One of the most un-regrettable things I did last year was subscribing to this channel. Stumbled across the simple video on CV axle circlip orientation for installations and been here nearly every day since. I like the overall approach of uploading videos that speak to followers. It's often in the titles too like this one which is more of a "click-bait" for followers than an over-reach for new subscribers, if that makes sense. It's different than any other channel I watch. Pretty cool. Like live TSB's in a way sometimes lol idk keep wrenchin'.
I remember working at gas station in the 60’s. No recovery tanks back then. Caps were usually the issue letting fluid ease out when they went bad. We had a machine we could mount the cap on and pump up pressure to see if it held. Nice video Kenny.
Worked in IT, hobby was cars and small engines. Early in my career I worked with an IBM computer system engineer and he told me he always ran a quart of ATF in his vehicle. He travelled a lot and miles rolled up quickly on his car (he got mileage reimbursement). He swore by it for long engine life saying it really “paid” like a side income. Ive had lots of success using it to flush an engine after repairing a head coolant leak. That’s those caught early enough so that no bearing damage has occurred.
My dad had a ticking lifter in one of our vehicles. He dumped ATF in the crankcase. Didn't take long for that to stop ticking. I'm fairly certain it wasn't type F.
To get the "Gunk " out, I just use 4 ounces of Sea Foam just before I do an oil change. Run it about 50 miles, or maybe an hour, then drain it. Been doing this since the 1990's and have never had a problem with this oil gunk! The problem is these new engines are run at 210 degrees orf close to it, and at that temp, oil burns from heat. Your newer engines all use stuff like VCT, VVT or like the honda B18, V tec. All these systems use very small parts that are real suseptable to "Gunk". It plugs oil ports, causes small parts to stick together and makes bearings spin because it is just like tar. You have to get that crap out of your engine if you want it to last. Oil changes help but are not the cure all. Sea Foam, Marvel Mystery oil, Type F trans fluids allhave a solvent in them that breaks that gunk down. All I do is before an oil change, I dump half a can of Sea Foam into the engine, and the rest into the fuel, I run it for a good while, and then dump my oil, change the filter, oil and It loosens up that crap. The fuel system can always use the Sea Foam to keep the injectors clean so it's a 10 dollar maintenance cost added to your typical oil change cost. Too cheep to argue about it. It works, you don't have to do it, but then you can pay a mechanic to do this each time you have the problem. Up too you!
Simple solutions for this one and major compliments for Kenny! Back when I owned my 69 Dodge Charger RT it had been gunked up with sludge just like most big blocks do, the previous owner that had solid it to me suggested to me (as per his dad that had actually worked in a Chrysler Engine Building Plant) to just await till your oil changing interval is coming due, adjust the current oil level down to the 4 quart level (4 out of 5) and add i quart of Dexron ATF II to top off the oil level to 5 quarts total, drive it around lightly doing such things running errands, back and forth to work and NO HAMMERING gas peddle whatsoever!!! Drive it for at least 200 miles and quite possibly 300 miles leading up to said oil change interval but then change out your oil and filter right away!!! When I reflect back on this very thing, and were I to do it again, I would change the filter first but then and the ATF Dexron II but the drive that for 200-300 miles instead and upon completion of that particular mileage and THEN change out the oil and filter! I have tried the kerosine method that of a quart's worth under strict advisement of a local garage only to run it ONLY for that of 2-3 minutes sitting still and do a drain and refill plus filter, which seems to work okay, but now may it be using Ford ATF Type F or the GM Dexron II my actual preference would be the Dexron ATF III which is still being sold and you have to hunt for it BUT it is fairly inexpensive as well! I think that there is still a supplier on Amazon that still sells it! I truly believe that transmission fluid as such that has a high detergency but when heated and under pressure, acts like a solvent to be able to loosen up that grime and with and if being used correctly as per these kinds of instruction, there should be no harm to that old engine of yours while being gentle with your driving for that 2-300 miles an NO HAMMERING on that accelerator or throttle period!!! Once those miles are completed, make absolutely sure to change that oil and filter thereafter!! These kinds of things can be accomplished every other oil change and do this economically and gradually and to a standard level of achievement that is acceptable without overdoing things. Make DAMNED sure that your PCV Valve is replaced and continue to change out that PCV Valve initially while starting out with these methods to start with and the specified manufacturer's prescribed interval thereafter too!!! The most common reason that sludge having built up in your engine is primarily because of your PCV System not working correctly to begin with AND this type of problem can also cause your engine to blow out rear main and front main crank seals with ultimate of ease and you will end up with engine oil leakage like crazy and I know this first handedly!! My 03 Jeep Grand Cherokee that I had bought from another person has this very same problem!!!
