I don't know why I find these videos addictive, but I do. I rather think it is because it is always a pleasure to watch someone taking pains to do things properly. And Charlie comes across as such a calm, confident sort of bloke.
Grt channel. Easy to forget on the full size track contractors rarely clean up the ballast overspill... On a lot of track the ballast completely hides the sleepers.
I am going to die of old age before I take the pain to go to that much detail to paint the ties (sleepers) and rails. To each his own, I admire your patients.
Came back to this video to help with thinking about track painting for my n gauge layout. Airbrushing is a new thing for me, so more research will be done. The paint choices are bewildering, as well. Thanks again, Charlie, for giving me further food for thought!👍
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thank you. Colour selection is crucial. I’m a couple of months away from having to commence, so further experimenting and researching needed😉
You are a great model Railroader and very professional, I am from the USA and you have sparked my interest the way that you explain and do your work! I have been a Model Railroader for over 30 yrs. I will watch your technique from now on. Take care.
Charlie, why oh why did I not watch this video two years ago! Maybe throw away what I have done and start again now. Great tutorials, keep them coming. Thanks.
Hi Charlie, I notice that you cover the point blades with blue tack to stop the paint coating the contact surfaces. If I am using electrofrog points and changing the frog polarity with a relay, do I need to protect the contact surfaces - or am I missing something? Thanks, Chris
Spent all Sunday afternoon brush painting rust on rails. A pain, only has to be done once but great satisfaction when I cleaned the rail head and it looked pretty good. I painted it with some £1.49 rustic brown artists acrylic from B&M Bargains with a little orange paint and rust pigment in.
Just about ready to start laying my track. So not only very good video but timely and hopefully will help me make a half decent layout. Thanks for your time making these videos.
Really good to see how you do it. My method is almost the same but it is good to see an experienced modeler doing it, it gives me a bit of confidence. Loved the paint wheel, looking into it now. Thanks Charlie. Barry.Devon
Hi Charlie, When I fasten track down to sub roadbed, I use Liquid nails for Foam Prohects in a calking gun. A small smear on my foam base nicely holds the foam roadbed down almost immediately. Now this smear has formed a rubbery film. Now I place the track down with small l1 inch brown nails and press them in with my fingers. They go thru the smear very nicely and really hold it down. The beauty is that you can easily pull the nails back up with your fingers and move the rail around. Bob
Very nice video! Thank you for taking the time to make it. One thing to do after ballasting the track is to use your airbrush and spray (more of a mist, actually) a line of oily black down the center of the track, over the ballast and all. Locomotives are like automobiles, they are constantly dripping something!
Hi Flyboy. I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Yes the final coat of paint has yet to be applied but very light in the countryside and heavier in the station areas. Regards Charlie
Great video Charlie. I hate those little pimples on the Tie Bar as well! I am currently carrying out a full conversion to about 30 Peco N Gauge Code 55 points! This will include Central Tie Bar Seep Point motor operation, Dropper wire link between Stock/Switch rails, Cut (Isolated) Frog Vee and complete removal of the Peco Point Motor Plate Webs (Including Pimples!!).. Not much to do then!! lol. This is for my version of Ross-on-Wye Station. Keep up the good work, looking forward to the next video. ... Cheers Les.
Hi Les, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. It sounds like you have your work cut out for the next few weeks. Good luck with your project. Regards Charlie
Another excellent video Charlie, many thanks. One of the big advantages of the bottle type airbrush is you can buy additional bottles cheaply. You can mix a colour and simply leave it in the bottle, suitably marked and sealed with bluetack or something. I love the little bottle with the wheel, what a great idea :) Ian
Hi Ian, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Yes having the bottle type airbrush makes it so much easier to switch paints without a deep clean. Regards Charlie
From a guy who's airbrushed for about 36 years (tshirts, automotive, murals, aircraft) get yourself a small pancake compressor at hardware store (like the sort used for nail guns and air staplers and such) and then use a separate regulator i control the pressure coming out the gun. Cheaper and more stable airflo. I enjoy the channel....I'm a novice modeler but master airbrushed so just offering a tip.
I once used one of the wife`s bedding sheets to protect my backdrop from airbrush overspray ,worked quite well in my opinion I am now a bachelor ,which also worked out quite well in my opinion...LOL I did just discover your fine videos/tutorials and find them most interesting and very informative ,very well done sir !I`ve never seen that little device for painting tracks, would that work for N scale? As it is now, I just use a small paint brush ,which works very well and looks great,but time consuming(this must be done,as nothing worse than seeing that shiny nickel silver glaring out from the ballast.
Excellent as usual Charlie. Im a professional drone pilot, editing all my own footage. I know the time and effort involved in working on something fit for showing. A lot of work required from you but very much appreciated by all the peeps who watch you're fantastic videos. Just waiting on a change in the weather here in NI. Then Ill be able to erect my 2nd hand steel shed, 30ft x 20ft. Half of which will be my layout that has been in planning for a very long time. Retired from the sea Ill have plenty of time to get it just right. Watching your efforts has really spurred me on to get my finger out. Thank you very much
Well we really are into coincidences. I too have a professional drone licence (and the rip off insurance to go with it). Furthermore, I’m a retired sailor, how bazaar! Good luck with your layout and shed building. Regards Charlie
We need more realist videos like this, not just people showing off their dcc sound locos! this is stuff that REALLY matters for realism, i didnt even know you could buy that bottle with brush on the end, what an epic idea, im defo going to do this with my peco N gauge setrack, also chadwick yes get yourself a tin of servisol super10 im an electrical engineer and use this stuff near on daily, the contact from the rails to the wheels will be massively improved, it also serves the purpose of cleaning the pickups 100% properly. also absolutely epic for motor brushes and such.
