For sure that’s a big thing for me, the clean up is much less on abrasive wheel but I do cut metal with diamond blades if I get lazy and I’m cutting screws off small metal objects.
The abrasive disc is cutting all of the different materials a lot quicker, so I'm guessing it's eating up more material quicker causing more sparks. And as everyone else has pointed out, the abrasive disc leaves a cleaner cut. I'll stick with the abrasive disc! Thanks for the video, you saved me money.😅
Looks like the abrasive wheel cuts faster and leaves a smoother cut. I’m not sold on those I’ve used a diamond blade and found it took a long time to cut through the material I was using
I suppose it depends on the type of work you're doing, but the abrasive cutoff wheel produced a much cleaner cut, and although it's hard to see in the video, I'm assuming it has a narrower kerf as well. For metal fabrication work, I'd go with an abrasive cutoff wheel all day long.
The amount of sparking isn't a very fair comparison, since the abrasive disks are clearly eating more metal. The cuts appear cleaner as well, with the abrasive disks. A metal cutting disk would, IMO, be better for cutting cast that is to be welded. I have read that grinding disks create a layer of carbon adding even more carbon to the weld, making it even more likely to break. A metal toothed cutting wheel or even a carbide burr, cuts/removes metal from cast without creating a layer of carbon buildup. I get that abrasive disks tend to cut cast better/faster. Perhaps a quick grinding of the abrasive wheel cut area, with a carbide burr will do the trick. Update: Abrasive disks do not cut a "kerf". They grind a grove. Disks with teeth, and straight tools with teeth, woodworking or metal, create a kerf cut that is wider than the body of the blade. My chain saws make a kerf cut. Abrasive disks DO NOT make a kerf cut, and because of this, when you chop into metal with an abrasive disk, the sides of your disks get prematurely and unnecessarily worn out. If you do sliding gouging cuts, using mainly the edge of abrasive disks, you will get way more cuts. Each cut may take a bit longer this way, but disks are expensive too. I also think much less heat is produced by slide gouging, rather than chopping, or cutting straight through. Less heat in the metal and the disk. Anyway...abrasive disks don't make a kerf or a unless you move your grinder around a bit as you grind, or your angle grinder shakes a bunch lol Fussy aren't I? Well, abrasive disks don't make cuts either. They don't cut, not really; unless you consider that the particles in the disk that scratch/grind metal away...are cutting??? I suppose there are some abrasive grinding disks(PFERD) using ceramics that "cut" better scratches lol
abrasive is faster, BUT one should always have a backup wheel that is a metal substrate as they are unlikely to break and won't leave you stranded .. remote locations/Sunday nights.
Didnt watch video yet but my experience with these types of blades is Pros- maintain full depth of cut through out life of blade, safer (wont shatter), good for thinner material, less wheel changes (longer life if not abused) Cons- slower cut (but maybe faster in very thin) cost (at least upfront), doesnt like material too thick (would stay under 1/4" thick in my opinion), cut not as clean, less sparks but get more actual metal shavings you get hit with would rather get hit with sparks in my opinion O and they def rebranded lenox metal max wheels lol. For me i primarily stick with abrasives but i always try to have one of these on the truck just in case as well.
Another thought on the resin bond abrasive blades-as they wear down you are BREATHING that fine dust and it gets EVERYWHERE.The carbide blade saws only make the coarse metal shavinglike"sawdust"That is easier to cleanup.
that is what I am thinking, sure you might wear a respirator but is the guy working just down from you wearing one? it seems to me over a life time the diamond blade would be much healthier
The major benefit I see is safety. They last longer in theory but I find every diamond blade I have had other than tile saw blades stops cutting well after a few cuts. I'm always afraid of an abrasive wheel catching something, shattering and ending up in my gut or my face.
Clearly the abrasive wheel is faster and cleaner in its cut. They both throw enough sparks for any situation that spark would be dangerous. No matter what you are cutting, if it is work, you want things done quicker and cleaner. Also, If these things were sent to you out of the blue and you are not sponsored by them then don't make excuses for it's deficiencies. As for safety, If you use the tools properly you'll have no issues. I try to teach my new guys all the time how to use the cut off wheel correctly. I personally haven't broken a cut off wheel in over three years. In that instance I was rushing to finish the job.
I've worked with a lot of different diamond saws and wheels. Here is the 411...diamond wheels will last much much longer as long as you don't abuse them. Apply very light pressure and let the wheel cut at the rate it wants to. As you push a diamond wheel harder, you start to dislodge the diamonds in the wheel. The wheels will cost more up front, but they will outlast the abrasive wheels by far. Of course, they cons, they do cut slower
Note that one can optimize very much the lifetime of an abrasive blade by paying attention to the cutting forces applied!!! In optimal conditions the grains should cut until they are dull, and then they should be released by the binding agent. These conditions can only be applied when paying very much attention to the applied forces. 90% of us work too aggressive with these disks. A colleague technician of mine was freaked on this. He never had the quickest cutting and deburring speed, but he did the most job on a day! His disks (from same make) did last on average 3 times longer. The others worked slower because they had to make more disk exchanges.
I'm 57 years old and had a cutting wheel break apart on me for the first time a week ago. I'm lucky I had thick gloves on or my new nick name would have been 9 fingers. Finger is bruised all the way down to the middle of my hand and still hurts like a mofo. I'll be looking at these blades as an alternative.
