dude, I already know almost all of the things you went over in this video and still watched it until the end.... I wish everyone made their videos in this manor... No BS.... straight and to the point and every single sentence had content that is usable.... I did learn a new trick too... the door knob height is brilliant.... Will start that tomorrow!!! Subscribed!!! Great work man!
Thank you very much, that's what I'm going for. I try and get to the point quickly and spend the rest of the video BS-ing about it so you only have to watch it all if I'm informative/funny haha 😂
About the vertical and horizonal lines, Capture One is pretty correct them. Sometimes if you dont have the propper space to shoot, like for example in a tiny room, you have to use different angles. And even for panorama shoots, the adaptative wide angle filter is really good for saving those shoots where lines are crazy. Good video, Jeremy.
Great video. I've experimented with hdr and flambient over the years but still end up coming back to this more time efficient type of method for almost everything, i.e. getting the shot in one frame, using multiple small strobes as necessary and letting the ambient do the heavy lifting. The only thing I do slightly differently is I usually bounce my key flash above the scene (in front of rather than behind the camera) on a small extension pole.
@@mikem6796 that's one of the trickiest parts but I usually have the windows slightly over exposed, then bring back some highlight detail in post. In backlit situations I use more flash power and stop down to prevent bloom around windows.
I found your video to be the most helpful! Such great info and examples. Best video ever where you show both video and photo, explanation to why you do it, tips, and doing bts. I hope to see you back soon. Love your video a lot!!!
Thank you so much! As long as it's helpful is all that matters to me😁 Be sure to watch my video releasing today because I'm doing my first channel giveaway contest!
100 iso may give you the absolute least amount of grain, but you will require much stronger strobes to light the room. Cracking up the ISO a little will make everything easier and the strobes you have to buy are much cheaper. If I was photographing people that may want to print or Crip into the image, I would shoot at the lowest ISO, but these images are just used for advertising on the web so it's not as necessary. Plus most modern day cameras can get to about 800ISO before the noise starts becoming noticeable
I used to think so to, but 100 iso is actually not the best Image quality. It differs on every camera. On a7iv 400 iso is the best image quality. That's what I always use on daytime. But I do HDR with no strobes. Even some indoor lights I turn off. You'll get nicer shadows and more even walls and gradients with natural light.
Could you show your process of working the photos. They certainly don't turn out like the final examples with one photo and a flash pop. Interested in what you do. Thanks
I have a binder that has a check list thats inside a plastic sheet and i use a dry erase marker to check off my shots as I do them, works good for aerial work as well. Also helps to not forget a shot.
Great information Jeremy! Question on setting your exposures. Do you set the "ambient" portion of your exposure to be "correct" for the windows or other bright areas of the scene or what criteria are you using for establishing the shutter value of your exposure (since you've already established your ISO and Aperture)? Also, when adding the flash are you typical trying to use it as a "fill light" to compliment the ambient exposure?
That is correct, I'm trying to expose for the look I want from the windows and filling in the rest of that with the strobe power. Sometimes I have to use the window pull technique, especially when dealing with long dark rooms or ones with particularly bright exteriors shining in because the images always look better with more ambient. The ratio I would hope for in these scenarios is 60-70% ambient with the strobe fill for the remainder.
Great video! I like the light tip, I accidentally missed a room last week. I was waiting for the ceiling fan to stop and shot another room and forgot to come back to shoot it. The agent wasn’t happy, but accepted a free 3D tour on their next listing. I checked out the property from the video, I thought I delivered a lot of photos, I’m glad I’m not the only one that delivers lots of photos to clients. I see photographers talking about 25-36photo packages on FB, but I don’t get limiting photos with digital, unless the MLS limits the number to 25-36. Personally I think door knob height is a little low, I use the top of the light switch plate (48”), to me that seems like a more natural viewing angle. You have other employees that shot for you, do they shoot Flambient as well or just bracketed HDR? Anyway love all the videos and information you put out.
Glad it was helpful, and if you are ever looking for a little insight in the area I know Sam who runs Network Charlotte so that could be another great connection point for you.
love the video man. Question for all RE Photographers. Why do we like to have the sick fossette on? I always do it because i see everyone else do it lol
I only do it for video. I always turn the faucet on and spin the fan as low as possible because it gives a little more movement in the frame. Sometimes those slow push-ins can look like it's done with a photo, so adding some extra movement in there makes it feel "more alive" or something like that.
Thanks man, amazing tips as always! Can you suggest me one thing please? I use a Sony a6000 and I shoot with bracketing but with this model of camera you can shoot 5 images only up to 0.7Ev difference and over 0.7 only 3 images (they limited the software…) so I shoot 3.0Ev3 instead of 2.0Ev3, but when there are very bright lights or bright windows I get very overexposed lights /windows even after merging the photos in Lrc with Lr enfuse. I even tried to drop the starting photo Ev by -1 but still the lights/windows gets too much over exposed, what can I do? Can’t really figure it out. Thanks a lot!
