I have a 2011 sprinter and had all three injectors replaced at the Mercedes Dealership last month. Now my van smells like petrol. I suppose this is my issue also... Going to find out tomorrow. Thanks for the video.
Great Vid! Others will note that the oil filler cap can be removed from the extension and installed on the valve cover to prevent grime and objects from falling in there during engine work. Happy Sprintering!
It’s one thing to read how to do something and another to see a real person do the actual job. Great work and if/when I need to do mine I’ll certainly be streets ahead because of your video. Thanks to the camera operator for your patience in filming the whole thing.
every single time i work on a vehicle i get upset and band my knuckles and my back starts hurting. It was refreshing to watch someone go through the process that is much more mature than I am. Good job! its nice to know it can be done by yourself if you got the tools and patience. looking forward to your next videos.
Your husband is really good at explaining, and should do more How To Videos ( he is really talented ). Best of luck on your travels, and please continue to share your adventures ( as I've noticed you have other videos. Thanks again, Syn Silver.
This is the best video I have ever watched on any repair to a motor vehicle..i was going to say it was GOOD but its way better than that.. You are a great team have a great trip. Thank you both Robert.
was just looking at another video on this, they say it's essential to replace the copper crush washers and injector clamp bolts each time injectors are removed. also to ensure the old copper crush washers are properly removed. thanks for posting. the detail was good.
I suspected this is what’s going on with my 2007 Sprinter. Thanks for the details you present here. I’ll send this to my Sprinter mechanic who isn’t factory trained (but is good).
I just watched another video that shows a problem that it looks like you have as well. @ 1:47 you see a very clear view of your wiring harness where it makes a U-Turn and goes into an S shape. Your Sprinter is newer so time has not worn it down yet but on the video I watched on a 2007, the outside casing of the wiring harness was rubbed right through and exposing the wiring, (although not down to copper it didn't look like), resulting in issues with the way the van was running. Once he re-routed that wiring harness and before even wrapping in the electrical tape the running issues corrected themselves. I might be way off base but seems like squishing that wiring harness the way they do is just going to lead to problems eventually.
Good job!!! The kit that you bought to pull the injectors is for the older, 2006 and older, Sprinters. A word of advice though, you used the same injectors which is fine, but if you were put in new ones in, it would have required programming or coding. On top of the fuel injector there is a serial number that needs to be programmed to the cylinder#. To perform that it will require a diagnostic system simulator to the Mercedes DAS Xentry.
This is a different engine to the ones predominantly used in The U.K. (313CDI - 2.15 LITRE) , but the principle is the same . Thank you for posting - it really is a big help 🙂
In EU these engines are built in 318 and 319CDI Sprinters. But they are a real pain in terms of maintenance. A really densly packed mess under the hood. A shame that Mercedes sacrificed the 5 cylinder OM612!
The puller is for the older style injector. I have the same injectors on mine with the fuel feed on the top.Important to identify which injector before doing the job. I used a puller which screws onto the top fuel connection but modified it to use a slide hammer type fitting
I must comment on your injector leaking with the V6 motor. I have the 5 cylinder. I would make a guess that you are not letting the motor warm up from cold until the temp needle reaches the first mark. This cold running of the Sprinter motor can cause early leaking of the injector seats. I would cover the oil filler before working. I have heard and read that you MUST warm the motor to operating temp before removing those stretch bolts to avoid stripping the threads. (no matter how much penetrating oil you put in there) Once you have the black stuff removed and the hold down fork removed you have a way to grip that injector to start twisting in the first step of removal. This will reduce removal time considerably. Clamp a large visegrip style tool on the inject metal flat and start twisting and out it comes. Letting the motor warm up that little bit before you drive away from cold will lessen the black carbon build up on the injector body and leaking in that valley. This letting the motor warm up slightly will also save alternator life, turbo life and a number of other wear factors with this motor. No dealer is going to tell you this but it is a fact. I always take a slow road in the morning; avoid 50 mph driving until the motor warms. You are after slow warming of the motor parts. This is key to the 400-800K miles this motor can run. There are 800K miles Sprinters in Chicago still running. I had a neighbor with the '06 5 cylinder and he blew the head and after that he cooked the turbo. Slow warm up would have saved him $8K and a lot of bad words about Sprinters. My first 180D purchased from a long time Diesel owner included these wise words about letting the motor warm up slowly.