OGT's are great! For the uninitiated, that's old guy tricks! Funny thing about weather... it's a matter of perspective. I'm here in Oregon, and the weather looks just like yours...rainy and overcast. I'm thinking that we're having a nice, warm, and mild winter... not even any frost!
Love your videos! Concerning the ticking and knocking sounds, I’ve had an 03 C5 Z06 for 3 years and it has always made a fairly loud knocking and ticking sound when cold which is quite disconcerting! Recently I tried a bottle of Amsoil Upper Cylinder Lubricant in the gas and the noises are gone!😀 The engine is quieter over all when hot as well. A bottle is going in the tank with every fill up now!
Greetings brother Kenny. I agree with you 100% that the Ford Type F ATF works well to unstick lifters and to remove gum and varnish. An excellent video and thank you little brother. Say hello to Meg for me.
In 1979 I was presented with a 1976 Ford Granada with a neglected 302 and it made some strange noises related to the valve train, added a quart of F-Type ATF, ran it a few miles as it quieted, changed the oil & oil filter - it was a remarkable difference in smoothness and quiet. Chemical solutions are the best value when indicated as the remedy!
@@randyfitz8310 IKR, scared to do it with today's cars. I had an old one years ago I flushed the engine out with diesel. It worked, but I don't think I would take that risk anymore.
@@dennisrutherford6973 Indeed, everything I have read said to use a sacrificing oily (non drying) fluid like Fluid film (a lanolin product) that needs to be reapplied every year. Any coating that seals and dries will likely trap moisture under the coating and actually expedite corrosion.
Love your videos Kenny,Your a good honest mechanic .Wished you was in my area in California.its so hard to find a mechanic you can trust.I would definitely use you everytime for repairs I change my oil and filter in my 2005 dodge ram 5.7 hemi magnum every 3,000 miles.Even though i dont have to Cause i run Mobil 1 5w20 full synthetic oil in it.And they say wait to 5,000 miles!Im like nope not happening. And i have 217,000 miles on it.And it does not burn a drop of oilPeople just dont maintain their vehicles anymore like they use to unfortunately.Have a wonderful blessed day.
What am i missing? What does Ford ATF type F have to do with coolant loss? I heard the radiator cap was bad and it was replaced but where does the ATF come into play?
You should really mix the coolant concentrate with the water prior to adding it to the coolant reservoir because concentrated coolant in the cooling system could cause the engine to overheat & boil over !
My son bought a 21 F150 Powerboost used from a dealership. When he got it the coolant was down around the Min level on the expansion tank. I thought the dealership did a bad job of prepping the truck. We ended up filling it up to the Max level. Some time later we found out that the Max and Min levels on the tank should actually be labeled Hot and Cold so his level should be at the Min level when cold. No idea why they went with these labels but it sure is misleading for an older guy like me. Now if I could just figure out how to make this thing run when in park so I can check the trans fluid…….no idea.😔
The ls caps get old and the pressure release gets weak they will dump all your coolant out the overflow while you are driving only. I’d wonder why I’d never got a puddle but ya the cap fooled me once too.
GMC Yukon . 5.3L How about using the Type F as a preventative maintenance item to help clean the inside of the motor ? Say a quart . Then run for a while .
when you put in atf with your engine oil when you change it, should you go ahead and use a heavier oil since im guessing atf will thin it down im supposed to run 5w20 in my ford but last oil change i put 1 qt atf+4 and 5 qts 5w30 thanks in advance!
Changing up to one grade higher viscosity in Fords will not cause any problems. My thinking is that if you have to add ATF your oil change interval is too long. Yes do ATF like this but change your oil early.
