i believe this is the one i have: www.neobits.com/3m_7100043405_3m_power_wire_connector_driver_wcd_p_p15301782.html?atc=gbp&gclid=CjwKCAiAxeX_BRASEiwAc1Qdkf9-501TLpTYBpl-IvhV1P7g2LoBBWC35GbuwZyVIX3KsOEGE6wCARoCtqUQAvD_BwE
only thing i do different is fold the grounds horizontally at the bottom of the device. Hots and neutrals vertical on the left and right side. It leaves more space for the device in the center of the box.
I always enjoy watching how other electricians work, I tend to pick up little tips and tricks and find that everyone can learn at least one thing from someone else. Something I do different that I picked up from another electricians is to make the wire nuts umbrellas rather than buckets. Less likely to build up dust and less likely to fall since it would have to go against gravity. Hope that makes sense... 👍 nice job on the video bro
yeah it does, thanks. i feel like im set in my ways, but yeah i agree it's better. i'll have to try it out and start doing them that way. thanks! :) and yeah i agree, we can all learn something from everyone
That wire nut drill is hilarious. Electricity snd I dont get along- I sure enjoyed this video. I just replaced an attic fan motor today and want to add a switch to it so i dont kill all the attic power next time. Ya did a very good, smooth video. Thanks.
As a life long sparky best practice is to always strip #14&12 wires at least 7/8" long then pretwist with side cutters, then trim ends the tighten pressure connector ( NO SUCH THING AS A WIRE NUT IN NEC ) with side cutters then apply quality tape to prevent connector vibrating loose.
Wrong, tape does absolutely not keep connections from vibrating loose. Yes, many electricians use the pre strip and twist method. It works great. Just adds a couple extra steps. If i have time or if i have 5+ conductors I usually pre twist. All you have to do is strip the wires line them up nice and straight and twist the properly sized wirenut over them. A good electrician knows just by the feel when the wirenut is biting. When you can see a couple twists in your conductors they are generally fastened together. A visual inspection and little tug is all that's necessary. You dont use tape to keep it from coming off. Everything in our industry is listed for specific applicationa and purposes.
@@StraitClownin909Don't know or care about your lack of experience but have worked in harsh environments like crushers, hammer mills , shaker & vibrating conveyors, 500 ton shaking injection molding machines, punch presses from small to 3 floors high, etc. Only time that a pressure connector came off was due to lazy ahole not applying at least three wraps of quality tape around it.
@@DailyElectrician hey I cant speak for the twist bit you use…. But my coworker does it by hand the same as you, and the joint is not always secure. I have seen him double back several times…. It is what it is
Great Video!!! Just have a couple comments. (1) 4 fingers from the face of the box, not plaster ring.... I can tell you NEC requires 6" from face of box, if box is getting plaster/mud ring, then it's from the face of that. 4 fingers wide are hardly 6". I will agree that using a little less wire before tap is great for box space, but it is not correct. (2) that tool you used in the drill. Never used one, and this is why. I have been in the industry since 1995 and have seen many tools come up and disappear over the years. One tried and true method has always been to pretwist with your linesman's first, then put on wire nut. Listen, the NEC does not state it can't be done with an impact or drill. The NEC just says by mechanical means. If you pretwist 1st then the wire nut becomes just an insulator instead of the mechanical means of connection. Personal preference but also a safety issue for any future electricians who may work on those taps. Safety goes a long way in our everyday lifestyles in everything we do. Let us not always think about ourselves at this moment but let us think about how our actions at this moment may affect someone else in the future. Future can mean 1 second from now or 100 years, but it is always from right now moving forward in time. THINK ABOUT IT
Not saying you're wrong, but I'd love to see the code that says 6" from face of box. Unless it just got updated in 2020, it's always been 6" total, and i have at least 8". either way if you pull the wire straight out it's 7+ inches from the face of the box. so i'm still good. thanks for the concern tho ☺️
@@DailyElectrician I do stand corrected. I apologize for the incorrect statement. I just read your reply. Sometimes I get caught up in specs versus codes. I have spent many years dealing with the same type of specs and the majority of the time the specs I have been dealing with state 6" from face of box instead of the 3" required in the NEC. You are correct in, it is 6" from cable entry in box unless it is under 8". I can't remember the entire paragraph / article. I do remember it is requirement of 3" from face of box. I believe if memory serves me correct, it is in article 300. something, hell maybe 310. something. i can find it though, guarantee. 🤣😂🤣 Let me say one last thing. You definitely do your install in a neat and workmanlike manner. Hard to find these days. I have been dealing with lots of calls to repair new homes (and occasional commercial business) that the electricians that wired them tell the owners that there is nothing wrong. I get there and listen to the customer and go troubleshooting. 9 times out of 10 I have run into the wiring is way too short, wish I had a pic, and the electricians used the wago nuts, or however you spell it. Then when I pull the device and look, well guess what, wire barely making contact in the nut. I am old school with wire nuts. Trying to put one on with only 3 inches of wire inside the box and a 3-inch tail SUCKS and can hardly be done. Keep up the great work!!!!
