How To Flush My Water Heater (like a Pro)
Вставка
- Опубліковано 23 лис 2024
- Click Here To See the Bonus Video
quickwaterheate...
Flushing Your Water Heater is very important for your water heater.
In this video you will learn How To Flush Your Water Heater.
Visit us at quickwaterheater.com or call (619) 663 - 4328
Flushing Your Water Heater can be very easy or quite a difficult process. In some cases you can connect a garden hose and drain your water heater. In other cases this will have to remove a fitting from the water heater and siphon the water out. Lets get started. Step 1. Connect your garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the water heater. Step 2. Open the drain valve on the water heater. Here water rushing out? Check the end of the garden hose to see if water is pouring out. If the water is dribbling out it could take hours to drain. If the water is dribbling out then we need to go to step 3. If the water is rushing out then your drain valve is not clogged. Shut the valve off on top of your water heater and open a few hot water faucets inside your house. You may have to shut the water off to the whole house if your water heater valve is broken. Your water heater should completely drain in about 30 minutes. Step 3. Remove the TP valve. It’s the valve on the water heater that has a 1.5″ metal lift handle on it. See the picture of the TP valve displayed below. Note. In order to get the valve out of the water heater you will have to cut the copper pipe off. If you don’t see the copper pipe on your valve then proceed to unscrewing it. Step 4. Once you have the valve out feed a garden hose into the hole and begin a siphon. This will drain a tank much faster than if you try and wait for a clogged drain valve. Once the tank is drained you can remove the drain valve and clean it out.
quickwaterheate...
How To Flush Your Water Heater
• How To Flush My Water ...
Actutally, when two different type so metals are touching, corrosion isn't caused by electrolysis. It's galvanic corrosion. I've made the same mistake myself when talking about this. Thanks for posting this video. It's very helpful.
Great video. Will add this to my bag of tricks. I do almost all my home and car repairs. Learning is just a question of starting small, buying a few good tools, working up to the bigger projects (and knowing when you are in over your head).
I have not flushed my water heater for 15years now. It's still working. Thanks to you. Now I will flush the tank tomorrow.
My mom's hot water heater isn't distributing hot water to the house well at all. She has a home warranty so I called them to come out and they suggested doing this flush first (which I don't think has ever been done on this water heater). Your video is so clear and helpful. I'm going to see if a neighbor will help her do the flush. Thank you for taking the time to share your expertise in videos like these.
Home warranties are in the business of preserving capital. They will run you around before they do anything helpful. Note to all reading this. Buy the best package you can and you might get decent product and service when you need it. Sometimes if you have a few hours to invest, they will cash you out. But only if you press them extremely hard. In general they are the worst.
@@quickwaterheaterfiltration5292 Yea I got stories to tell you about the home warranty company. At the same time the home owners are often basicaly fraudulent often times as well, a very competetive buisness and a lot of bad players , Probebly some straight shooters but I havent heard about any.
Thanks for making this video. My factory faucet was clogged and would not drain. I hooked up a hose using a washing machine line and forced water in the water heater through the faucet to break up the clog. then it drained some sediment out. After replacing the faucet with a 3/4 ball valve ALOT of sediment came out. Thanks again!
Great vid. My dad showed me all these tricks back in the day.... but you are 100% correct - 99 percent of people will have no idea and let it ride. The clickbait other video is just that. BUT - for once in a lifetime: it is a video worth watching!!! I am not in your service area, not even in same country! But still subscribed to ya for the great ideas! Keep them videos going!
Thank you!
The blue translucent bits at the top of the sediment in the jars are aluminum hydroxide granules. Having them means you need to switch to a magnesium anode.
I installed a new water heater about ten years ago and had read on some plumbers forum to drain a couple of quarts of water once a month to keep the sediment from building up. I put a tee in the pipe from the pressure relief below the level of the drain valve and ran a section of hose from the drain valve to the tee. Once a month I go out to the garage and open the drain valve long enough to drain a couple of quarts to a gallon of water and then close the drain valve. I installed a new magnesium anode after 8 years but the old one still looked like it had a lot of life left in it.