I try to use cut off wheels as little as possible. I will plasma cut or us a cold saw. This seems like an improvement over an abrasive because there will be less abrasive dust in the shop getting in Precision parts Like the ways of a lathe or mill or the guide rails on the cnc machines
Seems like the regular wheel cuts smoother with a cleaner cut then the diamond blade what brand cutter wheel did you say that the regular ones are that you get from the welding supply
Metal fab, I use abrasives a lot. If I need to cut something I don't usually resort to an angle grinder unless I don't have other options. I have a chop saw for cuts, plasma cutter etc.
@Chase Williams Unless its a specialty application, I'd say stick with standard abrasives and cutting blades. The diamond abrasives like what Pferd offers work nice but aren't cost effective for most applications IMO (Pferd is super expensive). Sometimes you have to experiment on your own to see what works best for you. The chop saw I have is equipped with a blade specifically for metal, and cuts accurately. If you work with steel sheets, I'd recommend a saw for ripping. There are various options for that. Invest in good PPE, use it and keep burning!
I have thrown out every one of these metal/diamond blades that I have tried.....won't even try them again. The cleanup is more important than the cut. The diamond wheels melt the metal and don't remove the material. You will need to grind it away.....with a grinder.
Id use the abrasive wheel for rough cut sruff, cutting off bolts, etc that doesnt require precision. I just bought one to try because it looked like something cool to try and I like the idea of it not shattering. For clean cuts that need little cleanup after, I will stick with abrasive discs. I think there is anplace for both in my shop amd Ill keep one on a grinder all the time. Thanks for the video
I use and love the Lennox “Metal Max” diamond cut off wheels. They look exactly like these in every way except the name. Same color, same graphics, literally same everything but the name. Are these just renamed Lennox Metal Max wheels?
I tried to find one of these in the UK years ago, could not. Can’t remember whyfor now. I’ll remember to look out for one. Now let’s have a look at that look at that uncuttable lock someone was making a pigs ear out of cutting a few weeks back !
I don't see a point in using anything else than abrasive wheels for kutting metal. They're the fastest, they produce the least amount of tear on the material, and they cost pennies. Why spend 10-50x as much for a diamond wheel when you can do the same thing better, faster and cheaper? Diamonds are for tiles and other hard, brittle masonry.
Was really hoping to see how it did on the M12 3" cutoff tool. Really wish Milwaukee would make a M18 version that has the power or the regular fuel grinder!
Exploding abrasive cutting wheels have been mentioned several time in these comments, I gave those a Like. I always worry about the cutting wheels exploding. I'm just a hobbyists in my garage. With the info from this video I think I'm going to consider the daimond wheel. I would hate to ruin my weekend, or more, with a trip to the ER for a hobby. I appreciate this video
The general rule is to never never use diamond for cutting steel!!! The reason is diamond suffers very hard from the carbon in the steel with which it makes strong bonds during grinding and gets very quickly destroyed and dull. They must have put a very thick layer of diamonds to make it survive this long.
I used to work at Siemens mobility in one week they had a try that because it was safer quote on quote but it didn't last a week just like you said the blade would get dull and wouldn't cut and would take forever compared to a regular cutting disc
ok so heres what i have noticed, it takes longer to cut, it makes greater noise when cutting, it leaves a heavy bur that you will need to clean, and as you use it it dulls away making all the above much worse, second even if the abrezive wheal starts to shrink with proper techniq you can cut much larger object simply by twisting the object, and when you ar cutting thicker material it is always better to use a chopsaw with an abrezive or carbide blade, I prefer the carbide blades for my projects, they ar best suited as they cut fast enough clean with less noise and with less sparks, and i use the grinder only for small stuff, I dont need a bandsaw as my projects dont involve the need of a bandsaw, srry for my bad english its not my native language and it has been a lot of time since school
Dang if I knew about their cutting blade I would of definitely would get some. Do they make cutting blades for stainless steel cause normal blades don't hold up to it.
Would like to have seen you cut some 0.090-0.156" plate or SS. Curious about blade wander/difficulty of cutting straight line & overall performance. 8-9 yrs ago, I got caught short on a metal roofing project & had to modify some precut 0.110" SS flashing. Was geared up for sheet metal, not steel fab. I had a worn out 7" diamond wet tile saw blade in the bottom of a tool box I'd taken off my saw when it started chipping glaze; still had visible diamond on it. 'Wonder if that'll cut stainless?' I threw it on my ancient beater Skil 77 worm drive that gets all the chit jobs & it got the job done w/ a bit of noise & some red hot slag. 77 didn't over heat & die, so it was a win. Got home, cobbled a compr'd air cooling line pointed at the cut point & started using it. I've cut 200-250 linear feet since then & the old dead blade is still workin'. A dead blade, designed for tile... I've been waiting for the diamond blade industry to catch up, & it looks like they're getting close. The OK blade design is very much like a masonary blade, which is interesting, & needs to improve, as well as grit size needs to drop for better cuts. I have an 8" beam saw I made from a '50's era cast iron DeWalt radial arm saw, (no radial mvmnt, just vert), I use w/ carbide & 0.060" abrasive blades. When the 0.060" abrasives get to 5", they go to the side grinder, then to the die grinder. Even have some 10" 0.060's that've started the same cycle on my table saw, (cut some mighty fine, straight & perpendicular, finish cuts to close dimension in 0.50" A36 tool steel w/ it.) On both the table & beam saws, I use blade supports made from '60's era, thick-azz plywood blades cut/turned to dia. Makes the 0.060 safer & much stiffer. Have tried a number of steel cutting carbide blades; not impressed w/ life. I regrind old, thick, pos rake, carbide wood blades to a neutral rake & get 80% of the life out of a junk blade vs $35-45 for a new blade; takes 15 min to regrind one, if I do them in batches. Was just considering a diamond blade, last week, but will give the industry another yr or so to mature. As someone who's been dealing w/ cancer for 3+ yrs, the abrasive particulate in shop air is no joke. For you or co-workers. Who knows if the throat cancer I have was furthered from 50 yrs of grinding/cutting w/ abrasives. 1st 20-25 yrs lung protection was a joke; might as well tie a thick gym sock on yer melon, (new 1, of course!). But, if diamond can cut down on abrasive dust, it's a good thing. You do not want to deal w/ throat, lung, or any, cancer. At least wear a good, REAL respirator, not a paper cup. Diamond's the future...