no worries! it did make me question myself tho, haha. only used a code book once in nearly 5 years so it could have changed, lol. it's 300.14 i had my friend check haha. appreciate it! 🙏🏼
You could say that again. Tighter connection ass well. I've opened a few boxes ass soon as you just bring the wires out just to look the wire nut falls out.
Our company puts a box above every office switch or at least in every office so there's less wire in the box that the device goes into. The motion sensor switches are pretty big
@@DailyElectrician well we do a lot of TI type stuff. However we just run a backbone through each office so trouble shooting is actually a bit easier at times. When the tenant or when whomever wants something added lighting wise.. it's a lot more simple than running everything in each switch box
@@DailyElectrician I agree that it's a lot of extra work and connections. I'd just use a deeper box or use extensions rather than making extra boxes up above.
Question: If the incoming is connected to the outgoing to continue the circuit, then where is the switch leg getting its power from if there’s no pigtail on the hot and traveler?
Something I'm not sure of, does it matter whether you put a black and a white on the top or the bottom? is it going to pass through, regardless of whether you wired the source to the top & the load to the bottom, or vice versa?
similar ones on amazon for $10 www.amazon.com/Ideal-30-902-Spin-Twist-Connector-Socket/dp/B00R2CAK1I/ref=sr_1_38?crid=RDCUED9GY21T&dchild=1&keywords=wire+nut+drill+attachment&qid=1602541873&sprefix=wire+nut+drill+%2Caps%2C206&sr=8-38
Because you need to put the hot leg on bottom screw. The switch shows a arrow or top I get in trouble with it , so now I put a tape to mark the hot leg .
If you had to put a motion there and you didnt have an outgoing constant splice, you would have no idea which wire is the switch leg and would have to identify because motions and sometimes dimmers matter
not from the end of the box, but YES from where the cable emerges into the box, or for NM romex cable, from the end of the sheat, so that would be at least 6 1/4” from where the cable emerges. and depending on the depth kf the box, cable has to have at least 3” of free length from the edge of the box NEC ARTICLE 300.15
Electrician 25 years When I put my wire nuts on I Run it in reverse will pushing it on to ensure all wires are in then switch and screw it on till all wires start to twist you never have a issue....
Good job young man, bet you feel good at the end of the day for your accomplishment. Or you could have listened to the school guidance counselor, gone into debt with school loans and wind up with a worthless degree in French lesbian studies and have no income.
Hey, what bit did you use to twist the wires with the wire nut?
i believe this is the one i have:
www.neobits.com/3m_7100043405_3m_power_wire_connector_driver_wcd_p_p15301782.html?atc=gbp&gclid=CjwKCAiAxeX_BRASEiwAc1Qdkf9-501TLpTYBpl-IvhV1P7g2LoBBWC35GbuwZyVIX3KsOEGE6wCARoCtqUQAvD_BwE
@@DailyElectrician Damn. Lol they don't ship to Canada.
shoot. should be on other sites too or similar ones on amazon. let me know, worst case maybe i can buy and send you one some how
@@TheMarkoPoloProgram if u pre twist no real need for a nut driver imo
Don’t use it . Not good at all
only thing i do different is fold the grounds horizontally at the bottom of the device. Hots and neutrals vertical on the left and right side. It leaves more space for the device in the center of the box.