I built my house myself in 1998, 40 gal electric water heater with a blanket, havent touched it. Had a well at first with iron in the water, switched to city service. Not a problem yet, I am amazed.
A "blanket" will VOID many manufacturer warranties, because of trapped condensation, etc.
Dear Mr. Baril, Thank you for teaching us about water heater maintenance.
You are welcome
Thank you very, very much, this is highly beneficial. Your bonus video is terrific and I'll be changing our anode rod immediately. Thanks!
Well, I came to learn how to flush my water heater and spent 20 minutes watching your other videos. Now I'm looking at apartments in San Diego. Thanks for making plumbing look so easy and hot! ;)
Were you able to retrieve your pliers that were teetering on falling down the flue at 3:02 ??!!
that's planed on the next service call of ...im getting a weird smell......
Chris Notap is
)
The top of the water heater is recessed. they would not fall into the heater itself
he ded - his heater asploded
Great video and suggestions, thanks. I could not find a threaded 3/4" full port ball valve with a Bibb end for a hose attachment at Home Depot, Lowes, or Amazon. Do you have a part number from any online site that you could share? Seems others are having the same problem. Perhaps I need to purchase a threaded nipple to attach to the heater, then attach the nipple to a standard full port valve, then find some sort of Bibb attachment??? Can't locate the one shown in this video.
Hiya. I tried this method on a new AO Smith water heater, 2017, electric, but no water came out. I called the plumber and he said, "this type of heater needs to be drained under pressure due to some swirling action in the design". So instead of closing the cold water feed and venting the hot water faucet in the house, I was advised to do just the opposite. Keep the hot water faucet closed and turn on the cold water, pressurizing it and pushing it out the bottom outlet. That worked like a champ. I only needed to flush it for 3 or 4 minutes to get all the obvious crud out.
Good info to know I just installed a new AO smith water heater!
Jeffrey Cranston !’9iu
Thats how i clean my customers water heater with cold water feed left cranked open and hot closed its stirs that krap up and i flush it for a good 10 min or till you don't see crud coming out of the heater . anymore
So for a do it yourself job you had to talk to a plumber? Already a hassle.
I once flushed my water heater in this same way. Went down the basement to find the damn thing was leaking. (water on the Floor). I am sure the sediment was acting as a sealant keeping the rust holes plugged.
those "interesting little crustacean rocks that are pretty cool" at 4:15 are actually by products of the aluminum anode rod. when aluminum anode rods degrade, they leave behind a "cottage cheese like" substance.
The blue translucent bits at the top of the sediment in the jars are aluminum hydroxide granules. Having them means you need to switch to a magnesium anode.
I initially noticed a larger amount of sediment when the water heater was newer and, assumingly, the sacrificial rod went through it's depletion. Then the sediment amount dropped off. I replaced the rod (with probably, and deliberately, a different type) and the sediment has never been as much. I should re-evaluate what is going on here.
I use the magnesium anode and the same little rock pcs come from the magnesium as well
@@blessedinpark .... it's not all magnesium, it's also minerals in the water that deposit out of suspension from the heater tube as well. Well water or city water will do this.
Sir you give a perfect instruction on flushing 👌😁 there was not a bunch of this and that bs and you was not a monotone talker. EXCELLANT INFO. !!!!!!!
While watching this even if I did exactly what he said to do I'd probably screw it up somewhere
To save everyone some time the “bonus video” only applies to gas hot water heaters.
If you have a gas hot water heater, it’s change the anodizing rod.
Your welcome!
It's a water heater, not a "hot water heater."
@@garymccray6701 😂 sorry granger police but where I come from it’s a hot water heater. Though I do see the irony.
Why does it apply only to gas heaters? Electric ones don't have an anode rod inside?
