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The problem is people don't understand torque. The gear selection is what creates the torque at the rear wheel. In first gear, you get a lot of torque and a little speed. It's no different than a bicycle. If you're going up a hill, you put the bicycle in first gear. It gives you the torque you need from the power of your legs to get up the hill. Makes it easier for you to peddle and thus you don't fall down. The trade off is you can't go very fast. Works the same way on a motorcycle. Only instead of Wheaties, gasoline is your power supply, the con rods are your legs, and the engine's crank are the peddles. Conversely, if you're riding your bicycle down a hill and want speed, you put the bicycle in 10th gear. That applies little torque to the rear wheel based on the power of your legs, but provides your rear wheel the ability to spin much faster. There is no free lunch. Power = tq * rpm. For a given amount of power supplied, you can use it to provide tq to get the machine going or pulling a heavy load or you can use the engine's power in a higher gear to get greater speed. Little inline 4s aren't known for their low rpm power, yet stunters put a bigger sprocket on the back and voila, it becomes a breeze to loft the front wheel. Why? Because the they've increased the torque to the rear wheel. What did they have to give up in return for this extra rear wheel torque? Top speed.
Nicely explained Alf. Glad you brought this subject up. Internal combustion engines are designed and engineered to operate through a rev band. I've always believed that any engine that seldomly has a higher potential to develop premature problems... Once warmed and operating temperature is optimal theres no harm in using that full rev range periodically. You can feel an engine that has not been used freely by its previous owner, probably believing they were looking after their engines by lugging around.
Morning Alf Bang on the nail mate. A reason a lot lug their motor is to get that chug chug noise, they perseve harleys to have all the while. Should be ridden at different revs throughout the gears really, as per running it in. An occasional, up to 5k+ revs just to clear it's throat dont hurt either. It also pevents carbon build up is my excuse lol😊 Safe rides bud 🤙🥂🎉
I've had 2 touring Harleys, a 103 stage 4 and currently a 2016 CVO Road Glide Ultra Limited 117. Both bikes have crossed the 100,000 mile mark. My torque range is 2800 to 5600 rpm. So for normal gear shifting, I shift around 3000 rpm and for constant I stay above 2500 in any gear. As for 6th, once I'm at speed, 55 or higher I will use 6th gear. That normal sets around 2200 rpm, 75 is 3000 rpm. Anything over 3000 rpm and the milage starts going down. I can go as low as 40 mph in 6th before it starts to lugg based on how hard I twist the throttle (but I don't). Step hills out west and the Smokeys Mountains 2 up fully loaded and a suitcase on top at 55 in 6th is no problem. Never had a problem with either bike.
Owners manual says 15,25,35,45 for 5 speed models without a tach. They only gave you a speedo to comply with the regulations. Recently they added EFi and brakes that work apparently. My first Harley had 4 speed chain drive drive and solid engine mounts, everything feels modern after that.
Hi Alf! As always, thank you for your videos... my Sport Glide just failed. Ignition coil seems to be damaged and HD is not able to supply a replacement, they say item is on backorder until October, can you believe that nonsense? Really thinking about going away from HD forever. Before i make my decision, could you make a video about how to check your ignition coil or how to tey and solve those failures? Thanks a lot! Your videos are awesome
I dont know about anybody else but i do drop a gear when i want to speed up quickly. I usually never let the rpm go below 2000. Usually i down shift at 2 grand.
I didn’t know about lugging and I lugged my engine a lot and I’ve ridden it for ~120kms, do you think I’ve lugged the engine enough to cause serious permanent damage?
Don't be affraid to make some rev's with this M8 engines. Although I never want to overload the engine at low revs I can ride in 6th with 2000rpm (90Km)...only with no wind or down hill.....I stay between 2000-2500 when cruisin (Ultra Ltd 2021 114)
I'm an old guy. I always called " lugging" labouring.the engine. You know ,when you're labouring an engine , it chugs, and that tells you to drop a gear ! This is something you should have learnt way way before you got on yer Harley. No different to your car ,or your learner 125, 650 or anything else. If that makes sense.