Without going too far into it over text, you need to start incorporating window pulls into workflow to get those perfectly exposed windows. Here is a video I did a while ago going over the process: ua-cam.com/video/i69PjxPNWUE/v-deo.html
Honestly you can't go wrong with either Godox or Flashpoint. I personally prefer Flashpoint because it is nested under Adorama brand making the repairs process much easier. But they are both the exact same insides so the two systems are interchangeable. I have a video comparing the Godox AD200(a very very popular option in RR photos) and the FP 300xplore(my personal favorite of the two) if you want a little deeper of a dive on the two lights and systems
It's actually just a bent up hanger wrapped around my tripod. You can buy a bag that does the same thing that cost about 40 bucks but I figured free was better for me lol. I have an older video where I break down all of my gear and explain it a little more. I'll try and find the video link later tonight and comment under the thread with it for you
Great video with tons of useful information. The one thing I did not see was how you determine your flash setting from photo to photo as you moved through the property . This is where I tend to have to most issues with.
If you look a little further down in the comments someone else asked this same question and I broke it down a little bit giving a rough lighting power of the AD200 for each room :)
@@mcculloughimagery4952 there are a lot of bags or actually quick disconnects you can use, but I went the super cheapo route and just bent up a white metal cloths hanger into the shape I thought would work best. I did a video on it like a year ago so I'm sure the audio is a little crappy, but it shows it up close if you want a better idea
Correct I am bouncing my light off of colored surfaces occasionally, but that's just how it works. The light is angled towards the ceiling so the majority of the color will be white and 75% of the houses I shoot have grey walls so it's not such an issue. Pulling white balance in LR takes no time at all and kills the majority of it. The only time it is more difficult to do are dark red rooms. Those seem to give the strobe/camera combo the most issues with colors, but still a simple fix in LR most times. Keep in mind this is not meant to deliver a high end outsourced looking image. You can see from the video the images I produce are incredible for the amount of time spent on them, but there is no way you can do in one exposure what you send off to an editor to do with 5+ images. If you are looking to deliver flawless images for multi-million dollar properties, this is not my suggested method, but my team shoots roughly 15 properties a day with this method, outselling my high end outsourced image package by almost 80%. They care more about having the images as soon as possible than they do about them looking a little bit better(their words not mine). These images literally sell houses before other photographers in my area can even get the images back to their agents 🤣
Yep.. still watching your videos, over and over!.. I have been a manual shooter for years and am trying to stay with manual with my AD200 pro and flashpoints used for second room fill. Im using the ad200 same as you are but Im not getting a soft enough room light.. Ive been putting the flashes at about 1/2 power and bouncing the lights at 1/60 at f8 or so..(dont want to lose the widows) I am not getting that nice soft light that you are getting.. any advice? (remember, Im coming from film and old honeywell 880 strobes, all manual... never had these dark areas in my shots b4... thanks again for all you do!
The secret is to stick the flash out as far into the room while pointing it backwards as possible without being in the frame. The closer it is the the wall/ceiling you are bouncing it off of, the harsher those shadows will be
Awesome video as always Jeremy ! You said many times before that you aim backward with the AD and not straight up. What if the wall behind you is not white.
Ahh this is the difficult part. Usually I try and bounce off of a door since they are white 85% of the time, but really when you angle your light backwards I still keep it at about 45° degree. I try and pint the flash at the corner of the room, and I usually try to aim more for the white part of the ceiling, especially if there is an extreme wall color. Other than that, I use the eyedropper in LR to remove the color cast and if needed you can use a grading color blend in another layer in LR to even out the tones(though I almost never do this).
So far I LOVE it!! the photo quality is 10x better than the Olympus I was shooting on. I am still using the GH5s for video work though since it is way wider, but I will be trying out the Lowa 9mm APSC lens soon to try the 4k60 in a more realistic way on the camera
thanks for the pointers.. been a photo pro for 50 years and you taught me more! I know the a74 doesnt do HDR.. is there a reason you didnt go with the a73 or another camera with HDR.. Blown windows is a pet peeve! Thanks.
I chose the A7iv because I needed something that was a true hybrid shooter. I was originally just looking for a new camera for video because the autofocus is horrible on the GH5s and I needed something reliable for agent walkthrough shots, then my main camera started giving me issues so the A7iv was a pretty easy choice. I had that in-camera HDR option on my older camera and to be quite honest, I used it for every exterior image but when I tested it's "edit-ability" it had less dynamic range that the traditional single expose raw so I stopped using that mode all together. Basically having an in-camera hdr was the last thing I was considering when purchasing my new camera 🤣
how do you find 9mm 2.8 laowa for a74 for real estate? does the resolution and sharpness in apsc mode does the job good enough? or it's only usable for video?