@@ruthberesford1198 Diesel is $4.87/gal here in Chicago and I have quit doing all the single trips but waiting for 4 or 5 stop before I leave the house. Henry Rolfe 1635 Wiltshire area.
I wished I had found your video last week. I had to change the seals on my VW crafter (basically a Sprinter with VW badge) but with a 2.0 Tdi VW engine. I didn’t understand the torque 8 nm plus 3/4 turn 🤷♂️ but my brother explained it but I wasn’t sure, but I did it and all is good.
Hey fuel filter is pretty simple. You have good videos out there. Take out the 2 diesel tubes, remove 2 bolts. pull up the central part slowly. Replace the 2 sealing rubber rings, and put it back in with the factory torque (for the 2 bolts)
Well made video, sound quality and camera work. Made me think I could actually perform my own mantaince on my old sprinter. I think i could have soemthing similar going on. i have the smell happening after driving for a while but also a leak of diesel near the fuel pump i think.
Mercedes also make a special tool which has plugs to plug hold down bolt holes (important not to get debris in these) plus also fits in injector orifice in cylinder head to stop debris going into combustion chamber. The other part of the tool has a brass wire brush which cleans the face where seal seats
Mark Mark, respect your knowledge and could you help me figure out how do you know if your Mercedes Sprinter mechanic is good. After watching this video, it like surgery...you got to be knowledgeable! Thanks.
One doubt is plaguing me. Did you edit out "improper language" when you realize the injector puller was the wrong model? LOL :-) I know that if it was me, I would have a lot to edit. LMAO :-) BTW Nice video, well done with good camera work and explanations. Thumbs up. Cheers
Great Video, Amazing video , I learned alot. I have a oil smell coming in my cabin and cargo, Light smell but hits me over time and its in my cloths, Any suggestions,
You should've soaked injectors with acetone before trying to remove them, the acetone turns the black death carbon to liquid black gritty carbon. I made a video showing how to make a puller to pull those stubborn injectors.
Thank you for this.... I have a 313cdi sprinter (uk) withMASSIVE carbon build-up, spread over a fair size area , on a leak from the nearest cylinder to the front of vehicle. I will try the acetone method and look for your puller video. 👍
I have a Dodge Sprinter 2500 2006, I have a bad smell of fumes in the cab, smell like is coming under the dash bord, the mechanic charged the flexible pipe of the exhaust, the oxygen sensor, the actuator of the turbo, they did a smoke test but the bad smell of fumes still there!!! What do you recommend me to do next to find the problem??? Also I closed all the vents going into the cab, but it didn't help with the bad smell.!!!
Mercedes use to be sign of quality and durability. Seen many happy driver to get couple of millions kilometers of it. Mine is 57k on odo is good on fuel but spent too much for fixing. My last Benz ever
Thanks for sharing this video. I have a 2010. Where did you purchase the parts for the injector seal replacement, the seal and the bolts? Could you post part #s if you have them? Thanks gain.
I have some issues, wonder if you can shed some light. I had this happen to my 2006, #1. Is the copper seal a tight fit, or a loose fit on the injector? Mine was a tight fit and I really had to push it on. Then when I started it, it missed fired and sent out blk smoke for 5 or so mins. Now when I start it cold, sometimes it sends out blk smoke and runs rough for a couple mins. It doesn't do this all the time, maybe 1 out of 3. I think it's a sensor, what do you think?
