This was such a fun video. Love these guided tours of the inner workings of these devices. Cool learning experience and enhances the understanding of what’s really going on👍🏼👍🏼
Beautiful tour of the inside of the Pro 300. It speaks to WLL caring about the quality and reliability of the machines they sell to demonstrate how they work internally. Nice to see how the machine can be serviced for various problems which will probably show up if you own the machine long enough. As a separate thought, I wonder why the copper tubes that lead out of the steam boiler don't have heat insulation, especially since they pass near electrical wires.
Hi dan, thanks for the comment! We do care and put a lot of effort into support and training materials. I've been inside just about every home use espresso machine available in North America over the past decade. While boilers often have an insulating wrap it's incredibly rare for individual copper pipes to be insulated.
Thanks for the tour! Question: what can cause the steam pressure to raise above the normal limit on P300? I have adjusted the pressure on PSTAT but that didn't help. The pressure keep growing above 2 bars. Thanks
Hey g, You are welcome. Could be faulty pressure gauge. Does it return to zero when machine is off? Might be bad pressurestat or scale in path to pressurestat preventing it from reading pressure in boiler.
Hi whole latte love, thanks for the showdown. But what is the longevity of copper heating elements? And should I be worried about leaching copper in my water? Thanks in advance
Hi BD, Thanks for the question. No worries about copper leaching. Heating elements are robust and unlikely to have issues unless you somehow repeatedly turn the heating elements on with no water in the boilers. That's very hard to do on a dual boiler machine.
I considering to buy this Machine or Lelit Victoria that has a few more option. However the Build quality of Protec seems to be better guess the Espresso quality would be the same.Struggling which one I should get
Hi Roland, When comparing most machines the potential espresso quality is similar - it really comes down to the skill of the user. But, some machines have features which help the user with consistency. Marc
Thanks a lot for the detailed tour and other videos! On my Pro 300 the hot water wand got clogged, so I had to remove it and clean it up. However now it's leaking a bit. I was surprised that there is no gasket. How do you seal it?
Hi Brian, You are welcome. Here's a video which covers servicing the hot water and steam valves on the Pro 300 which should answer your question: ua-cam.com/video/Lg2TXUR_EC0/v-deo.html And here's a link to our support section for the Pro 300. Lot's of other DIY videos there specific to the machine: support.wholelattelove.com/hc/en-us/articles/4419664344723
I’ve seen this machine listed with stainless steel brew boiler including on the profitec website. The one in the video is brass and I’ve seen it listed as eco-brass. Was it ever changed to or from brass to stainless or is it just incorrect info? Thanks
Hi Kevin, Maybe some confusion between the boilers? The steam/hot water boiler is stainless and the brew boiler is brass. I checked Profitec's site and it's listed like this: 0.4 l coffee boiler with a ring brew group 0.75 l stainless steel steam and hot water boiler So the Profitec site makes no mention of brew boiler material. If you go to our expanded specs for the Pro 300: www.wholelattelove.com/products/profitec-pro-300-dual-boiler-espresso-machine#product-specs boiler materials are correctly identified as brass for the brew boiler and stainless for the steam boiler. To the best of knowledge boiler materials have never changed in the Pro 300.
@@Wholelattelovepage thanks for the follow up! Spend too long looking at specs and machines and things start to blend together but it’s part of the fun right? Thanks again
Ok Marc, another great video. I'm looking to move on from an Ascaso single thermoblock PID machine. Looking at the ECM Tech, ECM Mech, Prof 500 and this Prof 300. Any of your input would be appreciated!! And how do you set the brew pressure with no built in pressure gauge for the brew?