I have actually never used it for photos yet. I got it about 3-4 weeks ago and for video it's doing really well and I just recently did a review on it, but again I tend to prefer to have a zoom lens for photos so I use the 12-24
Excellent as usual. I noticed that the external window views, though not blown out, are left pretty light, which I think is fine much of the time. When there are particularly nice views outside do you ever use a another exposure, perhaps a window pull to give more detail? Thanks for this.
I actually offer two different packages to my clients, one that is basic out of the camera like shown in this video and a more expensive package that involves outsourcing. For the past two years this package seems to sell more mainly because the market is so hot in my area.
I’ve enjoyed your informative videos, as I’m starting down a new career path…seems you’ve escaped the HDR phase & Flambient shots…seems like the way to go…I’ve already got the lights for my Canon RP…need more practice…
I offer both services to my clients, one is more of a high end package that does hdr blends sent off to an editor and one that is basic from the camera for a little cheaper. 75% of my orders are for the less expensive package with how hot the market has been these past two years
Hey there Kyle, while I do offer a more high end photo package that includes blends, this style is just the single strobe exposure. This style outsells my high end package by 2-3x because most agents prefer to save the $ and the super quick turnaround time afforded by not having an outsource editor.
@@jeremydeihl That's really cool, I think that would be fine for some of what I do. Would an on camera flash be able to do as well? I've only been doing HDR and it seems like having flash is much better.
@@kyleschwartz. an on camera flash would not do it because it's not powerful enough and you can not change the direction it fires. It always points forward and you don't want that because it will cause heavy shadows that do not look good
@@kyleschwartz. I personally like all the strobes from Flashpoint. It's an Adorama re-brand of Godox and from my personal experience the repair process was much easier. They have everything from smaller $75 strobes all the way up the ladder. Just keep in mind that I would recommend spending as much as you can afford on a main strobe and if you go back in my videos I do a review between the flashpoint 300 xplor pro vs the AD200(another very popular option) and I have videos dedicated to the smaller strobes they offer as well
Great video and fantastic images with no blending of ambient and flash....efficient!! My question is this; with your ISO set at 640, how do you get your view outside when in brightly lit spaces? Wouldn't you max out your sync speed with your flash at that sensitive of an ISO? Any specific settings you could give with regards to this property on your flash setting, and shutter? I realize those change from room to room, but if I can replicate and be more efficient; win-win! Thanks for your time and help. :)
I keep my back scroll wheel set for iso so I can quickly adjust it. When I go outside I usually drop the ISO down to like 100 depending on how bright it is. Generally speaking when shooting inside I'm at f7-8 ISO 640 and SS like 1/10. Luckily using the godox/flashpoint system they all have HSS built into them so you can easily cruise past SS 1/250 without a problem, though I rarely do. If it's too bright I'll try to drop ISO before I start increasing SS past 1/250. Hope that helps!
@@jeremydeihl thank you! I will experiment and see what works. I have a similar set up as you (AD200+Sony a7iii) but I blend my two exposures for flambient images. Shadows are always what you fight with in flashed spaces....but maybe the pointing back of the flash will help. I'll give it a whirl! :). Anything to save time on site and in post is more money in the bank!
@@sarahwagner2998 I’ve also found that pointing the flash backwards at the intersection where the roof and walls connect definitely helps reduce those shadows you get from flash and it provides a more even illumination of the room/ceiling
So these are just flash shots not HDR or flambient? Your not blending flash shots w ambient shots together? They look nice. Thanks for the video, good advice at the end.
That is correct Thomas. They are done with a single in camera exposure and only processed in Lightroom. No HDR, Flambient, or window pulls. I do all of those things on other jobs when required, but I make them pay extra if I have to use an outsource editor.
Unfortunately this is 100% incorrect. I have an entire video about the importance of using a polarizer during flash photography with tons of examples in the video showing shot by shot both with and without a polarizer. I would advise checking that out. You can knock out some reflections with a flash, but the fact is the only way to remove specular reflection is with a filter designed to scatter those rays.
It depends on the strobe and the room size so giving an exact number is difficult. That being said if I'm using the A7iv with the Flashpoint Xplor300 pro, most of the main living space and primary bedroom are at 1/2 power, all regular sized bathrooms and bedrooms about 1/4-1/8 power, and small half baths at like 1/16-1/32
Okay.. so I'm with my wife on vacation.. in Paris, and I decide that I want to take a picture similar to the ones you are showing us and I proceed to hang off the platform on the Eifel to get this great shot!! And.. and my wife goes around the corner to get the police. I told them I was just getting the wildest shot in the world Officer. I'm here to get this cool picture Officer.. like this guy online!! What.. are you all nuts?
