Sounds more like the artist being wishy-wishy than any doing of UA-cam. Although because it affects UA-cam, it is a very annoying way to be wishy-washy.
The key for a good stain finish is good sanding before applying the stain, conditioners change the color of your stain and give you no grain contrast, which is the point of staining wood.
Nicely done! you can tell this is always a hot topic by the differing opinions, but whatever you like, you've given a great, simple, clear example here. THANK YOU!
I'm so torn - I love the consistency of the stain with the conditioner, but I love how the grain pops more without...definitely something to try though, as we usually test out our stains before hitting a whole project. I've always wondered about these, and thanks to this vid, I now know more! Cheers!
Yes I agree about letting the grain pop out more. And to do that you can also consider burning the wood with a torch and then apply your products. Makes the grain pop out really nice
Great video. I can tell you think like a viewer. Using 2 pieces of wood for each demo was so much easier to see the difference than the way other videos on this subject present the differences. Keep up the great videos.
definite Two Thumbs Up from us. We watch many people apply stain but never see most use conditioner. I confess we have an unused can because we have gone nuts with epoxy lately. LOL very nice video explaining the need for conditioner!
Very helpful but with the dark walnut, you really don’t get that dark stain that you were looking for. If you put the treated product up against the suggested color on the outside of the can, they aren’t anything similar so I’m wondering if repeated stains are required to get that color.
I kept trying to stain my stairs and it was coming out HORRIBLE with Jacobean stain. Going to sand ONCE MORE and try the conditioner. The guy at Ace said I didn’t need it. So upset!
I Build a lot of Cabins sometimes we use Pine logs sawmill pine lumber ETC this may sound crazy but Waste oil and Diesel fuel make a really good stain and it's cheap compared to Stain bought in the store.
That works really well for exterior projects, but did interior I would think it would smell terrible and is also a fire hazard. Although, I'm not sure that regular stain and poly are less flammable in comparison! 😂
You'll only need to pre-stain the 1 time at the very beginning. It's done it's job of penetrating all of the wood at that point so you're good to put 2 coats of stain after.
not necessary to sand after pre-stain conditioner is applied. If you want more contrast, ie: darker, richer color, just add additional coats of stain to your liking.
is there any rush in applying a stain over the pre-stain? Is it OK to allow the pre-stain to sit a day or 2 then apply a gel stain over it? Thank you Joe
the stain must be applied within about 2hrs from when you put on the pre-stain according to the instructions. I've never let it sit that long so I'm not sure what would happen
@@KellyConcepts OK ty! I gave 4 pocket doors that are hung and unfinished pine.. I want to Gel Stain them... I'm glad I came across this Pre-Stain MUST, :)
is there any way to do your own diy pre-stain formula i mean like using cheap clear varnish and then thin it down using mineral spirit or thinner as a pre stain, will it work?
I'm still confused about how long to leave the pre-stain on before applying the stain. I think you said about 10 minutes? Others say 1 to 2 hrs. I will be staining a previously (factory finished) walnut chair (actually has a vinyl cover but with wood arms that are worn).
You can apply stain within 10 min to 2 hours after applying the pre-stain. You have a 2hr window of time to apply - but I usually just go at it 10min after applying pre-stain.
Yes, good point. It can look good without the conditioner based on preference. But I do have a few pieces like a giant headboard I made where there are blemishes on the wood that are very obvious and ugly. The conditioner would have prevented that. Hit and miss!
No conditioner for me. Looks too clean that way! You lose all the gorgeous knots and grain. Guess it depends though on your tastes. Thanks for the video!
First of all don't use MinWax..their stain sucks. Use Rustoleum stains or Varathane. Pre-stain always lightens the color too much IMO. basically prestain is just a "laquer" of sorts that soaks into the wood, preventing the primary stain from absorbing deeper. Thus forcing a more consistent color because the stain can't penetrate. It mainly stays closer to the surface.
Great video thanks so much for the info. Also I don't know who needs this, but I'd like to bless anyone since you've blessed me. Jesus christ loves you and gave his life on the cross so we could live and have a relationship with god. All we have to do is recognize our sins and ask for forgiveness and believe in jesus christ his son.
