Yamaha VSTAR 1100 Ignition Testing and Troubleshooting - From The Battery to the Spark Plugs
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- Опубліковано 11 лип 2024
- Today we will be going through the complete troubleshooting of the ignition system of the VSTAR 1100, before paying a mechanic to do it. You might find you can isolate and repair the problem yourself. A link to a movie is provided with instructions for the removal of the rank and required items. After the tank is removed the forward plastic trim is then removed. A spark testing tool is highly recommend for this job, found at any auto parts store.
This test begins with the battery, ensuring proper function, without which, nothing electrical is expected to work properly. The battery should be charged up, tested and if need be replaced before continuing. This is followed by testing the key switch function. horn and lights.
If the horn wasn't making noise, other electrical components may be faulty too, we should start at the main fuse 30A under the seat, from there, the fuse box on the side has a 10A that should be checked, along with all of the others. With the fuses good a check for good starter operation should be done to rule out the kill switch or the side stand switch.
The test in the video will be done with the rear cylinder, the front cylinder is the same process.
The chrome trim is removed from the engine cover. following the two wires from the coil, remembering their colour position. a reading is taken across the primary of the coil, looking for 3.57 to 4.83. The secondary through the 10k resistor of the cap should be 10.7k to 14.5k.
Next is the stator pickup, so the side cover is removed. the off white connector disconnected for this. reading the stator 189 to 231 is the nominal value. Next the wires on the coil is re-attached. With the meter on dc volts, on both of those leads and the key in the ignition in the off position. we check to see 0 volts, turning the key to on, we should see 12v.
Next, the spark gap tester , set to a gap around 6m is connected to the indication cable and grounded to the block. turning over the engine, checking for visual indication of spark. If spark is seen, the plug is then removed and inspected for fouling, rounding and damage, replaced if necessary.
If still no spark, on the connector that goes to the gas tank is a diode taped just under the connector. removing tape exposes this for removal. Testing on the meter as shown shows an indication only in one direction. Once tested it is reinstalled in place.
Next comes the start circuit relay, removed from the rubber mount as shown , pin 2-3 the diode is tested if forward and reverse.
If there is still a problem you will need to swap the ignitor for testing from a shop or friend, to see if this clears the issue.
#yamaha #vstar1100 #vstar - Наука та технологія
That was a complete ignition test quick and to the point. Thank you. This allows slower viewers to pause and replay. while the rest of us move on with our lives. Sometimes I need the slow lane too. I watching this because I'm going to go help a friend with his bike tomorrow. Great job calling out the tools needed for each part!!!
So this was nice to to see. gave me extra time to write this. Thank you again nice video.
I very much appreciate the incredibly informative videos!! Best on UA-cam!!
Thank you, glad it helped.
Thanks a great deal. Your videos helped me solve the problem I had with my XVS1100. I had crossed battery cables when trying to jump start it and it blew the main fuse. I was worried it was something more major. Saved me a lot of money, too, as I was close to sending it to my mechanic. Thanks again.
Glad I could help.
Great Video!!! I'm having intermittent charging failure on my '02. I'm getting ready to check the stator now, and this was very helpful.
Glad it helped
I just replaced starter clutch put it back together,no spark either side.bike did turn over. Tryed a second time after checking plugs . No lights,horn nothing.Thank you for the video very informative.
Great video for overall electrical diagnostics! My '09 Stratoliner will turnover but not start. I pulled the fuel pump relay after determining pump wasn't running. Found the relay pins were slightly corroded, cleaned the pins and plugged relay back in and she started. Then a after a test ride, tried to restart the next day...same issue! I haven't tested resistance at coils yet. Battery and starter are good. Fuel pump fuse is good. Will test the coils next. Thanks for the excellent tutorial!
Great video! I just spent $80 for a new starter and $133 for a new battery (spending more for the Duralast Gold ETX14) 😢 but now I know it was neither. It's June 9 just getting into Prime riding season and I'm completely disgusted.....If I decide to take this on myself Im going to be very grateful for this video, thank you.
