You’re the man Paul. That’s how I port LS heads. I got into these little engines a couple months ago and I’m about to put a hurting on these boys on mini bikes. With stock junk and a little bit of billet where nobody can see. lol.
@Paul's Karts Its very hard to tell from the video if you did the same thing or not, But i've always had the best results from the bowl being wider/taller and the flange/mouth of the ports (3"-4" from the valves) being the tightest point in the whole runner. That speeds up the air coming into the head a lot and it slows it way down right before going through the valve letting is spread/swirl around the valve better instead of ripping through the far side only. I also bias the ports aswell like you did. I could be wrong but it looked like some of the heads you've done, the mouth of the port was bigger than the end of the port/bowl. small displacement engines need as much port velocity and torque as possible but still needs to slow down before the valve. If you look at AFR V8 heads the opening of the port is pretty small but they get huge down near the valve and they are also usually biased. I also like to do a 3+ angle valve job with a 30ish° seat on the intake side ONLY and a 45° exhaust seat with no back cut valve or anything, especially if the exhaust port is close to the size of the intake already. On Intake manifolds i try to shape like a trapezoid around bends (small end of trapezoid on the outside/far side of the bend(s) and have the carb flange and the beginning of the runner the biggest and then slowly taper/narrow it down to the size of the smaller opening at the beginning of the intake port on the head. for tuning header tube length (especially on twins or v8s with a collector) i put a 24"ish long pipe and spray the outside of the pipe with cheap spray paint, drill a tiny 1/4-5/16" hole on the inside/short side of any bends where it wont escape but helps exhaust pipe flow (think air nozzle with a hole in the side)... then i run the engine at whatever rpm range im gonna use and whereever the paint has burned off (exhaust pulse/shock wave) which will be in one or 2 spots on the pipe, thats where i put the collector/horn, etc... that tunes it for the best scavenging effect. And when i mentioned rounding or tapering off your sharp quench pads, that works a lot better in my experience. maybe taper the whole pad(s) towards the chamber by even .010-.020" and then round the edge to the chamber a little that way as the mixture is compressed and shot inwards at TDC its not TOO FAST when it gets to the center and burns a lot more effectively. large tight flat quench pads cause a lot of different issues like hot spots, ramming the ring crevices, turbulence in the chamber that throws the burn pattern all out of whack... when its tapered & rounded slightly then as the mixture burns its also able to spread back out across the top of the piston better for a more equal downforce on the piston instead of shoving down one side/spot of the piston causing piston rock & more wear. (depends on how offset and small the chamber is in relation to the cylinder) There are some of the tips i said i'd give ya. Forgive me if you already knew any/all of it. I know you touched on some parts of some of it in your videos. I personally love hearing peoples speed secrets/tricks even if i already know them. Maybe something i said you can run with and improve even more if it was something you didnt already do. If you've found better ways of doing these things, throw em back at me! and your videos are badass! keep it up! OH and another one! after honing your cylinder, wrap a brown paper bag around your hone and send er in and out a couple few more times, That really helped with ring friction when i did it but did NOT hurt ring seating and sealing. it micro polishes off all the microscopic sharp burrs and scratches but also leaves the cross hatch. Got that from a guy that was at least 135years old. lol -Jeremiah Fiek
@@funkyjunky6574 the texturing yes. The slower the air the ruffer you want it. I use a bent burr on car manifolds to ruff it up after shaping. But port bias is only needed around the valve pocket / bowl to create the swirl needed to get the air going sideways out around the valve face.
Man I am getting a blast from the past. Ha ! I love it ... yea that was one sweet bench. I still have it but it’s taken apart now. Worked amazing but couldn’t get actual flow numbers and was worried about calibration and leaks in the bench. But the ability to test, get a base line , do work and check for improvement was there. Wow , what a trip ! Seems like yesterday.
What the hell was I talking about there 🤣🤣🤣 jeez ! I’m like totally thinking this pic was from another video. Soooo yea, the concept of port bias is huge. It’s got to be right, it’s got to be on the right side on both intak and exhaust. It has to be the right ratio and when all that magic takes place and it’s perfect it’s just amazing how much more power the engine produces. It just goes to show you there are ported heads. . . and then there are heads built by cylinder head engineers.