I have only used this wheel/bottle painter on 00 gauge. I’m unsure whether it will be suitable for N. I will certainly buy a bottle of Super 10. I’m so pleased that you enjoy my videos, is comments like yours that make worthwhile. Regards Charlie
No thank you! ill be browsing your channel for more sensible stuff like this, ive been looking for ages for a channel like this that makes sense and has been demonstrated properly, that brush alone has saved me probably 8 hours of painting haha!
Woodland Scenics (and probably others) sell a track weathering pen which might be easier to use at N scale, though the colour choice is a little limited.
I’d be doing these mods before I install my points , it prevents getting overspill onto other track and having to clean up . I’ve made my self a cutting box out of an old shoe box that catches all dust and cuttings . Either way as with all modeling it’s up the individual
When I am spray painting indoors I use an electric blower with long clothes dryer hose connected that I stick out of a window. Clears the air nicely. i
Hi Charlie, I appreciate the quick response to my question and I thank you for the information. I've got a list of stuff I need to buy so I'll be getting one of these paint rollers real soon or as soon as the wife says I can. Anyway, thanks again for the info and the video. Bill G. Linwood Kansas, USA
Nice video Charlie, big difference with the track weathered. I think an airbrush is the way to go with track painting but that's just my preference. Michael
Hi Michael, Yes airbrushing does make it easier if if course you can make it a regular tool that you use, and not just a one off use. I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Regards Charlie
I've never seen that rail painter wheel work so well. Great video as usual. I did notice a wayward blob of solder on the outside of the ballasted track. Not like you Charlie. Geoff. W.
Hi Charlie I think the way in which you do your video's just makes you want to keep watching, this was another great video and I love the little bottle with the tiny roller on the end for rusting your track takes a lot of the hard work away, I think I will be getting one . Could you send me a link for your other channel, and thanks for sharing with us. Regards George...
Hi George, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. I’ll put the link in a future video if you missed it in the last one. It should come up in a banner as I talk about it. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, Great video, I agree about track pins.. I have only used them on my fiddleyard so it's easy to change if I want, All my scenic area has the track glued down (I use copydex myself) I think peco is the best for rtr track really, Especially with the new bullhead stuff, Sooner or later they will have the range to cover all era's. I am using code 75 in the fiddleyard and bullhead for the scenic side which is currently all handbuilt. Code 100 certainly provides the best solution for rigidity and the better running of older stock. I like that rail painter but the alternative option is to mask off all the sleepers and then airbrush the sides but that is much more of a pain.. I won't tell you how I know that lol! Cheers, Michael
Hi Michael, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Track painting is a necessary evil, a bit like ballasting! Good luck with your project. Regards Charlie
It's funny watching your videos Charlie... because I do pretty much what you do already... so sometimes I feel like I'm watching myself 25 years into the future!! I do pretty all the things you mention in this video, soldering droppers to the underside of the track, glueing track down instead of pinning it, cutting off the pull tabs on points, spraying track before ballasting, etc. Differences are that I use code 75 track (but mine is a home layout) and spread out the sleepers to a more prototypical spacing. As regards the airbrushing thinner... have a look out for 99% Isopropanol Alcohol... 'IPA'. When you airbrush, you need to thin the paint down so it flows through the airbrush without clogging it up, but not so thin that it 'splatters' against the thing being painted. IPA is pefect because it evaporates quickly, so when mixed to the skimmed milk consistancy, you'll only have the paint hitting the model becvause the paint has evaporated. IPA is also useful for removing numbers/names on locos, as you can see I did here: ua-cam.com/video/fkzQ9gsxklE/v-deo.html It's also perfect for stripping models if you're doing a full repaint. Get a spaghetti tube with a seal-able lid, place your model in it, fill the tube with IPA and pour a small cup of water in it. Neat, the 99% IPA will take ages to work on the model... drop a bit of water in it and it drops to about 95% which will activate it. Leave it in for an hour or two and give it a scrub with a toothbrush to get the top layers of paint and any tampo-printed transfers off it... leave it for another hour or two and more scrubbing with the toothbrush will remove the rest. Don't worry about leaving it in too long... the times I gave above are about the shortest time to get the paint off... but I've left models to soak all day without harming the model in any way. Also, IPA won't attack glazing either, so you can place the bodyshell with the glazing still attached... which serves an even better purpose... ...the IPA softens the glue used to secure the glazing in place... glazing that could be cracked if you tried to remove it. Really enjoying your videos Charlie! Dave
Hi Charlie, well I wish I'd seen your videos before I had started. Lol! You would be horrified at my track work efforts. Very informative as always and as usual a lot learnt. Again, thanks for taking the time to make these how to videos. Cheers Jerry
Thanks for the demo with the rail painter. I've been wondering how well they performed; its use is coming up on the schedule and, thanks, I can begin with confidence. Thanks.
I assume that I as it is acrylic, I can use a very fine paint brushes for weathering the track? Also if using paint brushes (if possible) do I do it before I ballast the track on the foam sheet?
I used the Rusty Rails painter. It did go on pretty good. However the cheap acrylic paint peels over the years and gums up your flanges and switch points. Ruined about $700 of Unitrack. Next time I would use the Paint Pens from Weathering Colors or Woodland Scenic.
Good track work technique you have there. I use Peco code 83 on my American layout ( you could run my channel if you like!). The only thing I did differentmy was to use a small pair of snips to remove the "lump" on the tie bar and I filled the holes for the point motors with modelling filler. Keith
Hi Charlie! I really appreciate all of the top quality videos you put out. Well done indeed! I really like the way you work with the full cork sheets, just removing the unwanted bits later.... I was curious as to where you source your cork sheets from, as I’d very much like to give that method a go myself?
Another lesson learned Charlie, I have gone through lots of track testing and making sure its all as I want it, I have however started some ballasting but hold on, time to get some sleeper grime for my airbrush and rust for the track. Where do I ghet one of those track brushes on a bottle I ask. If I get one of these I may even become a Charlie Bishop star pupil he he. regards, Geoff.