Between both cutting wheels the abrasive is best kept at the shop, They are too fragile to take to the job and they wear down. The diamond slow leaves a big bur but can be banged around without much effects. A band saw is much better then both. Either abrasive wheel can work harden the material your cutting They both leave a bur they both throw sparks you can start a fire with either unit welding on a construction sight not something you would do with a bandsaw. Yes the metal gets warm but not that hot you cant pick it up after you cut it. Now if someone made a 4" grinder that had speed adjustment and a simple bandsaw type blade or even a wire you put around the part your going to cut that would be better. The wire would work like a saw in a granite mine the wire stays stright becuse its in a taught line that keeps it stright you either use oil or a coolent to cut.
the abrasive wheel cuts, sands and it looks to be thinner which gives cleaner and quicker cuts. they could adjust the metal wheel to do the same by changing the design a little. that's if you need that.
After 55 years of working with steel, stainless steel, aluminum and other metals. Friction saw , cut off wheels and diamond. May be handy to work with. They are more dangerous than plasma and oxygen: acetylene torch.. Saws are very good for square cuts and easier to clean. Friction Saws blades have a tendency to blow apart. Handheld can grab and bind .
I use the Lennox Blades and they work great. The link you provided (2 years ago) is not available any longer. Over time things go away or are no longer the focus of the manufacturer so they stop selling them. There are other brands beyond Lennox, but they haven't let me down yet, and I have 3 in reserve because the original is still not worn out.
I would love to see weather the amount pf sparks becomes comparable if you speed the ok diamond wheel up so your getting the same cut time as a conventional wheel As its cutting slower its naturally going to produce less sparks as its removilg less meterial The only grinder i would consider using a diamond wheel for cutting would be a 230mm grinder as theee cu55ing discks tend to be thicker requiring more meterial to be removed per cut and the cost of blades is increased due to size also 🤔 But with a 4.5" 5" i want small 1mm disc fast and clean cut less prep time with a 230mm 9" i can run through rough stock
Diablo steel demon 7 1/4" blade on 5400 rpm skill saw will cut 1/4" plate and thicker, clean straight and a little slower than cutting wood, forget small disks of any kind for long cuts
Ya I have a Lenox Dimond blade that works fine for me as often as I use it and it's often in a bag and won't break like a regular cut off wheel and very little risk of it flying apart but the one annoying thing is when I got that blade like in clearance or something and on my cordless Milwaukee angle grinder it wouldn't tighten up enough the blade could still spin easily around the shank so I don't know if it was a problem with the blade or I got the angle grinder from a pawn shop so I didn't have it new but I got a big like 7/8 or 5/8 washer maybe I don't remember but then it's fine
Thin abrasive disc. I have that diamond metal disc and it’s 3-5 times slower. I had to cut out some 1/4” steel and the diamond took forever. The diamond does cut cooler with less sparks
The abrasive blade is the best.sorry,but the diamond wheel leaves rough edges and slower.we will stick with the abrasive wheels on our cutters thank you
The diamond wheels looks like it takes a Little while to cut metal but I'm looking for safety i don't want a fiber wheel breaking flying at my face or other people just caused i am in a hurry projects take time not speed ❤
Yes, they are a little slower, but you don't ever have to replace them. And you definitely don't have to worry about them coming apart. Thanks for watching, as always.
The only thing for me is all that slag left on material after a cut. But I love the fact that it would last much longer. Looks like once you get all that red powder coat off the diamond wheel it cuts better.
Cutting steel with an abrasive wheel is faster, but you need to keep replacing the cutting discs. For cutting steel at a 45 degree angle, it is better to use a diamond cutting wheel, since that blade is more rigid and will not bend or break and will give a more accurate cut.
I agree with you on this. I was not impressed with OK Diamond. The cuts were cleaner and faster with the grinding wheel. As for the 45° cuts, when would you use an angle grinder for a precision cut? Unless you have an attachment that can hold the grinder like a chop saw, the flex could be minimized by going slower and taking your time.
Could use an abrasive wheel on a chop saw all week can this wheel do that . That’s what u need to show longevity at the end is what matters one wheel does it all cuts grinds all without changing wheel great vid
i like sparks and clean cuts. :) Diamond would probably work with more material types though. It would be a great backup. If the diamond wheel replaced 50 plus abrasive disks it might be worth a look as well.
Diablo & Evaluation "cold & dry cut" carbine hands down ! the matter of which last longer is to be addressed ? The cold & dry cut carbide will cut rail-road track, I've witness this on UA-cam ! Will this sharpen carbine blade teeth such as stump grinder teeth etc. etc. being that it is a diamond blade ?
