TurboDirect S.A 380-430HP small frame BB turbocharger
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- Its here - something we have been asked for by many clients who have small CID engines, from the Suzuki Jimny 1300 to the Ford Ecoboost, Fiesta ST, Opel Corsa's etc - This is a dynamite dual ball bearing package we build in-house at TurboDirect S.A - Internal components are sourced from various manufacturers and the bearing cartridge is NOT a chinese knock off.
If you have a small size engine and are looking for an upgrade without lowering compression, this turbo will work very well at low boost pressures, and have the capability to double the engines HP should you decide to lower compression later and up the boost. The perfect small frame ball bearing turbocharger with a small physical size for those tight engine bays.
Enjoy.
Big week for you guys. Hope you are giving yourselves some pats on your backs.
Thanks buddy -- we trying to keep up with supplying orders right now, which is a challenge on its own, :-) Thanks for the compliment sir.
Looks like an excellent turbo! Is this already for sale? what is the value? Ship internationally?
What is the pressure range that this turbo can operate? Is there an option with dual Vband?
Don't suppose you would be able to run two of these turbochargers on a 3.0 inline 6 (n54)? Still struggling to find a reliable 500hp bolt on upgrade and desperately do not want to buy any of the hybrids on the market. I did read the previous replies here and it might not be the best fit for that application, but would like to hear your thoughts, or if TurboDirect could have a solution.
The hybrids are not reliable - the chinese have tried to build these aswell, and anything higher than a specific booth level sees those turbos fail. Why dont you consider a single turbo setup?
I would look here:- ua-cam.com/video/ay-G5AYBj4A/v-deo.html
This is something that would spool reasonably well for a street setup, and make the power you want with some reserves for you as you decide to increase boost.
@@TurboDirectSA I fully agree, I really am not a fan of the hybrids being built and people are spending small fortunes on what I see is a very unreliable solution.
Ideally I would like to stay twin turbo as going to a single would require a full rework of all the plumbing as well as a certification in my country (nz) .
I would love to go for a single turbo efr 7670 and just forget twins all together, however being rhd it’s difficult to find a cost effective solution. That’s the reason I’m constantly on the lookout for a reliable twin turbo setup.
@@ryanlawson5768 That would mean that you need to stick to what looks like an OEM bolt on solution - this is the unreliable "hybrid" turbos that are floating around.
Not much of an option i guess.
Great video as always. Will turbo direct be offering their own range of twin scroll ball bearing turbos
Thank you for the compliment. We have a new range of Vband housings coming out for the latest in-house offering of two model turbochargers we aim to release by the end of the year which is a 100% proprietary TurboDirect S.A product from the last nut and bolt, even the flanges are made by us -- The only parts we purchase that we never designed are the ball bearing cartridges. We do have a project which starts only next month for a larger range of stainless housings for the EFR turbo range with different AR's and flange face mounting options. Twin scroll designs we will address at a later stage.
I have noticed that most turbochargers with non-splitter blade compressorwheel have ported shroud compressor cover to reduce surge problems. With a small T25 A/R0.49 turbine housing, spool up will be intense. Will this turbo not stuggle a lot with surge at high boost pressures at low rpm? To be more specific, our goal is usually 300 hp at the wheels at 4000 rpm (ca. 540 Nm) for a 2.0L street car engine. We have seen that many turbos struggle severely with surge when we try to achive this. We find it challening to get the NA power at 4000 o/min. up to 100 hp (ca. 180 Nm) at the hubs and consequently about 2 BAR boost is needed to get to our usual goal of 300 hp @4000 rpm. Will this turbo handle this challange?
Thank you for the comment, and brilliant question. This is a long one - so brace!