Great video, can I ask where you could get a ready made paint wheel with jar like the one used in this video? Or it a diy only job? If so could I have a list of the parts needed please thanks
Charlie, please, please, let me know where you got that little gem of a paint roller pot thingy from. It looks brilliant and 'just the ticket'. Hope you get to see this comment as is it a long time since you did this vid.
Do you isolate the crossing frog and have a changeover switch for polarity? You said you were using tortoise motors, they should have built in changeover switches. This would alleviate the need to worry to much about masking your switch rails. It also stops shorts and makes your locos run smoothly without breaks in current. I have found over the years with Peco points that the tiny metal contacts that make the connection between the stock rails and blades wear out easily and are prone to damage, rendering the point useless. Its more work but well worth it. It is essential on home made and kit built points.
Appologies Charlie, just watched another of your videos that explains that you do modify your track in the same way I build my pointwork. Great tips keep them coming.
Great video Charlie, I'm almost at the track painting stage so nice to see how you do it. I will be removing the point knobs etc too as it improves the look of the track a lot. Can I ask where you got the little wheel and bottle for painting from. Regards Paul
Hi Charlie, Great to watch, nice little gadget you used after the spraying of the track sleepers, then you used the little glass jar to rust the rails which was a really good little tool, What is the name of that tool and where would i likely to find one, and was that just powder rust in the jar to give your track that look or did you add thinners to it of any kind... 👍 as always Charlie. Thanks for you little Hints and Tips. 👍
Hi. I've been trying to look up under the description the bottle with the padded wheel to apply paint to side of rail. Can't find it. Please help. Many thanks
Hi Charlie Fell over your channel by accident & have been enjoying them...especially the backscene episode - really cracked me up. On your improving track video you put in a link to the track painter you used. I've been on Osborn models website but there's no track painter like yours; they do advertise a Woodlands Scenics job which is similar to a felt tip pen! Do you know who manufactures the roller type you possess?
Hi Charlie (Chadwick TMD) I would like to Get one of those jars with the Nozzle and wheel similar to the one you are using to paint the sides of the track but I don't know where to get one? Do you know where I can get one?
@@ChadwickModelRailwayOK thanks. My Layout is a small Heritage railway in based in Suffolk and the Railway is Called The Battlefield and Mangapps Valley Light Military Railway and it is a railway that survived from being almost Abandoned and the tracks being ripped out by BR and the line is still running despite almost going Bankrupt and the line is Struggling for money but one day the railway Plans to have 20 stations and 8 halts so in total 28 stops but once The line is in a bigger place than its current location which is my bedroom then I will be able to extend the line to all 28 stops. Also Keep up the informative and inspiring videos Cheers.Lewis
Charlie, I stumbled on to your videos and like everyone else, Love Them! You do a great job of explaining but not rambling on. Way to many ramble on turning a five minute video into twenty. Your wheel/bottle painter caught my attention as it did for many others. I think I looked at all your replies, (And I can't believe you respond to every comment. WOW!) but I may have missed it but where did you get that painter? Thanks for the great videos. At some point I am going to have to venture to your other web sites. Gary
Hi Gary, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed my videos. The painter is from Osborn’s Models and called a rusty rails painter. There is a link in the “Show More” tab but you may not be able to see if you’re viewing in a mobile phone. Please don’t forget to subscribe. Regards Charlie
Hi Tom, I’ve never had a problem using this method but the points have been modified to allow better conductivity to the switch blades. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie you say you use evo stik yo fix track but what do you use to fix the cork base cover. I'm just about to lay a new baseboard down and was going to cover the whole board in cook?
Thanks for showing this, Charlie. Obviously not your first modified points, but doing a double slip first made me cringe! Do you need to switch the points before cutting off the lumps so the tie bars don’t protrude?
Hi Tom, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Yes taking a cutting disc to a double slip is interesting. My modifications aren’t finished yet but rest assured all the excess plastic will go. Regards Charlie
Another very informative video, many thanks for producing & posting them. One question that I may have missed from your earlier videos, how do you go about fitting the fishplates, both insulated & non-insulated?
Hi Charlie, my question really relates to the clearance between the rail & the sleeper/chairs. I find it impossible to fit a metal fishplate without cutting a clearance into the plastic, which isn't easy to do neatly. With a softer plastic insulating fishplate presumably it would require an even larger gap. I wondered if you have a better method, or should I admit defeat and cut away the whole sleeper?
Back watching or rewatching some vids. I always wondered does your wife watch your vids? I hope not... As she'll find out the things you borrow from her or the laundry cubbard lol
Another top tutorial Charlie.....I hope your wife doesn’t see these videos....she’ll go nuts knowing you’re using the bedding lol. A bit late but re the seams on the backscene.....did you use a wallpaper seam roller? You may have gotten a perfect join - anyway still looks awesome and no-one ever sees or notices the small mistakes until you mention them!
Hi Allan, Good question. I used a Peco track rubber but take care around the point switch blades and also not to remove the paint on the check rails. Regards Charlie
Charlie - what would you recommend to allow for expansion /contraction of track in a location where the temperature is not readily controllable such as in a garage, shed or loft space. Enjoyed the video.
Hi PLP, This is something that has never affected me personally. However, while the track will expand and contract, surely the timber baseboards will too. I’d be a little generous with gaps on the fish plates and I certainly wouldn’t solder tracks together. Regards Charlie
Just FYI, there are other brands of track, too. I prefer Peco, myself :-) But there's also Shinohara, Walthers, Micro Engineering, and Atlas. Atlas is the American equivalent to Hornby, but I mentioned it for completeness. The others that I mentioned are rather high quality, as is Peco.
Hi. Great video. I have an R965 controller and am about to start building a railway. Can I use the same method of track painting without it affecting the power flow on rails? Many thanks.
No joke youve showed me things here didnt know you could do! very good video. i would have spent HOURS painting the rails without anywhere near as good results! excellent.
