I've opened the inverter and noticed the lack of quality control. The inverter has two metal bus bars (positive and negative) that connect from the battery terminals to the PCB. They were snapped off during assembly due to poor soldering. They should each be soldered on 3 spots to the PCB, but they were only soldered in one spot for the negative bus bar, and 2 spots for the positive bus bar. These bus bars carry over 160a from the battery and the PCB alone can't handle this much amperage without distributing the load over multiple connections. I've noticed this long after the return period and decided to solder them back myself. I've used a big 150w soldering iron and a solder sucker to do the job. A cheap 60w soldering iron won't have enough power and thermal mass to properly solder such heavy bus bars, it won't even melt the solder. The overall build quality for the inverter reflects the price (I paid 165 euros). The mosfets are decently cooled by aluminium heatsinks and don't use the metal case of the inverter for cooling. Personally I wouldn't use this inverter at max load for long periods of time, maybe for maximum of 10-15 minutes before the heatsinks thermally saturate and can't effectively cool the mosfets. The inverter can handle 1000w continuously with decent thermals, the heat sinks are adequate for that. I've used this inverter on my PC, which draws 300w continuously under heavy load. The fans started to slowly spin after 30 minutes of use. The inverter makes a squealing noise before the fans start to spin. I suspect it's the voltage boost and PWM control circuit for the fans, as they are rated for 24v, even though the inverter is 12v. The provided cables can only handle 100A continuously (or a 1000w load, taking into consideration that most high frequency inverters are about 85-90% efficient so the power draw from the battery is 10-15% higher than the load). I wouldn't use the cables with more than 100a, as they are a fire hazard. The input caps are quite small, but numerous. They are rated at 16v, which is a weak point of the inverter. I would've like to see 35v caps. If the inverter isn't used for a long time, I recommend you slowly recharge the capacitors with a resistor or an incandescent bulb as a current limiter. If you don't, these weak capacitors might release the magic smoke, as they need to be reformed.
Just turn the crimped lugs the other way around, so they'll be "back to back" with each other. You will be able to put the plastic cover over the terminals.
Thanks for idea, have You tried that? I think it was natural thing to do and it not fit that way - something was getting in way like wire - I have it on site so it's hard for me to confirm.
I know, that lug was to short - You can see this on video - when You rotate it part that is joining wire (crimp point) it touching that plastic insulation on terminal so it was on angle. That's why it was not an option.
@@ElectronicNoobBlogI own the same inverter, my cables are cut exactly at the same length. I zip tied them together so the lugs will always be correctly aligned "back to back". I recommend you replace the cables with better quality ones. I tested the inverter with approximately 100a load (1150w from a microwave) and the cables it came with got pretty warm. I doubt those cables could handle the full 2000w of the inverter without melting and starting a fire.
@catalinciceu6279 You are right - I've got the very same iverter and I've got the cables aligned back-to-back with no sign of problem. Also I think that the cables are designed well enough to handle that 200 AMPs needed for full load.
@@bnwlf Had a look inside the inverter and saw that the positive and negative bus bars were not soldered properly (some of them were detached from their soldering points) due to poor quality control. I had to disassemble the inverter to solder them back correctly, because I've noticed the defect past the return period. The inverter still worked as it is, so the store that I bought it from wouldn't warranty it. The negative bus bar was poorly soldered to one point to the PCB (instead of 3) and the positive only to 2, so sending 160A through a thin strip of copper from the PCB to the transformers and the other components was way to extreme. I've beefed up the connections and now there is no problem. Still, the overall quality of this inverter has gone down compared to the past revisions. I've searched disassembly videos of this inverter and they were much better built, and didn't have those stupid bus bars inside of them. If you look at the Green Cell official UA-cam channel, you'll see a video tutorial on how to replace the fuses on the inverter. The video is featuring their latest inverter (with an LCD display) so you can have a look at the internal components. It's not different than my older model (INV 11), except the LCD screen, all the internal components all exactly the same. Same 12 input and 4 output mosfets, and same stupid bus bars. Here is the video from Green Cell: ua-cam.com/video/5m-WcCyfhKA/v-deo.htmlsi=qXem0mTD7hRXQO7M Overall it's decently built, but personally, I can't recommend this inverter due to the stupid bus bar design and poor quality control.