I always enjoy watching how other electricians work, I tend to pick up little tips and tricks and find that everyone can learn at least one thing from someone else. Something I do different that I picked up from another electricians is to make the wire nuts umbrellas rather than buckets. Less likely to build up dust and less likely to fall since it would have to go against gravity. Hope that makes sense... 👍 nice job on the video bro
yeah it does, thanks. i feel like im set in my ways, but yeah i agree it's better. i'll have to try it out and start doing them that way. thanks! :)
and yeah i agree, we can all learn something from everyone
caps not cups
That's a very respectable comment that's written with class. Nice work dude!
That wire nut drill is hilarious. Electricity snd I dont get along- I sure enjoyed this video. I just replaced an attic fan motor today and want to add a switch to it so i dont kill all the attic power next time. Ya did a very good, smooth video. Thanks.
Good job ! I’ve been in the industry for 37 years and I learned something new thanks
That's awesome! Glad to help. Was did you learn?
Great video and wow its done neat. Your kind of work quality is very hard to find. I subscribed and cant wait to see the future videos.
thank you SO much!
clean af good work
thanks! I appreciate that!
Why not leave one ground long and use the wire nut with the hole in it to create the pig tail. One less wire, right?
never used those wirenuts in my life, but yes
Good jab bro excellent 👍👍👍
thank you!
Cool work man. Only thing I do different is tape the leg so I don't ever get lost.
nice! never heard that one before, smart idea!
for light mc I use a single mc for power in and out I keep in a double, helps not mixing up the hot / SL
good idea :) i like it!
@@DailyElectrician
I thought of that because I was tired of fixing everyone's work, makes it really easy to troubleshoot as well.
i do that with romex and a double gang plastic box, 2 powers on the inside knockouts, SLs on outside knockouts
As a life long sparky best practice is to always strip #14&12 wires at least 7/8" long then pretwist with side cutters, then trim ends the tighten pressure connector ( NO SUCH THING AS A WIRE NUT IN NEC ) with side cutters then apply quality tape to prevent connector vibrating loose.
Wrong, tape does absolutely not keep connections from vibrating loose.
Yes, many electricians use the pre strip and twist method. It works great. Just adds a couple extra steps. If i have time or if i have 5+ conductors I usually pre twist.
All you have to do is strip the wires line them up nice and straight and twist the properly sized wirenut over them. A good electrician knows just by the feel when the wirenut is biting. When you can see a couple twists in your conductors they are generally fastened together. A visual inspection and little tug is all that's necessary. You dont use tape to keep it from coming off. Everything in our industry is listed for specific applicationa and purposes.
@@StraitClownin909Don't know or care about your lack of experience but have worked in harsh environments like crushers, hammer mills , shaker & vibrating conveyors, 500 ton shaking injection molding machines, punch presses from small to 3 floors high, etc. Only time that a pressure connector came off was due to lazy ahole not applying at least three wraps of quality tape around it.
Here in Chicago land its all conduit even for houses but thanks for the quick how too
Yeah, went out there once to work
I’m in trade school right now and my teacher would kill me if I didn’t pretwist the wires😂😂. Great work btw👍
I always prefer twist, I trust my splices.
It is good practice to pretwist
lol
@@DailyElectrician hey I cant speak for the twist bit you use…. But my coworker does it by hand the same as you, and the joint is not always secure. I have seen him double back several times…. It is what it is
Great Video!!! Just have a couple comments.
(1) 4 fingers from the face of the box, not plaster ring.... I can tell you NEC requires 6" from face of box, if box is getting plaster/mud ring, then it's from the face of that. 4 fingers wide are hardly 6". I will agree that using a little less wire before tap is great for box space, but it is not correct.
(2) that tool you used in the drill. Never used one, and this is why. I have been in the industry since 1995 and have seen many tools come up and disappear over the years. One tried and true method has always been to pretwist with your linesman's first, then put on wire nut. Listen, the NEC does not state it can't be done with an impact or drill. The NEC just says by mechanical means. If you pretwist 1st then the wire nut becomes just an insulator instead of the mechanical means of connection. Personal preference but also a safety issue for any future electricians who may work on those taps.