You da real mvp
Thanks for explaining how to flush out the sediment at the bottom of tank. How people complain that you talk to fast makes me think they're just pay attention too slow. Plus they don't realize that they can play it back as many times as they need to.
I live in La Ca., I did once flush my 75 gal water heater with new ball valve, I didn't get much sediment, a waste of time. My water heater lasted 20 years. The secret is keep your water psi to 50 and the water temp to 120 deg F, it will last for 20 years.
Coming across this after googling why my water heater was making a clanking noises. 😳😬 I haven't ever flushed mine in the 12 years that I've been here. Seriously had no clue about this... I'm guessing the water/ sediment will look worse with hard water too? Is that accurate?! Appreciate this video. Will watch your next link too. Thank you for sharing this information!
I've been impressed by how slowly water drains through the valve that comes with most heaters, even with faucets open. Good idea to replace it with bigger valve, more flow will get more sediment out, too. I'm told that some professionals use compressed air to push the water through more quickly.
This is one of the better videos. Surprised there aren't many views or comments.
Thank you sir. It's a pain in the butt to get these video to look decent and still make sense. I appreciate the complement. If you want to prevent replacing your water heater all you need to do is replace your anode rod (leak preventer) inside the unit. It's the only thing that prevents the heaters from leaking. Here's the step by step. quickwaterheater.com/how-to-change-your-anode-rod/
I bought a tank 5 years ago and meant to flush it and never did. I used the useless drain valve that came with it and hardly anything came out. Finally got the water out and unhooked the tank and took it outside. Took out the elements and bottom one was almost gone. used a garden hose through the element holes and got a ton of crap, turns out it was all of my anode rod in chunks. I have sulphur water which is hard. Put in new double style elements and new upper and lower thermostats and new anode rod. Put on the biggest ball valve for a drain. I will make sure to drain it every year.
Has the link changed for the bonus video? All I got was an ad for your company...no video
:(
Thank you for your videos .
I think they are very informative and you break it down in a way that even I can understand.
Can you explain in one of your videos how you put the copper stub outs in the 2×4 syou move the camera too fast and I can't see exactly how you make that happen ..😊
One more tip to this flush, is I hooked up a smaller OD tube (insert into 3/4 ball valve ), and to a wet/dry vac intake hose. Tape tube to create tight fit. Insert tube through the brass 3/4 female inline ball valve, and feed into the tank. Place a pan to catch water from valve, turn on vacuum, move tube in/out-back/forth, to suck and pick up loose debris. Turn on water supply, and repeat. Empty vac and repeat the flush/vac procedure. The interior or the heater tank is an inverted V shape and the drain valve sits above, not allowing all the water/debris to drain out.
I'm interested in doing this, is there a youtube video to show this?
Thank you so much for this video. I was able to correctly flush my water heater.
Glad it helped
Very well done and super informative! Thank you for your expertise Brandon.
Great info and thanks. Our AO ProMax PowerVent GPVH-50 now 11 years old is releasing some discolored water from our facets. I have not done a power flush but have drained it every year but after seeing this video I was wondering if I should just change out the drain valve and do a power flush? I am not sure how long an AO hot water tank should last and we did have incoming water issues due to sediment which is not corrected with a whole house water filter. Is it recommended to deep clean or just replace at this point in time? Thanks again.
Thanks for the info. I watched the video on your website. I had no idea that water heater contained an anode rod or what an anode rod was. Going to do this soon.
billybassman21 his website says it’s nearly impossible once the heater is installed so how you replace them every 3-5 yrs? Completely remove the heater and reinstall? Doesn’t sound impossible. Is that just an attempt at selling more service?
Thank you for your kindness. This is very thorough.
I just watched your BONUS VIDEO and found it very informative.......can you tell me what product you use to dope the threads of the new anode ?
It's just called pipe dope. Literally. Any hardware store will have it.