@@SpACeCruizeR2o3 not air = more power. With a stock cam you will trap air at a lower rpm but it will still give you an advantage to trap as much air in the rpm as possible
Started a bias then freaked out and laughed my but off when I broke through the wall and felt like I needed to start over. I watched your video and it made sense. Epoxy(jbweld). acetone is illegal in ca (jerks*) so I used soap and water to get the oil off. Dawn good enough for wild life good enough for wild rides...? Lol well when the water went through the port you could see the swirl your talking about. Im getting polishing balls for the exhaust and jbweld for the intake. 3 minute play-do. Wish me luck I wish I could send photos. Do I need to swirl the exhaust or just polish because I'm not swirling the head. Ty for the video. I have an extra head if I mess it up 😵💫🤪😤🧐
Dawn , good enough for wild birds good enough for wild rides 😂😂😂… 🤙 get Goodson epoxy for the porting. Swirl is not really the goal but a byproduct of the port bias. Make a flow bench or grab a cheap SF110 off eBay it’s like a GPS , or a map for how to. Once you’ve been to grandmas house so many times you don’t need the GPS anymore. Just need to see how it’s done and the areas that are flow sensitive and you’ll start getting great results. Remember velocity !!!! Two ports can flow same cfm and one with higher velocity will make more power. Point of highest velocity you want to be the valve seat. Old school thinking was the cross sectional area but push the pressure expansion forward to the seat instead .. that’s the trick. Easier said then done . It’s all right there the Bible 🤙
Dude I’ve always considered trying to swirl port my heads but never had a way to test this theory. And you just proved it right thank you. Now I believe if you stepped it up slightly more extreme than what you did there by almost artistically forming the walls with either the aluminum itself or with epoxy a fin like design not like a shark fin but more like the center line of a turtle shell but inverted and twirling around the intake tube but not just one but three of them smoothly guiding the air effortlessly but super efficient/effectively down the intake to the bowl and all while packing it denser and mixing it finer at the same time just little formed swirl just like what you did there but where it sticks up at it highest point no more than like .050” and gradually moving to its lowest point and gradually returning back up to the next highest point and again for a three fin liketwirl design not shark fin but backbone of a person when thy hunch over and inverted to an ID. Just a theory tho. But I like you moving to that design you posted.
Paul's karts Lifan 420 true but what if you formed the walls of the port with a three slight ridges that were actually low spotsthat dipped with smooth curvature kinda like the rifling affect inside the barrel of a riffle but only three points instead of the several found in a gun. And your highest points be considered the baseline in the overall port diameter size as to not restrict the requirements for the engines setup. That being said, I believe this would give more time to compress the air as it moved down the port. Bucause of the vortex it will create inside the port thus creating a slight positive pressure on the back side of the intake valve. Along with the kick you mentioned as it enters the bowl area. All this combined “in theory” should cause a rush of air/fuel mix into the cylinder as soon as the intake valve opens due to the positive or higher pressure or a positive Pressure. Because there would be a reverse tornado inside the port
Oh yeah on a side note guess what .... it’s tax season. I hope you have been working on having some ready to buy heads and other mech. Prepared cause everyones refund money spending should begin around mid March as everyone with a refund gets that extra $. All while spring is around the corner. I project you’ll see a increase in sales in coming months.
Current pricing (6/22) Small block is $180 big block $200 you can check it out and pay for it in the website. Located under shop services category. Website Paulskarts.com
Extra strength jb weld works great (on intake side only ) ... mix it throughly and clean head with acetone ... never had a problem myself .. I’m sure people will say there piece but take it from a guy that’s built 1000+ heads ...
hey paul i got some questions i need some help with im building a efi turboed gx270 for a 2 seat go kart but im new to the small engine world and i cant find much info on the gx270 i know its a big block from what i have read and its the same as a 301cc predator is it the same stroke and boar also i want to make sure my bottom end will hold up well for what im doing i plan on using a .308 lift cam also when i get all the parts i plan on making a vid on this cus i see alot of vids but most of them are done wrong when they turbo these motors so im going to make a video doing it right i just need a soled bottom end and i dont know if the stock crank will handle it
So would a bias port benefit any engine combination or is it more for a specific engine combo? Like an engine built for torque at 5-6000 rpm, seems like GM played with a port design for the old TBI engine that was biased. Everytime someone talks swirl, I think of the tornado in the bottle experiment.