Safety goes a long way in our everyday lifestyles in everything we do. Let us not always think about ourselves at this moment but let us think about how our actions at this moment may affect someone else in the future. Future can mean 1 second from now or 100 years, but it is always from right now moving forward in time. THINK ABOUT IT
I always do my pinky to my thumb in a thumbs up position.
Not saying you're wrong, but I'd love to see the code that says 6" from face of box. Unless it just got updated in 2020, it's always been 6" total, and i have at least 8".
either way if you pull the wire straight out it's 7+ inches from the face of the box. so i'm still good. thanks for the concern tho ☺️
@@DailyElectrician I do stand corrected. I apologize for the incorrect statement. I just read your reply. Sometimes I get caught up in specs versus codes. I have spent many years dealing with the same type of specs and the majority of the time the specs I have been dealing with state 6" from face of box instead of the 3" required in the NEC. You are correct in, it is 6" from cable entry in box unless it is under 8". I can't remember the entire paragraph / article. I do remember it is requirement of 3" from face of box. I believe if memory serves me correct, it is in article 300. something, hell maybe 310. something. i can find it though, guarantee. 🤣😂🤣
Let me say one last thing. You definitely do your install in a neat and workmanlike manner. Hard to find these days. I have been dealing with lots of calls to repair new homes (and occasional commercial business) that the electricians that wired them tell the owners that there is nothing wrong. I get there and listen to the customer and go troubleshooting. 9 times out of 10 I have run into the wiring is way too short, wish I had a pic, and the electricians used the wago nuts, or however you spell it. Then when I pull the device and look, well guess what, wire barely making contact in the nut. I am old school with wire nuts. Trying to put one on with only 3 inches of wire inside the box and a 3-inch tail SUCKS and can hardly be done.
Keep up the great work!!!!
no worries! it did make me question myself tho, haha. only used a code book once in nearly 5 years so it could have changed, lol. it's 300.14 i had my friend check haha.
appreciate it! 🙏🏼
You could say that again. Tighter connection ass well. I've opened a few boxes ass soon as you just bring the wires out just to look the wire nut falls out.
Nice clean job. 👍
Thank you!
A fellow glow in the dark brother. Its rare to see others with those.
yessss ✊🏻
I Always give em a good tug test 👍😁 good work
every wire! 🔥
@@DailyElectrician loose wires cause fires 😁👍
☺️
Otherwise your light will always be on.....TIL You fix it. That was funny
Great video brother.
Thanks so much 🙏🏼
Can you please show installation of the switch too.
Good job,good video as always 👍👍👍👍
Thanks so much 🙏🏼
1st thing my superintendent saying is “why are you using 3 single gang connectors”
Our company puts a box above every office switch or at least in every office so there's less wire in the box that the device goes into. The motion sensor switches are pretty big
very true, that also sounds like extra work and cost and potentially a nightmare for trouble shooting or the next guy lol.
@@DailyElectrician well we do a lot of TI type stuff. However we just run a backbone through each office so trouble shooting is actually a bit easier at times. When the tenant or when whomever wants something added lighting wise.. it's a lot more simple than running everything in each switch box
that makes sense :)
@@DailyElectrician I agree that it's a lot of extra work and connections. I'd just use a deeper box or use extensions rather than making extra boxes up above.
Do yourself a favor and impose your manhood by nutblasting that wirenut till you habe about 14 twists in the wires. This ensures proper connection.
no
Question: If the incoming is connected to the outgoing to continue the circuit, then where is the switch leg getting its power from if there’s no pigtail on the hot and traveler?
Subscribed. Great job bro
Thank you so much! 🙏🏼
This video is a 100% used for me but i need to know how you install the outlets and that will be so helpfull
Something I'm not sure of, does it matter whether you put a black and a white on the top or the bottom? is it going to pass through, regardless of whether you wired the source to the top & the load to the bottom, or vice versa?
so when do you have to loop the ground in the screw
basically the first thing you do. just pick one ground (usually the longest) and ground it, then pigtail all after
What attachment for the drill is that for wire nuts?
yeah its for wire nuts
@@DailyElectrician where can I buy one?
similar ones on amazon for $10
www.amazon.com/Ideal-30-902-Spin-Twist-Connector-Socket/dp/B00R2CAK1I/ref=sr_1_38?crid=RDCUED9GY21T&dchild=1&keywords=wire+nut+drill+attachment&qid=1602541873&sprefix=wire+nut+drill+%2Caps%2C206&sr=8-38
I love the twisting tool for the drill!!