Love the bloopers at the end! We're all human and stuff happens
Appreciate it!
dude, your video is much appreciated here in Oklahoma.
Joseph Krautheim it’s my pleasure.
Procrastination level: this video
This was really helpful and the bonus video is fantastic. Thanks!
Instead of a garden hose, I used a female end hose repair kit and 3/4 inch clear tubing. You can then more clearly see what's coming out of the tank and the cost was less than $10.
Hey Brandon, thanks for this helpful video. Can you please post again the link mentioned at the end of the video?
The link is available in the video description. Just click the drop down triangle symbol to see the description and link.
Hi, great video and I watched the bonus, thanks. Question: you didn't mention anything about hard water buildup inside the tank and how to remove it. Any suggestions?
That would go along with everything he just showed you how to do in this video
When you changed to the full port valve and installed it on the water heater did you use teflon tape or any other product on the threads?
I think it's important to tell people that you don't want to do this with an older hot water heater. I've actually caused leaks by doing this to an older unit. Of course you can do whatever you want, it's your unit. But this should be done once every 1-2 years.
Very Informative and thanks so much for the tips. Vary rarely are the secrets shared. Appreciate it !!
Thanks for the very helpful instructions! A question. Whar do you drain the water into? I assumed it was the floor drain but with all that sediment, I'm not sure. And you collected it.
Around 1:50, hard for me to hear, but I think he said “garden valve” and the “full-port valve” - just in-case anyone else who has old ears like me was wondering😂
omfg thank you for this comment. im seriously losing my mind.
1959 hot water tank in a relatives house and still working. Still have the owners manual. Everything new today is meant to break.
Most of the world stopped using inefficient HWT long ago, Have fun trying to go back to living in 1959...
N C you're such a dork.
Dork??? Nice to see that a troglodyte knows that word.
Just post the inside of that 1959 HWT. We all need a good laugh.
Grumpy old people r so funny :)
Not even close cretin.lol
Would have been nice to provide a bit more details on full port valves. Maybe a link or two to examples on Home Depot website that are appropriate size, or whatever?
I see now that your page you linked has this info.
I always use the overpressurization valve to release the air pressure. This is a good step since it allows you to test that valve and that it's functioning properly. You can usually call the manufacture of your tank and tell them you need a new valve and they will send you a new one if there were issues with the one you have. Mine turned out to have a small leak a little bit in the closed position so I replaced it. I did that with my GE water heater and they sent me a brand-new valve for free. Great video. What is that alternate piping at the very bottom with the other spigot?
+condor5635 I still do not recommend messing with the Temperature and pressure release valve. Although I do have a video on how to replace it. It's more difficult than replacing a thermal couple. The piping at the bottom is for a recirculating pump. This gives you instant hot water without waiting.
Not sure why you had issues installing a new one I did it in five minutes - I think it was a very easy job. And to say don't mess with it is counter to what the manufacturers actually tell you what to do. They explicitly say you should test and ensure that the valve's doing it's job. If you never test it then when it needs to work it may not work. Plus like I said most manufacturers will send you a new one due to legal liabilities if you just call them and tell them that yours is not working (GE did). Great video - I replaced my valve with a ball valve years ago and it works real well like you demonstrate. Thanks!
Most likely a 3/4 full port valve. $14 at Home Depot in the water heater or metal piping aisles. You will also need water heater nipples and the cap
Could you make or link a video explaining the recirculating pump? I'm interested. Thank you for the great video.
@@condor5635 Because thats his professional opinion , same with mine . just a general opinion due to they often fail and then you get some whining home owner that dosent want to pay to fix it says you shouldnt have messed with it. And Do you think Ill come back out after manufacture sends you a Freee valve ?
I installed the larger valve and you were right, tons of sediment that was trapped came spilling out
All it needed was the larger exit to be released.
It's just like flushing my car radiator , thanks for the video I had no idea my boiler needed maintenance no wonder it's making some cracking noise.
