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Before You Buy Your Log Wizard Debarker
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- Опубліковано 6 січ 2021
- A dull blade produces wavy cuts and as I can personally attest, persisting in using a dull blade can also contribute to premature blade breakage. If you have a portable bandmill it’s all about preserving blade sharpness and blade life - and one of the best investments you can make IMO is the Log Wizard debarking head that can be fitted simply and easily to virtually any chainsaw.
For sheer ease of use with minimal fuss, I chose to mount mine onto one of Stihl’s latest offerings - their battery-operated MSA 220 C. Based on probably 40-50 debarking ‘runs’ at the time of this video, both the debarker and the Stihl MSA 200 C are performing admirably.
Norwood Canada: www.norwoodsawmills.com/en_ca/
Norwood: www.norwoodsawmills.com/
Woodmizer Canada: woodmizer.ca/en/
Woodmizer: woodmizer.com/
Milwaukee Tool: www.milwaukeetool.com/
Snap-on Tools: www.snapon.com/
Stihl Canada: en.stihl.ca/
Stihl: www.stihl.com/default.aspx
Makita Planer Blades: shorturl.at/fhkOY
Log Wizard Debarker: www.norwoodsawmills.com/en_ca...
#logwizard, #norwood, #portablemill, #portablesawmill, #woodmizer, #norwoodsawmill, #bandmill, #82Maple, #howardkettner, #milwaukeetool, #snapontools, #stihl, #woodmizeredger, #coralkettner
I had the same problem with my bar's nose sprocket being too wide. the chain was cutting a separate groove to the right of the planed surface. I had to buy a second 16 bar, narrower than the first one. I thought log wizard could hav saved me $60 by warning of this potential problem in their installation instructions.
Really good point! And yes - they (Log Wizard) could definitely have saved you that $60.
Thanks for tuning in!
Howard, would it be easier to debark the log before you load it onto the mill? With the log on the ground you can easily debark horizontally, no need to lift the saw and hold it up and you can roll the log over without the fear of hitting the mill
Thank you for commenting and being part of the journey.
The main reason that I typically debark the log once it is positioned on the mill is that one does not need to debark the entire log - only the part of the log where the blade will enter the log - to ensure that the dirt (which kills a sharp blade) is removed. One does not even need to debark the log where the blade will exit.
And - often I there is enough bend or otherwise in the raw log and I cannot identify the preferred positioning of the log to maximize the useful wood I can extract until I actually have the log resting on the bunks.
If I could go back in time, I'd be sure to get a sawmill will a built in debarker head. :)
I do believe you can order this kit with the correct , pre drilled bar , a bar guard and a chain with no cutters on it , it includes all the mounting hardware also.
Ohhhhh - good to know. Huge thanks for the info. At the time I purchased this one (two years ago) the head only was the only option offered by Norwood.
mr. kettner, would you mind quoting the serial number or model/product number of the narrow-nosed Oregon bar that allows you to use your log wizard efficiently on your stihl electric chainsaw? thanks!
I need to get one start off with a log cabin shop to practice then build a cabin at camp
Would love to see some videos of your journey in creating that log cabin shop. Sounds like an awesome idea.
I’m concerned about your lack of ear protection 😂🤗 thanks!
You and me both!
Thanks for tuning in.
This was early going with the sawmill, and I now am the proud owner of not only a pair if Stihl's finest hearing protection devices, but I also wear eye protection.
Way overdue on both counts.
Great reminder. Thanks for commenting.
Thank you!
Thank you for visiting!
Seems like it would be MUCH easier to debark the log before you put the log on the deck.
You are absolutely correct - for a total debark laying the log across a couple of brow logs would be the answer.
For sawmill purposes tho - all one needs to do is debark the entry point of the blade while one is making the cant - which typically means (depending on the size of the log) debarking a 4" - 6" strip of bark the length of the log, then flipping it 180 degrees and doing that once again. At that point one is pretty much past the bark - except on larger logs where there is a very quick 2 or 3" debark.