Forgive me in advance, but I am scanning thru the comments and didn't see it yet... Does it have to be type F? I only have mercon/dexron in my old stash of fluids
Been waiting for the outcome Kenny. 😁 I still think my '15 was a good buy used. Suspected a stat stuck open. I either have an air bubble in the heater core courtesy of the bloody plastic "Y" with the idiotic quick connects/o rings vs the ancient Mayan technology of constant compression clamps Ford put on ONE end anyway? Or a prob with the blend door actuator/plastic gears? Blows cold only. Even with the temp at normal. Eventually. Still sourcing parts. Hoping I get away with the o rings only on the "Y" since I'll need new ones eventually. The "re-designed" OE Y is still plastic. So they maybe made a minor tweak in spec? Dorman seems to have the highest rated aluminum cast but the longevity is questionable. And if I take that dash apart to replace plastic gears that have equal longevity issues? I'm launching that infotainment system screen I don't want or need that has foibles of it's own like a frisbee. When I figure out how to keep the functions I need without it. Man I miss my '84 302 and '00 4.6L!!! Glad I have a vaccum tool for the cooling system. I want to nail everything in one shot and flush as much as I doing it with distilled water only. POAT looks to be in good shape. Should be able to re-use it. Putting the F in ord. Quality is job 1... Love your channel. Happy new year. 👍👍
I think this payday Ill pick up a cap for my 2000 chevy s10 because it goes down very slowly. Its the same cap that was on it when we found it setting in a barn for a decade. I didnt ever think about the cap. I did replace the radiator a while back. It leaked for a long time and I ran that radiator to the last day.LOL😁 If you think barn finds are great there is a downside , everything that held fluid leaked!!!LOL
How do you not hear those chains slapping in there dude... you work on these things but cant hear the obvious.... good thing you changed the oil, its gonna be back on a tow truck as the top end disconnects from the bottom end.... the cam phasers are falling apart, and its gonna be epic
Beware, using ATF on an old engine with too much sludge build up will clog the oil pick up and destroy your engine. The carbon will come off in chunks.
Just remember Kenny, glycol doesn’t evaporate. So if the owners just kept adding coolant the concentration might be too high. (It can happen) Glad you found the issue.
If the customer does not want to do the recommended service that you discovered, we have the customer sign a paper declining the discovery that you found. This is a liability that could come back on you.
I agree, it's important to cover yourself. We put "declined" on the repair order that the customer signs when they pick up. It definitely helps when dealing with warranty & insurance companies. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
I was one of the viewers who suggested replacing the radiator cap as I genuinely thought you were stumped because you said you had no idea what was wrong. I know feel you've suckered us all, now stating you were testing us to see if we were paying attention. ( I thoroughly hated school as I had undiagnosed ADHD, back in the day when corporal punishment ruled, I lost count of the times I was belted, then shortly after I left school they made it illegal to belt students.) So it still grieves me to remember school. You should do what wizard does and at least ask us what we think instead of pleading ignorance! Just saying, have a nice day.
One of the most un-regrettable things I did last year was subscribing to this channel. Stumbled across the simple video on CV axle circlip orientation for installations and been here nearly every day since. I like the overall approach of uploading videos that speak to followers. It's often in the titles too like this one which is more of a "click-bait" for followers than an over-reach for new subscribers, if that makes sense. It's different than any other channel I watch. Pretty cool. Like live TSB's in a way sometimes lol idk keep wrenchin'.
Thank you for your kind words. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
One of the best channels on UA-cam. 👍
Turned out great Kenny, that customer should be happy.
Watched these for some reason. Reminds me of why I do all my own car maintenance and repair.
I remember working at gas station in the 60’s. No recovery tanks back then. Caps were usually the issue letting fluid ease out when they went bad. We had a machine we could mount the cap on and pump up pressure to see if it held. Nice video Kenny.
Yep and if they ran hot it would spew the coolant on the ground, and hopefully a cat doesn't lick it up.
Thank you for watching and leaving a kind comment. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
Well it sounds way better for sure.
Thanks for keeping at it !!! It's nice when the solution to the problem is so simple....