Thanks for the great vid! Are you mostly shooting at 12mm? I shoot Sony crop, so Im looking at the Laowa 9mm f2.8 zero-d (approximately 13.5 mm) or the Sony 10-18mm f4 (approximate 15-27mm). Would you say the wider angles in a fixed lens are better or would it be okay to shoot at 15mm wide and have the ability to zoom? Thanks again!
It depends on if you are doing video and photos or just one or the other. For photos I prefer to have a zoom lens because it just makes it much easier on site than dealing with a fixed focal length for photos. For just video I would say the Lowa 9mm(I'm actually going to get one of these lenses soon for my rig) because it looks really really sharp in video. Hope that helps!
Dope. I never thought about this type of photography. Very informative and less work in post production. What type of images would you call this particular type of photography?
@@jeremydeihl I’m just getting into it. I would like to send you some of the work I’ve done and get your opinion on it. I haven’t put it out there like that yet but I plan on it soon after I get confident in my product.
I know what you mean there. Have you checked out my video going over three of the main audio sources I use? here is the video if you're interested :) ua-cam.com/video/FsS_3Fi3yZI/v-deo.html
Just depends on your own personal preference. I personally shoot this way because it takes the same amount of time on site as HDR but only about 5-10 mins to edit an entire house with no outsource editor. I tell everyone to stick with what method works good for them, but it takes me about 25 minutes to complete a house(both on-site and editing at home) with this method and that's why I prefer it
![Exposing My Real Estate Photography Workflow 🤯 [So you can copy it]](/img/n.gif)
dude, I already know almost all of the things you went over in this video and still watched it until the end.... I wish everyone made their videos in this manor... No BS.... straight and to the point and every single sentence had content that is usable.... I did learn a new trick too... the door knob height is brilliant.... Will start that tomorrow!!! Subscribed!!! Great work man!
Thank you very much, that's what I'm going for. I try and get to the point quickly and spend the rest of the video BS-ing about it so you only have to watch it all if I'm informative/funny haha 😂
@@jeremydeihl How do you deal with the the look of the windows without bracketing?
@@mikem6796 you point the flash at the window and over expose the area around it. There’s several UA-cam videos on it, just search “window pulls”.
About the vertical and horizonal lines, Capture One is pretty correct them. Sometimes if you dont have the propper space to shoot, like for example in a tiny room, you have to use different angles. And even for panorama shoots, the adaptative wide angle filter is really good for saving those shoots where lines are crazy. Good video, Jeremy.
Great video. I've experimented with hdr and flambient over the years but still end up coming back to this more time efficient type of method for almost everything, i.e. getting the shot in one frame, using multiple small strobes as necessary and letting the ambient do the heavy lifting. The only thing I do slightly differently is I usually bounce my key flash above the scene (in front of rather than behind the camera) on a small extension pole.
How do you deal with the the look of the windows without bracketing?
@@mikem6796 that's one of the trickiest parts but I usually have the windows slightly over exposed, then bring back some highlight detail in post. In backlit situations I use more flash power and stop down to prevent bloom around windows.
I found your video to be the most helpful! Such great info and examples. Best video ever where you show both video and photo, explanation to why you do it, tips, and doing bts. I hope to see you back soon. Love your video a lot!!!
Thank you so much! As long as it's helpful is all that matters to me😁
Be sure to watch my video releasing today because I'm doing my first channel giveaway contest!
Great video! You have some very helpful advice here, and showed maybe the easiest, cleanest RE Photography process I've seen so far.
Thanks for your video! Question as a beginner: why not use iso 100 to maximize image quality and crank your shutter speed to compensate?
100 iso may give you the absolute least amount of grain, but you will require much stronger strobes to light the room. Cracking up the ISO a little will make everything easier and the strobes you have to buy are much cheaper. If I was photographing people that may want to print or Crip into the image, I would shoot at the lowest ISO, but these images are just used for advertising on the web so it's not as necessary.
Plus most modern day cameras can get to about 800ISO before the noise starts becoming noticeable
I used to think so to, but 100 iso is actually not the best Image quality. It differs on every camera. On a7iv 400 iso is the best image quality. That's what I always use on daytime. But I do HDR with no strobes. Even some indoor lights I turn off. You'll get nicer shadows and more even walls and gradients with natural light.
Could you show your process of working the photos. They certainly don't turn out like the final examples with one photo and a flash pop. Interested in what you do. Thanks
I have a binder that has a check list thats inside a plastic sheet and i use a dry erase marker to check off my shots as I do them, works good for aerial work as well. Also helps to not forget a shot.
