Easy, Reusable and LOW TEMP Metal Casting from 3D Printed Parts!
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- Опубліковано 1 сер 2017
- Easily cast real metal parts using 3D printed parts, an air compressor and a pressure vessel. If you do try this, be careful! It's not crazy hot but still enough to burn you badly. Also make sure whatever you use for a pressure vessel is rated for the pressure you will be using!
Now on Instagram! @chrisdeprisco
Patreon link for those who want to help me keep making stuff: / chrisdeprisco
Special thanks to Eric Moeller, James Waples, Daniel Wagner, Jon Einarsson, John Scherer, DOMINIK LIZAK, Ben Knight and Tex© for their support!
The metal alloy I'm using: www.rotometals.com/lead-free-...
The Maltese Falcon model: www.thingiverse.com/thing:46631
The Silicone: www.alumilite.com/store/p/921...
Music by Epidemic Sound (www.epidemicsound.com) - Наука та технологія
Hi Chris, so good to see that you are using the direct casting in silicone. I used that technique 30 years ago in my Berlin studio, but for much larger sculpture castings. The silicone could stand 500 C = 932 F. I made my own tin bronze, casting temperature about 400-440 C. The problems that you had with the ' dry ' look of your casting: the metal temperature too low and the inner surface of the silicone not adequate. You can entirely skip the vaccum when u do the following: use graphite powder and brush it on the inner side of the silicone. Better is to cut open the silicone and prepare / have an outer plaster shell to hold it later firmly together. The graphite lets the metal flow perfectly smooth and the outer plaster keeps the silicone hot so that the metal cools evenly and creates a dense structure. For the first layer on your part: this is of course a delicate procedure and is essential to have a very good surface.
To avoid a parting line on the metal when you have several cut silicone: use cyanoacrylate and glue the silicone parts step by step together. For larger parts also staple carefully across the cutting lines. Then put it all in your plaster mold. For larger castings it is best to prepare a sand box to place the plaster mold in, that is a mandatory protection feature and also extends the cooling process which is essential for a good cast.
looking forward for your next experiments :-). Like 104
Herri
Good stuff, thanks!
You’re a good guy. Take care !
i would be thrilled to see you explaining this in a video❤
I don't own a pressure vessel, but I do own some gloves...
seriously
@Alin Ardelean and you put a mold on the cast model in them?
Hack a pressure cooker
@@OlivierLopezCh how much is a pressure cooker ?
@@OlivierLopezCh how much is a pressure cooker ?
6:50 holy fuck, going to give me a heart attack lol
So helpful seeing the failed castings, it gives such a better understanding of why to have a warm mould and why to use a pressure chamber. Best video I've seen in ages, I wish more channels would show the ones that didn't work, it helps understand the process.
Laser Man hey I have casted many failed attempts and man I’m terrible but my castings are getting better. You can see on my channel👍
Man, lifting that molten metal, was on the edge of my seat :D
agree with this, super gringey
I was rooting for the molten metal, so the world could have a high quality darwin award video
Yeah and he has a 3d printer where he could make a pair of plastic tongs to lift it. Duh!!
Back in the 80's they used to sell these molding sets to children. I was messing with molten metal before my teenage years. How times have changed. Bubble boys everywhere.
@@sburgos9621 Soy boys everwhere, a bowl of hot oil is more dangerous than this "molten metal" at 138ºC
Chris! Your process brought back memories from when I started doing small pewter castings, in Germany, in the early '80's. Stationed there as an Army NCO 3 times total. Lived there twice as a child starting in 1953. I used a German high temp RTV available at German hobby shops at the time. Started by casting spoons and small objects to get the skills needed. The comments by 'erlinghagendesign' below covered other issues I needed to solve at the time. Now I use Smooth-On products for small automotive based items. I do have one desire that an even higher temperature resistant Silicone was available where Brass, aluminum and other nonferrous metals could be cast. I also learned about "Kirksite" from casting and stamping videos on UA-cam! That too is a very durable metal with a low melting temperature for stamping sheet metal parts in the automotive industry! Thanks for your post! Jesse
Subbed. I really like that you showed and documented the mistakes you made. People often underestimate how much others can learn from these mistakes. Loving your content so far.
Alex Saltarin Agreed!!
I was sanding off the layer lines at great distress. I never thought of using paint until your video. Thanks man!
high build primer works great
THE best videos in terms of "Lets find out how to cheaply make a metal casted replica" ever. I am still grateful for this video. It shows that I don´t need a vacuum chamber as well but just a pressure pod.
I appreciate videos like this where there is experimentation and learning from mistakes. Very helpful! Thanks!
That’s awesome!!!
One of the best video I saw in last few years 😉
I especially appreciated the trial&error method you used to show us the improvements...very impressive and well explained 👍👍👍
Shocked by quality of the print then I saw the milling spindle. Out of the question!
Strongest 3d printer. Ever!
The first casting failed because the silicon was still wet (with oils and catalyst), pre-heating in a oven (15 minutes @ 200~250ºC)would solve this. There is a iron oxide infused silicon that works better (less thermal expasion mainly, wich uncovers the silicon bubbles) but it is brittle and may not work well with very irregular pieces using single part moulds. Coating the inside of the mould with baby powder or graphite powder (graphite is best in my experience) before casting increase the flow of the molten metal and reduce it's surface tension allowing better details without the need of casting under pressure.