Worked in IT, hobby was cars and small engines. Early in my career I worked with an IBM computer system engineer and he told me he always ran a quart of ATF in his vehicle. He travelled a lot and miles rolled up quickly on his car (he got mileage reimbursement). He swore by it for long engine life saying it really “paid” like a side income. Ive had lots of success using it to flush an engine after repairing a head coolant leak. That’s those caught early enough so that no bearing damage has occurred.
Thank you for the update!
If you suspect the radiator cap you could put a disposable glove with a rubber band over it and it will trap any moisture coming out.
Kenny, I take ATF equal amounts of type F transmission, fluid and acetone and basically what it is is Kroil
Awesome, that's what experience with anything will help with.
My dad had a ticking lifter in one of our vehicles. He dumped ATF in the crankcase. Didn't take long for that to stop ticking. I'm fairly certain it wasn't type F.
Sounds good! Agree with your thinking process. Your friend is lucky you’re still around.
Amsoil’s Upper Cylinder Lubricant added to the fuel gets rid of the tick/knocking sounds noise in my 03 Z06
its not gonna do shit on this guys broken cam phasers....
@ Ya, lubricants can fix broken! It’s worth a try with some problems!
Thanks for posting! I wondered but the only thing you took off was the cap.
Really interesting it was just a faulty cap. Sometimes the fix is that easy. As you said Diagnose the Problem and don't just 'Throw' parts at it.
To get the "Gunk " out, I just use 4 ounces of Sea Foam just before I do an oil change. Run it about 50 miles, or maybe an hour, then drain it. Been doing this since the 1990's and have never had a problem with this oil gunk! The problem is these new engines are run at 210 degrees orf close to it, and at that temp, oil burns from heat. Your newer engines all use stuff like VCT, VVT or like the honda B18, V tec. All these systems use very small parts that are real suseptable to "Gunk". It plugs oil ports, causes small parts to stick together and makes bearings spin because it is just like tar. You have to get that crap out of your engine if you want it to last. Oil changes help but are not the cure all. Sea Foam, Marvel Mystery oil, Type F trans fluids allhave a solvent in them that breaks that gunk down. All I do is before an oil change, I dump half a can of Sea Foam into the engine, and the rest into the fuel, I run it for a good while, and then dump my oil, change the filter, oil and It loosens up that crap. The fuel system can always use the Sea Foam to keep the injectors clean so it's a 10 dollar maintenance cost added to your typical oil change cost. Too cheep to argue about it. It works, you don't have to do it, but then you can pay a mechanic to do this each time you have the problem. Up too you!
Simple solutions for this one and major compliments for Kenny! Back when I owned my
69 Dodge Charger RT it had been gunked up with sludge just like most big blocks do, the
previous owner that had solid it to me suggested to me (as per his dad that had actually
worked in a Chrysler Engine Building Plant) to just await till your oil changing interval is
coming due, adjust the current oil level down to the 4 quart level (4 out of 5) and add i
quart of Dexron ATF II to top off the oil level to 5 quarts total, drive it around lightly doing
such things running errands, back and forth to work and NO HAMMERING gas peddle
whatsoever!!! Drive it for at least 200 miles and quite possibly 300 miles leading up to
said oil change interval but then change out your oil and filter right away!!! When I reflect
back on this very thing, and were I to do it again, I would change the filter first but then
and the ATF Dexron II but the drive that for 200-300 miles instead and upon completion
of that particular mileage and THEN change out the oil and filter! I have tried the kerosine
method that of a quart's worth under strict advisement of a local garage only to run it ONLY
for that of 2-3 minutes sitting still and do a drain and refill plus filter, which seems to work
okay, but now may it be using Ford ATF Type F or the GM Dexron II my actual preference
would be the Dexron ATF III which is still being sold and you have to hunt for it BUT it is fairly
inexpensive as well! I think that there is still a supplier on Amazon that still sells it! I truly
believe that transmission fluid as such that has a high detergency but when heated and
under pressure, acts like a solvent to be able to loosen up that grime and with and if being
used correctly as per these kinds of instruction, there should be no harm to that old engine
of yours while being gentle with your driving for that 2-300 miles an NO HAMMERING on that
accelerator or throttle period!!! Once those miles are completed, make absolutely sure to change
that oil and filter thereafter!! These kinds of things can be accomplished every other oil change
and do this economically and gradually and to a standard level of achievement that is acceptable
without overdoing things. Make DAMNED sure that your PCV Valve is replaced and continue to
change out that PCV Valve initially while starting out with these methods to start with and the
specified manufacturer's prescribed interval thereafter too!!! The most common reason that
sludge having built up in your engine is primarily because of your PCV System not working
correctly to begin with AND this type of problem can also cause your engine to blow out rear main
and front main crank seals with ultimate of ease and you will end up with engine oil leakage like
crazy and I know this first handedly!! My 03 Jeep Grand Cherokee that I had bought from another
person has this very same problem!!!