That’s what swirl looks like .. a tornado ... any engine benefits from motion in the intake ....swirl , tumble , flow , velocity the more the better .. if you look at a port mold from any head you will see a bias . One side will be bigger and deeper and the other side smaller and higher . The wall needs to be straight on the bias side and the sass needs to be straight then have an rounded on the other . If you have 2 heads that both flow 100cfm , one with swirl and one without ...I would want the one that flowed 100 and had swirl .
@@paulskartslifan4206 that's a good way to put it paul, just curious how long should a properly built engine by you pushing 6100 rpm (Briggs pvl coil) last before needing a rebuild? Let's say a 212
Anybody can build an engine .. the better builders will last longer . Even a Kia will go 100,000 miles these days because engine building has become so exacting. A predator is made to run for 10 seasons on a pump running at 3,600 rpm .. once you take rev limiter out its life is cut into a fraction . Take aftermarket parts and now and enter them into the engine . These parts are made to one size fits all specs. That’s one size for Honda, lifan, predator , tillotson, ducar , duromax and all other clones. there is no way all those factories use the exact same bore size etc... that piston or rod you buy is only as good as the builder that installs it .. all my builds are built to last . I only install oversized pistons because I fit the piston to the bore myself . Same as every part I install . I hone lifter bores , hone rod big ends to prevent egg shaping the crank and have all the building processes like a major engine manufacturer.. I build 100,000 mile engines ( per say) I controls the process . An engine is only as good as its builder .. the builder only as good as his tools .. and the tools only as good as the calibration ... just like anything there are levels to this .. I’m top level
@@paulskartslifan4206 that's fuckin awesome man, I'm finishing up my first build ever a tillotson 212, more or less keeping it stock spec so well see how long she ends up lasting, I am going to record all engine usage and factors, I'm using a billet pvl flywheel from ARC, billet stock length rod from ARC, 10.8lb red stripe springs, billet sidecover from ARC, and a briggs 6100 pvl ignition coil, genuine mikuni 22mm and custom cold intake elbow and velocity stack combo that I rigged up myself which I think youd be quite proud of lol it looks awesome, I'd love to send u a pic if possible somehow, anyways is there anything I should add or change to my build? I want atleast 10-12hpish One day I am going to buy a motor off you paul!
Fake ! This guy knows nothing about welding or anything and you'll never see him doing any work on video cause all work is done by a machine shop. Fake, Fake, Fake but he does know how to sell on eBay. At one point in his life he was going to brake the world record at the drag strip with his mini bike but that didn't happen either , ggg lol ggg lol
You’re the man Paul. That’s how I port LS heads. I got into these little engines a couple months ago and I’m about to put a hurting on these boys on mini bikes. With stock junk and a little bit of billet where nobody can see. lol.
Rather be fast and look like shit than look fast and be slow as fuck … any day 💪😎
Just how I like it. Hahaha.
@Paul's Karts Its very hard to tell from the video if you did the same thing or not, But i've always had the best results from the bowl being wider/taller and the flange/mouth of the ports (3"-4" from the valves) being the tightest point in the whole runner. That speeds up the air coming into the head a lot and it slows it way down right before going through the valve letting is spread/swirl around the valve better instead of ripping through the far side only. I also bias the ports aswell like you did. I could be wrong but it looked like some of the heads you've done, the mouth of the port was bigger than the end of the port/bowl. small displacement engines need as much port velocity and torque as possible but still needs to slow down before the valve. If you look at AFR V8 heads the opening of the port is pretty small but they get huge down near the valve and they are also usually biased. I also like to do a 3+ angle valve job with a 30ish° seat on the intake side ONLY and a 45° exhaust seat with no back cut valve or anything, especially if the exhaust port is close to the size of the intake already. On Intake manifolds i try to shape like a trapezoid around bends (small end of trapezoid on the outside/far side of the bend(s) and have the carb flange and the beginning of the runner the biggest and then slowly taper/narrow it down to the size of the smaller opening at the beginning of the intake port on the head. for tuning header tube length (especially on twins or v8s with a collector) i put a 24"ish long pipe and spray the outside of the pipe with cheap spray paint, drill a tiny 1/4-5/16" hole on the inside/short side of any bends where it wont escape but helps exhaust pipe flow (think air nozzle with a hole in the side)... then i run the engine at whatever rpm range im gonna use and whereever the paint has burned off (exhaust pulse/shock wave) which will be in one or 2 spots on the pipe, thats where i put the collector/horn, etc... that tunes it for the best scavenging effect.
