How Do You Start Weathering Freight Cars? - Applying a Weathering Base Coat and Painting Wheels!
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- Опубліковано 20 сер 2024
- How Do You Start Weathering Freight Cars? - Applying a Weathering Base Coat and Painting Wheels!
From time to time in the hobby press you may see articles about how to weather a freight car, or how to weather a locomotive, etc. Often these are presented as a step by step method, and while that can sometimes be useful, it can also lead to doing things the same way over and over.
This can actually decrease realism rather than adding to it.
Having said all that, Dan starts the weathering process the same way for most models, doing some basic things that set up the car for additional layers of weathering later.
The weathering base coat idea takes care of some of the generic aspects of the weathering process.
The appearance of the freight car is not altered too much. If you want to work with photos to do additional realistic weathering, this process is a good starting point.
Even if you don't do any additional weathering, the cars will look more realistic after these basic steps.
If you've been wanting to give weathering a try but didn't know where to start, then follow along as Dan applies these techniques to five different example freight cars!
#train #modeltrains #scalemodels #trainvideo #hoscale #weathering
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It's nice to see a basic starter how-to video on weathering. I agree, even this basic part improves the models appearance a lot.
I think even just having the wheels painted adds a lot of realism. I'm glad you liked the video. Thanks for watching!
Sage advice sir. One of the most common errors I see is people who rush in and over-weather not just trains, but structures and other elements without looking at the real thing. It’s so easy today to just pull up Google images for examples of almost anything you plan to weather. I was guilty of over-weathering myself when I was a youngster, I later learned to study magazines and my own photography for inspiration
I have over-weathered some models, too, and it can be really hard to fix. It's really easy to get overly into it when weathering, and think it looks great, only to go back later and cringe. Sometimes I think it's good to weather in multiple sessions, just doing a little at a time, until you're happy with the model. And yes, photos are essential. Thanks for watching!
BJ & The Bear :) I just finished painting the trailer to go with it. Nice tips on the weathering
I remember watching that show as a kid. I'm glad you liked the video. Thanks for watching!
I'm just getting into the hobby, and have been seeking out weathering content like this! This was a perfect place to help me get started weathering my rolling stock
I'm glad you found the video helpful. Thanks for watching!
Wow that looks great. I have some freight cars I was going to sell but I think I'm going to practice these techniques on them first.
Using some cars you don't care about is a good way to practice weathering. You could probably still sell them afterward. Some people like to buy pre-weathered cars. Thanks for watching!
I have done the wheels before but didn't think about the inside of the wheel or the axle. It definitely makes it look real. I do the trucks too.
I don't usually do any more with the axles and insides of the wheels than I showed in this video. Those areas are often hard to see so just having them not be shiny metal adds a great deal of realism. Thanks for watching!
Thanks Dan, nice work
I'm glad you liked the video. Thanks for watching!
Hey Dan. I really appreciate you did that video for us. It's always interesting to see how other modelers are doing weathering jobs. I'd say from my experience that 80 to 90% of weathered models are awful and not even close to some realism. Like you, I'm using Tamiya flat clear. I switched many years ago avoiding Testors dullcoat because of inconsistency of the product. I'm usually not applying flat coat(s) to begin a model but I know that most of modelers do. The main reason is that I'm mostly weathering with acrylic paints. As Tamiya flat clear is alcohol base, I'm trying to avoid a chemical reaction between paint and flat clear. The thing I like the most in your video is that you're using weathering powders. I know I should be using them for a long time. I find them messy a bit... but I know I should ! Thanks for sharing.
I'm glad you liked the video. I use powders quite a bit. The self-adhesive ones don't need any additional coating (though I don't handle my models that much), and they are not shiny. I also find it's easy to control the application and put them where you want them. I can't detect any toxic smells either (though Nichole has told me that my nose isn't the greatest). Thanks for watching!
@@DanielCortopassi Hi again Dan. Many thanks for answering my mail. Would it be possible to know the colors and brand of powder you're using please ? I bought a BIG spray can of Vallejo flat clear. Finally never used it. I tried a few time and had NO control over the spray. There was too much at the time so I discarded it. But I bought another Vallejo spray can with a specific color in it. It comes with two different spray nozzle. It's a real charm to use it. But the color I choose was like useless so I had to discard it too. Tamiya is the real thing when it comes to primer and flat clear. Most of the colors I airbrush are Tamiya enamel and acrylic base. Works like a charm. Keep on your good work.