Nice video, Hey, you better watch out for your plyers on top of the water heater their about to go down the vent!!
I went to check my anode and the pressure relief valve is installed in the location where the anode rod is supposed to be. I haven’t removed it but I found it odd there is a plug on the side for the relief valve. Is it normal to install the relief valve where the anode is supposed to be? I’m guessing the anode may be under it but I don’t know. I’m thinking about relocating the relief valve on the side of the tank where it’s supposed to be.
Super helpful video. I'm doing it now. question though. Is the size of the valve and threads standard for residential water heaters? what's the size?
3/4” NPT
Im a plumber and in my 15yrs the oldest water heater i replaced was 30 yrs old
Very well done. If I own several apartment buildings and am willing to pay for this “service”. What would be the going rate from a water heater specialist?
Brandon, Great video. I have a Bradford and white Combi core water heater. This unit has been in service for about 8 years. It has never been flushed out or drained. I would like to inspect/replace the anode rod. I've read that when a unit hasn't been regularly flushed or drained it could be problematic and lead to leaks due to the disruption of sediment on the bottom that may actually be plugging small perforation. Is this true? In order to replace the anode I need to drain some water out of the tank. Do I just risk it and drain some of the water? or is there some other option you might suggest?
What did you end up doing, I fear that i may be in a similar situation.
No water or sediment needs to be removed to get the anode. However: if you wait too long the threads rust.
I've just moved into a house that has a water heater made in 2008. Given other things around the house, my bet is they've never done any maintenance or replaced anode rods. Is it a goner? Or can I save it by replacing the anode rod now? I have done a regular flush with existing valve, but can replace valve as well.
yes he is right. don't pop the relief valve! mine started leaking after I opened it I had to replace it.
update: replaced the water heater with a new one. it was old and started making noise and leaking around pressure valve too.
yup they will leak I second that....
You should add a box store link and part number for the full port valve you mention at 1:43.
+GHCH2727 I'll do that soon.
Most likely a 3/4 full port valve. $14 at Home Depot in the water heater or metal piping aisles. You will also need water heater nipples and the cap
I am on an ipadwhich won't allow me to click the bonus link could you please post this here?
Thanks for the demonstration on the info, and for the quick reply
Chas
the bonus video is a scam. He took it down as well.
... thanks Chris ....THE BONUS IS REAL!!!
...MY bonus is I got to test out the pairing of my $29 Harmony Smart Keyboard via my Harmony hub...toooooooo....wait for it....MY IPAD!!!.....totally validating my investment...I am typing on my Ipad now via my Harmony hub/Harmony Smart Keyboard....Fuck HIS bonus...I just got mine as I configured and tested to respond to your recent UA-cam message here....biggggg shit eating grinnnnnnn
So thanks for your input...visit my channel if you like Aviation, shit that goes bang,weird kludges, repairs and doesnt take itself too seriously.
Chas
what? am on an iPad - link works fine - talks about replacing the anode rod.
I have not changed my anode rod for 9 years. There must be some heavy buildup. Do you suggest to put vinegar in for a couple of hours to dissolve all buildups?
Could you possibly use a clear drain hose from the discharge line so we could see the sediment coming out thanks for the video
Where do you purchase clear hoses that come with the couplings?
Thank you for the lesson. Well done.
I have a residential Bradford White and the drain valve appears to be different. In your video you used two wrenches. On mine it appears the brass valve screws directly into the tank. Also, the valve is extremely tight. With the tank empty, even though it is strapped to the wall, the tank moves before the valve loosens. I gave up for now , but will try to loosen the valve with the tank full. Hopefully the weight of the 50 gallons of water will be enough to keep the tank in place. Does this sound normal? Any tips on getting the Bradford White drain valve out will be much appreciated.
Thank you for sharing. How do you add chlorine to the water tank if you want to decontaminate the pipes and the tank? I have an AO Smith 80-gallon electric hybrid water heater.