i have a 2014 Sprinter in Canada, MB charges $16 hr labour a a snails pace. I froze my baery las wine rin minus -40 dgress. I had it towed and asked them to let i sit overnight to arm up I also asked them to trickle charge my Battery but they just changed the battery at $500 I was so pissed off that I want to fix my own Van now. I enjoyed watching you, well explained, mentioned sizes needed for each item, good camera work did no hide what you were working on. Thnaks I ttried to change a fuel filter today on my 2014 3.0l 6 cyl, I got as far as lossening the filter but I coul dnot remove the fuel lines nor the extra lint, I think its a water line? I am an Hours drive from the nearest dleaer on a Saturday so I did not want to risk breaking th e connector so I'll htave to try again later. I'd like o see how you might do this. remvoe line conectors
All in all the injector hold down design was a major mistake for Mercedes, supposedly known for engineering excellence. Just goes to show, economics always is a factor in these designs. A more robust injector hold down design might have cost more, but would have saved countless hours of frustration and probably millions of dollars in repair costs over the years. Replacing one injector can cost $800 or more. However if you have the right tools and know what you are doing you can replace them yourself, as this video shows, so thanks for posting this.
Great video quality - I watched with utter fascination and interest. So if copper washer is the weak point what will prevent it from failing again? Add a thin rubber washer? No upgrade to the factory copper washer?
ColleenKaralee Peltomaa - There´s no upgrade to the copper washer, it´s just the way the system is designed. Although several diesel engines, from whatever brands, might come up with this issue. The reality is that the vast majority never experience this problem. BTW I´ll leave the note. If faced with this problem DO NOT post pone the repair. It will just make it harder for all involved and expand the "bill" accordingly. ;-) The seal is accomplished solely by the correct mating surfaces of the head/injector/washer, quite demanding feat. Specially considering we have a combination of steel, aluminum and copper and they MUST work together. The only "prevention" is to do the job right. Rubber can´t be used in this application (heat). Although some exhaust assembly paste can disguise other problems and make it work. Possibly the biggest mistake I see people doing when the problem arise is to over torque the fork bolts. That´s a HUGE MISTAKE, simply do not do it. It´s opening a can of worms all at once. When doing this type of repair cleanliness is imperative. Any foreign particle or scored surfaces will lead to similar issues later on. I hope it help clarify a few doubts. Cheers
Not necessarily. It´s quite common to see diesel engines with well over 500K without issues. In this video example, the washer was scored. The question should be how that happened in the first place and if that affected any other cylinders.
Hi had you heard something about that, I get a 2008 dodge sprinter 2500, I’m getting the code 2641-008 B60 (Exhaust back pressure sensor ) plausibility error, I just change the sensor and still the code it’s coming back right away it’s cleared, I Check the three wires plug connector, looks ok 5v, solid ground, good continuity signal wire to the Pcm, I put some extra ground from the battery to the frame and motor, Pcm case and nothing, i tested both sensors in another car and works good, the lifedata is showing always 5000 hpa or 72.3 psi i think it’s a default value. I check in the other good car and shows the same with the plug disconnect. Any of you guys has heard anything about that, any ideas what could be, thanks
@@stevenlarsen5774- Simply looking will reveal the "black goo" that´s an obvious indicator of the affected area. There´s no mistake about it you can´t go wrong.
I wonder if it would help to leave the covers off. Aid in cooling? Good job, I’d have done a few things different. I would have changed them all. I would have cleaned up the valley the injector was sitting in. How many km were on it when the seals failed?
I have a 2011 sprinter and had all three injectors replaced at the Mercedes Dealership last month. Now my van smells like petrol. I suppose this is my issue also... Going to find out tomorrow. Thanks for the video.
Great Vid! Others will note that the oil filler cap can be removed from the extension and installed on the valve cover to prevent grime and objects from falling in there during engine work. Happy Sprintering!
This is what's going on with my sprinter van! thanks for informing me on what the dealership would have charged me 1,108.08 to repair!
It’s one thing to read how to do something and another to see a real person do the actual job. Great work and if/when I need to do mine I’ll certainly be streets ahead because of your video. Thanks to the camera operator for your patience in filming the whole thing.
every single time i work on a vehicle i get upset and band my knuckles and my back starts hurting. It was refreshing to watch someone go through the process that is much more mature than I am. Good job! its nice to know it can be done by yourself if you got the tools and patience. looking forward to your next videos.