Thank you for your impressions on this Inverter. I got one too and in addition to your remarks I encounter a strange behavior of the LCD Colordisdplay at front. The Load measurement remains whatsoever at 0 Watts and the Display itself goes OFF after about 2 min of operation. Has this to be like that? Didn't find anything appropriate in the instruction manual.
you cant put the cover on the Wires Connectors because you need to insert one Wire on one side and the other one to the Other side and not Both at the same site
I have a question, i have a small garage with 12V ceiling lamp, usually i have to use special 12V bulb, is it possible to use inverter like this or not?
Something with training need to take look at it - on many places You will find 12V AC or DC with half wave rectifier to prevent people stealing electricity and this is not something that You want feed into any inverter - also lightning circiut will be very limited in current so that kind of inverter would be overkill.
The inverter is good value for the price, but the build quality is mediocre. But again, for the price it's decent. I've written a long comment about it on this video if you want to check it out.
@@igorgomes7922 Make sure the inverter has proper ventilation and air intake. I see many truckers and RV'ers stick an inverter into an enclosed area and complain about their inverters failing rapidly. Under heavy load the inverter produces a lot of heat and needs to cool off. You don't want to stick it in a cupboard and have the fans recirculate the same air over and over again. That air will get hotter and hotter and will reduce the lifespan of the inverter. Also, think about vibration isolation. Heavy components such as inductors and transformers can get dislodged from the PCB under heavy vibration.
I've opened the inverter and noticed the lack of quality control.
The inverter has two metal bus bars (positive and negative) that connect from the battery terminals to the PCB. They were snapped off during assembly due to poor soldering. They should each be soldered on 3 spots to the PCB, but they were only soldered in one spot for the negative bus bar, and 2 spots for the positive bus bar. These bus bars carry over 160a from the battery and the PCB alone can't handle this much amperage without distributing the load over multiple connections.
I've noticed this long after the return period and decided to solder them back myself. I've used a big 150w soldering iron and a solder sucker to do the job. A cheap 60w soldering iron won't have enough power and thermal mass to properly solder such heavy bus bars, it won't even melt the solder.
The overall build quality for the inverter reflects the price (I paid 165 euros).
The mosfets are decently cooled by aluminium heatsinks and don't use the metal case of the inverter for cooling.
Personally I wouldn't use this inverter at max load for long periods of time, maybe for maximum of 10-15 minutes before the heatsinks thermally saturate and can't effectively cool the mosfets.
The inverter can handle 1000w continuously with decent thermals, the heat sinks are adequate for that.
I've used this inverter on my PC, which draws 300w continuously under heavy load. The fans started to slowly spin after 30 minutes of use. The inverter makes a squealing noise before the fans start to spin. I suspect it's the voltage boost and PWM control circuit for the fans, as they are rated for 24v, even though the inverter is 12v.
The provided cables can only handle 100A continuously (or a 1000w load, taking into consideration that most high frequency inverters are about 85-90% efficient so the power draw from the battery is 10-15% higher than the load). I wouldn't use the cables with more than 100a, as they are a fire hazard.
The input caps are quite small, but numerous. They are rated at 16v, which is a weak point of the inverter. I would've like to see 35v caps.
If the inverter isn't used for a long time, I recommend you slowly recharge the capacitors with a resistor or an incandescent bulb as a current limiter. If you don't, these weak capacitors might release the magic smoke, as they need to be reformed.
Just turn the crimped lugs the other way around, so they'll be "back to back" with each other. You will be able to put the plastic cover over the terminals.
Thanks for idea, have You tried that? I think it was natural thing to do and it not fit that way - something was getting in way like wire - I have it on site so it's hard for me to confirm.