Hey Jeremy thanks so much for sharing those amazing contents, can you please li the video on how to set the 2 zoom flashes? Thanks
Great information Jeremy! Question on setting your exposures. Do you set the "ambient" portion of your exposure to be "correct" for the windows or other bright areas of the scene or what criteria are you using for establishing the shutter value of your exposure (since you've already established your ISO and Aperture)? Also, when adding the flash are you typical trying to use it as a "fill light" to compliment the ambient exposure?
That is correct, I'm trying to expose for the look I want from the windows and filling in the rest of that with the strobe power. Sometimes I have to use the window pull technique, especially when dealing with long dark rooms or ones with particularly bright exteriors shining in because the images always look better with more ambient. The ratio I would hope for in these scenarios is 60-70% ambient with the strobe fill for the remainder.
Great video! I like the light tip, I accidentally missed a room last week. I was waiting for the ceiling fan to stop and shot another room and forgot to come back to shoot it. The agent wasn’t happy, but accepted a free 3D tour on their next listing. I checked out the property from the video, I thought I delivered a lot of photos, I’m glad I’m not the only one that delivers lots of photos to clients. I see photographers talking about 25-36photo packages on FB, but I don’t get limiting photos with digital, unless the MLS limits the number to 25-36. Personally I think door knob height is a little low, I use the top of the light switch plate (48”), to me that seems like a more natural viewing angle. You have other employees that shot for you, do they shoot Flambient as well or just bracketed HDR? Anyway love all the videos and information you put out.
Thank you so much! I am a photographer in Charlotte NC and I'm trying to get into real estate. This really helped getting my wheels turning.
Glad it was helpful, and if you are ever looking for a little insight in the area I know Sam who runs Network Charlotte so that could be another great connection point for you.
love the video man. Question for all RE Photographers. Why do we like to have the sick fossette on? I always do it because i see everyone else do it lol
I only do it for video. I always turn the faucet on and spin the fan as low as possible because it gives a little more movement in the frame. Sometimes those slow push-ins can look like it's done with a photo, so adding some extra movement in there makes it feel "more alive" or something like that.
Great information on how to capture a property. Thanks for posting! Clear and concise. I will try these tips. I liked it so much I subscribed!
That's awesome! Thank you and I hope the information helps in your workflow
Thanks man, amazing tips as always! Can you suggest me one thing please? I use a Sony a6000 and I shoot with bracketing but with this model of camera you can shoot 5 images only up to 0.7Ev difference and over 0.7 only 3 images (they limited the software…) so I shoot 3.0Ev3 instead of 2.0Ev3, but when there are very bright lights or bright windows I get very overexposed lights /windows even after merging the photos in Lrc with Lr enfuse. I even tried to drop the starting photo Ev by -1 but still the lights/windows gets too much over exposed, what can I do? Can’t really figure it out. Thanks a lot!
Without going too far into it over text, you need to start incorporating window pulls into workflow to get those perfectly exposed windows. Here is a video I did a while ago going over the process:
ua-cam.com/video/i69PjxPNWUE/v-deo.html
@@jeremydeihl thanks a lot 🔥💚
You clearly know your craft! Great video I’ve shot flambient for almost a year now and never knew to point the flash backwards
Glad the information was helpful!
Excellent video and nice presentation. Loved it a lot and also subscribed it. Hey Jeremy, you have earned a subscriber which you well deserve.
Thank you!
Great video 😊 I'm shooting the Fujifilm system, what off-camera flash/light would u recommend for a beginner? TIA.
Honestly you can't go wrong with either Godox or Flashpoint. I personally prefer Flashpoint because it is nested under Adorama brand making the repairs process much easier. But they are both the exact same insides so the two systems are interchangeable. I have a video comparing the Godox AD200(a very very popular option in RR photos) and the FP 300xplore(my personal favorite of the two) if you want a little deeper of a dive on the two lights and systems
I love your flash holder. How did you make that ?
It's actually just a bent up hanger wrapped around my tripod. You can buy a bag that does the same thing that cost about 40 bucks but I figured free was better for me lol. I have an older video where I break down all of my gear and explain it a little more. I'll try and find the video link later tonight and comment under the thread with it for you
@@jeremydeihl
I love the creativity. I also wear a toolbelt on location
@@johnmarkreed one of the guys on my team wears one too! He swears by it
I do real estate photography, but with my iPhone 13 Pro Max and I just use the level app from apple to be leveled at each photo
Would love to see some examples of these if you would not mind? Do you do any post production on them or just use them sooc?
Great video with tons of useful information. The one thing I did not see was how you determine your flash setting from photo to photo as you moved through the property . This is where I tend to have to most issues with.
If you look a little further down in the comments someone else asked this same question and I broke it down a little bit giving a rough lighting power of the AD200 for each room :)
@@jeremydeihl how did you mount your flash to your tripod?