Keep in mind that in order to "sell" or "suggest" a turbocharger to a client, you need to firstly understand what exactly the client wants to do/achieve in the project. (At least this is what we do at TurboDirect S.A) if you for example, contacted me with a 2.0litre engine and requested this GTX2563R from me, i would not supply it to you as this is not designed for this size engine and you power expectation above (never max a turbo out to produce your required HP target, always leave something in reserve, at least 20%) ----- UNLESS it was an 8valve motor with low RPM range being used for rock crawling, or lower engine and turbocharger RPM (low boost setup) like on an NA high compression engine.
Keep in mind that the turbine wheel on this turbo is very small - and perfectly suited to the AR of the turbine housing -- for small CID engines, this combination will work well E.G 1.2 - 1.6litre 4cylinder petrol engines with an rpm range up to 6000-6500rpm. In order to produce 380-400HP you wouldn't need to boost more than 1.2 - 1.4bar gauge pressure - at this pressure and rotational speed there is no need for the anti surge housing, not unless the engines ability to consume the flow is very restricted, in which case you would need to have prepared the engine in a way to be able to produce this high HP number in the first place - and no matter what turbo you install it will surge anyway.
What is surge at low engine RPM? Its a bottle neck (reverse pulse reverberation) in the engines ability to consume the incoming air flow - this backs up against the rotating assembly and slow it down, while at the same time the turbine wheel is trying to drive the rotating assembly on the other end. This causes abnormal bearing wear etc etc
How do you overcome surge, prepare the engine to flow more at that RPM, or lower the incoming air flow volume. How does one do the later? And i answer with an actual example myself and a close friend of mine named Steve Clark from No Sweat Racing experienced together one night while tuning an R32 GTR. The client had installed a journal bearing custom turbo for a drift application, as follows: T3 AR48 turbine housing, T3 stage 3 turbine shaft (55mmx65mm) and an AR60 T04B comp housing with dash25 compressor (55mm x 71mm) 8 blade splitter 409179-0025 is its part number. The car surged as we approached 1.4bar boost - couldn't not tune it out, and lowering boost lost too much power for the drift. we tried increasing boost, still no solution. We eventually replaced the compressor wheel for another wheel with the identical 55mm inducer and 71mm exducer BUT it had 6 blade splitter design - problem solved immediately.
Point is, spec'ing the right turbo for the right job is KEY to a successful result.
@@TurboDirectSA Thank you for an excellent explaination.
@@finnroen2334 Pleasure Finn
Love your videos chris, have you ever toyed with the idea of BB chra VGT turbo?
Thank you Conrad - We are busy with a brain storming session (we have had a few which weren't finalised yet) for a very popular van in our country - there are big challenges involves with variable geometry im afraid, its not as simple as it might seem .... One day we might just have this done.
how would these do with RB26 twin turbo ? 2x1.3l ?
These will work very well - they are NOT bolt on though, the comp housings dont have the flange face on the inlet and outlet like the Stock units do, nor the close fit actuators like stock units have. Some location and piping changes, but will fit into the space available.
would this turbo be good for a 1.8t
Is this the smallest BB unit you guys offer?...Also whats the price of this unit?
Indeed, I am so curious to know about the price!
Yes it is for now - we planning on a GT22R aswell which will be setup for 300-320HP -- pricing is loaded on the online store- found here www.turbodirect.co.za/store
Excellent, is 2.0L too much? Looking to upgrade my SR20DET. Thanks!
This isnt for that high flowing engine - keep watching this channel - the turbo for you is coming still.
ok, so this is basically what Garrett should had done many years ago and has a new 9 blade wheel instead of the '80s vintage 11 blade wheel matched with a GTX2863 compressor, is that correct? I find it a really smart idea, even if a tad oversized for a 1,2 lt engine, makes more sense for me for engines between 1,5-1,8 lt (obviously not hi revving 1,8 lt as 2ZZ or B18C for example)
I wouldn't blame anyone for this, as we all learn as we go along. The 11blade wheel is not vintage, it was released in the GTX Gen1 range in 2011. Always keep in mind that you need to plot a compressor map in order to use a turbocharger correctly and inside of the map, producing the HP you want, and ensuring you stay outside of the surge limit.