Wow, that's great! The music was perfect and I watched the entire thing. Please make more of these 3D Printed casts, it's great! Subbed for more.
Glad you liked it! :)
Interesting approach on the mold using pressure.. The traditional approach to making sure your silicon is bubble free is vacuum.. But I guess really tiny bubbles are just as good as no bubbles at all.. Thanks for sharing.
I've always used a vacuum to remove air bubbles from silicon prior to pouring, this would no doubt have issues when using hollow printed parts, very cool to see your alternative method here with pressure. Also I like the electric furnace as a base for your heating the metal! Will keep that in mind for when I finally get mine finished too heh. Thanks for sharing!
Now glue the falcon to the hood of your car!
Was thinking the SAME thing.
awesome video! it was fun to watch and i like how honest you were! :) make more!
Pretty cool! A great example of the old adage, "If you at first don't succeed, try, try again"!
Awesome video with great editing and music!
Brilliant! You have wide range of projects and great music, that is a extra plus plus!!!
+Stephen Hodge Glad to gear you line the videos! The music actually takes a lot of effort so in glad to gear people enjoy it. :)
Fantastic!
(I hope you don't mind that I laughed when you showed that you hadn't mixed enough silicone the first time.) That was very honest of you! 😆👍
Those are some amazing quality prints!
love this video! answered all questions I had :) nice to see someone do mistakes and learn from it!
Great video dude and I loved the soundtrack aswell :)
I admire your persistence.
Wow! I learned so much with this video. Thank you!
wow dude, you're not giving up also giving up your research free on youtube. thanks bro
Great video, CDP; thanks for sharing. When I saw your excellent pressure chamber, I thought that you were going to pull a vacuum on the liquid silicone to draw all of the bubbles to the surface. I guess pressure works as well as vacuum. Using pressure during the cooling of the molten metal is a great idea. Good job. thanks
From my previous casting of lead figures you could forgo the pressure pot for the casting of the metal. Mainly all you need to do create the mold as you did, then when casting it heat up the mold either by placing it in a toaster oven, or do what you did and just do multiple castings in a row which will keep the mold warm, also use a cone as the riser or half sphere thats larger than the object that way you have a resivoor of molten metal so when the metal shrinks a bit you'll have enough to keep it filled, also easier to handle and you don't have to fill it up 100%. The big thing is you could make a slight zig zag cuts on one side (back perhaps) to make the master and castings easier to remove you can use clamps and two pieces of acrylic or hard board to secure them so the clamps don't squish the mold, and then use use of talc (or baby powder) to liberally coat the inside of the mold which allows for air to escape out the edges and give you a clean cast, thus eliminating the need for the pressure pot for casting.
the metal in the 'cone,' as you put it, also adds weight to help force more metal to the sides. i would imagine that you'd get better results with a runner or two, also.
never heard that as a trick before.
interesting and good to know, thanks.
Great Video thanks for showing solutions for bubbles in casting! Problems are more interesting than immediate success!
Everybody else has made appropriate comments, but let me say very well done video! Thank you.
awesome video man! super informative.
Try, try, and try again.
Until you get it right, or satisfactory, or moderately acceptable.
Love this channel!
The soundtrack is just awesome!
Maltese Falcon is one of favorite Radio Mystery Theater shows 😂😂👍👍..... nice content on your channel
Mercury Theatre
Great video. I wish you many more subscribers!
Very nice work! I do some epoxy molding but I may have to try this as well. :)
Have this video playing in the background, and this music is excellent!
Nice job. Thx for sharing.
Great work!
Great video! Subbed!
This was a realy interesting project.
Came for the casting, subbed for the soundtrack
Well done!
I will be purchasing a pressurized unit for my modes in the future.
very good work!
Now that's extreme casting.
Its nice to see the steps you take.
came here from AvE, I love the ave logo on the shelf behind you :)
AvE makes good stuff, i cast alot my self.... :)
Dude I though I was very ballsy around molten metal till I saw you lift that mold full of molten metal.
Great video! I think that vibration could also work for removing the bubbles.
Nice. Would like to see more videos like this.
+Granite I'm always looking to make videos people like! What specifically did you like about it?
Chris DePrisco I enjoyed the process, the trouble shooting, and the eventual success. A lot of inspiration for projects of my own.
seconded
Yes super video, i do alot of casting me self, on my channel so nice to se other castings.... :)
wow, using a giant precision mill is unfair!!😂😂
by the way, really love that setup, it's the dream of every maker!
This is a good candidate for making name plates
That looks like the start of an awesome chess set. Those would be great rooks. The kings could probably be that little Aztec-like statue from "Raiders of the Lost Ark".
Awesome, thanks!