@@mcculloughimagery4952 there are a lot of bags or actually quick disconnects you can use, but I went the super cheapo route and just bent up a white metal cloths hanger into the shape I thought would work best. I did a video on it like a year ago so I'm sure the audio is a little crappy, but it shows it up close if you want a better idea
@@jeremydeihl u have a link to that video
@@mcculloughimagery4952 ua-cam.com/video/rRDgWE_V7_8/v-deo.html
Nice video, definitely want to see more about you just using only a flash and no hdr or flam
I made a video earlier in the year showing how I actually place those little zoom R2minis in the process
So you are bouncing flash from all manner of colored surfaces.
Effectively filtering your light, so how is that good for WB?
Correct I am bouncing my light off of colored surfaces occasionally, but that's just how it works. The light is angled towards the ceiling so the majority of the color will be white and 75% of the houses I shoot have grey walls so it's not such an issue. Pulling white balance in LR takes no time at all and kills the majority of it. The only time it is more difficult to do are dark red rooms. Those seem to give the strobe/camera combo the most issues with colors, but still a simple fix in LR most times. Keep in mind this is not meant to deliver a high end outsourced looking image. You can see from the video the images I produce are incredible for the amount of time spent on them, but there is no way you can do in one exposure what you send off to an editor to do with 5+ images. If you are looking to deliver flawless images for multi-million dollar properties, this is not my suggested method, but my team shoots roughly 15 properties a day with this method, outselling my high end outsourced image package by almost 80%. They care more about having the images as soon as possible than they do about them looking a little bit better(their words not mine). These images literally sell houses before other photographers in my area can even get the images back to their agents 🤣
@@jeremydeihl So, whatever works for you, thanks for the long and considered reply 👍
No worries at all! If you have anymore questions don't be afraid to ask
man u have a great vibe, nice presentation, thanks a lot!
Thank you!
Yep.. still watching your videos, over and over!.. I have been a manual shooter for years and am trying to stay with manual with my AD200 pro and flashpoints used for second room fill. Im using the ad200 same as you are but Im not getting a soft enough room light.. Ive been putting the flashes at about 1/2 power and bouncing the lights at 1/60 at f8 or so..(dont want to lose the widows) I am not getting that nice soft light that you are getting.. any advice? (remember, Im coming from film and old honeywell 880 strobes, all manual... never had these dark areas in my shots b4... thanks again for all you do!
The secret is to stick the flash out as far into the room while pointing it backwards as possible without being in the frame. The closer it is the the wall/ceiling you are bouncing it off of, the harsher those shadows will be
Very informative for the height levels and vertical lines, never would’ve thought of that.
Glad the information was helpful!
Awesome video as always Jeremy ! You said many times before that you aim backward with the AD and not straight up. What if the wall behind you is not white.
Ahh this is the difficult part. Usually I try and bounce off of a door since they are white 85% of the time, but really when you angle your light backwards I still keep it at about 45° degree. I try and pint the flash at the corner of the room, and I usually try to aim more for the white part of the ceiling, especially if there is an extreme wall color. Other than that, I use the eyedropper in LR to remove the color cast and if needed you can use a grading color blend in another layer in LR to even out the tones(though I almost never do this).
Excellent video Jeremy, how are you liking that Sony???
So far I LOVE it!! the photo quality is 10x better than the Olympus I was shooting on. I am still using the GH5s for video work though since it is way wider, but I will be trying out the Lowa 9mm APSC lens soon to try the 4k60 in a more realistic way on the camera
thanks for the pointers.. been a photo pro for 50 years and you taught me more! I know the a74 doesnt do HDR.. is there a reason you didnt go with the a73 or another camera with HDR.. Blown windows is a pet peeve! Thanks.
I chose the A7iv because I needed something that was a true hybrid shooter. I was originally just looking for a new camera for video because the autofocus is horrible on the GH5s and I needed something reliable for agent walkthrough shots, then my main camera started giving me issues so the A7iv was a pretty easy choice. I had that in-camera HDR option on my older camera and to be quite honest, I used it for every exterior image but when I tested it's "edit-ability" it had less dynamic range that the traditional single expose raw so I stopped using that mode all together. Basically having an in-camera hdr was the last thing I was considering when purchasing my new camera 🤣
Great video! BTW wchich camera do you use for make this video? Cheers
Thanks Marcin! To film the video I am using the GH5s with the 7-14mm M.Zukio 2.8
how do you find 9mm 2.8 laowa for a74 for real estate? does the resolution and sharpness in apsc mode does the job good enough? or it's only usable for video?