Abrasive wheel looks like it cut much faster and way cleaner. Also I have a bosh grinder with the x-lock which is muchmore convenient to use especially when welding you can switch from a wire wheel to a cuttoff or grinding disc in a few seconds without tools.Ill never own another grinder that requires tools again.
Abrasive wheels have their advantages but they certainly aren’t the best way to cut metal stock, my band saw still cuts the majority of my stock as it leave’s nearly no cleanup of the stock before placement & I can walk away while it’s working..also no airborne dust & so much more quite .
The metal blades are ok for some stuff. They don't break when you throw them in your van and pile tools on top of them. Are they good for everything. Hell no, not by a long shot. I keep one for a backup though.
Hmmm more material... Guessing the abrasive disk is wider ? Seems way faster too... Comparing sparks for something that cuts slower doesn't feel fair to me.
Total garbage cut from the ok diamond blade ! Depending on the use of your pipe . Now you gotta debur the inside and out side of the tube . And it takes twice as long to cut ! The 1/8 inch pipe was a horrible cut . Major clean up required with the ok diamond wheel ! Abrasive wheel puts off more sparks cause its cutting faster and cleaner . Now on the all thread , you could of started a nut with NO clean up on the abrasive wheel cut . Good luck cleaning up the all thread with the ok diamond wheel . No Thanks ! Ill stick to my Mercer abrasive cut off wheels ! Great video ! You proved the abrasive is by far superior ! Ben using abrasive 7" wheels for 40 years now . I like the 7" wheels because i can cut all the way through 2" steel in a single cut from one side !
A better alternative to a grinder for cutting metal-Both DeWalt and Milwaukee make carbide metal cut circular saws-faster smoother,cooler and NO sparks! Evolution Tools make metal cut miter saws that can cut BOTH wood and metal with the same blade.And with these saw machines no burring or burning-finish milled cuts.
Meaning they emailed us and asked if they could send us some cutting wheels to try. In all fairness, this was the first time we've seen a company send the competitors wheel with it as well. Thanks for watching.
Skipped ahead and stopped early but the OG is better. The new one doesn’t seem to be better in any useful ways. Every time I’ve had an issue with the cut off disk it was when using it improperly. Respect your tool’s ability to kill you and you are fine.
I tried 2 of them and don’t like them (don’t remember the brand). They are very noisy, produce lot of heat, don’t make clean cuts, bind up in aluminium and make a lot of dust. Two advantages : the diameter does not reduce, and they are vulnerable like normal cutting discs. The cons outweigh the pros.
Only if they are made for that material - you CAN NOT use a diamond metal blade on masonry, or visa-versa, So you are misinformed if you think otherwise.
It looks like the abrasive wheel leaves a smoother cut compared to the OK diamond blade leaves more of a burr
true and it seems to take longer to cut
I tried the Lenox dimand cutting wheel I wasn't impressed. I guess the up side is it doesn't wear down
Bought the blade for a chop saw, was not impressed with the cut
Yeah, all the diamond blades I've used are the same and they definitely cut slower than regular cutoff wheels
For sure that’s a big thing for me, the clean up is much less on abrasive wheel but I do cut metal with diamond blades if I get lazy and I’m cutting screws off small metal objects.
The abrasive disc is cutting all of the different materials a lot quicker, so I'm guessing it's eating up more material quicker causing more sparks. And as everyone else has pointed out, the abrasive disc leaves a cleaner cut. I'll stick with the abrasive disc! Thanks for the video, you saved me money.😅
Not a scientist here, I'm pretty sure it's eating the same amount of material but quicker (not including the loss of the disc) 😉
Looks like the abrasive wheel cuts faster and leaves a smoother cut. I’m not sold on those I’ve used a diamond blade and found it took a long time to cut through the material I was using
Negatory
Do you have a video on those vise-grip type pliers and holders? Never seen those but they look like a Great tool. Any info is greatly appreciated
I suppose it depends on the type of work you're doing, but the abrasive cutoff wheel produced a much cleaner cut, and although it's hard to see in the video, I'm assuming it has a narrower kerf as well. For metal fabrication work, I'd go with an abrasive cutoff wheel all day long.
Also the abrasive disc works in a pinch for cleaning a side up for welding. It’s just more versatile.
I also think it’s the operator. This man cutting like it’s mad max. No one looking for a good cut should do it like him
The amount of sparking isn't a very fair comparison, since the abrasive disks are clearly eating more metal. The cuts appear cleaner as well, with the abrasive disks.
A metal cutting disk would, IMO, be better for cutting cast that is to be welded. I have read that grinding disks create a layer of carbon adding even more carbon to the weld, making it even more likely to break. A metal toothed cutting wheel or even a carbide burr, cuts/removes metal from cast without creating a layer of carbon buildup.
I get that abrasive disks tend to cut cast better/faster. Perhaps a quick grinding of the abrasive wheel cut area, with a carbide burr will do the trick.
Update:
Abrasive disks do not cut a "kerf". They grind a grove.
Disks with teeth, and straight tools with teeth, woodworking or metal, create a kerf cut that is wider than the body of the blade. My chain saws make a kerf cut. Abrasive disks DO NOT make a kerf cut, and because of this, when you chop into metal with an abrasive disk, the sides of your disks get prematurely and unnecessarily worn out. If you do sliding gouging cuts, using mainly the edge of abrasive disks, you will get way more cuts. Each cut may take a bit longer this way, but disks are expensive too. I also think much less heat is produced by slide gouging, rather than chopping, or cutting straight through. Less heat in the metal and the disk. Anyway...abrasive disks don't make a kerf or a unless you move your grinder around a bit as you grind, or your angle grinder shakes a bunch lol
Fussy aren't I? Well, abrasive disks don't make cuts either. They don't cut, not really; unless you consider that the particles in the disk that scratch/grind metal away...are cutting???