Always look forward to your videos. Thanks for sharing!
I'm glad you're enjoying the videos. Thanks for watching!
So testors dullcote is back in production and a new formula too. The come in a can with a triangle like flag on them and so far is far superior to the old formula. No more heating the can up to make sure it sprays even. So far I love it far better.
Also your spot on with keeping the motor tool low speed I broke several axle points off the old school Kadee wheels sets. They just heat up and snap.
I'll have to look for the new Dullcote. I still have a couple cans of the old stuff, but that won't last forever. Thanks for the info and for watching!
Thanks! Great videos
Thanks so much! I appreciate it a lot!
Excellent video. The wheels and trucks look awesome !!!!!! I still use dullcoate. Testor spray paints was bought by one of the larger sprayer company.
I'm glad you liked the video. Thanks for the info and for watching!
Amazing video! I want to get started with weathering so this is a great video for me!
I'm glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching!
I LOVED Testors Dullcote in the spray can. I'd buy a dozen cans of that right now if I could find them. Unfortunately I don't think it's being made anymore. Although I could be wrong. Testors got bought and a bunch of products were discontinued. Weathering is something that I have not tried my hand at but really need to. I've got a bunch of old cheap rolling stock that I could practice on without having to worry about wrecking my more expensive stuff.
It is still produced! The cans were updated but they had issues with splatter. The newest batches are just like the old formula. I buy mine from Hobby Lobby.
My advice would be to use photos as a reference and start slow. You can always add more, but depending on the product it can be hard to remove overdone weathering. My personal preference is for cars to be a little under-weathered than over-weathered. Someone else said that Dullcote is back in production, so you may not be out of luck. Thanks for watching!
It's good to know it's still in production. Thanks for the info and for watching!
You mention not using orange rust powder on wheels because it's too bright. It does have its place on the occasional car, though -- when a wheelset has been replaced, the new one is an orange-rust colour until it dirties up.
The bright orange has it's uses, as you mentioned. I was trying to suggest, and this is just based on my own taste, not to overdo it. Thanks for watching!
This may be off topic a little but I have a question about wheels. How do you determine what diameter wheel rolling stock will have if you want to replace them? I saw your video on wheel codes but I don’t recall any mention of the diameter.
Thanks Dan, great videos.
In H0 scale all the rolling stock wheels are pretty much the same size in diameter, there are only flange and tire width differences for people who care about that detail. You'd mostly only find diameter differences among some locomotives if they are small shunters for example, but those are specific scenarios.
@desertrailfan7118 So as as a very loose rule of thumb modern freight cars tend to have 36" wheels and older steam-era or transition era cars tend to have 33" wheels, but it's not universal. Sometimes it has to do with weight capacity, too. 100 ton cars tend to have 36" wheels, while some 70-ish ton boxcars have 33", even if they're newer. Auto racks sometimes have even smaller wheels. Some models have the wheel diameter stenciled on the end of the car. You might need a magnifying glass to see it, but that can also be helpful. Even though it's small, I can see a visible difference between 33 and 36 inch wheels, even in N scale, so I like to get it right. Thanks for watching!
Mr.Cortopassi I’m trying to do a dcc install in a Life Like N scale fa1 and I’m having trouble trying to figure out how to isolate and modify the frame to make it dcc friendly, I was wondering if you had any tips
I have never had a Life Like FA1 so I'm not sure how much I can help. If you don't already have some Kapton tape I'd recommend getting some of that. It's very thin (thinner than hardware store electrical tape) and is useful for separating the frame from any contacts on the motor. ESU, TCS, and others sell very small gauge (30 or 36) decoder wire that can be useful for adding connections to the motor. The wires are fine enough that sometimes you don't need to modify the mechanism to get them to fit, depending on the design of the model. If you have a multi-meter that can be useful to test for resistance to make sure that the frame and motor are really isolated. If it shows an open circuit then you've got it. I always test each motor lead against each half of the locomotive frame (if your engine has a split frame like a lot of N scale). Good luck with your install. Thanks for watching!