One question. Your points appear to be Electrofrogs. I assume you modified them re: the wiring underneath. Why do you then feel the need to protect the point blades from paint as the stock and closure rails are electrically connected underneath?
Hi John , I paint whatever I can reach as it may reveal my short cuts when I run a video camera around on a truck. I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
I don't know why I find these videos addictive, but I do. I rather think it is because it is always a pleasure to watch someone taking pains to do things properly. And Charlie comes across as such a calm, confident sort of bloke.
Nick, you far far too kind.
I’m so pleased that you enjoy my videos.
Regards Charlie
It’s his Pusser Professionalisms coming through , Well done Charlie.
Grt channel. Easy to forget on the full size track contractors rarely clean up the ballast overspill... On a lot of track the ballast completely hides the sleepers.
An excellent observation mate. Regards, Charlie
I am going to die of old age before I take the pain to go to that much detail to paint the ties (sleepers) and rails. To each his own, I admire your patients.
I’ve now found a felt tip pen that you can use. Regards, Charlie
Thank you for a most instructional video. Very helpful, especially the reminders about the order to do things in. 😊
Thanks B909, I’m so pleased that you found it useful. Regards Charlie
Came back to this video to help with thinking about track painting for my n gauge layout. Airbrushing is a new thing for me, so more research will be done. The paint choices are bewildering, as well. Thanks again, Charlie, for giving me further food for thought!👍
Please ensure that your paint choice is not too red. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thank you. Colour selection is crucial. I’m a couple of months away from having to commence, so further experimenting and researching needed😉
Very thoughtful comments which show your experience is model railroading. Good videos for everyone, include the "know it all's".
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Andrew.
You are a great model Railroader and very professional, I am from the USA and you have sparked my interest the way that you explain and do your work! I have been a Model Railroader for over 30 yrs. I will watch your technique from now on.
Take care.
Thanks James, it’s comments such as yours that make it worthwhile.
Another super production pact with useful and helpful information.....highly recommended!
I’m so pleased that you found the video useful and hopefully you have subscribed too.
Best wishes for 2019.
Yet another superb video. I had always wondered how point work should be masked prior to painting so many thanks for explaining how this is done...
Hi Shaun,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video.
Regards Charlie
A thank you for all the how to - tutorials....I found them most helpful and interesting....
Thanks CJ, I’m so pleased that you enjoy them.
Good luck with your layout, regards Charlie
Charlie, why oh why did I not watch this video two years ago! Maybe throw away what I have done and start again now. Great tutorials, keep them coming. Thanks.
Thanks Chris, I’m so pleased that you enjoy the channel,
Hi Charlie, I notice that you cover the point blades with blue tack to stop the paint coating the contact surfaces. If I am using electrofrog points and changing the frog polarity with a relay, do I need to protect the contact surfaces - or am I missing something? Thanks, Chris
Power still comes across those blades so do air on the side of caution Chris.
Interesting Info, and some Great Ideas here, got my mind thinking . . . Thank you for your time and energies here.
Thanks Douglas, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Spent all Sunday afternoon brush painting rust on rails. A pain, only has to be done once but great satisfaction when I cleaned the rail head and it looked pretty good. I painted it with some £1.49 rustic brown artists acrylic from B&M Bargains with a little orange paint and rust pigment in.
I’m so pleased that your layout is coming along too.
Just about ready to start laying my track. So not only very good video but timely and hopefully will help me make a half decent layout. Thanks for your time making these videos.
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Steve. Regards Charlie
Really good to see how you do it. My method is almost the same but it is good to see an experienced modeler doing it, it gives me a bit of confidence. Loved the paint wheel, looking into it now. Thanks Charlie.
Barry.Devon
Hi Barry,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Good luck with your project.
Regards Charlie
Wow great videos and well produced. I wish these videos were here 5 years ago when I was trying to figure out how to do my N gauge layout.
Hi RW,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed them.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie,
When I fasten track down to sub roadbed, I use Liquid nails for Foam Prohects in a calking gun.
A small smear on my foam base nicely holds the foam roadbed down almost immediately. Now this smear has formed a rubbery film. Now I place the track down with small l1 inch brown nails and press them in with my fingers. They go thru the smear very nicely and really hold it down. The beauty is that you can easily pull the nails back up with your fingers and move the rail around. Bob
Great tip Bob. Regards Charlie
Another awesome video thanks for showing us!!😃😃
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Regards Charlie
Very nice video! Thank you for taking the time to make it. One thing to do after ballasting the track is to use your airbrush and spray (more of a mist, actually) a line of oily black down the center of the track, over the ballast and all. Locomotives are like automobiles, they are constantly dripping something!
Hi Flyboy.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video.
Yes the final coat of paint has yet to be applied but very light in the countryside and heavier in the station areas.
Regards Charlie
Just bought the rail painting kit. Thanks for the tip.
Barry.Devon
Good luck with it Barry. It certainly saved me some time once you get the mix right. Regards Charlie
Great video Charlie. I hate those little pimples on the Tie Bar as well! I am currently carrying out a full conversion to about 30 Peco N Gauge Code 55 points! This will include Central Tie Bar Seep Point motor operation, Dropper wire link between Stock/Switch rails, Cut (Isolated) Frog Vee and complete removal of the Peco Point Motor Plate Webs (Including Pimples!!).. Not much to do then!! lol. This is for my version of Ross-on-Wye Station. Keep up the good work, looking forward to the next video. ... Cheers Les.
Hi Les,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video.
It sounds like you have your work cut out for the next few weeks.
Good luck with your project.
Regards Charlie
Morning Charlie hope your ok. Just caught up with your latest video on track 😊 Another great tutorial things are making good progress. Thanks Stevie.
Hi Steve, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Next Friday’s is ready to go too. Regards Charlie
Nice to see you using double slips, I use them, but am amazed at how many modellers frown upon the use of them.