Your husband is really good at explaining, and should do more How To Videos ( he is really talented ). Best of luck on your travels, and please continue to share your adventures ( as I've noticed you have other videos. Thanks again, Syn Silver.
This is the best video I have ever watched on any repair to a motor vehicle..i was going to say it was GOOD but its way better than that.. You are a great team have a great trip. Thank you both Robert.
INCREDIBLE CAMERA WORK - steady to a point and video is super educational - HUGE THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!! ONCE AGAIN - GREATTTTT CAMERA WORK!
A+ Camerawork, tutorial and editing. Thank you.
Thank you, for the diagnose, replace & repair of the leaking injector seals.
was just looking at another video on this, they say it's essential to replace the copper crush washers and injector clamp bolts each time injectors are removed. also to ensure the old copper crush washers are properly removed.
thanks for posting. the detail was good.
Excellent job, with great attention to details (no reuse of injector bolts and very careful bolts removal.)
I suspected this is what’s going on with my 2007 Sprinter. Thanks for the details you present here. I’ll send this to my Sprinter mechanic who isn’t factory trained (but is good).
Fantastic video Although I was anxious waiting for a bolt to go down the oil filler tube!
I just watched another video that shows a problem that it looks like you have as well. @ 1:47 you see a very clear view of your wiring harness where it makes a U-Turn and goes into an S shape. Your Sprinter is newer so time has not worn it down yet but on the video I watched on a 2007, the outside casing of the wiring harness was rubbed right through and exposing the wiring, (although not down to copper it didn't look like), resulting in issues with the way the van was running. Once he re-routed that wiring harness and before even wrapping in the electrical tape the running issues corrected themselves. I might be way off base but seems like squishing that wiring harness the way they do is just going to lead to problems eventually.
Thanx for the wonderful video on replacing the injectors !!
Good job!!! The kit that you bought to pull the injectors is for the older, 2006 and older, Sprinters.
A word of advice though, you used the same injectors which is fine, but if you were put in new ones in, it would have required programming or coding. On top of the fuel injector there is a serial number that needs to be programmed to the cylinder#. To perform that it will require a diagnostic system simulator to the Mercedes DAS Xentry.
I’ve heard the ecu will eventually adjust the trim to the new fuel injectors.
@@jruerph they will not. Must take to a shop
@@gjguy7003a couple of hundred dollars on a code reader will do that.
You are great mecanic and teachers, very good job
This guy is a teacher
This is a different engine to the ones predominantly used in The U.K. (313CDI - 2.15 LITRE) , but the principle is the same .
Thank you for posting - it really is a big help 🙂
In EU these engines are built in 318 and 319CDI Sprinters. But they are a real pain in terms of maintenance. A really densly packed mess under the hood. A shame that Mercedes sacrificed the 5 cylinder OM612!
Fantastic information video I feel very confident that I could do this mysekf now
The puller is for the older style injector. I have the same injectors on mine with the fuel feed on the top.Important to identify which injector before doing the job.
I used a puller which screws onto the top fuel connection but modified it to use a slide hammer type fitting
Today i was able to fix my sprinter thanks
Very well documented instruction! Thanks!
I must comment on your injector leaking with the V6 motor. I have the 5 cylinder. I would make a guess that you are not letting the motor warm up from cold until the temp needle reaches the first mark. This cold running of the Sprinter motor can cause early leaking of the injector seats.
I would cover the oil filler before working. I have heard and read that you MUST warm the motor to operating temp before removing those stretch bolts to avoid stripping the threads. (no matter how much penetrating oil you put in there) Once you have the black stuff removed and the hold down fork removed you have a way to grip that injector to start twisting in the first step of removal. This will reduce removal time considerably.
Clamp a large visegrip style tool on the inject metal flat and start twisting and out it comes.