OGT's are great! For the uninitiated, that's old guy tricks! Funny thing about weather... it's a matter of perspective. I'm here in Oregon, and the weather looks just like yours...rainy and overcast. I'm thinking that we're having a nice, warm, and mild winter... not even any frost!
Amazing possibly the oil solenoids for valve timing were dirty too
Just so you know kenny, watching your channel is like going to church for me. Thanks, keep wrenching
I hope that doesn’t mean it puts you to sleep!
@leegraves101 ha, no far from it. It is relaxing.
you make great videos,and i agree on the type F,i have used it for 50 years and it does work.
Love your videos! Concerning the ticking and knocking sounds, I’ve had an 03 C5 Z06 for 3 years and it has always made a fairly loud knocking and ticking sound when cold which is quite disconcerting! Recently I tried a bottle of Amsoil Upper Cylinder Lubricant in the gas and the noises are gone!😀 The engine is quieter over all when hot as well. A bottle is going in the tank with every fill up now!
Good to hear, keep wrenching! 🔧 Kenny
Kenny would you tell us the ratio of ATF to oil you use pleases ?
This was a very informative video. Thank you, brother Kenny, for sharing your knowledge with us.
Greetings brother Kenny. I agree with you 100% that the Ford Type F ATF works well to unstick lifters and to remove gum and varnish. An excellent video and thank you little brother. Say hello to Meg for me.
If they still make it, the JB oil treatment was good stuff.
Thanks brother. I appreciate your kind words. Meg says hello. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
In 1979 I was presented with a 1976 Ford Granada with a neglected 302 and it made some strange noises related to the valve train, added a quart of F-Type ATF, ran it a few miles as it quieted, changed the oil & oil filter - it was a remarkable difference in smoothness and quiet.
Chemical solutions are the best value when indicated as the remedy!
@@randyfitz8310 IKR, scared to do it with today's cars. I had an old one years ago I flushed the engine out with diesel. It worked, but I don't think I would take that risk anymore.
I've been following the coolant leak mystery.
I just subscribed.
Thanks for watching & subscribing. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
YAY! Thanks for the great video. Hope y'all have a great day 🎉
Good Job Kenny.
It forms moisture at the top and leaks out taking little antifreeze each time it gets to temp and pressure
I change my oil every 3000 miles gotta make my truck last
I was going to say, change your damn oil and you won't have to get the gunk out later. 👍
Don’t neglect a wash or at least frequent fresh water rinses . I deal with good cars and rust .
@jonyoung6405 i have mine oil undercoated with fluid film in the fall of the year they always look like new even after 3 winters
@@dennisrutherford6973 Indeed, everything I have read said to use a sacrificing oily (non drying) fluid like Fluid film (a lanolin product) that needs to be reapplied every year. Any coating that seals and dries will likely trap moisture under the coating and actually expedite corrosion.
I use a paint brush and used oil to undercoat my 2005 Chevy truck frame, still looks new even on salty roads.
Well done!
Nice ford pickup kenny tks for sharring Godbless you and mrs kenny😊😊😊
I have to say I did check out the scanner link and it's no longer sold but they have other models available.
My 2005 Chevy Silverado was doing the same thing replaced reservoir cap problem is fixed
Nice vid. The Launch scanner is out of stock now. Hope they were all bought off your channel.
Thanks Kenny!
