Leo Carrillo, Secos ("The Living Curl," 1965, w/ Ron Sizemore)
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- Опубліковано 28 лют 2024
- From "The Living Curl" (1965, 2008), a surf film by Jamie Budge
Available at:
www.thelivingcurl.com
Brass Tacks Press / Lower Topanga Archive:
www.brasstackspress.com
... - Фільми й анімація
Pure hot-dogging, with the Ventures doing Walk-Don’t Run! classic stuff. Sizemore has the proto-type “Skeg Start” move. Mike Purpus and David Nuuhiwa did the 2.0 version.
Damn the crowd wasn't much better then lol. Not a single wetsuit either so classic
That’s the first thought that popped into my head! Haha
Funny, I remember thinking it was 'sold out' in the 80's and guys would correct me saying the 70's were worse. This shows the #'s have always been there.
I met Ron in VietNam in 67 or so. I truly bitchin guy.
Hope he is still around somewhere.
He is you just heard him talking.
Awesome. I surfed Secos in 1965
I remember the water was always chili there!
Is it still this fun there ?
I love paddling out there that a good wave
Pacific Ocean in June was still cold 🥶 No Wet Suits! Also No leashes! Or Skateboards in 1965
Arroyo Seco...ok cool 👍
Know it well, on big days the takeoff point was just beyond that big rock to the right. Not much of a secret spot cause you couldn’t miss it driving up PCH.
Late 70s early 80s we"d show up here on late summer afternoons during pumping south swells
The crowds would exit and we'd always get it to ourselves for awhile before the sun went down. Unfortunately it just got too crowded. Best summer breal around even better than the Bu was Calleguas Creek just adjacent to Pt Mugu Naval Base. It was a rt hand pt and beach break that resembled anything in the Indian Ocean. Not kidding. Get caught surfing once they scare you....
Caught Twice you pay the price.
was it the breakwater construction on the base that killed the wave? or just different sand flow. checked it many times over the years from the base and never say anything of value.
@TimKyoutube Was once a bird sanctuary. It broke only during south swells The bigger the better
Hurricane produced the best shape but southern hemis too. My friend has a Pic of him bottom turni.g on a perfect rt. Was never crowded. Now you can surf the base but Calluegas is gone.
If the creek is closed off, then the sandbar is probably fkd. If the creek still flows, then maybe it's still alive. Next, strong south swell or before check out the creek. After 2 El Nino winters, the sandbar could be all time. I just heard it no longer existed. The other side of the base on Arnold Rd is some fun waves. Might be a winter break, and the locals aren't going to let locked car doors deter them. I dont surf anymore due to injuries. Surfing 🏄 sucks!!!
Yeah after this surfing turned into corporate shit
like the whole rest of this world