Yea music gets choppy there - original owner of the music had it copyright free and then decided to take ownership..... UA-cam, ya know?
Thanks!!
Sounds more like the artist being wishy-wishy than any doing of UA-cam. Although because it affects UA-cam, it is a very annoying way to be wishy-washy.
The key for a good stain finish is good sanding before applying the stain, conditioners change the color of your stain and give you no grain contrast, which is the point of staining wood.
I like the non pre stain
What's the point of the pre stain conditioner then???
You can apply additional coats of stain though for a richer color.
@@PromNightDumpsterBaby420for people who like a more consistent color distribution maybe?? Ask them?????
Thanks for this. The dark walnut became 'not dark walnut' which completely changed the color. I am glad I saw this video.
The dark walnut with prestain looks terrible!
Nicely done! you can tell this is always a hot topic by the differing opinions, but whatever you like, you've given a great, simple, clear example here. THANK YOU!
I'm so torn - I love the consistency of the stain with the conditioner, but I love how the grain pops more without...definitely something to try though, as we usually test out our stains before hitting a whole project. I've always wondered about these, and thanks to this vid, I now know more! Cheers!
Good idea testing your projects. I always just go for it and it's backfired a couple times - still never learn my lesson lol
Yes I agree about letting the grain pop out more. And to do that you can also consider burning the wood with a torch and then apply your products. Makes the grain pop out really nice
Great video. I can tell you think like a viewer. Using 2 pieces of wood for each demo was so much easier to see the difference than the way other videos on this subject present the differences. Keep up the great videos.
Regardless of who likes what outcome better, this was a GREAT video!! Great true comparison, thanks!!
Ya ask me, the conditioner eliminates nearly all of that dreaded character frowned upon by so many
I'm convinced, thanks for taking the time.
The prestain looks fancier, more subtle and when a whole floor has it, it will look cleaner and still very cozy.
need to discuss what wood species used. pine notorious for blotchy/streaky results. hardwood much less need for "pre-stain"
Proof is right here. Appreciate all the work bud.
definite Two Thumbs Up from us. We watch many people apply stain but never see most use conditioner. I confess we have an unused can because we have gone nuts with epoxy lately. LOL very nice video explaining the need for conditioner!
Thank you Poor Man! I still need to get into the epoxy side of things. Those projects look so cool
An excellent comparison. Many thanks for sharing.
Very helpful but with the dark walnut, you really don’t get that dark stain that you were looking for. If you put the treated product up against the suggested color on the outside of the can, they aren’t anything similar so I’m wondering if repeated stains are required to get that color.
Yes additional coats will result in darker finish
I kept trying to stain my stairs and it was coming out HORRIBLE with Jacobean stain. Going to sand ONCE MORE and try the conditioner. The guy at Ace said I didn’t need it. So upset!
thanks great way to show the value of pre stain
Hi! Old retired guy, trying to learn to butcher wood. Can I assume that its okay to stain while the conditioner is still wet? Thanks, CT
Thank you for showing true comparisons. New subbie!
Very informative video! I have never used it before but you have made me a believer
Thanks! It's worth every penny (for important projects)
What did you use to apply and wipe off the excess? Old rag? Paper towel? How do you keep the small fabrics from not fraying and sticking to the wood?
I usually use old rags - socks are my favorite haha. Typically my projects are sanded smooth so I don't have to worry about the snags
@@KellyConcepts Thank you! Great idea about the socks! I will use that for my project hahah :)
Why not use a paintbrush???
Surely it depends on the wood though, a hard wood like Oak will probably not need pre stain would you agree?
I Build a lot of Cabins sometimes we use Pine logs sawmill pine lumber ETC this may sound crazy but Waste oil and Diesel fuel make a really good stain and it's cheap compared to Stain bought in the store.
That works really well for exterior projects, but did interior I would think it would smell terrible and is also a fire hazard. Although, I'm not sure that regular stain and poly are less flammable in comparison! 😂
@kellyconcepts
What happens if I use a pre-stain but jump right to the sealer?
