A few notes: There is a fuse box just to the right of the battery. At 0:50, you can see it to the right of the battery. Some red cables also exit there. There is a free space, and you can install a fuse directly at the beginning of the cable. In the Mercedes assembly guidelines, ground points are mentioned for connecting the negative cable. There are three ground points in the driver’s seat area where you can connect the negative cable. If you don’t want to use those, there is another ground point under the vehicle when you route the cable out. However, I think it's more elegant to route the cable inside. What I don’t like at all are the fuses under the car, halfway along the cable. The chassis is negative, and you are very close to it with a positive cable lug. If you secure the positive cable to the battery fuse box, you can route it well-protected and avoid exposing it halfway.
Hi, very good to read your input here my friend! I have read and seen videos saying all sorts of stuff about making sure to disconnect things and taking out fuse No. 30 before connecting the victron charger to the starter battery, and am still trying to learn and feel confident enough to hook mine up, as I'm seriously worried about messing up anything in the Sprinters own electrical system. I thought this video was great as it's as simple as it shows, and thought that must be too easy, after all I've seen before. Could I ask you, if I was to disconnect that fuse box and add my midi fuse and + cable, do I need to know anything with regards to disconnecting other things or fuses first, assuming I need to disconnect the fuse box to access it? I've seen another video where a guy had that fuse box out and did exactly as you said, so I've seen inside of it and the spare posts to connect to, but it was removed from the side of the battery at the beginning of the video, with no mention or footage of it being disconnected. Apologies for hitting you with an essay man! 😮
@@holographicshaman3804 I don’t think you need to worry too much about it. I have also read the instructions for Fuse 30, which is always associated with a disconnect switch located to the right of the gas pedal in the trim. In my case, this isn’t the case, and I believe it’s optional equipment. Therefore, I loosened the screw on the negative terminal. After that, you can remove the negative terminal from the starter battery. From this point on, the Sprinter is without power, and you can work safely. The Fuse 30 doesn’t matter anymore since no current will reach it. I then opened the fuse box. Many people have installed the + cable with a fuse there. However, in my case, there’s a bridge missing to install a fuse. I took the easier route and didn’t try to organize it through Mercedes. Instead, I connected a cable from the + terminal, as shown in the video. However, I only ran it about 15 cm into a Mega Fuse holder, then continued it through the cable channel under the seat and towards the back of the vehicle. This way, I fully secured the cable (except for the 15 cm). In the video, the cable runs unsecured outside first and is only routed through a fuse after several meters under the vehicle, leaving the portion before the fuse unprotected.
Great, thank you so much for your reply, and I love the idea of connecting to the + terminal as you said you have and as in the video here, rather than going into the fuse box, and will also add my midi fuse holder as close to the battery as I can. Then connect my - cable to one of the ground points I've read are in the same area as the battery, when I find them 😂 I'm in the UK and usually stick to UK build info with the risk of slight differences in things catching me out, but I think in this case it's all good and I have a bit more room to move in that foot well as its the passenger side here! Thank you and be well dude 👍
@@holographicshaman3804 Mercedes has assembly guidelines for the Sprinter on their website, including in English. Unfortunately, I can't link them, as the comment would end up in spam. The grounding points are documented there. The front grounding points are located in the driver’s seat and the passenger’s seat. I also wanted to make it easier for myself at first, but removing the seat is actually useful because it makes it easier to pull the cable through the cable channel. The grounding point in my case is under a plastic holder with a lot of cables in the driver’s seat (it might be the passenger seat for you), which you also have to unscrew. You can recognize it by the brown wires already connected to it, and it comes directly out of the floor. At first, it feels pretty awful to take everything apart, but it’s actually quite easy once you get into it.
Excellent video. Very helpful. Not many instructional videos of specific cable routing available. Thank you for making this. Question #1- What wire/cable size is used? Question #2- If a sprinter has an AUX battery in engine bay, is there alternate connection and routing?
Nice video, very informative, thanks! Question: how long is a single wire run from the starter battery all the way to the back underneath a 144 sprinter like you showed in the video?
Great video! Is there any reason you run both a positive and negative to the dc dc charger? I thought you could ground it to a common earth (chassis)??