I have actually never used it for photos yet. I got it about 3-4 weeks ago and for video it's doing really well and I just recently did a review on it, but again I tend to prefer to have a zoom lens for photos so I use the 12-24
Nice video! Thanks . Do you use HDR as well? Or you are using just this technique?
I do flambient for my high end shoots, but 75% of what I dliver is this method of shooting.
Excellent as usual. I noticed that the external window views, though not blown out, are left pretty light, which I think is fine much of the time. When there are particularly nice views outside do you ever use a another exposure, perhaps a window pull to give more detail? Thanks for this.
I actually offer two different packages to my clients, one that is basic out of the camera like shown in this video and a more expensive package that involves outsourcing. For the past two years this package seems to sell more mainly because the market is so hot in my area.
@@jeremydeihl Thank you for your reply. More videos please; don't know why you haven't got 10x more subscribers.
Incredible amount of information, thank you for this! Going to suss out your other videos now :D
Thank you!
can you do a video comparaing flash vs hdr with one flash
what MM are you shooting indoors vs outdoors?
It really depends on the angle I'm going for. Usually between 14-20mm rarely going to 12mm unless it's a super small room
@@jeremydeihl so you will use the same MM for outdoors?
Where can i get that flash holder ? 3:33
Are you talking about the pistol grip I have attached to the flash or the metal hanger I bent around my tripod to hand my strobe off of? 🤣
@@jeremydeihl oh so it's a metal hanger , i think it's handy ☺️👍
Great video and it helped me out a lot…. Just now getting into real estate photography ( shooting for PlanOmatic) to get my feet wet. Thanks!!
That's awesome, glad it was helpful
I’ve enjoyed your informative videos, as I’m starting down a new career path…seems you’ve escaped the HDR phase & Flambient shots…seems like the way to go…I’ve already got the lights for my Canon RP…need more practice…
I offer both services to my clients, one is more of a high end package that does hdr blends sent off to an editor and one that is basic from the camera for a little cheaper. 75% of my orders are for the less expensive package with how hot the market has been these past two years
Do you take multiple shots and merge them or do you just need to use the flash thing that you're holding and only need one shot?
Hey there Kyle, while I do offer a more high end photo package that includes blends, this style is just the single strobe exposure. This style outsells my high end package by 2-3x because most agents prefer to save the $ and the super quick turnaround time afforded by not having an outsource editor.
@@jeremydeihl That's really cool, I think that would be fine for some of what I do. Would an on camera flash be able to do as well? I've only been doing HDR and it seems like having flash is much better.
@@kyleschwartz. an on camera flash would not do it because it's not powerful enough and you can not change the direction it fires. It always points forward and you don't want that because it will cause heavy shadows that do not look good
@@jeremydeihl Thank you, are there any off camera budget friendly flashes that you recommend?
@@kyleschwartz. I personally like all the strobes from Flashpoint. It's an Adorama re-brand of Godox and from my personal experience the repair process was much easier. They have everything from smaller $75 strobes all the way up the ladder. Just keep in mind that I would recommend spending as much as you can afford on a main strobe and if you go back in my videos I do a review between the flashpoint 300 xplor pro vs the AD200(another very popular option) and I have videos dedicated to the smaller strobes they offer as well
Keep up the great videos. Good pace and solid info!
Thanks Jared! I'll keep making them as long as y'all keep watching them
Thank you for the composition tips
Glad it helped!
Thank you for sharing Jeremy. You do great work man.
Thank you! This video ended up being a pretty popular one so I'm debating making one just like it for real estate videos instead of photos
This is great thank you!
Great video and fantastic images with no blending of ambient and flash....efficient!! My question is this; with your ISO set at 640, how do you get your view outside when in brightly lit spaces? Wouldn't you max out your sync speed with your flash at that sensitive of an ISO? Any specific settings you could give with regards to this property on your flash setting, and shutter? I realize those change from room to room, but if I can replicate and be more efficient; win-win! Thanks for your time and help. :)
I keep my back scroll wheel set for iso so I can quickly adjust it. When I go outside I usually drop the ISO down to like 100 depending on how bright it is. Generally speaking when shooting inside I'm at f7-8 ISO 640 and SS like 1/10. Luckily using the godox/flashpoint system they all have HSS built into them so you can easily cruise past SS 1/250 without a problem, though I rarely do. If it's too bright I'll try to drop ISO before I start increasing SS past 1/250. Hope that helps!
@@jeremydeihl thank you! I will experiment and see what works. I have a similar set up as you (AD200+Sony a7iii) but I blend my two exposures for flambient images. Shadows are always what you fight with in flashed spaces....but maybe the pointing back of the flash will help. I'll give it a whirl! :). Anything to save time on site and in post is more money in the bank!