I suppose there are some abrasive grinding disks(PFERD) using ceramics that "cut" better scratches lol
abrasive is faster, BUT one should always have a backup wheel that is a metal substrate as they are unlikely to break and won't leave you stranded .. remote locations/Sunday nights.
I use 1mm slitting discs. They need careful use (and cannot be used for grinding) but they cut fast with a narrow kerf.
What kind of clamp did you use to secure the pipe to workbench
Didnt watch video yet but my experience with these types of blades is
Pros- maintain full depth of cut through out life of blade, safer (wont shatter), good for thinner material, less wheel changes (longer life if not abused)
Cons- slower cut (but maybe faster in very thin) cost (at least upfront), doesnt like material too thick (would stay under 1/4" thick in my opinion), cut not as clean, less sparks but get more actual metal shavings you get hit with would rather get hit with sparks in my opinion
O and they def rebranded lenox metal max wheels lol.
For me i primarily stick with abrasives but i always try to have one of these on the truck just in case as well.
You took the words out of my mouth. Agree with every point.
Haha. Who comments BEFORE they watch the video? Why?
@@lylewaters6161 Me. Because I know all.
I'm impressed for all the demonstration that you did ..Thank you for sharing keep up the good work .
What clamps did you use in the video? Did you make them or purchase them? Thanks. Great video.
I was going to ask the same question.
Definitely cool they both have their pros and cons. Something that i would keep my eye on.
It might be viable for cutting sheet metal.
What type of table clamps are those?
Another thought on the resin bond abrasive blades-as they wear down you are BREATHING that fine dust and it gets EVERYWHERE.The carbide blade saws only make the coarse metal shavinglike"sawdust"That is easier to cleanup.
that is what I am thinking, sure you might wear a respirator but is the guy working just down from you wearing one? it seems to me over a life time the diamond blade would be much healthier
The major benefit I see is safety. They last longer in theory but I find every diamond blade I have had other than tile saw blades stops cutting well after a few cuts. I'm always afraid of an abrasive wheel catching something, shattering and ending up in my gut or my face.
Could you share where nose nifty vise grip bench clamps came from?
What's the tool holding the vise crip
Clearly the abrasive wheel is faster and cleaner in its cut. They both throw enough sparks for any situation that spark would be dangerous. No matter what you are cutting, if it is work, you want things done quicker and cleaner. Also, If these things were sent to you out of the blue and you are not sponsored by them then don't make excuses for it's deficiencies. As for safety, If you use the tools properly you'll have no issues. I try to teach my new guys all the time how to use the cut off wheel correctly. I personally haven't broken a cut off wheel in over three years. In that instance I was rushing to finish the job.
I've worked with a lot of different diamond saws and wheels. Here is the 411...diamond wheels will last much much longer as long as you don't abuse them. Apply very light pressure and let the wheel cut at the rate it wants to. As you push a diamond wheel harder, you start to dislodge the diamonds in the wheel. The wheels will cost more up front, but they will outlast the abrasive wheels by far. Of course, they cons, they do cut slower
I would like to know the brand of those locking pliers.
Note that one can optimize very much the lifetime of an abrasive blade by paying attention to the cutting forces applied!!! In optimal conditions the grains should cut until they are dull, and then they should be released by the binding agent. These conditions can only be applied when paying very much attention to the applied forces. 90% of us work too aggressive with these disks. A colleague technician of mine was freaked on this. He never had the quickest cutting and deburring speed, but he did the most job on a day! His disks (from same make) did last on average 3 times longer. The others worked slower because they had to make more disk exchanges.
I'm 57 years old and had a cutting wheel break apart on me for the first time a week ago. I'm lucky I had thick gloves on or my new nick name would have been 9 fingers. Finger is bruised all the way down to the middle of my hand and still hurts like a mofo. I'll be looking at these blades as an alternative.
You have the guard on? I'm terrified of this happening.
Hi. Can you tell me the name of those vice grip table adapters? I’ve been trying different search words but can’t find them for sale. Thanks
Hello! where can I get the set of pliers your using to hold the material you are cutting?
I try to use cut off wheels as little as possible. I will plasma cut or us a cold saw. This seems like an improvement over an abrasive because there will be less abrasive dust in the shop getting in Precision parts Like the ways of a lathe or mill or the guide rails on the cnc machines
Cold cut saws get expensive after a while, but are damn nice!
Seems like the regular wheel cuts smoother with a cleaner cut then the diamond blade what brand cutter wheel did you say that the regular ones are that you get from the welding supply
The Diamond wheel has way less sparks that's a plus
Diamond dust is the worst kind of dust to breath , look it up its no joke , never dry cut with these tools
It's not diamond, it's just called diamond. Diamond 2 for $10 LOL.
@@orsoncart9441Trust me grinder dusts are nasty. You need real protection for the lungs and eyes.
Something I noticed the cut was much cleaner on the abrasive wheel
Metal fab, I use abrasives a lot. If I need to cut something I don't usually resort to an angle grinder unless I don't have other options. I have a chop saw for cuts, plasma cutter etc.
@Chase Williams Unless its a specialty application, I'd say stick with standard abrasives and cutting blades.
The diamond abrasives like what Pferd offers work nice but aren't cost effective for most applications IMO (Pferd is super expensive). Sometimes you have to experiment on your own to see what works best for you.