Letting the motor warm up that little bit before you drive away from cold will lessen the black carbon build up on the injector body and leaking in that valley. This letting the motor warm up slightly will also save alternator life, turbo life and a number of other wear factors with this motor. No dealer is going to tell you this but it is a fact. I always take a slow road in the morning; avoid 50 mph driving until the motor warms. You are after slow warming of the motor parts. This is key to the 400-800K miles this motor can run. There are 800K miles Sprinters in Chicago still running. I had a neighbor with the '06 5 cylinder and he blew the head and after that he cooked the turbo. Slow warm up would have saved him $8K and a lot of bad words about Sprinters. My first 180D purchased from a long time Diesel owner included these wise words about letting the motor warm up slowly.
Is this leaking also known as the " Black Death" ?? which is fairly common on the I- 5 ?
@@frankmccleary I'm 90% sure it's the same thing, yeah
Gentlemen, I believe that the term “Black Death” refers to “rust” here in the U.K.
5 cylinders !! 6 cylinders !! ..... Crikey , we only have 4 cylinder 2.1 litre sprinter here in the UK - but diesel is £8.19 a gallon 😬
@@ruthberesford1198 Diesel is $4.87/gal here in Chicago and I have quit doing all the single trips but waiting for 4 or 5 stop before I leave the house. Henry Rolfe 1635 Wiltshire area.
verr
y informative & easy to follow, clear photography thanks
I wished I had found your video last week. I had to change the seals on my VW crafter (basically a Sprinter with VW badge) but with a 2.0 Tdi VW engine.
I didn’t understand the torque 8 nm plus 3/4 turn 🤷♂️ but my brother explained it but I wasn’t sure, but I did it and all is good.
And a quarter turn not 90° not 3/4 270° you would risk shearing off the stretch bolts in the head then it's a ball ache..
Thanks
Thank you. Sincerely.
Good video quality, awesome explanation, thank you for your knowledge! Great job :)
Great video instructional 👍🏻👍🏻
You have lots of patience to coax the parts to loosen up!
Excellent tutorial.
I love the video
I also preferred 90 degrees after torque setting reached for the same reason
How did you clean the seal seat in the head was there any pitting or did you just wipe it with a rag over a flat blade screwdriver?
Diagram of injector system for 1998 mercedes benz suv
What an amazing video... Thanks
I'm your patreon now. Thanks for shared your knowledge.
GOOD WORK THANK YOU
One should bleed the injectors before connecting them electronically. Car will then starts with one cranks and also prevents Inejctor lockup.
Please let me know if you make a video of Changing a fuel filter, woul dreally like to see how you woul d do it, thanks again
Hey fuel filter is pretty simple. You have good videos out there. Take out the 2 diesel tubes, remove 2 bolts. pull up the central part slowly. Replace the 2 sealing rubber rings, and put it back in with the factory torque (for the 2 bolts)
Thank you
Great video. Thanks
The best copper washer to use on the mercedes is from a Honda ctdi, its roughly 2.1mm thick instead of being 1.5mm that mercedes uses!
Well made video, sound quality and camera work. Made me think I could actually perform my own mantaince on my old sprinter. I think i could have soemthing similar going on. i have the smell happening after driving for a while but also a leak of diesel near the fuel pump i think.
Thanks , very helpful.
I got two questions. One why didn't you power wash where the injectors go, and why not replace the injectors???
Mercedes also make a special tool which has plugs to plug hold down bolt holes (important not to get debris in these) plus also fits in injector orifice in cylinder head to stop debris going into combustion chamber. The other part of the tool has a brass wire brush which cleans the face where seal seats
Mark Mark, respect your knowledge and could you help me figure out how do you know if your Mercedes Sprinter mechanic is good. After watching this video, it like surgery...you got to be knowledgeable! Thanks.
One doubt is plaguing me.
Did you edit out "improper language" when you realize the injector puller was the wrong model? LOL :-)
I know that if it was me, I would have a lot to edit. LMAO :-)
BTW Nice video, well done with good camera work and explanations. Thumbs up.