It rattles if your in too high a gear for the revs on a new bike with quiet factory silencers. harleys are well known for it. Gearing is tall and these bikes are gear specific, if the roads your on call for 4th then ride in 4th. You dont need to always shift up to top as fast as you can and sit there. It can be a bit hideous aproaching a slow bend where even 3rd is too high, best to slip the clutch and pull thru gently rather than drop to 2nd and lurch the bike. Harleys are good for riding the clutch through tight slow corners always done it on mine. 6th gear is pure over drive, no need to use it unless on a dual carriage way or motorway.
My fatboy Milwaukee 8 lugs at 6th Gear at 70MPH. is it ok to downshift to 5th for passing power to get out of a situation, let's say 5th gear 90mph to 100mph ..i live it a very congestive area. People don't like guys just Cruisers around here. It's a stock bike with only a slip-on exhaust
That is almost lugging the engine. Do 2500 minimum, and up to 4k or so before shifting. One advantage to this is more oil moving around. You won't really hurt the engine unless you're up around 6k all the time.
@@derfskittlers6125 engine is not lugging at all around 2,000 RPM... I have been riding for 40+ years on many makes and models. but I do appreciate your input. : - )
Not so much putting stress on the pistons, your putting to much demand on the fly wheel bearings. Lugging the motor you can actually hear the stress placed upon the bottom end of the motor. The transmission will take a beating also. Lugging the motor is a no no. If your any kind of experienced rider, again you can actually hear the moving parts start to chatter. During oil changes you can see metal shavings on the magnetized oil plug. A sign the owner is a lugger, so to speak.
I disagree, theres more to it than "lugging is bad" Find a BSFC chart (brake specific fuel consumption) for your engine. It will show you the general range and loading the engine runs best at, if you can find them because they are difficult to find. If you can't find it, you have to go off crank / cylinder geometry and flame speed. That aside, I hyper-mile vehicles as a hobby and the best efficiency comes at "lugging" in the sweet spot on the chart, matching or FAILING SPEED. When youre talking about damage and lugging, you should be more concerned about oil and coolant pressures / balancing at lower rpms... I've had more issues managing that on my projects while keeping the engine in range.
Nicely explained, Alf. My FLSTSI manual goes in 10s beginning at 15. 1-2 (15) 2-3 (25) 3-4 (35) 4-5 (45) Coming down, 5mph less 5-4 (40) 4-3 (30) 3-2 (20) 2-1 (10) The main problem with the softail line is that they typically don't have a tachometer. I personally believe that your method of 12s is good... at least if it's wrong it's favoring the correct error (higher revs per gear). But, the math is harder; 10's is easier. Yes, lugging an engine, especially an air-cooled Harley, is the worst. Just don't do it. Aah, the downside of manual shifting. 😢 13:39 PS edit: ...another thing, if on a long down grade you can compress the shifting without lugging, whilst on the other hand if you're on a long up hill climb you'll need to stretch out the shifting to avoid lugging.
A wife is just as resistant to cooking and what not after the wedding cae Lots of heat, blowby, bottome end noise, forcing them to do something they dont want to do! PRetty soon they drop a cylinder and that wet crankase runs dry forever! (exit,,,stage left, saaay!)
Thanks for watching. Let me know what you think in the comments below. More videos like this here: ua-cam.com/play/PLmgCmljtdCzUqvX8H5C5vG1b7QiagtD3Z.html
Click To SUBSCRIBE bit.ly/RevelatorAlfSubscribe
The problem is people don't understand torque. The gear selection is what creates the torque at the rear wheel. In first gear, you get a lot of torque and a little speed. It's no different than a bicycle. If you're going up a hill, you put the bicycle in first gear. It gives you the torque you need from the power of your legs to get up the hill. Makes it easier for you to peddle and thus you don't fall down. The trade off is you can't go very fast. Works the same way on a motorcycle. Only instead of Wheaties, gasoline is your power supply, the con rods are your legs, and the engine's crank are the peddles.
Conversely, if you're riding your bicycle down a hill and want speed, you put the bicycle in 10th gear. That applies little torque to the rear wheel based on the power of your legs, but provides your rear wheel the ability to spin much faster.