Yes!!
Gotta be careful though you crank it down too much the wirenut will break exposing the insides
yep
Identify the switch leg or the hot .so when you are going to connect the switch you know which one is it
why?
Because you need to put the hot leg on bottom screw.
The switch shows a arrow or top
I get in trouble with it , so now I put a tape to mark the hot leg .
never heard that before
TheCorvetteKid this is also needed for motion switches and other kinds im surprised youve never come across this
If you had to put a motion there and you didnt have an outgoing constant splice, you would have no idea which wire is the switch leg and would have to identify because motions and sometimes dimmers matter
Hey clean work, but I notice you didnt use the 6" rule, how come?..
thanks, what 6" are you referring to?
@@DailyElectrician: wire in the box from connector...
should be 6 or more. if not super close
Ay bro does code require the wires to be 6 inch extra from the end of box ?
no, just personal preference
not from the end of the box, but YES from where the cable emerges into the box, or for NM romex cable, from the end of the sheat, so that would be at least 6 1/4” from where the cable emerges. and depending on the depth kf the box, cable has to have at least 3” of free length from the edge of the box
NEC ARTICLE 300.15
Are you an apprentice or you already licensed?
licensed
@@DailyElectrician I'm starting commercial electrical anything i should be prepared for
Do you have any experience with any electrical?
@@DailyElectrician yes in residential
Very clean job
Thank you!
Anyone in Southern California want to get me in the door to become an electrician lol.
I have had no luck getting an apprenticeship.
i like/need that wire nut driver...sucks we use wagos tho
dang ;(
He said " I think so".
He did?! 😱
Ok sehr interessant eure klemmen sehr aufwendig wir benutzen in Deutschland wago klemmen
Trotzdem schöne Grüße viel spass
I've never seen a device like you had on your drill motor to twist a wire nut on that way
Great vid
Thanks! Glad you liked it!
I like how you don't twist the shit out of your conductors with the wire nut. It is not necessary & honestly not meant to be.
thanks! for sure :)
Never use that tool for white nuts . I cracks the internal spring and pushes the wire through to the plastic wire but . Not Good
What the tool that he puts the wire nuts on
wire nut drill attachment?
TheCorvetteKid yea that’s what it’s called ?
dunno, that's what i call it
I do not trust that twisting method thats for the impact driver. Where is the 6 inches of wire ?
ok. should be there
@@DailyElectrician Is this for a single pole application?
yeah (title of video) :p
I always pre twist and those wire nut twisters are amazing
Hey, What do you mean when you say “pre twist”?
Pat Splat pretwisting with lineman’s pliers before you put the wire nut on
Electrician 25 years When I put my wire nuts on I Run it in reverse will pushing it on to ensure all wires are in then switch and screw it on till all wires start to twist you never have a issue....
New code need grounding pigtails separate in box
explain
👍👍👍. Done subscribe.
Thanks!
Nice job I enjoy doing wiring I put lots on my Chanel hope you enjoy my videos
thanks
Wire nuts facing up. Just a good practice to avoid moisture.
yeah for sure
Suppose to be 6” before the ground screw and 6” after.
code?
Good job young man, bet you feel good at the end of the day for your accomplishment. Or you could have listened to the school guidance counselor, gone into debt with school loans and wind up with a worthless degree in French lesbian studies and have no income.
hahaha, that was funny but yes i am proud of myself. thank you :)
French lesbian studies sounds exactly like what I would like to major in lol
😂😂😂😂😂
Listen A-hole, I have a degree in French lesbian studies and am doing just fine living with my mom.
hahaha
:( ground wire from connector throat to ground screw too short
:( wire nuts not pointed up
to each their own :)
Go smoke a bowl dude
i don't smoke or drink, thanks tho
@@DailyElectrician haha. Cool dude.
You remind me of Bill & Ted
okay
Not pretwisting neutrals isn't wise dude...gonna ruin someone electronics someday...but they won't know it was your fault...so no worries, right?
you wouldn't understand, so I won't bother :)