Hi Sam, I do like double slips too.
However, at £44 it’s a little daunting for many.
Regards Charlie
Another excellent video Charlie, many thanks. One of the big advantages of the bottle type airbrush is you can buy additional bottles cheaply. You can mix a colour and simply leave it in the bottle, suitably marked and sealed with bluetack or something. I love the little bottle with the wheel, what a great idea :) Ian
Hi Ian,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video.
Yes having the bottle type airbrush makes it so much easier to switch paints without a deep clean.
Regards Charlie
From a guy who's airbrushed for about 36 years (tshirts, automotive, murals, aircraft) get yourself a small pancake compressor at hardware store (like the sort used for nail guns and air staplers and such) and then use a separate regulator i control the pressure coming out the gun. Cheaper and more stable airflo. I enjoy the channel....I'm a novice modeler but master airbrushed so just offering a tip.
Thanks NAG, I’ll certainly check it out.
Enjoyed your video and I have made notes of your various tips. Cheers Greg
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Greg. Regards Charlie
I once used one of the wife`s bedding sheets to protect my backdrop from airbrush overspray ,worked quite well in my opinion
I am now a bachelor ,which also worked out quite well in my opinion...LOL
I did just discover your fine videos/tutorials and find them most interesting and very informative ,very well done sir !I`ve never seen that little device for painting tracks, would that work for N scale? As it is now, I just use a small paint brush ,which works very well and looks great,but time consuming(this must be done,as nothing worse than seeing that shiny nickel silver glaring out from the ballast.
Hi Paul,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video.
I would stick with the brush for N Gauge track.
Good luck with your project.
Regards Charlie
Great video Charlie! Thanks for sharing!
You’re very welcome .
Another great video. Thank you.
Thanks Kim regards Charlie
Excellent as usual Charlie. Im a professional drone pilot, editing all my own footage. I know the time and effort involved in working on something fit for showing. A lot of work required from you but very much appreciated by all the peeps who watch you're fantastic videos. Just waiting on a change in the weather here in NI. Then Ill be able to erect my 2nd hand steel shed, 30ft x 20ft. Half of which will be my layout that has been in planning for a very long time. Retired from the sea Ill have plenty of time to get it just right. Watching your efforts has really spurred me on to get my finger out. Thank you very much
Well we really are into coincidences.
I too have a professional drone licence (and the rip off insurance to go with it).
Furthermore, I’m a retired sailor, how bazaar!
Good luck with your layout and shed building.
Regards Charlie
Thanks again Charlie, another good tip video, looks so realistic.
I’m glad to keep your interest Richard. Regards Charlie
I use Peco narrow gauge track 9mm for my Austrian model railroad in 1:87 scale . It's the Murtalbahn . And I use a brush for rust the rail .
Thanks Bert and good luck with your layout.
We need more realist videos like this, not just people showing off their dcc sound locos! this is stuff that REALLY matters for realism, i didnt even know you could buy that bottle with brush on the end, what an epic idea, im defo going to do this with my peco N gauge setrack, also chadwick yes get yourself a tin of servisol super10 im an electrical engineer and use this stuff near on daily, the contact from the rails to the wheels will be massively improved, it also serves the purpose of cleaning the pickups 100% properly. also absolutely epic for motor brushes and such.
I have only used this wheel/bottle painter on 00 gauge. I’m unsure whether it will be suitable for N.
I will certainly buy a bottle of Super 10.
I’m so pleased that you enjoy my videos, is comments like yours that make worthwhile.
Regards Charlie
No thank you! ill be browsing your channel for more sensible stuff like this, ive been looking for ages for a channel like this that makes sense and has been demonstrated properly, that brush alone has saved me probably 8 hours of painting haha!
Woodland Scenics (and probably others) sell a track weathering pen which might be easier to use at N scale, though the colour choice is a little limited.
I’d be doing these mods before I install my points , it prevents getting overspill onto other track and having to clean up .
I’ve made my self a cutting box out of an old shoe box that catches all dust and cuttings .
Either way as with all modeling it’s up the individual
Thanks Kevin, for sharing your ideas. Regards, Charlie.
When I am spray painting indoors I use an electric blower with long clothes dryer hose connected that I stick out of a window. Clears the air nicely.
i
Sounds like a good plan
Hi Charlie, I appreciate the quick response to my question and I thank you for the information. I've got a list of
stuff I need to buy so I'll be getting one of these paint rollers real soon or as soon as the wife says I can. Anyway,
thanks again for the info and the video. Bill G. Linwood Kansas, USA
You’re welcome Bill.
Nice video Charlie, big difference with the track weathered. I think an airbrush is the way to go with track painting but that's just my preference.
Michael
Hi Michael,
Yes airbrushing does make it easier if if course you can make it a regular tool that you use, and not just a one off use.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video.
Regards Charlie
Nice video tutorial, bloke. Enjoy your videos quite a bit. Crack on, mate!
W Rusty Lane in eastern Tennessee (Witherington Place Railroad)
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed them.
Regards Charlie
I've never seen that rail painter wheel work so well. Great video as usual. I did notice a wayward blob of solder on the outside of the ballasted track. Not like you Charlie. Geoff. W.
Hi Geoff, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
The solder will soon be gone!
Regards Charlie
Great tips and trick on track work, thanks for the video
Thanks Joe, I’m so pleased that you found it useful
Thank you again for an another instructive video!!! Cheers, Onno.
Glad that you are still with me Onno.
Regards Charlie
As long as you make these videos ........ :-)
Hi Charlie I think the way in which you do your video's just makes you want to keep watching, this was another great video and I love the little bottle with the tiny roller on the end for rusting your track takes a lot of the hard work away, I think I will be getting one . Could you send me a link for your other channel, and thanks for sharing with us. Regards George...