The chop saw I have is equipped with a blade specifically for metal, and cuts accurately.
If you work with steel sheets, I'd recommend a saw for ripping. There are various options for that. Invest in good PPE, use it and keep burning!
I have thrown out every one of these metal/diamond blades that I have tried.....won't even try them again. The cleanup is more important than the cut. The diamond wheels melt the metal and don't remove the material. You will need to grind it away.....with a grinder.
Id use the abrasive wheel for rough cut sruff, cutting off bolts, etc that doesnt require precision. I just bought one to try because it looked like something cool to try and I like the idea of it not shattering. For clean cuts that need little cleanup after, I will stick with abrasive discs. I think there is anplace for both in my shop amd Ill keep one on a grinder all the time. Thanks for the video
I use and love the Lennox “Metal Max” diamond cut off wheels. They look exactly like these in every way except the name. Same color, same graphics, literally same everything but the name. Are these just renamed Lennox Metal Max wheels?
I tried to find one of these in the UK years ago, could not. Can’t remember whyfor now. I’ll remember to look out for one. Now let’s have a look at that look at that uncuttable lock someone was making a pigs ear out of cutting a few weeks back !
Do the clamps work only with the grip-on pliers or can you use any locking pliers?🎃🎃
The M12 Fuel bandsaw is the best for cutting conduit and unistrut
I don't see a point in using anything else than abrasive wheels for kutting metal. They're the fastest, they produce the least amount of tear on the material, and they cost pennies. Why spend 10-50x as much for a diamond wheel when you can do the same thing better, faster and cheaper?
Diamonds are for tiles and other hard, brittle masonry.
If you want shite all over the workshop use abrasive wheels.
What are those table vise grips you used @3:18? Those r cool
Was really hoping to see how it did on the M12 3" cutoff tool.
Really wish Milwaukee would make a M18 version that has the power or the regular fuel grinder!
They will. Dewalt has a 20V version and makita just released their 18V version
Can it be used to cut granite, marble and ceramic like for counter tops? You only showed a steel cutting demo.
Exploding abrasive cutting wheels have been mentioned several time in these comments, I gave those a Like. I always worry about the cutting wheels exploding. I'm just a hobbyists in my garage. With the info from this video I think I'm going to consider the daimond wheel. I would hate to ruin my weekend, or more, with a trip to the ER for a hobby. I appreciate this video
Get your helper to do all the cutting and grinding. (kids, wife)
Remember, self safety is number 1. :)
LOL!!! @@seeharvester
The general rule is to never never use diamond for cutting steel!!! The reason is diamond suffers very hard from the carbon in the steel with which it makes strong bonds during grinding and gets very quickly destroyed and dull. They must have put a very thick layer of diamonds to make it survive this long.
I used to work at Siemens mobility in one week they had a try that because it was safer quote on quote but it didn't last a week just like you said the blade would get dull and wouldn't cut and would take forever compared to a regular cutting disc
ok so heres what i have noticed, it takes longer to cut, it makes greater noise when cutting, it leaves a heavy bur that you will need to clean, and as you use it it dulls away making all the above much worse, second even if the abrezive wheal starts to shrink with proper techniq you can cut much larger object simply by twisting the object, and when you ar cutting thicker material it is always better to use a chopsaw with an abrezive or carbide blade, I prefer the carbide blades for my projects, they ar best suited as they cut fast enough clean with less noise and with less sparks, and i use the grinder only for small stuff, I dont need a bandsaw as my projects dont involve the need of a bandsaw, srry for my bad english its not my native language and it has been a lot of time since school
@florinurda. Thanks for pointing out the safer alternative. Everything has it's use but reducing risk of injury is best practice and investment.
Looks like a good way to go. I'll be watching for them
Dang if I knew about their cutting blade I would of definitely would get some. Do they make cutting blades for stainless steel cause normal blades don't hold up to it.
Would like to have seen you cut some 0.090-0.156" plate or SS.
Curious about blade wander/difficulty of cutting straight line & overall performance.
8-9 yrs ago, I got caught short on a metal roofing project & had to modify some precut 0.110" SS flashing. Was geared up for sheet metal, not steel fab.
I had a worn out 7" diamond wet tile saw blade in the bottom of a tool box I'd taken off my saw when it started chipping glaze; still had visible diamond on it.
'Wonder if that'll cut stainless?'
I threw it on my ancient beater Skil 77 worm drive that gets all the chit jobs & it got the job done w/ a bit of noise & some red hot slag. 77 didn't over heat & die, so it was a win.
Got home, cobbled a compr'd air cooling line pointed at the cut point & started using it.
I've cut 200-250 linear feet since then & the old dead blade is still workin'. A dead blade, designed for tile...
I've been waiting for the diamond blade industry to catch up, & it looks like they're getting close.
The OK blade design is very much like a masonary blade, which is interesting, & needs to improve, as well as grit size needs to drop for better cuts.
I have an 8" beam saw I made from a '50's era cast iron DeWalt radial arm saw, (no radial mvmnt, just vert), I use w/ carbide & 0.060" abrasive blades.
When the 0.060" abrasives get to 5", they go to the side grinder, then to the die grinder.
Even have some 10" 0.060's that've started the same cycle on my table saw, (cut some mighty fine, straight & perpendicular, finish cuts to close dimension in 0.50" A36 tool steel w/ it.)
On both the table & beam saws, I use blade supports made from '60's era, thick-azz plywood blades cut/turned to dia. Makes the 0.060 safer & much stiffer.