Does it still help even if I don't use a stain?
What if you're doing multiple coats of stain to get a darker color?
Do you pre-stain once or do you pre-stain before each additional coat?
You'll only need to pre-stain the 1 time at the very beginning. It's done it's job of penetrating all of the wood at that point so you're good to put 2 coats of stain after.
Hi! Is this pine you used in the examples pressure treated? If not, do you recommend using the pre stain conditioner for pressure treated wood also?
Did you sand down the wood after the pre stain?
not necessary to sand after pre-stain conditioner is applied. If you want more contrast, ie: darker, richer color, just add additional coats of stain to your liking.
Thanks for the great info. Big help.
is there any rush in applying a stain over the pre-stain?
Is it OK to allow the pre-stain to sit a day or 2 then apply a gel stain over it?
Thank you
Joe
the stain must be applied within about 2hrs from when you put on the pre-stain according to the instructions. I've never let it sit that long so I'm not sure what would happen
@@KellyConcepts OK ty! I gave 4 pocket doors that are hung and unfinished pine.. I want to Gel Stain them...
I'm glad I came across this Pre-Stain MUST, :)
is there any way to do your own diy pre-stain formula i mean like using cheap clear varnish and then thin it down using mineral spirit or thinner as a pre stain, will it work?
I have a messy stain job on a pine table. Will prestain work AFTER a first coat of stain has been applied?
It could help blend the messy job, but it won't fix it completely
Thank you
I'm still confused about how long to leave the pre-stain on before applying the stain. I think you said about 10 minutes? Others say 1 to 2 hrs. I will be staining a previously (factory finished) walnut chair (actually has a vinyl cover but with wood arms that are worn).
You can apply stain within 10 min to 2 hours after applying the pre-stain. You have a 2hr window of time to apply - but I usually just go at it 10min after applying pre-stain.
@@KellyConcepts Thank you for your response. The walnut is a hard wood so perhaps I need to leave the pre-stain on longer .
Dark walnut looked like light walnut!
the ones with out prestain look more rustic, and the dark stain makes them look like they were burned a bit
Yes, good point. It can look good without the conditioner based on preference.
But I do have a few pieces like a giant headboard I made where there are blemishes on the wood that are very obvious and ugly. The conditioner would have prevented that. Hit and miss!
Do you need this for Danish oil?
I wouldn't use it with Danish oil.
Its basically the difference between rustic finish vs smooth finish
very helpfullll thank you
helpful clip
Supposed to lightly sand after waiting 10 minutes.
wow what a cutie!
No conditioner for me. Looks too clean that way! You lose all the gorgeous knots and grain. Guess it depends though on your tastes. Thanks for the video!
So basically it lightens up the end product
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
You didn't tell your viewers that you're using OIL BASED conditioner which will require an oil based stain.
I know what it does... I want to know what the hell it is.
First of all don't use MinWax..their stain sucks. Use Rustoleum stains or Varathane. Pre-stain always lightens the color too much IMO. basically prestain is just a "laquer" of sorts that soaks into the wood, preventing the primary stain from absorbing deeper. Thus forcing a more consistent color because the stain can't penetrate. It mainly stays closer to the surface.
I really don't like how the pre-stain just removes most of the grain and makes it appear much lighter.
I like no pre-stain.
It depends on the wood
LOL I have to laugh because I don't want clean smooth look I want to achieve rustic weathered look
I read Kelly concepts and was expecting a hot girl 😭
Sorry to disappoint! 😜
@@KellyConcepts it's ok. Still enjoyed the video. Thanks for making it
You example is terrible. The stain with pre stain have no color at all and mutes the natural wood grain. I will do without.
Great video thanks so much for the info. Also I don't know who needs this, but I'd like to bless anyone since you've blessed me. Jesus christ loves you and gave his life on the cross so we could live and have a relationship with god. All we have to do is recognize our sins and ask for forgiveness and believe in jesus christ his son.
Is there a reason why you apply the stain with a rag and not a paintbrush?