Cheers
Great Job! Where did you learn to do that 😊 I liked and Subscribed, I also have Sprinter Repair videos on my channel
I have been referring to your channel for help. Thank you.
Great Video, Amazing video , I learned alot. I have a oil smell coming in my cabin and cargo, Light smell but hits me over time and its in my cloths,
Any suggestions,
Very helpful video, thank you. What do you recommend for a service manual?
You should've soaked injectors with acetone before trying to remove them, the acetone turns the black death carbon to liquid black gritty carbon. I made a video showing how to make a puller to pull those stubborn injectors.
Thank you for this.... I have a 313cdi sprinter (uk) withMASSIVE carbon build-up, spread over a fair size area , on a leak from the nearest cylinder to the front of vehicle. I will try the acetone method and look for your puller video. 👍
Jeffery Plummer, can you attach info on how to see this vid. Interested on the ejector puller.
How many miles on your rig when these failed?
Do you think some Gumout carburetor cleaner would clean off the carbon ?
Can u prevent this from happening by maintaining?
I have a Dodge Sprinter 2500 2006, I have a bad smell of fumes in the cab, smell like is coming under the dash bord, the mechanic charged the flexible pipe of the exhaust, the oxygen sensor, the actuator of the turbo, they did a smoke test but the bad smell of fumes still there!!! What do you recommend me to do next to find the problem??? Also I closed all the vents going into the cab, but it didn't help with the bad smell.!!!
Good fix 👍👍👍👍
Appreciate the detailed video. Please comment on the total miles on this engine before the repair was made.
It was like this when I bought it at 166,000 miles.
Mercedes use to be sign of quality and durability. Seen many happy driver to get couple of millions kilometers of it. Mine is 57k on odo is good on fuel but spent too much for fixing. My last Benz ever
Thanks for sharing this video. I have a 2010. Where did you purchase the parts for the injector seal replacement, the seal and the bolts? Could you post part #s if you have them? Thanks gain.
Hi! Do you have a video, or can you offer some tips, in replacing an air conditioner condenser for a 2004 sprinter van 3500?
How many miles on the van to have these issues. Tks
Bring your tool kit on a trailer behind you lol
I would of taped the injector hole so no debris goes into it while taking it out. Otherwise great video and great work!
Only 3 cylinders have this van?.
It’s a V6 engine. He only did one side
These cars today require a full time mechanic on grounds . So much to fix on a Sprinter.
How many hours did it take to do this job ?
I have some issues, wonder if you can shed some light. I had this happen to my 2006, #1. Is the copper seal a tight fit, or a loose fit on the injector? Mine was a tight fit and I really had to push it on. Then when I started it, it missed fired and sent out blk smoke for 5 or so mins. Now when I start it cold, sometimes it sends out blk smoke and runs rough for a couple mins. It doesn't do this all the time, maybe 1 out of 3. I think it's a sensor, what do you think?
i have a 2014 Sprinter in Canada, MB charges $16 hr labour a a snails pace. I froze my baery las wine rin minus -40 dgress.
I had it towed and asked them to let i sit overnight to arm up I also asked them to trickle charge my Battery but they just changed the battery at $500 I was so pissed off that I want to fix my own Van now. I enjoyed watching you, well explained, mentioned sizes needed for each item, good camera work did no hide what you were working on. Thnaks
I ttried to change a fuel filter today on my 2014 3.0l 6 cyl, I got as far as lossening the filter but I coul dnot remove the fuel lines nor the extra lint, I think its a water line? I am an Hours drive from the nearest dleaer on a Saturday so I did not want to risk breaking th e connector so I'll htave to try again later. I'd like o see how you might do this. remvoe line conectors
I thought screws, nuts will fall in the open oil inlet into the engine.
Questions: :-) Did you replace the small copper washer on end of injector with new one? Did you use anti-seize on Torx bolt.? Thanks!