Have tried a number of steel cutting carbide blades; not impressed w/ life. I regrind old, thick, pos rake, carbide wood blades to a neutral rake & get 80% of the life out of a junk blade vs $35-45 for a new blade; takes 15 min to regrind one, if I do them in batches.
Was just considering a diamond blade, last week, but will give the industry another yr or so to mature.
As someone who's been dealing w/ cancer for 3+ yrs, the abrasive particulate in shop air is no joke. For you or co-workers.
Who knows if the throat cancer I have was furthered from 50 yrs of grinding/cutting w/ abrasives. 1st 20-25 yrs lung protection was a joke; might as well tie a thick gym sock on yer melon, (new 1, of course!).
But, if diamond can cut down on abrasive dust, it's a good thing. You do not want to deal w/ throat, lung, or any, cancer. At least wear a good, REAL respirator, not a paper cup.
Diamond's the future...
drj westfield wisconsin what about black pipeline? Can you cut it down the center of the pipe?.
Between both cutting wheels the abrasive is best kept at the shop,
They are too fragile to take to the job and they wear down.
The diamond slow leaves a big bur but can be banged around without much effects.
A band saw is much better then both.
Either abrasive wheel can work harden the material your cutting
They both leave a bur they both throw sparks you can start a fire with either unit welding on a construction sight not something you would do with a bandsaw.
Yes the metal gets warm but not that hot you cant pick it up after you cut it.
Now if someone made a 4" grinder that had speed adjustment and a simple bandsaw type blade or even a wire you put around the part your going to cut that would be better.
The wire would work like a saw in a granite mine the wire stays stright becuse its in a taught line that keeps it stright you either use oil or a coolent to cut.
I'm new to all this. Would a Diablo blade be a better comparison to the OK Diamond blade? I would love to see a comparison.
curious if you have any examples of linear cuts of 4' to 8' or using a fence compared to free hand. Thanks for sharing
the abrasive wheel cuts, sands and it looks to be thinner which gives cleaner and quicker cuts. they could adjust the metal wheel to do the same by changing the design a little. that's if you need that.
After 55 years of working with steel, stainless steel, aluminum and other metals. Friction saw , cut off wheels and diamond. May be handy to work with. They are more dangerous than plasma and oxygen: acetylene torch.. Saws are very good for square cuts and easier to clean. Friction Saws blades have a tendency to blow apart. Handheld can grab and bind .
What is that Milwaukee temperature gun model number?
I use the Lennox Blades and they work great. The link you provided (2 years ago) is not available any longer. Over time things go away or are no longer the focus of the manufacturer so they stop selling them. There are other brands beyond Lennox, but they haven't let me down yet, and I have 3 in reserve because the original is still not worn out.
How does it work on aluminum?
If you use the thinner abrassive discs that most metal workers use, you can cut even faster
Faster and cleaner cut from the abrasive
Abrasive wheel was faster and cleaner; and I'll bet a lot less expensive.
Love the vid Tim. The editing was awesome buddy. Great job man
I would love to see weather the amount pf sparks becomes comparable if you speed the ok diamond wheel up so your getting the same cut time as a conventional wheel
As its cutting slower its naturally going to produce less sparks as its removilg less meterial
The only grinder i would consider using a diamond wheel for cutting would be a 230mm grinder as theee cu55ing discks tend to be thicker requiring more meterial to be removed per cut and the cost of blades is increased due to size also 🤔
But with a 4.5" 5" i want small 1mm disc fast and clean cut less prep time with a 230mm 9" i can run through rough stock
The abrasive definitely leaves a smoother, better finish. I definitely would like to try it, but I'm not sold on it.
Liked to see how it Cuts some 1/4”x 6” flat stock . Was it just me but did the Ok diamond seem like it was struggling on the 1”square.
Diablo steel demon 7 1/4" blade on 5400 rpm skill saw will cut 1/4" plate and thicker, clean straight and a little slower than cutting wood, forget small disks of any kind for long cuts
Thanks for the info - very well done, sir.
Ya I have a Lenox Dimond blade that works fine for me as often as I use it and it's often in a bag and won't break like a regular cut off wheel and very little risk of it flying apart but the one annoying thing is when I got that blade like in clearance or something and on my cordless Milwaukee angle grinder it wouldn't tighten up enough the blade could still spin easily around the shank so I don't know if it was a problem with the blade or I got the angle grinder from a pawn shop so I didn't have it new but I got a big like 7/8 or 5/8 washer maybe I don't remember but then it's fine
Thin abrasive disc. I have that diamond metal disc and it’s 3-5 times slower. I had to cut out some 1/4” steel and the diamond took forever. The diamond does cut cooler with less sparks
The abrasive blade is the best.sorry,but the diamond wheel leaves rough edges and slower.we will stick with the abrasive wheels on our cutters thank you
The diamond wheels looks like it takes a Little while to cut metal but I'm looking for safety i don't want a fiber wheel breaking flying at my face or other people just caused i am in a hurry projects take time not speed
❤
I've been using a blade exactly like this made by Lenox for about a year they are much better than abrasive cutting wheels
Yes, they are a little slower, but you don't ever have to replace them. And you definitely don't have to worry about them coming apart. Thanks for watching, as always.
The only thing for me is all that slag left on material after a cut. But I love the fact that it would last much longer. Looks like once you get all that red powder coat off the diamond wheel it cuts better.
Cutting steel with an abrasive wheel is faster, but you need to keep replacing the cutting discs.