Excellent
Love your videos Kenny,Your a good honest mechanic .Wished you was in my area in California.its so hard to find a mechanic you can trust.I would definitely use you everytime for repairs I change my oil and filter in my 2005 dodge ram 5.7 hemi magnum every 3,000 miles.Even though i dont have to Cause i run Mobil 1 5w20 full synthetic oil in it.And they say wait to 5,000 miles!Im like nope not happening. And i have 217,000 miles on it.And it does not burn a drop of oilPeople just dont maintain their vehicles anymore like they use to unfortunately.Have a wonderful blessed day.
What am i missing? What does Ford ATF type F have to do with coolant loss? I heard the radiator cap was bad and it was replaced but where does the ATF come into play?
ua-cam.com/video/3dNOpt3DlSk/v-deo.html check out the original video. The engine was tapping in addition to the coolant loss. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
You are a very smart/perceptive man.
You should really mix the coolant concentrate with the water prior to adding it to the coolant reservoir because concentrated coolant in the cooling system could cause the engine to overheat & boil over !
Yup, i mixed concentrate with water. I hope you are well. Happy New Year! Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
The clicking & tapping is Morse code...for " help me".
😁☕
My son bought a 21 F150 Powerboost used from a dealership. When he got it the coolant was down around the Min level on the expansion tank. I thought the dealership did a bad job of prepping the truck. We ended up filling it up to the Max level. Some time later we found out that the Max and Min levels on the tank should actually be labeled Hot and Cold so his level should be at the Min level when cold. No idea why they went with these labels but it sure is misleading for an older guy like me. Now if I could just figure out how to make this thing run when in park so I can check the trans fluid…….no idea.😔
I was wondering about this truck glad you got back to it....
Nobody ever checks the radiator cap
16ozs of Militec-1 will resolve this issue and significantly clean your engine varnish out, restoring flow in oil passages clogged by buildup
Love your videos!
Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
Happy New Year Kenny...keep on making these videos :)
Great video
Thanks for watching! Keep wrenching! 🔧 Kenny
Wouldn’t the customer smell that leak?
the old 352 390 and 300 ford engines loved ATF-F when people didn't change there oil on time
'Their'...
Would you use Ford type F on a 2000 GM 5.3 with start up tick/knock or use Dextron? It has 143,000 mi. and I have had it since it had 23,000 mi. 🤔
Absolutely. I would use it in anything. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
The ls caps get old and the pressure release gets weak they will dump all your coolant out the overflow while you are driving only. I’d wonder why I’d never got a puddle but ya the cap fooled me once too.
GMC Yukon . 5.3L
How about using the Type F as a preventative maintenance item to help clean the inside of the motor ?
Say a quart . Then run for a while .
I have never needed to do that. If your vehicle gets regular oil changes, you keep your motor clean. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
MMO don't put Ford fluid in a Chevy you're gonna kill the unkillable 5.3
Sounds good but how long did you run the ATF and do you think it will work on a diesel tractor to help clean the black oil out
ATF in the oil to dissolve sludge. How much do you add? One quart per how many quarts of oil?
I usually add a single quart per gallon roughly. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
when you put in atf with your engine oil when you change it, should you go ahead and use a heavier oil since im guessing atf will thin it down im supposed to run 5w20 in my ford but last oil change i put 1 qt atf+4 and 5 qts 5w30 thanks in advance!
Changing up to one grade higher viscosity in Fords will not cause any problems. My thinking is that if you have to add ATF your oil change interval is too long. Yes do ATF like this but change your oil early.
There really isn't a reason to change to heavier weight oil. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
Kenny, can you use type f trans fluid in a straight synthetic oil engine ?
Yes. 1 to 4 ratio. Add it about 500 ish miles before the oil change is due. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
@WrenchingWithKenny Thanks.Really like your channel Been watching since before you moved.
Thanks for update. Not sure if you ever went over before but what brand of oil do you use and what oil filter?
Pressure test the cooling system warm and cold. Is that a pressure cap-if so pressure test it as well.
I had a ford bronco 2, and at 80 thousand miles the rear axle seals were gone. Why does ford have so many axle seal problems.
It really is unfortunate. Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
Because they are junk. Yeah, not what you wanted to hear, I know.
Forgive me in advance, but I am scanning thru the comments and didn't see it yet...
Does it have to be type F?