You can definitely ground it to the chassis. I have found that the ground needs to be separated from the main ground for your house electrical system. If the Orion's ground is too close to the main system ground you could get faulty readings through your shunt. For this reason we just run it along side the positive and attach it to the vehicle's battery, or sometimes the chassis near the vehicle battery.
Thanks for this. I ran a 6 AWG positive and negative then realized I bought a non-isolated charger. So I thought, "Great. When I want I can just tie the two 6 AWG together and have the conductor I'll need for a 50 amp Buckboost." But first I'll have to re-wire the charger ground....
Thanks for the video. Nice to see the installation flow. I'll be doing it soon myself. 4:18 you really should use grommets. Even if its going through plastic. That plastic is harder than the wire insulation and will saw straight through it
This video is great! Can you share details on how you run the cables under the vehicle, and specifically how you protect them from the exhaust system heat when crossing over?
AWESOME video, extremely helpful. What size cable and loom did you use from the battery to the dc/dc? Also, is there a reason you chose to run separate loom for the neg and pos instead of running them together in one loom?
We use 3/4" loom. You could definitely run them together, but you would need larger loom...probably 1". We just find it easier to route the smaller loom.
So, I like this tutorial, but would advise against attaching the negative to the battery negative on a Sprinter. If you do then you create another path for the vehicle battery and won't be able to disconnect it they way you normally do.
Thank you for taking the time to post this. My charger install will be largely based on this video with a few nuances. Thanks again.
Excellent example of how you do it. I'm sure it comes in very handy. Thanks for sharing 🙏
Easy-peasy.....thanks for showing us this!!!!
A few notes: There is a fuse box just to the right of the battery. At 0:50, you can see it to the right of the battery. Some red cables also exit there. There is a free space, and you can install a fuse directly at the beginning of the cable.
In the Mercedes assembly guidelines, ground points are mentioned for connecting the negative cable. There are three ground points in the driver’s seat area where you can connect the negative cable. If you don’t want to use those, there is another ground point under the vehicle when you route the cable out. However, I think it's more elegant to route the cable inside.
What I don’t like at all are the fuses under the car, halfway along the cable. The chassis is negative, and you are very close to it with a positive cable lug. If you secure the positive cable to the battery fuse box, you can route it well-protected and avoid exposing it halfway.
Hi, very good to read your input here my friend! I have read and seen videos saying all sorts of stuff about making sure to disconnect things and taking out fuse No. 30 before connecting the victron charger to the starter battery, and am still trying to learn and feel confident enough to hook mine up, as I'm seriously worried about messing up anything in the Sprinters own electrical system. I thought this video was great as it's as simple as it shows, and thought that must be too easy, after all I've seen before. Could I ask you, if I was to disconnect that fuse box and add my midi fuse and + cable, do I need to know anything with regards to disconnecting other things or fuses first, assuming I need to disconnect the fuse box to access it? I've seen another video where a guy had that fuse box out and did exactly as you said, so I've seen inside of it and the spare posts to connect to, but it was removed from the side of the battery at the beginning of the video, with no mention or footage of it being disconnected. Apologies for hitting you with an essay man! 😮
@@holographicshaman3804 I don’t think you need to worry too much about it.
I have also read the instructions for Fuse 30, which is always associated with a disconnect switch located to the right of the gas pedal in the trim. In my case, this isn’t the case, and I believe it’s optional equipment.
Therefore, I loosened the screw on the negative terminal. After that, you can remove the negative terminal from the starter battery. From this point on, the Sprinter is without power, and you can work safely. The Fuse 30 doesn’t matter anymore since no current will reach it.
I then opened the fuse box. Many people have installed the + cable with a fuse there. However, in my case, there’s a bridge missing to install a fuse. I took the easier route and didn’t try to organize it through Mercedes. Instead, I connected a cable from the + terminal, as shown in the video. However, I only ran it about 15 cm into a Mega Fuse holder, then continued it through the cable channel under the seat and towards the back of the vehicle. This way, I fully secured the cable (except for the 15 cm). In the video, the cable runs unsecured outside first and is only routed through a fuse after several meters under the vehicle, leaving the portion before the fuse unprotected.