But wow - that bit of debarking sure saves the blades.
Thanks again for tuning in and being part of the journey!
I wouldn't mind kissing a planer good-bye nearly as much as I'd hate to kiss one hello, when a piece of it breaks off and flies at my face! Log Wizard looks like a good investment. I'm guessing you can still use the bar to cut wood, even with the holes drilled in it.
For sure - it will still cut probably 8" to 9" with the Log Wizard head on it. Available directly from Norwood. Love it.
Found a Mississauga rattler and nest in my log pile!
Whoa - crazy. That's whole new level of woodworking risk, and thankfully not something that I need to worry about where I live . . .
Take care and be safe.
@AJ, Did you debark the snake?
I'd have lit the pile up. Lol
where in nova scotia can u get this log wizard?
Great question. After I'd first heard about the Log Wizard I attempted to purchase through a distributor in Alberta, but was redirected to Norwood.
Here's a link. www.norwoodsawmills.com/en_ca/search/Log%20wizard
Replacement blades can be purchased at any place that sells Mikita planer blades. You want a pair of 3-1/4" replacement blades on hand should you hit a nail or embedded rock.
Also - it's very advisable to wear safety glasses and chainsaw pants when using this as that embedded nail or rock could definitely injure as the debarker clips it.
Looks like fun
Tooooooo much fun! Thanks for subscribing Karen!
how do you sharpen a debarking tool?
Thanks for visiting and being part of the 82Maple journey!
I generally don't sharpen - although I suspect that is possible with a standard bench grinder. Would just need to take care to ensure one does not overheat the blade metal.
The blades are standard Makita planer blades and are very inexpensive . . .
You have twice as many subs than I do. I don't try real hard though.
Good show man.
Love what you're doing! Looks like you're having waaaaay too much fun!
It gets down to cambium?
Thanks for tuning in to the channel!
It can on most Douglas Fir, pine or cedar under 20" or so - but it's not necessary to go that deep. My primary reason for using the debarker is to remove any dirt substance that can dull the saw blade, and typically that is confined to the surface of the bark.
How long do the blades last between resharpening.
There are several variables to consider, not the least of which is the type of bark (i.e. Cedar or Douglas fir) and whether the logs were loaded and handled cleanly or whether at some point they had a choker on them and were skidded through gravel and mud as part of the journey.
As you might expect, in the case of the latter the resultant grit, and the ability of Douglas fir bark to absorb a lot of grit in the crevases of it's bark can be a factor.
The blades seem to be pretty resilient tho. And relatively cheap (on Amazon in Canada for something like $15 all in. shorturl.at/orBZ9 )
I've probably debarked 50 medium size logs and while the original blades were getting noticeably dull at about the 20 - 25 log point, the blades are resharpenable. And that's what I will do with my bench grinder on the second set.
My first set was destroyed with I hit a buried metal object. (A good reminder to always wear eye protection, gloves, etc.) That sort of encounter is the subject of my Norwood Meets Bolts video ua-cam.com/video/PF-EURyJxOA/v-deo.html
As per comments in the video, one does not need to debark the entire log - only the area of the log where the blade enters as one moves from whole log to square cant.
@@howardkettner
Cool thanks
thx for the video, have a nice day.
Thanks, you too!
I'm sorry, this tool does not seem no where near as efficient as other debarking blades I have seen. Not to mention they are a fraction of the cost. Then add the cost of replacement blades like you were saying on the video on top of that.
Thank you for the review.
Thanks for tuning in and being part of my journey of learning.
Honestly - maybe I was looking in all the wrong places, but I did not find another portable (i.e. non-sawmill mounted) unit I could readily access in Canada - not that I'm opposed to dealing with customs and import duties.
Ween you reference "other debarking bladed" could you give me a couple of examples of your preferences?
Always open to viewer suggestions.