Thank you so much for all of your tutorial :)
Glad you like them!
If the diodes is faulty will there still be a spark at the spark plug ??
Good video, very helpful😊
Glad it helped.
Thank you, I was looking for help with the fuses location thank you
Glad I could help
I have enjoyed all the videos you have posted. What I especially like is how succinctly show &/explain “how to’s”. The two that really helped were the videos on removing & reinstalling the carbs for cleaning/rebuild. My question on this video is the purpose of the diode wrapped around the under tank wiring harness??
Thanks very much.
Like any diode, it allows current to flow in only one direction. For a motorcycle, its generally a protection circuit.
One of the more-comprehensive videos and well-communicated. I find the resistor plug-caps can be problematic and worth replacing on yamaha v-twins . David Aotearoa nz
Thanks, Calculating the resistance into the measurement is often a good enough test for basic ignition testing.
Thank you for the video!!! I tried to diagnose my 2006 Star 1100, I have a 2 into 1 exhaust, pod filters (without the tubing on the top like yours - I want to do that), and a retrofitted '05 carb bowel bottom delete. I have an OK idle, power was boosted when I replaced the spark plugs for a bit in the low power range but it fell flat on it's face mid to high and I cant get over 60mph. Checked the spark plugs and the rear is fouled lean, and the front is fouled rich. Carbs are synched and the compression is 109/115 front to rear. I will definitely trace some of the ignition patterns in your video to try and isolate the issue this winter. Thanks in advance!!
Did you adjust your needles when you podded it?
Fantastic! I did everything you did by the book. Only to find out the green light to the N on my cluster was burned out lol! Bike wasn’t in neutral…
It happens...
do you have a video on how to adjust cam chain tightener please
My start relay/dioed is open line both ways . And I cand find the dioed shown taped into the harness?
Awesome video, thanks for the details and taking the time to help bums like me... least I can do is like n subscribe, peace.
Glad to hear it. Thanks!
Hey man. I have a vstar 650. I bought it and rebuilt it the motor. The bike was already in several different pieces. The turn signals quit working but were intermittent. Now the break light fuse blows. I’ve tried unplugging each switch at a time and I’ve tried taking the bulb out. I’ve also tried separating the rear connector to the rest of the loom. No luck. I recently removed all of the electrical tape from the loom to inspect. All wiring is in great condition. Headlight and rear tail/ running light works. What would you do from there?
for my 2000 Vstar 650 I was checking my stator pickup coil and noticed on the female end is 2 grey wires and on the male side of the connector I see the grey and black wires. The female end with 2 grey wires I traced and confirmed its going directly to the pick up coil. My multimeter reads over load when set to 200 but I get a reading of 1.28 when set to 2k Ohm. Am I getting a reading of 1,280 Ohm from my pick up coil?
Awesome video...i have same problem but mine wont light up crank or anything
Thanks a bundle for your videos! Super Helpful.
Bought a used 2003 VStar 1100. Runs great but intermittently it backfires, loses power and stalls... at 50mph!
Sometimes after 10mi, sometimes after 30mi.
Ran all the fuel system tests from your other video - passed. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, petcock, spark plugs and gas cap.
Ran all the ignition tests as outlined and all passed except the input voltage on both coils tests as only 4.5V???
Trying to read schematic from service manual but I'm not really good at that.
Thinking it might be the igniter module - OEM is ridiculous price, aftermarket still very expensive.
I know I'm grasping but do you have any other ideas?
Primary coil tests at 4.1 ohms, secondary coil tests at 11.1 kilo-ohms. Stator tests at 202ohms.
Thank you for your guidance, at 7 minutes and 45 seconds you give ohm range for a white plug behind the left side chrome cover. The range was from 189-231 ohms. My plug reads at 145, is that far enough out of range to be sure that the part is bad and if so is that the stator? Thanks again
Sounds out of spec to me.