That eagle was removed from the pink stuff very romantic. The sound is included 😁
This is some kind of Shell Mold Casting process isn't it? I mean, it seems like the same principle. Great video! thank you for sharing the whole process.
what silicon are you using ?vacuum degassing helps take bubbles out of the silicon too
Is that a milling machine 3d printer?? I love it hahahahaha
Trade names for that metal alloy are Cerrabend and Woods metal. They were used to fill copper pipes prior to bending, then heated to get it out. Now resins are used instead as the metal is very expensive now.
Woods metal has a lower melting temp (you can melt it in boiling water)...
Deposition 3D prints (PLA/ABS) have TONS of air in them, and will bubble if not sealed. An easy way to seal is with primer and paint. Resin 3D prints are solid by nature so they make for best molding. When pouring metal into a cold mold, dust with baby powder. You'll get a reliable pour the first time.
is there any way to use a similar technique for glass materials? I really want to make custom glass molds for things like cups.
Hi Chris -- Great video. Love the inclusion of missteps so we all learn the why as well as the what. Quick question, though -- what's your recommended setup for the mini-forge? I'm finding nothing on Google.
1. 3d print the mold case
2. calculate the required silicon volume in the design software (Rhinoceros my case)
3. use plastic 10ml & 50ml syiringes to measure the given mold component volumes.
4. thanks, good video.
5.use gloves!!
Very cool indeed, thanks for sharng. Which model of vacuum chamber is that ?
Awesome!!! If I understand what you did. You used pressure to remove the bubbles? Does this work better than degassing by using a vacuum?
Sherlock would be proud.
Hey, can you use just any pressure chamber for this, or is there something specific I need to look for?
could you makes gears for a robotic art thing like this? would dimensional stability be OK? also is there a more bronze looking metal i could use at low temperature? thanks
And what device did you use to apply pressure in the video, it looked similar to a Insta pot but I would like to know where to get one.
Is bizmuth tin 281 safe to use as ice cube trays? And will it leach into ice made using a bizmuth tin ice cube tray?
Wow great vid! Does the primer and topcoat really smooth the pla over that well? Brill idea I’m after something similar, that hadn’t occurred to me I was trying sandpaper and it’s just not that smooth afterwards. Cheers loads I’ll try it. Edit I also like your persistence! I’m also persistent it gets a lot of things done :)
Thanks that was cool.
I love the sound of polycarbonate on wood in the morning.
Bismuth, argh, fumes!
Please wear gloves, i know it's not highly toxic but it's still under-researched as far as environmental effects are concerned.
Does anyone know how strong this metal alloy is? I've often seen it compared to solder in the way that it melts, but is it as weak if cast thinly?
what other kinds of metals could you pour into this kind of silicone mold?
Wait are you using a cnc vatical milling machine as a 3D printer ?!?? That’s awesome !! Subscribing now
FOR THE LOVE OF GOD use a clamp or some grabbing tool, my fingers were burning just watching you move that mold into the chamber. Even UA-cam's recent product suggestion addition below this video are suggesting gloves and a set of tongs
"Aw yeah didnt burn m'self!"
It's a soft, pliable, silicon mould. Squeezing it with a pair of tongs will send the molten metal shooting out of the riser like toothpaste from a tube and could possibly damage the mould in the process.
Gloves suitable for casting metal would have been too bulky to be of any use at that scale.
He did fine as it is, leave him be.
great video .was wondering if you could load the printer with to save making the first model.
Chris, excellent vid even after all this time.
Question: What are you using to heat the metal, and what kind of pot are you melting it in?
What printer is that? looks like a cnc machine that you have attached a extruder to. Second, what filiment is that? i really like it
thanks
8:20 - Instead of extra pressure you'd better go with a vacuum - it will not shrink the bubles in a smaller size, but let *all* the air from the metal which is much better!
Alumilite instructions say de-mold in 12-18 hrs and fully cured in 7 days. How long did you let the silicone sit before removing the 3D printed part and pouring metal? thanks for the video! waiting on my silicone to set up right now!
0:50 That fly is checking your extruder temperature! ;)
Haha, nice catch. Even doing all the editing I never noticed it was there. :)
As opposed to just crushing the air bubbles you could actually get ride of them. Flip that pressure vessel to a vacuum chamber! Poof bubbles removed from both silicone and metal
Bryan Golden, thinking the same thing here...
Is bizmuth strong enough to use for gears?
your printer has almost no z banding its great
Dumb question but could this be done with hotter metals like copper?
Thanks for such an informative video. Seeing you pick up the mold bare handed had my heart racing. Wouldn't a safer way to handle everything be to put the mold into the pressure pot, and then pour the liquid metal into the mold so you don't have to move it?
what is the pressure vessel you are using called? tryna find it online to do somthing like this myself!
Does this work with 18k gold or platinum?
Instead of pressure, would vacuum not be better to remove the bubbles?
If I heard correctly , the temperature of the molten metal is 281 F = 138 Celsius. Doesn't that temperature ruins the mold after some usage?. Doesn't the mold gets white and looses elasticity ?.
Thanks.
Well, I learned some things.
Hi what do you use as mold, because it went to fast to hear what you use. 😀
Ladies and gentlmen, when dealing with molten metal, please wear safety gloves. And treat your mold with kindness
How many times can I use the silicone mold for metal casting
Where can you buy the materials used to make the mold?