And when i mentioned rounding or tapering off your sharp quench pads, that works a lot better in my experience. maybe taper the whole pad(s) towards the chamber by even .010-.020" and then round the edge to the chamber a little that way as the mixture is compressed and shot inwards at TDC its not TOO FAST when it gets to the center and burns a lot more effectively. large tight flat quench pads cause a lot of different issues like hot spots, ramming the ring crevices, turbulence in the chamber that throws the burn pattern all out of whack... when its tapered & rounded slightly then as the mixture burns its also able to spread back out across the top of the piston better for a more equal downforce on the piston instead of shoving down one side/spot of the piston causing piston rock & more wear. (depends on how offset and small the chamber is in relation to the cylinder)
There are some of the tips i said i'd give ya. Forgive me if you already knew any/all of it. I know you touched on some parts of some of it in your videos. I personally love hearing peoples speed secrets/tricks even if i already know them. Maybe something i said you can run with and improve even more if it was something you didnt already do.
If you've found better ways of doing these things, throw em back at me! and your videos are badass! keep it up!
OH and another one! after honing your cylinder, wrap a brown paper bag around your hone and send er in and out a couple few more times, That really helped with ring friction when i did it but did NOT hurt ring seating and sealing. it micro polishes off all the microscopic sharp burrs and scratches but also leaves the cross hatch. Got that from a guy that was at least 135years old. lol
-Jeremiah Fiek
@@jeremiahfiek5495 that was a good read brother 😎
Thanks for all You do Paul 😎
Ummmm … you’re very welcome ! I’m glad you find them helpful. Or even say they are ! So thank you for saying that
Can i apply these techniques to porting my intake manifold on my car?
@@funkyjunky6574 the texturing yes. The slower the air the ruffer you want it. I use a bent burr on car manifolds to ruff it up after shaping. But port bias is only needed around the valve pocket / bowl to create the swirl needed to get the air going sideways out around the valve face.
Thanks for the video's , learning so much because here in South Africa you have to teach yourself how to do these things .
Thanks man ... wow , South Africa! Nice
this is pretty ingenious dude. I've been thinking a vortex has the highest flow and you just showed me that the Theory has some logic to it
Man I am getting a blast from the past. Ha ! I love it ... yea that was one sweet bench. I still have it but it’s taken apart now. Worked amazing but couldn’t get actual flow numbers and was worried about calibration and leaks in the bench. But the ability to test, get a base line , do work and check for improvement was there. Wow , what a trip ! Seems like yesterday.
What the hell was I talking about there 🤣🤣🤣 jeez ! I’m like totally thinking this pic was from another video. Soooo yea, the concept of port bias is huge. It’s got to be right, it’s got to be on the right side on both intak and exhaust. It has to be the right ratio and when all that magic takes place and it’s perfect it’s just amazing how much more power the engine produces. It just goes to show you there are ported heads. . . and then there are heads built by cylinder head engineers.
I'm gonna send my head back I ordered from you as soon as it gets here and have you put that mojo on it. That swirl has a lot of logic to it
That sounds like a knowledgeable decision 👌🏻
Lets see some flow numbers
Will the porting make a difference if u running a stock.cam on a ducar i wanna juice her up a lil bit what do you recommend
@@SpACeCruizeR2o3 not air = more power. With a stock cam you will trap air at a lower rpm but it will still give you an advantage to trap as much air in the rpm as possible
Just a quick question......have you become experienced enough yet so that it doesn't take so long to achieve the decent results?