Hi George, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. I’ll put the link in a future video if you missed it in the last one. It should come up in a banner as I talk about it. Regards Charlie
Thank you. Very helpful.
Thanks Donald.
The bottle with the little wheel sure works great coloring the sides of the rails. Who makes it and is it still available? THANK YOU..
The link is in the “show more” but I don’t think that it is Frank.
excellent tutorial video subscribed right away
Thanks Digger, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
Wonderful little small wheel and bottle for rusting the tracks. Beats painting with a brush. Who sells this, and what is it called?
Thanks Andrew, the details are in the “show more” tab.
Hi Charlie, as always - a great video. it may be an age thing (mine not yours) but I don't see the link to that little rail painter wheel.......
Yes, sadly, that wheel is no longer manufactured. Regards, Charlie
Great video!, Really detailed.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it.Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie,
Great video, I agree about track pins.. I have only used them on my fiddleyard so it's easy to change if I want, All my scenic area has the track glued down (I use copydex myself) I think peco is the best for rtr track really, Especially with the new bullhead stuff, Sooner or later they will have the range to cover all era's. I am using code 75 in the fiddleyard and bullhead for the scenic side which is currently all handbuilt. Code 100 certainly provides the best solution for rigidity and the better running of older stock. I like that rail painter but the alternative option is to mask off all the sleepers and then airbrush the sides but that is much more of a pain.. I won't tell you how I know that lol! Cheers, Michael
Hi Michael,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Track painting is a necessary evil, a bit like ballasting!
Good luck with your project.
Regards Charlie
Superb! Many thanks....
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Shaun.
It's funny watching your videos Charlie... because I do pretty much what you do already... so sometimes I feel like I'm watching myself 25 years into the future!!
I do pretty all the things you mention in this video, soldering droppers to the underside of the track, glueing track down instead of pinning it, cutting off the pull tabs on points, spraying track before ballasting, etc.
Differences are that I use code 75 track (but mine is a home layout) and spread out the sleepers to a more prototypical spacing.
As regards the airbrushing thinner... have a look out for 99% Isopropanol Alcohol... 'IPA'.
When you airbrush, you need to thin the paint down so it flows through the airbrush without clogging it up, but not so thin that it 'splatters' against the thing being painted.
IPA is pefect because it evaporates quickly, so when mixed to the skimmed milk consistancy, you'll only have the paint hitting the model becvause the paint has evaporated.
IPA is also useful for removing numbers/names on locos, as you can see I did here:
ua-cam.com/video/fkzQ9gsxklE/v-deo.html
It's also perfect for stripping models if you're doing a full repaint.
Get a spaghetti tube with a seal-able lid, place your model in it, fill the tube with IPA and pour a small cup of water in it.
Neat, the 99% IPA will take ages to work on the model... drop a bit of water in it and it drops to about 95% which will activate it.
Leave it in for an hour or two and give it a scrub with a toothbrush to get the top layers of paint and any tampo-printed transfers off it... leave it for another hour or two and more scrubbing with the toothbrush will remove the rest.
Don't worry about leaving it in too long... the times I gave above are about the shortest time to get the paint off... but I've left models to soak all day without harming the model in any way.
Also, IPA won't attack glazing either, so you can place the bodyshell with the glazing still attached... which serves an even better purpose...
...the IPA softens the glue used to secure the glazing in place... glazing that could be cracked if you tried to remove it.
Really enjoying your videos Charlie!
Dave
Hi Dave, you have made some fascinating comments and do hope that others will read them too. It’s great to have you onboard.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, well I wish I'd seen your videos before I had started. Lol! You would be horrified at my track work efforts. Very informative as always and as usual a lot learnt. Again, thanks for taking the time to make these how to videos. Cheers Jerry
Hi Jerry,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Regards Charlie
Thanks for the demo with the rail painter. I've been wondering how well they performed; its use is coming up on the schedule and, thanks, I can begin with confidence. Thanks.
I’m so pleased that you found the video useful Austin and hopefully you have subscribed too.
Like your narrative....very easy viewing and informative......regards fred ..ps thanks for your subscription
We support each other’s efforts Fred 😀
Regards Charlie
I assume that I as it is acrylic, I can use a very fine paint brushes for weathering the track? Also if using paint brushes (if possible) do I do it before I ballast the track on the foam sheet?
Yes there are loads of different ways of doing this and often I change my methods too.
Regards Charlie
I used the Rusty Rails painter. It did go on pretty good. However the cheap acrylic paint peels over the years and gums up your flanges and switch points. Ruined about $700 of Unitrack. Next time I would use the Paint Pens from Weathering Colors or Woodland Scenic.
Thanks mate sound advice and much appreciated.
Good track work technique you have there. I use Peco code 83 on my American layout ( you could run my channel if you like!). The only thing I did differentmy was to use a small pair of snips to remove the "lump" on the tie bar and I filled the holes for the point motors with modelling filler. Keith
Hi Kieth, I’m so glad that you enjoyed it. I’ve subbed back. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie! I really appreciate all of the top quality videos you put out. Well done indeed! I really like the way you work with the full cork sheets, just removing the unwanted bits later.... I was curious as to where you source your cork sheets from, as I’d very much like to give that method a go myself?
I’m pretty sure that I bought them on eBay CM.
Another brilliant video I do enjoy these
Great to hear your praise. Regards Charlie
when adding the rail paint where did you get the bottle with the wheel on it or did you make the bottle brilliant job
Sorry Paul, no one seems to make the little painter anymore. Regards Charlie
Another lesson learned Charlie, I have gone through lots of track testing and making sure its all as I want it, I have however started some ballasting but hold on, time to get some sleeper grime for my airbrush and rust for the track. Where do I ghet one of those track brushes on a bottle I ask. If I get one of these I may even become a Charlie Bishop star pupil he he. regards, Geoff.
Hi Geoff,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. See the Show More tab for the details.