How can I tell when the water heater is full of water?
Awesome video. Thanks so much.
When your hot water faucets start working again. Let them run a couple of minuted to purge all of the air out of the lines.
Hi Brandon,
You are great doing the tutoring about how water heaters work!
I have a Rheem gas water heater ,installed in 2006, would turn off after a couple hours of working and repeat the same symptom repeatedly? Can you help me out on this. Not sure if is the thermocouple, should the tank be drained or could it be a gas control unit (thermostat)?
Thanks,
+Huey Tang 2 options. Change your burner assembly and thermostat. OR replace the tank entirely. I'd go with option two unless you've been doing what I talk about in the bonus video.
Question here please. My 50 gallon tank has 8 year warranty, I'm on the 9th year. I've never drained it until now. I agitated the bottom many times and finally got the tank to run clear. Problem is inside hot water is still off colour. I live in Vancouver, BC for location. Every plumber says I need a new tank. Is there more I can do?
Where do I flush the water to when draining? I have no direct access to outdoors and have no drain in the basement. Will the pressure be enough to run a hose up the basement stairs and then outside? I’m guessing it’s a ten feet incline. I didn’t see any mention of this in the video. Thanks.
I bought the valve and was ready to do it but my neighbors water heater the small garden hose type hose bib is tucked into the water heater and just the end it sticking out. Is there a way to turn that valve to remove without holding the other piece that you did with a pipe wrench? Also opening up hot water taps in the house didn't help it drain. I need to flip the pressure valve inside the house but I don't know the condition of the drain line. Would taking off the hot water supply line be ok once a little water has been drain by opening the taps?
Where are you draining the water that is coming out with all that sediment? If you don't have a basement with a sump pump (is that ok to put in that too?) then do you go to a sink or bath tub?
Usually plumbers don't share info like this so they can take your money.. nice video.
Hi there, question on cleaning WH: What if it’s an OLD one and you don’t know the last time it was flushed? Would doing this potentially cause an issue? Reason I ask is it seems when you turn off an old WH for whatever reason, they many times don’t want to relight. Many thanks! Great video like always
steve b doesn’t really answer my question though. When turning OFF a W.H that’s older, many times it doesn’t relight. When having a termite tenting of a home, all gas appliances are off 3 days or so. Upon relighting of appliances, many times the WH is dead and needs replacement or parts thrown at it
Good tips, and loved the bonus video. Thanks.
can not find the bonus video
Nicely done video. I do have a question regarding the anode. When I went to replace mine which was 33" long, I could not find a comparable one. I was able to find one that was 42".
Is it okay to cut this one to 33"? It is magnesium and shouldn't be a problem to cut. Thanks
Sorry for the late reply but yes, you can cut them down to size.
I have a 40 gal. gas water heater(residential), and I was wondering how long the anode rod is. Also, will the bolt head be 1 1/16"?
When I loosen the bolt, will the anode rod fall into the water heater?
Awesome video. Thanks a lot.
+Neil Williams anode rods are generally all similar sizes. If by chance it is too long you cut cut it down to fit. All the hex head style anodes are all 1 1/16 size. The anode may fall apart inside your tank. If it does it isn't the end of your tank. It may amour around and make noise while heating but that is what it is.
Thank you so much for your reply and video.
Are you allowed to cut the anode rod to fit and, how will I know how much to cut off or, will the new one be the right length?
Thanks again.
Actually, you don't have to do any cutting to your anode rod as suggested by other people. All plumbing supply stores (not big box stores) whether online or your local plumbing store, should have a way to cross-reference your tank's model number with the correct anode rod size.
Damn, my small water heater has been installed for 10yrs plus. I rent but I like to do my own maintenance. Also I'm on a water well system & my toilet tank has a bunch of sand in it. So I can only imagine how much sand has collected inside the water heater. I'm in a manufactured home. So the small water heater is in my closet. I have 2 showers/ 2 Bathrooms. One on each end of the home but I've never had an issue with hot water.