Started a bias then freaked out and laughed my but off when I broke through the wall and felt like I needed to start over. I watched your video and it made sense. Epoxy(jbweld). acetone is illegal in ca (jerks*) so I used soap and water to get the oil off. Dawn good enough for wild life good enough for wild rides...? Lol well when the water went through the port you could see the swirl your talking about. Im getting polishing balls for the exhaust and jbweld for the intake. 3 minute play-do. Wish me luck I wish I could send photos. Do I need to swirl the exhaust or just polish because I'm not swirling the head. Ty for the video. I have an extra head if I mess it up 😵💫🤪😤🧐
Dawn , good enough for wild birds good enough for wild rides 😂😂😂… 🤙 get Goodson epoxy for the porting. Swirl is not really the goal but a byproduct of the port bias. Make a flow bench or grab a cheap SF110 off eBay it’s like a GPS , or a map for how to. Once you’ve been to grandmas house so many times you don’t need the GPS anymore. Just need to see how it’s done and the areas that are flow sensitive and you’ll start getting great results. Remember velocity !!!! Two ports can flow same cfm and one with higher velocity will make more power. Point of highest velocity you want to be the valve seat. Old school thinking was the cross sectional area but push the pressure expansion forward to the seat instead .. that’s the trick. Easier said then done . It’s all right there the Bible 🤙
How much for a port and polish?
Depends on the head
@@paulskartslifan4206 32/28
Paulskarts.com
4:06 ??
What epoxy did you use ?
Goodson
Dude I’ve always considered trying to swirl port my heads but never had a way to test this theory. And you just proved it right thank you. Now I believe if you stepped it up slightly more extreme than what you did there by almost artistically forming the walls with either the aluminum itself or with epoxy a fin like design not like a shark fin but more like the center line of a turtle shell but inverted and twirling around the intake tube but not just one but three of them smoothly guiding the air effortlessly but super efficient/effectively down the intake to the bowl and all while packing it denser and mixing it finer at the same time just little formed swirl just like what you did there but where it sticks up at it highest point no more than like .050” and gradually moving to its lowest point and gradually returning back up to the next highest point and again for a three fin liketwirl design not shark fin but backbone of a person when thy hunch over and inverted to an ID. Just a theory tho. But I like you moving to that design you posted.
That then becomes a restriction ... It doesn’t take much except for a flick at the end in the right spot to create swirl .. to much will reduce flow .
Paul's karts Lifan 420 true but what if you formed the walls of the port with a three slight ridges that were actually low spotsthat dipped with smooth curvature kinda like the rifling affect inside the barrel of a riffle but only three points instead of the several found in a gun. And your highest points be considered the baseline in the overall port diameter size as to not restrict the requirements for the engines setup. That being said, I believe this would give more time to compress the air as it moved down the port. Bucause of the vortex it will create inside the port thus creating a slight positive pressure on the back side of the intake valve. Along with the kick you mentioned as it enters the bowl area. All this combined “in theory” should cause a rush of air/fuel mix into the cylinder as soon as the intake valve opens due to the positive or higher pressure or a positive Pressure. Because there would be a reverse tornado inside the port
Oh yeah on a side note guess what .... it’s tax season. I hope you have been working on having some ready to buy heads and other mech. Prepared cause everyones refund money spending should begin around mid March as everyone with a refund gets that extra $. All while spring is around the corner. I project you’ll see a increase in sales in coming months.
No clue man .. that’s way outside the box .. don’t think the math works out .. but do some testing and let me knwo
Hey ! That’s right ...lol ... going to be working triple shift .. I’ll sleep in the summer lol
How much will it cost to send a head out for porting ?
Current pricing (6/22) Small block is $180 big block $200 you can check it out and pay for it in the website. Located under shop services category. Website Paulskarts.com
I’ve seen people On Instagram grind the valve set down as well on 75+ mph race bike
Damn it man you just made me biased lol but seriously I hope the head that mean you work so hard on will do good love you man
Thanks 🙏🏻
Hey Paul, what epoxy would you recommend for port shaping for a methanol engine? Heard some epoxy reacts differently from gas to methanol.