Hi Jeff, As you mentioned in another comment the Technika has the rotary pump and is plumbable. I really do like plumbable machines as I detest filling reservoirs. Also makes water treatment easier if you need to do that with an in-line filter. Unless you have unusually soft (low mineral content) water your should filter water to reduce calcium to prevent scale. If you go with an HX boiler machine it's possible for home user to descale. It's more difficult for home users to descale dual boiler machines - most manufacturers recommend against home descaling of DB machines. So if you go DB you really need to prevent scale in the first place with filtration. The Pro 500 PID is a long time favorite of mine in the HX boiler category. The Pro 300 is ready to go quick with the brew boiler over group design and it's suitable for lower volume home use. Machines with E61 groups generally need about 30 minutes of warmup time before use. Brew pressure on the Pro 300 os set by adjusting the OPV. There's really no need to change it from the factory setting. But if you do need/want to change you'd have to have a PF mounted pressure gauge to do so: www.wholelattelove.com/products/brewpressureportafiltergauge Marc
When it shuts off the pump when using the backflush blind filter and has unsteady flow when brewing, is usually the OPV calcified/stuck or is the pump just too weak?
Question Marc , why do they have the steam pressure set at 1.2bar when the blow off valve is set at 2.5bar, could one up the pressure in the steam boiler 1.8bar without any problems?
Hey Tom, Probably set there because pressure is respectable. We have run Pro 300s at 2 bar pressure for extended periods with no issues. 1.8 should be fine. Be aware there are 2 safety valves on the boiler. The one that's in same fitting as the vacuum relief is at 2.3 bar and the more typical one atop the boiler is at 2.5 bar. Marc
⁉ Can anyone confirm with 100% certainty, that the water comes from the boiler through the lower hole (e.g. number 2 on the valve) and then gets through number 1 on the valve into the upper hole in the grouphead and to the shower at the end? It's a critical question for me as I would like to make a brew pressure measurement block and only in that configuration e.g. valve-shower pipe on top am I able to do it (because of a very limited space in the machine and manufacturing constrains). I will be very grateful if somebody could definitely confirm the water path here 🙏
This was such a fun video. Love these guided tours of the inner workings of these devices. Cool learning experience and enhances the understanding of what’s really going on👍🏼👍🏼
Glad you enjoyed it!
Beautiful tour of the inside of the Pro 300. It speaks to WLL caring about the quality and reliability of the machines they sell to demonstrate how they work internally. Nice to see how the machine can be serviced for various problems which will probably show up if you own the machine long enough. As a separate thought, I wonder why the copper tubes that lead out of the steam boiler don't have heat insulation, especially since they pass near electrical wires.
Hi dan, thanks for the comment! We do care and put a lot of effort into support and training materials. I've been inside just about every home use espresso machine available in North America over the past decade. While boilers often have an insulating wrap it's incredibly rare for individual copper pipes to be insulated.
Thanks so much!
ECM and Profitec look the most well designed and built compared to many others.
Hi Alan, Thanks for the comment. I agree!
Thanks for the tour! Question: what can cause the steam pressure to raise above the normal limit on P300? I have adjusted the pressure on PSTAT but that didn't help. The pressure keep growing above 2 bars. Thanks
Hey g, You are welcome. Could be faulty pressure gauge. Does it return to zero when machine is off? Might be bad pressurestat or scale in path to pressurestat preventing it from reading pressure in boiler.
@@Wholelattelovepage no the pressure remains the same if I turn steam boiler OFF.
@@grabelnikov if gauge stays at 2 when boiler is off and cold then it’s likely faulty gauge.
Hi whole latte love, thanks for the showdown. But what is the longevity of copper heating elements? And should I be worried about leaching copper in my water?
Thanks in advance
Hi BD, Thanks for the question. No worries about copper leaching. Heating elements are robust and unlikely to have issues unless you somehow repeatedly turn the heating elements on with no water in the boilers. That's very hard to do on a dual boiler machine.
@@Wholelattelovepage thanks 🙏
I considering to buy this Machine or Lelit Victoria that has a few more option. However the Build quality of Protec seems to be better
guess the Espresso quality would be the same.Struggling which one I should get
Hi Roland, When comparing most machines the potential espresso quality is similar - it really comes down to the skill of the user. But, some machines have features which help the user with consistency.
Marc
Thanks a lot for the detailed tour and other videos! On my Pro 300 the hot water wand got clogged, so I had to remove it and clean it up. However now it's leaking a bit. I was surprised that there is no gasket. How do you seal it?