I only have mercon/dexron in my old stash of fluids
Back in the seventies we used a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil for engine cleaning.
I have used it before. I always have ATF type F lying around. Thanks for watching and keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
I always add some MMO with each oil change and run it until the next change.
Been waiting for the outcome Kenny. 😁 I still think my '15 was a good buy used.
Suspected a stat stuck open. I either have an air bubble in the heater core courtesy of the bloody plastic "Y" with the idiotic quick connects/o rings vs the ancient Mayan technology of constant compression clamps Ford put on ONE end anyway? Or a prob with the blend door actuator/plastic gears? Blows cold only. Even with the temp at normal. Eventually.
Still sourcing parts. Hoping I get away with the o rings only on the "Y" since I'll need new ones eventually. The "re-designed" OE Y is still plastic. So they maybe made a minor tweak in spec? Dorman seems to have the highest rated aluminum cast but the longevity is questionable. And if I take that dash apart to replace plastic gears that have equal longevity issues? I'm launching that infotainment system screen I don't want or need that has foibles of it's own like a frisbee. When I figure out how to keep the functions I need without it. Man I miss my '84 302 and '00 4.6L!!! Glad I have a vaccum tool for the cooling system. I want to nail everything in one shot and flush as much as I doing it with distilled water only. POAT looks to be in good shape. Should be able to re-use it.
Putting the F in ord. Quality is job 1... Love your channel. Happy new year. 👍👍
Would steam loss be both water and antifreeze or just water?
just water
Cold out here, Yeah, Kenny come back to NYS. 12*
It's 18 this morning here. Mrs Wrenching is not happy about the cold weather. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
Tell him to run restore and protect every 3,000 for first four the every 5,000 miles. 👍
Most old style caps are all bad when they get a few years on them.
How much ATF did you put in it and how long did you drive it before changing the oil?
He says one quart per gallon. Add it about 500 miles before your oil change.
@@brianloftin9196 Thanks. That helps. Happy wrenching!
do u add atf to the oil and keep it
or what i missing
He added it to the oil
1-to-4 ratio
And will probably do an oil change once it free everything up and clogs the oil filter
@@ricebike its an oil in the last
I think this payday Ill pick up a cap for my 2000 chevy s10 because it goes down very slowly. Its the same cap that was on it when we found it setting in a barn for a decade. I didnt ever think about the cap. I did replace the radiator a while back. It leaked for a long time and I ran that radiator to the last day.LOL😁 If you think barn finds are great there is a downside , everything that held fluid leaked!!!LOL
How do you not hear those chains slapping in there dude... you work on these things but cant hear the obvious.... good thing you changed the oil, its gonna be back on a tow truck as the top end disconnects from the bottom end.... the cam phasers are falling apart, and its gonna be epic
The task of making vehicles run correctly, sometimes requires an artist. Because we have 10,000 ways we ruin these engines and chassis😊
Beware, using ATF on an old engine with too much sludge build up will clog the oil pick up and destroy your engine. The carbon will come off in chunks.
My cap off to you.
Your car is a jar, your car is a jar. Oops how about the door?
Yup, the door is a jar. Happy Motoring.
You hate amsoil? Why?
Just remember Kenny, glycol doesn’t evaporate. So if the owners just kept adding coolant the concentration might be too high. (It can happen)
Glad you found the issue.
If the customer does not want to do the recommended service that you discovered, we have the customer sign a paper declining the discovery that you found. This is a liability that could come back on you.
I agree, it's important to cover yourself. We put "declined" on the repair order that the customer signs when they pick up. It definitely helps when dealing with warranty & insurance companies. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
I was one of the viewers who suggested replacing the radiator cap as I genuinely thought you were stumped because you said you had no idea what was wrong. I know feel you've suckered us all, now stating you were testing us to see if we were paying attention. ( I thoroughly hated school as I had undiagnosed ADHD, back in the day when corporal punishment ruled, I lost count of the times I was belted, then shortly after I left school they made it illegal to belt students.) So it still grieves me to remember school. You should do what wizard does and at least ask us what we think instead of pleading ignorance! Just saying, have a nice day.
Pay me now or pay me later....
Would love to bounce some ideas around.... I'm desperately trying to wake up the algorithm.