Regards Charlie
Great video, can I ask where you could get a ready made paint wheel with jar like the one used in this video? Or it a diy only job? If so could I have a list of the parts needed please thanks
There is a link in the "Show more" tab.
I can’t find the link for the painting wheel - any help ?
Charlie, please, please, let me know where you got that little gem of a paint roller pot thingy from. It looks brilliant and 'just the ticket'. Hope you get to see this comment as is it a long time since you did this vid.
I’m sorry to tell you this Richards, but I’ve had a scour around and I don’t believe it’s any longer in production. Sorry, regards Charlie
Do you isolate the crossing frog and have a changeover switch for polarity? You said you were using tortoise motors, they should have built in changeover switches. This would alleviate the need to worry to much about masking your switch rails. It also stops shorts and makes your locos run smoothly without breaks in current. I have found over the years with Peco points that the tiny metal contacts that make the connection between the stock rails and blades wear out easily and are prone to damage, rendering the point useless. Its more work but well worth it. It is essential on home made and kit built points.
Appologies Charlie, just watched another of your videos that explains that you do modify your track in the same way I build my pointwork. Great tips keep them coming.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it it Nige and hopefully you’ve subscribed too.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Yes I have.
Do you have a source for the rail painting tool? Thanks for another wonderful video. Cheers
Sorry Gene, but it appears to be no longer available. Regards Charlie
Great video Charlie, I'm almost at the track painting stage so nice to see how you do it. I will be removing the point knobs etc too as it improves the look of the track a lot.
Can I ask where you got the little wheel and bottle for painting from.
Regards Paul
Hi Paul,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
I’ve added the painter to the “See More” tab.
Regards Charlie
Chadwick Model Railway
Thanks Charlie, the painter looks a nice tool, I've only seen them sold with paint included.
Chadwick Model Railway oo
Hi Charlie, Great to watch, nice little gadget you used after the spraying of the track sleepers, then you used the little glass jar to rust the rails which was a really good little tool, What is the name of that tool and where would i likely to find one, and was that just powder rust in the jar to give your track that look or did you add thinners to it of any kind... 👍 as always Charlie. Thanks for you little Hints and Tips. 👍
Hi Jamie, I have posted the details of the painting wheel, in the “See More” tab in the video. Glad that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
Great thank for the information Charlie, i’ll give that a go! the Joes Model Trains Rusty Rails Painter!
Hi there, thanxs a lot. What’s the brand of the divice with the paint container and brush?
Greetings from the Netherlands.
If it’s still available Peter, there should be a link in the “show more” tab.
Regards Charlie
Hi. I've been trying to look up under the description the bottle with the padded wheel to apply paint to side of rail. Can't find it. Please help. Many thanks
I’ve checked Les, but it would appear to have been discontinued sadly. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie
Fell over your channel by accident & have been enjoying them...especially the backscene episode - really cracked me up. On your improving track video you put in a link to the track painter you used. I've been on Osborn models website but there's no track painter like yours; they do advertise a Woodlands Scenics job which is similar to a felt tip pen! Do you know who manufactures the roller type you possess?
They must have stopped its manufacturer. The pens are good though Derek.
Hi Charlie, do you still have a link to where I can buy one of those track painting dispensers with the little wheel on them ?
Many thanks
Andy
Hi Andy, sadly you’re not the 1st to ask. I think they are no longer in production sadly. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway thanks for letting me know Charlie - hope you and your family have a wonderful new year 👍
Hi Charlie (Chadwick TMD) I would like to Get one of those jars with the Nozzle and wheel similar to the one you are using to paint the sides of the track but I don't know where to get one? Do you know where I can get one?
I’m sorry Lewis but they may now be out of production. Only Google may have the answer.
@@ChadwickModelRailwayOK thanks. My Layout is a small Heritage railway in based in Suffolk and the Railway is Called The Battlefield and Mangapps Valley Light Military Railway and it is a railway that survived from being almost Abandoned and the tracks being ripped out by BR and the line is still running despite almost going Bankrupt and the line is Struggling for money but one day the railway Plans to have 20 stations and 8 halts so in total 28 stops but once The line is in a bigger place than its current location which is my bedroom then I will be able to extend the line to all 28 stops. Also Keep up the informative and inspiring videos Cheers.Lewis
Interesting, Keep up the good work :)
I’ll certainly try. Regards Charlie
Charlie,
I stumbled on to your videos and like everyone else, Love Them! You do a great job of explaining but not rambling on. Way to many ramble on turning a five minute video into twenty.
Your wheel/bottle painter caught my attention as it did for many others. I think I looked at all your replies, (And I can't believe you respond to every comment. WOW!) but I may have missed it but where did you get that painter?
Thanks for the great videos. At some point I am going to have to venture to your other web sites.
Gary
Hi Gary,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed my videos.
The painter is from Osborn’s Models and called a rusty rails painter.
There is a link in the “Show More” tab but you may not be able to see if you’re viewing in a mobile phone.
Please don’t forget to subscribe.
Regards Charlie
Do you need to protect both blades on a set of points, or does the shut side have a close enough seal to protect the contacts?
Hi Tom, I’ve never had a problem using this method but the points have been modified to allow better conductivity to the switch blades. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie you say you use evo stik yo fix track but what do you use to fix the cork base cover. I'm just about to lay a new baseboard down and was going to cover the whole board in cook?
I would stick down the cork with thick PVA straight out of the tub.
Regards Charlie
Thanks for showing this, Charlie.
Obviously not your first modified points, but doing a double slip first made me cringe!
Do you need to switch the points before cutting off the lumps so the tie bars don’t protrude?
Hi Tom, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Yes taking a cutting disc to a double slip is interesting. My modifications aren’t finished yet but rest assured all the excess plastic will go. Regards Charlie
Another very informative video, many thanks for producing & posting them. One question that I may have missed from your earlier videos, how do you go about fitting the fishplates, both insulated & non-insulated?