Extra strength jb weld works great (on intake side only ) ... mix it throughly and clean head with acetone ... never had a problem myself .. I’m sure people will say there piece but take it from a guy that’s built 1000+ heads ...
cool that's what I needed to know, thanks.
hey paul i got some questions i need some help with im building a efi turboed gx270 for a 2 seat go kart but im new to the small engine world and i cant find much info on the gx270 i know its a big block from what i have read and its the same as a 301cc predator is it the same stroke and boar also i want to make sure my bottom end will hold up well for what im doing i plan on using a .308 lift cam also when i get all the parts i plan on making a vid on this cus i see alot of vids but most of them are done wrong when they turbo these motors so im going to make a video doing it right i just need a soled bottom end and i dont know if the stock crank will handle it
🤷🏼♂️
@@paulskartslifan4206 im just going to send it lmao
So would a bias port benefit any engine combination or is it more for a specific engine combo? Like an engine built for torque at 5-6000 rpm, seems like GM played with a port design for the old TBI engine that was biased. Everytime someone talks swirl, I think of the tornado in the bottle experiment.
That’s what swirl looks like .. a tornado ... any engine benefits from motion in the intake ....swirl , tumble , flow , velocity the more the better .. if you look at a port mold from any head you will see a bias . One side will be bigger and deeper and the other side smaller and higher . The wall needs to be straight on the bias side and the sass needs to be straight then have an rounded on the other . If you have 2 heads that both flow 100cfm , one with swirl and one without ...I would want the one that flowed 100 and had swirl .
@@paulskartslifan4206 that's a good way to put it paul, just curious how long should a properly built engine by you pushing 6100 rpm (Briggs pvl coil) last before needing a rebuild? Let's say a 212
Anybody can build an engine .. the better builders will last longer . Even a Kia will go 100,000 miles these days because engine building has become so exacting. A predator is made to run for 10 seasons on a pump running at 3,600 rpm .. once you take rev limiter out its life is cut into a fraction . Take aftermarket parts and now and enter them into the engine . These parts are made to one size fits all specs. That’s one size for Honda, lifan, predator , tillotson, ducar , duromax and all other clones. there is no way all those factories use the exact same bore size etc... that piston or rod you buy is only as good as the builder that installs it .. all my builds are built to last . I only install oversized pistons because I fit the piston to the bore myself . Same as every part I install . I hone lifter bores , hone rod big ends to prevent egg shaping the crank and have all the building processes like a major engine manufacturer.. I build 100,000 mile engines ( per say) I controls the process . An engine is only as good as its builder .. the builder only as good as his tools .. and the tools only as good as the calibration ... just like anything there are levels to this .. I’m top level
@@paulskartslifan4206 that's fuckin awesome man, I'm finishing up my first build ever a tillotson 212, more or less keeping it stock spec so well see how long she ends up lasting, I am going to record all engine usage and factors, I'm using a billet pvl flywheel from ARC, billet stock length rod from ARC, 10.8lb red stripe springs, billet sidecover from ARC, and a briggs 6100 pvl ignition coil, genuine mikuni 22mm and custom cold intake elbow and velocity stack combo that I rigged up myself which I think youd be quite proud of lol it looks awesome, I'd love to send u a pic if possible somehow, anyways is there anything I should add or change to my build? I want atleast 10-12hpish
One day I am going to buy a motor off you paul!
( CFM x .257 = HP ) so you can do the math .. make sure to like the videos man ..
Good stuff! Love that intake coating.
Cool
👊
All day baby !!! 🤟
Do you prefer hemi or non hemi predators?
Depends on use .. is it stock appearing class or a open modified
Paul's karts Lifan 420 open modified
Fake ! This guy knows nothing about welding or anything and you'll never see him doing any work on video cause all work is done by a machine shop.
Fake, Fake, Fake but he does know how to sell on eBay.
At one point in his life he was going to brake the world record at the drag strip with his mini bike but that didn't happen either , ggg lol ggg lol
I wonder why the Gage War head still smokes this head? I know why but he won't like the facts.
doom voice , hate it . get into radio.
Lol