For cutting steel at a 45 degree angle, it is better to use a diamond cutting wheel, since that blade is more rigid and will not bend or break and will give a more accurate cut.
I agree with you on this. I was not impressed with OK Diamond. The cuts were cleaner and faster with the grinding wheel. As for the 45° cuts, when would you use an angle grinder for a precision cut? Unless you have an attachment that can hold the grinder like a chop saw, the flex could be minimized by going slower and taking your time.
its a lot louder and slower than the classic wheels.
Another thought: As the abrasive disk gets smaller the speed, (MPH), at the cutting edge of the blade slows down.
Can we cut wood from this diamond cutting disc? Is it safe ?
Could use an abrasive wheel on a chop saw all week can this wheel do that . That’s what u need to show longevity at the end is what matters one wheel does it all cuts grinds all without changing wheel great vid
i like sparks and clean cuts. :) Diamond would probably work with more material types though. It would be a great backup. If the diamond wheel replaced 50 plus abrasive disks it might be worth a look as well.
Diablo & Evaluation "cold & dry cut" carbine hands down ! the matter of which last longer is to be addressed ? The cold & dry cut carbide will cut rail-road track, I've witness this on UA-cam ! Will this sharpen carbine blade teeth such as stump grinder teeth etc. etc. being that it is a diamond blade ?
Wish you would have demonstrates thin sheet metal for Us body workers
please put a link to where you can buy this cut off wheels, can't find them on Amazon
OK Diamond Metal Plus Cutting Wheel: amzn.to/3nXzRDz
Cheapo blades at Harbor Freight.
Looks like the abrasive disc cuts faster way more sparks vs diamond disc.
Abrasive wheel looks like it cut much faster and way cleaner. Also I have a bosh grinder with the x-lock which is muchmore convenient to use especially when welding you can switch from a wire wheel to a cuttoff or grinding disc in a few seconds without tools.Ill never own another grinder that requires tools again.
Abrasive wheels have their advantages but they certainly aren’t the best way to cut metal stock, my band saw still cuts the majority of my stock as it leave’s nearly no cleanup of the stock before placement & I can walk away while it’s working..also no airborne dust & so much more quite .
The metal blades are ok for some stuff. They don't break when you throw them in your van and pile tools on top of them. Are they good for everything. Hell no, not by a long shot. I keep one for a backup though.
Hmmm more material... Guessing the abrasive disk is wider ? Seems way faster too... Comparing sparks for something that cuts slower doesn't feel fair to me.
I will have to buy one of these. Looks like they perform great.
Those ok Dimond looks a lot like the Lenox blades but they may not actually be making their own either
Abrasive wheel is the better performer with less cleanup (dross), but the metal wheel is the safest and longer lasting with more cleanup.
Total garbage cut from the ok diamond blade ! Depending on the use of your pipe . Now you gotta debur the inside and out side of the tube . And it takes twice as long to cut ! The 1/8 inch pipe was a horrible cut . Major clean up required with the ok diamond wheel ! Abrasive wheel puts off more sparks cause its cutting faster and cleaner . Now on the all thread , you could of started a nut with NO clean up on the abrasive wheel cut . Good luck cleaning up the all thread with the ok diamond wheel .
No Thanks !
Ill stick to my Mercer abrasive cut off wheels ! Great video ! You proved the abrasive is by far superior ! Ben using abrasive 7" wheels for 40 years now . I like the 7" wheels because i can cut all the way through 2" steel in a single cut from one side !
A better alternative to a grinder for cutting metal-Both DeWalt and Milwaukee make carbide metal cut circular saws-faster smoother,cooler and NO sparks! Evolution Tools make metal cut miter saws that can cut BOTH wood and metal with the same blade.And with these saw machines no burring or burning-finish milled cuts.
I was going to say the same thing my metal devil saw is way better than those Dimond wheels
Where can I get that sweet hat?
Some of those diamond cuts look like they were done with an axe....pretty ruff
Where us the re-bar that tells the tail
I hate when the abrasive wheel breaks and becomes shrapnel. That’s the only reason I’d buy the OK diamond cut off wheel.
I would like to see OK compaired to Lenox or Diablo
When you say they asked you guys, you mean they waived a check at you
Meaning they emailed us and asked if they could send us some cutting wheels to try. In all fairness, this was the first time we've seen a company send the competitors wheel with it as well. Thanks for watching.
i guarantee you that wheel straight from that cut is going to a lot more than 100 degrees, more like 300 or more, but cool video any ways
On sheet metal
The diamond blade makes less burn on paint
Skipped ahead and stopped early but the OG is better.
The new one doesn’t seem to be better in any useful ways.
Every time I’ve had an issue with the cut off disk it was when using it improperly. Respect your tool’s ability to kill you and you are fine.
Abrasive wheel wins at absolutely everything besides the safety issue, they are much cheaper too
Maybe better than abrasive wheels but still behind cold cut saw & bandsaw.
I tried 2 of them and don’t like them (don’t remember the brand). They are very noisy, produce lot of heat, don’t make clean cuts, bind up in aluminium and make a lot of dust. Two advantages : the diameter does not reduce, and they are vulnerable like normal cutting discs. The cons outweigh the pros.
Diamond blades also cut through cast iron, concrete and stucco.
Only if they are made for that material - you CAN NOT use a diamond metal blade on masonry, or visa-versa, So you are misinformed if you think otherwise.
@@scotty362100I've been doing it for years. It eats through concrete with rebar even.
Thank God for fast forward.
I first want to see a bed frame test before I buy one....