Hi Peter,I'm so please that you enjoyed the video.Can you be a little more specific please regarding what you'd like to know?Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, my question really relates to the clearance between the rail & the sleeper/chairs. I find it impossible to fit a metal fishplate without cutting a clearance into the plastic, which isn't easy to do neatly. With a softer plastic insulating fishplate presumably it would require an even larger gap. I wondered if you have a better method, or should I admit defeat and cut away the whole sleeper?
Did you make the little bottle and felt wheel arrangement for the track painting device?
No and I believe that they are now out of production. There is a link in the video’s “Show More” tab.
Great video Charlie, the burning question now is where did you get that rail painting gadget from, awesome piece of kit
Yes i'm also interested, seemed to make very short work off it much quicker than a brush
Hi Mick,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
I’ve added the painter to the “See More” tab.
Regards Charlie
Hi Mathew,
I’ve added the painter to the “See More” tab.
Regards Charlie
+Chadwick Model Railway Late reply sorry
Thanks a lot!
Hi Charlie, im late to the party im afrid, could you please point me into the direction of the nifty wheel device for painting the rail sides? Thanks
Sorry RDR, I think it’s out of production. Regards, Charlie.
Any clues where I can purchase the rusty rail painter as the original supplier via the link says its no longer stocked. TIA
Sorry Nick, I can't find a new one either.
Back watching or rewatching some vids.
I always wondered does your wife watch your vids? I hope not... As she'll find out the things you borrow from her or the laundry cubbard lol
No Johnny, my good lady would view it as a punishment.
Another top tutorial Charlie.....I hope your wife doesn’t see these videos....she’ll go nuts knowing you’re using the bedding lol. A bit late but re the seams on the backscene.....did you use a wallpaper seam roller? You may have gotten a perfect join - anyway still looks awesome and no-one ever sees or notices the small mistakes until you mention them!
Hi Tase,
In all honesty it looks fine.
I’m so pleased that you’re sticking with this channel.
Regards Charlie
How did you clean the top of the rail after painting Charlie
Hi Allan,
Good question. I used a Peco track rubber but take care around the point switch blades and also not to remove the paint on the check rails. Regards Charlie
Charlie - what would you recommend to allow for expansion /contraction of track in a location where the temperature is not readily controllable such as in a garage, shed or loft space. Enjoyed the video.
Hi PLP,
This is something that has never affected me personally. However, while the track will expand and contract, surely the timber baseboards will too.
I’d be a little generous with gaps on the fish plates and I certainly wouldn’t solder tracks together.
Regards Charlie
Thank Charlie for the advice
Just FYI, there are other brands of track, too. I prefer Peco, myself :-) But there's also Shinohara, Walthers, Micro Engineering, and Atlas. Atlas is the American equivalent to Hornby, but I mentioned it for completeness. The others that I mentioned are rather high quality, as is Peco.
A fair point HG.
Hi Charlie. Loved the vid. I was just wondering: what was the equipment you used to paint the side of the rails and where/ how did you get it? Thanks.
I’m so sorry, but that bottle with the wheel, appears to be out of production. Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway OK,thanks. What is it? Do you know if there is an easy way to make something like it?
No I don’t think so Niyaz.
@@ChadwickModelRailway OK. Thanks anyway.
OK, Charlie,
Please make one turntable video with HO/OO scales. Thanks!
Gopal Daga/India
Sorry Gopal but I’m not having a turntable on my layout. There are lots of other UA-camrs who have one.
charlie where can i buy the little paint roller with the little jar on it thanks
Sorry Dave, I can’t seem to find them for sale anywhere. Regards, Charlie.
@@ChadwickModelRailway thanks anyway Charlie
How much would it cost including postage to Australia, the track rust bottle!!
Hi Richard, I’ve no idea.
In the “Show More” tab is the link to the shop.
I’m sure that they will post it.
Regards Charlie
Hi. Great video. I have an R965 controller and am about to start building a railway. Can I use the same method of track painting without it affecting the power flow on rails? Many thanks.
As long as the top of the rails are clean, then all should be well Les.
Best wishes for 2022.
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway many thanks. Your videos are so informative. I've not long come across them. They will help me a lot. Keep safe.
Best video on youtube, learned so much here thank you! do these rules apply to peco n gauge setrack as well?
Hi, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. I’m no N Gauge expert but I would have thought so.
Regards Charlie
No joke youve showed me things here didnt know you could do! very good video. i would have spent HOURS painting the rails without anywhere near as good results! excellent.
Will Peco code 100 match up to Atlas code 100? Thanks for your time and videos.
Sorry Jeff, I have no idea.
@@ChadwickModelRailway thank you
One question. Your points appear to be Electrofrogs. I assume you modified them re: the wiring underneath. Why do you then feel the need to protect the point blades from paint as the stock and closure rails are electrically connected underneath?
Because the viewer might be using insulfrog or non modified electrofrogs.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Ah, okay thanks!
Hi Charlie, When painting the side of the rail do you paint both sides or just the side you can see? Great video, thanks for sharing. Regards John.
Hi John ,
I paint whatever I can reach as it may reveal my short cuts when I run a video camera around on a truck.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Regards Charlie
Hi. How thick cork plate do you use under tracks? Thank you and best regards
I’ve used 2mm but now I’m changing to 3mm.
@@ChadwickModelRailway I have choice between 2 and 4mm. Are you changing to 3mm for better noise reduction?
Do you use droppers on every section of track and insulated fishplates everywhere?
Normally on each piece of track but insulated fishplates on point frogs and blocks for automation.
Great rail painting gadget Charlie, did you make it, or did you buy it?
Ther is a link in the decription VH.
Where did you get the rail painter thing please
Watch the video on a computer and the details are in the “See More” tab.
@@ChadwickModelRailway thank u but it didn't work
I’ll check it out.
Yes it does. It takes you to Osborn Models.