Awesome video, thank you very much!
This dude is legit
Thanks for your video. Great job. Is the replacement full port value 3/4 inch?
So what is the bonus. I watched your water heater flush video, found a blue colored link but just went to a bunch of optional videos. Saw the one listed as tankless water heaters. Is this the quote bonus on saving thousands and making your water heater last forever? By the way, a couple master plumbers tell me NOT to flush a water heater. I have dark colored sediment in my tub whenever I turn the hot water on high. It does not come out of the sink on high or the shower head. Only the tub spigot. How then do I correct this if I am not supposed to flush it?
The link doesn't go to a specific video
Outstanding video but after watching how you work and your knowledge, I would still hire you. Too bad you're not in So. OC.
If water heaters had inspection plates with bolts and gaskets manufactured on the tank you could clean them out more efficiently. besides it would include the edge ceramic seal added. the gasket would not be a problem to assure an air/water seal. (US NAVY ENGINEER).
So do you keep that bigger valve on or take it back off?
Jose he is busy draining many more water heaters he will get back to answering your question in few weeks or months just be patient👍
Thanks for the video. Do have a question. I am unable to turn the cold off on top of tank. I am concerned that I may break it I apply too much pressure. Any suggestions? Your video is very informative.
Johnny Gonzalez just turn off the water from the water meter instead of the hot water heater.
good job plugging your hot water circulating line coming in the tee behind your drain valve
+jon ranieri this is not our installation. This is just a demonstration. But thanks for noticing.
That’s all he got, come to where I live in Kentucky, I’ve seen hot water heaters 1/2 full of calcium with just a small path open in it. They burn the bottom elements regularly and only have hot water for a few minutes
Very good information, Thank you. Question: my gas water heater which is just 4 yrs old leaking at the bottom, what could be the cost?
It may just be condensation!!!!!!!
Thanks! But it' s a leak as I get around 5 liters a day. Homedepo replaced it for free. :-)
I found the best way to remove sediment is to drain off a few gallons of water from the tank and remove the anode rod with 1 1/16th socket and impact wrench. Don't forget to turn off the cold water inlet and set the burner to vacation or pilot. Bend a piece of 3/8 electrical conduit so that it clears the ceiling and reaches the bottom of the tank. Apply tape to the end of the conduit so that it fits snugly to a shop vac hose. Vacuum the bottom of the tank while watching the water level in the shop vac. Drain out excess water in the vac and repeat vacuuming 2 to 3 times. You should have 2 to 3 inches of sediment in the bottom of your vacuum, depending on how old your water heater is. This removes a lot more than just the few inches of sediment in a glass jar. More work but worth it in the long run.
Cool! Thanks for the vid. I’m calling the heating/air dude to do this
What? Lol
Thank you that’s really good explanation
Glad it was helpful!
So what does a person do if the inlet feed and the drain are one? I can't simply force water in the top to splash around and move the sediment to the drain. I have to fill and shut off the water and drain it naturally. Tried 6 or 7 times. Still have sediment coming through the pipes.
@J Hemphill I actually found a water manifold and replaced it. Problem solved.
Thanks water heater Joey Votto !!
Thank you for making this video!
My pleasure!
Very nice video. Simple and informative! If I wanted to check my anode rod to see how much material is remaining, do I need to apply more thread sealant? Or can I just reinstall the old rod with the sealant that remains on the threads? I have an AO Smith 50 gal water heater that came new with the house in 2011.
Anytime you mess with threads your going to want to use new thread tape/dope.
Should check the relief valve yearly and make sure it works
First blow out the P.&T. valve [that should be running down hill, not standing water on the spring inside] tap on it to reseal, [or replace] Then blow the tank, then open the t & p valve, IF you want to drain, but you don't have to drain to change the drain valve, the tank can't drain till air comes in!