@@sarahwagner2998 I’ve also found that pointing the flash backwards at the intersection where the roof and walls connect definitely helps reduce those shadows you get from flash and it provides a more even illumination of the room/ceiling
@@Tacuddin Thank you, I have been trying this a bit and just working on improving.
Very helpful! Love your personality! Thanks again!
Thank you! I'm glad the information was helpful 😃
How did you shoot the video of the home? Did you use a slider?
It depends on the room itself, but I use a combination of gimbal, electric sliders and drones when making my videos.
@@jeremydeihl Awesome. I like your work!
Get that UA-cam money !!!! Nice video thanks.
So these are just flash shots not HDR or flambient? Your not blending flash shots w ambient shots together? They look nice. Thanks for the video, good advice at the end.
That is correct Thomas. They are done with a single in camera exposure and only processed in Lightroom. No HDR, Flambient, or window pulls. I do all of those things on other jobs when required, but I make them pay extra if I have to use an outsource editor.
@@jeremydeihl Awesome thanks!
you don't need a CPL if you're using flash.The flash will kill all those reflections including the floot.
Unfortunately this is 100% incorrect. I have an entire video about the importance of using a polarizer during flash photography with tons of examples in the video showing shot by shot both with and without a polarizer. I would advise checking that out. You can knock out some reflections with a flash, but the fact is the only way to remove specular reflection is with a filter designed to scatter those rays.
Do you really need a flash to shoot a house?
Do you NEED a flash, not at all. Will it enhance your final product and speed up your workflow on-site, probably
Can I just say my favorite part of this video was the lightsaber….. Great video overall!
Haha thanks man! I keep using them in the background so I figured I can spin them around a bit too 😂
Extremely helpful!
Awesome!
What flash settings have you use?
It depends on the strobe and the room size so giving an exact number is difficult. That being said if I'm using the A7iv with the Flashpoint Xplor300 pro, most of the main living space and primary bedroom are at 1/2 power, all regular sized bathrooms and bedrooms about 1/4-1/8 power, and small half baths at like 1/16-1/32
Great vid. Subbed.
Thank you!
Amazing vídeo!
Thank you! Glad it helps
Okay.. so I'm with my wife on vacation.. in Paris, and I decide that I want to take a picture similar to the ones you are showing us and I proceed to hang off the platform on the Eifel to get this great shot!! And.. and my wife goes around the corner to get the police. I told them I was just getting the wildest shot in the world Officer. I'm here to get this cool picture Officer.. like this guy online!! What.. are you all nuts?
Hahaha sometimes the person of the perfect photo can drive us all a little nuts! Let's see the shot if you want to show it off!
Thank you very much
Glad it is helpful!
Thanks for the great vid! Are you mostly shooting at 12mm?
I shoot Sony crop, so Im looking at the Laowa 9mm f2.8 zero-d (approximately 13.5 mm) or the Sony 10-18mm f4 (approximate 15-27mm).
Would you say the wider angles in a fixed lens are better or would it be okay to shoot at 15mm wide and have the ability to zoom?
Thanks again!
It depends on if you are doing video and photos or just one or the other. For photos I prefer to have a zoom lens because it just makes it much easier on site than dealing with a fixed focal length for photos. For just video I would say the Lowa 9mm(I'm actually going to get one of these lenses soon for my rig) because it looks really really sharp in video. Hope that helps!
most of my shoots are with homes with redwood ceilings and ocean views so this does not work for me.
so you don't bracket your photos?
Nor for this style of photography. I do still offer a flambient style for a higher end price, but these images are what 90% of my clients order
Dope. I never thought about this type of photography. Very informative and less work in post production.
What type of images would you call this particular type of photography?
@@jeremydeihl I’m just getting into it. I would like to send you some of the work I’ve done and get your opinion on it. I haven’t put it out there like that yet but I plan on it soon after I get confident in my product.
@@stanleygaines8024 I have it labeled on my order form as traditional mls photography since that's what it's really based off of.
@@stanleygaines8024 for sure man, feel free to send me an email. I have helped lots of others in their journey
Thanks bro :D
My biggest struggle is finding the right music for the videos.
I know what you mean there. Have you checked out my video going over three of the main audio sources I use? here is the video if you're interested :)
ua-cam.com/video/FsS_3Fi3yZI/v-deo.html
Did you take only 1 photo?
Yes, for this technique it is just a single exposure image.
@jeremydeihl waooo look really good, the high school doing 5 braket with 1 flash
also. I Never use any flash. Shoot all 3 or 5 bracket HDR. Why flash over HDR?
Just depends on your own personal preference. I personally shoot this way because it takes the same amount of time on site as HDR but only about 5-10 mins to edit an entire house with no outsource editor. I tell everyone to stick with what method works good for them, but it takes me about 25 minutes to complete a house(both on-site and editing at home) with this method and that's why I prefer it