Hi Brian, You are welcome. Here's a video which covers servicing the hot water and steam valves on the Pro 300 which should answer your question: ua-cam.com/video/Lg2TXUR_EC0/v-deo.html
And here's a link to our support section for the Pro 300. Lot's of other DIY videos there specific to the machine: support.wholelattelove.com/hc/en-us/articles/4419664344723
Is the brew boiler on this machine lead free brass?
yes
@@Wholelattelovepage i thought brass always contains some lead, but how do know this?
I’ve seen this machine listed with stainless steel brew boiler including on the profitec website. The one in the video is brass and I’ve seen it listed as eco-brass. Was it ever changed to or from brass to stainless or is it just incorrect info? Thanks
Hi Kevin, Maybe some confusion between the boilers? The steam/hot water boiler is stainless and the brew boiler is brass. I checked Profitec's site and it's listed like this:
0.4 l coffee boiler with a ring brew group
0.75 l stainless steel steam and hot water boiler
So the Profitec site makes no mention of brew boiler material.
If you go to our expanded specs for the Pro 300: www.wholelattelove.com/products/profitec-pro-300-dual-boiler-espresso-machine#product-specs boiler materials are correctly identified as brass for the brew boiler and stainless for the steam boiler. To the best of knowledge boiler materials have never changed in the Pro 300.
@@Wholelattelovepage thanks for the follow up! Spend too long looking at specs and machines and things start to blend together but it’s part of the fun right? Thanks again
@@kevindarby8799 NP☕️
Ok Marc, another great video. I'm looking to move on from an Ascaso single thermoblock PID machine. Looking at the ECM Tech, ECM Mech, Prof 500 and this Prof 300. Any of your input would be appreciated!! And how do you set the brew pressure with no built in pressure gauge for the brew?
Hi Jeff, As you mentioned in another comment the Technika has the rotary pump and is plumbable. I really do like plumbable machines as I detest filling reservoirs. Also makes water treatment easier if you need to do that with an in-line filter. Unless you have unusually soft (low mineral content) water your should filter water to reduce calcium to prevent scale. If you go with an HX boiler machine it's possible for home user to descale. It's more difficult for home users to descale dual boiler machines - most manufacturers recommend against home descaling of DB machines. So if you go DB you really need to prevent scale in the first place with filtration. The Pro 500 PID is a long time favorite of mine in the HX boiler category. The Pro 300 is ready to go quick with the brew boiler over group design and it's suitable for lower volume home use. Machines with E61 groups generally need about 30 minutes of warmup time before use. Brew pressure on the Pro 300 os set by adjusting the OPV. There's really no need to change it from the factory setting. But if you do need/want to change you'd have to have a PF mounted pressure gauge to do so: www.wholelattelove.com/products/brewpressureportafiltergauge
Marc
When it shuts off the pump when using the backflush blind filter and has unsteady flow when brewing, is usually the OPV calcified/stuck or is the pump just too weak?
OK, changing the pump did the trick
Question Marc , why do they have the steam pressure set at 1.2bar when the blow off valve is set at 2.5bar, could one up the pressure in the steam boiler 1.8bar without any problems?
Hey Tom, Probably set there because pressure is respectable. We have run Pro 300s at 2 bar pressure for extended periods with no issues. 1.8 should be fine. Be aware there are 2 safety valves on the boiler. The one that's in same fitting as the vacuum relief is at 2.3 bar and the more typical one atop the boiler is at 2.5 bar.
Marc
@@Wholelattelovepage Thanks Marc for the quick reply.
@@tomjohnson4681 my pleasure!
⁉ Can anyone confirm with 100% certainty, that the water comes from the boiler through the lower hole (e.g. number 2 on the valve) and then gets through number 1 on the valve into the upper hole in the grouphead and to the shower at the end? It's a critical question for me as I would like to make a brew pressure measurement block and only in that configuration e.g. valve-shower pipe on top am I able to do it (because of a very limited space in the machine and manufacturing constrains). I will be very grateful if somebody could definitely confirm the water path here 🙏