I know, that lug was to short - You can see this on video - when You rotate it part that is joining wire (crimp point) it touching that plastic insulation on terminal so it was on angle. That's why it was not an option.
@@ElectronicNoobBlogI own the same inverter, my cables are cut exactly at the same length.
I zip tied them together so the lugs will always be correctly aligned "back to back".
I recommend you replace the cables with better quality ones. I tested the inverter with approximately 100a load (1150w from a microwave) and the cables it came with got pretty warm.
I doubt those cables could handle the full 2000w of the inverter without melting and starting a fire.
@catalinciceu6279 You are right - I've got the very same iverter and I've got the cables aligned back-to-back with no sign of problem. Also I think that the cables are designed well enough to handle that 200 AMPs needed for full load.
@@bnwlf Had a look inside the inverter and saw that the positive and negative bus bars were not soldered properly (some of them were detached from their soldering points) due to poor quality control.
I had to disassemble the inverter to solder them back correctly, because I've noticed the defect past the return period.
The inverter still worked as it is, so the store that I bought it from wouldn't warranty it.
The negative bus bar was poorly soldered to one point to the PCB (instead of 3) and the positive only to 2, so sending 160A through a thin strip of copper from the PCB to the transformers and the other components was way to extreme.
I've beefed up the connections and now there is no problem.
Still, the overall quality of this inverter has gone down compared to the past revisions. I've searched disassembly videos of this inverter and they were much better built, and didn't have those stupid bus bars inside of them.
If you look at the Green Cell official UA-cam channel, you'll see a video tutorial on how to replace the fuses on the inverter. The video is featuring their latest inverter (with an LCD display) so you can have a look at the internal components. It's not different than my older model (INV 11), except the LCD screen, all the internal components all exactly the same. Same 12 input and 4 output mosfets, and same stupid bus bars.
Here is the video from Green Cell: ua-cam.com/video/5m-WcCyfhKA/v-deo.htmlsi=qXem0mTD7hRXQO7M
Overall it's decently built, but personally, I can't recommend this inverter due to the stupid bus bar design and poor quality control.
Thank you for your impressions on this Inverter. I got one too and in addition to your remarks I encounter a strange behavior of the LCD Colordisdplay at front. The Load measurement remains whatsoever at 0 Watts and the Display itself goes OFF after about 2 min of operation. Has this to be like that? Didn't find anything appropriate in the instruction manual.
You could have turned the cables, then they would fit perfectly when paralell. :)
I can't confirm that since I already have it mounted and I crimp own welding cables. But You might be true.
you cant put the cover on the Wires Connectors because you need to insert one Wire on one side and the other one to the Other side and not Both at the same site
I have a question, i have a small garage with 12V ceiling lamp, usually i have to use special 12V bulb, is it possible to use inverter like this or not?
Something with training need to take look at it - on many places You will find 12V AC or DC with half wave rectifier to prevent people stealing electricity and this is not something that You want feed into any inverter - also lightning circiut will be very limited in current so that kind of inverter would be overkill.
Nice ❤❤❤
Thanks 🤗
Have you got a link for the inverter?
dude, just by cheap chineese wattmeter instead of this wireless tester
Is it worth it?
The inverter is good value for the price, but the build quality is mediocre.
But again, for the price it's decent.
I've written a long comment about it on this video if you want to check it out.
@@Catalin_C97 i Will use on a truck so is fine
@@igorgomes7922 Make sure the inverter has proper ventilation and air intake.
I see many truckers and RV'ers stick an inverter into an enclosed area and complain about their inverters failing rapidly.
Under heavy load the inverter produces a lot of heat and needs to cool off. You don't want to stick it in a cupboard and have the fans recirculate the same air over and over again. That air will get hotter and hotter and will reduce the lifespan of the inverter.
Also, think about vibration isolation. Heavy components such as inductors and transformers can get dislodged from the PCB under heavy vibration.
@@Catalin_C97 thx alot mate for helping out! 🤌