@@TurboDirectSA "11 blade wheel" I was referring to the turbine wheel not the compressor. That's why I wrote "a new 9 blade wheel instead of the '80s vintage 11 blade wheel". Instead I think that I can understand the logic behind it, a bigger 63mm exducer compressor wheel which can give more cfm at lower boost in comparison with an other design (6+6,7+7,8+0 etc) that suits better to the 0.49 a/r turbine housing.
@@aftastosk6016 I got you - thanks for the correction. Yes the GT style turbine heads are less back pressure and more efficient in driving the compressor, has a sharp cut back angle and able to rotate at high speeds. The small GTX25 turbine wheel together with the small AR49 housing, is a perfect match, but it runs a large high flow compressor on the opposite side, which provides flow, the rotating assembly therefore has a high thrust load, BUT this is why we chose a ball bearing cartridge, as it handle 50 times the thrust loading of a bronze type bearing system. We arent looking for high boost in order to produce the 38lb/min of air flow so the bearing system will remain reliable and the compressor flow is at its best low down for the smaller engines.
@@TurboDirectSA thank you the useful info - I would add - mostly for people that may reading us - that the biggest strength of a ball bearing is not a given by definition - I believe that they are stronger journal bearings that ball bearing out there - but I am sure that YOUR ball bearing would be top quality - because in one of your previous uploads you were the ONLY person that I am aware of that explained on the internet properly how ball bearings work and their real advantages. (I can talk here why MHI are still on top, but I would be of topic). You made me remember the "hybrid" conversions, usually destined for Nissans, of the various OEM T25/GT25s with a 2863 compressor that almost always ended up in bearing failure. Also, I wonder how much you are aware of, you made the perfect turbocharger for the Honda D16 engine and the VW 1.8T 20v
@@aftastosk6016 Thanks buddy, but the ball bearing is not my design at all, its an off the shelf cartridge which is available if you know where to buy it, and its the original OEM supplier for Garrett which we purchase directly from. Being the Master Garrett Distributor has its perks i guess.
Great video as always
I'm curious: why go with an 11 blade comp wheel and not a 7+7 design?
The reason is that we wanted the majority of the air flow in the mid range (midrange turbo speed) and mid-range P2C ratio so that we prevent surge on the engines that arent able to flow much in their higher engine rpm range. The 7blade splitter flow more and more the faster you rotate it (generally) see compressor maps from the Borgwarner range (they use 7blade splitter designs) as they have a massive P2C range and VERY wide compressor map especially in the higher turbo rpm range.
@@TurboDirectSA Thanks for the info. There's quite a little info in turbine and compressor design out there and the few bits I found stated 11 blade designs flow more in the top RPM range. I don't remember you guys covering blade count effects in your comp designs video.
@@alexK661 I have the very first printed pamphlet from 2011 when the GTX Gen1 was first released, the compressor maps are overlaid and the increases start from the midrange (P2C ) area on the map - sure its flow increases all the way to the top of the map and then some, but the main purpose of the choice of the multi blade wheel was the higher low down (turbo RPM) flow increase.
to take advantage of the better efficiency at higher boost levels that a 7+7 (or a 6+6) compressor wheel provides a bigger turbine housing is needed, if not, you would end up either with surge problems or simply lower boost setup where the 11+0 is better.
@@alexK661 the main idea when the GTX was presented was to downsize so for example from a GT2871 to a GTX2867 that in theory was a good idea but since most people think in a very single minded way, that better is = which compressor can take most boost at a given dimension, Garrett moved in the opposite direction with the Gen2 and the G-series.
How would this work on a 2.5l only looking to make 250-275 whp
If this is a petrol driven 2500cc engine, then no this turbo is too small - keep watching, a suitable unit will be coming onto the channel very soon - its the GTX2867R -