Great, thank you so much for your reply, and I love the idea of connecting to the + terminal as you said you have and as in the video here, rather than going into the fuse box, and will also add my midi fuse holder as close to the battery as I can. Then connect my - cable to one of the ground points I've read are in the same area as the battery, when I find them 😂 I'm in the UK and usually stick to UK build info with the risk of slight differences in things catching me out, but I think in this case it's all good and I have a bit more room to move in that foot well as its the passenger side here! Thank you and be well dude 👍
@@holographicshaman3804 Mercedes has assembly guidelines for the Sprinter on their website, including in English. Unfortunately, I can't link them, as the comment would end up in spam. The grounding points are documented there.
The front grounding points are located in the driver’s seat and the passenger’s seat.
I also wanted to make it easier for myself at first, but removing the seat is actually useful because it makes it easier to pull the cable through the cable channel.
The grounding point in my case is under a plastic holder with a lot of cables in the driver’s seat (it might be the passenger seat for you), which you also have to unscrew. You can recognize it by the brown wires already connected to it, and it comes directly out of the floor.
At first, it feels pretty awful to take everything apart, but it’s actually quite easy once you get into it.
That's very cool to know and thank you. Enjoy the weekend dude!
Great info Jeff….i will have to put a bus bar into the battery tray since I’m adding some additional devices.
Very grateful for your video. It's been my helper today.
I’m curious to know wire gauge as well. Thanks for the video. You made a daunting task much more tolerable. Thank you!
Excellent video. Very helpful. Not many instructional videos of specific cable routing available. Thank you for making this.
Question #1- What wire/cable size is used?
Question #2- If a sprinter has an AUX battery in engine bay, is there alternate connection and routing?
What size breaker?
Nice video, very informative, thanks! Question: how long is a single wire run from the starter battery all the way to the back underneath a 144 sprinter like you showed in the video?
It’s about 15’.
Great video! Is there any reason you run both a positive and negative to the dc dc charger? I thought you could ground it to a common earth (chassis)??
You can definitely ground it to the chassis. I have found that the ground needs to be separated from the main ground for your house electrical system. If the Orion's ground is too close to the main system ground you could get faulty readings through your shunt. For this reason we just run it along side the positive and attach it to the vehicle's battery, or sometimes the chassis near the vehicle battery.
Thanks for this. I ran a 6 AWG positive and negative then realized I bought a non-isolated charger. So I thought, "Great. When I want I can just tie the two 6 AWG together and have the conductor I'll need for a 50 amp Buckboost." But first I'll have to re-wire the charger ground....
Thanks for the video. Nice to see the installation flow. I'll be doing it soon myself.
4:18 you really should use grommets. Even if its going through plastic. That plastic is harder than the wire insulation and will saw straight through it
What side the cable you use
This video is great! Can you share details on how you run the cables under the vehicle, and specifically how you protect them from the exhaust system heat when crossing over?
We wrap the wires in loom and cross over above the exhaust toward the rear of the van along with the factory lines.
Thanks for the video Jeff it’s great! Question…did you wire up the connection for the smart alternator so the dc/dc only pulls when the van is on?
Yes. The Orion senses when the vehicle is running.
Hi Jeff, can you please tell me what hardware/process you use to secure the blue sea circuit breaker to the frame?
We use galvanized self tapping screws.
@@thrivansThank you sir!
AWESOME video, extremely helpful. What size cable and loom did you use from the battery to the dc/dc? Also, is there a reason you chose to run separate loom for the neg and pos instead of running them together in one loom?
We use 3/4" loom. You could definitely run them together, but you would need larger loom...probably 1". We just find it easier to route the smaller loom.
Thank you. What gauge wire did you use? 4awg?@@thrivans
Thanks for the tips, but most of us are here for safe DC to DC charging amps and cable gauge...
So, I like this tutorial, but would advise against attaching the negative to the battery negative on a Sprinter. If you do then you create another path for the vehicle battery and won't be able to disconnect it they way you normally do.
WRONG. It’s wrong. For positive there is a spot let in a black box next to the battery. And for negative there is a spot unter driver seat.
Can you explain further please I'm about to start my electrics on my 2020 sprinter this coming weekend
Yes put the breaker under the car where it will get wet and short out.
WRONG. It is a waterproof, marine grade breaker.
Dude looks dishonest.
@celiawinters310 What does that have to do with anything?
Not cool. Jeff seems super open and honest. I've watched a few of his videos. Far better than most.