There is no free lunch. Power = tq * rpm. For a given amount of power supplied, you can use it to provide tq to get the machine going or pulling a heavy load or you can use the engine's power in a higher gear to get greater speed.
Little inline 4s aren't known for their low rpm power, yet stunters put a bigger sprocket on the back and voila, it becomes a breeze to loft the front wheel. Why? Because the they've increased the torque to the rear wheel. What did they have to give up in return for this extra rear wheel torque? Top speed.
Thats for this. Still breaking in my 2023 soft tail standard and will remember the 12 rule.
Nicely explained Alf. Glad you brought this subject up. Internal combustion engines are designed and engineered to operate through a rev band. I've always believed that any engine that seldomly has a higher potential to develop premature problems... Once warmed and operating temperature is optimal theres no harm in using that full rev range periodically. You can feel an engine that has not been used freely by its previous owner, probably believing they were looking after their engines by lugging around.
Yes for sure
Morning Alf
Bang on the nail mate.
A reason a lot lug their motor is to get that chug chug noise, they perseve harleys to have all the while.
Should be ridden at different revs throughout the gears really, as per running it in.
An occasional, up to 5k+ revs just to clear it's throat dont hurt either.
It also pevents carbon build up is my excuse lol😊
Safe rides bud 🤙🥂🎉
My 2013 Road King seems happy cruising in the 2500-3000 rpm range.
good information will definitely change my riding style
I've had 2 touring Harleys, a 103 stage 4 and currently a 2016 CVO Road Glide Ultra Limited 117. Both bikes have crossed the 100,000 mile mark. My torque range is 2800 to 5600 rpm. So for normal gear shifting, I shift around 3000 rpm and for constant I stay above 2500 in any gear. As for 6th, once I'm at speed, 55 or higher I will use 6th gear. That normal sets around 2200 rpm, 75 is 3000 rpm. Anything over 3000 rpm and the milage starts going down. I can go as low as 40 mph in 6th before it starts to lugg based on how hard I twist the throttle (but I don't). Step hills out west and the Smokeys Mountains 2 up fully loaded and a suitcase on top at 55 in 6th is no problem. Never had a problem with either bike.
I had to get used to reving the Pan America after twin cams and mil 8 ... only use 6th gar on the motorway.
You deliver your information perfectly Alf 👌, have you ever worked as a teacher or instructor in the past?
Thanks so much and yes I have been. Cheers
Owners manual says 15,25,35,45 for 5 speed models without a tach.
They only gave you a speedo to comply with the regulations. Recently they added EFi and brakes that work apparently.
My first Harley had 4 speed chain drive drive and solid engine mounts, everything feels modern after that.
I generally keep my gearing around 10 mph apart. Easier for me to do the math, lol.
Alf,
The stroke of the 107 is a little shorter, less leverage.
Got the 114, and I just try and stay at 2000rpms or above.
Stroke does affect piston speeds though, and when flame front speeds resonate with piston speeds, life is good.
Hi Alf! As always, thank you for your videos... my Sport Glide just failed. Ignition coil seems to be damaged and HD is not able to supply a replacement, they say item is on backorder until October, can you believe that nonsense? Really thinking about going away from HD forever.
Before i make my decision, could you make a video about how to check your ignition coil or how to tey and solve those failures?
Thanks a lot! Your videos are awesome
I will see if I can cheers
I dont know about anybody else but i do drop a gear when i want to speed up quickly. I usually never let the rpm go below 2000. Usually i down shift at 2 grand.
I just use my ears. If you open the throttle on an automatic it immediately steps down and the same principle should be applied to manuals.👍
I didn’t know about lugging and I lugged my engine a lot and I’ve ridden it for ~120kms, do you think I’ve lugged the engine enough to cause serious permanent damage?
If you haven't noticed anything you've gotten away with it
What make is your phone mount? Thanks
Not sure. Generic
Don't be affraid to make some rev's with this M8 engines. Although I never want to overload the engine at low revs I can ride in 6th with 2000rpm (90Km)...only with no wind or down hill.....I stay between 2000-2500 when cruisin (Ultra Ltd 2021 114)
I'm an old guy. I always called " lugging" labouring.the engine. You know ,when you're labouring an engine , it chugs, and that tells you to drop a gear ! This is something you should have learnt way way before you got on yer Harley. No different to your car ,or your learner 125, 650 or anything else. If that makes sense.
