain.so had no room on ISO.
BTW awesome video series you are doing - you mentioned wanting to go full time -is doing workshops an option? I was full time photography for many years. I found I wasn't doing what I loved in regards to photography.
What option do you have set for when previewing exposure?
And in two weeks time I will be a full time photographer / UA-cam as I’ve just been given a exciting new job (I’ll make a video about that one day soon)
@@ThomasBusbyPhotography Thats great news Thomas. Being paid to do what you like doing -living the dream. I loved taking the photos but initially I was a one man band and the books etc became onerous ,eventually I had 6 people working for me -lot of mouths to feed. I have the rgb histogram % the opening screen is bare with exposure data down the bottom.
Oh sorry I mean under the following
Menu.
Spanner.
Screen set-up.
Preview exp./EB in manual mode.
What have you got this set to?
Will my camera shoot the stars?
Fujifilm fineprix SL1000. 24mm. 50X in zoom?
I haven’t tried it but I highly doubt it sorry, very sure it is limited in what settings it can do, to archived ok results, though I might be wrong
You seem to suggest setting the camera color temperature to +4000. Will you explain your thinking behind this ? Thanks
This is mostly for preview purposes, but any change to a raw file is destructive, change wb balance to a raw file is maybe the least destructive change you can do, the closer you get it to how you’d like it, the less you need to change it the very slightly higher picture quality you’ll get in the end.
Awesome vídeo, Congrats...
Thank you!
I wonder if I could do that with a xt30 ii
Absolutely, I could do this with any changeable lens camera, it’s far far easier with the right lens though
Nice video and good information! I was hoping you were going to tackle also the ISO invariance of the sensor. Basically, the internet says that the sensor is ISO invariant starting with ISO800, which means you can actually shoot at ISO800 and push in post procesing and have a similar amount of noise as if using that ISO in camera but with better dynamic range.
I actually did a ton of practice and research on that. But my results did not aline with it being as invariant as the internet says.
Maybe the xt2/3 sensors are more so.
I also didn't find any change in DR over ISO 800 and a drop in DR under 800 because of Fujis imported DR ISO options.
I need to do more testing on this but to me it didn't quite seem as clear cut as most articles I have read would make it seem.
@@ThomasBusbyPhotography I agree with much of what you say but not with your ISO noise test. Why are you decreasing the amount of light hitting the sensor as you increase the ISO? That doesn't happen when shooting the Milky Way; when shooting the Milky Way, the amount of light from the source doesn't change. By deceasing the amount of light (as you did) for every increase in ISO, you are changing the amount of light gathered by the sensor thus creating more noise. I did my own test using the 16mm @ f/2.0, 15 sec. and then taking a series of 4 images from ISO 800 to ISO 6400. Then in Light Room, I adjusted the exposures to match the ISO 6400 shot ( ie I pushed the ISO 800 exposure +3, ISO 1600 exposure +2 and the ISO 3200 exposure +1) and then evaluated the noise. I virtually didn't see and difference in noise levels up to ISO 3200... Personally I'd rather shoot at lower ISO's and then increase exposure in LR as needed than shoot at higher ISO's and risk baking in blown out stars and colours. I'm not an expert, but this is my logic and what I found.
I had to change the light in the room because of how signal to noise ratio works.
But the end result of my test agrees with you.
I didn't say shoot higher ISO, I just showed the ISO results. Which agrees with what you say that lower is better.
And if you are trying to shoot astro with say a f/4 lens, ISO 1600 might be far to dark and ISO 3200 or 6400 etc might be required.
wow, super quicker talker, you would do well leading an auction :) good info though, nice vid
Yeah I've slowed down a lot more in newer videos.
But thank you for the support
Great video here Thomas! Plenty of information to use. But please, do us a favor.....Slow down :D content is top notch but your pace is waaaay to quick mate! Slowing it down would be much more enjoyable to watch :) Greetings from France!
Haha cheers mate, I get pretty excited and passionate about it all and try not to make the video drag, I was just thinking afterwards that I did smash all that out VERY quickly.
So will make more of a effort to get it out slower next time.
Harika video, teşekkürler.
Hi Thomas! First of all thanks for all your great work!
Just a quick question though. I was referring to your cheat sheet and how come for samyang 12mm one cheat sheet says 14 sec exposure and the other one as 28 sec? Is it depending on milkyway vs general astro?
There is a second advanced video for astro settings, to start with use the 28sec one
@@ThomasBusbyPhotography thank you for your reply! I'll watch all your astro videos and figure out the best setting :)
No worries and all the best
No shit! Your a god!
Hahaha thank you I think
Should have actual taken a clip of actually quickly setting up a the camera
nice video, but man you speak fast...i got tired trying to keep up with you haha
So useful, yet,try to think you are speaking to the world and not to your palls in the same neighborhood... so vocalize more and slow down a drop, so we can understand your pills of wisdom. We need them so it's sad to miss them due to fast pronounciation. Great stuff though! Thanks a lot
Yeah this videos pretty old now and I was really struggling to remember everything and get it out, you’ll find my newer content is far more coherent, for all.
Appreciate the feedback all the same, though, and hope it helped
Oh dude slow down. I'm a beginner.
Your presentation style is far too rushed - breathe man and breathe more often!
A lot of information passed very quickly but the video is none the less very informative.
Here's something to considier, as a Fuji user does the film simulation matter for astrophotography?
I think that it does. Standard seems to have more suppressed shadows than say Pro Neg Standard. If true that could effect the exposure time.
I only ever shoot my Astro in RAW which the film simulations have no effect
What’s you Instagram handle bud?
tb_photo_nz