Having issues where I replaced clutch. And decided to do new spark plugs and relocate the kill switch and starter with switches from amazon and home depot. Everything worked fines but not my engine wont prime and the push button would try and start but not enough “strength”. Bought a charger to see the battery is ok and put oem kill switch and starter back on going to let it charge over night. I hope this works.
Hope so too.
Can you tell me where the blue connector under the left side by the fuel goes please.
Ok my headlight or auxiliary don't come on but my blinkers horn an brake lights work but no crank at all
Best piece of information from my purpose was that there is a 10k resistor inside the wire. At 22 kohms, It would appear that the secondary coil is way out of spec. Taking away the resistor puts the spec exactly where it should be. Thank you.
You're welcome.
Thanks man. I have an 06 v star. Just ran bad one morning at idle, anytime I rev the engine up both cylinders fire, but at idle the front one cuts off til I rev it. I smell unburnt fuel from the end of the pipe so leaning towards a weak coil. Needs the power to fire up so that's where I'm at
Did you ever figure it out?
@@verdigo5892 yeah. Both of my O-rings by the needle seats in the carburetors were shot, I bought a multi-pack of O-rings at AutoZone put them in problem solved. The bike was just drowning in fuel instead of the opposite
I am chasing electrical issues with my 1300. Interesting that the test you performed on the relay unit (diode) is opposite of what the manual i have says for continuity.
The part for the 1300 may be slightly different.
Are they standard on all v stars my 04 1100 doesn’t have one at all I’ve watched the video and everything test as it should but still no spark
While highway driving I started losing power. I even started smelling fumes. I let the bike sit for a while and first/easiest move was to replace the battery. The bike started up and drove for about a mile before it shut down again. I know this isn't much info to go on, but I'm thinking it's a coil issue. I went through much the same thing with my V65 Honda. Any thoughts?
This is what I have currently with my 06, but found a 2amp draw through the control module. Shop wants $900 to replace it. Hope this was not your issue a year ago.
how can I check ECU?
The video was great I used it to test everything. But I still have a misfire
Having trouble with my 1100 V-Star it has power at the coil when you turn the ignition on but when you crank it you lose your 12 v on the positive side of the coil pulling my hair out at this time. Any pointers?
Did you fix it . I have the same problem
My 05 vstar 1100 turning over slow now won't turn over and just makes some weird nose when hitting starter button battery is at full compasity
My Yamaha 1100 dies after getting warm a few miles.Change coil still doing it?any ideals???
No, trouble shoot ignition after it’s warmed up
can you test the primary coil pulsation with a test light or it shorts the coil the test light ?
A plug grounded would work... or a gap tester like I used. maybe a coil test light, didnt try.
replaced my rectifier and the bike started and ran fine I reinstalled the cover over the main fuse and reinstalled the seat and for some reason the bike won't start can't tell if I did something when I put it back together or if my starter switch or something else happened to die then
Open it and investigate what failed, maybe something is shorting out. Cut cable?
@@retrotechandelectronics I'm embarrassed to say I didn't check the starter the repair manual says to just disconnect the hot and pull the 2 bolts and pull it out and replace it just curious do you need to drain the oil or do anything else other than making sure the o-ring comes out with the starter the one video I saw said you have to remove the side cover but that looked like a sales video
At 7:50 you said out of scope of this video, but you failed to say what part that indicated to be bad if out of parameters? Mine reads 348.4 ohms. So Def out of parameters, can you please explain what this means?
Replace your stator unit, it's under the battery and behind the exhaust.
What if mine gets zero readings
Can this engine be run on the workbench?
Perhaps in an engine mount that could support it in a running state.
@@retrotechandelectronics I've got the stand halfway built, but I wonder if I'll have to strip the wiring harness from the frame as well (not looking forward to that.)
Replaced everything on my 03 vstar 1100 starter will not turn motor over. (New fully charged battery) but no go. Any help wud be appreciated!!
Under the bike is the neutral safety switch you can ground that wire and see if it cranks. If it does crank after you ground the wire you have a bad neutral
@@Binderbird4X4Firebird would this cause the bike to go out while driving?