I'm just wondering about a stage 2 upgrade , do you think it's worth it ? For the extra cost . Cheers
It really depends on your riding habits I suppose
God I have been doing it all wrong ,thanks for this video
Threw a SE power cam
Into my softail slim, I don’t lug the engine!
So these "tractors" aren't made for digging...
It rattles if your in too high a gear for the revs on a new bike with quiet factory silencers. harleys are well known for it. Gearing is tall and these bikes are gear specific, if the roads your on call for 4th then ride in 4th. You dont need to always shift up to top as fast as you can and sit there. It can be a bit hideous aproaching a slow bend where even 3rd is too high, best to slip the clutch and pull thru gently rather than drop to 2nd and lurch the bike. Harleys are good for riding the clutch through tight slow corners always done it on mine. 6th gear is pure over drive, no need to use it unless on a dual carriage way or motorway.
My fatboy Milwaukee 8 lugs at 6th Gear at 70MPH. is it ok to downshift to 5th for passing power to get out of a situation, let's say 5th gear 90mph to 100mph ..i live it a very congestive area. People don't like guys just Cruisers around here. It's a stock bike with only a slip-on exhaust
Yes it’s ok to down shift to pass. I like to keep my rpms high when I ride so I’m always in a lower gear when riding. I barely go to 6th gear.
I always shift at 3000 RPM and never run the RPMs below 2000 RPM except in first gear...
That is almost lugging the engine. Do 2500 minimum, and up to 4k or so before shifting. One advantage to this is more oil moving around. You won't really hurt the engine unless you're up around 6k all the time.
@@derfskittlers6125 engine is not lugging at all around 2,000 RPM... I have been riding for 40+ years on many makes and models. but I do appreciate your input. : - )
Not so much putting stress on the pistons, your putting to much demand on the fly wheel bearings. Lugging the motor you can actually hear the stress placed upon the bottom end of the motor. The transmission will take a beating also. Lugging the motor is a no no. If your any kind of experienced rider, again you can actually hear the moving parts start to chatter. During oil changes you can see metal shavings on the magnetized oil plug. A sign the owner is a lugger, so to speak.
I disagree, theres more to it than "lugging is bad" Find a BSFC chart (brake specific fuel consumption) for your engine. It will show you the general range and loading the engine runs best at, if you can find them because they are difficult to find. If you can't find it, you have to go off crank / cylinder geometry and flame speed. That aside, I hyper-mile vehicles as a hobby and the best efficiency comes at "lugging" in the sweet spot on the chart, matching or FAILING SPEED.
When youre talking about damage and lugging, you should be more concerned about oil and coolant pressures / balancing at lower rpms... I've had more issues managing that on my projects while keeping the engine in range.
Not sure why you disagree. He said all the same things you just did.
Nicely explained, Alf.
My FLSTSI manual goes in 10s beginning at 15.
1-2 (15)
2-3 (25)
3-4 (35)
4-5 (45)
Coming down, 5mph less
5-4 (40)
4-3 (30)
3-2 (20)
2-1 (10)
The main problem with the softail line is that they typically don't have a tachometer. I personally believe that your method of 12s is good... at least if it's wrong it's favoring the correct error (higher revs per gear). But, the math is harder; 10's is easier.
Yes, lugging an engine, especially an air-cooled Harley, is the worst. Just don't do it. Aah, the downside of manual shifting.
😢 13:39
PS edit: ...another thing, if on a long down grade you can compress the shifting without lugging, whilst on the other hand if you're on a long up hill climb you'll need to stretch out the shifting to avoid lugging.
A wife is just as resistant to cooking and what not after the wedding cae
Lots of heat, blowby, bottome end noise, forcing them to do something they dont want to do!
PRetty soon they drop a cylinder and that wet crankase runs dry forever!
(exit,,,stage left, saaay!)
😊👍🙏