All in all the injector hold down design was a major mistake for Mercedes, supposedly known for engineering excellence. Just goes to show, economics always is a factor in these designs. A more robust injector hold down design might have cost more, but would have saved countless hours of frustration and probably millions of dollars in repair costs over the years. Replacing one injector can cost $800 or more. However if you have the right tools and know what you are doing you can replace them yourself, as this video shows, so thanks for posting this.
Great video quality - I watched with utter fascination and interest.
So if copper washer is the weak point what will prevent it from failing again? Add a thin rubber washer? No upgrade to the factory copper washer?
ColleenKaralee Peltomaa - There´s no upgrade to the copper washer, it´s just the way the system is designed. Although several diesel engines, from whatever brands, might come up with this issue. The reality is that the vast majority never experience this problem.
BTW I´ll leave the note. If faced with this problem DO NOT post pone the repair. It will just make it harder for all involved and expand the "bill" accordingly. ;-)
The seal is accomplished solely by the correct mating surfaces of the head/injector/washer, quite demanding feat. Specially considering we have a combination of steel, aluminum and copper and they MUST work together.
The only "prevention" is to do the job right. Rubber can´t be used in this application (heat). Although some exhaust assembly paste can disguise other problems and make it work. Possibly the biggest mistake I see people doing when the problem arise is to over torque the fork bolts. That´s a HUGE MISTAKE, simply do not do it. It´s opening a can of worms all at once.
When doing this type of repair cleanliness is imperative. Any foreign particle or scored surfaces will lead to similar issues later on.
I hope it help clarify a few doubts.
Cheers
@@crpth1 Yes, thank you. I was counting on some good advices, thank you.
Honda copper injector seals can be used as they seem to be slightly thicker and better quality
I just fixed the injector seals on my SUV last week. However, Mine did'nt smell that much.
Which side of the seal washer should face to injector?
It doesn’t matter
Yeah, to use injector pull tool, you must remove bolt to remove top half of injector, but then cant reuse injector till rebuilt.
90 is plenty on bolt,
I would just had done the middle injector just because I open up everything,now eventually you will have to replace it one day regardless.
Not necessarily. It´s quite common to see diesel engines with well over 500K without issues. In this video example, the washer was scored. The question should be how that happened in the first place and if that affected any other cylinders.
Hi had you heard something about that, I get a 2008 dodge sprinter 2500, I’m getting the code 2641-008 B60 (Exhaust back pressure sensor ) plausibility error, I just change the sensor and still the code it’s coming back right away it’s cleared, I Check the three wires plug connector, looks ok 5v, solid ground, good continuity signal wire to the Pcm, I put some extra ground from the battery to the frame and motor, Pcm case and nothing, i tested both sensors in another car and works good, the lifedata is showing always 5000 hpa or 72.3 psi i think it’s a default value. I check in the other good car and shows the same with the plug disconnect. Any of you guys has heard anything about that, any ideas what could be, thanks
What about the drivers side no leaks ? I have a van here with same issue diesel smell overwhelming in the cabin ... ?
There wasn't any leaks on the other side. We've put 4,000 miles on it since repair and no smell or leakage.
@@FitOrganicLiving how do you determine which side was causing the smell?
@@stevenlarsen5774- Simply looking will reveal the "black goo" that´s an obvious indicator of the affected area. There´s no mistake about it you can´t go wrong.
I wonder if it would help to leave the covers off. Aid in cooling? Good job, I’d have done a few things different. I would have changed them all. I would have cleaned up the valley the injector was sitting in.
How many km were on it when the seals failed?
should of cleaned around injector before removing it
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Really should be refitted with some grease A001 989 42 51/10 or similar....
I don't know how mercedes got away with this super common fault,, shame on you mercedes
With a hot engine, the injector will come out easily.
Just loosen the stretch bolt and turn the engine over. They very likely pop out on its own without any special tools.
Stuff clean rag into oil hole, and any other orifice that may not like contaminants!!!!!!!!!
Awesome video. Thank you
Great video... Thank you... !!!